First of all, I would like to thank you for taking the time to do a 'play through' of the game. I must confess I was quite surprised by your confusion about the pre-war phase. Looking over the text of that rule which is 6.1 all the way to 6.33, it seems very clear. The game has been played at the World Board Game Championships for 10 years and nobody has had a problem understanding the opening. In your video, I think you eventually 'got it right. In the opening paragraph of 6.1 it explicitly says that this 'pre-war' phase occurs OF COURSE before War is actually declared. So what you are doing is drawing ONE card and then your opponent does the same. You CAN play it to move forces on the board but one has to be careful because you can't invade as in Step 3 of the procedure. One is tempted to play all 7 cards (if you get them) but if you do that, when war DOES break out, your opponent might have as many as 6 cards left to play and would be able to attack you. At the tournaments, most good players held on to their cards unit was is declared. Sometimes though, their might be a position on the board that you think might be threatened by something your opponent did in the PRE-WAR phase and you might react. Over the years of tournament statistics we have found that the game is quite balanced and expert players can win as either side. I hope you enjoy the game and thanks for posting.
If you read the whole rulebook the "2 card maximum hold" really sticks in your mind (at least it did in mine). I do think that if the game is ever reprinted (which it really deserves) some additional text in the pre-war section would helpful. Each side is really building their 7 card hand in that phase for the spring of 1812 and you can hold all 7 cards if you choose. I will say the rulebook is one of the best I've read. Everything else is very clear to me and I (as you can probably tell) tend to overanalyze rulebooks. 😀
Dang! Yes, good catch. I could only move 1 unit up and not Dearborn with two. I'll adjust that at the start of the next video. [edit]It was point out on BGG that the move is legal if the Minor Ops card is played for the event and not just for the Ops value. I'll just say that's what I did. 😁]
The pre-war doesn't add a whole lot but it does give each side the chance to adjust their forces at the cost of taking actions once the war breaks out. I'm not sure it was 100% necessary to the game.
Quite enjoyable video-thanks.
please make videos for games from 100 war games on bgg, great videos, thanks!
First of all, I would like to thank you for taking the time to do a 'play through' of the game. I must confess I was quite surprised by your confusion about the pre-war phase. Looking over the text of that rule which is 6.1 all the way to 6.33, it seems very clear. The game has been played at the World Board Game Championships for 10 years and nobody has had a problem understanding the opening. In your video, I think you eventually 'got it right. In the opening paragraph of 6.1 it explicitly says that this 'pre-war' phase occurs OF COURSE before War is actually declared. So what you are doing is drawing ONE card and then your opponent does the same. You CAN play it to move forces on the board but one has to be careful because you can't invade as in Step 3 of the procedure. One is tempted to play all 7 cards (if you get them) but if you do that, when war DOES break out, your opponent might have as many as 6 cards left to play and would be able to attack you. At the tournaments, most good players held on to their cards unit was is declared. Sometimes though, their might be a position on the board that you think might be threatened by something your opponent did in the PRE-WAR phase and you might react. Over the years of tournament statistics we have found that the game is quite balanced and expert players can win as either side.
I hope you enjoy the game and thanks for posting.
If you read the whole rulebook the "2 card maximum hold" really sticks in your mind (at least it did in mine). I do think that if the game is ever reprinted (which it really deserves) some additional text in the pre-war section would helpful. Each side is really building their 7 card hand in that phase for the spring of 1812 and you can hold all 7 cards if you choose.
I will say the rulebook is one of the best I've read. Everything else is very clear to me and I (as you can probably tell) tend to overanalyze rulebooks. 😀
@@MyOwnWorstEnemy I'm glad you liked the game. If you do get to play it opposed, it can be really exciting. Again, thanks for posting.
This game really gives me the idea that it’s 1812 from Columbia Games but on steroids
Much more detailed and historic.
You plyed a 1 op to move Dearborn but he needs 3 ops to move doesn't he?
Dang! Yes, good catch. I could only move 1 unit up and not Dearborn with two. I'll adjust that at the start of the next video.
[edit]It was point out on BGG that the move is legal if the Minor Ops card is played for the event and not just for the Ops value. I'll just say that's what I did. 😁]
What's your opinion if the game did not have a "pre-war," phase but just started with war declared? Does the Pre-war add much?
The pre-war doesn't add a whole lot but it does give each side the chance to adjust their forces at the cost of taking actions once the war breaks out. I'm not sure it was 100% necessary to the game.
@@MyOwnWorstEnemy Perhaps when we play it next month we'll skip it as an experiment- it'll shorten playing time if nothing else. Worth a try.
Don't the British get two points for Ft. Mackinac when it's captured. ( the U.S. loses two and the British gain two?).
It's an "overall" victory point system so their two VPs erase the US two VP lead.