Max, relooking your video, you said you used the 32mm socket as your initial hammer-time tool. Was the 32mm socket spot on with the bearing? I am thinking to just go buy a 32mm socket and have a bolt welded into it with a steel disc or bolt on top to hammer on. This way, I can hold it in place vs having a socket that may move when hit. Also, on the flip side, when you use an old bearing to hammer in the new one and it slips around, use some electrical tape around the diameter where they meet so they don't separate for the initial bite. Once it starts to seat properly, peel off the tape and tap the rest in. I say this because if the old bearing ever slipped for some reason at the time of tge strike of the hammer, it may cause damage to the bearing underneath.
Great video!! Simple and to the point. One question since you did not specify; when you were tapping out the bearings, how did you secure your wheels? Were they elevated on blocks or some sort of wheel stand? And what ceramic bearings did you select?
My 2017 ZX-10RR Service Manual states front axle torque is 95.9 foot lbs. Under-torquing the the front axle nut seems like a compromise to safety. At least the rear axle nut has a cottle pin to keep it from backing out. The problem with not torquing the rear to spec is, again, a compromise to safety in that the axle may shift back as the chain stretches if the torque is not tight enough.
Max, relooking your video, you said you used the 32mm socket as your initial hammer-time tool. Was the 32mm socket spot on with the bearing? I am thinking to just go buy a 32mm socket and have a bolt welded into it with a steel disc or bolt on top to hammer on. This way, I can hold it in place vs having a socket that may move when hit. Also, on the flip side, when you use an old bearing to hammer in the new one and it slips around, use some electrical tape around the diameter where they meet so they don't separate for the initial bite. Once it starts to seat properly, peel off the tape and tap the rest in. I say this because if the old bearing ever slipped for some reason at the time of tge strike of the hammer, it may cause damage to the bearing underneath.
Great video!! Simple and to the point. One question since you did not specify; when you were tapping out the bearings, how did you secure your wheels? Were they elevated on blocks or some sort of wheel stand? And what ceramic bearings did you select?
thanks man!
You spun the front with the brakes still on the old bearings but they weren’t on for the after test. The brake drag will make it spin much less free.
So you spent $400 on bearings, but couldn’t buy a $20 axle nut tool? 🤣
I have all the tools but wanted to show it to people who might not have one .
Great content bro
Thanks man hope it helped
What did you torque your wheels to?
My tq specs are real low so unless you are looking for every little hp out your bike on the drag strip I would stick to factory tq spec .
@@brickmanracing I feel factory torque spec is too tight, I have mine at 87ft lbs
65 with titanium chain adjuster bolts
My 2017 ZX-10RR Service Manual states front axle torque is 95.9 foot lbs. Under-torquing the the front axle nut seems like a compromise to safety. At least the rear axle nut has a cottle pin to keep it from backing out. The problem with not torquing the rear to spec is, again, a compromise to safety in that the axle may shift back as the chain stretches if the torque is not tight enough.
😄