For methods 1 and 2, because the duct is an inch away from the back wall, mastic is applied to the back side from the top and bottom using fingers and for the hard to reach middle section with mastic on the end of a piece of drive. This becomes much harder when hanging duct that already has insulation on it. You need more room such as hanging the duct 3 to 4 inches away from the back wall. Near the drive ears, we usually fold the insulation inwards so it is tucked under itself until we make the connection, seal the duct and then the insulation can be pulled out and taped. Related Videos: -Quickly Make a Sheet Metal Plenum at the Job Site! Measure, Cut, Bend, Seal, Mount! ua-cam.com/video/WL023SERpDg/v-deo.html -Building a Sheet Metal PLENUM and END CAP with Hand Tools! ua-cam.com/video/hMoNZx494Qs/v-deo.html -How to Make a FILTER RACK in a Plenum or Duct so that the Filter Slides In Smoothly ua-cam.com/video/TxfgJCgKZTs/v-deo.html -HVAC Emergency Condensate Pan!- Bend and Make a Pan that does Not need to be Brazed or Leak Tested! ua-cam.com/video/viy8MYvYflQ/v-deo.html
I’m a DIYer but also an old carpenter. Did duct work with my pops many many years ago. This video was very helpful and brought back a bunch of memories. I remember we would spread the S-connectors just a bit and usually had to hammer them on. Probably bigger ductwork. Thank you for the video it’s very helpful
Hey Craig, I am glad that you started showing ductwork. Could you also make a series about air distribution? I see a lot of installers in Canada doesnt know it and install furnaces, ac's not matching duct sizes. Consequently plenums bang, furnaces overheat, motors fail, HXs crack. Thank you for your work ✊🙏👍
Thanks for the video. There are many ways to hang, connect, insulate, and seal duct systems. Along with proper sizing and design you will avoid most problems.
Craig, I spent nearly 10 years doing mechanical demolition, and only a couple times installing it. Some of the ductwork we had to remove from the inside as it was in a hallway and had conduits/pipes in the way. Usually it was a trunk that came out and sometimes just branches. I've seen good installs, and bad ones, and what you taught in this video is good information. I actually designed and made some tools for the trade, however, someone copied my idea, so I didn't make anything on it. It was a tool that was made to pry off the backer plate from school fin tube systems.
You might investigate what we in the sheet metal workers (founded in 1888) have been using to make holes in hangers, duct, and sheet metal in general for over a century. William Whitney's (founded 1907) hole punch. Various size dies for every fastener size. Proper tools.
Well, I just use prefabricated ducts + connectors with seals, connect them with blind rivets and hang them up with threaded rods + supporting assembly beams. The advantage is no mess with sealants and works well with concrete ceilings and other harder materials. I wonder what kind of billing do customers accept when so much artisanal work is involved?
Yes this video was meant to be on how to hang duct in residential applications. That is mainly what we do in commercial applications or spiral ducting, thanks!
As someone that does sheet metal install professionally for industrial this was a weird video to watch. For one, the mastic I've always used is brushed on. For another we never use drive for hangers, we use strap. We don't screw into the drive then into the slip, as that compresses the duct and doesn't grip as well (though we also wouldn't use long zips for it so that may be a remedy). This video is also missing tdc/tdf connections though I doubt that ever comes up for residential. Either way, although really basic, cool to see how the other side does it. I'm used to hanging duct work in either concrete with tapcons or securing the duct using steel joice and/or unistrut. Never seen sheet metal duct work secured by wood beams but it makes sense for houses and the like.
Don, it is certainly much different when installing in commercial applications compared to residential and each face a lot of hurdles and are unique. This was just a basics for residential duct hanging, thanks!
Love the tin vids. Great for us AC guys and service lol . I did duct work and gas for my first 2 years I think metal is looked down upon too much there are guys at my company that are magicians at it. I actually miss doing it. Just if anyone knows the reason we put cleat the way we do. I was always taught to put both cleats opened on the outside , meaning the top cleat has its top opened and the bottom of the duct has the cleat opened on the bottom . I see in this vid they are both at the top ?
My preferred method and I think the proper way is both s locks in or out. The issue is if installed as it is in the video the duct runs end up having an offset at the joint ( as can be seen if closely observed in the video) and in my opinion it looks like a poor installation. As far as the air flow and size of duct I would believe that it is insignificant and accounted for in the ACCA duct sizing tables. If installing as presented in the video the joints should be alternated, one up, one down,etc. Finally it should be noted that when installing rec duct runs particularly long ones, the snap locks or pittsburghs should alternate. When installed this way if there are inconsistencies in the duct fabrication they will self correct and allow a straight run.
The reason the S clete opening is on top is so the weight of the duct is sitting on the previous duct. With small ducts like this, it won’t make much of difference. Once you start hanging large pieces of duct different story, generally also why “standing S” is used in replacement to strengthen that connection.
A book about commercial/residential duct size tons calculation, cfms' , etc soon? I like your videos and I will be the first one on line to order. 👍👏👏👏
Great video! We are about to start sheet metal in our new build. Our trunks will be wrapped in two-layer reflective insulation - what are your thoughts on strapping it up with fabric strapping rather than puncturing the insulation with screws?
I mean. Isn't it literally just cutting the insulution to size, a little bit of silver tape on the duct, fit the insulation tightly to the duct work, tape the seems up good, then white mastic on the outside
@@donpatch9196 some people learn visually, some people learn by doing, some people learn by hearing. Some people just like to see other ways people do things.
Pretty good for a basic beginner video but you forgot to mention the prep work needed for the slip and drive to make the connections, for example spreading the slip and drive a little bit to make it slide easier also in some situations you can use a duct stretcher tool to help assist with putting on the drive connections, in other words I have seen so many different ways to do ductwork I was told by an old time tin knocker there is no right or wrong way to do ductwork as long as all the connections are air tight and sealed properly then it will work. Other than that great video!
In a situation like that most people would opt to seal it up and then slam it close to the wall, but if it gets overlooked, finding a piece of conduit that will fit a pookie brush also works. You could also silver tape it all I guess, but putting some kind of mastic on the tape after helps with longevity. Your best bet would be to form it all up on the ground (as shown), pookie it up real good, let the mastic dry (will be dry the next day unless using a really wet sealant), and then hang it
You can do as Avery and Don are mentioning. In this instance, you can get to the back side of the duct from the top and bottom since it is 1" away from the back wall, thanks!
Those zip screws rot in crawlspaces because they are not galvanized. I have seen hole lengths of duct fallen and lying on the ground in crawlspaces. Thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel good to know… thanks! Random question but I’m evidently new to the trade. Is there a solid budget friendly multimeter you would recommend?
Sheet metal ductwork very commonly doesn't have insulutation inside. I recently did a VA hospital and am currently working on a bio lab and it's all just exterior insulation. So it's not entirely necessary it seems.
@@NoBody-ro3xj At the VA it was a third party company. For the bio lab, it's been our own shop. I don't personally make the duct work though. I've had to do field work like miters or reducing/changing the size of duct, but nothing like actually operating a pittsburgh machine or anything like that.
@@donpatch9196 it might be a state thing but most places around here in n Utah we build our own duct insulate the inside, and install. The only people that don't do it also don't build their own duct and sub out the insulation.
Apply, check up on application, pester the company if you need to, get a referral from a friend. Show up to interview onetime, clean, respectful. Be prepared for interview. Make it easy for the person to hire you.
If that duct was lined I would have taped off clean edges for the calk. If it's being wrapped, slap some pookie on it and roll on.. we ain't painting the mona lisa..
Invest in a Whitney punch makes installing screws much easier. I’ve always used long hex screws to hang the duct to the joists. Why so many screws, I thought 2 was all that was needed.
Certainly a hole punch is easier if you are hanging a lot of duct! I have actually seen a lot of those 1.5" long zip screws rotted when hanging duct with them when they are screwed into the joists. Crawlspaces are really wet here by the ocean so we don't take any chances. Two screws on each to be safe, thanks!
For methods 1 and 2, because the duct is an inch away from the back wall, mastic is applied to the back side from the top and bottom using fingers and for the hard to reach middle section with mastic on the end of a piece of drive. This becomes much harder when hanging duct that already has insulation on it. You need more room such as hanging the duct 3 to 4 inches away from the back wall. Near the drive ears, we usually fold the insulation inwards so it is tucked under itself until we make the connection, seal the duct and then the insulation can be pulled out and taped.
Related Videos:
-Quickly Make a Sheet Metal Plenum at the Job Site! Measure, Cut, Bend, Seal, Mount! ua-cam.com/video/WL023SERpDg/v-deo.html
-Building a Sheet Metal PLENUM and END CAP with Hand Tools! ua-cam.com/video/hMoNZx494Qs/v-deo.html
-How to Make a FILTER RACK in a Plenum or Duct so that the Filter Slides In Smoothly ua-cam.com/video/TxfgJCgKZTs/v-deo.html
-HVAC Emergency Condensate Pan!- Bend and Make a Pan that does Not need to be Brazed or Leak Tested!
ua-cam.com/video/viy8MYvYflQ/v-deo.html
You are making a difference in the trade. Thank you for all you do for the industry!
Thank you so much Chip!
I’m a DIYer but also an old carpenter. Did duct work with my pops many many years ago. This video was very helpful and brought back a bunch of memories. I remember we would spread the S-connectors just a bit and usually had to hammer them on. Probably bigger ductwork. Thank you for the video it’s very helpful
This guy is such an excellent teacher and the production level of these videos are great!
Agreed. It's high quality learning!
Trade school didn't teach much about ductwork installation so this video is extremely helpful.
Union sheet metal trade school ......
Hey Craig, I am glad that you started showing ductwork. Could you also make a series about air distribution? I see a lot of installers in Canada doesnt know it and install furnaces, ac's not matching duct sizes. Consequently plenums bang, furnaces overheat, motors fail, HXs crack. Thank you for your work ✊🙏👍
Thank you for letting me know what you would like to see!
Most excellent. Your students are lucky to have you as there instructor.
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Thanks for the video. There are many ways to hang, connect, insulate, and seal duct systems. Along with proper sizing and design you will avoid most problems.
Absolutely, thanks!
Invaluable! Thank you for helping out this struggling apprentice
So you are a master sheet metal guy and a master tech. Super tech
Craig, I spent nearly 10 years doing mechanical demolition, and only a couple times installing it. Some of the ductwork we had to remove from the inside as it was in a hallway and had conduits/pipes in the way. Usually it was a trunk that came out and sometimes just branches. I've seen good installs, and bad ones, and what you taught in this video is good information. I actually designed and made some tools for the trade, however, someone copied my idea, so I didn't make anything on it. It was a tool that was made to pry off the backer plate from school fin tube systems.
Tool ideas and patenting are certainly rough processes. Thanks for sharing Bryant!
Glad your doing some duct videos! Thanks! Can you make a video for adding and attaching a rectangular return air In the bottom of those ducts?
Kodie, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
Very nice job, and video.
Thanks a lot!
Man thank you for this video. Thank you for your time and knowledge
I always learn a lot from watching your videos thanks for all you do student of HVACR.
Thanks Robert!
Wow didn’t realize that mastic comes in a tube. Looks better doing it that way then it is using a paint brush to brush on the duct butter
It is certainly easier, thanks!
Bucket is cheaper, tube is cleaner.... Both have their perks
I did that for 5 years. Used a mastic bucket.
Nice work
Lance thanks!
Hey Chris bought your book love it 😀 can you do a video on how to wire a azure motor
David, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
Insulation video next 👍
Thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
You might investigate what we in the sheet metal workers (founded in 1888) have been using to make holes in hangers, duct, and sheet metal in general for over a century. William Whitney's (founded 1907) hole punch. Various size dies for every fastener size.
Proper tools.
Bob, I have the Malco hole punch and I use that. I was just showing very basic methods for residential duct hanging with just basic tools, thanks!
Why use a.punch when a screw works just fine.
Great job
Thanks Mohammad!
Well done and explained!
Thank you very much
Glad to help Charles!
Excellent video.
Thank you.
Around 1:30 how did you cut those pieces of drive cleats? Using metal shears?
Thanks for posting this video.
Good video thanks 🙏
Thank you very much!
Good Intel ty
Thumbs Way Up!
Thanks a lot Martin!
A video on how to put square duct together standing up would be cool. There is still a lot of people that put it together on the ground.
Thanks for the video suggestion!
@Terrence Rucker if you know how to do it right it's always easier to do it standing. Especially on the knees.
Well, I just use prefabricated ducts + connectors with seals, connect them with blind rivets and hang them up with threaded rods + supporting assembly beams. The advantage is no mess with sealants and works well with concrete ceilings and other harder materials. I wonder what kind of billing do customers accept when so much artisanal work is involved?
Could you post a video or picture? Thanks
Yes this video was meant to be on how to hang duct in residential applications. That is mainly what we do in commercial applications or spiral ducting, thanks!
Great informative video sir
Dewalt of Milwaukee 🤔 team RED ALL THE WAY!! To each his own, great video Craig!!
Ha ha, love them both!
Great video, thanks!
Stagger your seams. Slip cleat u usually cut it 0.5" smaller than the duct to accommodate for the bottom lock seam.
You are the best 👍
You are an excellent explainer bro big ups and may God bless the works of your hands
Just knocked out my first week in HVAC. That way if masting looks way easier than using a paintbrush 😄
Absolutely!
How much does it price per hour for duct fitter in USA ?
As someone that does sheet metal install professionally for industrial this was a weird video to watch. For one, the mastic I've always used is brushed on. For another we never use drive for hangers, we use strap. We don't screw into the drive then into the slip, as that compresses the duct and doesn't grip as well (though we also wouldn't use long zips for it so that may be a remedy). This video is also missing tdc/tdf connections though I doubt that ever comes up for residential.
Either way, although really basic, cool to see how the other side does it. I'm used to hanging duct work in either concrete with tapcons or securing the duct using steel joice and/or unistrut. Never seen sheet metal duct work secured by wood beams but it makes sense for houses and the like.
Don, it is certainly much different when installing in commercial applications compared to residential and each face a lot of hurdles and are unique. This was just a basics for residential duct hanging, thanks!
Love the tin vids. Great for us AC guys and service lol . I did duct work and gas for my first 2 years I think metal is looked down upon too much there are guys at my company that are magicians at it. I actually miss doing it. Just if anyone knows the reason we put cleat the way we do. I was always taught to put both cleats opened on the outside , meaning the top cleat has its top opened and the bottom of the duct has the cleat opened on the bottom . I see in this vid they are both at the top ?
This way it keeps the ducts the same size. Whether both at the top or both at the bottom. everyone has their preference, just a basics video, thanks!
My preferred method and I think the proper way is both s locks in or out. The issue is if installed as it is in the video the duct runs end up having an offset at the joint ( as can be seen if closely observed in the video) and in my opinion it looks like a poor installation. As far as the air flow and size of duct I would believe that it is insignificant and accounted for in the ACCA duct sizing tables. If installing as presented in the video the joints should be alternated, one up, one down,etc. Finally it should be noted that when installing rec duct runs particularly long ones, the snap locks or pittsburghs should alternate. When installed this way if there are inconsistencies in the duct fabrication they will self correct and allow a straight run.
The reason the S clete opening is on top is so the weight of the duct is sitting on the previous duct. With small ducts like this, it won’t make much of difference. Once you start hanging large pieces of duct different story, generally also why “standing S” is used in replacement to strengthen that connection.
Thanks Craig, can you do a video on round? 🙏🏻 please and thank you 😇
A book about commercial/residential duct size tons calculation, cfms' , etc soon? I like your videos and I will be the first one on line to order. 👍👏👏👏
Jimmy, thanks for the suggestion!
Very good
Sealing the gaps n joints is key n never saw anyone do it.
I would recommend ya to get a Surge Milwaukee Impact Driver works best
Nice presentation. Thanks
Thanks Roy!
please have more duct videos whole house layout strategy thx
Yes I'm know this job and this ducting job 20 years service in the Singapore
Any info for the mastic used?
Excellent video, from where you buy your duct trunk?
Great video! We are about to start sheet metal in our new build. Our trunks will be wrapped in two-layer reflective insulation - what are your thoughts on strapping it up with fabric strapping rather than puncturing the insulation with screws?
Curious how you seal the back side with mastic.
Thanks, how about an insulation video? I know is basic stuff but there is a lot of new people getting in the trade right now.
I mean. Isn't it literally just cutting the insulution to size, a little bit of silver tape on the duct, fit the insulation tightly to the duct work, tape the seems up good, then white mastic on the outside
Felix, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
@@donpatch9196 does it matter?
@@NoBody-ro3xjJust seems bare bones basic is all. First hour of the first day on a job and you're near fully trained
@@donpatch9196 some people learn visually, some people learn by doing, some people learn by hearing. Some people just like to see other ways people do things.
Hi. Learning a lot from your videos. Is there an online distributor who will sell to the public.
Nice job. I am looking to buy the same duct but I can't find it on lowes or home depot. Could you please help?
Pretty good for a basic beginner video but you forgot to mention the prep work needed for the slip and drive to make the connections, for example spreading the slip and drive a little bit to make it slide easier also in some situations you can use a duct stretcher tool to help assist with putting on the drive connections, in other words I have seen so many different ways to do ductwork I was told by an old time tin knocker there is no right or wrong way to do ductwork as long as all the connections are air tight and sealed properly then it will work. Other than that great video!
But a real good demonstration thanks for doing this
Thanks a lot Don!
So I’m order to get mastic on the side closest to the wall, you sort of have to use the last method no?
you could try pookie on a stick, fish foil tape through, or cut a access hole similar to the process for cleaning ducts and seal from the inside.
Its a demo set. All situations are different. Figure out your situation and what will work best for that.
In a situation like that most people would opt to seal it up and then slam it close to the wall, but if it gets overlooked, finding a piece of conduit that will fit a pookie brush also works. You could also silver tape it all I guess, but putting some kind of mastic on the tape after helps with longevity. Your best bet would be to form it all up on the ground (as shown), pookie it up real good, let the mastic dry (will be dry the next day unless using a really wet sealant), and then hang it
You can do as Avery and Don are mentioning. In this instance, you can get to the back side of the duct from the top and bottom since it is 1" away from the back wall, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel thank you for the reply!
does it need to be insulated for pier and beam homes?
which mastic do you like to use?
Probably iron grip
Brother What is your ongoing Sallary ?
where do you find those hangers for the ductwork we cant seem to find them anywhere
Get a duct stretcher and a set of Malco duct clamps.
Good video. around here 95% of the duct is snap lock
Thanks Kanga!
The easiest ductwork install in history
How to run supplies from the main trunk
Excelent!!!!
You don’t use 3/4” zip screws in attics and crawls when going to wood to hold the duct work?
Those zip screws rot in crawlspaces because they are not galvanized. I have seen hole lengths of duct fallen and lying on the ground in crawlspaces. Thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel good to know… thanks! Random question but I’m evidently new to the trade. Is there a solid budget friendly multimeter you would recommend?
@@acservicetechchannelthey do sell zinc zip screws
Wht music is it on 2.20-2.40 pls?
Why you did not add insulation materials?
Why would you insulate or not insulate that duct? If u were going to insulate, do it on the ground or after it's up?
No need thermal insulation?
This is just a basics for the three methods for connection, thanks!
Never seen anyone do any of theee techniques in the commercial field.
Why aren't you using impact drivers?
6:30 why screws not rivets?
I just feel like.......Bruce Willis would not fit through there.
Neither would the guy from Airheads
Can I just fix the bottom of the duct
Took me hours to put a portion back. And it's this easy?
blud is using drive as a hanger strap
No insulation inside?
It's a demo. They will always make it with the least amount of struggle.
Sheet metal ductwork very commonly doesn't have insulutation inside. I recently did a VA hospital and am currently working on a bio lab and it's all just exterior insulation. So it's not entirely necessary it seems.
@@donpatch9196 do yall make your own duct work?
@@NoBody-ro3xj At the VA it was a third party company. For the bio lab, it's been our own shop. I don't personally make the duct work though. I've had to do field work like miters or reducing/changing the size of duct, but nothing like actually operating a pittsburgh machine or anything like that.
@@donpatch9196 it might be a state thing but most places around here in n Utah we build our own duct insulate the inside, and install. The only people that don't do it also don't build their own duct and sub out the insulation.
you dont mention sealing the hard to reach areas. i presume that just isnt done.
👍
what about duct mate?
That works too!
How to get a job .. please explain
Apply, check up on application, pester the company if you need to, get a referral from a friend. Show up to interview onetime, clean, respectful. Be prepared for interview. Make it easy for the person to hire you.
High demand. You just ask for the job
My opinion is too close to the wall, and how are you going to duck butter the side closest to the wall
Why not just nail through the top of the duct into the joist.
If that duct was lined I would have taped off clean edges for the calk. If it's being wrapped, slap some pookie on it and roll on.. we ain't painting the mona lisa..
He’s using drives for hangers
or just use hangers
Why don’t you use duct flange
S lock
Sir I am duct fitter you have vacancy tell me
Invest in a Whitney punch makes installing screws much easier. I’ve always used long hex screws to hang the duct to the joists. Why so many screws, I thought 2 was all that was needed.
Certainly a hole punch is easier if you are hanging a lot of duct! I have actually seen a lot of those 1.5" long zip screws rotted when hanging duct with them when they are screwed into the joists. Crawlspaces are really wet here by the ocean so we don't take any chances. Two screws on each to be safe, thanks!
Slip and slide 😂🙄😂
Yup!
Where are the takeoffs??.....
This video was just for basics of 3 methods to connect rectangular duct, thanks Chet!
Iuiii ok
Calm down there buddy
I would have used proper hanging straps.
Duct looks nice. Your process is ridiculous. Must be union. No way the standard guys can or allowed to do that.
Test