I would rather have the water valves be visible for the exact reason you stated in the video. If you have a leak you can see it and you can get to it easily. Seems safer and more practical to me.
I saw this genius idea at an open house - they had what looked like shower valves above the counter as shut off valves. It was decorative and pleasant looking. It was obvious what they were for.
That stinky smell in your laundry room is sewer gas coming from your emergency drain after the water in the p trap evaporates. Solution: Pour water down the drain followed by a cup of vegetable oil. The oil will float to the top forming a barrier that will not evaporate.
First and foremost good morning, seriously thank you for making this video and sharing the knowledge. This video gave me a lot of good information thank you.
So this was really helpful Info. *But* at the very beginning, you talked about the box height. A lot of newer laundry rooms have the washer and dryer elevated up on a platform of sorts (you can store laundry baskets for example underneath them and it’s easier to get your clothes in and out of front-loading washer and/or dyers with this setup) this elevated position puts the washer/dryer approx 16-20” above the finished floor. So you might want to amend the height of the box to accommodate people installing this particular scenario. Rest of the vid is spot on though 👍🏼
Minimum washing machine discharge ht is 39 inches. I place mine just above the top of the back of the washing machines. (44") . You can reach the valves with no problems. Also the discharge can be pulled out and placed into the laundry tub. I don't see the benefit of placing the valves behind/below easy access.
A construction company built my house and things are falling apart faster than we can fix them. It seems the entire laundry room needs to be redone. The electrical for the dryer has nearly fallen out of the wall hanging on by one nail and it's so close to the floor that I'm terrified of an electrical fire. Thee pipes behind the washer are so rusted out they've started to collect water across the laundry room floor and into the kitchen. This is beyond frustrating because I don't have the money to call a plumber since everything keeps deciding to fall apart. I haven't been able to do laundry in weeks. So now I'm just researching possible solutions.
Each to its own but I like the service box above the washer. The valves r accessible w/o movin anything n what is best is I keep m closed when not using.
I thought it was a bit funny how #1 was make your valves inaccessible and moments later to install accessible valves. I get Manta's reasoning and it makes for the cleanest room, but I think most people don't mind a little valve box showing in a room that isn't really for show anyway.
Yup. I like what Ana White did with her laundry room. She had a shelf behind the machines and recessed the plumbing box. She had a flap with hinges that could be flipped out of the way to access the plumbing box. Kept stuff hidden but allowed for quick easy access. Also kept stuff from falling behind the machines.
My stupid coworkers always mess up the heights of laundry boxes, it's insane! Great video. I'm definitely sending this to them to prove I was right. It's common F-ing sense!
Emergency floor drain is a good idea but if it’s connected to the same drainage pipe only for flooding caused by either hot and cold water being busted, but if your drainage itself is plugged up it is useless. Would it be better to drill a hole put a pvc pipe from your inside to outside wall then cover with metal mesh so bugs can’t get in to avoid flooding? Well this fell for inspection?
I have a small laundry space. I need to make it wider. My hot and cold shut off valves stick out from the wall 2.25 to 2.5”. Can I install a box like the one on the wall that is recessed?
If the water box height is supposed to be 40 inch from the floor and the w/d is 41 tall, what is the reason to have water valves behind the w/d that can't be reached if needed?
If the box is lower than the washing machine, how are you going to reach to turn the supply lines off and on without having to pull the washing machine out?
It looks like you're using a double sanitary tee for a second side-by side fixture (presumably a sink). Shouldn't that be a double fixture fitting instead? Otherwise the pumping action of the washer could cause crossover flow into the second fixture.
Wondering about this question as well. There is an exception for back to back water closets and/or fixtures, but doesn’t state whether or not the exception (minimum distance of 10x the pipe diameter) applies to an appliance such as a washer or dishwasher. “A double sanitary tee (cross) cannot be used for connections to fixtures and appliances with pumping action because it has a short pattern for change of direction. In addition to blowout-type water closets, 1.6-gallon-per-flush (6.1 L/flush) flushometer tank (pressure assisted) and gravity tank-type fixtures may also produce crossover flow into the opposite fixture connection. The high-velocity flow may discharge through the opposing openings of a double sanitary tee, causing an interruption or blowback at the other fixture. Back-to-back water closets are fixtures that are installed directly opposite of each other and discharge through a short distance into a double pattern fitting. If back-to-back fixtures discharge through several feet of pipe or multiple changes of direction, the flow velocity in the fixture drains would decrease to the point where cross flow would not occur. The exception provides for back-to-back water closet connections to double sanitary tee patterns where the horizontal developed length between the outlet of the water closet and connection to the double sanitary tee pattern is 18 inches (457 mm) or more. The critical distance at which there is potential for crossover is a horizontal developed length of less than 10 times the diameter of the horizontal pipe, for example, 30 inches (762 mm) for a 3-inch-diameter (76 mm) pipe. Once the developed length is over 30 inches (762 mm), the surging flow conditions will no longer exist, and the frictional resistance of the pipe retards the velocity to that of uniform flow conditions.”
With the use of an Oatey laundry box, If I were to lower the box so the top of the drain pipe is 28”, could I put the p-trap below the floor? I have a crawl space below the floor.
No. You are not permitted to put a standpipe P-trap below the floor. The trap must be a minimum of 6" above the finished floor and a maximum of 18". From the trap weir up it can go 30" (based on UPC) or 42" (based on IPC). Manta Mechanical means well, but is incorrect about the code for standpipe plumbing.
@@TheBuildingExpert I'm sorry, but you are incorrect: UPC 804.1 Standpipe Receptors. "...No trap for any clothes washer stand pipe receptor shall be installed below the floor, but shall be roughed in not less than six (6) inches (152mm) and not more than eighteen (18) inches (457mm) above the floor..." IPC has the same restriction.
@@cinepost Because shower drains have different code rules than standpipe drains. Sink drains and standpipe P-traps are supposed to be above the finished floor but toilet, bath, and shower, ones pretty much have to be below the finished floor because of how low they are. But they generally shouldn't be lower than 24" from the fixture. The standpipes differ because a pump pushes water out of the washing machine so it has more force.
Hello , nice vid. I know the code for washer box drain is 2”. My condo only supplies 1 1/2 drains except the toilet drain. Will it be ok if I rough in the 1 1/2 “ If I buy a front load washer which I heard uses less water? I live on the second floor . Any suggestions will be appreciated, thanks
Very informative .....I was told my hot and cold water valves are not up to code and the washer drain was wrong .....My house inherited from my 0arents is 60 yrs old .....I just figured it wouldn't be smooth sailing with the installation .....CAN you tell me about codes as far h20 hot and cold tturn off
It would be a good idea and up to code to put a trap primer on the floor drain and a shut off valve and access panel to to service in a accessable area on a wall near it
So what’s going to keep water in the emergency drains p trap? If it doesn’t get water in a couple years the p trap water will evaporate and you will be getting sewer gas in your laundry room.
You can run a branch off the main stack more than 7 feet but make sure that 2’’ trap arm length doesn’t exceed 7’11’’. The trap arm is the portion of a fixture drain between a trap weir and its protecting vent.
No. It does not reflect any actual codes. The information is incorrect. The 24" rule refers to sink and shower traps. Laundry standpipes are in a different category. UPC 804.1 Standpipe Receptors. Plumbing fixtures or other receptors receiving the discharge of indirect waste pipes shall be approved for the use proposed and shall be of such shape and capacity as to prevent splashing or flooding and shall be located where they are readily accessible for inspection and cleaning. No standpipe receptor for a clothes washer shall extend more than 30 inches (762 mm), or not less than 18 inches (457 mm) above its trap. No trap for a clothes washer standpipe receptor shall be installed below the floor, but shall be roughed in not less than 6 inches (152 mm) and not more than 18 inches (457 mm) above the floor. No indirect waste receptor shall be installed in a toilet room, closet, cupboard, or storeroom, or in a portion of a building not in general use by the occupants thereof; except standpipes for clothes washers shall be permitted to be installed in toilet and bathroom areas where the clothes washer is installed in the same room.
Higher valves enable easy access to cut off the water in an emergency, all my customers really appreciate being able to easily reach the cut offs. Most don't care how it looks most machines in a separate room or garage.
You can't put a cross connection with a pumping action machine...the reason why I'm watching is to see how I can tie in a sink above the C.W. here I see an obvious mistake
@@TheBuildingExpert it's not the use of cross tees...it's having a pumping action fixture like a clothing washer on a cross tee...It's for a reason and I'm sure it's the same out there
Wondering about this question as well. There is an exception for back to back water closets and/or fixtures, but doesn’t state whether or not the exception (minimum distance of 10x the pipe diameter) applies to an appliance such as a washer or dishwasher. “A double sanitary tee (cross) cannot be used for connections to fixtures and appliances with pumping action because it has a short pattern for change of direction. In addition to blowout-type water closets, 1.6-gallon-per-flush (6.1 L/flush) flushometer tank (pressure assisted) and gravity tank-type fixtures may also produce crossover flow into the opposite fixture connection. The high-velocity flow may discharge through the opposing openings of a double sanitary tee, causing an interruption or blowback at the other fixture. Back-to-back water closets are fixtures that are installed directly opposite of each other and discharge through a short distance into a double pattern fitting. If back-to-back fixtures discharge through several feet of pipe or multiple changes of direction, the flow velocity in the fixture drains would decrease to the point where cross flow would not occur. The exception provides for back-to-back water closet connections to double sanitary tee patterns where the horizontal developed length between the outlet of the water closet and connection to the double sanitary tee pattern is 18 inches (457 mm) or more. The critical distance at which there is potential for crossover is a horizontal developed length of less than 10 times the diameter of the horizontal pipe, for example, 30 inches (762 mm) for a 3-inch-diameter (76 mm) pipe. Once the developed length is over 30 inches (762 mm), the surging flow conditions will no longer exist, and the frictional resistance of the pipe retards the velocity to that of uniform flow conditions.”
I very much appreciate this video. It is well done. You speak clearly and concisely, however, there are some errors. I am not intending to be rude or condescending, but I would like to correct some of the information as well as add some feedback. The point is to make sure people know the correct rules. Perhaps you can do a revised video if you want. The 40" rule is not what the plumbing codes say. The 24" thing is also not what plumbing codes say. IPC allows for the drain to be 42" maximum above the trap weir. UPC has a 30" limit. That is on top of the trap weir being a maximum 18" above the floor (both IPC and UPC). So maximum height of the drain in a laundry box in UPC is 48" and maximum height for IPC is 60". The minimum height of the pipe above the trap is 18", not 24". I believe the 24" rule applies for sink and shower drains. *IPC 802.4.3 Standpipes. Standpipes shall be individually trapped. Standpipes shall extend a minimum of 18 inches (457 mm) and a maximum of 42 inches (1066 mm) above the trap weir. Access shall be provided to all standpipes and drains for rodding.* *UPC 804.1 Standpipe Receptors. ...No stand pipe receptor for any clothes washer shall extend more than thirty (30) inches (762mm), nor less than eighteen (18) inches (457mm) above its trap. No trap for any clothes washer stand pipe receptor shall be installed below the floor, but shall be roughed in not less than six (6) inches (152mm) and not more than eighteen (18) inches (457mm) above the floor...* *IPC 1002.1 Fixture traps. Each plumbing fixture shall be separately trapped by a water-seal trap, except as otherwise permitted by this code. The vertical distance from the fixture outlet to the trap weir shall not exceed 24 inches (610 mm) and the horizontal distance shall not exceed 30 inches (610 mm) measured from the centerline of the fixture outlet to the centerline of the inlet of the trap. The height of a clothes washer standpipe above a trap shall conform to Section 802.4. A fixture shall not be double trapped.* Ana White hid her laundry box behind a door that flipped up, but honestly, I don't mind seeing the laundry box. I want it to be easy to reach/access in case of emergency. There are ways to conceal it where it can still be accessible though-- but you can have it higher than 40" and not have it look ugly. I do like how your picture has two separate boxes for water supply and drain. I don't know if I can do that in my layout. I'm hoping my box will let me put the drain on the right and supply lines on the left. I want to have the box sort or embedded in a shelf with grommets that the hoses go through to reach the box. It will keep stuff from falling behind the machines and make things look a little cleaner. If I don't like being able to see the box & hoses I can add a hinged flap to cover it. Extra shutoffs near the floor are a good idea if the laundry outlets leak or have a problem. Although, as I said before, I personally like to have the shutoffs for the machine hoses to be easily accessible. I would also put the cleanout for the vent higher up-- above the flood level of the fixture in case water backs up the pipe. You don't want it spilling out when you go to snake it out. When merging the washing machine's 2" line with the main sewer line, you want to increase it to 3" to improve flow. Floor drains will need to have water poured down to seal the trap if there haven't been any leaks. You may need to add water if it evaporates in the trap. As for the laundry sink (if you can fit one, you may want to have a branch vent and be mindful of backwash from the washing machine. Sometimes suds can back up in to nearby fixtures if they are plumbed too closely. I will add that on the electrical side: 20amp GFCI outlet should serve the washing machine. This is not a code requirement specifically for the washing machine, but it is a code requirement for laundry areas. Anything within 36" of potential water spray should be GFCI unless you have a GFCI breaker. I would do my best to keep the plug out of the splash zone and somewhere that is easily accessible to unplug in an emergency. Same with the dryer. For the dryer you want to upgrade to a 4-prong plug & receptacle. The old 3-prong ones can cause the dryer to become electrified and result in electrocution.I am not intending to be rude.
Why can’t you make a video and get your point across without the bullshit I want to be like everyone else musick playing that’s mixed so high it just annoying and we can’t focus on what the dialogue is!
Thanks for your support. Also Watch Dos & Don’ts of Bathroom Plumbing.
ua-cam.com/video/rXSkFGhbozQ/v-deo.html
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I prefer the valves higher than the washer for accessibility.
I would rather have the water valves be visible for the exact reason you stated in the video. If you have a leak you can see it and you can get to it easily. Seems safer and more practical to me.
Thanks for your feedback.
And can easily hide it with a cover or decoration.
I saw this genius idea at an open house - they had what looked like shower valves above the counter as shut off valves. It was decorative and pleasant looking. It was obvious what they were for.
Yeeupppp. Same
Very well done. Keep making videos like this on a regular basis, and the people who need this information will find you and subscribe.
Thanks.
This is the MOST complete info video I have seen. I send it to al my d.i.y. friends who have done horrors to their homes
Thank you.
Your a good friend Mikey
That stinky smell in your laundry room is sewer gas coming from your emergency drain after the water in the p trap evaporates. Solution: Pour water down the drain followed by a cup of vegetable oil. The oil will float to the top forming a barrier that will not evaporate.
Or a Trap Primer. Thanks for your feedback.
Way to much but it works. I doubt the trap holds that much
Won't the vegetable oil rot and/or attract insects though?
Mineral oil instead of vegetable oil
What do you do about the rancid vegetable oil smell and all the bugs it attracts??
Maybe you should just do laundry a little more often.
First and foremost good morning, seriously thank you for making this video and sharing the knowledge. This video gave me a lot of good information thank you.
Thanks for your feedback 🙏🏼
Great vid presentation.
So this was really helpful Info. *But* at the very beginning, you talked about the box height. A lot of newer laundry rooms have the washer and dryer elevated up on a platform of sorts (you can store laundry baskets for example underneath them and it’s easier to get your clothes in and out of front-loading washer and/or dyers with this setup) this elevated position puts the washer/dryer approx 16-20” above the finished floor. So you might want to amend the height of the box to accommodate people installing this particular scenario. Rest of the vid is spot on though 👍🏼
Thanks for your feedback
Minimum washing machine discharge ht is 39 inches. I place mine just above the top of the back of the washing machines. (44") . You can reach the valves with no problems. Also the discharge can be pulled out and placed into the laundry tub. I don't see the benefit of placing the valves behind/below easy access.
@@maintenancebynathan2150 yea, try telling that to all wives out there
@@maintenancebynathan2150 Agreed lower than 39" (code) will cause overflow problems at the standpipe
Could you tie the washer standpipe into the 3 inch clean out drain?
A construction company built my house and things are falling apart faster than we can fix them. It seems the entire laundry room needs to be redone. The electrical for the dryer has nearly fallen out of the wall hanging on by one nail and it's so close to the floor that I'm terrified of an electrical fire. Thee pipes behind the washer are so rusted out they've started to collect water across the laundry room floor and into the kitchen. This is beyond frustrating because I don't have the money to call a plumber since everything keeps deciding to fall apart. I haven't been able to do laundry in weeks. So now I'm just researching possible solutions.
Each to its own but I like the service box above the washer. The valves r accessible w/o movin anything n what is best is I keep m closed when not using.
Thanks for your feedback! 🙏🏼
Likewise
I thought it was a bit funny how #1 was make your valves inaccessible and moments later to install accessible valves. I get Manta's reasoning and it makes for the cleanest room, but I think most people don't mind a little valve box showing in a room that isn't really for show anyway.
@garrett Gomes Thanks for your feedback! 🙏🏼
Yup. I like what Ana White did with her laundry room. She had a shelf behind the machines and recessed the plumbing box. She had a flap with hinges that could be flipped out of the way to access the plumbing box. Kept stuff hidden but allowed for quick easy access. Also kept stuff from falling behind the machines.
My stupid coworkers always mess up the heights of laundry boxes, it's insane! Great video. I'm definitely sending this to them to prove I was right. It's common F-ing sense!
Not really. If it’s a front load tower this doesn’t matter
Emergency floor drain is a good idea but if it’s connected to the same drainage pipe only for flooding caused by either hot and cold water being busted, but if your drainage itself is plugged up it is useless. Would it be better to drill a hole put a pvc pipe from your inside to outside wall then cover with metal mesh so bugs can’t get in to avoid flooding? Well this fell for inspection?
If you box was high enough to reach and not hidden behind the washer then you could easily turn off the water.
What plumbing code are you using from what country and state ?
What type of joint if sink and laundry drain are on the same side, or is it code for the sink drain to tie into the laundry drain?
I came here with the same question. I've looked everywhere for the best way to do that and I keep getting conflicting answers
great presentation, simple and to the point with illustration.
Thanks for your feedback
@0:30: So now building codes are based on aesthetic preferences? I don't think so.
Isnt the Trap arm between vent and P trap? whats that on the left??
If the emergency floor drain has a trap and it dries out what then? No trap primer?
Washer leaks being so rare, that emergency drain p trap will dry out and you'll get sewer gasses under the washer, correct?
I have a small laundry space. I need to make it wider. My hot and cold shut off valves stick out from the wall 2.25 to 2.5”. Can I install a box like the one on the wall that is recessed?
Very helpful, made it look so easy.
Thanks.
If the water box height is supposed to be 40 inch from the floor and the w/d is 41 tall, what is the reason to have water valves behind the w/d that can't be reached if needed?
Please re-watch the video. Thanks
If the box is lower than the washing machine, how are you going to reach to turn the supply lines off and on without having to pull the washing machine out?
@Par Golf It’s mentioned in the video. Kindly re-watch the video. Thanks for your feedback.
@@TheBuildingExpert I have same question, I couldn't find answer in the video. Could you please provide simple answer?
Very informative thanks!!
Thanks for watching.
It looks like you're using a double sanitary tee for a second side-by side fixture (presumably a sink). Shouldn't that be a double fixture fitting instead? Otherwise the pumping action of the washer could cause crossover flow into the second fixture.
Wondering about this question as well. There is an exception for back to back water closets and/or fixtures, but doesn’t state whether or not the exception (minimum distance of 10x the pipe diameter) applies to an appliance such as a washer or dishwasher.
“A double sanitary tee (cross) cannot be used for connections to fixtures and appliances with pumping action because it has a short pattern for change of direction. In addition to blowout-type water closets, 1.6-gallon-per-flush (6.1 L/flush) flushometer tank (pressure assisted) and gravity tank-type fixtures may also produce crossover flow into the opposite fixture connection. The high-velocity flow may discharge through the opposing openings of a double sanitary tee, causing an interruption or blowback at the other fixture. Back-to-back water closets are fixtures that are installed directly opposite of each other and discharge through a short distance into a double pattern fitting. If back-to-back fixtures discharge through several feet of pipe or multiple changes of direction, the flow velocity in the fixture drains would decrease to the point where cross flow would not occur. The exception provides for back-to-back water closet connections to double sanitary tee patterns where the horizontal developed length between the outlet of the water closet and connection to the double sanitary tee pattern is 18 inches (457 mm) or more. The critical distance at which there is potential for crossover is a horizontal developed length of less than 10 times the diameter of the horizontal pipe, for example, 30 inches (762 mm) for a 3-inch-diameter (76 mm) pipe. Once the developed length is over 30 inches (762 mm), the surging flow conditions will no longer exist, and the frictional resistance of the pipe retards the velocity to that of uniform flow conditions.”
What code did you use in this and year? Just curious.
Would like to add additional visible water line shut offs. Is there a valve box that has a door cover?
What if both sink and washer are on the right of the vent pipe? That's what I have and have to come up with a plan.
Separate drains for sink & laundry box. Wet vent laundry box drain with sink. Thanks.
Thanks for the informative video. Was wondering if the floor drain can be upstream from the washer drain?
Yes, you could do that.
Thanks for your feedback.
It is better for it to be upstream than downstream. Either way if you put it too close to the laundry drain, you may get suds coming up in the drain.
great presentation, straight to the point.
With the use of an Oatey laundry box, If I were to lower the box so the top of the drain pipe is 28”, could I put the p-trap below the floor? I have a crawl space below the floor.
Yes, you can! As long as it’s vented properly, standpipe length is minimum 24” & the trap arm length is minimum 4”. Thanks. 🙏🏼
No. You are not permitted to put a standpipe P-trap below the floor. The trap must be a minimum of 6" above the finished floor and a maximum of 18". From the trap weir up it can go 30" (based on UPC) or 42" (based on IPC). Manta Mechanical means well, but is incorrect about the code for standpipe plumbing.
@@TheBuildingExpert I'm sorry, but you are incorrect: UPC 804.1 Standpipe Receptors. "...No trap for any clothes washer stand pipe receptor shall be installed below the floor, but shall be roughed in not less than six (6) inches (152mm) and not more than eighteen (18) inches (457mm) above the floor..."
IPC has the same restriction.
@@mycats7321 then why do we see p-traps below shower drains in the crawl space?
@@cinepost Because shower drains have different code rules than standpipe drains. Sink drains and standpipe P-traps are supposed to be above the finished floor but toilet, bath, and shower, ones pretty much have to be below the finished floor because of how low they are. But they generally shouldn't be lower than 24" from the fixture. The standpipes differ because a pump pushes water out of the washing machine so it has more force.
Hello , nice vid. I know the code for washer box drain is 2”. My condo only supplies 1 1/2 drains except the toilet drain.
Will it be ok if I rough in the 1 1/2 “ If I buy a front load washer which I heard uses less water?
I live on the second floor . Any suggestions will be appreciated, thanks
what if you have two washing machines (side by side) and 1 drain? Do you use 2 y branches stacked then branched out to 2 separate traps?
Please detail the installation of a Gas Supply for the Dryer
My laundry has one 1-1/2 p-trap shared for the sink and washer. Is that code anymore?
@@rickybobby7276 It has one trap for both fixtures. Goes into a san tee in the wall Looks like it's original from the 1980s.
Very informative .....I was told my hot and cold water valves are not up to code and the washer drain was wrong .....My house inherited from my 0arents is 60 yrs old .....I just figured it wouldn't be smooth sailing with the installation .....CAN you tell me about codes as far h20 hot and cold tturn off
One thing people don't understand is that codes change over time. Something that met code 20 years ago may not met today's codes
What happens if you can't change the stack line from 1/1/2" to 2"? How will that effect the flow of the drain line ?
It should work just fine. It’s not required to change drains to 2” in old houses where we plumb but might be different where you live. Thanks.
Great clear and simple video. Question, what code are you referring to when saying old and new? Differs by state right?
NPC of Canada. However, most of these rules are universal and good starting point.
It would be a good idea and up to code to put a trap primer on the floor drain and a shut off valve and access panel to to service in a accessable area on a wall near it
Thanks for your feedback!
You used a double sanitary tee rather than a double fixture fitting. All that work and you don't use the fitting drain?
Goode job
Question, since the floor drain does not regularly have water in it, doesn't that result in a dry pipe venting gas?
A trap primer is the solution. Thanks for your feedback
Sweet!
So what’s going to keep water in the emergency drains p trap? If it doesn’t get water in a couple years the p trap water will evaporate and you will be getting sewer gas in your laundry room.
A trap primer. Thank you.
Good info!
Thanks 🙏🏼
Thanks 🙏🏼
What state building code does this belong to? Im in Harris county texas
NPC of Canada 🇨🇦
@@TheBuildingExpert Ahhh. Ok. That explains why it does not jive with UPC and IPC. The rules are different. I will have to look up NPC at some point.
what if my washer is more than 7 feet from the main stack
You can run a branch off the main stack more than 7 feet but make sure that 2’’ trap arm length doesn’t exceed 7’11’’. The trap arm is the portion of a fixture drain between a trap weir and its protecting vent.
Laundry floor drain has to be filled with water or the ptrap will dry out in no time.
Thanks for your feedback.
Wait what? Stand pipe code is 18”-30.” 24”??
Thanks, got me out of a jam
Glad it helped.
Just had a laundry room built from scratch and the pros I hired contradicted about half this video. I'm skeptical.
It is UPC codes.
No. It does not reflect any actual codes. The information is incorrect. The 24" rule refers to sink and shower traps. Laundry standpipes are in a different category.
UPC 804.1 Standpipe Receptors.
Plumbing fixtures or other receptors receiving the discharge of indirect waste pipes shall be approved for the use proposed and shall be of such shape and capacity as to prevent splashing or flooding and shall be located where they are readily accessible for inspection and cleaning. No standpipe receptor for a clothes washer shall extend more than 30 inches (762 mm), or not less than 18 inches (457 mm) above its trap. No trap for a clothes washer standpipe receptor shall be installed below the floor, but shall be roughed in not less than 6 inches (152 mm) and not more than 18 inches (457 mm) above the floor. No indirect waste receptor shall be installed in a toilet room, closet, cupboard, or storeroom, or in a portion of a building not in general use by the occupants thereof; except standpipes for clothes washers shall be permitted to be installed in toilet and bathroom areas where the clothes washer is installed in the same room.
Higher valves enable easy access to cut off the water in an emergency, all my customers really appreciate being able to easily reach the cut offs. Most don't care how it looks most machines in a separate room or garage.
Thanks for sharing.
I install appliances and not one person has had a accessible shutoff valve. It's smart too have them.
Thanks for your feedback 🙏🏼
You can't put a cross connection with a pumping action machine...the reason why I'm watching is to see how I can tie in a sink above the C.W. here I see an obvious mistake
It may be different where you live but NPC of Canada doesn’t restrict the use of cross tee. Thanks for your feedback.
@@TheBuildingExpert it's not the use of cross tees...it's having a pumping action fixture like a clothing washer on a cross tee...It's for a reason and I'm sure it's the same out there
Wondering about this question as well. There is an exception for back to back water closets and/or fixtures, but doesn’t state whether or not the exception (minimum distance of 10x the pipe diameter) applies to an appliance such as a washer or dishwasher.
“A double sanitary tee (cross) cannot be used for connections to fixtures and appliances with pumping action because it has a short pattern for change of direction. In addition to blowout-type water closets, 1.6-gallon-per-flush (6.1 L/flush) flushometer tank (pressure assisted) and gravity tank-type fixtures may also produce crossover flow into the opposite fixture connection. The high-velocity flow may discharge through the opposing openings of a double sanitary tee, causing an interruption or blowback at the other fixture. Back-to-back water closets are fixtures that are installed directly opposite of each other and discharge through a short distance into a double pattern fitting. If back-to-back fixtures discharge through several feet of pipe or multiple changes of direction, the flow velocity in the fixture drains would decrease to the point where cross flow would not occur. The exception provides for back-to-back water closet connections to double sanitary tee patterns where the horizontal developed length between the outlet of the water closet and connection to the double sanitary tee pattern is 18 inches (457 mm) or more. The critical distance at which there is potential for crossover is a horizontal developed length of less than 10 times the diameter of the horizontal pipe, for example, 30 inches (762 mm) for a 3-inch-diameter (76 mm) pipe. Once the developed length is over 30 inches (762 mm), the surging flow conditions will no longer exist, and the frictional resistance of the pipe retards the velocity to that of uniform flow conditions.”
Sorry, I'm not re-plumbing my house because they changed the code.
The at least 24 in drain pipe is false it's between 18 and 24, edit my bad it's different state to state
I don't care if I see the laundry box. If I can it means I can turn the water off there without much difficulty.
Great video, but do away with the distracting music. It doesn't serve a purpose and diminishes your message.
Thanks for your feedback
I very much appreciate this video. It is well done. You speak clearly and concisely, however, there are some errors. I am not intending to be rude or condescending, but I would like to correct some of the information as well as add some feedback. The point is to make sure people know the correct rules. Perhaps you can do a revised video if you want.
The 40" rule is not what the plumbing codes say. The 24" thing is also not what plumbing codes say. IPC allows for the drain to be 42" maximum above the trap weir. UPC has a 30" limit. That is on top of the trap weir being a maximum 18" above the floor (both IPC and UPC). So maximum height of the drain in a laundry box in UPC is 48" and maximum height for IPC is 60". The minimum height of the pipe above the trap is 18", not 24". I believe the 24" rule applies for sink and shower drains.
*IPC 802.4.3 Standpipes.
Standpipes shall be individually trapped.
Standpipes shall extend a minimum of 18 inches (457 mm) and a maximum of 42 inches (1066 mm) above the trap weir.
Access shall be provided to all standpipes and drains for rodding.*
*UPC 804.1 Standpipe Receptors.
...No stand pipe receptor for any clothes washer shall extend more than thirty (30) inches (762mm), nor less than eighteen (18) inches (457mm) above its trap. No trap for any clothes washer stand pipe receptor shall be installed below the floor, but shall be roughed in not less than six (6) inches (152mm) and not more than eighteen (18) inches (457mm) above the floor...*
*IPC 1002.1 Fixture traps.
Each plumbing fixture shall be separately trapped by a water-seal trap, except as otherwise permitted by this code. The vertical distance from the fixture outlet to the trap weir shall not exceed 24 inches (610 mm) and the horizontal distance shall not exceed 30 inches (610 mm) measured from the centerline of the fixture outlet to the centerline of the inlet of the trap. The height of a clothes washer standpipe above a trap shall conform to Section 802.4. A fixture shall not be double trapped.*
Ana White hid her laundry box behind a door that flipped up, but honestly, I don't mind seeing the laundry box. I want it to be easy to reach/access in case of emergency. There are ways to conceal it where it can still be accessible though-- but you can have it higher than 40" and not have it look ugly.
I do like how your picture has two separate boxes for water supply and drain. I don't know if I can do that in my layout. I'm hoping my box will let me put the drain on the right and supply lines on the left. I want to have the box sort or embedded in a shelf with grommets that the hoses go through to reach the box. It will keep stuff from falling behind the machines and make things look a little cleaner. If I don't like being able to see the box & hoses I can add a hinged flap to cover it.
Extra shutoffs near the floor are a good idea if the laundry outlets leak or have a problem. Although, as I said before, I personally like to have the shutoffs for the machine hoses to be easily accessible. I would also put the cleanout for the vent higher up-- above the flood level of the fixture in case water backs up the pipe. You don't want it spilling out when you go to snake it out.
When merging the washing machine's 2" line with the main sewer line, you want to increase it to 3" to improve flow. Floor drains will need to have water poured down to seal the trap if there haven't been any leaks. You may need to add water if it evaporates in the trap. As for the laundry sink (if you can fit one, you may want to have a branch vent and be mindful of backwash from the washing machine. Sometimes suds can back up in to nearby fixtures if they are plumbed too closely.
I will add that on the electrical side: 20amp GFCI outlet should serve the washing machine. This is not a code requirement specifically for the washing machine, but it is a code requirement for laundry areas. Anything within 36" of potential water spray should be GFCI unless you have a GFCI breaker. I would do my best to keep the plug out of the splash zone and somewhere that is easily accessible to unplug in an emergency. Same with the dryer. For the dryer you want to upgrade to a 4-prong plug & receptacle. The old 3-prong ones can cause the dryer to become electrified and result in electrocution.I am not intending to be rude.
Flood rim level
Emergency!
I just burped
Nothing but clowns 🤡
Why can’t you make a video and get your point across without the bullshit I want to be like everyone else musick playing that’s mixed so high it just annoying and we can’t focus on what the dialogue is!
Please detail the installation of a Gas Supply for the Dryer