Haas 3D Sensor by Haimer - Haas Automation, Inc.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- Finding edges, corners, and hole centers doesn't get much easier than with the Haas Universal 3D Sensor, by Haimer. The Haimer 3D Sensor is well-known and loved by machinists around the world for accurate measurements and easily setting your offsets. Mark tells us what's great about this accurate and useful tool that you can buy direct on HaasTooling.com
Check out Mark's "Manual Tool Setters" TOD video:
• Tool Offsets and Manua...
Here are links to the 3D Sensor and Sensor Kit pages:
www.haascnc.co...
www.haascnc.co...
Don’t miss any Haas videos. Click here: www.haascnc.co...
Need more reasons why you should consider a Haas? Check this out: www.haascnc.co...
If you enjoyed this video, please hit the like button and share it with a friend who’ll find it helpful . . . and thanks!
Follow Haas:
Facebook - / haasautomationinc
Instagram - / haas_automation
Twitter - / haas_automation
LinkedIn - / haas-automation
Code: PFCOIU5DD4FH8OA7
Buying a Haimer was the best investment I made after I bought my Mini Mill. It made my setup faster and easier.
One thing that you need to keep in mind and I thing you should highlight. If you are using it as a dial indicator on rough parts/mill scale you will wear the tip a lot as it is only steel. I have found that dialing in mill scaled parts you can easily wear over a .001" of a inch off the ball in very short amount of time and that will throw off you zero a substantial amount!
Maybe there’s ruby tips for them idk
You are absolutely correct. I wore my last tip within a couple of months. They should make one with a solid carbide tip or ruby. I know for a fact Tschorn now has a solid carbide tip.
@@isra950China sellers are selling ruby tips, don't know how good they are but could be worth testing out since the price is also only like $20. I would take some time to evaluate the dimensional accuracy of a china tip as well.
“Both x, y, and z” :)
Lol. I actually googled this after we shot the video. And yes, it makes no sense. It sounded good at the time. :)
@@markterryberry4477 I love your videos Mark, I've learned so much from you, thanks
@@markterryberry4477
Actually you're right, 2 planes ( X-Y ) and Z, most machinist talk that way so they would understand what you're saying. 😉😁
@@ytfan3815 :) that’s exactly how it happened too. In my script I’d written XY, and Z. But, when filming we decided to switch it up in order to better explain it graphically. Funny how I painted myself into a corner with that sentence structure though. I got stuck.
Hey! I haas one of those!
I use mine with a 40 taper all the time! Its awesome!
I absolutely love these devices. They have literally cut my setup time in half!!
This is a great tool, didn’t see it before brand named Haas but haimer and it will really make your job easier
I'm still an edge finder and dial indicator guy from the 80s. BUT I can see how much faster and less problems this would be. Just add a dial tool length setter and you are just as fast as a renishaw. I think I may get one for teaching what we call the "Old school" setup procedure
we just added 2 of these
Way to be a salesman Mark.
Probes, TSC, and the 3D sensor - I’m a big fan and will put on the salesman hat for them in a second ;). They were on my wishlist whenever we were looking at new machines. There are always some dedicated jobs/machines that they might not make $ sense for, but they’ve really become a part of my process.
Thousands of dollars cheaper than Renishaw yet only slightly slower. After using my Haimer 3D Sensor for a few months, I abandoned all interest in upgrading my Mini Mill 2 to WIPS. However, tool breakage detection in code would be nice. For home hobby CNC users like myself, the 3D sensor is worth every cent. Be sure to calibrate after replacing probes. I'm surprised the Haas-branded sensor is competitively priced at $400.
Big difference is you can use the renishaw to automate production, check products, set ref points etc. I reckon over time the Renishaw will save you money.
These units sell for 300-350ish from other sellers.
@@WasNiksIsNiksWordtNiks A different brand maybe?
@@markterryberry4477 No, private label Haimer. Several different brands/sellers sell them for less than $400,-.
😂 bro they took haimers tool (only people that make them other than 1 shitty brand) and slapped haas on it and raised the price, it is not competitively priced I got mine for 300$. Are you from haas or something ? And WIPS is way more accurate and faster depending on the user than this, this is good for a small shop or at home only not industrial high pace manufacturing
I would love if you guys create a video on manually indicating centerline of rotation on the 4th axis of a horizontal cnc.
THERE VERY NICE I USE ALL THE TIME
I love this tool
renishaw probe and never look back
This is good tool
If you break a tip epoxy it back together as best you can. Use it for single axis tramming ONLY. Save the new one for 3ax and edge finding.
Will you be bring out a metric one
Ryan, the metric version 3D Sensor should be available on our website by Mid-August.
Hmm actually found out that something in my spindel was wrong by using on of these. Had always a bad milling picture and through it i did see that the tool/sk40 was slightly off..
How come on my 2004 HAAS SL30 Lathe I CANNOT manually jog a tool to a programmed work position from G54.
How come on my 1987 Hitachi Lathe I CAN manually jog a tool to a programmed work position from G54.
And how come everytime I ask this HAAS either doesn't respond or changes my question entirely?
The behavior you are talking about, where the control automatically takes the tool and Work Offsets into account when jogging around, was not implemented until NGC Software, version 100.21.000.1100.
Your 2004 SL Lathe has the Classic Haas Control, and not the Next Gen Control, and we can not upgrade the software on this machine to get the behavior you would like.
On these older lathes, we will need to get creative.
If our part has already been faced, we can
1) Command the tool to X0ZO (T101; G54 G0 X0. Z0.; M30)
2) Press MEM, and then HAND JOG, this will reset our DISTANCE TO GO, on our Position Page
We can then use our Distance To Go value just like a Digital Readout (DRO) on a Manual machine.
I show how we can zero-out our Distance To Go value in this video here, ua-cam.com/video/A7CwqjU2wg8/v-deo.html
That video is working on a Mill, not a Lathe, but the concept is the same.
Again, when in Hand Jog Mode, we can press MEM, then Hand Jog, and it will zero out our Distance To Go position, and because we started at our G54 Zero, then all of our values will now be from G54 X0 Z0.
This is a good topic. We'll put it on our list and look at making a video that covers it directly.
@@markterryberry4477 Yeah I already started to do what you are describing the day I realized I could not jog in absolute regardless of what I looked for in the manual/settings/parameters/forums/social media... You see I like to check things...all things... So now I know you know how many times I am going into mdi to call up G54 to call up the tool#&offset# that is definitely the correct tool#&offset# already in cutting position of the turret that's at Z0. cause if it isn't 😇...
👍👍👍
Can I use the longer 8mm or any size if I buy the standard .200 ? Please explain.
Is it possible to do interpolation turning on haas vf-2?
Cool to see these offered. Wonder if there's really any point to get one if you're already got the Renishaw WIPS package? Or is this more the budget "Toolroom" alternative?
I would say definitely the second one. If you need to use it as an indicator, just buy an indicator. Unless you really want an analog backup "just in case", but 340-360€ is quite a lot for that. A good use would be for the apprentice to make him pay attention and learn how to set offsets before giving him the renishaw... just thinking
These are great on a tool room mill or no probe cnc, but a reni is better all day. But, this thing can probe weird stuff if you think it over for a while
They are a good backup to have in case you wreck your renishaw. One in a shop should be good enough. You're not supposed to wreck your renishaw but if you or an employee does, this can help in a pinch.
Or dunno, you run out of batteries or something.
Great
One things i want to know how about single side workplan? like edge finder touch x then enter half diameter.then this tools can?
Yes. It can find a single edge, without the need to enter in half the diameter though. No need to add or subtract anything when finding the edge of a part.
Thank you sir for your information.
I use one for the tormach. I love it! Does the NGC offer any safety features, like preventing the spindle from turning on when it’s in the spindle?
Good question Chad, Mark recently did a short Tip of the Day video on the new NGC "Max Speed" setting where you can set a spindle speed of zero for a specific tool you don't want to rotate. Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/PmtC1PPA1vk/v-deo.html
Is there one that ypu could recommend that is smaller? To use on a CNC router for example with a shank no larger than 1/2"?
There are other options, Haimer 3D sensor NG (12mm shank) and Haimer Universal 3D Sensor Mini (10mm shank), you can search for them in their website
these are great tools, wondering if it could be used to indicate an ID boring tool on a SL 20 Lathe?
Hey Mark, I’ve converted the new shop in at (~20+ VF machines in various sizes) from wigglers to haimers. They won’t jump for probing yet but I really want to convince them on getting an offline tool setter as everyone currently just uses a slip of paper. My problem is I haven’t found a good way to use the haimer in conjunction with positive gauge lengths to set Z zero, could you go through that workflow? I was thinking I’ll need a custom macro that stores the haimer length and offsets the work offset by that amount but our machines don’t have macros either.
I use a haimer in my hurco. I calibrated the haimer to the top of my vise sitting on a 123 block. I then set all my tools to the 123 block and I’m good to go. I’m not if that’s what your talked about but it works for me.
@@Jraksdhs I prefer to roll a gage pin under the tool while going up in Z rather than come down on a 123 block but currently that is the way I do it yes. Everyone else is still using paper. But I am more used to having machines with probes and and my tool lengths being the distance from the spindle nose not some large negative number. I really would like to get our shop on positive tool lengths that could be transferred from machine to machine or measured offline but then setting my Z zero for programs seems a pain
where I work we got a tool taper holder turned, so we can place our tool in that holder and manual measure the height of that tool using with a normal height gauge, when using our 3d sensor we touch off our z and minus the z height of the 3d sensor
I have a tool steel block about 6 inched tall with a 2.0 precision block (123 block) on top of that. I have been setting all my tools to that block.
I bring the tool lower than the block slightly with the block slid back out of the way. Then I slowly raise the head until the block slides under the tool while lightly pushing the block against the tool. ( I also use a 2 inch tall indicator tool setter)Now all my tools are always set 8.0 above the table which is very safe. Then I have a small digital height gage which is zeroed on the 8 inch tool setting block. I measure the height of the work and the difference between the 8 inch setting block and the work is my z work offset. it works great on multiple height offsets from vise to vise. Never set tools on Your work. If you are working on an expensive part and skim the top of Your part and need to change a tool, How will You get it excactly set? Now with this tool the 3 d sensor, I still set my tools to my setting block but use the 3d sensor to set my work height. I bring the sensor down to the setting block and write down the z value. Keep this number as it doesnt change . You only need to check setting block once. Then bring the 3d sensor to the top of your work. The difference between the the 2 numbers is your height work offset. The beuty is that If You forget to enter a work offset, the tools are running 8 inches above the table. Some think this sounds complicated but its not. And any tool in Your carousel is always set. When You change jobs and You use some of the same tools its so easy.
Hello friend, when the letter X is inserted, the command alone creates the zero along with the X, how do I change that which is the parameters.
Any plans to offer the Centro or replacement tips?
If only I could afford one but I'm a poor student
Epic
How do you set the z up on these?
💯
“Doors open!” Sure. Sure. The new Haas safety crap won’t even let me turn the coolant or chip remover on with the doors open.
Hence… the homemade shim override.
A piece of bent up banding in the correct spot and you're working with doors open.
Out if stock😢
redsixonefive, just checked stock on the basic 3D sensor itself. Over 900 in stock. Follow this link and Add To Cart and it will show the present in stock quantity. There are also large stock levels on the 3D Sensor Kits that come with a toolholder. www.haascnc.com/haas-tooling/measuring_inspection/09-0034.html
p̾r̾o̾m̾o̾s̾m̾ 😊
Out of stock
tung nguyen, just checked stock on the basic 3D sensor itself. Over 900 in stock. Follow this link and Add To Cart and it will show the present in stock quantity. There are also large stock levels on the 3D Sensor Kits that come with a toolholder. www.haascnc.com/haas-tooling/measuring_inspection/09-0034.html
So a downgraded version of the probe system already available with your machines? WILD MAN YOU GUYS ARE SO FAR AHEAD! Promise you it's definitely not droppable.
Huh, you know you’re looking at Haas machines right? They make budget friendly machines.
You know there wouldn’t be a problem running our edge finders with the door open if you ACTUALLY LET US
Yep, I hear you. Those days are gone and not coming back, I think. I remember running Big Bore lathes, door half-open, peeking in, thinking that if the part was tossed I would just quickly close the door lol. We’d run doors open on mills all day long, with no eye protection but our “safety squints”.
My mom is an art teacher and one of her dear friends/students had been a machinist during the War, and after. He was an older gentleman even in the 80s. He would tell me how a broken tool caught him just right… hence his glass eye.
I had a bad experience with this product - not the Haas version, of course. This was about 4 years ago. When it worked, it was great, but ours was defective. By the time we figured it out, it was too late. Their (Haimer) repair system was insane. I recommend avoiding this brand/product.