Not to 'throw shade' but if you are looking to do B&W pre-shading for candies, start that step after priming and before metalizing. Do the black just the same but then use some white on low pressure at the highlight spot and work your way out getting a gradient, use knowledge derived from prior B&W metal spoon studies for proportions and how each metal differs from the different bases. then apply an even coat of the metal and transparent. this will give you a much more realistic volume. It still ignores real shadowing which involves color shading and light source locating but gives a bit of the hyperrealistic that lets you change poses without concern for shadows. Love that you are putting these videos out. Best of luck.
NO WAYYYY!!!! Congrats on the airbrush!!!! I loooooove those airbrushes!! Be sure to keep us up to date on how she runs! Those are some nice preshading jobs. I can’t wait to do my next candy paint job, and revisit my technique.... keep up the great work my man!!!
Nice but I wouldn't be using black for pre-shading. Use a darker shade of the top-coat colour. A darker red/brown for the Candy Red and a dark blue for the Candy Blue. Pre-shading in back is much to stark and there's almost now blending from dark to light areas. An alternative might be to do your pre-shding in black, but apply it first, underneath your candy silver base coat. The shade would be a lot more subtle that way.
looks really cool effect just purchased the Iwata Hi Line HP-CH 0.3mm, go to save for the Iwata Smart Jet Pro Auto Compressor and extraction booth i was going to go with the infinity airbrush same as yours couldnt decide, cant wait to start using it for cool effects on my models thanks for the inspiration awsum video yet again Rex :)
Its better when you paint red the shadow use brown/dark brown. When blue the main color put dark purple as a shadow and the shadow depent on the main color. Sorry im not try to be smart or anything just share my experience. Thnks for the vidio and nice ab i hv it too.
Hmmmm I could see shading in gold see what that looks like. For your test pieces you should look in dollar stores find robots or even those cheap sets of construction equipment to use as test subjects at a buck can't be beat. I found a big cheap plastic robot toy at a yard sale and I practiced on that thing when I first got my airbrushes. I painted stripped it down repainted it so many times trying out new things I lost count. I still have it around somewhere I might have to find it get creative and kit bash it turn it into something splendid for all the help it gave me.
For candy color pre-shading; especially on metallic background, you may want to use Clear Smoke so that it looks more subtle but I suppose you maybe just trying to exaggerate the effect so that it is easier to see. Amazing Airbrush but I find the Infinite quite unpractical though... I have one, dont really use it because it looks sooo pretty hence I find myself spending more time wiping it than using it 🤣.... bought an Evolution as my daily driver not too long after. If you can get use to controlling Airflow by how much you press the trigger down, you dont even need the airflow valve.
I had to send it back. My finger kept hitting the pai t bowl and was affecting my using it. I'm still shopping for a H&S airbrush that will fit my finger. I will get one soon
Really sucks that the clear blue paint cap looks like a really amazing blue that I would want to use but after you see it in action like in your video its not how the cap looks at all. it has a lot of teal in the color
It will be hard in the Vallejos to get something like the tamiya clears. If you took the gloss medium that Vallejo makes, and add it to some of their transparent colored paints, you'd be in the ballpark.
@@element4studios Thank you for the heads up! Would you recommend a different brand that might be closer? I'm looking for something in a dropper bottle
@@mitchhoney2862 Ammo by Mig has clear colors and I just tested Inspire brand H2O clear colors and they're great. Search Inspire H2O paint and you'll find them
Nope, the black hard edg8ing people call pre-shading is so wrong I'm surprised it's lasted so long in the hobby. Shading is done by light and a model will shade itself just nicely depending on the light angle. Pre-shading should be done with the same color darkend 2-3 shades over the base color then color cleared over it for a more natural look. You'll never see vehicles normally outlined in black to produce an effect unless it was done purposely. With the black the darkened edges look unnatural. Great video regardless and love that new brush you have.
100% agree. As a photographer I am also surprised by the number of peoples painting only with zenital highlighting when this one is working more to emphasize eyes and cheek bones rather than a simple 45 degree angle butterfly/paramount light pattern wich could be much more flattering for a lot of figurine. It is like if they wanted every single details to be crisp when rather you should emphasize some of them and let the volume of the model speak itself.
Not to 'throw shade' but if you are looking to do B&W pre-shading for candies, start that step after priming and before metalizing. Do the black just the same but then use some white on low pressure at the highlight spot and work your way out getting a gradient, use knowledge derived from prior B&W metal spoon studies for proportions and how each metal differs from the different bases. then apply an even coat of the metal and transparent. this will give you a much more realistic volume. It still ignores real shadowing which involves color shading and light source locating but gives a bit of the hyperrealistic that lets you change poses without concern for shadows. Love that you are putting these videos out. Best of luck.
Instablaster
Thank you for this I always wanted to know how to do it, thank you 🤘
I'm also just wanting to learn how for some wood working projects you have alot of info packed in your vids thanks
NO WAYYYY!!!! Congrats on the airbrush!!!! I loooooove those airbrushes!! Be sure to keep us up to date on how she runs! Those are some nice preshading jobs. I can’t wait to do my next candy paint job, and revisit my technique.... keep up the great work my man!!!
Thanks buddy, tons more of these to come. 👍
@@barbatosrex9473 Can't wait to see what you come up with!
can you do pre-shade with acrylic paints, like the Vallejo?
Nice but I wouldn't be using black for pre-shading. Use a darker shade of the top-coat colour. A darker red/brown for the Candy Red and a dark blue for the Candy Blue. Pre-shading in back is much to stark and there's almost now blending from dark to light areas.
An alternative might be to do your pre-shding in black, but apply it first, underneath your candy silver base coat. The shade would be a lot more subtle that way.
I find using a black shadow on candy finish too harsh. Try using clear black instead.
Any tips on protecting that paint job during assembly? I cannot for the life of me keep it from chipping.
You'll want to put a good clear on top of you're having trouble. A 2K clear is even better as it is mega durable
What's the reason for not using tamiya silver and black?
Can I ask what you used to seal these ? They look fantastic
I'm doing the Gunship for Metroid Prime 3 and I'll be using this method. Both red and orange.
looks really cool effect just purchased the Iwata Hi Line HP-CH 0.3mm, go to save for the Iwata Smart Jet Pro Auto Compressor and extraction booth i was going to go with the infinity airbrush same as yours couldnt decide, cant wait to start using it for cool effects on my models thanks for the inspiration awsum video yet again Rex :)
Good luck buddy, keep me updated 👍
Hey Barbatos, can I use smoke color as well? Or jet exhaust as a shading paint?
Absolutely
painting with lacquer while using a spray booth does that area/room still smell of paint or does it do a good job at removing most of it?
Barely any smell. I find enamels smell the worst. Takes a day for those to go away but with my spray booth I don't have any lingering smells
Its better when you paint red the shadow use brown/dark brown. When blue the main color put dark purple as a shadow and the shadow depent on the main color. Sorry im not try to be smart or anything just share my experience. Thnks for the vidio and nice ab i hv it too.
Hmmmm I could see shading in gold see what that looks like. For your test pieces you should look in dollar stores find robots or even those cheap sets of construction equipment to use as test subjects at a buck can't be beat. I found a big cheap plastic robot toy at a yard sale and I practiced on that thing when I first got my airbrushes. I painted stripped it down repainted it so many times trying out new things I lost count. I still have it around somewhere I might have to find it get creative and kit bash it turn it into something splendid for all the help it gave me.
For candy color pre-shading; especially on metallic background, you may want to use Clear Smoke so that it looks more subtle but I suppose you maybe just trying to exaggerate the effect so that it is easier to see.
Amazing Airbrush but I find the Infinite quite unpractical though... I have one, dont really use it because it looks sooo pretty hence I find myself spending more time wiping it than using it 🤣.... bought an Evolution as my daily driver not too long after. If you can get use to controlling Airflow by how much you press the trigger down, you dont even need the airflow valve.
Great call, I have smoke too. I did go real bold for the video on purpose but I will be doing the smoke for my personal kit.
looking for x27 equivalent in spray!
Did you review the Infinity airbrush? I couldn't find a video for it on your channel.
I had to send it back. My finger kept hitting the pai t bowl and was affecting my using it. I'm still shopping for a H&S airbrush that will fit my finger. I will get one soon
Is the Mr. Color Black a gloss black? I'm not familiar with Mr. Color to know.
Gloss Black. I will be doing a video test on Mr Color in a few days. Be sure to watch, it's my favorite paint. I'll show how I thin and paint them
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank you. Im looking forward to that video.
Great video
Thanks!
I'm fairly new to the hobby, what is the shading for? Is it necessary? I just want to paint the body of a r34 z tune in candy red
The shading is mostly for Gundam's. The black goes into the corners and crevices before adding the top color giving it a whole new look
@@barbatosrex9473 oh okay. Thank you I appreciate the reply!
Do you thin the clear red or blue before you
Air brush ?
Yes, if it's not pre thinned then I always thin my lacquers. At least 50/50
where did you get the whole gaia evangelion line?
A friend sent it to me directly from Japan. You can't get them here in the US at all
Do you mix thinner with the tamiya clear paint ?
I do thin it with Mr Leveling Thinner about 70/30 paint to thinner.
can you spray tamiya acrylics over vellejo primer?
Yes
any recommended water based clear paints that go well with Vallejo metal colors?
Mr Hobby Aqueous, AK 3rd Generation, Ammo by Mig. and Tamiya. Tamiya and Mr the Aqueous are my recommendations
@@barbatosrex9473 thanks. will check it out
Really sucks that the clear blue paint cap looks like a really amazing blue that I would want to use but after you see it in action like in your video its not how the cap looks at all. it has a lot of teal in the color
Would those X-23/27 Tamiya paints be classed as washes? glazes? trying to find a Vallejo equivalent. thanks
It will be hard in the Vallejos to get something like the tamiya clears. If you took the gloss medium that Vallejo makes, and add it to some of their transparent colored paints, you'd be in the ballpark.
@@element4studios Thank you for the heads up! Would you recommend a different brand that might be closer? I'm looking for something in a dropper bottle
@@mitchhoney2862 Ammo by Mig has clear colors and I just tested Inspire brand H2O clear colors and they're great. Search Inspire H2O paint and you'll find them
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank you sir! glad I stumbled across your channel, lots of helpful videos!
Vallejo ink is probably the closest thing but I found they dry more matte than I wanted.
Personally, the blue was much more pleasant for me
Nope, the black hard edg8ing people call pre-shading is so wrong I'm surprised it's lasted so long in the hobby. Shading is done by light and a model will shade itself just nicely depending on the light angle. Pre-shading should be done with the same color darkend 2-3 shades over the base color then color cleared over it for a more natural look. You'll never see vehicles normally outlined in black to produce an effect unless it was done purposely. With the black the darkened edges look unnatural. Great video regardless and love that new brush you have.
100% agree. As a photographer I am also surprised by the number of peoples painting only with zenital highlighting when this one is working more to emphasize eyes and cheek bones rather than a simple 45 degree angle butterfly/paramount light pattern wich could be much more flattering for a lot of figurine. It is like if they wanted every single details to be crisp when rather you should emphasize some of them and let the volume of the model speak itself.
That dumb little valve is a piece of German engineering and I have one on all my H&S airbrushes