Had 2016 Honda come in today with a no start I looked at the car and the dash was all to pieces wires everywhere so I refused to do the repairs. I told my boss this is a setup I'm not falling for it I told him to fix it or give it to the young kid to fix but I'm not messing with it
I can totally understand buying tools for the job, but mechanics having to buy 10-15k worth of scan tools is nonsense...shops should be on the hook for that stuff like they are for AC machines, lifts, etc. appreciate the upload, Jimmy 👍
Average Joe the shops does provide scan tools but with any shop tool that everyone uses they get broken messed up don't half work because they hire and fire so many people and some of them don't know how to use them but that don't stop them that's why I own my tools I know when I need them they will work
Just out of curiosity, why would a torn boot on the coil be related to the maf? I'm a 3 year technician and if that were me I would have thought maybe a vacuum leak would be causing a misfire? please explain thanks!
A torn boot or a misreading/non reading MAF are not related. I think someone else has been troubleshooting this vehicle and unplugged the MAF, that's my guess. In that situation you can always save codes and then clear them, see what comes back. At idle a MAF should read roughly the same as engine displacement. If vacuum leak exists total fuel trim should improve as more throttle is applied.
The coil issue and MAF issue are unrelated. Someone had been working on this vehicle and installed a bunch of parts, possibly setting the code. But more likely the restricted exhaust I picked up on after repairing the misfire was the cause. If air can’t get out, air can’t get in. So the computer sees throttle input and vehicle speed rise, but no airflow increase and sets that code. Thanks Mason!
I am having problems with my 2006 Nissan Murano, Code P2122, P2138 and P0643, Changed Pedal, Changed Trottle body and still car won't accelerate. Once TPS or Pedal changed car drives for a while like 1km and it goes to limp mode with Slip light and VDC displaying a check engine light, when I disconnect the pedal cable the car get high acceleration can drive . But it's slow. please any suggestions for possible solutions?
I would look very closely for broken or rubbed thru wires touching metal, like on a bracket someplace. I sometimes have to replace connectors with throttle bodies for wires broken internally. A light tug on the insulation usually shows up since a good wire is strong, but one that's broken inside easily breaks. Sadly I've also seen defective throttle bodies and gas pedals that don't more the sensor if it isn't installed correctly under the lever. Hope this helps.
Is that the Snap on Triton? I think they purposely dont want it wireless to make it faster??? Maybe 🤔 I am not sure. My work has a Verus Edge it has the fancy Cart with dock and flat screen and its also wireless and it is a nice system but it is Sloooooow and glitchy! Im am glad I am not the one that dished kind of money out for it! From what I have seen I would much rather have the triton or a Launch or Autel for that matter
Had 2016 Honda come in today with a no start I looked at the car and the dash was all to pieces wires everywhere so I refused to do the repairs. I told my boss this is a setup I'm not falling for it I told him to fix it or give it to the young kid to fix but I'm not messing with it
Sounds like someone messed with some wiring trying to fix it or steal it themselves, haha.
Don't blame you a bit!
I can totally understand buying tools for the job, but mechanics having to buy 10-15k worth of scan tools is nonsense...shops should be on the hook for that stuff like they are for AC machines, lifts, etc. appreciate the upload, Jimmy 👍
Totally agree. Only thing I like though is having my own so I'm not locked down. If I leave my scanners go with me. ;)
Thanks Joe!
Average Joe the shops does provide scan tools but with any shop tool that everyone uses they get broken messed up don't half work because they hire and fire so many people and some of them don't know how to use them but that don't stop them that's why I own my tools I know when I need them they will work
I like how your high dollar scan tool is the one with the cord 🤣
lol, kills me because of that. But it does work well otherwise. Just too expensive.
Just out of curiosity, why would a torn boot on the coil be related to the maf? I'm a 3 year technician and if that were me I would have thought maybe a vacuum leak would be causing a misfire? please explain thanks!
Or maybe I got things confused a bit but either way I appreciate the knowledge!
A torn boot or a misreading/non reading MAF are not related. I think someone else has been troubleshooting this vehicle and unplugged the MAF, that's my guess. In that situation you can always save codes and then clear them, see what comes back. At idle a MAF should read roughly the same as engine displacement. If vacuum leak exists total fuel trim should improve as more throttle is applied.
The coil issue and MAF issue are unrelated. Someone had been working on this vehicle and installed a bunch of parts, possibly setting the code. But more likely the restricted exhaust I picked up on after repairing the misfire was the cause.
If air can’t get out, air can’t get in. So the computer sees throttle input and vehicle speed rise, but no airflow increase and sets that code.
Thanks Mason!
Good informative video, what did you have to do, to clear up that third rear cat?
We ended up replacing all the cats on this car.
did you ever fix it? if not, replace the ignition coils, sparkplugs, that maf sensor.
Yeah, repaired in a Day in The Shop not long after.
I am having problems with my 2006 Nissan Murano, Code P2122, P2138 and P0643, Changed Pedal, Changed Trottle body and still car won't accelerate. Once TPS or Pedal changed car drives for a while like 1km and it goes to limp mode with Slip light and VDC displaying a check engine light, when I disconnect the pedal cable the car get high acceleration can drive . But it's slow. please any suggestions for possible solutions?
I would look very closely for broken or rubbed thru wires touching metal, like on a bracket someplace. I sometimes have to replace connectors with throttle bodies for wires broken internally. A light tug on the insulation usually shows up since a good wire is strong, but one that's broken inside easily breaks. Sadly I've also seen defective throttle bodies and gas pedals that don't more the sensor if it isn't installed correctly under the lever.
Hope this helps.
Is that the Snap on Triton? I think they purposely dont want it wireless to make it faster??? Maybe 🤔 I am not sure. My work has a Verus Edge it has the fancy Cart with dock and flat screen and its also wireless and it is a nice system but it is Sloooooow and glitchy! Im am glad I am not the one that dished kind of money out for it! From what I have seen I would much rather have the triton or a Launch or Autel for that matter
This is. the Modis Edge Patrick. I think they call it Triton now, oddly named after the Ford 3 valve debacle. lol
could it be a bad alternator
Yes, if a alternator puts out measurable AC voltage the rectifier is bad and it can cause interference in the modules.
well you don't need a litter box for that new cat lol
LOL, that is true!
Needs DENSO A/F sensor bank 2 top sensor
Probably right!