Reminds me of the small track in porter tx I cut my teeth on. Bracket racing, dudes in 17 seconds citation running a 9 seconds Chevelle and they cross the finish line at same time. Street rides having fun.
"Having fun with run what ya brung"....right on Uncle T! Back in the day I and a couple of my buds had old beater 6 bangers for our back up rides when our "fast" cars were down for whatever reason. I had a 55 Ford 2 door sedan with and OHV 6 and 3 on the tree. Bud #2 had a 50 F1 with a flathead 6 and a 3 speed. Bud #3 had a 51 Ford 2 door sedan with a flat head 6 and 3 on the tree. They were all slow AF, but we had just as much fun street racing them as we did our fast cars! The 55 would out pull either flathead easy, but it wasn't about who won, it was about racing.....dark of the night, moon and the stars overhead, summertime, deserted highway, girl friends and non race buds yelling from the finish line...it was magical for 17-18 year old gear heads!
Saw one of these XJ's around where i live, the guy was driving it like he stole it, it was red in color as the one in the video, for a moment i was like: "Oh shit it's Tony!" Then i remembered i live in a different state. but anywho, it's cool to see someone else aside from Tony is "Hotrodding" an XJ.
You never know. If Tony can move from New York to Tennessee without any hassles, nothing says that state boundaries can keep him from stealing XJs, if he isn't outright buying them
We had a 70 torino with a 460. Traction sucked. We moved the leaf spring mounts rearward and made them asymetrical. Thanks to me read Dick Landys books, what a difference! She hooked, then the doors wouldnt open!😂
@@tacomas9602 yes, how far forward the axle is on the spring. The dodges always had a short front section and long rear section. We moved the spring perches 3 inches back. Instead of squating on the launch, it lifted the front and rear. If the rear of the body is rising, its pushing down on the rear axle, more traction. The gtx was a great example of the geometry.
When you get to building your rock crawler XJ I have a recommendation that has made a huge difference for me. My 01 XJ had an intermittent problem that no shop or those on XJ forums could resolve. It would occasionally start running rough and throw random cylinder misfire codes. It was immediately fixed (temporarily) by simply turning off and restarting the XJ. That didn't clear the codes but it ran smoothly again. I tried everything including replacing the computer. The guys at K Suspension thought it might be the coil pack. I installed their high performance Viper coil kit for the XJ. Like your Seafoam discovery, I was blown away by how incredibly smooth it runs with a noticeable power increase. What is really great, however, is that there are no more rough running issues or codes. I am not sure what year your new build is, but if it has a coil pack, dump it.
Damn straight! Bloody epic video. I remeber racing in 1/4 Mile being stoked with a 13 second pass, It's as much the people around you as it is the event itself, family, friends or fans, it doesn't matter. It's all the same thing. Love what you do, cheers from a bloke Down Under.
I deep-sixed the auxiliary fans in my XJ when I had it, and my MJ, and I never looked back. As long as there were no leaks it was just like you said: middle of the gauge and stays there.
Tony, you are in my wheelhouse. I love Jeeps, and I am a Jeep guy. Now, granted, I am an off-road guy, but I used to be a valiant guy also. I am a big fan of the XJ and ZJ models. They are my favorite of that era. I think another part of the equation you are fighting is the weight transfer dynamics. They were kind of built to be weight center biased or more level for off road. The 2 wheel versions were dropped in front a little, but the weight dynamics are still somewhat center biased. I would say use it to your advantage and fill the gas tank full to throw some weight behind the axle. Those jeeps have the tank hanging back there to protect them when off reading, use it to your advantage. Swing some of that weight back there to help squat that thing on take off. It will probably help not hurt your end goal. Also a good set of multistage bilstien shocks. I ran them for off road and they helped slow the deep sag on the ass end when you did not want it to bottom out over the rear axle. It is still just basically factory parts and not a Wild upgrade. It also helps with axle wrap. Off road guys don't want axle wrap either.
Temp and humidity air pressure can make 2/10 of a second difference. A stronger clutch a posi rear axle will help. Put the rear sway bar on. It'll understeer but its just for the track. Maybe some better tires
Brings back memories of my old stock eliminator days , My Camaro had orig motor trans and rear end and I whittled it down to almost a second under the NHRA G/SA index
With rear leaf springs, a rear sway bar generally doesn't help straight line traction, but in the GM cars with rear coil springs, a rear sway bar often helps straight line traction, maybe by reducing wheel hop that those cars often have. Advance the camshaft? Replace the valve springs? With regular hydraulic lifters, I'd get lifter pump up at a lower RPM with oils heavier than 10W30. A side terminal battery can be about 11 pounds lighter than a top post battery, of the same capacity. Back in the 1970's, I had a 1969 Roadrunner in high school, that had the rear seat removed, the floor covering removed, the front seat replaced with Pinto buckets on spacer blocks, the sway bar removed, 6 cylinder torsion bars, 6 cylinder front drums, aluminum wheels, the hood center cross braces cut out and an AC Delco side terminal battery saved over 20 pounds, over old the top post battery. When it came off of the line, the whole car would lift up, front and rear. An aluminum intake, tube headers and lightweight Hush Trush mufflers helped to reduce weight too. It had solid engine mounts and the whole hood would shake and wrinkle when it idled at a traffic light.
It's cool to see you figure out new things. I like hearing your thought process. Keep it up. Don't listen to people who complain about videos being too long. They aren't your people 😁
The XJ content is GREAT!!! I have a 9 second Mustang collecting dust while im having WAAAAY more fun with my Explorer 302 swapped 97 Ranger. Similar situation with it as i want to see just how fast it can go using OEM parts!
Since you want to use original parts I would read up on the upcountry suspension package. Basically it was a factory 1" lift and off-road package that included heavier duty springs, monotube gas shocks and a trac-lok rear. All of which which would help with the traction and axle wrap.
Would smaller tires fit your plan for "available for any stock 96?" What about those LED headlights you got on the white XJ? Caltracs (even home made?)
I don’t know how you can find one that cheap!! Plus!! You have bumpers! The rest up here is so bad you are lucky that the windshield is still intact. I would love that car. Also. I have not seen a 2 door around here. Nice job.
Automatic transmissions run the fluid through the bottom of the radiator. This adds heat when stopped. I bypass this to a separate transmission cooler and never had a heat issue.
Also put a turbo style muffler on it, you'll get more low end. I have two 96's, have done several cheap modifications. One used to run 4.15 in a 150 foot mud pit,( in 4 Low, 31's, and 3.55 gears.
Hi Uncle Tony, I'm a fan of your contents. I would like to suggest you to put a go pro in the vehicles that you drag race. To get a POV. It would be interesting. Much love from Mauritius 🇲🇺
The AW4 automatic is a beefy trans but it puts out just as much heat as the 4.0 itself. I moved my trans cooler on my 96 to a external Hayden 679 and the thing would take nearly 3 times as long to get up to temp in below zero temps.
I'm a Mopar guy, as much as a lot of you. I'd LOVE to have a '68 Charger, or '70 Challenger/Cuda convertible in my stable. But! I have as many memories in other makes, to. Straight up; It wasn't that badge on the fender, that made those you still carry. It was the people you were with. Even at 54 years old, I'm not sure if every one of the Statute of Limitations has run out yet.......... 😉😉😉
I've been just recently studying dynamic compression ratio, so I agree with Tony that advancing the time to a certain degree can help with intake vale timing. If you can get the intake valves to close earlier on the compression stroke without creating too much dynamic compression, it'll give the engine more beans. The thing I don't know is if they made different cams for the 4.0 in the mid 90s. Probably not, but it may be worth a look if you want to adjust valve timing.
Put in the heaviest available factory optional towing / HD spring that the vehicle could have been ordered with. It makes a good deal of difference in the Dakota and Durango symmetrical spring platform for traction.
That won’t change the elapsed time. Reaction time is only a factor when you’re directly racing someone. The actual time doesn’t start until he takes off.
on stock mopars the snubber seems to be way too far away to make a difference but if you make a custom one that actually works without limiting the travel it needs daily couod be worth adding 5lbs
Put an A/F gauge on it and watch it at WOT. These things run in the 10's stock. Bump it up to 12.5 and you'll get at least 10 more HP to the ground under the entire curve with no timing changes. Be careful adding timing without a dyno as they love to ping.
I met an old Mopar guy at the dollar store and one of the things he said about my duster was cut the rear spring clamps off the originals haven't broken all the way off but they are floppy
I ditched the belt pulley fan and used a 2nd 97-01 ten-blade electric fan. That'll free up a tenth. . . I mentioned before, an Eaton Truetrac is the way to go. My XJs all get Addco swaybars for better street handling. Oh yeah, base ignition timing can be advanced a few degrees if you take the crank sensor and U the passenger side bolt hole and oblong the driver hole.
Slower .lol..spit happens lol. Let me know if you're interested in me to check out this road runner .I could pm you a video. After I set an appointment for such...
Curious to see how you are going to tune it as far as timing and rev limiter goes? As far as I know the stock computers are not tunable. Hope I'm wrong because I would love to do some stuff with mine...🤓
Uncle Tony question. Decision time. Up for grab is a 1966 318 charger needs work to be roadworthy. On the other hand we have a 1969 GTX THAT needs more work such as floors, trunk floor and quater panel. Engine rebuild and some interior. No I am not a welder and not really knowledgeable in mechanical issues. But I really like the GTX. What is the smartest choice cause both are great cars in my eyes.
I'm with ya UT. Race everything. My build would possibly interest you. It's been a fun ride to this point. And now it's time for that next step. Nothing crazy. Just some ingenuity, patience.. super low cost, smiles per gallon. Probably never run it down a strip tbh. There's not one close by me. Maybe I could get it dialed well enough for a long drive to a strip and back.
Got myself a Track peanut buster. 2007 3 pedals Honda 1.5 with a 100miles on it. I onky change filter FILTER3. I Just changed the oil and filter for a frenchstart. Well'e see if it helpped.
You have Axle Wrap, very common on jeeps and solved with a traction bar. This solution is documented for off road as there is more torque in low range which you are doing now at the drag strip launch. Lots of traction bars use 8", I suggest 12" separation at the axle. Place a camera to record your rear leaf springs when launching. Or go the universal leaf spring traction bars for a car, either way you have already explained why it is happening... the springs are flat, which is good for flexing leaf springs and one reason XJ's are good off road.
Tony the jeeps are cool and all but you have some really cool cars that don’t get any air time. The charger, road runner(s?) etc. please do some more ratty muscle car videos. That charger is amazing and is helping people understand you don’t need to make it perfect just make it cool.
If your build rules allow for fabrication, would it be possible to flip the springs, reweld the spring perches and get to asymmetrical geometry? Carrol Shelby said "too much horsepower is not the problem, too little traction is"
Tony cool video I like all your innovations try this and that. But I do believe in my state”Pa” you have to run the factory rear wiper blade but maybe not in Florida. I will be looking for the next video Thanks
I knew an Old timer, that would take the back shackle,swap sides and flip it backwarsds. It moves the rear location up and in. That other axle,absorbed some of the 39 hp we was working with. Tell Dr. We got to spin the crank faster. I think there is tractor, clutch disc couple inches smaller with that spline.
Dodge Neon injectors work well. Instead of 4 hole "outlets," they have 8 or 16 holes. Made a huge difference in daily driving in my Rubicon TJ drivability and performance. Cheap enough at the salvage yard
I did a little research and found another of cool factory “option” that was available for the 4X2 XJ that was available. Manual steering and brakes. That would be worth a little more weight savings and free up a little power. There’s probably a sweet spot in late eighties where so many government agencies or other fleets thar used XJs that you could find a very spartan model that would make a really fun similar project. It’d be fun to do one with the 4.0 258 stroker 4.7 to see what it could do once set up to get some traction.
Never stop making that kind of stuff, you're the only one who dares trying to innovate and learn while everybody is so afraid to fail!! Always fun to follow your projects!
I know it's from a different year xj but you could put the 4.2 crank and rods into the stock 4.0 and make a "stroker". It would look stock sound stock and be made with a factory xj part.
Sometimes you gotta go back before going forward. In the mid 90’s I had a respectably fast car. Then I built a stroker motor with ported heads and it was a rocket ship. Then I went crazy and opened up the heads as big as they would go totally the wrong way essentially ruining them and added a stupidly big cam. The well crafted combination I had was lost and that new engine was a pooch. It was so slow I never bothered to take it to the track. I was 19 at the time. Live and learn.
I fully support your xj obsession, and I think people need to chill out. Last time I checked it was Uncle Tony's Garage, not subscribers garage. Xj's are brilliant. I love the other content too, but like you I have seasons of obsession so I know how it is. I learn something new every time you put out a video, and I am very grateful
Shoot, not even some older folks can drive 3 on the tree. Millennial here with a 70 Oldsmobile F85. Guy who was transporting it Gave up trying to figure it out. Had to teach the next guy to drive it in order to ship it.
GenX'r here i didnt own an automatic until my 30's mostly fox bodies and trucks, and alotbof them were raced. stick shifts are an overrated fascination of generations that havent experienced them. unless you popping 7-10K for a real stick shift like a G-Force101-a or a Liberty's equalizer a built automatic is the way to go. theyre also quicker and morebconsistant and less parts breakage.
The back seat and seat-rest are easy to remove. There are levers to remove the seat base then you can just pop the backrest out. Put them back in when you need them.. Takes about 60 seconds to pull the seat..
I love this project. Not swapping engines not spending 15k, just goofing off and seeing what the stock vehicle can do at the edge. Keep going!
Goofing off that what it is
Reminds me of the small track in porter tx I cut my teeth on. Bracket racing, dudes in 17 seconds citation running a 9 seconds Chevelle and they cross the finish line at same time. Street rides having fun.
Wednesday night at New England Dragway. 20 bucks to get on, another 20 to run times
@@yehornaumov5893 Don't forget bracket money under the table.
you missed the open door buzzer that can definitely go 😂
My first thought when I heard it too 😅
ALWAYS! The first thing out of my rides. LOL!
I'm the kind of guy to add weight to a Miata and that buzzer still had to go
LOL.
its a jeep you want to turn it into a dragster?, your idiot or waht??
"Having fun with run what ya brung"....right on Uncle T! Back in the day I and a couple of my buds had old beater 6 bangers for our back up rides when our "fast" cars were down for whatever reason. I had a 55 Ford 2 door sedan with and OHV 6 and 3 on the tree. Bud #2 had a 50 F1 with a flathead 6 and a 3 speed. Bud #3 had a 51 Ford 2 door sedan with a flat head 6 and 3 on the tree. They were all slow AF, but we had just as much fun street racing them as we did our fast cars! The 55 would out pull either flathead easy, but it wasn't about who won, it was about racing.....dark of the night, moon and the stars overhead, summertime, deserted highway, girl friends and non race buds yelling from the finish line...it was magical for 17-18 year old gear heads!
I've been building cars for 30 years. And I still learn stuff from you all the time.
It's always a super minute detail that throws off your entire ET. It's never something obvious that would be too easy.
Saw one of these XJ's around where i live, the guy was driving it like he stole it, it was red in color as the one in the video, for a moment i was like: "Oh shit it's Tony!"
Then i remembered i live in a different state. but anywho, it's cool to see someone else aside from Tony is "Hotrodding" an XJ.
You never know. If Tony can move from New York to Tennessee without any hassles, nothing says that state boundaries can keep him from stealing XJs, if he isn't outright buying them
@@al_dente4777 Point taken, I'm just going to go with Tony teleporting cross states to get every XJ under the sun. XD
All good thoughts but I am sticking with the back hatch Not Opening anymore 😁
Weight is good. My old ‘80 2-door box top Fairmont weighed 2900 and change with an iron headed 302.
We had a 70 torino with a 460. Traction sucked. We moved the leaf spring mounts rearward and made them asymetrical. Thanks to me read Dick Landys books, what a difference! She hooked, then the doors wouldnt open!😂
Asymmetrical how? As far as how far back or forward each wheel was, or are you talking about modifying spring stiffness with a couple odd leaves?
@@tacomas9602 yes, how far forward the axle is on the spring. The dodges always had a short front section and long rear section. We moved the spring perches 3 inches back. Instead of squating on the launch, it lifted the front and rear. If the rear of the body is rising, its pushing down on the rear axle, more traction. The gtx was a great example of the geometry.
Yes--any vehicle. Thanks for the universal tips, tricks, and advice!
leave that latch out of the hatch!!!! Fill the hatch with lead shot and let it shift back farther behind the wheels on the launch.
Ah yes the active chassis, hope those are strong hinges lol
HATCH SLAMMER!!!!! That weight was all that was giving that one tire any traction lol
Hey tony just a heads up if you move the CPS you can get more timing advance
When you get to building your rock crawler XJ I have a recommendation that has made a huge difference for me. My 01 XJ had an intermittent problem that no shop or those on XJ forums could resolve. It would occasionally start running rough and throw random cylinder misfire codes. It was immediately fixed (temporarily) by simply turning off and restarting the XJ. That didn't clear the codes but it ran smoothly again. I tried everything including replacing the computer. The guys at K Suspension thought it might be the coil pack. I installed their high performance Viper coil kit for the XJ. Like your Seafoam discovery, I was blown away by how incredibly smooth it runs with a noticeable power increase. What is really great, however, is that there are no more rough running issues or codes. I am not sure what year your new build is, but if it has a coil pack, dump it.
Damn straight! Bloody epic video. I remeber racing in 1/4 Mile being stoked with a 13 second pass, It's as much the people around you as it is the event itself, family, friends or fans, it doesn't matter. It's all the same thing. Love what you do, cheers from a bloke Down Under.
I deep-sixed the auxiliary fans in my XJ when I had it, and my MJ, and I never looked back. As long as there were no leaks it was just like you said: middle of the gauge and stays there.
Tony, I love the enthusiasm you have (& have had) for your projects. Keep going!
I’ve had my 2 door xj since 2005 and I still love it… great video Tony
It's certainly coming along, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Tony, you are in my wheelhouse. I love Jeeps, and I am a Jeep guy.
Now, granted, I am an off-road guy, but I used to be a valiant guy also.
I am a big fan of the XJ and ZJ models. They are my favorite of that era.
I think another part of the equation you are fighting is the weight transfer dynamics.
They were kind of built to be weight center biased or more level for off road. The 2 wheel versions were dropped in front a little, but the weight dynamics are still somewhat center biased.
I would say use it to your advantage and fill the gas tank full to throw some weight behind the axle. Those jeeps have the tank hanging back there to protect them when off reading, use it to your advantage.
Swing some of that weight back there to help squat that thing on take off. It will probably help not hurt your end goal.
Also a good set of multistage bilstien shocks. I ran them for off road and they helped slow the deep sag on the ass end when you did not want it to bottom out over the rear axle.
It is still just basically factory parts and not a Wild upgrade. It also helps with axle wrap.
Off road guys don't want axle wrap either.
88 and earlier just had rear lap belts if you wanna have something in there. (2dr and 4dr are the same and will just bolt up in that 96)
On my Ranger I picked up trailer shackles and put 2 clamps on both sides in front half of leafs made big difference
Gaining 2.1 seconds without going to the aftermarket is gonna be a damn hard won victory.
But a great reward
yes and no. in the old days there wasn't much aftermarket, so folks "massaged" their parts.
Temp and humidity air pressure can make 2/10 of a second difference. A stronger clutch a posi rear axle will help. Put the rear sway bar on. It'll understeer but its just for the track. Maybe some better tires
Brings back memories of my old stock eliminator days , My Camaro had orig motor trans and rear end and I whittled it down to almost a second under the NHRA G/SA index
With rear leaf springs, a rear sway bar generally doesn't help straight line traction, but in the GM cars with rear coil springs, a rear sway bar often helps straight line traction, maybe by reducing wheel hop that those cars often have. Advance the camshaft? Replace the valve springs? With regular hydraulic lifters, I'd get lifter pump up at a lower RPM with oils heavier than 10W30. A side terminal battery can be about 11 pounds lighter than a top post battery, of the same capacity. Back in the 1970's, I had a 1969 Roadrunner in high school, that had the rear seat removed, the floor covering removed, the front seat replaced with Pinto buckets on spacer blocks, the sway bar removed, 6 cylinder torsion bars, 6 cylinder front drums, aluminum wheels, the hood center cross braces cut out and an AC Delco side terminal battery saved over 20 pounds, over old the top post battery. When it came off of the line, the whole car would lift up, front and rear. An aluminum intake, tube headers and lightweight Hush Trush mufflers helped to reduce weight too. It had solid engine mounts and the whole hood would shake and wrinkle when it idled at a traffic light.
Would winter tires be cheating? They are a bit softer.
Can’t beat the 4.0 straight 6!
Go XJ!
Yes u can
@@billythehardheadgoatno
@@billythehardheadgoat lol, beat on em, and beat on them and they only eat a piston skirt every 300k. :) what a strong gasser she is.
It's cool to see you figure out new things. I like hearing your thought process. Keep it up. Don't listen to people who complain about videos being too long. They aren't your people 😁
The XJ content is GREAT!!! I have a 9 second Mustang collecting dust while im having WAAAAY more fun with my Explorer 302 swapped 97 Ranger. Similar situation with it as i want to see just how fast it can go using OEM parts!
Since you want to use original parts I would read up on the upcountry suspension package. Basically it was a factory 1" lift and off-road package that included heavier duty springs, monotube gas shocks and a trac-lok rear. All of which which would help with the traction and axle wrap.
I think getting a used leaf . Cut it in half and load it on the leading side of the spring pack , falls within a basic driveway upgrade.
Would smaller tires fit your plan for "available for any stock 96?" What about those LED headlights you got on the white XJ? Caltracs (even home made?)
I don’t know how you can find one that cheap!! Plus!! You have bumpers! The rest up here is so bad you are lucky that the windshield is still intact. I would love that car. Also. I have not seen a 2 door around here. Nice job.
Nice weight job. Battery’s to the rear
Automatic transmissions run the fluid through the bottom of the radiator. This adds heat when stopped. I bypass this to a separate transmission cooler and never had a heat issue.
Hey Tony, XJ leaf springs are asymmetrical, with the axle 2-3” further towards the front of the spring than the rear
good luck finding a rear wiper delete block off, ive only ever seen one on a XJ it was on a 88 2 door i owned a couple years ago, super rare.
Rear springs are 5.625” longer at the rear of the spring, 23f x 28.625r
Also put a turbo style muffler on it, you'll get more low end. I have two 96's, have done several cheap modifications. One used to run 4.15 in a 150 foot mud pit,( in 4 Low, 31's, and 3.55 gears.
Any kind of scatter shield in the plans?
Thanks
COOP
...
Hi Uncle Tony, I'm a fan of your contents. I would like to suggest you to put a go pro in the vehicles that you drag race. To get a POV. It would be interesting. Much love from Mauritius 🇲🇺
Thank you for your fuel tank/sending unit video. I had to fight with a 1993 Corolla fuel system.
The AW4 automatic is a beefy trans but it puts out just as much heat as the 4.0 itself. I moved my trans cooler on my 96 to a external Hayden 679 and the thing would take nearly 3 times as long to get up to temp in below zero temps.
I like the restrictions on the project, it makes a lot of cool stuff come to the surface
I'm a Mopar guy, as much as a lot of you. I'd LOVE to have a '68 Charger, or '70 Challenger/Cuda convertible in my stable. But! I have as many memories in other makes, to. Straight up; It wasn't that badge on the fender, that made those you still carry. It was the people you were with. Even at 54 years old, I'm not sure if every one of the Statute of Limitations has run out yet.......... 😉😉😉
I've been just recently studying dynamic compression ratio, so I agree with Tony that advancing the time to a certain degree can help with intake vale timing. If you can get the intake valves to close earlier on the compression stroke without creating too much dynamic compression, it'll give the engine more beans. The thing I don't know is if they made different cams for the 4.0 in the mid 90s. Probably not, but it may be worth a look if you want to adjust valve timing.
Put in the heaviest available factory optional towing / HD spring that the vehicle could have been ordered with. It makes a good deal of difference in the Dakota and Durango symmetrical spring platform for traction.
You need to start your launch right at the last yellow. Tough with a stick but the light is green and your sitting..
That won’t change the elapsed time. Reaction time is only a factor when you’re directly racing someone. The actual time doesn’t start until he takes off.
on stock mopars the snubber seems to be way too far away to make a difference but if you make a custom one that actually works without limiting the travel it needs daily couod be worth adding 5lbs
I'd like to see Tony try this with a 2wd Dakota.
Those Jeeps always have those very straight leaf springs. I noticed that years ago when I had buddies with them and they were all over the road
Put an A/F gauge on it and watch it at WOT. These things run in the 10's stock. Bump it up to 12.5 and you'll get at least 10 more HP to the ground under the entire curve with no timing changes. Be careful adding timing without a dyno as they love to ping.
I agree tony, rev limiter delete will help.
I met an old Mopar guy at the dollar store and one of the things he said about my duster was cut the rear spring clamps off the originals haven't broken all the way off but they are floppy
Drove a bike with a really old front tire. Contributed to a couple spills before the tires wore the dry rot layer off.
If you do need tires look at 255/70-15 there the same hight and weight as 235/75 just half inch ish wider tread
I ditched the belt pulley fan and used a 2nd 97-01 ten-blade electric fan. That'll free up a tenth. . .
I mentioned before, an Eaton Truetrac is the way to go. My XJs all get Addco swaybars for better street handling. Oh yeah, base ignition timing can be advanced a few degrees if you take the crank sensor and U the passenger side bolt hole and oblong the driver hole.
*are 4wd rear springs any stiffer?* this is a great project and it's too bad these 2wd jx jeeps are rare in the north east. and rusty!
Tow springs are good to use.
The super stock shirt is a pure troll!! Love it!! XJ heaven!!
Think I would reverse your plan. Sure grip and then the tires.
And crazy wheel hop. Fix suspension first, then add traction
Slower .lol..spit happens lol.
Let me know if you're interested in me to check out this road runner .I could pm you a video. After I set an appointment for such...
Not able to post the pic 69 roadrunner almost no rust looks like no front suspension or tires on blocks 3:32
332 is mistake.
Grammar here is not looking correct lmk if interested 69 very solid body..
Curious to see how you are going to tune it as far as timing and rev limiter goes? As far as I know the stock computers are not tunable. Hope I'm wrong because I would love to do some stuff with mine...🤓
I thought the lose tailgate was doing it. Good luck UTG.
Uncle Tony question. Decision time. Up for grab is a 1966 318 charger needs work to be roadworthy. On the other hand we have a 1969 GTX THAT needs more work such as floors, trunk floor and quater panel. Engine rebuild and some interior. No I am not a welder and not really knowledgeable in mechanical issues. But I really like the GTX. What is the smartest choice cause both are great cars in my eyes.
What about wedging the rearend to drop the pinion angle for a little more lift?
I'm with ya UT. Race everything. My build would possibly interest you. It's been a fun ride to this point. And now it's time for that next step. Nothing crazy. Just some ingenuity, patience.. super low cost, smiles per gallon. Probably never run it down a strip tbh. There's not one close by me. Maybe I could get it dialed well enough for a long drive to a strip and back.
Rock on U. T . ✊🏼⛽️
Got myself a Track peanut buster.
2007 3 pedals Honda 1.5 with a 100miles on it. I onky change filter FILTER3. I Just changed the oil and filter for a frenchstart. Well'e see if it helpped.
I wonder if the springs could be re-arched for a little less wrap? Or maybe pick up a second set to mix and match and build a stiffer leaf stack.
Pitching the power steering pump, hoses and fluid would also count. Replacing all fasteners that are too long will also add up
You have Axle Wrap, very common on jeeps and solved with a traction bar. This solution is documented for off road as there is more torque in low range which you are doing now at the drag strip launch. Lots of traction bars use 8", I suggest 12" separation at the axle. Place a camera to record your rear leaf springs when launching. Or go the universal leaf spring traction bars for a car, either way you have already explained why it is happening... the springs are flat, which is good for flexing leaf springs and one reason XJ's are good off road.
Would you be able to mess with a cam timing and get better bottom end power
That's why the stroker works so well. Move the peak hp/tq lower. More mpg and more power.
Jeep had a high output version of those 4.0 6 cyl engines, could be performance options there
Excellent comment @ 20:46 👏👏👏
Tony the jeeps are cool and all but you have some really cool cars that don’t get any air time. The charger, road runner(s?) etc. please do some more ratty muscle car videos. That charger is amazing and is helping people understand you don’t need to make it perfect just make it cool.
Uncle Tony’s XJ Garage lol. I love it. So simple so basic.
If your build rules allow for fabrication, would it be possible to flip the springs, reweld the spring perches and get to asymmetrical geometry? Carrol Shelby said "too much horsepower is not the problem, too little traction is"
Geometry is fine. Axle flip will do wonders.
Tony cool video I like all your innovations try this and that. But I do believe in my state”Pa” you have to run the factory rear wiper blade but maybe not in Florida. I will be looking for the next video Thanks
With such a narrow power band, a lower gear would help. Some XJs did have 4.10s from factory. Not sure if there was anything lower.
I knew an Old timer, that would take the back shackle,swap sides and flip it backwarsds. It moves the rear location up and in.
That other axle,absorbed some of the 39 hp we was working with.
Tell Dr. We got to spin the crank faster. I think there is tractor, clutch disc couple inches smaller with that spline.
Dodge Neon injectors work well. Instead of 4 hole "outlets," they have 8 or 16 holes. Made a huge difference in daily driving in my Rubicon TJ drivability and performance. Cheap enough at the salvage yard
XJs are cool.
I did a little research and found another of cool factory “option” that was available for the 4X2 XJ that was available. Manual steering and brakes. That would be worth a little more weight savings and free up a little power. There’s probably a sweet spot in late eighties where so many government agencies or other fleets thar used XJs that you could find a very spartan model that would make a really fun similar project. It’d be fun to do one with the 4.0 258 stroker 4.7 to see what it could do once set up to get some traction.
Never stop making that kind of stuff, you're the only one who dares trying to innovate and learn while everybody is so afraid to fail!! Always fun to follow your projects!
Battery is a bit of a monster, maybe a smaller one in the back behind the axle? Very few XJs here in England, but an interesting project.
I was wondering early on if you were going to bind the leaf springs..
I know it's from a different year xj but you could put the 4.2 crank and rods into the stock 4.0 and make a "stroker". It would look stock sound stock and be made with a factory xj part.
how about all that windshield washer fluid and rad overflow ?
XJ is a Legend
The front shocks should be loose by now but maybe new factory HD rear shocks ?
Sometimes you gotta go back before going forward. In the mid 90’s I had a respectably fast car. Then I built a stroker motor with ported heads and it was a rocket ship. Then I went crazy and opened up the heads as big as they would go totally the wrong way essentially ruining them and added a stupidly big cam. The well crafted combination I had was lost and that new engine was a pooch. It was so slow I never bothered to take it to the track. I was 19 at the time. Live and learn.
I fully support your xj obsession, and I think people need to chill out. Last time I checked it was Uncle Tony's Garage, not subscribers garage. Xj's are brilliant. I love the other content too, but like you I have seasons of obsession so I know how it is. I learn something new every time you put out a video, and I am very grateful
You can't hand the keys to anybody because not everybody can drive a standard especially these days
Shoot, not even some older folks can drive 3 on the tree. Millennial here with a 70 Oldsmobile F85. Guy who was transporting it Gave up trying to figure it out. Had to teach the next guy to drive it in order to ship it.
Probably, the best current anti-theft device, today!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
GenX'r here i didnt own an automatic until my 30's mostly fox bodies and trucks, and alotbof them were raced. stick shifts are an overrated fascination of generations that havent experienced them. unless you popping 7-10K for a real stick shift like a G-Force101-a or a Liberty's equalizer a built automatic is the way to go. theyre also quicker and morebconsistant and less parts breakage.
love these videos 😁
When I put a pinion snubber on my 340 Dart it made a huge difference. Too bad the xj didn't come with a factory snubber option. Lol
I may end up fabbing one
The back seat and seat-rest are easy to remove. There are levers to remove the seat base then you can just pop the backrest out. Put them back in when you need them.. Takes about 60 seconds to pull the seat..
Use a Dremel style tool and cut a helix in the throttle body. I did that for our street legal mud racer ( speed pit). It made a big difference.
She needs a limited slip to really slap. SUCH a fun project! LOL Kiwi on the cam voiceover