Perfect Daily Driver 11- Timing Is Everything
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- There's nothing left but detail work left on our 360 build. Getting our distributor set up is one of the major keys to making this combination work. Here's what we're doing with it.
I got super scared you were going to leave out vacuum advance - glad you went over it 🤙
Thanks for fighting the good fight.
Thunderhead289 @ UA-cam
Your teaching and break down is very calming to me 🔥 vid
Dropped in an FBO limiter plate, used the 18° slots and 16° initial. Runs perfect, no welding.
hey UT...when i was 18 in the army down in texas ,i had a brown 318 cuda .did a bunch of top end races . the engine would start to break up around 4500 rpm unless it had new plugs in it .finally figured out total timing was almost 50 degrees with base at 14 degrees ! that 318 took a beating ! 340 cam,holley street dominator with a 600 holley ,and cyclone headers.ran high 14.90 at 95 mph with 2.73 gears. 130 top end. welded the slot like you said ,no more killing plugs . that was back in 1978 . still have the car.
Uncle T. is incredibly generous with his sharing of automotive knowledge. Can’t thank you enough!
you dont put full advance in a street car, are you crazy?
I so wish UT had been my instructor at LA Trade Tech instead of the Eastern European guy droning on reading from the text book about all the different types of washers and how to sharpen a screwdriver. UT has my complete attention and makes the lesson clear and to the point. Thanks UT!!
Been a long time since I've seen those log exhaust manifolds. Also keeping the compression ratio down lessens valve seat recession too.
Mr. Gasket #923 spring kit. Cheap and it brings a standard auto distributor all in by 1100rpm. Perfect for mild builds. MoPar specific of course, they made them for everything back in the day. You'll have to check to see what's available for the other makes.
Learning lots here. Interesting with the high velocity intake manifold and lean-ish mixture you are also using wide plug gaps.
Lean burn wants a big gap.
Uncle Tony , you have sooo much knowledge to offer.. PLEASE STOP SMOKING, I hear you breathing gasping for air sometimes,
Wealth of information, as usual. Thanks for sharing.
Tony is a real world mopar equivelant to the zen and art of motorcycle repair guy
You are so Awesome ! Thank you for all your knowledge and talent
Had a 13l arm in the ranger. Took the heavy spring out and put a super light one in. What a difference. 36-38 degrees all in by 3000rpm verified by a timing light.
Old video but would love to hear a engine running down the road with the timing ur talking about. Not quit enough timing and then the timing u say is perfect 👌
Sweet timing video. Hope you and Kathy are doing well.
I learn so much from your explanations about performance wish you could come help me with my 69 nova I have a hard time getting all this information to sink in probably because I get to excited lol thanks for all your tips you let us know about! When you come to Maine let me know!
My parts cleaner dodge hub cap gas and a paint brush the wire wheel is my friend great videos 👍
This is funny about 10 minutes ago I was talkin about how I was gonna ask you if you could make a video on timing and then you uploaded one
IT'S ALL IN THE DETAILS BABY
Love this series, looking good.
Im learning alot from this series, thank u
That thing looks so nice
Perfect timing uncle Tony, needed something good to watch before I call it a night, 🤣unintentional pun
👽 thx 4 vid. Uncle Tony spread the love ..........................................................
Will you make a vid on the AC?
Thanks Tony
But when you got a bigger cam, isn't good to have a vacuum advance? I mean, when there is no cylinder pressure you got the timing advance, and when you open on the trotlhe, the pressure increases, and the timing gets back on normal
I'm helping a old friend. She converted a 1986 Ambulance, Ford Econoline 460BB
She converted it to a small motor home, pulling 3-4 horses up the high mountains of Washington state (hard climbing.
Pulling emissions, adding headers. Rest is tune up. gas economy, horses trailer and 460Bb don't go in same sentence. Any input will help, I been out of gas and into diesel for years now.
Advice on timing a 460? Bottom end torque (towing), gas mileage.
Plugs - wires - ignition coil - to light the fire better?
Uncle Tony do you own a synco graph
if you re going to keep the vaccum timing thing while making the mods, won t you have like 10° too much advance and will actually loose torque? or will the cylinder pressure be small enough and the fuel mixture so lean that it will take a way longer time to burn than under normal condition and make that extra advance just the right ammount?
If you'd dropped in a Mopar 361 instead of that 360 you'd be able to reach the distributor easier
Will you be running a wide band o2 and AFR gauge on this setup
Especially if you use a MSD distributor!!! It comes with the heaviest springs you can get and at 5k RPM it still isn't fully advanced!!!
I am so glad I'm not one of those guys and the comment sections unless someone's bad-mouthing the elderly
douching has its place
Uncle Tony, I want to know if there is any fact in what i was taught. When I was in tech I paid someone to recurve my distributor because I wanted to run at 15 degrees initial like the cam company recommended. The car was so much faster but i found I could get more with more initial timing and I wanted to limit the distributor even more.. So I talked to my teacher about it he he told me to stop advancing my initial and let the distributor have some advance or when you shift youll feel a slight bog from the timing when the rpm drops back down because it needs to retard a little. Does any of that make sense?
So you got to make a bracket for the throttle..hmm but your newest post your complaining about a pcv not hooked up.and aftermarket spark plug wires..
Im a little confused, why dont we just initially time this for ~ 20 degrees instead of welding it into a forced 20 degree start?
UNCLE KATHY IS FINALLY GETTING AIR CONDITIONING.
When I was a kid and my Dad was working on the trucks, he would hand me the parts. In front of me, a pail of gasoline and a brush. "When You give it back, I want it clean." He inspected everything and made certain it was right. I know, gas fumes are bad for you. Well, it was the 70's and we lived in the bush. This was the only way to clean the parts back then.Taught me to do things right,
Actually, that gas may not b so bad, compared to the nasty stuff in it now. U be fine
There was lead in the gas back then. Lead is very bad to have in your system
@@stuckinmygarage6220as lead?
Hey Uncle Tony, you and Steve Dulcich need to get together and build a car. You both have enough Mopar parts and knowledge. That would make a great video series.
Daniel Lawson yes!!!
What an great idea👍🏻
Two quirky guys....that would either work out really good or really bad lol
I would love this
Frigging sweet! It's 3:23am here in the UK, time for some Tea and Uncle Tony! 😊 👌🏻
Thanks for the crysler knowledge Uncle Tony just picked up a 69 Plymouth Satellite 383 4 Speed manual has the High Performance 383 didn't realize it till i got it home and really looked at everything and its all numbers matching car it's in rough shape going to do the right thing and restore it back to original spec always wanted one now I got many of hours of hard enjoyable work ahead of me but it will be worth it when its done
Hey UTG could you make a video of your distributor after you have welded the slots on it to see how you do it?
This is by far the most exciting build. We’ve been bombarded with “performance” builds for so long, we’ve forgotten about the meat and potatoes of “daily performance”. This thing is going to surprise the heck out of anyone who rides in it or drives it with the seat of the pants out of the hole torque. I have my bone stock original 1966 Chevy 396 with the extremely lame .398 lift “325 hp” (very optimistic in my opinion, more like 290) cam set up the same way. I limited the total mechanical, put in a medium/light spring combination and shaved the weights a bit to lighten them up. Vacuum advance plugged into FULL MANIFOLD so that she fades out based on throttle position. Even with tall 2:73 rear gears she’s a friggin neck snapper and is an absolute joy to drive anywhere. Not to mention the gas mileage is better than most modern v8’s with fuel injection. Can’t wait for an on board cruise in this thing with Uncle Kathy manning the camera of course!
Maybe she can ride in the trunk again like the charger video. Lol. What a trouper
i know ! i find these things way more interesting 🤨 than 500 Hp builds
This is the sort of advice Trades men gave apprentices years ago.
So many tricks are lost,
The little things count
Wire wheel for the win! How I was raised and how I'll do it till I die.
Wire wheels are great, whether on a bench grinder or hand grinder, or the ones that you can chuck up in a drill. The only drawback is that there are some places where they just don't fit, so for that reason I'm considering getting a sand blasting cabinet.
Anywhere on the motor you shouldn't wire wheel?
Using a wire wheel doesn't damage the zinc plating or slightly roll over the edge (tip) of the threads?
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 threads and shaft of a bolt that need wire wheeled because of rust or gack it won't hurt them. I stay off the heads if they are coated bolts and when reinstalling them I may use a light film of oil or antisieze or loctite depending on the use.
@@SirkilzalotNV bores, journals, anyplace there's a bearing going or a moving part is my rule.
UTG.. Tony I’ve been watching since around the start of his channel because he’s different then all the other car channels on UA-cam. He’s passing down valuable old school information that not many people left around know. No bullshit to the point informative information
Ya know it's a strange thing. I love, have always loved, and still love old Mopars with thumping v8's. Yet I am loving Uncle Tony's videos on the slant 6 and this perfect daily driver. Just loving the casualness of a fun driving old car. 👍 Keep up the excellent content Tony and Kathy.
This reminds me off something I tried a very long time ago.
Hose clamped a “L” bracket to the distributor and hooked it to a choke cable from NAPA.
I just left the hold down bolt a little bit loose so I could adjust my timing from the driver seat.
It did work but I don’t remember a lot of other details because it was the 70s and if you can remember the 70s, you weren’t really there. 😉
Haha nice , stepping back in time to move forward.
I've seen setups like that on old stuff from the 20s-30s-40s.
I took the electronic fuel injection off of a modern diesel ,and used the previous generations mechanical injection for the best of both worlds.
The modern engine is top notch reliable, it's the electronics that suck, so use the reliable mechanical injection and cruise with no worries until your hair falls out.
Haha I love it when old tech meets new tech and combines for an unstoppable setup.
I think a lot of people don’t realize how important the timing is. I’ve seen guys “tune by ear”, ball park it, let the chips fall where they may, but I treat it as the Mona Lisa of every engine.
CC Ryder for cammed motors you want to use manifold vacuum I believe but it could be ported vacuum what kind of carb do you have
CC Ryder watch this ua-cam.com/video/WD_bhDq_8tY/v-deo.html
Gas is the best solvent. Diesel fuel is a little safer. Wire wheel on a drill for me and my limited budget now. Always learning stuff from Tony. Stuff I've sort of got a idea about or I've stumbled onto confirmed. These lessons will come in handy for a long time. Thx Tony.
Back in high school we would power brake the car until it sounded good and would turn the tires at the lowest RPM while we were underneath the hood turning the distributor. We would probably all go to jail nowadays for trying that stuff!
What's wrong with tuning by ear? what you got to have the timing light out everytime you set your timing?
Ok, this shows just how far technology had come even by the mid 1990s. My friend's Honda B18A1 with ported 1995 Integra GS-R VTEC head engine that I helped rebuild with high compression pistons, will not idle well unless it is lean and has more idle advance than stock. The car idles at 15.5:1 (average) AFR with 18 degrees of ignition timing. If I try to go for the factory 16 degrees of ignition timing, it stumbles. Not sure what the factory had them idle at for AFR, but all I know is that his engine loves to idle lean with lots of advance. And even with 12.5:1 compression the engine does not like to be over 13.5:1 AFR even under heavy load and high RPM (in VTEC). I have his ignition advance set as high as 42 degrees and the car just loves it.
Edit: Ah, ok, so you are actually tuning the ignition closer to what my friend's engine runs, so it seems that the biggest difference is the performance and economy are being built into his LS/VTEC engine at the same time. Granted, I am comparing a computer controlled 1.8 liter 4 banger from the early 1990s to a V8 with a carb. and mechanical ignition system. But I love seeing how things over lap and how things have changed over the years! I have said it before, but, I love this channel.
Haha this reminds me of back in the day on my 83 GTI.
I was goofing around with something, but didn't have a timing light to set the timing.
So I set it by ear and a decent idle speed.
Ran like gangbusters , but one hot day I heard a little ping.
So I stopped at my buddy's place because he had a timing light.
It's supposed to have like 6 btdc and I had about 25!
They were curved for emissions of course , and I was like 18 so I didn't know what I know 29 years later.
Haha I like to look back at stuff I did as a kid and wish sometimes I knew what I know now.
haha me and everyone who's thinking this could have ruled the streets that exist in our heads.
your friend is running a bit too lean in vtec/wide open throttle 13.5:1 is getting risky especially if he is on 91 octane pump gas with that high of a compression ratio he is asking for trouble. The car should really be around 12.5:1 in vtec/heavy load you need a little bit of extra fuel to help cool the combustion chamber so you don't melt a piston or run into detonation. On NA cars general rule of thumb is air fuel ratio in the 12's and with a power adder like boost or spray you want it in the 11's. Your friend should really switch to e85 he would pick up some power with that high of compression and it would be safer.
@@GnarshredProductions Normally you would be right about those things, however, if I try to tune the engine into the 12:1 AFR range, no matter what I do with the ignition timing, the engine does not like it. If I tune the engine anymore rich than we have it set, it is not happy, regardless of what I do with ignition timing. Without the VTEC head, the engine ran fine at closer to 12:1 under heavy load. With the VTEC head it wants to run leaner. I am guessing the GS-R head's quench area must be the biggest reason why. We have, with current tune, had no issues with his car, and it runs like a scalded ass ape.
@@Carstuff111 you could have other issues, honestly a small air fuel ratio change shouldn't make a huge difference in power ive run as rich as 10:1 on a turbo single cam and the difference between that and 12:1 was only slightly noticable when street tuning. Make sure there are no exhaust leaks because that can throw off the wideband readings, also good spark and proper gap is important ive had a lot of issues in the past with blowing out spark where there was a stumble or engine was breaking up under load and its usually because of weak spark. It's never a bad idea to do new spark plugs, cap and rotor, and wires if you can.
My moms friend who passed away recently was a mechanic and I remember him telling me when I was young cleanliness is next to godliness when youre taking an engine apart and cleaning it.. He had me cleaning all the valves by hand and bolts and everything.
Sadly that c10 was just too far gone for my project car (I was 16 and had no money) but I got some good lessons from him helping me. It was really a free donor vehicle that was more of a learning tool.
dont beat yourself up i did the same with a 75 caddy, ended up sending it to the junkyard it was so rotten there wasn't a single straight panel on it, still learned a huge amount about engines from it
I've had bad distributer bearings change my point gap at different rpm and drive me nuts trying to figure it out. First thing I check now.
Ya old timers know hook up dwell meter check dwell at idle accelerate look for more than 4 deg dwell change bad point late or worn distances bushings
Usually what causes this is worn lobes on the distributor shaft. Not saying the bush/bearing whatever isn't worn but yeah the lobes flog out and any slop in the shaft is made 10x worse because the lobes are rubbed down. This is especially true if vac advance is connected. As the vac comes on during cruise the breaker plate pulls the points away from the lobes and the motor stops or misfires.
I had this on a stock 383 dist.
Ah, good to know, I hadn't thought of that!
I was 600 miles from home it wouldn't run above or below fifty miles an hour I drove all the way home at fifty. It was a long ride in a Datsun pick up bet I made it. I traded it for a 1975 Grandville convertible with a 455.
On the dyno I have found typically engines make the most power with 10deg/1000rpm up till peak torque then you probably don't want anymore advance or you likely will start hurting stuff at peak load. 70deg at 7000rpm would be a bad day. lol
You speak 100% truth sir. I learned 90% of those lessons the hard way, but once I got it right, the Mexican tire shop that sold used take offs knew my first name. Lol
Tony, you might want to explain exactly what advance is. To people under 50, advance is a squiggly line on a laptop.
Wire Wheel For The Win! That's how I have done it since I started driving in 1973. Well, I started with a wire brush, until I made my first million, then I bought an electric grinding wheel with a wire wheel on one end. lol
Whenever Im able to start my first project car, THESE are gonna be the videos i come back to for these little gems of advice.
Great teaching video Tony , I'm currently reconditioning the 225 slant in my 66 valiant ( called a AP6 in Australia) and what I've learnt from you so far is great , really enjoy watching your videos mate .
Sweet! My second car was an AP5 (near enough to 6, I reckon.) But my first was a VG Pacer hardtop (250 2 bbl), and it's hard for anything to compare well after that. :-P
You heard it here folks, a real man has about as much use for an ultrasonic cleaner as they do for a douche nozzle! I love that you're not just old school because you're stuck in your ways, you actually have good reasons for doing things the way you do.
Thanks Uncle Tony
I still use brushes to clean my parts and a wire wheel if I have it. Work out of tool boxes and putting a wire brush in a drill with button lock.
I was always taught watch your plugs for a few weeks when you build a new engine it'll tell you alot about whats goin on....timing,fuel (lean/rich mix) ECT alot of time those plugs will tell you alot....always a great and interesting vid.....
Hi tony, do you have any advice on running manifold vs ported vacuum for the distributor advance?
#IgnitionTimingIsCrucial
9 to 1 CR is perfect for regular unleaded....and will give it snappy performance
I never knew you could FULLY tune ignition with an old school distributor. I AM THE COMPUTER
@Lassi Kinnunen well yeah but you can't have a car that does everything no matter what, I just don't see the point in converting to modern everything thats all
Hey Uncle Tony check out this channel-----> Neutral Drop those guys are pretty entertaining...
Love it , I want to know your technique on degreeing the cam . Uncle Kathy is going to bug you about 😉
This is where i had an edge over a lot of guys racing in the early 90's. Most were clueless about this, my buddy mentored me and it paid off. Ignition timing and mapping was the most overlooked aspect of performance. I beat a trailer queen twice in the 1/4 mile. He came over with his buddies looking around under my hood with flashlights mumbling about me having a hidden nitrous kit. Best compliment ever😂
Masterful explanation of timing effects. Thank you!
He’s about to make v8 torque with I4 gas mileage
Uncle Tony PLEASE... Tell me there is a good reason you're using that open carb spacer instead of a separated one on a dual plane manifold. Especially when you have been preaching velocity on this build.
The general trend for carb spacers is to use one that is opposite of the intake it is on. IE: open spacer on a dual plane, 4-hole spacer on a single plane. This is true almost all the time on V8s. Check out Engine Masters on motor trend on demand. They did an episode on this. Basic conclusion is having an open spacer on a dual plane will give the dual plane some of the mid and high rpm advantages (really some light flow advantages) of a single without loosing the strong pulses or low end drivability. Vice Versa using a 4-hole spacer on a single plane intake.
@@findRED taking the division out of a divided manifold makes no sense. especially in the RPM range that Tony is going for. Might as just grind the divider out.
@@72chevelle156 A spacer is Adding Space before the dual plane intake. It's not taking anything away, only adding more plenum on top. Thus it improves air flow across the curve without sacrificing the low end torque or drivability inherent in a dual plane intake manifold.
@@findRED Your comment "without sacrificing the low end torque or drivability inherent in a dual plane intake manifold." is completely wrong. Why do you think manufacturers use dual plane. But you're right spacers add top end. But an open mouth spacer is for an open mouth single plane. The dual plane is divided for a reason and should stay divided unless you're full throttle all the time. but it's UT's build and his opinion is the only one that matters but I can't seem to get a reply. he misunderstood the question when UC told him and just said it needs a spacer. I agree I just think he might want to reconsider the type of spacer.
@@findRED You didn't understand my comment it's not about using a spacer it was the type of spacer. I'd use a spacer now if I had room under the hood.
Efficient and snappy engine. I wish there was UA-cam when I built my mopars Mine were quick but absolute gas gusslers great job 👍
When i watched this video there was 5 thumbs down? Thats 5 dip shits! Tony from what i could see you've been balls to the walls working on your engine and the 318 build for the dyno awsome job 😎🤘. Is it ok to message you instead of on here ? If so what is the email? I know your really busy . i was hoping to get some one on one help from you to set up my timing and go over my 318 build specs ect and help/ suggestions for my future 360 build for my 65 dart . i've also been staying in contact with Lunar as well. I'm Jeramiaha by the way 😎.Thanks Tony
Thank you sir. Your knowledge is commendable.
I will wait to see ya tomorrow, maybe Mothers Day, to see how it runs!! Great Vid, Tony, Stuff I know about!!
I had a friend with a Nissan 4 banger from the late 80's early 90's (I may be wrong on that, it may have been a bit earlier.) It was a small 5 speed manual car (I forget the model, but not a sports car.). Stock, it was a slug and would just do for getting you to the grocery store and back, but with the timing advanced and a good set of plugs and wires he ran with a lot of vehicles with twice the displacement and embarrassed a lot of people. Timing is a HUGE deal when it comes to both peak power and when the power comes in. His being a FWD, he didn't need a lot of power or he would break traction until around 4k RPM, but after that, the little thing was a ripper.
Wow tons of interesting info to absorb. The compression on my 498 BBC is 9.75 to 1. Cannot wait to try a 20-degree initial with 38-degree total. During engine dyno 38-degrees made the most WOT power. I am still using stock GM dizzy with vacuum advance. Hopefully the engine won’t ping with such an aggressive timing curve. If it does will back off a bit. Thx
I clean with wire wheel as well. I have a series of drills & die grinders with different brushes I also use. I thought I was the only one that went to that much work to clean every lil thing? Becouse it is alot of pain staking work! Like 80 percent of my li life is cleaning parts I swear!!!
Thats why i had kids...😂😂
Shh dont tell em...!!!
Hi Tony....John here, up in Washington. If I want to experiment timing with a vacume gauge, do I plug gauge into ported or manifold outlet on my edlebrock 1405? Thanks bud....love all your videos. Just bought an overpriced 65Impala....350...with 4 speed Muncie. So crude and uncivilized. I want to put 700R4 in next year with 2600 stall and a light shift kit.
I'm a bit confused by reducing the governor-advance slot widths at the low RPM side, what's the difference between doing that and just rotating the distributor a bit more, prior to clamping it down? Maybe it's done more to just limit the range of advance in total over the RPM range of the engine?
Reducing the spring return force then just makes the distributor more of a binary (on/off) advance system; at idle it's at low advance, anything off of idle and it's at full advance and just stays there all the way to redline... (I think that's what Uncle Tony is trying to achieve here).
Enjoying the series, very practical "old school" advise on engine rebuilding, especially the advise of "don't just clean it, inspect each part!"
Cheers,
As a matter of policy, I automatically [pun intended and copyrighted] remove the kick-down on every car [or truck] I have.
If the vehicle needs that much more down shifting, I want 100% unconditional control of it, AND I do NOT want it 'volunteering' its self into 2nd gear when I need it in high gear.
Crazy story.
I used to park my nova number against a tree in the yard and I would test how “snappy” my throttle response was just by advancing the total timing and well checking different vacuum pressures on the advance..
of course I was 18-20yrs old and didn’t know much about the “why” and only knew the “what” and “how” I could get out of it...
Aaaaaaaah. Grasshopper.......timing. is. Everything ...and. patience..are. some times. Very. . Important.... as. In. Waiting. For. The. Engine. To. Build... r...p...m. and. The. Right. Feel. Of. Pull.. when. Approaching. The. Shift. Point.....ya. know....that. point..when. the engine... just. Sound.s. good. And. Feels. Right....for. the. Shift.. I. Hope. I. Got. Somethin....outta. this... as. I. Usually. Do. Have. A. Nice. Day.....
I really like your distributor advancement technique!
I think I shall try that because I tend to end up with TOO MUCH advance and get knock at the top end under load in hot weather.
My brother says he got a distributor which has some kind of timing related speed/RPM limiter because it was made for a large truck application to limit said truck to only 55 mph, and I will look into it and see if it is and if so how much, because if it has this, it might be perfect for my needs.
Does anybody out there reading this happen to know any secret places a person can look for a super rare set of rearward pointing exhaust manifolds for a 392 4bbl set up for engines using side mounts as opposed to front and bell housing mounts?
Cracked bolts are the least of your problems Tony...I'm kiddin', I'M KIDDIN'! Your channel ROCKS! I think I'll hook up some leads and weld on some distributor innards with 7018.😳
I need to pee
Everything come out alright ???
Good stuff Tony! Thank you. So, I see you like your Points Distributors? I have a couple laying around, do you think they are better than the late 70's ECM/Hall effect Distributors? How about this Mod on an ECM/Hall effect Dist? I've seen a couple vid's where guys Lock them up or stretch the advance springs. It should work the same principle rite?
UT
I have a 65 300 L w/413.
Do you have 413 videos about 440 heads on 413?
I'm concerned about cc's and loss of power as well as fitment.
413 is a very ignored powerful motor.
But I want more for less money.
I am up for a cam,headers,intake,and carb upgrades.
But not $1000 heads.
Lack of new parts for this motor makes it largely ignored.
Hello from wausau wi
Chug, chug, chug went the motor
Bump, bump, bump went the brake
Thump, thump, thump went my heart strings
I smiled when I could feel the car shake.
forgive me. it popped in my head.
Chrysler AC is very DIY. Is using 134a an option?
Uncle T, could you comment WHY you need at 34 deg advance at 2000RPM? Wouldn't you want it to max out at highway speeds hitting 60mph and around 3000rpm???
Good luck with the MSD Blaster coil The last three I've owned have leaked oil.
Like UT said, don’t forget the WhatNot Tool.. For.. The lack of having the WhatNot tool always spells certain disaster, obviously.. just like forgetting the turn signal blinker oil.. 😳
When you build anything, shortcuts are your enemy! Spending that extra few hours hand dressing your bolts prevents that bad one from (at best) stranding you on a rainy night with no cell reception to (at worst) grenading your engine while bringing home frozen food on a hot day in rush hour traffic, lol. Listen to Tony, time invested is time saved in the long run!
Shit the hell with performance set up. I'm dealing with my car right now and it is fighting. Little '89 Pontiac Lemans 1.6L. Cam and crank set at nubs. Distributor right at top. Computer does not know the timing. It is an interference engine. All 4 plugs got the electrodes blown off. Compression is 125 lbs down the line. It has 198K. I did head gasket, timing belt and water pump, remaned distributor, new cap, rotor, wires and new coil. Timing belt is tensioned @ 35ft lbs between water pump and cam.
Can't recall all the time i spent jacking with a points distributor on my 72 Impala learning how to work on it, that was in my younger days. Dang thing kept burning points up, then come to find out the vaccum advance was shot the entire time. Of course looking back if I'd of known what i know now, I'd of took a HEI distributor off from a junk yard motor and dropped that puppy right in that 400 small block and wired her up. No disrespect, but I can't stand points ignitions to this day, those HEI distributors were damn good, i found that out later on my 75 Impala what the difference was.
Bones, FYI
Running a 1979 big block Chevy 454 casting 283 my performance jet boat 26 ft
Old school motor setup
Tony, Dodge tells me that my breakerless ignition reluctor style (1983 w250 318 4 barrel) does not need to be timed - is this true? Also most of the emissions equipment has been removed and much of the vac lines everywhere are plugged including the distributor -good idea or should I source missing emissions parts, go back in and hook everything up to get good efficiency and tune? Help!
My experience with 1971 chevy 350 in my k5 blazer with standard transmission. less that 1000 ft above sea level regular unleaded fuel. quadrajet carb. the engine ran best with stock distributor vacuum advance, stock springs and weights. 8 degrees of initial advance. stock cam timing. I tried lots of changes( lighter spring vacuum advance unit, heavier weights, lighter springs) but every one resulted in extreme ping. can't do that. I think every set up needs to be considered on its own merit. the chevy would run up to about 34 degrees of total advance. at high altitude above 5000 feet all my old vehicles liked and extra 4 degrees of initial advance. when my engine pings I will not tolerate that. way to many engines are made into junk by ignoring ping. its great that modern systems use knock sensors.