I noticed you did not check pressure plate run out or measure relaxed spring lengths and compare to factory spec ? I liked the video , my '65 AJS 350 is similar and i have brought the friction plate count up to 5 , from the factory 3 plates . The clutch lever is set easier to pull in for gear changes . Thanks for this .
Hi Derek. Thanks for the comments. I couldn’t find any mention of measuring runout in the workshop manual. Do you think it’s worth doing if the clutch operates normally? Grateful for your advice. The spring measurement is an excellent point - I did measure them but didn’t mention it in the video. I’ll add that in as soon as I get time, hopefully this weekend. Thanks again, Terry
If the pressure plate does not lift off evenly , uses the kick start to turn the engine over while holding the lever in . loosen the tight screw and/or tighten the others . The gears will change more easily if the pressure plate comes away all at the same time and freeing the clutch in the morning is easier too . No need for measuring , use your eyes only .My clutch springs are all within spec, but they compress differently .@@terryjones6229
A few remarks. Don't rely on that the previous owner had the order of the plates correct, if unsure, check the books. The special tool for the spring nuts can easily be made by grinding an indent to a cheap large screwdriver. Check for wear in the slots in te clutch basket, were the plates engage. In this case though they were fine, but often burred and will result in dodgy engagement.
Hi mate, so the pushrod un the clutch, should it be screwed in tight or have a little play, if you know what i mean? My bije is a 1953 g3l 350 single rigid. Cheers
On my G3L there’s no screwing involved. You just place the clutch rod into the hole, pop in the ball bearing and do everything up. Once it’s in, then the adjustment begins. Use the screw under the cap on the kickstart case for coarse adjustment and the cable adjuster that goes in from the inside to fine tune it. There should be a little bit of movement or play in the lever before you feel the cable go tight, maybe 3-5 mm. The important thing is that when you pull the lever it completely disengages the clutch (no big clunk when you select a gear) and that it doesn’t slip when you pull away. Those symptoms are at the extremes of adjustment. There’s a lot of ‘good enough’ in the adjustment In between
I just started refurbishing a 1944 and your videos are most helpful. Alan. Utah USA
hi. Very cool and useful video for me.
I have an incomplete motorcycle and in the manual not everything is as visible as in your video 👍👍
SUPER!!! Thanks and greatings from Holland
I noticed you did not check pressure plate run out or measure relaxed spring lengths and compare to factory spec ? I liked the video , my '65 AJS 350 is similar and i have brought the friction plate count up to 5 , from the factory 3 plates . The clutch lever is set easier to pull in for gear changes . Thanks for this .
Hi Derek. Thanks for the comments. I couldn’t find any mention of measuring runout in the workshop manual. Do you think it’s worth doing if the clutch operates normally? Grateful for your advice. The spring measurement is an excellent point - I did measure them but didn’t mention it in the video. I’ll add that in as soon as I get time, hopefully this weekend. Thanks again, Terry
If the pressure plate does not lift off evenly , uses the kick start to turn the engine over while holding the lever in . loosen the tight screw and/or tighten the others . The gears will change more easily if the pressure plate comes away all at the same time and freeing the clutch in the morning is easier too . No need for measuring , use your eyes only .My clutch springs are all within spec, but they compress differently .@@terryjones6229
Very useful, thanks
A few remarks. Don't rely on that the previous owner had the order of the plates correct, if unsure, check the books. The special tool for the spring nuts can easily be made by grinding an indent to a cheap large screwdriver. Check for wear in the slots in te clutch basket, were the plates engage. In this case though they were fine, but often burred and will result in dodgy engagement.
Hi mate, so the pushrod un the clutch, should it be screwed in tight or have a little play, if you know what i mean? My bije is a 1953 g3l 350 single rigid. Cheers
On my G3L there’s no screwing involved. You just place the clutch rod into the hole, pop in the ball bearing and do everything up. Once it’s in, then the adjustment begins. Use the screw under the cap on the kickstart case for coarse adjustment and the cable adjuster that goes in from the inside to fine tune it. There should be a little bit of movement or play in the lever before you feel the cable go tight, maybe 3-5 mm. The important thing is that when you pull the lever it completely disengages the clutch (no big clunk when you select a gear) and that it doesn’t slip when you pull away. Those symptoms are at the extremes of adjustment. There’s a lot of ‘good enough’ in the adjustment In between
Do you need to presoak the new friction plates in oil?
Nope - just bung em in.