Paul,You never cease to amaze me. Your high level quality of tooling and bag of tricks up your sleeve is really inspiring.I have a 69 350 ss Aermacchi barn find waiting for an overhaul.Found the right channel for my resto.Keep up the great work.Regards!
Oh man, that little trick with the top shock mounts was absolute sorcery. I put that right into the toolbox!. Im a huge fan of the WM gear (saw your gloves) as well. I think you would benefit huge from the TIG button if your machine would support it, that silly little thing changed my life about 1.84 gazillion percent.
Paul, Mitch - as always, thank you! On the chassis which I'm building, I'm faced with a similar situation. The new chassis will be a little taller in the rear than the stock bike, and I have a pair of nearly new WP shocks which I'd like to use, but they will be vastly too stiff and ~1.25" too short for the new bike. One solution would be to move the shock mounts on the ZRX1100 swingarm, and another would be to remove the lower part of the shock and machine up a new one that is longer.
Works Performance shocks have always intrigued me. Compared to a modern motocross shock the valving is quite simple. Using a single valve with spring loaded balls with various sized holes through the valve for compression and rebound makes tuning them easy compared to shim stacks. My only qualm with them is no clicker adjusters. I have a set on my 1975 CR250 and my TTR110 pitbike and they work great for that. Good to see them still alive and well after all this time. They look great on the Aermacchi Paul. You showed some great tricks in this video! Take care
The pivot point measurement, does that account for the sag? Was not mentioned in the video if that needs to be taken into the account when deciding on ride height. Thanks for another inspirational video. Keep it up!
We have 3 pivot point measurements. Which one are you referring to? I make my drawing with no sag, but also take into account the sag that I know I am looking for.
@@paulbrodie I understand that. Just thought you could maybe use a long bolt and piece of pipe for a scacer instead of making adaptors and having to cut out the spacer.
@@TheOldaz1 It's an odd size of a counterbored hole, so this was the easiest way for me. I have lots of metal offcuts, so I didn't have to go out and buy a special piece..
Always lovee seeing your problem solving and jigs etc you come up with. Have to say, thought maybe you'd have made that part to hold the mounts to the top part so they had a threaded insert like a lateral swing arm adjuster on a tractor and then you just wind it back in once you're done setting the shock mounts and have it to reuse again and again, and be able to do different lengths.
Last time I did that job was 20 years ago. I have a lot of fixtures in my shop from years ago and I can't remember what I used them for! Thanks for your comments.
All of the lengths and angles were used when I ordered from Worx Shox. Sag happens when I sit on the bike. The bike is too light to sag under its' own weight..
Looks like your shocks will fit correctly if they were flipped end for end and mounted like you had them on your stolen bike. All my bikes have the height adjustment cam on the bottom. Great idea for mounting your shock mounts,
Now you're comparing Koni shocks with Worx Shocks. Likely 2 different designs. Yes, the Worx Shocks will fit better upside down, but they will get modified with a lighter spring, and then fit the proper way.
Having the shock mounts on the top of the swinging arm, would have made fitting shocks with what look like springs intended for car coil overs, much easier, and the mounts would have been a lot stronger. Serious classic racers here in the UK very often use shocks made by Maxton Engineering, who also make cartridge forks for older bikes.
I'm a big fan of Worx Shocks. I've used them for a couple of decades. Yes, there are different ways to mount a shock, but I am building a replica of my stolen race bike. It will all work out fine!
The lighter spring with fewer coils "can" be made to be the same rate. But. The stresses itll see will shorten its fatigue life. Which. Is fine for a race bike that'll only be used a short time... if it's a street bike that will be used for many years? The heavier lower stress spring is probably a better idea
I'm going for the light weight. I found my notes from 2001 and that "stolen" spring only weighed 256 grams and helped me to win a lot of 500 Vintage races.
I believe if the shock valving is suitable for shaft pointing down it will still work shaft pointing up, but if made for shaft up, it won't work inverted.
Over the years, when I’ve sat scratching my head trying to figure out how to achieve a particular thing, and eventually come up with a solution, I’ve often wondered if anyone else does it the same way. I guess we all need some form of confirmation we’re on the right track, and maybe not being silly. Then I see Paul Brodie do it the same way, and know for sure I got it right. The only question that remains unresolved is how much clearance will be lost when I sit my fat a$$ on the bike and the rear suspension is compressed on settings 1-? How to substitute the rider…? Great vid. Two per week is an excellent idea.
Excellent work. Is there a weight target you are trying stay within? Cant wait to see you out on the track with it, dragging a knee. lol. Back when I was a teenager there was none of the knee dragging you see today.
The weight target is 220 lbs. I won't be on the track, sorry. One badly broken leg is enough for me, and in 2 months I"ll be 67. Little old for dragging my knee. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Very nice fabrication skills, I really like your videos. However when you put on the shocks a the end, didn`t you put them upside down? Then they won`t be hitting the swing arm I suppose.
Thank you Vojtino. I installed the shocks the proper way, and they do hit the swingarm, but those components will get modified and then everything will be fine.
It's coming together so fast now, it's almost hard to remember what it looked like as just a pile of stock and tubes..... IDK if I'd be super happy riding it or terrified of breaking something. LoL I'm learning a lot of cool things like holding stuff in place so it's level when welding.... Now I just need something to work on, and a welder. LoL
@@paulbrodie - I have an ongoing project right now but what I don't have is the tools or stock to make what I need.... And partly the faith that I'm going to be able to accomplish what I want to do. 😁
@@xpndblhero5170 We all have our challenges. I do all my own projects despite being pretty much talentless. But my bikes get lots of mileage. Some people are real strong in one area but clueless in others. Like you'd never think a 150IQ fabricator would not wear ear protection when grinding.
Please be aware that race tyre manufacturers never stand still. This might me a classic tyre for racing, but the demands in the community are cut throat even at his level of performance. Expect them to work with more forward weight balance, better carcass, Expect the profiles to be more triangular and do not be surprised if they need a harder rear spring to utilise the current compounds.
@@Metal-Possum My first Aermacchi race bike weighed about 245 lbs, which is not bad. Then I built the second one and focussed on saving a few grams here and there. I figured weight would be in the 130's, and got a shock when it finally weighed in at 221 lbs.
I love the care and planning you put into each stage. Its fascinating to watch.
Thank you very much 🙂
Brodie making it look easy!! as always good work, and personally Im diggin the multiple videos per week.
Thanks Rick. Yes, there was a bit of resistance to the change, but two is better than one!
@@paulbrodie good evening to the both of you Paul and Micth
I can't do what you do but I can do what I do. Because of what you do has made what I do better....thanks, I've learned a lot
We all have our levels of expertise, and we can all learn to do things a little better. Thanks for watching and commenting.
11:28 Im so glad he has this on a shirt now
Back to the Aermacchi, god that was a great episode, I'm blown away by your problem solving skills and artistry. Thanks Paul and Mitch.
Thank you thebones.
Thanks Paul. The details are always fascinating.😀
Thanks Pete.
Paul,You never cease to amaze me. Your high level quality of tooling and bag of tricks up your sleeve is really inspiring.I have a 69 350 ss Aermacchi barn find waiting for an overhaul.Found the right channel for my resto.Keep up the great work.Regards!
Thank you Throttle Davidson.
Spent Covid quarantine binj watching your channel .Thanks for an educating and entertaining content
Thank you James. We appreciate it!
Mitch, Paul: nice new format, nice new pacing :) thank you!
Thanks Nicolas.
Oh man, that little trick with the top shock mounts was absolute sorcery. I put that right into the toolbox!. Im a huge fan of the WM gear (saw your gloves) as well. I think you would benefit huge from the TIG button if your machine would support it, that silly little thing changed my life about 1.84 gazillion percent.
Looking good Paul-nicely done ✅👍
All the work that went into the jig to hold the shocks awesome brother thought went into the engineering
Yes I am a #fussyframebuilder.
Paul, Mitch - as always, thank you!
On the chassis which I'm building, I'm faced with a similar situation. The new chassis will be a little taller in the rear than the stock bike, and I have a pair of nearly new WP shocks which I'd like to use, but they will be vastly too stiff and ~1.25" too short for the new bike. One solution would be to move the shock mounts on the ZRX1100 swingarm, and another would be to remove the lower part of the shock and machine up a new one that is longer.
Thanks Alan, yes, you will have to figure out which solution will work the best for you...
Just perfect, mate.
Cheers Paul and Mitch.
Cheers ShotgunAU.
Beautiful quality work Paul.
Thank you Ian.
Works Performance shocks have always intrigued me. Compared to a modern motocross shock the valving is quite simple. Using a single valve with spring loaded balls with various sized holes through the valve for compression and rebound makes tuning them easy compared to shim stacks. My only qualm with them is no clicker adjusters. I have a set on my 1975 CR250 and my TTR110 pitbike and they work great for that. Good to see them still alive and well after all this time. They look great on the Aermacchi Paul. You showed some great tricks in this video! Take care
Thanks Po. I have had good luck with Worx Shocks, and I like to support them.
Liking the new shorter format as well.
Thanks Alex.
👍👍
Multiple videos and superb episode as usual 👍👌Cheers Chris
Thanks Chris.
The pivot point measurement, does that account for the sag? Was not mentioned in the video if that needs to be taken into the account when deciding on ride height.
Thanks for another inspirational video. Keep it up!
We have 3 pivot point measurements. Which one are you referring to? I make my drawing with no sag, but also take into account the sag that I know I am looking for.
Brilliant absolutely brilliant
Thank you David.
Thank you again for posting a satisfying vid!
Nice job with the mounts. I wonder why you couldn't just use a bolt and spacer through the top mounts for position?? Thanks guys.
Thanks. It's hard to visualize exactly what you mean. I'm just copying my race bike that got stolen.
@@paulbrodie I understand that. Just thought you could maybe use a long bolt and piece of pipe for a scacer instead of making adaptors and having to cut out the spacer.
@@TheOldaz1 It's an odd size of a counterbored hole, so this was the easiest way for me. I have lots of metal offcuts, so I didn't have to go out and buy a special piece..
Paul Brodie, tik-toking before it was cool.. erh I mean tig-tacking. :P
suspension lesson todaaayyyy!
Yes! Thanks for watching..
Yes!!
Great work!
Another Idea for a nice Shirt
The Eyecrometer
Always lovee seeing your problem solving and jigs etc you come up with. Have to say, thought maybe you'd have made that part to hold the mounts to the top part so they had a threaded insert like a lateral swing arm adjuster on a tractor and then you just wind it back in once you're done setting the shock mounts and have it to reuse again and again, and be able to do different lengths.
Last time I did that job was 20 years ago. I have a lot of fixtures in my shop from years ago and I can't remember what I used them for! Thanks for your comments.
Shouldn't you have pre loaded the shock to get the correct ride height? What about swinging arm angle, or is that getting too complicated?
All of the lengths and angles were used when I ordered from Worx Shox. Sag happens when I sit on the bike. The bike is too light to sag under its' own weight..
Looks like your shocks will fit correctly if they were flipped end for end and mounted like you had them on your stolen bike. All my bikes have the height adjustment cam on the bottom. Great idea for mounting your shock mounts,
Now you're comparing Koni shocks with Worx Shocks. Likely 2 different designs. Yes, the Worx Shocks will fit better upside down, but they will get modified with a lighter spring, and then fit the proper way.
Having the shock mounts on the top of the swinging arm, would have made fitting shocks with what look like springs intended for car coil overs, much easier, and the mounts would have been a lot stronger.
Serious classic racers here in the UK very often use shocks made by Maxton Engineering, who also make cartridge forks for older bikes.
I'm a big fan of Worx Shocks. I've used them for a couple of decades. Yes, there are different ways to mount a shock, but I am building a replica of my stolen race bike. It will all work out fine!
The lighter spring with fewer coils "can" be made to be the same rate. But. The stresses itll see will shorten its fatigue life. Which. Is fine for a race bike that'll only be used a short time... if it's a street bike that will be used for many years? The heavier lower stress spring is probably a better idea
I'm going for the light weight. I found my notes from 2001 and that "stolen" spring only weighed 256 grams and helped me to win a lot of 500 Vintage races.
evening one and all. Your such a tease with that motor though.
What motor?
@@paulbrodie the one under the cover at the end ...
@@tomthompson7400 Ah! that motor...
@@paulbrodie Not the old ,,, ah that motor ,,, gambit ... yep that motor ..
@@tomthompson7400 Maybe we'll take a look at it, I don't know...
I believe if the shock valving is suitable for shaft pointing down it will still work shaft pointing up, but if made for shaft up, it won't work inverted.
For most coil-over shocks, this is true.
@@Alanbataar for most any monotube shocks in my experience. Bilsteins, for example don't care.
do you not get splatter from tig welding? I'm thinking of that beautiful paint job a few inches away
Over the years, when I’ve sat scratching my head trying to figure out how to achieve a particular thing, and eventually come up with a solution, I’ve often wondered if anyone else does it the same way. I guess we all need some form of confirmation we’re on the right track, and maybe not being silly.
Then I see Paul Brodie do it the same way, and know for sure I got it right.
The only question that remains unresolved is how much clearance will be lost when I sit my fat a$$ on the bike and the rear suspension is compressed on settings 1-?
How to substitute the rider…?
Great vid. Two per week is an excellent idea.
Thanks G58. Yes, a couple a week seems to be working.
Excellent work. Is there a weight target you are trying stay within? Cant wait to see you out on the track with it, dragging a knee. lol. Back when I was a teenager there was none of the knee dragging you see today.
The weight target is 220 lbs. I won't be on the track, sorry. One badly broken leg is enough for me, and in 2 months I"ll be 67. Little old for dragging my knee. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@paulbrodie Same age as me.
Nice!!!
😬 moving the lower shock mount fore aft will change the wheel rate/ effective spring rate of the system....potentially alot
Yes, small changes can have a big effect. You are correct!
Very nice fabrication skills, I really like your videos. However when you put on the shocks a the end, didn`t you put them upside down? Then they won`t be hitting the swing arm I suppose.
Thank you Vojtino. I installed the shocks the proper way, and they do hit the swingarm, but those components will get modified and then everything will be fine.
I imagine you’ll need a shorter spring after machining up a new bottom spring seat?
I am currently sourcing a shorter, much lighter spring to save weight.
I've been building hardtails all my life but I think I'll give softails a try.
Parts of your body might appreciate it.
Sickkk
Exactly.
Need to make "tig-tacked" merch
Hey Paul, what colour type grey was the Aermacchi frame painted with 👍
👍👍😎👍👍
It's coming together so fast now, it's almost hard to remember what it looked like as just a pile of stock and tubes..... IDK if I'd be super happy riding it or terrified of breaking something. LoL I'm learning a lot of cool things like holding stuff in place so it's level when welding.... Now I just need something to work on, and a welder. LoL
Sounds like you need a project!
@@paulbrodie - I have an ongoing project right now but what I don't have is the tools or stock to make what I need.... And partly the faith that I'm going to be able to accomplish what I want to do. 😁
@@xpndblhero5170 We all have our challenges. I do all my own projects despite being pretty much talentless. But my bikes get lots of mileage. Some people are real strong in one area but clueless in others. Like you'd never think a 150IQ fabricator would not wear ear protection when grinding.
Squealing finger file,
Butt-of-the-hand hammer.
Triumph as a sliver of shock mount chisels off
And the asthmatic wheeze of the TiG priming.
Good choice of words!
Aren't the shocks supposed to be compressed some amount at ride height?
I think you are talking about sag. Yes, when I sit on the bike there will be some sag.
@@paulbrodie I don't have to sit on anything to have sag, It's built in to me!
Maybe I missed it but it didn't seem like you took that into consideration. Very nice build!
Paul s changing the motion ratio by shorting the lever arm
Still waiting to see all those sharks you are talking about??? #justkidding
Please be aware that race tyre manufacturers never stand still. This might me a classic tyre for racing, but the demands in the community are cut throat even at his level of performance. Expect them to work with more forward weight balance, better carcass, Expect the profiles to be more triangular and do not be surprised if they need a harder rear spring to utilise the current compounds.
I'm just building a race bike to replace the one that got stolen. I'm not planning on racing!
There's me wondering two things:
(1) what are the grooves for?
(2) how to remove the jig?
If I'd answered one, then I'd have answered the other, doh!
Hertog, I like your comment!
Paul, in a sea of great content, that's my favourite moment to date.
are they definitely upside down shocks
I'm just following instructions and mounting them like Worx advised me to do.
Do you allow for static sag?
The bike only weighs 220 lbs so it will not sag under its' own weight.
Like #359 here. It looks like somebody must have clicked dislike by mistake.
ces amortisseurs ressemblent à la marque HAGON... ???
First again!
Absolutely amazing. How do you do it?
@@paulbrodie its pure luck, i was on UA-cam when you post your video. Do i win something? Lol!
21st
@@bertrandlussier8150 Sorry Bertrand, there is no prize.
@@paulbrodie lol!
Such a weight weenie! :D
In a way, yes. But have you noticed a haven't weighed a single thing on the Tiger Cub??
@@paulbrodie Good point. Less weight is addictive though, especially if you know you're able to save a few grams.
@@Metal-Possum My first Aermacchi race bike weighed about 245 lbs, which is not bad. Then I built the second one and focussed on saving a few grams here and there. I figured weight would be in the 130's, and got a shock when it finally weighed in at 221 lbs.
@@paulbrodie That's almost as light as a vintage CCM bicycle I have...
@@Metal-Possum Dutch bicycles were very heavy when I rented one in the 90's. It wasn't fun to pedal at all.
Please don't use your hand as a hammer
Works well for soft blows..