I bought the BL touch v3 from creality for the CR10 V2, when i bought mine. That cable was correct. I had read about issues, and it did not cost more. So i just went with that. Thanks for the video, i have just ordered the SKR 1.4 Turbo, with 2209s Not to do sensorless homing, but primary to do auto x-gantry level and liniar advanced. This video helped me a lot to understand that task, before i decided to go this route.
I know I am about a year and a half late on this, but what I found work when upgrading my CR-10v3 to a SKR Mini E3 v3 was that the Z-Stop went to the middle pin (PA1) while D11 went to the end pin (PC14). The sad part is that it took me 4+ hours to figure that out, and that only by connecting the BLTouch straight to the board. Just so no one else has to struggle like I did.
@@devotedyodel How did you plug in the bl touch, with the existing z limit+ and d11 cables or did you buy an extension cable to bypass the daughter board?
@@maximiusiv3741 I used all the existing wiring and daughter board; I just had to trace the wires and then map them in the firmware based on where they hit the board. I grabbed a multimeter, set it to "continuity", and tested each wire at the probe with wires in the electrical box. It's best to confirm since I've heard some colors/pins can be inconsistent with probes. My pinout went like this: CR Touch, plugged directly into daughter board, then at the mobo, the D11 pin went to PC14, and the 3 wires on that same ribbon cable directly following D11 (labelled Z-Limit) went to the remaining pins on the BL-Touch header on the mobo. So from top to bottom looking at the board so you can read Big Tree Tech, the pins go: D11 (Yellow probe), Empty, Z-Limit (Blue Probe), Z-Limit (Black Probe), Z-Limit (Red Probe). I pulled the wires out of thier stock connectors and put them into one JST-XH-5Y connector so they would click in like stock. I had to solder a new wire for D11 since it comes with a dupont connector stock. In my klipper firmware, I use this pin map: sensor_pin: ^PA1 control_pin: PC14 UA-cam is being weird about me sending a link to my cheat sheet; I think it is flagging it as spam. Email me on gmail and I can just send it to you. My username is forgelib at gmail
This is why you verify connectivity between the black and brown (GND) pins where you're about to connect it. If no connectivity, you have it hooked up backwards. That's all you have to do to know how to connect it to the bltouch port underneath the extruder.
Think I'm going to upgrade to this mainboard... The original on my CR-10 v2 has just stopped reading files from the sd card slot. Still recognises the cards but wont read any files!?
My stock board on the CR10 died and can't get them anymore. I've got the BTT wired up but have no clue what I'm doing to put the firmware on it. I've downloaded the files you included and can access Marlin in Visual Studio Code but from there I am lost. Any tips on getting the firmware onto the board? Thank you!
The BTT board (with SD card inserted) should appear as a USB drive on your system. I can't remember setting it up when I installed VS and everything, but after building Marlin, VS or PlatformIO automatically copied the firmware onto the drive. If you can't get it to do that, the firmware file is built on your computer and can be manually copied onto the SD card. When you power cycle the BTT board, it should read the firmware. Best of luck.
i inherited a cr10 v2 with a bad motherboard... the fans don't work... so i'm thinking of using one of these boards instead... but you said that the filament run-out switch won't work... did you get it to work...??
The filament sensor can be connected to the BTT LCD display board or the motherboard. If you connect the filament runout sensor to the motherboard and use the standard LCD, Marlin should work fine.
Hi again, so I realized that I was missing the DCDC compared to your setup. When I plugged it in, I think I put it upside down or something. Now nothing works anymore. I have to supply power through USB using my octoprint, but that clearly not enough power. I went back to the old Creality board to realize that the BL Touch was fried. So I tried to flash a new firmware without BLTouch instructions. And I flashed a firmware for Melzi boards instead of RAMPS (TH3D Unified 2). Now, I get a blank screen and even the Creality Board is not recognized by my computer. 1. How can I flash back a proper firmware if the board never gets recognized by the computer? I tried putting it at root of sd card but that does not seem to work for Creality Boards? 2. The creality board is proving that the power supply and everything else is working fine, except for BLTouch. So the SKR1.4 is probably affected right after power supply and I can notice a brownish region surrounding the first component placed close to power wires. How to know for sure this is the component to replace? How to replace it? Thanks.
I also ended up here after frying my board the same way and now thinking about upgrading ;-) However i'd also want to try fixing the board. Can you please tell which type of capacitor it is that needs to be replaced? cannot identify mine any more. I think its a 226?
Sorry, I don't have the exact Tantalum capacitor spec since I could not find the exact replacement. I ordered a few, but have not tried to repair the board yet. Here are the ones I ordered: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/avx/f951a226kaaaq2/?qs=a5AWWN0nKwbBGQi3qv62MQ%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD, www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/kemet/t491a226k010atauto/?qs=ds50AKTGxA8UD0p2cTZXRg%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD, www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/avx/tpsa226m010r0900/?qs=YMBIwoNQYdWmQ7j4nhwIuw%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD
Sorry. I ordered a few and was going to try to replace it, but decided to just upgrade to the Big Tree board. I cannot verify that I got the correct parts. Here are the parts I ordered: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/avx/f951a226kaaaq2/?qs=a5AWWN0nKwbBGQi3qv62MQ%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/kemet/t491a226k010atauto/?qs=ds50AKTGxA8UD0p2cTZXRg%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/avx/tpsa226m010r0900/?qs=YMBIwoNQYdWmQ7j4nhwIuw%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD
I'm switching my cr10 v3 to the btt 2.0 board. I hate the printer it's like creality abandoned it haha they sent me a whole new titan extruder motor and hotend assembly because of a silly reason. I read the hotend assembly abs enclosure is defective somehow but they're keeping it quiet. I'm building a new control box for fun to familiarize myself with the software and hardware for when I build a voron 2.4
Thanks for this video. Is it possible to not bend the stepper-motor driver pin for the Z, E0 and E1 drivers as shown at the end of the video? Or is it going to fry the board otherwise?
I believe that there is an issue with sensorless homing and some driver boards. It is dependent on which driver you have and I don't believe that it will fry anything if you don't remove the pin. I got this information from Chris Riley's video. Please watch his video starting at around 6:03. ua-cam.com/video/oHMZ0ocTYvM/v-deo.html
I used Z and E1 drivers for the two independent Z axis steppers so I could do X axis auto align and sensorless homing. See my comment on the pins above.
@@chuckjoga1161 I'm not sure I understand all that is at stake here, sorry I'm too newbie. I would like to enable the second extruder too, because I'm planning on plugging in a syringe pump onto it. Does that mean that I cannot have the same Z configuration as you? is that a problem?
@mile high So Recently I acquired a Cr10 V3 used. BLtouch seemed to work fine with stock board and ender's firmware however, I am not a fan of not being able to make changes or not having full color TFT. I ended up going with the SKR 1.4 turbo. This video helped a little but no matter what I did I could not get BLtouch working using only 4 pins which is all i found passing through the convector board one pin on the harness is wired to 2 of the BLtouch pins (ground). I even tried just attaching an extra ground cable at the board end splitting the ground. It did not work. I was about to give up and try another board i had lying around and decided to use the 5 inch BLtouch cable to just test the BLtouch on the bench. without going through connector board on the printer it worked fine. I gave up trying to use it and just routed a long run of wire all the way down to my board. installed a 5 pin connector near where the harness attaches to the upper board so i could disconnect it with the harness. So my question is what version BLtouch touch are you using that allows it to function with only 4 pins at the board level?
did you know you can plan ahead for a video and then edit the video afterward? this is frustrating as hell to listen to. "well actually what I said was wrong, but good luck keeping this all straight!"
I bought the BL touch v3 from creality for the CR10 V2, when i bought mine. That cable was correct. I had read about issues, and it did not cost more. So i just went with that.
Thanks for the video, i have just ordered the SKR 1.4 Turbo, with 2209s Not to do sensorless homing, but primary to do auto x-gantry level and liniar advanced.
This video helped me a lot to understand that task, before i decided to go this route.
Wish I saw this last night....thank you for this!
I know I am about a year and a half late on this, but what I found work when upgrading my CR-10v3 to a SKR Mini E3 v3 was that the Z-Stop went to the middle pin (PA1) while D11 went to the end pin (PC14). The sad part is that it took me 4+ hours to figure that out, and that only by connecting the BLTouch straight to the board. Just so no one else has to struggle like I did.
This helped me out a bunch; thanks! Got mine working :)
@@devotedyodel Did you swap any of the cables in the 3 pin z stop to make it work?
@@maximiusiv3741 I use a virtual Z Stop with my CR Touch and let my Klipper firmware know to use that.
@@devotedyodel How did you plug in the bl touch, with the existing z limit+ and d11 cables or did you buy an extension cable to bypass the daughter board?
@@maximiusiv3741 I used all the existing wiring and daughter board; I just had to trace the wires and then map them in the firmware based on where they hit the board. I grabbed a multimeter, set it to "continuity", and tested each wire at the probe with wires in the electrical box. It's best to confirm since I've heard some colors/pins can be inconsistent with probes.
My pinout went like this: CR Touch, plugged directly into daughter board, then at the mobo, the D11 pin went to PC14, and the 3 wires on that same ribbon cable directly following D11 (labelled Z-Limit) went to the remaining pins on the BL-Touch header on the mobo. So from top to bottom looking at the board so you can read Big Tree Tech, the pins go: D11 (Yellow probe), Empty, Z-Limit (Blue Probe), Z-Limit (Black Probe), Z-Limit (Red Probe).
I pulled the wires out of thier stock connectors and put them into one JST-XH-5Y connector so they would click in like stock. I had to solder a new wire for D11 since it comes with a dupont connector stock.
In my klipper firmware, I use this pin map:
sensor_pin: ^PA1
control_pin: PC14
UA-cam is being weird about me sending a link to my cheat sheet; I think it is flagging it as spam. Email me on gmail and I can just send it to you. My username is forgelib at gmail
This is why you verify connectivity between the black and brown (GND) pins where you're about to connect it. If no connectivity, you have it hooked up backwards. That's all you have to do to know how to connect it to the bltouch port underneath the extruder.
How did you actually mount it in your control box? I'm assuming you had to cut bigger holes for the bigger USB port.
I blew that same capacitor when I tried to use a longer wire for my filament runout sensor
As did I. Any luck with the capacitor replacement?
Think I'm going to upgrade to this mainboard... The original on my CR-10 v2 has just stopped reading files from the sd card slot. Still recognises the cards but wont read any files!?
the preconfigured marlin zip and your file should theoretically also work for the Cr-10S, right?
My stock board on the CR10 died and can't get them anymore. I've got the BTT wired up but have no clue what I'm doing to put the firmware on it. I've downloaded the files you included and can access Marlin in Visual Studio Code but from there I am lost. Any tips on getting the firmware onto the board? Thank you!
The BTT board (with SD card inserted) should appear as a USB drive on your system. I can't remember setting it up when I installed VS and everything, but after building Marlin, VS or PlatformIO automatically copied the firmware onto the drive. If you can't get it to do that, the firmware file is built on your computer and can be manually copied onto the SD card. When you power cycle the BTT board, it should read the firmware. Best of luck.
i inherited a cr10 v2 with a bad motherboard... the fans don't work... so i'm thinking of using one of these boards instead... but you said that the filament run-out switch won't work... did you get it to work...??
The filament sensor can be connected to the BTT LCD display board or the motherboard. If you connect the filament runout sensor to the motherboard and use the standard LCD, Marlin should work fine.
I was looking for this info for a while!
and how do you mount it?
Hi again, so I realized that I was missing the DCDC compared to your setup. When I plugged it in, I think I put it upside down or something.
Now nothing works anymore. I have to supply power through USB using my octoprint, but that clearly not enough power.
I went back to the old Creality board to realize that the BL Touch was fried. So I tried to flash a new firmware without BLTouch instructions.
And I flashed a firmware for Melzi boards instead of RAMPS (TH3D Unified 2). Now, I get a blank screen and even the Creality Board is not recognized by my computer.
1. How can I flash back a proper firmware if the board never gets recognized by the computer? I tried putting it at root of sd card but that does not seem to work for Creality Boards?
2. The creality board is proving that the power supply and everything else is working fine, except for BLTouch. So the SKR1.4 is probably affected right after power supply and I can notice a brownish region surrounding the first component placed close to power wires. How to know for sure this is the component to replace? How to replace it?
Thanks.
I just did the same thing! which led me to your video!
I have the same 3d printer and the layout of my wiring from left to right is:
1- unknown
2- 2.0
3- d11
4- Npwr
5-GND
Is this possible?
I did exactly the same thing! and am doing the same upgrade, which led me here. LOL.
I may need your help. I just got my hands on one a couple minutes ago.
I also ended up here after frying my board the same way and now thinking about upgrading ;-)
However i'd also want to try fixing the board. Can you please tell which type of capacitor it is that needs to be replaced? cannot identify mine any more. I think its a 226?
Sorry, I don't have the exact Tantalum capacitor spec since I could not find the exact replacement. I ordered a few, but have not tried to repair the board yet. Here are the ones I ordered: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/avx/f951a226kaaaq2/?qs=a5AWWN0nKwbBGQi3qv62MQ%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD, www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/kemet/t491a226k010atauto/?qs=ds50AKTGxA8UD0p2cTZXRg%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD, www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/avx/tpsa226m010r0900/?qs=YMBIwoNQYdWmQ7j4nhwIuw%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD
hello, I had the same problem the capacitor C3 burned, do you know the value for me to change it?
thank you
Sorry. I ordered a few and was going to try to replace it, but decided to just upgrade to the Big Tree board. I cannot verify that I got the correct parts. Here are the parts I ordered: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/avx/f951a226kaaaq2/?qs=a5AWWN0nKwbBGQi3qv62MQ%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/kemet/t491a226k010atauto/?qs=ds50AKTGxA8UD0p2cTZXRg%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/avx/tpsa226m010r0900/?qs=YMBIwoNQYdWmQ7j4nhwIuw%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD
Thank you!
I'm switching my cr10 v3 to the btt 2.0 board. I hate the printer it's like creality abandoned it haha they sent me a whole new titan extruder motor and hotend assembly because of a silly reason. I read the hotend assembly abs enclosure is defective somehow but they're keeping it quiet. I'm building a new control box for fun to familiarize myself with the software and hardware for when I build a voron 2.4
Thanks for this video. Is it possible to not bend the stepper-motor driver pin for the Z, E0 and E1 drivers as shown at the end of the video? Or is it going to fry the board otherwise?
I believe that there is an issue with sensorless homing and some driver boards. It is dependent on which driver you have and I don't believe that it will fry anything if you don't remove the pin. I got this information from Chris Riley's video. Please watch his video starting at around 6:03. ua-cam.com/video/oHMZ0ocTYvM/v-deo.html
I used Z and E1 drivers for the two independent Z axis steppers so I could do X axis auto align and sensorless homing. See my comment on the pins above.
@@chuckjoga1161 I'm not sure I understand all that is at stake here, sorry I'm too newbie. I would like to enable the second extruder too, because I'm planning on plugging in a syringe pump onto it. Does that mean that I cannot have the same Z configuration as you? is that a problem?
When I plug the main extruder to the E1 on the SKR board, then any Z move also generates some extrusion. Is that normal?
@@YohanFarouz Correct. You need to change the Z configuration. See my other comment.
I've been having tons of issues trying to get bltouch to work on my old cr10. Buying this board tonight and going to follow your tutorial. Thanks man!
@mile high
So Recently I acquired a Cr10 V3 used. BLtouch seemed to work fine with stock board and ender's firmware however, I am not a fan of not being able to make changes or not having full color TFT. I ended up going with the SKR 1.4 turbo. This video helped a little but no matter what I did I could not get BLtouch working using only 4 pins which is all i found passing through the convector board one pin on the harness is wired to 2 of the BLtouch pins (ground). I even tried just attaching an extra ground cable at the board end splitting the ground. It did not work. I was about to give up and try another board i had lying around and decided to use the 5 inch BLtouch cable to just test the BLtouch on the bench. without going through connector board on the printer it worked fine. I gave up trying to use it and just routed a long run of wire all the way down to my board. installed a 5 pin connector near where the harness attaches to the upper board so i could disconnect it with the harness.
So my question is what version BLtouch touch are you using that allows it to function with only 4 pins at the board level?
Why they don't add a handful of diodes, would save the user and their reputation!
1 vague minute on how not to blow up your printer...
Would've been awesome to take 2 minutes with a multimeter and show the test !
did you know you can plan ahead for a video and then edit the video afterward? this is frustrating as hell to listen to. "well actually what I said was wrong, but good luck keeping this all straight!"