Making A Broach To Cut Keyways
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2024
- G'day everyone,
Now that I have a press for the workshop, I now need some proper tooling for it. One thing that has been on the top of my list of things to do with the press is to cut keyways into parts (mostly gears). I have ordered a off the shelf 3mm keyway tool, however a the 5mm broach which was for sale was too tall for the press. So in this video I will try and recrate one using a piece of O1 tool steel.
#machining #diy
Timestamps
0:00 - Gears and Keyways
2:49 - Making The Cutting Jig
4:04 - Making The Keyway Broach
8:34 - Heat Treatment
10:47 - Making The Keyway Broach Bushing
12:40 - Testing The Borach in Aluminium and Steel
Lathe - Hafco Al250g
Mill - Sieg X2.7l - Наука та технологія
This channel is the epitome of "done is better than perfect." The number of projects you've completed that seem beyond the reach of a little home shop is really impressive.
Math is important, I should’ve paid a lot more attention in school.
@@wm12ga0
Sunday morning coffee watching Artisan Makes and Blondihacks making great projects on small machines.
Add clough42 and rotarySMP to that list
You'll never guess this. The hole in a lock where you put your key is in fact called a keyway
Key Hole.
😮 shut up! 🤯
AFAIK, you can periodically back the press a little bit for releasing the tension and preventing the broach from breaking in case something is not aligned good enough.
Just an FYI for future. You can 3D print the bushing for keyway cutting. I’ve done so in the past and never had an issue. Just make sure you leave a bit extra at the bottom to help support the cutter. Also 100 infill helps.
I don't think he will ever incorporate 3D printing into his videos, since he's more on the trad machinist/blacksmith side of things
I'm a 110% infill dude. 3d printing is just really healpful.
It is an unending source of wonder that artisan makes achieves so much with what? A mini lather, a cheap mill and a hacksaw. The whole shop must be in the order of 1,000 AUD. Quite amazing.
Silly suggestion: grind the broach even thinner, then shim it to the left/right and do two passes so that you can keep to the standard key stock.
I can almost smell the bandsaw build series! 😆 Great video bud!
For a crisp parting edge where the weld meets the unpainted base table surface, you could always tape right up close to the weld and then brush on some Vaseline right up to the horizontal edge before painting. Not sure I'm explaining that right but the paint wont adhere to the Vaseline and it can be quickly, and pretty accurately applied to the uneven area and cleaned off rather easily afterwards. I apologize, I'm shit at explaining things but I swear it works. An old industrial machine equipments painter showed me that trick in the late 90's and I'll never forget it.
I’ve been watching for 1.5 years waiting for your cast gear series to come back.
I knew we were making some progress with the press!
... I sense the hacksaw becoming a meme for this channel
Three words "Metal Cutting Bandsaw" it was a revelation 🤣
I cringe every time I see him cut something by hand. You would think with his skills we shouldn't be seeing hand sawn parts.
He's said more than once, space is a big issue in his shop. He doesn't have the space.
In all the years I have been watching your videos, you have never, ever failed to amaze me in some way or another.
Putting that pin in to use for even spacing was genius.
Well done yet again.
BYW, looking at some of the comments, I see I'm not the only one waiting for band saw build.😂
👍
Well done as always. I like how you get around the problems you sometimes create for yourself. I'm looking forward to the next episode.
Thankyou. The next episode should be an interesting one.
At 15:20, you could hollow grind the sides of the broach maybe 0.001 to give some side relief to the cutting teeth while traveling through the guide bushing and the side of the keyway slot being made. Excellent video.
You probably could and I'm sure that might improve things. I'm not sure how i would with my set up. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Does your mill head tilt right or left? You could use your cup grinder on the tilted head and run your table left & right until you got the relief you need.
Unfortunately mine doesn't, that's the next. Model up from mine which does. Cheers
@@artisanmakes just mount it on a sine plate
Would a ball end mill of a size to give a shallow "hollow ground" effect along the line of teeth do the trick. Fiddly to set the piece so the cutting line is correct (but doable with the holding vice). Then the side of the cutting edge gets relieved while the full width of the cutter is engaging the guide.
Gday, nothing wrong with that cutter, it worked great, top job, cheers
Brilliant jig sir! I really enjoy how you solve problems in a practical and simple way. Explanations are spot on too, even I can understand them.
I just ordered an 8x33" bench mill. Can't wait to get started in this hobby, you've been such an inspiration :)
Great video, great build. This was an area I wondered about fabricating my own broaches. Your video helped me understand the dynamics and give me confidence of trying to do one myself.
Thanks for sharing.
Great to hear. I thought it would be quite difficult but the geometry seems to be quite straightforward. Cheers
Great build ! The press was a great build adventure. Your channel keeps getting better with each week's episode, I always enjoy watching Cheers
hey i tipp for heattreating. Just get your self some Sheetmetall for heattreating,You can pack everthing in their nice and tight,Just fold over the corners 2-3 times and hit them flat with a hammer. To prevent oxidation.Just place some paper next to the part.The bruning paper will use up all o2
Voted #1 for excellent machining projects w/o use of a bandsaw
You should try some Heat Treatment Paint, I use it for heat treating knives and it works really well to stop scaling.
Just don't make the same mistake that I made and others have made and only apply a single coat. Heat treatment paint is a paint and like any paint it requires several coats to get full coverage. I've found 3 coats is good anything over that is overkill and a waste.
Great video as always! 👍👍
That came out so good!
One more successful project. Thanks for the video.
Great work 👍🇬🇧
Works a treat.
I love your work. I am going to attempt to make a broach myself. Thanks.
ImPRESSive. Also: you might not be the LPL, but you certainly are the keyway broaching machinist, now.
I'm always impressed with the way you make tooling in your shop.
good result !
cheers ben.
Nicely done 👍
Clickspring shows you how to make a square broach which you can easily adapt to make yours that little bit better if you want to, I mean it seems to do it's job plenty well enough but it's there if you want. He also shows how to make loads of different tooling etc and his work is exceptional. He shows ways to get precision in cases, where getting even close is hard for most showing ways to set up your lathe etc to get the best out of it no matter what. I mean you seem to have managed anyway but honestly if you're not already watching Clickspring you really, really should as he takes what you can do in a small shop to the next level.
Another great build and video.
Works like a charm.
Great job!
Outstanding!! Been a subscriber since the early days, and your channel just keeps getting better and better
Thankyou
Fantastic job!
this is something I need to make for making the drive pulleys on my belt grinder ....thanks for the how to, because I wasnt too sure lol
Thanks for this one as well!
👍💪✌
Lovely cheeky script. Nice build. Banger vid, cheers.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great work
Great job 👍
I'm glad you did it a second time so you showed that the first time was not a fluke.
That and I needed to see if it would broach steel. Aluminium is a bit too easym cheers
Love your videos! 😊
Thank you
Very successful brochure fab way to go.
Nice work
Most excellent!
Cheers
ok. I can`t see a note about a patreon. you need to get yourself a partreon. IF ONLY to get yourself a metal bandsaw. my arm aches just watching you!!!
(awesome content, and the humour is exquisite. thanks for the work).
Nice job! You want to make sure you’re lifting the ram off the broach every so often so it doesn’t tip the whole setup forward. That causes more slop in the keyway. Cheers!
Nice job showing that a workable broach can be made in most of our home shops. Honing the broach teeth' gullets will reduce the friction of forcing the broch through metal. I found using a ceramic hone as the last step in sharpening high-speed steel lathe bits gave them a longer cutting life. I had to sharpen a profile bit every 6 hours the ceramic hone increased the tool life to 9 hours.
Most excellent.
you would have to be happy with that!!! good job👍👍👍
very impressive ! now i want to make a press
2 broach videos in 1 weekend. Nice
Nice, gives me some ideas
Professional results in a hobby shop.
Nice work pal! 👍You didn't go over the math for the DOC per tooth etc. I make it about .005-.006 DOCPT and that gives ~ .080 Required shim thickness to step up. I think it will work a lot better if you grind the back clearance with your cup wheel to sharpen the teeth which are eroded from the heat treat. You might also consider alternating interrupted cut on each tooth. That give a place for the chips to collapse into.
Nice video. I did this at a bigger scale and I found this work the most terrifying. I always feared the broach would shatter and put schrapnel in my face.
AvE did a good video on broaching, seems like you already solved your problem but that video has some good hints on broaching.
If you are going to make custom broaches, you are about to going to be one out of five companies world wide.
An exclusive club eh. Cheers
He is just trolling us now with the hacksaw
Well done. Better than having nothing. 👍👍👍
Yay! That’s great
Good man. Your site gives a great instruction to many who have never been educated by metalwork classes as most of my generation was. The videos are a treat to look forward to. In age ascendancy Tubalcain, Abom.Artisan Makes. Who would want more? Cheers matey.
Sure beats a hand file... Thumbs Up!
Return of the hacksaw
the old lathe 🥺
Very injoy ❤😊
O1 steel is very forgiving for hardening. thats why I used it for knife making.
I get winded every video just watching the 2 second cut of this man sawing through andromeda sized lumps of steel with a freaking hacksaw. Im fully convinced this man will have a working small homeshop made aeroplane before he gets a freacking bandsaw.
you should get some stamps to mark this as a 5mm broach before hardening
Goog video! Can you tell me the model of the press?
Nice! It's good to see another expensive workshop tool closely matched in a home workshop. I'd even go as far to say that if someone really needed one of these, something like your design could be done with a file and some time.
Very creative approach. Was the depth of the broach dictated by the diameter of the bore in the work?
Yes it was. It is a 20mm bore so I was able to make the broach itself 15 or so mm deep
Try ATP-641 for protect parts during hardening
Genius thinking with the pin, to make even distances for the rest of the teeth's! :-))
I did that once with a parting blade and a grinder. 10$ parting blade was way cheaper than the 80$ specialty broach I needed
100% for trying to do something and never giving up
Looking great, one day you will get bandsaw 😂
He's still using that hacksaw!
You can heat treat o-1 with a torch very easily. Just heat the part till a magnet doesn’t stick and quench in oil/atf.
Where did you get the tool steel in Australia?
I use edcon steel. They shipped it out to me. I think think it was $30 for a piece of 5x25x500 o1 tool steel.
It isn't my original tip but as you press down on the broach, let off occasionally to allow it to find its own happy place on the face of the ram.
3:00 How come you don't have a band saw ?
⭐🙂👍
I am Im-pressed!
Did you leave the broach full hard? I didn't hear mention of tempering it back.
Since he didn't quench it red hot, I doubt it's fully hardened.
Two wrongs making a right.
I did temper it back I just didn't do it on camera. The quench left it 60-65hrc and it was tempered back to 50-55hrc.
Edit- autocorrect messed that reply up
You also need to quench it before you remove the clay. Otherwise it will oxidize as soon as you expose it to air
A small bit if of oxidation is okay. But I wouldn't have thought that the part would have cooled down fast enough if i left the clay on. Cheers
Impressive result. 👍
I noticed that you did not hacksaw the 5mm steel haha
I agree. And… 4:12… oh, but of course he used the hacksaw! 😂
I sure did. I didn't record all of it but annealed O1 tool steel isnt that hard to cut. ua-cam.com/video/gVL7PmT4iXk/v-deo.html
@@artisanmakes yeah but you milled most of it away, you could have hacksawed that... 😎
I can hacksaw straight bit probably not that straight :)
Next thing you should invest in is one of those hand held bandsaws to cut stuff with
He's more likely to build a bandsaw than buy one. Big issue is space, one of these days he'll have to show just how small his work area is.
The amount of comments he farms using that hacksaw is so impressive. You-Tube loves the engagement. Trolls being trolled and not realizing. You'll never see a power saw even if he has one.
When you're heat treating parts use anti-scale compound or use an air hardening steel with stainless tool wrap. You'll have much better results.
Hi, can u tell me what grit the cup grinding wheel is please. Also what size is it
It is a Norton 100/76mm tapered cup grinding wheel, this is the medium fine grit. I think I paid $40-50 for it.
@@artisanmakes thanks for the quick reply
You stated that the taper from end to end of the broach was 1 degree and that the teeth were relieved 11 degrees. How many degrees are between the teeth, I mean the angle away from square that forms the cutting edge?
It's about 30
Thank You@@artisanmakes
This hole time you could have done it on the lathe. I like to cut a rounded slot with a endmill on the mill and finish it up broaching it square on the lathe.
Hole time or Whole time, either way I thought it was a good pun🤣
@@ddoherty5956 🤣 Supposed to be whole time but hole time was just to good to pass up.
2:00 press is not tall enough ? just need a hole in surface beneath or jack up the press, too simple ? or can the press work horizontally
Какую марку стали применили для протяжки?
O1 tool steel
@@artisanmakes Oh yes, this is what you need for broaching👍
Brohh,how long did it take to cut toolsteel with a hacksaw?
not hardened when it was cut.
Not long. Maybe a minute. It's annealed tool steel and a cobalt hacksaw blade
@@artisanmakes one more question,I am no machinist,just want to start the hobby,But why dont you just cut your stock ect. with a grinder?is there a reason behind it
I do grind stuff but not if I can avoid it. It's messy and I have to cover the ways on the lathe to keep grit off of them. Plus it throws grit and dust on the camera and lense. I ruined a camera lense focusing motor once with grit and I would want to avoid that again.
That is why I don't do it if i can.
Cheers
@@artisanmakes Awesome stuff,all makes sense now....thanx!🫡
Great job! My only comment/question is shouldn't you harden the keyway bushing too?
My commercial bushings are not hardened.
@@glennwright9747 Ah, OK then. I don't own a broach kit myself. (It's still far down my long list of wish-I-hads.) Good to know. Thanks.
@@HangarQueen the shims for the second cut are even softer. If you don’t grease the broach it drags them down. 😢
I programmed an NC lathe to cut keyways, just stop the spindle zero RPM's, feed the cutting tool at about .015 depth each pass. Cut a 1/2" key in about 35 seconds., no broach needed.
I've seen a few people do that, much easier than broaching
You said the broach was about 30um undersize, but you didn't say if it cuts exactly at 4.7mm. If it cuts a little oversize, 3/16" is ~4.76mm, so you may be able to buy 3/16" key stock and not need to grind down 5mm key stock. Assuming 3/16" key stock is available to you, I don't know its availability outside the US.
I haven't the tools to properly measure it bit I would assume that it would cut somewhere around 4.97mm give or take. A little bit bit sanding was all it took for the key to fit tight. Cheers
Instead of using shim stock, why not make a few more guide bushings that have less depth. That would allow even deeper keyways with the same tool.
If that won't work, why not?