You’ve covered a lot of useful points, great explanations, I think the tips in this video will certainly help a lot of beginner cutters, but, you had me at “flat lap”. 🤪👍
Thanks for your feedback. I noticed you do your cutting on a flat lap. I use both, now. If I'm not happy with the preforming on my periphery wheel, I will bring it into shape during sanding on my 4 1/2" sanding disc.
Thank you very much for the tips! Being a beginner is a very precarious situation with every stone. Trying to develop the skill set needed incorporates a formula to maximize crt weight, best pattern and play of color presentation, and a inclusion avoidance and removal is difficult, to say the least. Adding the other variables that each stone may have hidden inside makes it an order of magnitude more complex and difficult to work with. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Great video, Robert. I find myself improving over the time since I have started. I am no where near the level of skill that you have, of course, but I will get there. I am using a dremel. it is probably harder to get good results on bigger stones, but even that may be possible with time. Maybe you can do a tutorial about facing opals properly when cutting. thanks.
Thank you for watching and your feedback. I guess if I didn't have access to bigger machines I would adapt to using smaller machines. I am glad to hear you recognise you are improving. It always good to go back and look at your first stones. They are always a good indicator of how you are improving.
Dremel cabbing is far more difficult with a dremel than with wheels, so if you're getting anywhere near symmetrical cabochons then give yourself a pat on the back. I use a dremel too pending my machine build and find that once the stone is on the dop stick it's easier to keep the dremel still and work the stone on it as you would with wheels rather than working the dremel on the stone, If that makes sense? Of course more difficult with bigger stones but still doable. Only a very small part of an opal is actually in contact with any wheel or abrasive really so nova points are fiddly but effective.
Haha, I spend waaay too much time trying to make my cabs symmetric. Templates help, but they don’t help with dome symmetry. I’m good with ovals and cushion cuts. Round is still a challenge.
Thank you for your feedback. Don't worry, that time spent trying to get it right, will pay off. I have my failures, if I'm tired or in a rush, I don't always get it right. A quick review of stones the next day often reveals my mistakes. 🙂
Ok having watched now, i have a very different setup and don't intend on getting a cab machine... well see what the future holds, but from the beginning i thought that a convex cutting surface was putting too many variables into the technique. Perfectly happy with my dremel and paper system now. . Oh and is all enclosed now, I'm back in business!
I think the system you are using is very good, no need to change anything. For me, my 2 speed sander is so important. I dread the day it stops working. (might need to consider having it rewound). If you don't have access to diamond discs or wheels, a coarse grade of paper will quickly bring opal into shape and finer grades will give it that lustre you need before polishing. Keep up the good work Dr Fill of encouraging people to recycle. It doesn't matter what your machine looks like as long as you get the results.
@diverseopalproducts the sander I use is literally the cheapest one you can find at bunnings! Yet I love it. I've already replaced it once- don't think you can blame the machine, I don't think it was ever designed to be used wet. It became an electrical shock hazard. You will now that my new setup has a sturdy base that is angled downwards, with water moving to a sponge that is pressed against the sand paper. That way the system is kept moist but the motor theoretically will not catastrophically fail. That little motor is connected too a potentiometer, so you can select any speed you like.
@@drfill9210 The standard for a lot of opal cutters was a dental lathe because of the quietness and speed but the price was prohibitive for most part timers. So, I bought 10 x Ryobi 150mm bench grinders, removed the wheels and guards. Bought 4 1/2" aluminium bar, turned up discs on my lathe, put a 12mm thread in the disc, rubber on the face and sold them as budget sanders. They all went to good homes. To overcome potential water issues put a tight fitting, on the shaft, oversize rubber washer, about 40mm to act as a water slinger, to keep the water away from your bearings. Yes, turn on and off at the plug not the machine if working with water.
@@diverseopalproducts nice tip! I have the unit I replaced still. I'll take it apart and have a look at the bearings etc and practice with that first. The switch cover broke on the other unit, but I never thought to not use the switch! I'm setting up an old bench grinder as a backup, still has the original stone wheel. Converts an opal to powder in about 15 seconds. I actually grabbed some dopping wax ands pushed that through the stone to soften the ride. I don't have a lathe... I barely use the grinder anyway.
best Opal cutter on the net , indeed🙂👍👍
Thank you for your kind comments.
Not only cutter/carver
Also the tips and tricks on Everything is simply masterful
@@V27RV Thank you. You are very kind.
You’ve covered a lot of useful points, great explanations, I think the tips in this video will certainly help a lot of beginner cutters, but, you had me at “flat lap”. 🤪👍
Thanks for your feedback. I noticed you do your cutting on a flat lap. I use both, now. If I'm not happy with the preforming on my periphery wheel, I will bring it into shape during sanding on my 4 1/2" sanding disc.
Yeah, I’m a fan of the flat lap, muscle memory restricted me from adapting to the other, I tried but found my preference to be a flat lap.
Totally on board with the flat lap. The number of times I've bought rubs, then had to grind out the concave face.. grrrr
@theopalmills485 relax mate, you have runs on the board!!
Thank you for a very interesting video. The more I learn, the more I need find out. Much appreciated. Greetings from Dimboola, in Victoria.
Thank you for watching and your feedback.
Great video. My first attempts at cabbing, I was always left with a flat spot on top for the longest time
Thanks for your feedback. It may not always be a flat on the top but anywhere on the opal. It can be a bit tricky to begin with. I struggled. 🙂
Good tips, tks!
Thanks for watching, and your feedback.
beautiful finish and yes sementry
Thank you for your feedback.
Thank you Robert
As always..your videos are Gold
Thanks for watching. It's appreciated. 🙂
Brilliant video Rob!
Thank you for watching. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Once I started with shellac I can’t go back😁
Thank u Robert&Co for all your knowledge
Thank you once again for your feedback. I am glad you have found shellac to be a useful dopping agent.
Thank you very much for the tips! Being a beginner is a very precarious situation with every stone. Trying to develop the skill set needed incorporates a formula to maximize crt weight, best pattern and play of color presentation, and a inclusion avoidance and removal is difficult, to say the least.
Adding the other variables that each stone may have hidden inside makes it an order of magnitude more complex and difficult to work with. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thank you for watching and your feed back.
interesting and helpfull video, thank u mate!
Thank you for watching.
Great video, Robert. I find myself improving over the time since I have started. I am no where near the level of skill that you have, of course, but I will get there.
I am using a dremel. it is probably harder to get good results on bigger stones, but even that may be possible with time.
Maybe you can do a tutorial about facing opals properly when cutting.
thanks.
Thank you for watching and your feedback. I guess if I didn't have access to bigger machines I would adapt to using smaller machines. I am glad to hear you recognise you are improving. It always good to go back and look at your first stones. They are always a good indicator of how you are improving.
Dremel cabbing is far more difficult with a dremel than with wheels, so if you're getting anywhere near symmetrical cabochons then give yourself a pat on the back. I use a dremel too pending my machine build and find that once the stone is on the dop stick it's easier to keep the dremel still and work the stone on it as you would with wheels rather than working the dremel on the stone, If that makes sense?
Of course more difficult with bigger stones but still doable. Only a very small part of an opal is actually in contact with any wheel or abrasive really so nova points are fiddly but effective.
Haha, I spend waaay too much time trying to make my cabs symmetric.
Templates help, but they don’t help with dome symmetry.
I’m good with ovals and cushion cuts. Round is still a challenge.
Thank you for your feedback. Don't worry, that time spent trying to get it right, will pay off.
I have my failures, if I'm tired or in a rush, I don't always get it right. A quick review of stones the next day often reveals my mistakes. 🙂
Ok having watched now, i have a very different setup and don't intend on getting a cab machine... well see what the future holds, but from the beginning i thought that a convex cutting surface was putting too many variables into the technique. Perfectly happy with my dremel and paper system now. . Oh and is all enclosed now, I'm back in business!
I think the system you are using is very good, no need to change anything. For me, my 2 speed sander is so important. I dread the day it stops working. (might need to consider having it rewound). If you don't have access to diamond discs or wheels, a coarse grade of paper will quickly bring opal into shape and finer grades will give it that lustre you need before polishing. Keep up the good work Dr Fill of encouraging people to recycle. It doesn't matter what your machine looks like as long as you get the results.
@diverseopalproducts the sander I use is literally the cheapest one you can find at bunnings! Yet I love it. I've already replaced it once- don't think you can blame the machine, I don't think it was ever designed to be used wet. It became an electrical shock hazard. You will now that my new setup has a sturdy base that is angled downwards, with water moving to a sponge that is pressed against the sand paper. That way the system is kept moist but the motor theoretically will not catastrophically fail. That little motor is connected too a potentiometer, so you can select any speed you like.
@@drfill9210 The standard for a lot of opal cutters was a dental lathe because of the quietness and speed but the price was prohibitive for most part timers. So, I bought 10 x Ryobi 150mm bench grinders, removed the wheels and guards. Bought 4 1/2" aluminium bar, turned up discs on my lathe, put a 12mm thread in the disc, rubber on the face and sold them as budget sanders. They all went to good homes.
To overcome potential water issues put a tight fitting, on the shaft, oversize rubber washer, about 40mm to act as a water slinger, to keep the water away from your bearings. Yes, turn on and off at the plug not the machine if working with water.
@@diverseopalproducts nice tip! I have the unit I replaced still. I'll take it apart and have a look at the bearings etc and practice with that first. The switch cover broke on the other unit, but I never thought to not use the switch!
I'm setting up an old bench grinder as a backup, still has the original stone wheel. Converts an opal to powder in about 15 seconds. I actually grabbed some dopping wax ands pushed that through the stone to soften the ride. I don't have a lathe... I barely use the grinder anyway.
I don't even need to see the vid- NO THEY ARE NOT! I just stop before i turn the whole bloody thing to powder... (ok watching now)
I guess you watched the video, thank you. 😊