Washing Machine Outlet Box Plumbing Instructional Video
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- Опубліковано 19 лис 2024
- If you wanted a quick, down and dirty video just giving you basic layout and measurements for a washing machine drain box utilizing an air admittance value vent ... look no further. #washingmachineoutletbox #washingmachine #airadmittancevalve
Most to the point, direct, and clear video I've seen on how the plumbing should be set up for this. Doing mine this week. Thank you!
So glad you found it helpful. Thanks for the feedback.
KISS- keep It Short and Simple. The best seen on this topic on UA-cam. Thanks a lot! You’ve got a new Sub. God bless you....
Thanks! Glad it helped
I haven't seen many posters on UA-cam who were as generous and patient with all the replies to comments - especially with the replies to comments about accessing the AAV. Much appreciated. Good video
Thanks Al. I've never seen a benefit of responding 'in kind' to nasty comments. Never does much good. However, there have been some very productive comments that I have learned from as well. We are all learning. Nobody knows it all right? Especially me! :) Thanks for the positive comment on the video.
I had to build all of that for this new front loading Samsung washer and this is the video that saved the day. Thanks
Great! Thanks mrcead! So glad it helped you out. I created it because I could not find one that quickly explained it.
If you want to help me out please subscribe to my channel. I'm trying to get 1,000 subscribers so the revenue from the commercials UA-cam puts on my videos can come to me! LOL. Thanks again.
Has your machine broken down yet? WHEN you soon need to replace it, breaks and also will soon smell of mold, get a Speed Queen TC5. Not TR. Trust this tip.
Thank you for this video! Super informative and just what I was looking for! I made sure to screen shot the diagram too. :)
Awesome! That is why I made it short and sweet. Glad it helped and got you the information you needed.
Working on the same project, thank you! My house was built in the 60's so I have a 1.5" copper drain/vent pipe to work with unfortunately. It's probably a monster job to retrofit a whole drain network from the existing 1.5" copper to 2" PVC.
Wow! That sounds like a monster job indeed. Are you on a pier and beam floor with the drain going underneath the house into a crawl space? You may end up having to do it regardless if that copper piping is getting bad. I wish you luck my friend.
Scott Wiens Yes it is a crawl space foundation. I think I might as well replace the whole copper setup and attach right into the main drain with PVC so that it passes inspection. The washer beforehand worked fine with the 1.5 copper, but there’s no telling how much longer it will last. Hopefully I won’t have to replace my whole house drain network, right? As far as I know it’s just the washer that needs 2 inch.
Andrew Kaleiki It is always good to do it right and get it done and finished so you do t have to tackle it again. It is only the washer that needs the 2” drain because of the volume of water that can come from the newer washing machine (high volume pumps). Good luck.
Remember you can never go from large to smaller pipe because it restricts flow- major code violation as well. You can often go from small to larger- no restriction. Some VENTS might go from large to small- but def. not water.
About the air admittance value, before installing one you had better check that it is allowed in your area. They are illegal to use in most areas and have to be in a local that can be serviced. Because it is a mechanical device they do have a failure risk and must be in a local were they can be changed. They are sold at big box stores, but should not be used for most applications. Even in areas where they are used it’s generally approved for island sink applications only. Best to check with local building codes before you purchase one.
Absolutely. One thing I did not put in the video but is very important is that once installed, you need to make sure you put an opening in the wall in front of the air admittance valve and put a grill over top of it along with a label indicating what it is. That way, if does need to be replaced you can take the grill off, replace it, and be good to go.
Thsnks Excellent video Great pictures very helpful--
pf1950 glad it helped!
Thank you for the video.. 👍👍
You’re welcome.
Thank for the great video
You are more than welcome. Glad you found it helpful
As roughed in, your Air Admittance Valve will not pass code with it buried in the wall. Code considers AAV's to be consumable tht will need to be replaced. All AAV's must be in an accessable position. Your solution probably won't work, at least not well, with the only air available, being what is contained in that soon to be enclosed stud cavity. Oatly mades a washer box that has 2-2" holes in the box. One for the drain and one for an AAV There are also AAV access boxes that install in the wall.
What I didn’t show in the video was that I put a grill in front of the air admittance valve after I put the drywall on. I added this in the comments later but didn’t put it in the video.
Doesn't that AAV need to be accessible? There's a box made for it for such a purpose.
Yes. I responded in some of the other comments I put a grill in front of it and labeled it after I put the drywall up. So, even if I sell the house people will know that it’s there. And they can simply take the grill off and unscrew it and put a new one in if they need to
Nice work!
Thanks! I appreciate the note.
hey, awesome video, do you have a picture or a link to the grill you used? Thanks in advance
Found them on Amazon. 6" X 6" Steel Return Air Grille | HVAC Vent Cover Grill for Sidewall and Ceiling, White | Outer Dimensions: 7.75"W X 7.75"H for 6x6 Duct Opening www.amazon.com/dp/B088R8P2SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_x-4cGb1FVBPMJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think there's a code where the P trap has to be 6-18 inches off the floor. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Hey David. The code will be specific to your city, county, state. I checked and mine didn’t require that.
Did you sheetrock over the vent or does it have to be accesible
@@besmey No. I cut the vent in so I can access it
I am told by local plumbing inspector these are okay to use in this area as long as there is an open air vent somewhere in the house.
Does this mean the air admittance vent had to connect to the open air vent?
Seems that would to some degree void the use of one.
Btw, he does not recommend one for a washer due to the volume of water when it drains.
I can appreciate what he saying. When I put the drywall on I put a grill in the drywall in front of it so I can access it to change it and it gets lots of air. I will tell you, I’ve had it up there for over a year and there has been no problems. But of course, I used to 2 inch as well. If I had the option to be able to run it up I would have but it just wasn’t an option for me.
We purchased a house with the box behind the washer is installed. The washing machine drain hose is placed in the right hand hole next to the hot and cold water faucets. There is sewer gas coming from the drain. I read that sealing it off is no good.
Is there a way to add an air admittance valve to the drain hose that is not behind the wall ? I don't want to tear out the drywall. There is a product advertised to take care of this but it is not cheap. Thanks
Wow. Yeah, that isn't a good situation. As you saw from the video the sewer gases will come up when you don't have that trap in the drain area. The air admittance value is typically where the plumbing vent is so I don't think it is going to help. Now, is there a crawl space or a basement under the laundry room where the drain comes down? You could put the trap in down there. Otherwise (and I hate to be the bearer of bad news) you will have to take that drywall out. You will want to do this right as sewer gases are not just unpleasant but can be dangerous.
ua-cam.com/video/I6qk5TIpv_4/v-deo.html&ab_channel=STANDPIPESEAL
Call a plumber. NEVER block that inlet. It creates a vacuum and slows or stops water flow. Cover one end of a straw- water stays put. You get the idea. Most P traps (never S) simply go in the wall. removing some drywall neatly (use a level) and then replacing it is easy. I screw wood in to the piece still in the wall so I can screw the old piece back to that and have a strong joint connection. I also cut the top paper off about 1/2 inch on both pieces so it is a smooth seem when I use my filler. Cut a 2" section of the paper and bring it to HD- they can match the pain near prefect. EASY. Do the job ONCE. Do it right. If you don't know, call a plumber. You can install things wrong and make an expensive mess. Get a water detector alarm too- in case things leak.
Question - My current setup is not to code. The washing machine drains fine, has 4 years but has developed a gurgle in the kitchen sink because it's starved for air. Plumber inspected, needs a proper studor valve. Quote for them to do it proper $1750. I asked him off the record, "if this was your house and you weren't a plumber would you fuss with it?"
He said "As long as it's draining proper no"
Here's my question. In theory could I tee off the drain pipe right behind the washer and add standalone pipe for the studor valve. Effectively the reverse of what you have setup here.
Simply adding the tee so air can flow in. Would position the valve higher than the drain hole.
Hey Michael. Thanks for the question. I’m not sure that I understand what your solution would look like. You’re saying tee off the drain line behind the washing machine. Could you explain in more detail what you’re proposing to do starting at the drain from the washing machine?
We bought new home and we don’t know how to open that drainage whole. Which located in the middle of the two water pipe in your video. They said you have to pop up that to open but it’s not happening. The guy who came to drop machine said they have not done properly. Can you please help me I really appreciate your help 🙏
Interesting. Check this video out.
ua-cam.com/video/k10lhxn0Zjw/v-deo.html
Did you fix it finally? Not sure what you meant by open drainage hole. It should be an open hole- the tube from the machine goes inside. There needs to be a gap left.
Maybe you should try calling a professional plumber. If something is wrong and you do not know what it is or how to fix it, better call in a pro
Do you have a video of how you did the air vent for the dryer?
Hello Aline. Unfortunately, I did not do one for that. I had a pretty tight space so I had to set mine up fairly specific.
Hi!
Im thinking of doing the same set up.
But my question is can I run the gas and water lines thru the attic? Because house sits on concrete slab
I believe you can, but I would always check with local building code. Also, if you’re running waterlines through the attic, you would need to consider insulation based upon your geographic location.
That AAV can't be in the wall cavity. It needs to be accessible.
I have a small 4 x 4” grill in front of it labeled. The grill can be taken off it can be easily reach to be unscrewed and replaced.
My drain plumbing is abs.. will that glue to abs? Can i put that in mybattic as well?
Thanks for the comment. Not sure about going to the abs. And you can put it in the attic.
What happens to the flow if you can't use a 2'' drain line only an 1-1/2"?
It will still drain. Many homes still have the 1 1/2”. As I mentioned on my comments, the codes states 2” for the high volume pumps on the new washing machines. If you can only do 1 1/2” I would recommend putting the trap a bit lower.
@@RighttothePointDIY Ok thanks, will do
Suds can back up the drain pipe, were you put the hose from the washing machine IF the machine uses a strong drain motor like the Speed Queens. This is well known. On older machines 1.5 should work if not blocked. New codes call for 2" in most cases and for good reason.
@@worldview730 Oh- are you really a prince or just playing around? If so, it must be cool to be rich. I would not know.
Trap should be lower to the floor, vent should be high close to the ceiling, more air is the key to using studor vents.
Thanks for the feedback.
True. Wise many Mr. Batts. Can you make em shine like mirras? HAHA.
This isn't an open air vent... the box it comes in says 4 to 11 inches above drain...
@@omarthewire Yes, there are specific directions to follow based on the specific application. 4-11" above drain is very common. Having it up higher probably would not hurt any. It is still simply letting air get in, however it is likely no more helpful. I could also see it being very inconvenient for most to install something like that. They want to sell product so they try to keep installs simple so people buy more.
@@omarthewire when they say that it is in reference to under a sink, which is the most common use. You also need a vent box cut in to the wall so as to not block air flow. You can do it your way, I just don't think it is the most effect application. Most professional plumbers run them up in the attic.
I noticed the p trap but wouldn't gas come up through the vent since it's directly on the main drain and no trap.
That's the beauty of the vent. It only allows air to come IN. Nothing can come out.
Here is a good article explaining how it works.
www.carsondunlop.com/training/resources/waste-plumbing-air-admittance-valves-and-automatic-air-vents-part-one/
Hey odd question would you be able to add a tee adapter to your hot water laundry hook up to hook up a bidet they recommend to hook up to your sink hot water but my laundry hook up is closer to my toilet
Hey Aubrey. I certainly don’t see why that would be a problem. With as little water as a bidet uses it certainly wouldn’t take away from the hot water needs of the washing machine.
@@RighttothePointDIY great thank you!!
How much above the drain can the Studor valve be located?
Thanks for the question. I think in the graphic at the beginning I mentioned the Heights. That was a minimum height. It can be higher obviously. The only caution is not to put it to low.
Modern day washers pump so hard I think the aav will just close like a disposal does when they are put on with one(which they also don't allow here in Ohio). Especially with suds from detergent. They won't let us do this setup in ohio. Not saying it won't work though I like the video.
Thanks for the note. It’s been working well for me these past two years so I’m thankful.
With the use of an Oatey laundry box, If I were to lower the box so the top of the drain pipe is 28”, could I put the p-trap below the floor? I have a crawl space below the floor.
From what I've learned researching this type of installation, the p-trap can not be below the floorboards, but must be between 6 or more inches above the floor.
Hey CinePost, I really am not sure. I guess you would have to check with code.
Also, 28" overall height is probably too low for any washing machine. Check docs on your machine; it will tell you the minimum and maximum height for the drain. I think they are usually around 39" off of the floor minimum, but there may be ways to have it be lower.
@@andydouglass1374 The drain line from my front load washer is at 18” from the floor so the hose has to go up to the drain.
@@cinepost Yes, they usually go up. But there are minimum and maximum drain heights (the height of the standpipe where the washer drain hose goes) determined by the washing machine manufacturer for each machine. These are usually given in reference to the floor that the washer sits on, not the height that the hose comes out of the machine.
YOU'RE NOT GOING TO WALL OVER THAT VALVE, RIGHT? RIGHT?
I did, and I put a grill over the valve for air access and future replacement
@@RighttothePointDIY OH thank you baby Jesus! - gave me flashbacks to uncovering a hidden one in a wall years ago. . .
@@carguy1312 Oh no! Yeah, I was just showing the layout primarily however, in retrospect, I should have told them what I was going to do once I put the drywall on. I have had many questions about that. LOL
What kind of grill did you use can you make a video on that please.
After drywall or before drywall??
You can't put that AAV inside the wall. That will have to be replaced in 20 years so it has to be located where the next guy can see it.
I have a grill in front of it labeled so the new home owner would know what it is and the grill can be taken off and it can be replaced.
@@TimBrownSenorCafe :). I should have mentioned it in the video before but it’s hard to remember everything. LOL
Don’t forget to staple your 12•2 romex!
LOl. Oh yeah. Wasn’t done everything at this stage.