www.buymeacoffee.com/davosshed If you like watching my UA-cam channel or just watched a single video that helped you out why not buy me a coffee. I’d really appreciate it. Consider subscribing if you haven’t already or simply drop me a comment to say hi or suggest a topic that I may like to cover. 🤠
Hi Stephen, Glad it helped. I can never tell which videos will be popular. I’m glad this one helped you. Please subscribe if you didn’t already, it really helps the channel. It’s a long way to 1000 🤠
I've done this today on a 2030 with a 1" shaft. The oil level was at the low mark on the dipstick and I reversed the rear wheels onto timber 250mm (10") high, removed the rear drain plug and drained 6L from the housing. You need a hooked 'pick' to remove and aid installing the seals - I forged one from a small screwdriver and filed the point blunt. If the seals have not previously been changed, you will find an o-ring under them which needs hooking out too but should not need replacing as the new nylon seals are deeper. It was very fiddly and not worth warming the seals as they cool down rapidly and it will take a few minutes to get them in! I found the following method successful; Push the shaft in so it just clears the inner housing. Push the seal in and try to get part of it seated in the groove, the rest will bulge and push the bulge up against the end of the shaft then carefully tap the shaft back so it is pushing the bulge while using the pick to work the remaining seal into the groove. It will partly seat but will need more persuasion with the pick. It's very fiddly and try and be patient! Good luck!
Sounds like your experience was different to mine. Well done getting it sorted! I have a hydraulic line to replace now. I’ll try and video that. I picked the part yesterday at nearly $500. I’m just waiting on a couple of large spanners arriving as the fittings are bigger than anything I have (except for a 15” shifter 🤠)
Thanks! You never know which way your life may turn. :) I like watching a guy who makes stuff out of cast iron. I doubt I will ever do that but I enjoy watching his channel.
Thank you. I am going to attempt the same on my 2030 this week but am going to reverse the tractor onto some timbers in the hope that I won't have to drain too much oil out!
Worth a try but stay safe. I’d say it would need to be really steep to work. It might be more trouble than just draining it out. Get hold of some nice clean drums anyway. Let me know how it goes 🤠
@@charlestibbey2666 Did you end up draining the oil out? You wouldn’t believe it, mine sprung a new leak in a steel hydraulic pipe yesterday. One of the pipes down by the brake pedal has a dent and a tiny split in the seam. That’s not going to be cheap 🤠
The figure 8 twist is for installing the O rings behind the seals, not the square outer seals you replaced. There is an O ring further in that should be changed when changing the square seals.
That’s interesting information It’s still going ok but I’ll keep that in mind if it happens again. I think I got that figure 8 tip from a retired JD mechanic. Can’t remember exactly. Thanks for the tip.
It was a bit of a leap of faith for me as well. Ya never know what king of hornets nest you are about to open up. As it turned out there was no surprises but I’m glad I videoed it so other people can see. I’m actually surprised how many people have watched this one. It just passed 4000 views which is pretty good for me. Thanks for letting me know. 🤠
Your welcome. I don’t get a lot of views or comments so it’s great to get feedback especially positive ;) Sometimes it feels like it’s just my mum watching. :)
@@DavoShed Thanks is the least I can do. If you are looking for more views get into social media and advertise your channel. I found your channel because I was specifically looking for this type of repair for my tractor, otherwise I probably wouldn't have found your channel. You just earned a subscriber. Good luck!
Check out the forum link in the description. Don’t reply to that thread but ask your own specific question in a new thread. A retired JD mechanic gave me some pointers and the courage to pull my tractor apart. Nice people hang around that forum and they generally know what they are talking about. I don’t know anything about an 820 From a quick Google the pictures look fairly similar. The shaft on mine is part of a “Depth Control” mechanism. If the 820 does not have that it may be different design. Although if you are leaking oil from the same place it must have a seal in there. Get onto the JD web site and find the parts list for your tractor. It will have an exploded view diagram showing all the parts in there. Good luck :)
www.buymeacoffee.com/davosshed
If you like watching my UA-cam channel or just watched a single video that helped you out why not buy me a coffee. I’d really appreciate it.
Consider subscribing if you haven’t already or simply drop me a comment to say hi or suggest a topic that I may like to cover. 🤠
Thanks for this video. Got the same problem. Thanks for the info.
Hi Stephen,
Glad it helped. I can never tell which videos will be popular. I’m glad this one helped you.
Please subscribe if you didn’t already, it really helps the channel. It’s a long way to 1000 🤠
I've done this today on a 2030 with a 1" shaft. The oil level was at the low mark on the dipstick and I reversed the rear wheels onto timber 250mm (10") high, removed the rear drain plug and drained 6L from the housing. You need a hooked 'pick' to remove and aid installing the seals - I forged one from a small screwdriver and filed the point blunt. If the seals have not previously been changed, you will find an o-ring under them which needs hooking out too but should not need replacing as the new nylon seals are deeper. It was very fiddly and not worth warming the seals as they cool down rapidly and it will take a few minutes to get them in! I found the following method successful; Push the shaft in so it just clears the inner housing. Push the seal in and try to get part of it seated in the groove, the rest will bulge and push the bulge up against the end of the shaft then carefully tap the shaft back so it is pushing the bulge while using the pick to work the remaining seal into the groove. It will partly seat but will need more persuasion with the pick. It's very fiddly and try and be patient! Good luck!
Sounds like your experience was different to mine. Well done getting it sorted!
I have a hydraulic line to replace now. I’ll try and video that. I picked the part yesterday at nearly $500. I’m just waiting on a couple of large spanners arriving as the fittings are bigger than anything I have (except for a 15” shifter 🤠)
I'm probably never going to need this info but someone out there will. Good job.
Thanks!
You never know which way your life may turn. :)
I like watching a guy who makes stuff out of cast iron. I doubt I will ever do that but I enjoy watching his channel.
Thank you. I am going to attempt the same on my 2030 this week but am going to reverse the tractor onto some timbers in the hope that I won't have to drain too much oil out!
Worth a try but stay safe. I’d say it would need to be really steep to work. It might be more trouble than just draining it out. Get hold of some nice clean drums anyway.
Let me know how it goes 🤠
Done it successfully! Thanks so much - I'll post another comment to assist others!@@DavoShed
@@charlestibbey2666
Did you end up draining the oil out?
You wouldn’t believe it, mine sprung a new leak in a steel hydraulic pipe yesterday. One of the pipes down by the brake pedal has a dent and a tiny split in the seam. That’s not going to be cheap 🤠
I only needed to drain 6L! Try brazing the hole? keeping 45 year-old tractors going is a never-ending task!@@DavoShed
@charlestibbey2666
John Deer still stock the part $475AU!
Well done getting yours sorted.
The figure 8 twist is for installing the O rings behind the seals, not the square outer seals you replaced. There is an O ring further in that should be changed when changing the square seals.
That’s interesting information
It’s still going ok but I’ll keep that in mind if it happens again. I think I got that figure 8 tip from a retired JD mechanic. Can’t remember exactly. Thanks for the tip.
I found the new JD nylon seal was deeper than the one removed so the o-ring was not needed!@@DavoShed
Thanks for that put my mind at ease jx80
It was a bit of a leap of faith for me as well. Ya never know what king of hornets nest you are about to open up.
As it turned out there was no surprises but I’m glad I videoed it so other people can see.
I’m actually surprised how many people have watched this one. It just passed 4000 views which is pretty good for me.
Thanks for letting me know. 🤠
Thanks! This helped me with my 2355.
Your welcome.
I don’t get a lot of views or comments so it’s great to get feedback especially positive ;)
Sometimes it feels like it’s just my mum watching. :)
@@DavoShed Thanks is the least I can do. If you are looking for more views get into social media and advertise your channel. I found your channel because I was specifically looking for this type of repair for my tractor, otherwise I probably wouldn't have found your channel. You just earned a subscriber. Good luck!
Hope my 820 is similar. Thank you
Check out the forum link in the description.
Don’t reply to that thread but ask your own specific question in a new thread.
A retired JD mechanic gave me some pointers and the courage to pull my tractor apart.
Nice people hang around that forum and they generally know what they are talking about.
I don’t know anything about an 820
From a quick Google the pictures look fairly similar. The shaft on mine is part of a “Depth Control” mechanism. If the 820 does not have that it may be different design.
Although if you are leaking oil from the same place it must have a seal in there.
Get onto the JD web site and find the parts list for your tractor. It will have an exploded view diagram showing all the parts in there.
Good luck :)
You must have stolen that pick from the horse dentist!!
Nah, Oliver has a grinder.
I can’t say too much as he may be a subscriber ;)