NA Miata Rear Subframe Upgrades - I Broke It!
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- Опубліковано 22 вер 2020
- *Insert Bad Luck Brian Meme here*. Somehow I managed to break the rear subframe on my K swapped NA Miata, and now it's time to finally fix all of the issues I've been having with it over the years. None of them were really show stopping issues, but the diff carrier bolt decided to not do it's job anymore after the 3.63 install, so now it all needs to be replaced for real. I'm also taking this opportunity to install some chromoly lower control arms, and a full set of sleeved bushings for maximum suspension actuation and no bind! This is a prime example of "If it breaks, upgrade it". This should be the same on any NA or NB Miata!
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Great job. Love that miata. K + turbo will be awesome. Very hyped on this build.
It should be a beast! Thanks for the support!
Great tech. My 94 NA8 project is getting alot of ideas from your channel. Thanks for sharing.
Glad we could help!
I really liked the video (length and content) - nice explanations of each step and why you're doing it. Looking forward to your boosted K-swap. Keep up the great work.
Thanks!!
When I need to pop a brake line and want to prevent losing a ton of fluid, i just lightly bend a few inches of the line upwards. It will still drip, but usually a lot less. Also you could probably just get a union and put a plug on one end (we used to sell them at Advance) and keep that handy if you need to do this often. Also you can make a plug out of a normal brake nut and a BB.
Loving the content and the pace of the how-to videos. I got my camera back if you guys ever need a second hand filming!
Good idea!
Oh the famous “While I’m in there.....”. And then, oh look I’m broke again!
It’s my favorite rabbit hole!
@@NappMotorsports yeah, this is why i save a pile of money and do research all winter and then go on a buy-all-frenzie in jan-feb to mount in march on a few weekends.. it's very nice to do alot at the same time (not for troubleshooting though, but that's another thing)
Actually with polyurethane bushing is not necessary to load the suspension to reach the point 0 and tightening the bolts. You can tighten them in any position since with that kind of bushing the metal inside the polyurethane will be solid with the bolt (and the subframe) and the polyurethane will rotate freely with the arm. The stock rubber bushing has a solid connection rubber-metal so you can actually preload them by tightening the bolts in a wrong position.
In a perfect world yes, and same could be said for the suspension I just installed. However what I’ve noticed with the poly is that the inner sleeve isn’t any longer than the bushing, so when you tighten the bolts in the subframe, it also clamps down on the poly, which is where I’m getting my bind. It seems to be the same for everyone I’ve talked to around here. Either way, it takes an extra 10 minutes to set it down on ramps and tighten it fully loaded just for peace of mind.
I really like the wash-out-the-weaknesses-attitude!.. it would be nice if those bushings and control arms are available for others to buy, if you could put a link to where to find them ?
They were made in a batch. I’m not sure if he’s planning on making more. I can ask him when I’m back in town next week.
Ugh, I need to do the bushings on mine, 208K miles on them.
There’s a slick diy tool you can make to extract bushings really easily. We’ll likely do Dylan’s at some point this winter and I’ll make an episode on it.
@@NappMotorsports ya I've done them lots of times before, I'm just being lazy. lol
What spring rates do you run on your billies? How do you like the ride? Ill be doing some soon
These are custom valved Bilsteins by Whitener Racing Down in Texas, so it’s not an exact comparison to OTS Bilsteins, but! 800# fronts and 600# rears, extended top hats, allstar performance collars and adjusters, and fatcat bump stops (I think). They ride nice, but they’re set up for a Hoosier level Autocross car (I took them off of my Hoosier car a couple years ago) so they’re very stiff. I’m going to be taking them out this winter and shipping them back to Dave to have him revalve them, and then I’ll likely run 600/650 fronts and 400/450 rears as a street/light track setup. Should be much nicer on the back.
Did you consider seam welding the replacement subframe? Not sure if it is relevant, however.
I didn’t. It’s still a street car, so and chassis flex that might be coming from there is almost welcome. Any sort of seam welding or stitch welding would make the whole car super rigid.
I have a similar clunk that you describe after hitting a curb with the right rear. What did you find broken after removing the diff and subframe?
My clunk was because the threaded rod that you tighten the nut onto for the diff bushings had stripped and I couldn’t actually clamp the diff.
-1.5 rear camber what caster and toe?......& what is your camber/caster/toe set up for front....another video?
Rear doesn’t have caster, but overall my specs are:
Front:
-2.3* Camber
5* Caster
1/16” Toe Out (up to 1/8” is ok with me, toe is total too)
Rear:
-1.5* Camber
0 Toe (or if any, 1/16” Total In for stability)
What is the Jack your using? :D
Quickjacks! The 5000’s. They’re awesome.
No rear swaybar?
I come from an Autocross background where rear sway bar = bad in miatas. Once you go stiff enough spring rates, it can be removed. I may throw one in though at some point now that I have the option.