Thanks for this video! I have a '91 looks exactly like this with the same symptoms. One thing you led me to is checking that oil is coming in from the above ports. When I had it opened up last week I don't recall seeing a flow of oil from there.
Hey! yes the oil flow is minimal until you really open up the revs... there is adjustment on the oil delivery arm etc.. also be sure the oil levers etc havn't been bumped/knocked off & not driving from the throttle levers.. that can happen easily too.. Hope that helps! 😃😃😃
Thanks for the video. I may have to do this on my 1999 Yamaha C60 TLRX. It's amazing the kind of service you get sometimes for probably $100 an hour...
I believe that you showed only part of the main jet. It is slightly larger and longer than the idle jet. It comes out, and there are smaller openings that can be cleaned.
hi, no the video clearly shows the main jet & then also the pilot jet that is fitted under the rubber grommet... The pilot jet is the longer jet with fine holes, it has a very fine centre hole. Main Jet has a very large hole (in comparison to the idle/pilot jet) to deliver far more fuel from around half throttle up to full revs. Hope this helps 😃
Killer vid! My Yamaha 40tlrc has some rough idle issues and has trouble going from idle to midrange rpm smoothly, do you think that could be carb related? Plugs are new and engine is in great shape
Hey thanks for that! Yes it def could be the carbs, but could still be electrical, possible coils.. At least you ruled out plugs.. Carbs do cause issues as the pilot (idle) jets are very fine & can block easily with old stale fuel that turns to sludge in the carby bowls especially if left for a fair while between runs.. Be sure to check all air jets too as you go (as shown in the video) as they can block too.. you may have 1 blocked jet, or even find a couple.. It's always a good feeling when you find the culprit! The 2nd & 3rd carb/cylinder will help cover the failing one, but as you said, it still doesn't run smooth like you know it should.. Hope you find it, & get a nice smooth rev range again! 😃😃😃
Great video. I have a 30hp yamaha 2stroke 2000 and it revs by itself when it is in neutral to real high rpms. Whenever i put it in forward/reverse the motor runs just fine. Do you have an idea of what the issue might be? Grettings from Sweden
Hi from Australia! Sounds like a couple of possibilities, could be as simple as the idle screw is turned up way too high so it idles too high without load, but once in gear, & prop has water load on it as it turns, & that the load drops revs lower as always happens a little when put in gear (tuned correctly)~ (hence the idle screw will always be tuned a little high so it doesn't stall when you put it in gear)... Someone may have turned idle screw up to stop it stalling when put in gear? Or if idle screw is as low as it can be, then it must be an internal issue on 1 or more carbs.. when 2 strokes starve of fuel, they run lean & can rev high due to running more volatile air fuel mixture, but its not good for the motor to run lean like that.. so if it's that, then check all jets etc as this video shows, it will most probably be a pilot jet blocked (fine jet) which controls fuel to idle rev range.. always check all of the carbs, as if one of the carb's jet is blocked, then the other carbs can often be the same due to stale fuel/water/fuel contaminants.. Hope that helps! 😃
@@patri0ten142 at about 55 seconds to 1:10 in the video, youll see the carby link rod that joins all carby's butterflies... on the 40hp the idle screw can be seen right in the middle of the rod (behind the rod in the video) at the middle carby.. its a plate & screw with spring under screw head to the screw can be adjusted to where the rod rests once returned to idle... grab the link rod & move it & youll see adjustable screw & plate that sets position of where it all returns to when you let the joining/link rod go. While its running, if you adjust that screw, it will lower the revs if you allow it to close the butterflies more.. have a good look at how it works first before starting the motor to adjust..
I’ve got an issue with my yammy 2 stroke where it runs well at idle, runs well at a decent clip but in a no-wake low speed put about it sounds like it’s running on 3 of 4 cylinders (yam 115 two stroke) think it could be a clogged jet? Going to dive into it!
Hey! Pin pointing the issue makes life easier! So at lower revs the 4 cylinders can mask a fault in a cylinder... I pull the plug leads off one at a time to try find the cylinder where no change happens when lead is removed.. if u can pin point that cylinder, even at slightly higher revs like you said, It can make it easier to go straight to that carby, or at least pay close attention to that one when cleaning them all.. you may also have a bad plug, they can give that same type fault at different revs.. or even coil... but the removing lead trick will help diagnose them too.. you can swap say the faulty cylinder 1 plug with cylinder 2, see if the fault moves to the 2nd cylinder when pulling the lead off again.. then if no change, swap the coil in the same way, see if the fault moves to cylinder 2.. That helps out find exactly which part is failing rather than just replace parts like all the plugs at once. (Or all coils)... you still may have the issue after spending $200 that way! Hope all this helps! Let me know when you find the culprit! (Carby or electrical!) Many thanks for watching!! 😃😃😃
@@mikemike7523 Thank you so much for the insight Mike Mike!! That sounds like a rock solid plan to help narrow down the culprit without throwing cash at an ol yammy for no reason ;) I'll keep you updated for sure!! thanks again!
Is there a gasket needed between where the 3 carbs bolt onto the engine. I need to check my carbs but I can see what looks like a sealant of some sort oozing out the edge. Does it need re-sealing / gasket or should it be clean and flush fitting without a gasket? Thanks
Hi Jon, as in the thumbnail photo of the video, yes there is a round rubber seal on each carby, there is one shown on that carby, also the new ones next to it.. They go hard after a few years, some guys short cut it by adding sealant instead of new seals, but that's messy & they really just need new seals to do the job right. Using a sealant makes it difficult to remove later, once carbys are glued in place.. Hope that helps! 😃😃😃
Thanks for the video - very informative. Where did you source the carby gasket kit from? I want to rip through mine and expect the gaskets are well due for replacement :)
Thank you! i bought an entire engine rebuild gasket kit off Ebay as it has every gasket you will need.. works out good value & spare gaskets for other things if needed later... Hope you get it humming nicely again soon! 😁😁😁
Thanks for this video! I have a '91 looks exactly like this with the same symptoms. One thing you led me to is checking that oil is coming in from the above ports. When I had it opened up last week I don't recall seeing a flow of oil from there.
Hey! yes the oil flow is minimal until you really open up the revs... there is adjustment on the oil delivery arm etc.. also be sure the oil levers etc havn't been bumped/knocked off & not driving from the throttle levers.. that can happen easily too.. Hope that helps! 😃😃😃
Thanks for the video. I may have to do this on my 1999 Yamaha C60 TLRX. It's amazing the kind of service you get sometimes for probably $100 an hour...
Thank you! Hope it goes well for you as you work on it!
Great video and a big help
thank you! 😃😃😃
Thank you. Great help.
Thank you! So glad it helped! 😃
I believe that you showed only part of the main jet. It is slightly larger and longer than the idle jet. It comes out, and there are smaller openings that can be cleaned.
hi, no the video clearly shows the main jet & then also the pilot jet that is fitted under the rubber grommet... The pilot jet is the longer jet with fine holes, it has a very fine centre hole. Main Jet has a very large hole (in comparison to the idle/pilot jet) to deliver far more fuel from around half throttle up to full revs. Hope this helps 😃
Killer vid! My Yamaha 40tlrc has some rough idle issues and has trouble going from idle to midrange rpm smoothly, do you think that could be carb related? Plugs are new and engine is in great shape
Hey thanks for that! Yes it def could be the carbs, but could still be electrical, possible coils.. At least you ruled out plugs.. Carbs do cause issues as the pilot (idle) jets are very fine & can block easily with old stale fuel that turns to sludge in the carby bowls especially if left for a fair while between runs.. Be sure to check all air jets too as you go (as shown in the video) as they can block too.. you may have 1 blocked jet, or even find a couple.. It's always a good feeling when you find the culprit! The 2nd & 3rd carb/cylinder will help cover the failing one, but as you said, it still doesn't run smooth like you know it should.. Hope you find it, & get a nice smooth rev range again! 😃😃😃
Great video. I have a 30hp yamaha 2stroke 2000 and it revs by itself when it is in neutral to real high rpms. Whenever i put it in forward/reverse the motor runs just fine. Do you have an idea of what the issue might be? Grettings from Sweden
Hi from Australia! Sounds like a couple of possibilities, could be as simple as the idle screw is turned up way too high so it idles too high without load, but once in gear, & prop has water load on it as it turns, & that the load drops revs lower as always happens a little when put in gear (tuned correctly)~ (hence the idle screw will always be tuned a little high so it doesn't stall when you put it in gear)... Someone may have turned idle screw up to stop it stalling when put in gear? Or if idle screw is as low as it can be, then it must be an internal issue on 1 or more carbs.. when 2 strokes starve of fuel, they run lean & can rev high due to running more volatile air fuel mixture, but its not good for the motor to run lean like that.. so if it's that, then check all jets etc as this video shows, it will most probably be a pilot jet blocked (fine jet) which controls fuel to idle rev range.. always check all of the carbs, as if one of the carb's jet is blocked, then the other carbs can often be the same due to stale fuel/water/fuel contaminants.. Hope that helps! 😃
@@mikemike7523 wich screw is the idle screw mate?
@@patri0ten142 at about 55 seconds to 1:10 in the video, youll see the carby link rod that joins all carby's butterflies... on the 40hp the idle screw can be seen right in the middle of the rod (behind the rod in the video) at the middle carby.. its a plate & screw with spring under screw head to the screw can be adjusted to where the rod rests once returned to idle... grab the link rod & move it & youll see adjustable screw & plate that sets position of where it all returns to when you let the joining/link rod go. While its running, if you adjust that screw, it will lower the revs if you allow it to close the butterflies more.. have a good look at how it works first before starting the motor to adjust..
@@mikemike7523 alrighty, thank you so much, will check it out!
@@mikemike7523 had them adjusted now and now it runs smoothly in neutral. Once again thank you for the help!
I’ve got an issue with my yammy 2 stroke where it runs well at idle, runs well at a decent clip but in a no-wake low speed put about it sounds like it’s running on 3 of 4 cylinders (yam 115 two stroke) think it could be a clogged jet? Going to dive into it!
Hey! Pin pointing the issue makes life easier! So at lower revs the 4 cylinders can mask a fault in a cylinder... I pull the plug leads off one at a time to try find the cylinder where no change happens when lead is removed.. if u can pin point that cylinder, even at slightly higher revs like you said, It can make it easier to go straight to that carby, or at least pay close attention to that one when cleaning them all.. you may also have a bad plug, they can give that same type fault at different revs.. or even coil... but the removing lead trick will help diagnose them too.. you can swap say the faulty cylinder 1 plug with cylinder 2, see if the fault moves to the 2nd cylinder when pulling the lead off again.. then if no change, swap the coil in the same way, see if the fault moves to cylinder 2.. That helps out find exactly which part is failing rather than just replace parts like all the plugs at once. (Or all coils)... you still may have the issue after spending $200 that way! Hope all this helps! Let me know when you find the culprit! (Carby or electrical!)
Many thanks for watching!! 😃😃😃
@@mikemike7523 Thank you so much for the insight Mike Mike!! That sounds like a rock solid plan to help narrow down the culprit without throwing cash at an ol yammy for no reason ;) I'll keep you updated for sure!! thanks again!
Is there a gasket needed between where the 3 carbs bolt onto the engine. I need to check my carbs but I can see what looks like a sealant of some sort oozing out the edge. Does it need re-sealing / gasket or should it be clean and flush fitting without a gasket?
Thanks
Hi Jon, as in the thumbnail photo of the video, yes there is a round rubber seal on each carby, there is one shown on that carby, also the new ones next to it.. They go hard after a few years, some guys short cut it by adding sealant instead of new seals, but that's messy & they really just need new seals to do the job right. Using a sealant makes it difficult to remove later, once carbys are glued in place.. Hope that helps! 😃😃😃
@@mikemike7523 Thankyou Mike 👍👍
🤜
Thank you! 😃😃😃
Okay
Thanks for the video - very informative. Where did you source the carby gasket kit from? I want to rip through mine and expect the gaskets are well due for replacement :)
Thank you! i bought an entire engine rebuild gasket kit off Ebay as it has every gasket you will need.. works out good value & spare gaskets for other things if needed later... Hope you get it humming nicely again soon! 😁😁😁
@@mikemike7523 Thank you so much