Could you please reconfirm the model #, or provide correct link for the plug-in type Kaiweets outlet tester. Your tool reference shows on AMZ as a different type tester. Love your videos. Thanks much.
Did this today, with your help. Thank you! I wanted an outlet in a little counter area by my garage door. My monitor and server sit there for home security. Previously I had an extension cord running from the hall way. It was about 4 feet, but looked so messy. I was able to pull form the light switch on the other side (in the garage). Thanks again for the detailed instructions.
Nicely done. I am not an electrician but I would add one thing. In the limited number of jobs I did early in my life I always used a wire twist connector. Today I would use a lever connector in most cases. If you choose to use a wire connector, it is essential to use the right size connector. Wire connectors are identified by color and are further identified by the weight and number of wires that can be connected using that connector that information is contained on the box or may be identified on a chart in the store where you purchased the connector or online. Here the connector(s) were not even twisted and as indicated would be an extreme issue worthy of taking a look at the whole house. I had a house built once and as I followed the work of the electricians I noticed that they had stripped the wires into the box wrong and cut into the wires at the point where they stripped the outside sheathing. Much of the project had to be redone. It was a fire waiting to happen. BTW, I believe that stud finder you were using can also detect electrical wiring. I would check that as well. Especially before using a drywall saw.
Im a fan! Great work, however I was always taught to not put two wires on same terminal screw; but to pigtail it with either a wire nut or a wego connector, and slide one wire into place and of course electrical tape around the wego and outlet for added protection. Your work is clear and clean. Thank you for the vid! I just subscribed! ❤
Great Job Jim You Are Awesome ! When I See One Or Both Of Your Dogs In Your Videos It Makes Me Smile. I Know They Bring Much Joy To You And Your Family . 👍
I will be posting a video very soon about a change to my house . On a recent trip to Florida I stopped in an animal rescue and learned about a very sad case.Long story short there will be 3 dogs in my videos. What for the upcoming video.
I just subscribed because I need to learn how to do this for my bathroom. Who builds a house and does not put an electrical outlet in the bathroom?? However, your videographer did not allow me to really get a good look. But I still look forward to learning home repairs from you. I bought a home in October and it’s my first & forever home but I’m a single 55 y.o. woman who works a lot of hours and I do not have the money to hire repair people to help me with odd jobs, like changing a light switch into a light switch outlet combo. Thank you for helping people and sharing your knowledge. 😊
Hi, good Q; the reason is safety. Bathrooms can get very humid and a regular socket could electrocute you when it's damp because it carries supply voltage (110V or 220V). Hotels, usually, have a special socket that has inside a mains isolating transformer that is effectively double insulatedc from the mains supply. They aren't expensive, just get advice from the hardware store on what's best for your location/regs. Here in the Philippines you often find a regular socket in the bathroom; in my last house I swapped it out for an isolating socket I bought online.
Trying to add a light fromThe outlet but the outlet has both neutral & hot terminals already are used. I believe one is going to the ceiling fan. Is it possible to add another light to the same outlet by pigtailing all three wires(hot,fan,light) & connecting to just one terminal?..doing same to neutrals. thank you.
Is it possible to reliably tap power from a existing power source connected to a three way switch? I recently added an outlet to my three way hall lighting following all proper wiring instructions. However, with the lights on the tester tells me hot and neutral are reversed. With the lights off the tester says ground and hot are reversed!!! Any ideas what I’m doing wrong?
I see that there are 2 black wires on the switch. Are they “backstabbed” ? If they are, why didn’t you create a pigtail and get rid of the backstab connection?
IT would be helpful to explain the actual electrical flow since you chained the neutral wire to the positive wire from the panel. It would seem as if you somehow changed the neutral wire from the panel to a positive wire, therefor reversing the polaritive of the panel. Follow the actual flow of the current.
The switch has one hot wire (incoming power) on one terminal and a switch leg or load on the other one and that goes to the light. The neutral wire from the incoming cable connects with the wire nut to join the neutral from the light, so the neutral current can pass through. The switch doesn't use a neutral wire, but it makes and breaks the current on the hot wire. He has a higher grade switch which allows the wires to be clamped under a plate when the screw is tightened. He took the black wire from the new 12/2 and joined it with the incoming power at that point under the plate, totally valid. Now he has an always hot wire for the receptacle. He got the neutral wire for the receptacle by joining it with the 2 neutral (white) wires in the switch box. The neutral wire is not "chained" to the hot wire. BTW, there's no positive wire in AC electricity, but it alternates between positive and negative 120v at 60 Hz and is called a hot wire because it always has 120vac when the circuit is live. The neutral wire is the center point between +120v and -120v and is at 0v.
I Was planning on installing an outlet in the hall of my house like you did. The 2 switches on either end of the hall that operate a light fixture are 3 way switches. looking at the switches and a diagram it showed that The neutral wire from the panel doesn't go to the switch it goes direct to the light fixture. Unless you know something I Don't It does not look like I can tap into a 3 Way switch for an outlet since there is no neutral wire at the switch going directly to the Panel.
Is your house older? Older homes very rarely if ever had neutral (white) wires or ground (green/copper) wires ran to outlets or switches. Code now requires a neutral(white) wire to be ran to every box. All ur smart switches/receptacles (plug-ins as we call them here n TN lol) and a lot of the dimmer switches won’t work without a neutral wire. To add to the first part older homes also didn’t have ground wire (green/copper) inside the boxes. I would b scared to know how many older homes didn’t have ground wires period but if it was done correctly if it was a metal box they would b on a screw located outside on the back of the box. Unfortunately unless someone went ahead and installed ground wire themselves unfortunately they would never know until something bad happened. Not sure if this helped maybe u already knew this but good luck.
Problem is that most light switches don't have a common wire in the box. If you pull the switch out and look in the box and don't see the common wire (white wire) then this can't be done most light switches are just breaking the hot wire and don't need the common.
The switch I want to add an outlet off of has two wires connected to it. A white wire and a black wire, the ground wire is cut off and is not used. The old switch has only two places to put wire. I have a new switch, the new switch has three spots for wire connections and one connection for a ground so 4 total. two on one side and one on the opposite side, same side as the ground. can I wire an outlet from this switch and retain the switch as is?. I want to add an outlet about 3 feet away from this switch to plug a charger into and I want to keep the switch as it is for a light.
The way you describe your new switch sounds like a three way switch and isn't appropriate for your use case. It also sounds like you do not have power from the panel in your switch box, which is common in older homes. The wires in there are likely a switch leg and the power from the panel is at your lighting fixture. If you're curious as to how this is wired, there are diagrams in a Google image search of switch leg wiring. In this scenario, you do not have a neutral wire present and will not be able to run a receptacle from that box. That white wire currently at your switch should be field labeled as a hot with black electrical tape or some other marking, but I know in my house none of the white conductors were field labeled. In newer builds, a neutral is required to be present in every switch box but it's a relatively new addition to the NEC (I believe since 2011, but I could be wrong). Long story short, you cannot do what he did in the video and if you're not comfortable relocating your source power from the light to the switch box, please call an electrician.
@niemo118 Awesome thanks for the response. I've come to this same conclusion after some digging a little while back. I plan on just running a wire from a Junction in the basement that's connected to a 20amp breaker. The wires in that Junction go to the man-cave and wouldn't have much of a load so I think it should be fine. Thanks for your response 👍🏽
As mentioned in another video, wise to check with your local authority to know if this is ok in your area. Also this will be much harder if the neutral is not present in the box. Another point - when using a jab saw, be careful not to go too deep and poke out the wall on the other side, and work carefully in case there are pipes or wires inside the wall. -- A pet peeve of mine is cutting the romex leaving too much wire handing out of the wall. I usually go ahead and wire the downstream device before cutting. Copper is getting pretty expensive. Code is to leave 6” past the sheathing, and 3” past the wall. The extra sheathing inside the box can be problematic. Using the strip gauge on the outlet prevents having to trim. Be careful not to get the insulation under the screw or pressure plate.
Could you please reconfirm the model #, or provide correct link for the plug-in type Kaiweets outlet tester. Your tool reference shows on AMZ as a different type tester. Love your videos. Thanks much.
Here is the link . They did update the style but it is the same.amzn.to/3CK9FDv
A very professional and informative video, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I love that your dog hears you talking and needs to come in see what you are doing! Great video as always Jim, Great info.
Thanks Mike.They do follow me everywhere when I'm working.
Awesome job! Like the way you take your time, do it correctly and don't make a mess out of it. Love your 4 pawed hairy helper too! 😁
Glad you enjoyed the video, the furry helper always makes an appearance!
Did this today, with your help. Thank you! I wanted an outlet in a little counter area by my garage door. My monitor and server sit there for home security. Previously I had an extension cord running from the hall way. It was about 4 feet, but looked so messy. I was able to pull form the light switch on the other side (in the garage). Thanks again for the detailed instructions.
Nicely done. I am not an electrician but I would add one thing. In the limited number of jobs I did early in my life I always used a wire twist connector. Today I would use a lever connector in most cases. If you choose to use a wire connector, it is essential to use the right size connector. Wire connectors are identified by color and are further identified by the weight and number of wires that can be connected using that connector that information is contained on the box or may be identified on a chart in the store where you purchased the connector or online. Here the connector(s) were not even twisted and as indicated would be an extreme issue worthy of taking a look at the whole house. I had a house built once and as I followed the work of the electricians I noticed that they had stripped the wires into the box wrong and cut into the wires at the point where they stripped the outside sheathing. Much of the project had to be redone. It was a fire waiting to happen. BTW, I believe that stud finder you were using can also detect electrical wiring. I would check that as well. Especially before using a drywall saw.
I watched many videos and by far this one is the best. I just completed this project flawlessly because of your tutorial. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Hands down I'd say your video is the best I've see here.Very detailed and safety oriented 😊👍🏽👏🏽 Thank you for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
Im a fan! Great work, however I was always taught to not put two wires on same terminal screw; but to pigtail it with either a wire nut or a wego connector, and slide one wire into place and of course electrical tape around the wego and outlet for added protection. Your work is clear and clean. Thank you for the vid! I just subscribed! ❤
Great Job Jim You Are Awesome ! When I See One Or Both Of Your Dogs In Your Videos It Makes Me Smile. I Know They Bring Much Joy To You And Your Family . 👍
I will be posting a video very soon about a change to my house . On a recent trip to Florida I stopped in an animal rescue and learned about a very sad case.Long story short there will be 3 dogs in my videos. What for the upcoming video.
I just subscribed because I need to learn how to do this for my bathroom. Who builds a house and does not put an electrical outlet in the bathroom?? However, your videographer did not allow me to really get a good look. But I still look forward to learning home repairs from you. I bought a home in October and it’s my first & forever home but I’m a single 55 y.o. woman who works a lot of hours and I do not have the money to hire repair people to help me with odd jobs, like changing a light switch into a light switch outlet combo.
Thank you for helping people and sharing your knowledge. 😊
Welcome to the channel. Good luck with your projects. If you need any advice just ask.
Hi, good Q; the reason is safety. Bathrooms can get very humid and a regular socket could electrocute you when it's damp because it carries supply voltage (110V or 220V). Hotels, usually, have a special socket that has inside a mains isolating transformer that is effectively double insulatedc from the mains supply. They aren't expensive, just get advice from the hardware store on what's best for your location/regs. Here in the Philippines you often find a regular socket in the bathroom; in my last house I swapped it out for an isolating socket I bought online.
My good friend 🐕🐕 is just watching and waiting for the job get done so he can take a nap 😴 noiseless
Thanks!
Thank you for the $ I'm happy to help.
great video love the curious dog.feed him, he looks hungry
Thank you very much! I just adopted here check out her sad story.
ua-cam.com/video/LfLKOKmrX6g/v-deo.html
Thanks for simple instructions!
Glad it was helpful!
I wantbto do this in my bathroom. Can i do that? Im assuming i need the bathroom outlet with the reset? Can i do that this way?
A couple of barks, the audio goes silent, cut to puppy-dog apology-eyes at 2:22 😄
Nice touch 💕
Hi is the Lighting power the same as power outlets in the US?
because here in the UK our cabling & amperage is different?
A very well done video. You are so thorough in your explanation and particular in your work. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Trying to add a light fromThe outlet but the outlet has both neutral & hot terminals already are used. I believe one is going to the ceiling fan. Is it possible to add another light to the same outlet by pigtailing all three wires(hot,fan,light) & connecting to just one terminal?..doing same to neutrals. thank you.
Can this be done with the new outlet connected to a kitchen refrigerator?
Is it possible to reliably tap power from a existing power source connected to a three way switch?
I recently added an outlet to my three way hall lighting following all proper wiring instructions. However, with the lights on the tester tells me hot and neutral are reversed. With the lights off the tester says ground and hot are reversed!!!
Any ideas what I’m doing wrong?
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
Great work
Yes those tab screws turn HARD!!!
I see that there are 2 black wires on the switch. Are they “backstabbed” ? If they are, why didn’t you create a pigtail and get rid of the backstab connection?
What wire do I need to use for this project?
IT would be helpful to explain the actual electrical flow since you chained the neutral wire to the positive wire from the panel. It would seem as if you somehow changed the neutral wire from the panel to a positive wire, therefor reversing the polaritive of the panel. Follow the actual flow of the current.
The switch has one hot wire (incoming power) on one terminal and a switch leg or load on the other one and that goes to the light. The neutral wire from the incoming cable connects with the wire nut to join the neutral from the light, so the neutral current can pass through. The switch doesn't use a neutral wire, but it makes and breaks the current on the hot wire. He has a higher grade switch which allows the wires to be clamped under a plate when the screw is tightened. He took the black wire from the new 12/2 and joined it with the incoming power at that point under the plate, totally valid. Now he has an always hot wire for the receptacle. He got the neutral wire for the receptacle by joining it with the 2 neutral (white) wires in the switch box. The neutral wire is not "chained" to the hot wire. BTW, there's no positive wire in AC electricity, but it alternates between positive and negative 120v at 60 Hz and is called a hot wire because it always has 120vac when the circuit is live. The neutral wire is the center point between +120v and -120v and is at 0v.
Nice dog😊
Thank you 😊
...very nice DIY video, Jim....thanks for posting. Question: how do you know which black wire on the switch is always hot?... 🙂
Good question. If you not sure then you can use a non contact voltage tester to see which one is the live wire. Thanks for watching.
I Was planning on installing an outlet in the hall of my house like you did. The 2 switches on either end of the hall that operate a light fixture are 3 way switches. looking at the switches and a diagram it showed that The neutral wire from the panel doesn't go to the switch it goes direct to the light fixture. Unless you know something I Don't It does not look like I can tap into a 3 Way switch for an outlet since there is no neutral wire at the switch going directly to the Panel.
Is your house older? Older homes very rarely if ever had neutral (white) wires or ground (green/copper) wires ran to outlets or switches. Code now requires a neutral(white) wire to be ran to every box. All ur smart switches/receptacles (plug-ins as we call them here n TN lol) and a lot of the dimmer switches won’t work without a neutral wire. To add to the first part older homes also didn’t have ground wire (green/copper) inside the boxes. I would b scared to know how many older homes didn’t have ground wires period but if it was done correctly if it was a metal box they would b on a screw located outside on the back of the box. Unfortunately unless someone went ahead and installed ground wire themselves unfortunately they would never know until something bad happened. Not sure if this helped maybe u already knew this but good luck.
My light switch only has 2 wires, white and black. would an outlet still work off this?
There should be a ground inside the box somewhere. Does the house wiring have a metal shielding on it or is it rubber?
Thank you, it was a double light switch and when I pulled the box all the way out I found it.
Problem is that most light switches don't have a common wire in the box. If you pull the switch out and look in the box and don't see the common wire (white wire) then this can't be done most light switches are just breaking the hot wire and don't need the common.
Very true
I have 1 white 1 black and a ground! Is it possible?
@@jhoseI Yes it is.
The switch I want to add an outlet off of has two wires connected to it. A white wire and a black wire, the ground wire is cut off and is not used. The old switch has only two places to put wire. I have a new switch, the new switch has three spots for wire connections and one connection for a ground so 4 total. two on one side and one on the opposite side, same side as the ground. can I wire an outlet from this switch and retain the switch as is?. I want to add an outlet about 3 feet away from this switch to plug a charger into and I want to keep the switch as it is for a light.
The way you describe your new switch sounds like a three way switch and isn't appropriate for your use case. It also sounds like you do not have power from the panel in your switch box, which is common in older homes. The wires in there are likely a switch leg and the power from the panel is at your lighting fixture. If you're curious as to how this is wired, there are diagrams in a Google image search of switch leg wiring. In this scenario, you do not have a neutral wire present and will not be able to run a receptacle from that box. That white wire currently at your switch should be field labeled as a hot with black electrical tape or some other marking, but I know in my house none of the white conductors were field labeled. In newer builds, a neutral is required to be present in every switch box but it's a relatively new addition to the NEC (I believe since 2011, but I could be wrong).
Long story short, you cannot do what he did in the video and if you're not comfortable relocating your source power from the light to the switch box, please call an electrician.
@niemo118 Awesome thanks for the response. I've come to this same conclusion after some digging a little while back. I plan on just running a wire from a Junction in the basement that's connected to a 20amp breaker. The wires in that Junction go to the man-cave and wouldn't have much of a load so I think it should be fine. Thanks for your response 👍🏽
How do you determine what connection on the switch is the supply line and contact and not the line going to the light ?
use a multi-meter, just check it.
As The Hunter Vlog said just for voltage on the line.
Does this matter if is a 3- way switch or not?
No as long as you connect to the correct power wire.
As mentioned in another video, wise to check with your local authority to know if this is ok in your area.
Also this will be much harder if the neutral is not present in the box.
Another point - when using a jab saw, be careful not to go too deep and poke out the wall on the other side, and work carefully in case there are pipes or wires inside the wall.
-- A pet peeve of mine is cutting the romex leaving too much wire handing out of the wall. I usually go ahead and wire the downstream device before cutting. Copper is getting pretty expensive. Code is to leave 6” past the sheathing, and 3” past the wall. The extra sheathing inside the box can be problematic.
Using the strip gauge on the outlet prevents having to trim. Be careful not to get the insulation under the screw or pressure plate.
In the Philippines, this is a code violation.
@randomlife7935 in the Phillipines the Philippines is a code violation
@@randomlife7935 in the philippines, nothing works
I have 1 black wire, 1 white wire and a copper wire. I want to be able to use my outlet without haveing to turn on my light switch
The first step is to establish that there's a neutral, not just a switch leg.
arent you jim the mechanic ??
Good observation. Yes it is me. Hope you subscribe
Make sure the power is turned off!
Assistant is behind