Great job! When attaching the alien to the base you could plug-weld it. That's where you drill a hole through the bottom of the base where the feet are and weld from below. That way you won't see any of the welds from above.
To get rid of sticky residue, maybe try putting print outside on sunny day. Then wash clean isopropyl alcohol. It works for me, but I live in sunny Australia 🇦🇺
Any 3D printing resin is reliant on temperature for several reasons. One is viscosity so within the recommended temperature range (27C for example) the resin flows correctly and there is less chance of failure. Another reason is that your resin Normal exposure time is dialed in to the temperature, current for that exposure print. If you were to print at 24C, then your exposure time would be longer and the resin would be more viscose and you would need to increase your wait time to allow the resin to reflow into the void once the build plate has risen. Purchase an internal heater for the printer and calibrate your resin for a specific temperature and you then just need to get the printer interior to that temperature and start your printing. Siraya Tech Cast - Castable resin needs to be above 25C to work correctly so around 27C should be ideal. Great bronze casts.
So, i've been sculpting digitally and occasionally printing what I make for about a year or so, I was just wondering if something like this was possible, as i've also had an interest in metal work, that I have not dabbled in at all. Looking this process up and finding out it's actually very possible at home, is super inspiring. Your bear videos were a fun watch, this whole process is both less, and MORE complicated than I thought it was, Great work!
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Agree, many of the best bronze works of art are similar size, and larger. The greater the mass the higher the level of difficulty and skill required.
If you heat it up in liquid before cutting it apart, its a billion times easier and less brittle :) (I use hot water at this stage with no issues later on, as its pre curing, obvs after its had a rinse in the IPA to remove excess resin. I don't own a wash/cure station and just wiggle a box full of IPA by hand so no issues around bits breaking on that step too :) )
Clever solution to sprueing! I use sticky wax mixed with the sprue wax I use, or add the sprues in first using lazy and free windows 3D builder, as that let's be build things I'd struggle to sprue as I'm clumsy
I have no clues about your craft (...but I enjoy watching it). But I wondered, whether you can put the sprues directly into the 3D-Print. It would be much easier. You could literally print the whole model + sprue + tree.
Congrats - Alien is so lifelike it is eerily frightening! Lots of persistence, love and elbow grease goes into making such art. With your videos the (provenance) will always be there - still recommend a custom foundry stamp, wax engraved initials, ID logo/symbol/marking of some sort.
Sorry, I meant provenance, not prominence. Videos mark your work and increase the value, signatures, etc. make easier to ID the artist.@@lundgrenbronzestudios
Have you read Siraya tech's website on how to cure that resin? They say the greasy stuff is the wax in the resin coming out, so maybe attach the sprues as soon as you pull it out of the IPA. Also, they recommend curing in glycerin to avoid the resin absorbing moisture. (And moisture sounds like it could be part of your issue with the cracking and flashing.)
Looks great. You know I wonder if instead of having to use a resin that is made for burning out what if you use acetone or acid to dissolve the resin out of the investment.
i use the same resin but i was recomended to submerge the print in glycerin while uv curing it becouse of oxygen in the air maybe that why the sticky resedue is there ? but very nice work !!
Yes. You just need a higher riser. That will generate more hydrostatic pressure and force the metal into the tight spaces instead up pulling. The metal. It just takes a bigger set up and more material.
Can you print a sprue in the casting resin and then "weld" them on there like you did to attach the two prints together? I would think that would work well.
Are you willing to share were you get your supplies please? Consumables like investment , casting wax, things like that. Or anything to avoid. I did my first delft sand casting using brass and it came out well thanks in part to your vids, but I want to get more complex shapes and have no need to cast the same thing twice, plus I already have a vacuum pump. Thank you so much for inspiring me to move forward with this.
I get my sprue wax flasks and investment from Rio grande jewelry supply. I use Ultravest. I get my wax from Arizona sculpting supply. It’s expensive. I have a video coming out on how I recycle the wax. The guy I use to get my petrobond from doesn’t make it anymore. The rest I kind of piece together.
There are lots of home brew formulas for investments. Gypsum is maybe 50% and fine sand types the other major ingredient with other "secret" additives to make stronger, more permeable, etc.
Because I was having trouble getting the wax to stick to the piece. The bubbles escaping have shaken it loose from the sprues. So in this case I figured the slow pour was just more gentle.
Great job! When attaching the alien to the base you could plug-weld it. That's where you drill a hole through the bottom of the base where the feet are and weld from below. That way you won't see any of the welds from above.
That’s a good idea.
You are the Joe Pera of the casting community! Love your stuff!
I hope that’s a good thing.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios yessir!
To get rid of sticky residue, maybe try putting print outside on sunny day. Then wash clean isopropyl alcohol. It works for me, but I live in sunny Australia 🇦🇺
I’ll have to try that come summer time. Right now the sun is still a little weak.
Turned out well! I still laugh at people still thinking Silicon Bronze doesn't exist, when it does, and is more common than traditional Tin Bronze.
Any 3D printing resin is reliant on temperature for several reasons. One is viscosity so within the recommended temperature range (27C for example) the resin flows correctly and there is less chance of failure. Another reason is that your resin Normal exposure time is dialed in to the temperature, current for that exposure print. If you were to print at 24C, then your exposure time would be longer and the resin would be more viscose and you would need to increase your wait time to allow the resin to reflow into the void once the build plate has risen. Purchase an internal heater for the printer and calibrate your resin for a specific temperature and you then just need to get the printer interior to that temperature and start your printing. Siraya Tech Cast - Castable resin needs to be above 25C to work correctly so around 27C should be ideal. Great bronze casts.
7:22 - The details in that casting. Holy moly.
Yeah it’s amazing what the metal can capture.
Especially the tail!
Thats an mazing job my friend 👍🏼
So, i've been sculpting digitally and occasionally printing what I make for about a year or so, I was just wondering if something like this was possible, as i've also had an interest in metal work, that I have not dabbled in at all. Looking this process up and finding out it's actually very possible at home, is super inspiring. Your bear videos were a fun watch, this whole process is both less, and MORE complicated than I thought it was, Great work!
I keep experimenting to find out what is possible.
Awesome video man! Inspiring me to cast stuff! Thanks for sharing
Absolutely amazing!!!! VOGman has a video for adding sprue using lychee, it’s super easy.
Amazing detail ... love it!!!
Fantastic!
Thank you!
You create some cool stuff keep it up 👍👍👍👍
A lot of work there! This is fantastic, Lucas!
Beauty that one mate! Just realised you’re using resin that burns out cleanly…..
I have been watching a lot of resin casting videos and have not seen one of this detail or size... The final result looks awesome, Amazing work 🙌
I don’t see a lot of people do the type of projects I do. I wish more would.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Agree, many of the best bronze works of art are similar size, and larger.
The greater the mass the higher the level of difficulty and skill required.
Looks like the wax anchor worked well for screwing, great idea!
This is skilled work, dude. Thanks for sharing
Thank you!
Nice work ❤
Nice job. Been watching long time , this is you’re beat to date . Keep it up.
Thank you!
Awesome result
I did my best! I happy with it.
You are learning so much and getting better and better at this resin part of metal melting. I am really impressed!
I keep trying and keep learning.
If you heat it up in liquid before cutting it apart, its a billion times easier and less brittle :) (I use hot water at this stage with no issues later on, as its pre curing, obvs after its had a rinse in the IPA to remove excess resin. I don't own a wash/cure station and just wiggle a box full of IPA by hand so no issues around bits breaking on that step too :) )
Clever solution to sprueing! I use sticky wax mixed with the sprue wax I use, or add the sprues in first using lazy and free windows 3D builder, as that let's be build things I'd struggle to sprue as I'm clumsy
Very nice!
Amazing!
I have no clues about your craft (...but I enjoy watching it).
But I wondered, whether you can put the sprues directly into the 3D-Print. It would be much easier. You could literally print the whole model + sprue + tree.
That might be a good option.
Congrats - Alien is so lifelike it is eerily frightening! Lots of persistence, love and elbow grease goes into making such art. With your videos the (provenance) will always be there - still recommend a custom foundry stamp, wax engraved initials, ID logo/symbol/marking of some sort.
I still need to make a makers mark.
Sorry, I meant provenance, not prominence. Videos mark your work and increase the value, signatures, etc. make easier to ID the artist.@@lundgrenbronzestudios
Its a scary queen, but amazing how it came out
Nice job
Good stuff.
Well done!
Thank you!
@@lundgrenbronzestudios How bad and for how long does the resin burnout stink?
@@esurfrider7687 bad. But I leave the garage over night so I don’t have to smell the fumes.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Also, I have some siraya tech blu I haven’t dialed in yet, would you mind sharing your exposure settings?
Another great video! Just wondering why you use Protecta Clear rather than just clear spray paint.
Simply because protecta clear is made for metal and I like the result. I’ve never tried just using clear spray paint.
Have you read Siraya tech's website on how to cure that resin?
They say the greasy stuff is the wax in the resin coming out, so maybe attach the sprues as soon as you pull it out of the IPA.
Also, they recommend curing in glycerin to avoid the resin absorbing moisture. (And moisture sounds like it could be part of your issue with the cracking and flashing.)
I was sure I read that the glycerin was only necessary for the purple resin. I’ll have to look at that again.
Results look cool. Process looks really stressful.
Bronze casting isn’t for everyone.
That's a good one
Thank you!
Looks great. You know I wonder if instead of having to use a resin that is made for burning out what if you use acetone or acid to dissolve the resin out of the investment.
I’m not sure the would work but I’ve never tried.
i use the same resin but i was recomended to submerge the print in glycerin while uv curing it becouse of oxygen in the air maybe that why the sticky resedue is there ?
but very nice work !!
I was told that glycerin was only necessary for the purple. I’ve still got a lot to learn about it.
do you have any advice or tricks to get metal casting done Without a vacuum table?
also, I'm so frigging jealous
Yes. You just need a higher riser. That will generate more hydrostatic pressure and force the metal into the tight spaces instead up pulling. The metal. It just takes a bigger set up and more material.
Can you print a sprue in the casting resin and then "weld" them on there like you did to attach the two prints together? I would think that would work well.
That would be an option.
Are you willing to share were you get your supplies please? Consumables like investment , casting wax, things like that. Or anything to avoid. I did my first delft sand casting using brass and it came out well thanks in part to your vids, but I want to get more complex shapes and have no need to cast the same thing twice, plus I already have a vacuum pump. Thank you so much for inspiring me to move forward with this.
I get my sprue wax flasks and investment from Rio grande jewelry supply. I use Ultravest.
I get my wax from Arizona sculpting supply. It’s expensive. I have a video coming out on how I recycle the wax.
The guy I use to get my petrobond from doesn’t make it anymore.
The rest I kind of piece together.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios thank you, much appreciated, I watch all your videos and learn alot from you
Hello, you are doing amazing work! I was wondering, do you do this for a living or is it a hobby?
It’s a hobby. I make almost zero money doing this.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Yeah, it seem nearly impossible to live from this activity... Can I ask what is your daily job ?
@@XeonsXeon I’m a geologist. I do ground surveys for wind farm sites.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Nice, interesting job. Eager to see what come next.
Wich welder do you use?
I use an AHP 201x. It’s a nice little tig welder.
where do you buy your sprue wax?
I get it from Rio grande jewelry supply.
Can I use construction gypsum? Will it work or not?
No it’s not made for the task. With the time it takes to prep these and cast them you will want to get the right material.
There are lots of home brew formulas for investments. Gypsum is maybe 50% and fine sand types the other major ingredient with other "secret" additives to make stronger, more permeable, etc.
Why did you choose not to vacuum your investment?
Because I was having trouble getting the wax to stick to the piece. The bubbles escaping have shaken it loose from the sprues. So in this case I figured the slow pour was just more gentle.
@11:54 "Aliens are Black" 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Well they are. Haha. I guess that sounds a little weird the way I worded it.