certainly is a P S & W (Pexto) chisel. From what i could find in my books i believe its early 1900"s to the 1920's (possibly). PS&W used this makers mark prior to WW2. Post ww2 PS&W tools would be stamped made in USA. Hope this helps! Nice job and tyvm for the great upload! :)
The difference in the rust pattern is caused by high carbon steel used for the cutting edge versus lower carbon steel for the shank. You can also see that the end of the shank was peeled over from hammering. High carbon would have chipped and broken away.
Sometimes I don't check and try and figure out where a restorer is based upon the products and equipment they use. Almost everything I see (Libby brand sauerkraut...good choice, by the way, Harbor Freight tools, etc) makes me think you're in the US. But the Fertran brand is German, and it is throwing me way off of the trail here! But I bet that Sauerkraut was awesome, yes? Great restoral, by the way! Is your brother a woodworker?
You did superstitious job!!! I’m sure your brother is so proud of you! Don’t drink beer 🍺 but you know what to do. It’s poison. I know you go to bar, restaurant and any food festivals to drink regular beers 🍻 Cheers! Great job, toolmaker!!!! See ya next project 😊
I think we all know an artist who has accidentally drank their paintbrush water mistaking it for coffee/tea. I wonder how often this happens with restoration artists and rust remover???
It looked to me that you didn't set the handle deep enough into the socket. Also I didn't see you flatten the back. After all the bevel is only half of the edge.🙂🙂
You didn't put the handle on properly. You're supposed to heat the chisel so it expands, put the handle into the socket & then quench the chisel in cold water so that it contracts onto the handle, gripping it firmly in place.
@@Piratecapt8383 In very warm, dry weather the handle will shrink, become loose & drop out. You should have heated the metal, inserted the handle then quenched it. That's the correct way to do it.
What a chore. I don't people,really take into consideration that when working on something with a hardened edge or a tempered one, that care needs to be taken not to get it too hot. I've seen lots of guys place their knives inside of fires for cooking, and they leave tne blades in. Or worse, they use the edge to 'cut through' a clam or oyster shell. The stupidity in that one is astounding. I took one person's knife away because we kept getting reports we were to be attacked, and we were dangerously low on ammo. So this guy started practicing taking down someone by using an old tire. Wore the edge off and took the temper out of the blade. He couldn't see thst his actions were endangering everyone. Luckily we were resupplyed then attacked and he did have to use his knife. Three times. Luckily I hardened the blade again for him. It's always the little things that get you
Impressive,very nice looking chisel.kudos 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Good job mister beautifully restored well done
It looks great and you did a wonderful job restoring it as well!!!!
I enjoyed your video so I gave it a Thumbs Up
Another beautiful restoring 😊😊
That's beautiful work
Nicely done. 👍
⚒️⚒️⚒️ Excellent work! Bravo to the master! Very much liked it!!!
You could turn that into a useful slick with a longer handle. I have a 4” James Swann and it’s incredibly useful. About 18” handle. Nice job! 👍🏻
Clean & bright
Nice. 😊
certainly is a P S & W (Pexto) chisel. From what i could find in my books i believe its early 1900"s to the 1920's (possibly). PS&W used this makers mark prior to WW2. Post ww2 PS&W tools would be stamped made in USA. Hope this helps! Nice job and tyvm for the great upload! :)
Great job! Love seeing an old tool fixed and reused Thank you!
Super jest te bardzo stare dłudko odrestaurowane pozdrawiam serdecznie 👍👍👍👍👍
Did the handle not need to be glued in?
Класс 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
I'm glad you left a little patina on the blade.
The difference in the rust pattern is caused by high carbon steel used for the cutting edge versus lower carbon steel for the shank. You can also see that the end of the shank was peeled over from hammering. High carbon would have chipped and broken away.
PS and W 0 clue
2:20 The Forrbiden Beer 👀
Sometimes I don't check and try and figure out where a restorer is based upon the products and equipment they use. Almost everything I see (Libby brand sauerkraut...good choice, by the way, Harbor Freight tools, etc) makes me think you're in the US. But the Fertran brand is German, and it is throwing me way off of the trail here! But I bet that Sauerkraut was awesome, yes? Great restoral, by the way! Is your brother a woodworker?
hey i wanted to ask what is the name of that center marking device i would like to buy it
so sharp
Excelente 👍👍
Muito bom 😃
Now you need to find yourself a proper mallet.
He needs to restore one.
Aqui no meu país 🇧🇷 essa ferramenta é conhecida como fortão. Muito útil na carpintaria ou marcenaria
thats a timber slick.
Next video: my first homemade wood mallet
I reckon your brother will be chiselling for a while with that.
👍👍👍
You can sharpen my chisels anytime!
Good for another thirty years.
“It’s perfect”
You did superstitious job!!! I’m sure your brother is so proud of you!
Don’t drink beer 🍺 but you know what to do. It’s poison.
I know you go to bar, restaurant and any food festivals to drink regular beers 🍻
Cheers! Great job, toolmaker!!!! See ya next project 😊
I think we all know an artist who has accidentally drank their paintbrush water mistaking it for coffee/tea. I wonder how often this happens with restoration artists and rust remover???
It looked to me that you didn't set the handle deep enough into the socket. Also I didn't see you flatten the back. After all the bevel is only half of the edge.🙂🙂
nice❤
You didn't put the handle on properly. You're supposed to heat the chisel so it expands, put the handle into the socket & then quench the chisel in cold water so that it contracts onto the handle, gripping it firmly in place.
No they are friction fit. Its wood it changes with weather and humidity. Should not have glued it either.
@@Piratecapt8383 In very warm, dry weather the handle will shrink, become loose & drop out. You should have heated the metal, inserted the handle then quenched it. That's the correct way to do it.
Rusted for sure but not so badly pitted. Good job as always, but a lot of work for a thing that doesn't worth that much...
if this is the worst you've seen, then you haven't seen much.
What a chore. I don't people,really take into consideration that when working on something with a hardened edge or a tempered one, that care needs to be taken not to get it too hot. I've seen lots of guys place their knives inside of fires for cooking, and they leave tne blades in. Or worse, they use the edge to 'cut through' a clam or oyster shell. The stupidity in that one is astounding. I took one person's knife away because we kept getting reports we were to be attacked, and we were dangerously low on ammo. So this guy started practicing taking down someone by using an old tire. Wore the edge off and took the temper out of the blade. He couldn't see thst his actions were endangering everyone. Luckily we were resupplyed then attacked and he did have to use his knife. Three times. Luckily I hardened the blade again for him. It's always the little things that get you