I stumbled across this video a few years ago without even knowing what a kinetic log splitter was. My family and I do a fair bit of firewood every year and the old hydraulic splitter (as good as it is ) was just too slow. So I decided why not try to make a kinetic splitter to make life easier every wood season. After some more research I built my own kinetic log splitter. My flywheel is much heavier than yours appears to be and is powered by a 5hp motor that is very fuel efficient. I used a double row sprocket that I found laying around (heavy duty mind you) for the pinion and made my own rack by welding the chain to suit that sprocket onto some reinforced RHS tubing. Long story short, it’s an amazing machine that I am baffled by its efficiency every time I use it and with only minor tweaks since I built it a few years ago, it still runs strong. I am contemplating putting up a video of mine showing how I built it and how it works. Maybe that’s something I will get around to one day.
Awesome work Gary. Based on what I've seen on some other kinetic splitters I'd be guessing that your flywheel is either too light and/or isn't spinning fast enough. Your stroke is longer than most but you can hear by the immediate drop in revs that it's the reduction drive through the motor, rack/pinion that is doing the work rather than the momentum of the flywheel. There's other videos up on kinetic splitters (in particular by nathan36340) using motors as low as 3hp with no noticeable reduction in motor rpm's.
"Just build one"? !, you say. I'm impressed. I have a Supersplit kinetic splitter so I appreciate your machine. I just bought it. I don't even have the skills to copy it much less reinvent it. Chain drive is a nice touch. Also the cable pulley on the spring return. Kind of steampunk. If the fly wheel was heavier it wouldn't bog down as much. Your machine has a longer reach so that will slow the flywheel on the tough stuff. I also notice that the spline shaft is higher than on my machine. Take care that the forces don't bend it into an arc, if it starts, reinforce it. Good job.
Cool splitter! My uncle had a home made splitter to. He put on a "+" type wedge on the end. It quarter the wood in one stroke. We're what America is really made of!
Pretty ingenious. It wouldn't work as well on the wood we have in the PNW as it tends to be much bigger, but I can see the usefulness for the wood you have. I'm thinking I may just need a bigger flywheel, though. When you go to do your second split on the log, keep the two pieces of the log together, rotate 90 degrees. You can then cut into 4 pieces. Saves one splitting step. I do it all the time. It works pretty good with pieces up to 12 inches in diameter. Above that I have to set the second half aside like you are doing in the video.
Your "product" is really well done ..someone below did mention that the rack and the gear are available on amazon...thanks for that information Could you explain the fuels?..sounded like you mention coal gas and wood gas...they sound like by products of this process...Thanks for showing us " how it's done" Mark
You need to configure your activation handle to be activated by a foot pedal which is attached to the handle by a steel cable. This would free up your right hand to hold on to your material being split. Another suggestion would to put a little more of a broad head on your cutting tool. Reason for this is I noticed every log you spitted you had to break it on open to separate the two pieces just split. A broader axe head would split the logs more efficiently.
It would also be more likely to stop tougher logs stone cold dead. The thin blade slices easily, which is ideal for a setup like this. The best way to prevent the issue you mentioned, would be to move the blade a few inches closer to the engine end. Have another look at the contraption and I think you'll see where I'm coming from mate
TURFA - I understand what you have said. Yes, that would be a solution, I think. However if you move the blade closer to the motor as you suggested. Then you are limiting the lengths of wood you can split. This may or may not be a issue. Another thing which would be helpful for the Operator. Would be to install guide wings on each side of the main I beam. This would act as a trough to hold the wood being split, along with centering the wood as it is pushed through the blade.
Very good. It appears to consume the logs as fast as they are loaded. And not half as scary in operation as I first thought ( though some shrouds around the motive parts might be in order )
I gotta tell you, for what you have in it, that is a very ingenious design, works great and fast too. Some rubber bumpers at the back of the ram will cushion the return stroke.
This is a nice unit. Can you please describe a few parts more specifically? Regarding the rack. How wide is it and how thick is it excluding the teeth and including the teeth. How many teeth per inch or teeth per foot? What is the length of the rack? What is the total diameter of the pinion and how many teeth does it have? I'd really appreciate you help here. Thanks.
that's one impressive design and build! well done :) I really like to see old bits and pieces given a new life and being reused rather than just tossed. if you lived closer i'd hire you to make me one! i'm no where near handy enough with metal to do that.
After several hours of operation, can you see and damage to the rack or pinion gear as the gear engages randomly and also under high stress the rack would want to jump off the pinion.
I was a bit worried with a large number of fake reviews but I am very pleased with the results. Bit of background, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxmKn8dCAXovWn8_cLYoosGLVrVrpwlIMc I need to split approximately 1.5 cords of wood and didn't feel like destroying my back. I purchased this anticipating to have a few issues splitting wood but have only come across a few logs of elm where the stringy nature of elm made it more difficult to split. Overall its not a necessarily fast process but it also isn't a very arduous one either. I came and went fairly often to do different tasks but once I stayed and got into a system I could easily split my pieces in a fairly timely manner.
Hi Gary! Cool machine and I'm eyeing a build myself... I'm not in the know but why have you selected 14.5 pressure angle on your rack and spur as opposed to the supposedly "improved" 20 pressure angle? Again I know what the advantages are of both but why did you select this pressure angle. Thank you for sharing your project video. Inspirational to say the least!
For all the naysayers: The teeth won't strip on the rack or pinion because there is no prevalent force acting on the rack until it contacts the wood being split, at which point, the teeth are in mesh. I'd hate to see these guys try to understand a manual transmission, or how to shift gears without using a clutch. Cool machine!
Nice job , I saw the allen bolts on the collars holding the drive cog on the shaft are they the ones with a woodruff key slot in them and if they are do they hold okay for this. By the way if the wheel/bearing that presses the rack onto the drive wheel goes past 90 degrees it should stop it kicking back. Thanks in advance.
Awesome machine. Great job building it yourself. I personally would go with a bigger engine for extra torque to drive through the bigger logs and you shouldn't have to wait as long for the flywheel to get back up to speed. Harbor freight has a great and cheap line of engines that would be great for this.
my only concern is the life of the rack and pinion teeth, i noticed it not engaging well more than a few times. due to the sloppy nature of the system for engaging it, id suggest a longer handle on it so you can apply more down force on it to avoid skipping, which will destroy it pretty quick.
That is sweet, aspen, white ash are strategic grain. The bug hit here also, the thing I can see a wood that is all branches it might not have the power to push through it. That’s where hydraulics excel, your right it’s fast.
hey Gary, during the walk around i noticed the main drive belt being loose and was wondering about it until you went thru the paces with the machine. the belt is supposed to slip so the engine doesn't stall in a tough chunk of wood. so my point of ponderance here is how well a centrifugal clutch would work in this system?
This is an honest question, not a criticism - I don't know the answer. In machine design, is this a normal or advisable way to employ a rack and pinion system in this way, i.e. having the rack engaged onto a moving pinion? I would be concerned about tooth wear or breakage at the engagement point.
Javier Fauxnom technically not a great idea, in most applications, but the speed of the pinion is quite slow, so it is really not spending much time in contact without being engaged. Many machines have been designed and built with a rack-and-pinion engagement like this, including the low-speed on the ram of my Sheldon shaper. The official instructions are to slow the speed down, and just ram the control handle in place, engaging the gears. They actually planetary, but same deal.
Looks like a good machine for splitting toothpicks to make smaller toothpicks. There is nothing on that machine that would stand up to the 2 foot diameter red oak that I am often splitting.
Works good , -- Idea -- slide a 10" rubber hose or so on the upper side of the cable so the pulley hits the hose and slows the return like a drag should stop real slow ..
Where and how much are those racks and pinion gears? I would really like one of these. For a home built one it layed out well. I only wander how the chains will last. Chains typically don't like a quick shock like when you engage the gear to the rack.
I wonder, Gary, have you calculated the force created by this splitter,...I'd guestimate around 2 to 3 tons ?? Another great idea from 'The Mechanical Mind of Gary' !
It's meaningless to calculate the force for this type of splitter - just like an axe. The flywheel stores energy and will deliver it as quickly as required to split the log. If you attempted to split a block of steel, the machine would generate hundreds of tons of force and break itself.
Excuse me Robin, but I don't think it's "meaningless" to 'wonder' about the mechanics of a given object. There is a better way to 'question' a comment, than to outright insult somebody. Your thoughts may agree or disagree with others, that's your privilege, as it is mine to ask what I did.
Oh, sorry, it totally wasn't meant to be offensive - just to explain why the physics of this sort of machine are hard to compare to a hydraulic splitter. A kinetic splitter has an almost unlimited amount of force but a limited amount of energy stored in the flywheel - while a hydraulic splitter has an almost unlimited amount of energy (the fuel) but the force is limited by the maximum hydraulic pressure.
Now, that's better, and I accept this explanation . I agree with that too,...." a body at rest and a body in motion " or something like this,..... etc., etc., hey ? Cheers Robin !
Robin Bennett not true hydraulic is the was to go just depends on you set up if you want more force just add a bigger cylinder small pump big cylinder huge amounts of force and less wear and tear
one thing I have always wondered and I think you showed it but did not explain it. When it comes to the end the wheel is able to slip. Otherwise it would have a violent end point. When it came to the end the engine would STOP! It has to slip. Fist up, Fight for Truth. Very good video.
THat's not what i meant. When it comes to the end, "THE MAIN GEAR" still wants to push more gears down the line. OR when you have a log where it can NOT split and it stops the driving gear on top, well then the other gear does NOT stop, WHY because the belt slips and it gives you enough time to LIFT up on the handle.
Zero Quanta ok let's use pinion (the round normal gear), and rack ( the flat gear) for the sake of clarity. If the ram has enough force to break the log : The pinion pushes the rack until it runs off it and dissemgage. Then the pinion can turn and the rack doesnt move. No hard stop. The lever lifts the rack over the pinion without engaging it as it retracts from the spring. . so the maingear(pinion) doesnt want to push more rack down the line as there is no connection then. Thats the normal operation that is intended. It does not try to push more. In fact, if all logs would break, the belt slippage could be nil and no violent end points would be met And yes, if the ram doesnt finish it's travel because the log is too hard to crack. A hard stop causes the belt to slips The first scenario is the most prevalent, though
Veikra: Ooooooooooooooooooooooooo, I didn't know the rack ran off (past) the pinion. That's what I wasn't getting. THANKS, Wheeewwww!! I will have to watch the video a gain. Nonetheless, these things are great time savers. Fist up, Fight for Truth.
Looking good! I like the simplicity. Is that rack something you scavenged off something or just a stock rack? When the ram gets to the end of it's stroke, does it automatically disengage? It appears the handle drops when the rack stops moving.
where abouts in pa. if close i would like to see it. i have a home made hydraulic made out of junk, have been using it for close to 30 years , changed the motor last year for a none junk one , worked on a fire wood crew many years ago and we had a commercial fly wheel one it was fast and would split oak all day long , fast . did a video on my home made one some years ago . also subbed your channel would be interested in how you make wood gas . thanks for the video
make it de-activating itself when its fully extends. Otherwise, nice idea, but hydraulics work allot smoother and even as fast when you have the power beyond it. Or use a big accumulator, works like a hydraulic flywheel.
I like it!!! I made one once out of a single trailer dolly and a hydro stat reverse/fwd., to turn the input shaft. But this one beats the "technology" of mine all to pieces....!☺
Quite the contraption... if you like picking your nose with your elbows. Seriously. I appreciate the engineering and know how to put this together and the video was entertaining.
love it things that are made by a person are awesome because he built it with his hands and his own brain that is what a lot of people are lacking in today s kids the world is moving to fast to show people great job on it
I'll stick with hydraulic too. I had a 15 ton with a 5-horse Briggs that would split knots all day long running about 1/3 throttle. Just had 2 sticks it wouldn't split and one I just moved a bit and it split it. The other I halved with a saw and it finished it off. Oak, black-gum, sourwood, hickory, it didn't matter. Up to 2 feet through didn't matter either. Knowing HOW to turn a stick saves you and your splitter. Hydraulics all the way and mine was set running 2400 p.s.i. and never blew a hose. 2500 p.s.i working pressure but 24 was enough.
I built one similar to this it has a 36 inch rack and Pinion and 100 pound weight on each side I run three and half horsepower Briggs & Stratton . mechanism which engages the rack down onto the pinion is a lot different than yours you do not have to hold it down it releases at the end of the stroke i've had great success with this machine. Yours is a little different keep up the good work I had to improve mine a little getting the bugs out . Good luck with your build.
Michael, Just a thought the commercial kinetic splitters advertise it as a safety feature that when you release the engagement lever for the rack, the rack will stop in mid stroke and retract.
For the amount of $$$ for the parts for that splitter, could you not have gotten a higher displacement pump for the hydraulic splitter? (More GPM's = More speed)
Holy Crap! we musta come outa the same egg! I made a ratchet type that ran on an electric 1/2 hp motor. The flywheel was from an old cordwood saw. Onlyest thing is the need for grease on that rack....involute gears need lube!
the gear rack number is r4x4 4foot long 2 inch face. you guys can find it on Amazon . and the pinion is ( martin ) number s415 spur gear 14.5 pressure angle. high carbonsteel 4 inch pitch 1-1/8" bore , 4.25 od. 2.000" face width . 15 teeth and you guys can find it on Amazon too
In the video at 1:25 you can clearly see the Martin label on the Spur Gear (pinion) and it is S412 not S415. Would like to verify the part number on the rack
Well I did some research on the rack & pinion, (if you look close you'll see the part # on that pinion gear) the gear is a Martin part # S412, so I went to a place that supplies this stuff and the accompanying rack is a Martin part # RA4 x4. The last number 4 designates the length (4'). These parts are not cheap, the price I was quoted was $306.10 for the pinion S412, and $654.75 for the rack RA4x4. This is in Canadian currency. If any UA-camrs know where these parts are commonly used please leave a comment. Maybe a guy can find a set on a used piece of equipment somewhere ? Thanks.
I don't understand splitting wood that small to start with.Looks like it will burn up so fast.I used a Fisher grandma bera for over ten years and used wood as large as would fit in the door.
reminds me of the Amish around our area with levers and pulleys on shafts at the saw mills. alot of thinking went on constructing this cool works nice good job.
This is mechanical energy splitter Kinetic energy is a measurement of force but any way thats awesome but up grading the pump and or the valve on the hydraulic splitter could have done it but props
I stumbled across this video a few years ago without even knowing what a kinetic log splitter was.
My family and I do a fair bit of firewood every year and the old hydraulic splitter (as good as it is ) was just too slow. So I decided why not try to make a kinetic splitter to make life easier every wood season.
After some more research I built my own kinetic log splitter. My flywheel is much heavier than yours appears to be and is powered by a 5hp motor that is very fuel efficient.
I used a double row sprocket that I found laying around (heavy duty mind you) for the pinion and made my own rack by welding the chain to suit that sprocket onto some reinforced RHS tubing.
Long story short, it’s an amazing machine that I am baffled by its efficiency every time I use it and with only minor tweaks since I built it a few years ago, it still runs strong.
I am contemplating putting up a video of mine showing how I built it and how it works. Maybe that’s something I will get around to one day.
Хочу посмотреть видео вашего дровокола,где я могу его посмотреть
Great video! I like the rack and pinion idea, but it looks like you need two 75 pound flywheels, or just a heavier one.
I didn't know what a kinetic splitter was till I googled and came across your video.. Very Impressive..
Awesome work Gary.
Based on what I've seen on some other kinetic splitters I'd be guessing that your flywheel is either too light and/or isn't spinning fast enough. Your stroke is longer than most but you can hear by the immediate drop in revs that it's the reduction drive through the motor, rack/pinion that is doing the work rather than the momentum of the flywheel. There's other videos up on kinetic splitters (in particular by nathan36340) using motors as low as 3hp with no noticeable reduction in motor rpm's.
Alan H p
"Just build one"? !, you say. I'm impressed. I have a Supersplit kinetic splitter so I appreciate your machine. I just bought it. I don't even have the skills to copy it much less reinvent it. Chain drive is a nice touch. Also the cable pulley on the spring return. Kind of steampunk. If the fly wheel was heavier it wouldn't bog down as much. Your machine has a longer reach so that will slow the flywheel on the tough stuff. I also notice that the spline shaft is higher than on my machine. Take care that the forces don't bend it into an arc, if it starts, reinforce it. Good job.
Man that thing really shines splitting those long small diameter logs, way faster than hydraulic
Cool splitter! My uncle had a home made splitter to. He put on a "+" type wedge on the end. It quarter the wood in one stroke. We're what America is really made of!
Pretty ingenious. It wouldn't work as well on the wood we have in the PNW as it tends to be much bigger, but I can see the usefulness for the wood you have. I'm thinking I may just need a bigger flywheel, though.
When you go to do your second split on the log, keep the two pieces of the log together, rotate 90 degrees. You can then cut into 4 pieces. Saves one splitting step. I do it all the time. It works pretty good with pieces up to 12 inches in diameter. Above that I have to set the second half aside like you are doing in the video.
Your "product" is really well done ..someone below did mention that the rack and the gear are available on amazon...thanks for that information
Could you explain the fuels?..sounded like you mention coal gas and wood gas...they sound like by products of this process...Thanks for showing us " how it's done" Mark
You need to configure your activation handle to be activated by a foot pedal which is attached to the handle by a steel cable. This would free up your right hand to hold on to your material being split. Another suggestion would to put a little more of a broad head on your cutting tool. Reason for this is I noticed every log you spitted you had to break it on open to separate the two pieces just split. A broader axe head would split the logs more efficiently.
It would also be more likely to stop tougher logs stone cold dead. The thin blade slices easily, which is ideal for a setup like this.
The best way to prevent the issue you mentioned, would be to move the blade a few inches closer to the engine end. Have another look at the contraption and I think you'll see where I'm coming from mate
TURFA - I understand what you have said. Yes, that would be a solution, I think. However if you move the blade closer to the motor as you suggested. Then you are limiting the lengths of wood you can split. This may or may not be a issue.
Another thing which would be helpful for the Operator. Would be to install guide wings on each side of the main I beam. This would act as a trough to hold the wood being split, along with centering the wood as it is pushed through the blade.
JIM Short
Where he has his rack mounted to the push block he loses about 6 inches of the racks length.
Very good. It appears to consume the logs as fast as they are loaded. And not half as scary in operation as I first thought ( though some shrouds around the motive parts might be in order )
Don Challenger you are a safety gay.
Don Challenger Jj
I gotta tell you, for what you have in it, that is a very ingenious design, works great and fast too. Some rubber bumpers at the back of the ram will cushion the return stroke.
Ingenious. Just needs a few tweaks, rubber bump stops, chain/ belt guards, split wood trays on each side
Very well engineered! Just curious, where did you get the rack & pinion?
It looks like you could you a heavier flywheel. Great job though. Do you know what your gear reduction is?
This is a nice unit. Can you please describe a few parts more specifically? Regarding the rack. How wide is it and how thick is it excluding the teeth and including the teeth. How many teeth per inch or teeth per foot? What is the length of the rack? What is the total diameter of the pinion and how many teeth does it have? I'd really appreciate you help here. Thanks.
Have you thought about putting a damper to slow the rack when it returns? Should save you from having to grab it and slow it down
First person I have seen to put the flat side of the cut log down. Someone finally gets it.
Nevermind... he went back to the curved side down...
haha,...always get's ya !
that's one impressive design and build! well done :)
I really like to see old bits and pieces given a new life and being reused rather than just tossed.
if you lived closer i'd hire you to make me one! i'm no where near handy enough with metal to do that.
After several hours of operation, can you see and damage to the rack or pinion gear as the gear engages randomly
and also under high stress the rack would want to jump off the pinion.
good job and hella stroke add more weight to wheel or a secondary wheel how does it work on knotted stuff
Great video bud. Tell me, what size is the rack? Do you know how many ton pressure it's doing?
I was a bit worried with a large number of fake reviews but I am very pleased with the results. Bit of background, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxmKn8dCAXovWn8_cLYoosGLVrVrpwlIMc I need to split approximately 1.5 cords of wood and didn't feel like destroying my back. I purchased this anticipating to have a few issues splitting wood but have only come across a few logs of elm where the stringy nature of elm made it more difficult to split. Overall its not a necessarily fast process but it also isn't a very arduous one either. I came and went fairly often to do different tasks but once I stayed and got into a system I could easily split my pieces in a fairly timely manner.
Hi Gary! Cool machine and I'm eyeing a build myself...
I'm not in the know but why have you selected 14.5 pressure angle on your rack and spur as opposed to the supposedly "improved" 20 pressure angle? Again I know what the advantages are of both but why did you select this pressure angle.
Thank you for sharing your project video. Inspirational to say the least!
Outstanding homemade creativity! How can I make one?
Perfect speed for a splitter. Fast enough to be efficient but still safe
For all the naysayers: The teeth won't strip on the rack or pinion because there is no prevalent force acting on the rack until it contacts the wood being split, at which point, the teeth are in mesh. I'd hate to see these guys try to understand a manual transmission, or how to shift gears without using a clutch. Cool machine!
Hi great job , can I use part of your video to my compilation homemade inventions and projects
Gary, Very nice Job. I can't imagine he amount of time you put into that design.
Nice job , I saw the allen bolts on the collars holding the drive cog on the shaft are they the ones with a woodruff key slot in them and if they are do they hold okay for this. By the way if the wheel/bearing that presses the rack onto the drive wheel goes past 90 degrees it should stop it kicking back. Thanks in advance.
Awesome machine. Great job building it yourself. I personally would go with a bigger engine for extra torque to drive through the bigger logs and you shouldn't have to wait as long for the flywheel to get back up to speed. Harbor freight has a great and cheap line of engines that would be great for this.
my only concern is the life of the rack and pinion teeth, i noticed it not engaging well more than a few times. due to the sloppy nature of the system for engaging it, id suggest a longer handle on it so you can apply more down force on it to avoid skipping, which will destroy it pretty quick.
Get a piece of an old tire and bolt it to the I beam for a return stopper so it doesn't damage your washers
That is sweet, aspen, white ash are strategic grain. The bug hit here also, the thing I can see a wood that is all branches it might not have the power to push through it. That’s where hydraulics excel, your right it’s fast.
Have you considered a shock absorber to "catch" the pinion when it retracts? A hydraulic plunger of sorts. Well done!
hey Gary,
during the walk around i noticed the main drive belt being loose and was wondering about it until you went thru the paces with the machine. the belt is supposed to slip so the engine doesn't stall in a tough chunk of wood. so my point of ponderance here is how well a centrifugal clutch would work in this system?
This is an honest question, not a criticism - I don't know the answer. In machine design, is this a normal or advisable way to employ a rack and pinion system in this way, i.e. having the rack engaged onto a moving pinion? I would be concerned about tooth wear or breakage at the engagement point.
Javier Fauxnom technically not a great idea, in most applications, but the speed of the pinion is quite slow, so it is really not spending much time in contact without being engaged.
Many machines have been designed and built with a rack-and-pinion engagement like this, including the low-speed on the ram of my Sheldon shaper. The official instructions are to slow the speed down, and just ram the control handle in place, engaging the gears. They actually planetary, but same deal.
Brilliant machine , thanks for posting
Looks like a good machine for splitting toothpicks to make smaller toothpicks. There is nothing on that machine that would stand up to the 2 foot diameter red oak that I am often splitting.
Works good , -- Idea -- slide a 10" rubber hose or so on the upper side of the cable so the pulley hits the hose and slows the return like a drag should stop real slow ..
Where and how much are those racks and pinion gears? I would really like one of these. For a home built one it layed out well. I only wander how the chains will last. Chains typically don't like a quick shock like when you engage the gear to the rack.
I wonder, Gary, have you calculated the force created by this splitter,...I'd guestimate around 2 to 3 tons ??
Another great idea from 'The Mechanical Mind of Gary' !
It's meaningless to calculate the force for this type of splitter - just like an axe. The flywheel stores energy and will deliver it as quickly as required to split the log. If you attempted to split a block of steel, the machine would generate hundreds of tons of force and break itself.
Excuse me Robin, but I don't think it's "meaningless" to 'wonder' about the mechanics of a given object.
There is a better way to 'question' a comment, than to outright insult somebody.
Your thoughts may agree or disagree with others, that's your privilege, as it is mine to ask what I did.
Oh, sorry, it totally wasn't meant to be offensive - just to explain why the physics of this sort of machine are hard to compare to a hydraulic splitter. A kinetic splitter has an almost unlimited amount of force but a limited amount of energy stored in the flywheel - while a hydraulic splitter has an almost unlimited amount of energy (the fuel) but the force is limited by the maximum hydraulic pressure.
Now, that's better, and I accept this explanation . I agree with that too,...." a body at rest and a body in motion " or something like this,..... etc., etc., hey ?
Cheers Robin !
Robin Bennett not true hydraulic is the was to go just depends on you set up if you want more force just add a bigger cylinder small pump big cylinder huge amounts of force and less wear and tear
one thing I have always wondered and I think you showed it but did not explain it. When it comes to the end the wheel is able to slip. Otherwise it would have a violent end point. When it came to the end the engine would STOP! It has to slip. Fist up, Fight for Truth. Very good video.
It runs out of rack and the pinion then spins freely. that's why it cannot hit the stationnary plate.
THat's not what i meant. When it comes to the end, "THE MAIN GEAR" still wants to push more gears down the line. OR when you have a log where it can NOT split and it stops the driving gear on top, well then the other gear does NOT stop, WHY because the belt slips and it gives you enough time to LIFT up on the handle.
Zero Quanta ok let's use pinion (the round normal gear), and rack ( the flat gear) for the sake of clarity.
If the ram has enough force to break the log :
The pinion pushes the rack until it runs off it and dissemgage. Then the pinion can turn and the rack doesnt move. No hard stop. The lever lifts the rack over the pinion without engaging it as it retracts from the spring. . so the maingear(pinion) doesnt want to push more rack down the line as there is no connection then. Thats the normal operation that is intended. It does not try to push more. In fact, if all logs would break, the belt slippage could be nil and no violent end points would be met
And yes, if the ram doesnt finish it's travel because the log is too hard to crack. A hard stop causes the belt to slips
The first scenario is the most prevalent, though
Veikra: Ooooooooooooooooooooooooo,
I didn't know the rack ran off (past) the pinion. That's what I wasn't getting. THANKS, Wheeewwww!! I will have to watch the video a gain. Nonetheless, these things are great time savers. Fist up, Fight for Truth.
Looking good! I like the simplicity.
Is that rack something you scavenged off something or just a stock rack? When the ram gets to the end of it's stroke, does it automatically disengage? It appears the handle drops when the rack stops moving.
Great work mate. You’d be a handy guy to have around.
Nice tool you built there! what do you use to lube the rack gearing?
Oh baby, that wood is so knotty. It needs a spanking.
aguyandhiscomputer xD
How is it better than the hydraulic press?
Brilliant piece of kit. Well done
where abouts in pa. if close i would like to see it. i have a home made hydraulic made out of junk, have been using it for close to 30 years , changed the motor last year for a none junk one , worked on a fire wood crew many years ago and we had a commercial fly wheel one it was fast and would split oak all day long , fast . did a video on my home made one some years ago . also subbed your channel would be interested in how you make wood gas . thanks for the video
make it de-activating itself when its fully extends. Otherwise, nice idea, but hydraulics work allot smoother and even as fast when you have the power beyond it. Or use a big accumulator, works like a hydraulic flywheel.
Pretty darn clever! Does need a cup holder though.
I like it!!! I made one once out of a single trailer dolly and a hydro stat reverse/fwd., to turn the input shaft. But this one beats the "technology" of mine all to pieces....!☺
Quite the contraption... if you like picking your nose with your elbows. Seriously. I appreciate the engineering and know how to put this together and the video was entertaining.
love it things that are made by a person are awesome because he built it with his hands and his own brain that is what a lot of people are lacking in today s kids the world is moving to fast to show people great job on it
I wish I was your neighbor, great design. Great idea.
Hi great vid , where did you get your rack and pinion set up
I love it! Who sells the rack and pinion?
What happens if the log is too hard and does not split ? Is there any fuse somewhere like a shear bolt something else ??
My father refused to get a splitter, said you heat 3 time with wood, once cutting once splitting it with a maul and then burning it.
R.I.P Pacca.
Nice work Gary!
Any videos about running engines on charcoal?
What keeps the gear mesh from grinding before they fully engage? Seems like any other design would grind, yet this doesn't.
Splits that soft popal pretty good, like to see if it could handle some oak or elm.
locust!
There are videos all over UA-cam showing kinetic splitters doing an excellent job on hard woods such as oak, elm, and locust.
I'll stick with hydraulic too. I had a 15 ton with a 5-horse Briggs that would split knots all day long running about 1/3 throttle. Just had 2 sticks it wouldn't split and one I just moved a bit and it split it. The other I halved with a saw and it finished it off. Oak, black-gum, sourwood, hickory, it didn't matter. Up to 2 feet through didn't matter either. Knowing HOW to turn a stick saves you and your splitter. Hydraulics all the way and mine was set running 2400 p.s.i. and never blew a hose. 2500 p.s.i working pressure but 24 was enough.
What keeps the gear teeth from jumping and chattering until they engage?
Wouldn't it be a good idea to install a guard around that flywheel and gear?
I built one similar to this it has a 36 inch rack and Pinion and 100 pound weight on each side I run three and half horsepower Briggs & Stratton . mechanism which engages the rack down onto the pinion is a lot different than yours you do not have to hold it down it releases at the end of the stroke i've had great success with this machine. Yours is a little different keep up the good work I had to improve mine a little getting the bugs out . Good luck with your build.
Michael Howard
Michael, Just a thought the commercial kinetic splitters advertise it as a safety feature that when you release the engagement lever for the rack, the rack will stop in mid stroke and retract.
For the amount of $$$ for the parts for that splitter, could you not have gotten a higher displacement pump for the hydraulic splitter? (More GPM's = More speed)
Gary,
Where did you get your rack and pinion and what the size. Good video, looking to build one soon.
what thickness shaft did you use for the bulldozer clutch plate flywheel, and also thickness of shaft for pinion
Yeah, I think your flywheel needs more mass (weight), and maybe a little more speed, (rpm's). Other, nicely done.
do you think this unit could use a four or six way wedge
I have this old 225 slant 6 & transmission I am going to make a log splitter out of, don't know how yet but will figure something out
Excellent! I love the history of the repurposed parts. This use to be..., this is off of a...
👍
So you are the one responsible for Pennsylvania's deforestation problem.
Kinetic is the word. barely functional and awesome and home made. Perfect!
Very nice build. It seems to do what you want it to.
Holy Crap! we musta come outa the same egg! I made a ratchet type that ran on an electric 1/2 hp motor. The flywheel was from an old cordwood saw. Onlyest thing is the need for grease on that rack....involute gears need lube!
You could use some pieces of an old truck tire tread area to make a bumper for the return of the ram.
Sweet machine, I like your reduce reuse recycle philosophy.
snugg the belt a little it slips on big logs didnt hardly pull the motor down works great
Eddie Bolen sort of a safety feature, I think... also cuts down on wear and tear
You should grease the moving parts. Good job!
Fantastic! great job of engineering.
Absolutely amazing.
I love building my own stuff also.
Great job sir. Nice build.
its amazing what a drop of oil will do
Mr. gari put the handle on the other side of the machine that turns off itself when it comes to the end
Main thing is the governor on the Briggs isn't working. Fix that and it'll speed up your operation.
Nice work! Where did you source the parts?
the gear rack number is r4x4 4foot long 2 inch face. you guys can find it on Amazon . and the pinion is ( martin ) number s415 spur gear 14.5 pressure angle. high carbonsteel 4 inch pitch 1-1/8" bore , 4.25 od. 2.000" face width . 15 teeth and you guys can find it on Amazon too
Cowboy 21 awesome thanks
In the video at 1:25 you can clearly see the Martin label on the Spur Gear (pinion) and it is S412 not S415. Would like to verify the part number on the rack
Well I did some research on the rack & pinion, (if you look close you'll see the part # on that pinion gear) the gear is a Martin part # S412, so I went to a place that supplies this stuff and the accompanying rack is a Martin part # RA4 x4. The last number 4 designates the length (4'). These parts are not cheap, the price I was quoted was $306.10 for the pinion S412, and $654.75 for the rack RA4x4. This is in Canadian currency. If any UA-camrs know where these parts are commonly used please leave a comment. Maybe a guy can find a set on a used piece of equipment somewhere ?
Thanks.
Simple Machine Easy to Understand. Good Done.
You could weld a little pin on the blade, so your wood sticks to the blade at the spot you want it to.
Wasn't Gary Gilmore put to death by firing squad about 20 years ago (or so) out in Utah or somewhere?
I don't understand splitting wood that small to start with.Looks like it will burn up so fast.I used a Fisher grandma bera for over ten years and used wood as large as would fit in the door.
reminds me of the Amish around our area with levers and pulleys on shafts at the saw mills. alot of thinking went on constructing this cool works nice good job.
It works pretty well but it would have been easier to add a high volume pump to the hydraulic wood splitter.
какой. профель шак зуба. размер рейки зуба. высата. толщина зуба длина
This is mechanical energy splitter Kinetic energy is a measurement of force but any way thats awesome but up grading the pump and or the valve on the hydraulic splitter could have done it but props
love this machine good job i have the dr k rapidfire from DR