I have the same hotwheel, but it actually has the wonder bread logo on it. it looks weathered and beat up which would be absolutely perfect for Gaslands. Thank you for sharing this technique.
This was a trick I learnd back in my drag racing days in the 70s. But we used clear lacquer; works just as well. I didn't know anyone else knew...Great video!
Wow, that takes me back! I remember a similar technique I learned around 1990. Instead of printing the images, it used the glossy ad prints from the Sunday paper. Two or three thick coats of gloss, cut out, then a still wet coat of gloss on the surface you wanted to apply it on. Had a hard hat (summer job) covered in cereal advertisements. Lucky, Captain Crunch, and Snap Crackle and Pop.
@@baremetalHW Question, if I may: I understand that the visible edges of water slide decal film is the bane of many modelers' existence. is this method any better in that respect? Do you still see the clear coat after application?
Tried this, didn’t ‘adhere’ for me. I did not spray clear on the existing car, as I was going to just put the decal on factory paint. I guess that’s my problem? I Need new paint on the decal AND the diecast..?
RaceGrooves someone used this technique for LEGO: they printed their design,then put one sided tape on top, and two sided on the bottom, then when he cut it out it was like any old sticker I’m also a sub
Hi, I love this easy technique. You asked for suggestions, mine is to use rice paper. It will be much easier to remove, nearly dissolve in water. Please keep up the great work!
Rice paper goes through a printer? I would have thought the ink would dissolve the paper, or the paper might crack or jam in the printer. Would love to see this method in action.
This is a really good idea! Coincidentally, I've been doing something similar to this recently. I just printed decals onto a sheet of paper, and then I glued it to the car. This is a much better idea and it doesn't seem to be too hard to do, so I'll be trying this out once I get my own can of clear coat instead of my brother's. Great job as usual!
I'm never going to put the techniques in your tutorial videos to use since I don't modify die cast cars (or die cast anything), but I'd be lying if I said they weren't fun to watch.
Even say one made from polystyrene plastic? Because I'm pretty sure the plastic will melt or at least deform from the hair dryer phase. That said it is a cool technique for metal objects.
A hairdryer will not distort styrene plastic models. If you're just not sure, test on a body where it won't make any difference. A heat gun is another subject.
I needed some markings for a bunch of 1/72nd _plastic_ tanks. 1st: Where I live, any "Clear Coat" isn't readily available (and hell, I'm too cheap to buy online...) and 2nd: Using a hot-air gun on plastic could be, in my hands, a disaster waiting to happen! So, using your basic idea, I printed the design on regular printer paper, cut it out, then brushed it over with some model enamel clear matt varnish and placed the decal onto the paint model. I left it to dry for an hour or so. Then, wetting the decal with warm water, used my finger-tip and nail to *_slowly and carefully_* remove the paper. Bingo! It worked! :) So, if it wasn't for this video, I'd have plain, unmarked tanks. Thanks! :D
Thank-you so much for this! I've been trying to find a low-cost method of applying decals and artwork to my scale models. Going to try this technique and see how it works for me.
I think this is a great technique for something that looks aged and/or abanded. That decal looked blurry once you wiped all the paper fibers away. It didn't look clean like the truck was new or near to new. I like the grafetti detail. Thanks for the technique.
This is awesome dude thanks so much! if you can improve anything on that I would say To just adjust color saturation before printing to compensate for the faded result of original print settings.
Thank you for a wonderful and inexpensive way of applying graphics on a vehicle. I want to do customs so all this is new for me. I will keep this method in mind and hope to make something cool! Thank you again for this great tip!
Awesome cool! Basically this is kind of a modified napkin-technique, which works perfectly for this small scale. This provides almost limitless possibilities at low cost in a simple way. With other words: genious.
I'm miserable at painting, so I sent a Matchbox car off to be sanded, painted, and clearcoated. I'm gonna add a few small waterslide decals, would you recommend clearcoat over that, or should the decals be okay? I don't have an airbrush or anything so I dunno how I'd apply it.
I think Hot Wheels released a bus casting as a police prison transporting bus, if I also remember correctly there is a pure white version and a split version having black upper and lower with a white middle.
Omg nice! The video I was looking for, ain't no body got time for actual decal paper cause I'm new to decal waterside. Lol I got to use what I got at home, can I use photo gloss paper?
Holy hell that is BRILLIANT! O______O I've always wanted to get into this custom decal thing but could never get past the price of admission. Those custom decal kits are too expensive to me. This is an incredibly smart way to do it! Wow! Thank you!
Another great vid from BMHW! The van turned out great! The ONLY thing I can add to the overall effect is that it could use a flat tire or two.;) I've toyed with this technique in the past and had great results with tracing paper and rice paper aswell. On the downside, you need to be a bit more careful when handling the image with these but on the plus side,they're thin enough that you don't have to remove the paper. Simply lay a moderately heavy clear coat over them and the papers absorb it. Let them cure,lay another normal clear coat over it and you can cut/polish it as you would a final coat. Again,GREAT JOB MAN!
I'm curious to see if I use photo paper in stead of plain paper if the colors retain a little more gloss or if the gloss from the paper becomes too bulky. My technique for panel van signs and bread trucks is to print the graphic directly to plain paper, use a really thin clear packing tape to seal it (and add a glossy look), and then cut it to fit. I adhere it by using a two sided tape dispenser on the back (the ones that look like the white-out dispensers). This also works great for repro or custom decals for old Star Wars ships. Great videos, keep them coming!
So is the idea to begin the heat-and-press technique while the clear coat is still wet on both surfaces? Or should the clear coat be completely dry on both surfaces first?
I really enjoyed this video. Well done. I have attempted to create grafiti decals from pics taken from local rail box cars. I used my old Canon and a CorelDRAW X8 ?Photo Paint program. It takes a bit of work and plenty of patience , but it was worth the time.
I just stumbled across your video, I really like how you demonstrate and walk through the steps, do you have a video to show how you make the truck look old and grimy?
It is really a fun and easily applicable method. I find it more suitable for die-cast metal models rather than plastic ones because the clear coat may affect the plastic.
Nice technique. I have done something similar at work to make stickers for machine control panels. (there are some things our label printer won't do) I print the desired graphic normally (not reversed) on a laser printer then trim it and stick a piece of packing tape on the printed side. Next I stick the tape in the sink and under running water I rub away the paper. The glue is water proof as is the toner. Next I dry it with compressed air, trim the tape, leaving a border around the graphic, and apply to the control panel. It's probably not applicable to models unless it was something where the packing tape could go all the way to the edge or be hidden by some other feature. (like a picture frame)
How long do you wait, after initially spraying the clear coat, before applying the paper to the surface and heating it? Would an iron be as/more effective for the heating process?
Have you tried applying these to actual decal paper (IE: leftover scrap) in order to have the white underlayer to use on darker color backgrounds? Would you have to modify the technique? (Aside from the obvious no dipping it in water until you're ready to apply.)
My local Lowe's says that Sherwin Williams has taken over Valspar and is replacing Valspar products with their own. What other products can be used? Or what chemicals are in the Valspar product that draw out the printer ink so these can be looked for in other products?
baremetalHW Heck Yeah! Awsome technique. Thanks for sharing. I would love to see yo make the 1955 Cadillac hearse in the "Warriors" movie. That would be sick.
yeah I tried the iron on laser jet prints on bare wood with mixed results. I think with the clear base, and blow dryer, I'll get better results! Great job!
Thank you for this video! I have one questions though. I have tried over and over again with different amounts of clear coat, pressing it on for 10 mins at a time, letting it soak for extended periods of time, etc. And it still comes out faded, why is that and what can i do to improve the finish?!?! I understand this is an old vid but still hoping you respond
hey liked your end product so much!! I thought I'd mention something that you might already apply to your 'real examples' (you noted this is an example car and not a true resto so I don't know if my suggestion here is all that needed for your usual pieces) but the grooves on top of the van would be darker than the higher ridges due to crud collection, where in this model they're clean. Makes sense since this isn't a true replica, but for peeps who are keeping an eye out for every little bit of tips and tricks, moss build up is a big one on neglected rigs like this death machine. Ok well there's my stupid .02 have a good one all!!!
Great video. Just getting into Gaslands and this look like something that will really make customizing the cars easy. Could you explain what your doing with the makeup? How does that stay on the vehicle? Clear coat recommendations? Thank you!!
Multiple companies make "weathering" powders and assorted colors for dirt, mud, sand etc. Tamiya makes some really nice ones, but there are many more companies, many for war gaming mini figures as well as larger models or figurines.
@@npc6817 You're saying that it is a camo truck that the military uses to patrol the streets of Kabul? Ah cheaper than a Hummer and fits right in to the local decor. Brilliant!
Super cool! I wonder if this would work on a plastic model? I don't think the hair dryer would be hot enough to affect it. Ever try it? Thanks for the great video!
Awesome... Do we need to wet the decal before sticking it onto the car body ( after the gloss coat has been left to dry ....)..I mean will the paper just stick on before Using the heat ?
GREAT way to make decals. But can you tell me if it has to be an inkjet printer, what about laser jet? 2. Will any kind of clear coat do the job? 3. Acrylic clear coat will do it? Thanks!
To highlight the slats, when you were setting up the block, throw a few drops of India Ink into the glue and then layer it up. Beautiful ultra thin black glue lines become beautifully apparent when it's done.
I was wondering if I can color the paper with the ink jet then type the words over it . For example I have a group of black steam locomotives that I would like to decal with a short line for which I cannot get decals unless I have them specially made in an amount that far exceeds my needs, Besides I need white lettering which as of yet can't be duplicated by other than professional methods. I was thinking of using your system to duplicate the lettering. Will it work as you have shown.
i dont think you need to bother coloring the paper, all your doing is melting the printer ink to the model, as long as you can see the printed words well enough to place it properly on your model, the lettering should be whiter than the paper so it should be possible, you could also try using rice paper to print on as its much thinner so should make the process easier to do
What kind of paint do you use to paint the van white? I've tried using rustoleum, but the paint stayed soft, so,when I tried to apply stripes to the Mustang I way painting, it was covered in finger prints and witness marks from where I'd applied my fine line tape
I airbrushed acrylic and then clear coated with Testers clear coat. If you are going to use rustoleum you will need to let it set for a good 2 weeks before you do anything to it. Rustoleum will give a more durable surface in the long run but you have to wait out the cure time. If you read the back of the can, most spray paints will tell you that they are not "dry" for at least 2 weeks.
1 is there a way to yay it on a plastic piece without distorting the part with a heat source? for example by usingsome other bounding agent, clear rubber cement or wet paint? 2 what would happen if you use laserjet printer and glosy paper, things of less fibrous surface that wouldn't soak the clear paint?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I have the same hotwheel, but it actually has the wonder bread logo on it. it looks weathered and beat up which would be absolutely perfect for Gaslands. Thank you for sharing this technique.
I have recently retired and was wondering what I would do to wile away the empty days. Eureka!
This was a trick I learnd back in my drag racing days in the 70s. But we used clear lacquer; works just as well. I didn't know anyone else knew...Great video!
Wow, that takes me back! I remember a similar technique I learned around 1990. Instead of printing the images, it used the glossy ad prints from the Sunday paper. Two or three thick coats of gloss, cut out, then a still wet coat of gloss on the surface you wanted to apply it on. Had a hard hat (summer job) covered in cereal advertisements. Lucky, Captain Crunch, and Snap Crackle and Pop.
that's awesome
@@baremetalHW hey man , the clear coat must be makers?
@@baremetalHW Question, if I may: I understand that the visible edges of water slide decal film is the bane of many modelers' existence. is this method any better in that respect? Do you still see the clear coat after application?
No idea how I got here, but so glad I stayed to see the finished truck! Very cool...
Very interesting technique!
RaceGrooves I love seeing my favorite UA-camrs watching my other favorite UA-camrs
Mi your fan, i enjoyo your videos, please give a look to my Channel and tell me what you think, regards
RaceGrooves can you do this
Tried this, didn’t ‘adhere’ for me. I did not spray clear on the existing car, as I was going to just put the decal on factory paint. I guess that’s my problem? I Need new paint on the decal AND the diecast..?
RaceGrooves someone used this technique for LEGO: they printed their design,then put one sided tape on top, and two sided on the bottom, then when he cut it out it was like any old sticker
I’m also a sub
Hi, I love this easy technique. You asked for suggestions, mine is to use rice paper. It will be much easier to remove, nearly dissolve in water.
Please keep up the great work!
Rice paper goes through a printer? I would have thought the ink would dissolve the paper, or the paper might crack or jam in the printer. Would love to see this method in action.
This is a really good idea! Coincidentally, I've been doing something similar to this recently. I just printed decals onto a sheet of paper, and then I glued it to the car. This is a much better idea and it doesn't seem to be too hard to do, so I'll be trying this out once I get my own can of clear coat instead of my brother's. Great job as usual!
I'm never going to put the techniques in your tutorial videos to use since I don't modify die cast cars (or die cast anything), but I'd be lying if I said they weren't fun to watch.
No one said they had to be diecast. It will work on any flat, slick surface.
Even say one made from polystyrene plastic? Because I'm pretty sure the plastic will melt or at least deform from the hair dryer phase.
That said it is a cool technique for metal objects.
A hairdryer will not distort styrene plastic models. If you're just not sure, test on a body where it won't make any difference. A heat gun is another subject.
Kojak0 You know they make paint for engine blocks that will withstand 500+ degrees I don’t think any hair dryer can actually get that hot.
@Martin Luther I'm never going to give you a "👍", but I love how whiny you're comment is.
I needed some markings for a bunch of 1/72nd _plastic_ tanks. 1st: Where I live, any "Clear Coat" isn't readily available (and hell, I'm too cheap to buy online...) and 2nd: Using a hot-air gun on plastic could be, in my hands, a disaster waiting to happen!
So, using your basic idea, I printed the design on regular printer paper, cut it out, then brushed it over with some model enamel clear matt varnish and placed the decal onto the paint model.
I left it to dry for an hour or so. Then, wetting the decal with warm water, used my finger-tip and nail to *_slowly and carefully_* remove the paper. Bingo! It worked! :)
So, if it wasn't for this video, I'd have plain, unmarked tanks. Thanks! :D
That's awesome! As a 1:25 model builder, your techniques serve for a great deal of inspiration. I'd like to thank you and: Keep it up!
1:87 is something remarkable to work with!
Thank-you so much for this! I've been trying to find a low-cost method of applying decals and artwork to my scale models. Going to try this technique and see how it works for me.
I think this is a great technique for something that looks aged and/or abanded. That decal looked blurry once you wiped all the paper fibers away. It didn't look clean like the truck was new or near to new. I like the grafetti detail. Thanks for the technique.
This is awesome dude thanks so much! if you can improve anything on that I would say To just adjust color saturation before printing to compensate for the faded result of original print settings.
Thank you for a wonderful and inexpensive way of applying graphics on a vehicle. I want to do customs so all this is new for me. I will keep this method in mind and hope to make something cool! Thank you again for this great tip!
Great technique. I wish you would do a video a week! By far one of the best and informative channels on UA-cam.
I'm often hesitant to try out these techniques, but this has me intrigued that you could just print out almost whatever. Nice video man.
That is ingenious! I've always had problems with waterside decals, this is a great alternative!
I have never seen this technique. I always used the decal paper. I am definitely going to try this! Thanks for posting this.
Awesome cool! Basically this is kind of a modified napkin-technique, which works perfectly for this small scale. This provides almost limitless possibilities at low cost in a simple way. With other words: genious.
The end result was really cool, I was not expecting that and it looked great.
I'm miserable at painting, so I sent a Matchbox car off to be sanded, painted, and clearcoated. I'm gonna add a few small waterslide decals, would you recommend clearcoat over that, or should the decals be okay? I don't have an airbrush or anything so I dunno how I'd apply it.
Amazing I would have never thought of that. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome technique! Can this work on other surfaces that aren't die-cast metal?
You should paint a school bus gray and make it a prison bus. Would look cool
you've inspired me...as it happens I have a school bus. I suspect bars on windows are in order.
I think Hot Wheels released a bus casting as a police prison transporting bus, if I also remember correctly there is a pure white version and a split version having black upper and lower with a white middle.
Omg nice! The video I was looking for, ain't no body got time for actual decal paper cause I'm new to decal waterside. Lol I got to use what I got at home, can I use photo gloss paper?
you should make a sweet tooth from twisted metal version. That truck would be greät for that theme.🤓
OH MY GOD, I love this idea!! :D
I was thinking that.
That's cool asf
Just wrote this before reading it looool
I love how this dude listens to his subscribers! He just uploaded that video today!
Very cool technique... Truck looks like it belongs in the RoboCop verse.
I thought that was a pretty crappy video until I saw the end result! Awesome!
WOW, great way to apply decals. Great work ides.
Excellent technique, and very well explained and demonstrated.
Have you tried covering the decal with a clear gloss coat, giving it a light sanding and repeating? That might give a smoother end result
Loved your presentation!! Very nicely produced!! Too many others on here don't know how to produce a slick video!!
Holy hell that is BRILLIANT! O______O I've always wanted to get into this custom decal thing but could never get past the price of admission. Those custom decal kits are too expensive to me. This is an incredibly smart way to do it! Wow! Thank you!
That trick blows me away!!!!!!! Great vid!
Another great vid from BMHW!
The van turned out great!
The ONLY thing I can add to the overall effect is that it could use a flat tire or two.;)
I've toyed with this technique in the past and had great results with tracing paper and rice paper aswell. On the downside, you need to be a bit more careful when handling the image with these but on the plus side,they're thin enough that you don't have to remove the paper. Simply lay a moderately heavy clear coat over them and the papers absorb it. Let them cure,lay another normal clear coat over it and you can cut/polish it as you would a final coat.
Again,GREAT JOB MAN!
Very cool technique. Good casting choice for this as well. Really like the end results👍🏽
I'm curious to see if I use photo paper in stead of plain paper if the colors retain a little more gloss or if the gloss from the paper becomes too bulky.
My technique for panel van signs and bread trucks is to print the graphic directly to plain paper, use a really thin clear packing tape to seal it (and add a glossy look), and then cut it to fit. I adhere it by using a two sided tape dispenser on the back (the ones that look like the white-out dispensers). This also works great for repro or custom decals for old Star Wars ships.
Great videos, keep them coming!
William Jackson let me know if the photo paper works... Thx!!
Thanks for sharing this technique! This will definitely come in handy for some customs I plan on doing.
I found this video to be worth the time to watch and learn.
this is awesome! how hot does it need to be? will it negatively affect a plastic model? Thanks for the great technique!
Very nice! I'd never seen that done. Thanks!
thats awesome.
Decal papers expensive here, so this is a much more affordable option
This is amazing advice, sir, thanks for posting it.
So is the idea to begin the heat-and-press technique while the clear coat is still wet on both surfaces? Or should the clear coat be completely dry on both surfaces first?
Very interesting video. I did not know this was possible. Thank you.
Thank you for your very informative tutorial. I am experimenting with decals for a telephone box and this will really help me :)
Wow ! That is so clever and artistic !
Thanks!
I really enjoyed this video. Well done. I have attempted to create grafiti decals from pics taken from local rail box cars. I used my old Canon and a CorelDRAW X8 ?Photo Paint program. It takes a bit of work and plenty of patience , but it was worth the time.
Very cool!
I just stumbled across your video, I really like how you demonstrate and walk through the steps, do you have a video to show how you make the truck look old and grimy?
The rust looks amazing!
Very cool. Thank you for sharing.I will try it on some model buildings.
I love it!!! Thank you so much! I'm going to make one for my mom's business now!
It is really a fun and easily applicable method. I find it more suitable for die-cast metal models rather than plastic ones because the clear coat may affect the plastic.
i have tears in my eyes, pretty neat.
Nice technique.
I have done something similar at work to make stickers for machine control panels. (there are some things our label printer won't do) I print the desired graphic normally (not reversed) on a laser printer then trim it and stick a piece of packing tape on the printed side. Next I stick the tape in the sink and under running water I rub away the paper. The glue is water proof as is the toner. Next I dry it with compressed air, trim the tape, leaving a border around the graphic, and apply to the control panel.
It's probably not applicable to models unless it was something where the packing tape could go all the way to the edge or be hidden by some other feature. (like a picture frame)
cool instruction on applying these decals. really opens up the possibility. But the paintwork after; was it suppose to look like a care fire?
what about clear coating the paper before printing would you have more of a smooth finish to your print
Do you have to use the gloss spray? Couldn't you use the matt? Or does gloss have extra bonding agents in it.
How long do you wait, after initially spraying the clear coat, before applying the paper to the surface and heating it? Would an iron be as/more effective for the heating process?
Now this is just fascinating. What would you recommend for plastic miniatures with curved surfaces?
You know what?
I fucking love your videos c:
*Hecc
Have you tried applying these to actual decal paper (IE: leftover scrap) in order to have the white underlayer to use on darker color backgrounds? Would you have to modify the technique? (Aside from the obvious no dipping it in water until you're ready to apply.)
My local Lowe's says that Sherwin Williams has taken over Valspar and is replacing Valspar products with their own. What other products can be used? Or what chemicals are in the Valspar product that draw out the printer ink so these can be looked for in other products?
That was a great project, really liked the used look
Fantastica personalizzazione, ottimo lavoro! Bravissimo!
This is a very cool tip! Thanks for sharing.
baremetalHW Heck Yeah! Awsome technique. Thanks for sharing. I would love to see yo make the 1955 Cadillac hearse in the "Warriors" movie. That would be sick.
waaarriooorrss come out and pla aa aaayyy
You can get a Ghostbusters Ecto-1 and modify it. It's a 1959 Caddy hearse.
Awsome technique, thanx :). Would this work on a space marine model from 40k? The shoulder plate?
Is it possible to to give it a smoother finish by sanding decal a tiny bit?
Like, wet sanding it with high-grit sandpaper?
I love watching this guys videos. Keep it up!
Do you have to have the clear coat
yeah I tried the iron on laser jet prints on bare wood with mixed results. I think with the clear base, and blow dryer, I'll get better results!
Great job!
Thank you for this video! I have one questions though. I have tried over and over again with different amounts of clear coat, pressing it on for 10 mins at a time, letting it soak for extended periods of time, etc. And it still comes out faded, why is that and what can i do to improve the finish?!?!
I understand this is an old vid but still hoping you respond
hey liked your end product so much!! I thought I'd mention something that you might already apply to your 'real examples' (you noted this is an example car and not a true resto so I don't know if my suggestion here is all that needed for your usual pieces) but the grooves on top of the van would be darker than the higher ridges due to crud collection, where in this model they're clean. Makes sense since this isn't a true replica, but for peeps who are keeping an eye out for every little bit of tips and tricks, moss build up is a big one on neglected rigs like this death machine. Ok well there's my stupid .02 have a good one all!!!
How long do you let them dry after heating before putting in water? Mine peeled off with the paper.
Great video, very helpful, informative. Great job
Would a clothes iron set on low work better, you think?
This was very awesome to watch
thats a very neat technique... never knew this worked, thanks for showing this :)
Fantastich technique. But does it also work on plastic models? How hot does on have to make the surface to make the varnish coats melt/meld?
Great video. Just getting into Gaslands and this look like something that will really make customizing the cars easy. Could you explain what your doing with the makeup? How does that stay on the vehicle? Clear coat recommendations? Thank you!!
Multiple companies make "weathering" powders and assorted colors for dirt, mud, sand etc. Tamiya makes some really nice ones, but there are many more companies, many for war gaming mini figures as well as larger models or figurines.
Mike James thanks Mike
I would love to see you make a custom Sweet Tooth from Twisted Metal out of one of these vans.
I'm already planning on that and creating Dark Tooth as well. 🤪
Do you make custom decals,even enlarging them,for others?
*Is this a Wonderbread truck that survived a forest fire?*
It's rust
No, this is the typical Wonderbread truck that you would find in Afghanistan.
It was in a toaster
@@JB-yb4wn when you start on military models but then switch to hotweels
@@npc6817
You're saying that it is a camo truck that the military uses to patrol the streets of Kabul? Ah cheaper than a Hummer and fits right in to the local decor. Brilliant!
Super cool! I wonder if this would work on a plastic model? I don't think the hair dryer would be hot enough to affect it.
Ever try it?
Thanks for the great video!
Would this work on plastic? I want to make a fighter jet from my local airbase and need custom lettering and insignias.
It should, because you're applying the decal to a layer of clear coat, not to the base material of the model
What about the heat from the hair dryer?
Won't it deform the plastic model?
Awesome... Do we need to wet the decal before sticking it onto the car body ( after the gloss coat has been left to dry ....)..I mean will the paper just stick on before Using the heat ?
Ramesh Bhaskaran no... the paper will stick to the gloss clear.. sort of like contact cement.
Nice technique. Will have to try this.
GREAT way to make decals. But can you tell me if it has to be an inkjet printer, what about laser jet? 2. Will any kind of clear coat do the job? 3. Acrylic clear coat will do it? Thanks!
Hey I’m going to try that on my model rail locos.....just one question when I spray inkjet prints with a varnish it degrades the ink? ....regards Fred
Would this work well for especially small decals? Like about the size of the window on the van you used to demonstrate
Yes... it should work fine.
To highlight the slats, when you were setting up the block, throw a few drops of India Ink into the glue and then layer it up. Beautiful ultra thin black glue lines become beautifully apparent when it's done.
Instead of clear-coat, have you tried any spray-adhesive, or hair-spray?
Did you use inkjet printer or laser? I would think since laser uses heat to create the image or would work better for this? Thoughts?
I was wondering if I can color the paper with the ink jet then type the words over it . For example I have a group of black steam locomotives that I would like to decal with a short line for which I cannot get decals unless I have them specially made in an amount that far exceeds my needs, Besides I need white lettering which as of yet can't be duplicated by other than professional methods. I was thinking of using your system to duplicate the lettering. Will it work as you have shown.
i dont think you need to bother coloring the paper, all your doing is melting the printer ink to the model, as long as you can see the printed words well enough to place it properly on your model, the lettering should be whiter than the paper so it should be possible, you could also try using rice paper to print on as its much thinner so should make the process easier to do
That is actually pretty cool!!! I'm going to have to try this!!!
What kind of paint do you use to paint the van white? I've tried using rustoleum, but the paint stayed soft, so,when I tried to apply stripes to the Mustang I way painting, it was covered in finger prints and witness marks from where I'd applied my fine line tape
I airbrushed acrylic and then clear coated with Testers clear coat. If you are going to use rustoleum you will need to let it set for a good 2 weeks before you do anything to it. Rustoleum will give a more durable surface in the long run but you have to wait out the cure time. If you read the back of the can, most spray paints will tell you that they are not "dry" for at least 2 weeks.
Can this method be used to make them stick to other hard surfaces and cups??
1 is there a way to yay it on a plastic piece without distorting the part with a heat source?
for example by usingsome other bounding agent, clear rubber cement or wet paint?
2 what would happen if you use laserjet printer and glosy paper, things of less fibrous surface that wouldn't soak the clear paint?