@@ExoticCarDIYhow much this job actually take. My after market warranty said 5 hours, dealer said 13. After complaining and initiating a shop change with my warranty they reduced it to 7 hours. (Plus 8 hours for timing cover leak reseal) 2 questions. Does it actually take this long (7 hours) and is the dealer skimping corners by offering to do the job at 7 hours instead of the initial 13?
@@multiblade04 couple things. 1 took me about 4 hours and much of that was trying to figure out how to do it . If I did it again, it would take less time 2 dealers exist for one reason, to make profit. They will always overestimate a job... They also plan the rate based on the slowest but still proficient tech. 3. I don't know which method they used, sub frame out, engine out, steering rack out or my method... So I can't speak to that.
@@ExoticCarDIYdo you know what is the proper method by the book to replace the mounts (sub frame out, engine out, steering rack out etc) ? And how long that method might take?
@@ExoticCarDIY Got told from dealers its 1.2 litres of oil for the dif but you mentioned 5.5 i thought its for the rear diff that you changed didn’t know theres on front …. So is it 5.5 litters on front and probably 1.2 on the back or im i just confused….
Absolutely thank you! I have the issue with my engine mounts at the moment in a 2015 CLS 63S. They make a massive noise while starting. I will give it a chance to change it myself
I changed 2 motor on my w212 e63. It was me and my mechanic both working on the car. The fact that you did that by yourself somehow, I have no words. Barely got that shit In with 2 people lmao.
Haha, don't want to have to do that again LOL. Few people offered a tip of removing the power steering from the subframe, this might make it considerably easier, although you still have to lower the subframe, you don't have to lower it as much
Bro you are super dedicated! True enthusiast! I had anxiety watching the scope of this project keep creepin. Thanks so much! Oh and when you said the car gives you the tools... Priceless. BTW why don't you wear gloves? Just curious lol
Thanks buddy. I used to always wear gloves, but halfway through every project they get too dirty and then I'd rip them off by the end of the project it didn't matter... now I have dirty hands and dirty gloves LOL
@Exotic Car DIY When I had my 2014 E63 AMGs I had to change engine AND transmission mounts every 20k miles. Sometimes I feel like Mercedes intentionally bull shits with us and puts softer mounts. Some people says it's because of a smooth ride but i say bs. Also look out for the front left lower control arm that was replaced 3 times in 59k miles.
I'm not going to say I know for sure, but what I do know is the rubber had deteriorated inside those mounts, likely due to heat? It's almost like they use the same Mount design as they did from a naturally aspirated car and they're just not cut out to be that close to the downpipes. Yeah if you check out my "everything that's wrong with my new E63" video, I actually address the left cross strut bushing and show how it can be fixed for free.
It's just a Mercedes thing. It's not anything new, and not AMG specific. Every Mercedes I've ever bought (used) always needed motor mounts, and they don't last long. I have no idea why.
There is a discrepancy in just the definitions. True downpipe is the exhaust from the turbo to the mid section or whatever. On the Mercedes, it's split into two pieces: the bridge pipe, and then the downpipe with the cat. Most of the downpipes you see listed for these are just that second section, essentially just a cat replacement. They are easy to get off and shouldn't be charged more than an hour of Labor in my opinion. The bridge pipe however is a different story, I think you probably do have to remove the motor? I kind of wish I had more time when I was doing the mounts to see if it was possible to do the bridge pipes as well, it'd be close but they are really tight in there
@ExoticCarDiy - kenny at the 3:20 ish mark you briefly mention the upstream and downstream O2 sensor removal and what a challenge is its to remove the connectors. Do you think its possible to remove the upstream O2 sensor connectors WITHOUT lowering the downpipes/exhaust? I've got a bank 2, upstream sensor 1 electrical fault code which I assume means its bad and I need to replace... i bought a new O2 sensor but for the life of me cannot figure out how to get to the connector as the space is limited from the top and from under the car you can barely get to it????
Great vid and tips. Your patients is 1000%. Is there a way to visually inspect the motor motor mounts to determine if replacement is required? What are your thoughts on aftermarket upgraded motor mounts if even available?
They are hydraulically dampend motor mounts, typically when they break they leak, you can definitely see my driver side has spewed all over the place. Not sure if anybody is actually produced an aftermarket unit for the m157, my understanding of several in the works. I've driven in cars with poly or solid motor mounts and it is not fun, every motor home and vibration gets transmitted through the entire car. E63 is a luxury high performance sedan, I like the quiet smoothness. So any aftermarket unit would have to be held to that standard for my personal taste
All right firs thing is first this video helped me a lot I just completed 2015 GL550 Before you start doing this you must have some experience to perform this job. All I can say it’s much easier on GL550 bottom two bolts you access from the bottom no problem You have top 18mm e torx bolt that bolt is mother fucker is tight I’m 6 3” 200lb I had issue getting it off you just don’t have good leverage. Place jack under oil pan lift engine up before lifting engine up I took off air filters just to have more clearance when you lifting engine up. Keep in mind shield going over engine mount you have access to two 10mm etorx bolts take them out but you won’t be able to take shield out just move it up or down you won’t have issue taking mount out. Good luck any questions just ask me. 👍🏻
Extremely heplful! Thanks. I bought a 2014 CLS 63S Shooting Brake very recently and have been just gobbling up all of your E63 stuff. Thanks very much.
Thank you brother for your video, It was absolutely helpfull! I changed the engine mount myself from the driver side. Speaking about O2 sensors, I just took it out of the exhaust bcz unplugin it is almost impossible.
Visually, they will have the dampening fluid oozing out of them and actually leaking almost like oil You'll generally feel increased vibrations, and harmonic engine transferred into the chassis from the motor. But usually the most obvious, is an audible clunk during hard accelerations, or shifts.
@Exotic Car DIY I just bought one from a BMW mechanic. My motor mounts are making the oil panel sit on top of a panel (not sure exactly what the panel is, still researching) and it vibrates the car at idle 😅
The easiest way might be to just remove one of those bolts, take it to a hardware store and match the thread. Maybe even buying a threaded rod with a nut to lower it to your desired height.
Ahh this brings back great times. I did mine about 6 months ago. I did so much cussing at the Mercedes engineers. You have a manual? I winged my whole project laying on my back in the driveway with my son. My driver's side mount was in two pieces. No rubber at all holding it. I started doing the passenger but I seen what & all was involved doing that side. I then looked at the condition of the mount & it looked fine. I think the driver's side is the one that gets demolished from all the torque. What condition was your passenger side once you got it out? Did yours still look & feel good? Also I'm here on your channel to look at your videos to see if you have done new headlight lenses. All of my stuff just came in to do them so I'm scoping out videos. Oh and my left front turn signal was randomly working for a few days & then completely doesn't work now. I got a new control module I think they call it to fix that. But I also have to get someone to code it to the car too. Ugh why Mercedes why???
Yeah I think the heat weekends both, but the torque of the engine will destroy the driver side before the passenger. My driver side was completely shot, but the passenger was not a whole lot better, the rubber was all cracked inside of it as well although it did not look like it had popped the fluid yet? Somewhere in my video I inspect both of them. I have a copy of the Wis (eBay) It's tricky to navigate, but it will give you some good pointers. Yeah you may have to have it code the headlight module, however if it came off the exact same type of car with the exact same options there's a good chance that it'll work. I bought the Benz ninja dealer tool type setup, it's been one of the most beneficial tools at keeping a dealer free experience. And when I'm done with it, I'm sure I can sell it for almost what I paid.
@@ExoticCarDIY Benz ninja tool huh? I'm going to have to check into that. The module I bought is brand new & has never been coded to any car. I'm replacing both of my headlight lenses too. Does any of your videos show how to drop the front bumper? I seen a video for preface lift E63. I'd imagine it's not much different other than that piece of bumper that is in between the headlights. Where the sensor wire plugs & etc might be in different spot. 🤷
awesome video, quick question is there another mount out there that might last longer than the Mercedes version, or has Mercedes upgraded the current version?
Question...I know for my E55 they use Black Series motor mounts as an upgrade...any idea if theres some sort of option like that for the W212? (Or maybe thats a dumb question because if there was you would have done it?)
There are several companies that say they are developing aftermarket mounts, but at the time of the filming, none had be released. The stock mounts are very good, very smooth, but the bear Heat kills them young. Better heat shield wild be nice
@Exotic car DiY. Hi Buddy, good knowledge about the E63 W212r. I've am E63 2013 . I tuned it to Stage-2 with Pops n bangs producing 720BHP and 950NM . I heard that these 63 models are v likely to damage the Connecting rods bending them when tuned and about the oil leak, Timing chain problem etc. Please revert asap.
Two parts to your question. First, the m157 is a pretty robust engine however early in 157's (12-13)did have issues with timing chains. If yours has the older timing chain, it is prone to stretching, and the tensioners will sometimes allow the chain to rattle on startup. Timing chain is rather expensive to fix, the tensioners are like a hundred bucks if you do DIY. There's very mixed opinions about how tuning affects these, obviously a lot of people are very different experiences, and even among tunes, there's a wide spectrum of power levels. Some people have great trouble free experiences, and yes, it is true people either have bent rods or scored cylinder walls. Is it the tune that hurts these engines? Hard to say, but I will say that I've never seen a bone stock engine with these issues. There is a recent thread on in the world, where a user ended up with several bit rods initially he blamed it on the tune but then found out that it was a stuck injector that ended up melting the Pistons. So, it wasn't necessarily the extra power that did it, it was fuel injector failure, but that leads the question, did the tune cause the fuel injector to fail? Possibly Anyway, these are expensive motors, and even in stock form they make plenty of power, I've chosen not to tune my red e63, still gives me plenty of smiles even if it only has stock level 577 horsepower
It's pretty tight fit in there, I have not looked at the WIS yet, but I would imagine it can come out the front. Might help to lower part of the steering rack? I'm out of town right now, but I'll take a peek at WIS when I get back. If you haven't already, you can buy a Mercedes Wis from eBay for like 8 bucks
Definitely would have been, I really wish I would have tried to pull a bridge pipe off wall I had the motor on attached. Based on what I saw, I think it would have been doable to do the bridge pipes
@@ExoticCarDIY once you do bridge pipes you obviously have to do downpipes and midpipes. Sound would be amazing but performance would be night and day for sure. Great work and love the vids keep them coming 👍🏼
Yeah it sucks, although another person found a way that is pretty clever. They just built a fitting to install in the drain plug and pumped it back up through the drain
Oh dang, you just pay somebody to do it? Sorry! Well, in my defense I didn't mention that I was going to make this video last week on my cam sensor video
Two months ago I posted comment saying good luck doing this with out lift. Well guess what I have bad engine mount on my 2015 GL550 fu*k my life 😅. I think I will only do driver side 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@ExoticCarDIY not only that, the whole process is a bastard, I have a w222 S550 4matic that needs new mounts near future, I really dont look forward to doing it nor paying a shop 😅
As usual great video…what a nightmare changing them motor mounts they look impossible to be changed
Awesome video. Now I can show the dealership so they know how to do it without the 72hrs labor charge.
I know right? I have a buddy that is a tech, and I always am amazed when I ask him how much his dealer charges for all the stuff.
@@ExoticCarDIYhow much this job actually take. My after market warranty said 5 hours, dealer said 13. After complaining and initiating a shop change with my warranty they reduced it to 7 hours. (Plus 8 hours for timing cover leak reseal)
2 questions. Does it actually take this long (7 hours) and is the dealer skimping corners by offering to do the job at 7 hours instead of the initial 13?
@@multiblade04 couple things.
1 took me about 4 hours and much of that was trying to figure out how to do it . If I did it again, it would take less time
2 dealers exist for one reason, to make profit. They will always overestimate a job... They also plan the rate based on the slowest but still proficient tech.
3. I don't know which method they used, sub frame out, engine out, steering rack out or my method... So I can't speak to that.
@@ExoticCarDIYdo you know what is the proper method by the book to replace the mounts (sub frame out, engine out, steering rack out etc) ? And how long that method might take?
@@ExoticCarDIY you know by chance? Any help is appreciated! I liked and subscribed to return the favour.
I admire your patience and calmness 🙈. 👍
Haha, once your in there, your kinda committed to figure it out and finish it 😊 thank you
Another awesome video man. I've been watching all of your e63 videos and making notes to reference when I pick one up 🤝
Awesome thank you!
same here haha : D
@@ExoticCarDIY Got told from dealers its 1.2 litres of oil for the dif but you mentioned 5.5 i thought its for the rear diff that you changed didn’t know theres on front …. So is it 5.5 litters on front and probably 1.2 on the back or im i just confused….
Makes me glad I have the M276 V6 with rear wheel drive only. Nice tutorial on removing the forward exhaust and cats.
I just wanted to give the video a quick like. I will be watching it on Tuesday (my day off)
Can you show me all that one more time! What a job that was. Thanks again for sharing, have a great day.
Absolutely thank you! I have the issue with my engine mounts at the moment in a 2015 CLS 63S. They make a massive noise while starting. I will give it a chance to change it myself
I changed 2 motor on my w212 e63. It was me and my mechanic both working on the car. The fact that you did that by yourself somehow, I have no words. Barely got that shit In with 2 people lmao.
Haha, don't want to have to do that again LOL.
Few people offered a tip of removing the power steering from the subframe, this might make it considerably easier, although you still have to lower the subframe, you don't have to lower it as much
Bro you are super dedicated! True enthusiast! I had anxiety watching the scope of this project keep creepin. Thanks so much! Oh and when you said the car gives you the tools... Priceless. BTW why don't you wear gloves? Just curious lol
Thanks buddy.
I used to always wear gloves, but halfway through every project they get too dirty and then I'd rip them off by the end of the project it didn't matter... now I have dirty hands and dirty gloves LOL
@Exotic Car DIY When I had my 2014 E63 AMGs I had to change engine AND transmission mounts every 20k miles. Sometimes I feel like Mercedes intentionally bull shits with us and puts softer mounts. Some people says it's because of a smooth ride but i say bs. Also look out for the front left lower control arm that was replaced 3 times in 59k miles.
I'm not going to say I know for sure, but what I do know is the rubber had deteriorated inside those mounts, likely due to heat? It's almost like they use the same Mount design as they did from a naturally aspirated car and they're just not cut out to be that close to the downpipes.
Yeah if you check out my "everything that's wrong with my new E63" video, I actually address the left cross strut bushing and show how it can be fixed for free.
It's just a Mercedes thing. It's not anything new, and not AMG specific. Every Mercedes I've ever bought (used) always needed motor mounts, and they don't last long. I have no idea why.
Awesome video. Kudos for the details and showing us all how it's done.
Glad you liked it!
@@ExoticCarDIY If open to other video ideas - I have yet to find one showing the air oil separator replacement process on the M177.
Ong, I'm sooo happy you have this car
I'm shocked how easy the down pipes came out. I have a 2014 E550 4matic and was told they have to drop the motor to install down pipes?
There is a discrepancy in just the definitions. True downpipe is the exhaust from the turbo to the mid section or whatever. On the Mercedes, it's split into two pieces: the bridge pipe, and then the downpipe with the cat.
Most of the downpipes you see listed for these are just that second section, essentially just a cat replacement. They are easy to get off and shouldn't be charged more than an hour of Labor in my opinion. The bridge pipe however is a different story, I think you probably do have to remove the motor?
I kind of wish I had more time when I was doing the mounts to see if it was possible to do the bridge pipes as well, it'd be close but they are really tight in there
@@ExoticCarDIY Appreciate it. I'll look into installing down pipes next year. Hopefully find someone who can do it.
This video saved me $1600 much appreciated brother
Sweet, good job buddy
@ExoticCarDiy - kenny at the 3:20 ish mark you briefly mention the upstream and downstream O2 sensor removal and what a challenge is its to remove the connectors. Do you think its possible to remove the upstream O2 sensor connectors WITHOUT lowering the downpipes/exhaust?
I've got a bank 2, upstream sensor 1 electrical fault code which I assume means its bad and I need to replace... i bought a new O2 sensor but for the life of me cannot figure out how to get to the connector as the space is limited from the top and from under the car you can barely get to it????
Great vid and tips. Your patients is 1000%.
Is there a way to visually inspect the motor motor mounts to determine if replacement is required?
What are your thoughts on aftermarket upgraded motor mounts if even available?
They are hydraulically dampend motor mounts, typically when they break they leak, you can definitely see my driver side has spewed all over the place.
Not sure if anybody is actually produced an aftermarket unit for the m157, my understanding of several in the works. I've driven in cars with poly or solid motor mounts and it is not fun, every motor home and vibration gets transmitted through the entire car. E63 is a luxury high performance sedan, I like the quiet smoothness. So any aftermarket unit would have to be held to that standard for my personal taste
Kudos
Thank you for the info. Agree with the E63 should still maintain a factory feel
Great job buddy! 👏
And nightmare compared to rwd with that "axle dance".
Thanks for sharing. Very informative 🙂👍
All right firs thing is first this video helped me a lot
I just completed 2015 GL550
Before you start doing this you must have some experience to perform this job. All I can say it’s much easier on GL550 bottom two bolts you access from the bottom no problem
You have top 18mm e torx bolt that bolt is mother fucker is tight I’m 6 3” 200lb I had issue getting it off you just don’t have good leverage. Place jack under oil pan lift engine up before lifting engine up I took off air filters just to have more clearance when you lifting engine up.
Keep in mind shield going over engine mount you have access to two 10mm etorx bolts take them out but you won’t be able to take shield out just move it up or down you won’t have issue taking mount out.
Good luck any questions just ask me. 👍🏻
Extremely heplful! Thanks. I bought a 2014 CLS 63S Shooting Brake very recently and have been just gobbling up all of your E63 stuff. Thanks very much.
Now that's a rare car, enjoy and thanks for watching!
You thing this job would be possible on a 2013 RWD with just the factory subframe bolts lowered? Since there are no front axles to contend with
Yes, that axle carrier is what makes it so hard on the AWD IMO
I commend you, brother. 2014 e550. These things are such a pain to work on
Awesome work, this would be a nightmare working on jackstand.
Thank you brother for your video, It was absolutely helpfull! I changed the engine mount myself from the driver side. Speaking about O2 sensors, I just took it out of the exhaust bcz unplugin it is almost impossible.
Wow the Surgeon 2 sequel is even better
Something about you e63 I love the color I have a blue grey /flint grey but the red is awesome
Ever have any issues with the rear air suspension on your last w212?
No
Hey what were the symptoms for your car leading to change the mounts. Pls let me know
Visually, they will have the dampening fluid oozing out of them and actually leaking almost like oil
You'll generally feel increased vibrations, and harmonic engine transferred into the chassis from the motor.
But usually the most obvious, is an audible clunk during hard accelerations, or shifts.
@Exotic Car DIY I just bought one from a BMW mechanic. My motor mounts are making the oil panel sit on top of a panel (not sure exactly what the panel is, still researching) and it vibrates the car at idle 😅
Any idea how long it takes for a X166 GL 63 AMG?
Not sure, sorry man
How can you lower the subframe without those specific bolts from the mercedes? Because I don't have those those bolts laying around lol
The easiest way might be to just remove one of those bolts, take it to a hardware store and match the thread. Maybe even buying a threaded rod with a nut to lower it to your desired height.
Thank you for your video ❤, one question, did you also detached the left cv shaft to lower the subframe?
Yes I did
Ahh this brings back great times. I did mine about 6 months ago. I did so much cussing at the Mercedes engineers. You have a manual? I winged my whole project laying on my back in the driveway with my son. My driver's side mount was in two pieces. No rubber at all holding it. I started doing the passenger but I seen what & all was involved doing that side. I then looked at the condition of the mount & it looked fine. I think the driver's side is the one that gets demolished from all the torque. What condition was your passenger side once you got it out? Did yours still look & feel good? Also I'm here on your channel to look at your videos to see if you have done new headlight lenses. All of my stuff just came in to do them so I'm scoping out videos. Oh and my left front turn signal was randomly working for a few days & then completely doesn't work now. I got a new control module I think they call it to fix that. But I also have to get someone to code it to the car too. Ugh why Mercedes why???
Yeah I think the heat weekends both, but the torque of the engine will destroy the driver side before the passenger. My driver side was completely shot, but the passenger was not a whole lot better, the rubber was all cracked inside of it as well although it did not look like it had popped the fluid yet? Somewhere in my video I inspect both of them.
I have a copy of the Wis (eBay) It's tricky to navigate, but it will give you some good pointers.
Yeah you may have to have it code the headlight module, however if it came off the exact same type of car with the exact same options there's a good chance that it'll work.
I bought the Benz ninja dealer tool type setup, it's been one of the most beneficial tools at keeping a dealer free experience. And when I'm done with it, I'm sure I can sell it for almost what I paid.
@@ExoticCarDIY Benz ninja tool huh? I'm going to have to check into that. The module I bought is brand new & has never been coded to any car. I'm replacing both of my headlight lenses too. Does any of your videos show how to drop the front bumper? I seen a video for preface lift E63. I'd imagine it's not much different other than that piece of bumper that is in between the headlights. Where the sensor wire plugs & etc might be in different spot. 🤷
@@MercedesE63S-AMG yes, I have a video for the front bumper removal, it's scheduled to come out in 2 weeks from now
Hey man Help! is it normal for oil temperature to rise to 100-103 degrees Celsius? 2014 W212 E63s. thanks in advance
Yes, that's normal. Sitting in traffic it may go higher, but generally always settles back down to 100c after some air flow
@@ExoticCarDIY thanks lot man
Are these the same engine mounts of a 2014 CLS63 AMG 4matic ?
awesome video, quick question is there another mount out there that might last longer than the Mercedes version, or has Mercedes upgraded the current version?
I think so? I saw a post on MBworld, might be worth looking into
Do you have the part numbers for the control arm bolts you used to hang the subframe , this job looks like it sucks but doesn’t look to bad
They were from my 2004 e55, likely 308765-014012 . used it would be dirt cheap, new they're showing like 20 bucks each LOL
Question...I know for my E55 they use Black Series motor mounts as an upgrade...any idea if theres some sort of option like that for the W212? (Or maybe thats a dumb question because if there was you would have done it?)
There are several companies that say they are developing aftermarket mounts, but at the time of the filming, none had be released.
The stock mounts are very good, very smooth, but the bear
Heat kills them young. Better heat shield wild be nice
@Exotic car DiY. Hi Buddy, good knowledge about the E63 W212r. I've am E63 2013 . I tuned it to Stage-2 with Pops n bangs producing 720BHP and 950NM . I heard that these 63 models are v likely to damage the Connecting rods bending them when tuned and about the oil leak, Timing chain problem etc. Please revert asap.
Two parts to your question. First, the m157 is a pretty robust engine however early in 157's (12-13)did have issues with timing chains. If yours has the older timing chain, it is prone to stretching, and the tensioners will sometimes allow the chain to rattle on startup.
Timing chain is rather expensive to fix, the tensioners are like a hundred bucks if you do DIY.
There's very mixed opinions about how tuning affects these, obviously a lot of people are very different experiences, and even among tunes, there's a wide spectrum of power levels. Some people have great trouble free experiences, and yes, it is true people either have bent rods or scored cylinder walls.
Is it the tune that hurts these engines? Hard to say, but I will say that I've never seen a bone stock engine with these issues.
There is a recent thread on in the world, where a user ended up with several bit rods initially he blamed it on the tune but then found out that it was a stuck injector that ended up melting the Pistons. So, it wasn't necessarily the extra power that did it, it was fuel injector failure, but that leads the question, did the tune cause the fuel injector to fail? Possibly
Anyway, these are expensive motors, and even in stock form they make plenty of power, I've chosen not to tune my red e63, still gives me plenty of smiles even if it only has stock level 577 horsepower
Any advice on replacing the alternator on m157?
It's pretty tight fit in there, I have not looked at the WIS yet, but I would imagine it can come out the front. Might help to lower part of the steering rack? I'm out of town right now, but I'll take a peek at WIS when I get back. If you haven't already, you can buy a Mercedes Wis from eBay for like 8 bucks
Was the thud on a down shift?
You could literally hear thuds when shifting, accelerating, downshifting.,. Yes
@@ExoticCarDIY Collected mine tomorrow. Silver Wagon with night pack. 😍
@@MrDumper123 nice!
Do you jack up the engine from the oil pan?
Yes, I made sure to spread it the weight over a larger area of it
If positive, could you share the parts numbers?
👍🏻👍🏻 great video
What spec was the front diff fluid? I read that it's not the same as the rear.
Mercedes 239.72 spec oil. thats 75w85 synthetic, just make sure it meets that rating. pn A0019898803
@@ExoticCarDIY thanks Kenny!
Wish I had access to a lift and a buddy. Dkrs and shops tell me 2200 to do the two mounts and 600 fluid.
Oooff. This job is doable on the ground... It sucks either way, but if rather have that money for something else
This is why i didn't want to do my S-Class. PITA level of effort, but very cool.
Would have been the perfect time to do a FULL Weistec exhaust ❤
Definitely would have been, I really wish I would have tried to pull a bridge pipe off wall I had the motor on attached. Based on what I saw, I think it would have been doable to do the bridge pipes
@@ExoticCarDIY once you do bridge pipes you obviously have to do downpipes and midpipes. Sound would be amazing but performance would be night and day for sure. Great work and love the vids keep them coming 👍🏼
Hi. Is the diff oil fore the rear same as the front
I think it's lighter than the rear. I posted the same question, hopefully he responds.
@@AnontheGOAT if you get any info please let me know
@@abuteezibnkhara5760 will do. If he doesn’t reply, I’ll just ask on mbworld.
Mercedes 239.72 spec oil. thats 75w85 synthetic, just make sure it meets that rating. pn A0019898803
@@ExoticCarDIY thank you very match
Crazy that to service the front diff you need to pull the axle.
Yeah it sucks, although another person found a way that is pretty clever. They just built a fitting to install in the drain plug and pumped it back up through the drain
Quality content 👍
It’s crazy I saw this car on cargurus bro I’m in Houston
I should have had you check it out first lol
dude. you are amazing!
Haha, or really stubborn lol
I call it determined
Impressive!!!
Bruh I wish you posted this a week ago
Oh dang, you just pay somebody to do it? Sorry! Well, in my defense I didn't mention that I was going to make this video last week on my cam sensor video
Two months ago I posted comment saying good luck doing this with out lift. Well guess what I have bad engine mount on my 2015 GL550 fu*k my life 😅. I think I will only do driver side 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
And all likelihood, doing the driver side will fix any issue you have. And it's so much easier than doing the passenger
Damn, what a bastard install 😄
Yup lol. Those o2 sensors.... Ughuh
@ExoticCarDIY not only that, the whole process is a bastard, I have a w222 S550 4matic that needs new mounts near future, I really dont look forward to doing it nor paying a shop 😅
easy peazy
Haha, well sorta. Better then dropping the motor or subframe... And labor's cheap lol
Same shit you need to done in w212 e350 cdi ? Or just
e63 or awd e class ?
Good luck doing this with out lift 🥸