I really appreciate you specifying what exact brand of varnish you use. Many creators simply say "varnish the model satin", when in reality a "satin" finish differs greatly from brand to brand depending on the varnish. For example, the Vallejo Premium Satin varnish is bascially Matt while the AK Satin varnish is very much glossy. Really appreciate you going the extra mile since people might be after the exact look of the model in the video. I paint my Hands similar to you though I add more yellow so the armor looks more distressed. This does look really nice as well though. More of a "high tech" feel! I'll give that a try as well. One minor quibble if you permit. I think Iron Hand guns look best in white. The armor being mostly dark makes a white gun stand out and makes the model pop. Just a minor thing though and an A+ tutorial overall.
Amazing stuff. You guys have really opened my eyes when it comes to painting 'black'; first the heresy era dark angels, now this... Definitely need to try this on something.
Excellent work, I don't say that lightly because I've seen a few how-to-paint Iron Hands videos and yours seems to be the best yet, the others look slap-dash. I also like how you get right into the painting of the figure in a pleasant, straight forward manner, avoiding needless showmanship and snarky comments. This makes your vids more approachable, the info more applicable so keep up the fine work! You have a new subscriber now!!
This is absolutely fantastic. You got all those interesting hues of purple and green into the metal of the armour, while still keeping the process as simple as it can get. Truly great work ! I'm really curious to see what you'll end up with if you do a Sons of Horus one day in a similar "metalic" scheme (Like the one we can see in the HH books 1 and 4 by Forge World).
I have been amassing a 30k iron hands army for two years. Lots of oop stuff. I have been too intimidated to put it together because I couldnt decide on a paint recipe. Thank you for this!
Registers as being black? It looks darker than it started but I wouldn't say it's even remotely black. It still looks cool as hell and not a derpy hazard stripe in sight.
Love this, you did such a great job. I'm just out hunting for nice Iron Hands scheme and remembered this one from years ago! Would you do anything different now? Maybe use Streaking Grime for the dirt pass?
Hey! Thanks, it's a great scheme, just tweaked ever so slightly from the original Forgeworld one. With regards to what to use for dirt I think that's probably personal preference. If you like streaking grime then slap it on!
@@cultofpaint lovely, can't wait, i'm looking at going back to my world eaters alongside my imperial fists soon too and your fists tutorial is what I have been using to do my guys
Excellent scheme as always Henry! How do you feel about the white bolter casings that I see a lot? I think it would add a nice little pop of color and give more opportunities for weathering
Conflicted. I like it, and think with lots of weathering it looks great. but i made the choice for this one to stick to the "trad" 30k scheme. If i was doing some of my own i'd certainly be using white.
i think you probably can do something like this with leadbelcher spray base coat, then flood the area with lahmian medium and put dots of the green and purple in to the wet lahmian medium. once fully dry then black templar (probably thinned a bit with some contrast medium) over the top. note that i've not tried this, but i believe the lahmian medium trick was used by forge world to paint the ferrus manus primarch model. try it on a test model to see if it works!
At 7:40, you're pin-washing the model with the brown/black oil mixture. At 7:44, the model looks darker, and you said you applied "that and the transfers". Did you spray the oil mixture over the entire model? I feel like I'm missing a step. I love your work, and I'm taking notes. Thank you for the help!
if you were going to apply this forged armor recipe to Slaves to Darkness, would you tweak anything? I love the look and think they'd look great in it.
Great video! I had one question though. My set up doesn’t really allow for lacquers, is there anything you would recommend to sub for the Tamiya smoke?
For the Tamiya smoke, you said a few drops of thinner to paint…is that a higher paint or higher thinner content in the mix? Just curious to how thin the smoke goes over
what parts of the backpack got iron warriors? just the exhaust tube parts? was hard to tell? Also, could you use a thinned grey/black ink instead of Tamiya Smoke?
What do you do for ventilation while airbrushing? Do you use a booth/box or just on the table? Could I just get away with airbrushing over some newspaper?
We use booths, open window and a respirator. ( not for filming though). A respirator, open window and a box to catch overspray is a decent compromise though.
Nice! I am planning a steel scheme for my Stormcast using VMC paints, I want to varnish but am afraid of ruining the shine. Looking at this video, is Vallejo PU satin varnish the answer?
Great tutorial! I have one question though, what exact ratio did you use to dilute the Tamiya Smoke? I didn't quite get what you were saying in the video? 2 to 3 drops/parts of thinner to what? 1 drop of Tamiya?
I don't ever work to exact ratios, often needing to adjust due to lots of reasons. But my starting point with the smoke in this case was 3 drops thinner to 1 drop paint. When i saw how it was covering with the first pass I was happy and continued. When it's a new paint i will thin it 50/50 and test it on something else to see how i need to adjust.
Hi Henry - considering trying this scheme for the new Heresy box. The final image seems a lot darker on the body of the armour than in the rest of the video - does the smoke paint darken down as it dries?. To get closer to black armour could you just use more layers of Tamiya Smoke?
Just thinking if you were to apply this to a vehicle, would you do anything different is there anything to particular you'd need to consider? Just thinking for late flat surfaces without many details 🤔
question, how do you get your ammo mig varnish so smooth every time, when i use mine i follow the instructions (also using a CoP infinity) but it gives like an orange peel finish to it. tried vortex mixers, psi adjustments, distance adjustments ect but when it hits the surface of the mini it beads up instantly (i dont thin it, as per the instructions on the bottle)
Does anyone else have trouble with the Tamiya smoke step? I feel like it takes me so many coats, and I can’t get a similar black finish, it always ends up lighter… any tips?
I’ve found the solution to this- unlike most acrylic hobby paints, Tamiya smoke (not sure about the rest of the line) should actually be stirred to produce the best result. I got a nice black within about 2 coats after I started stirring. Thanks again for the tutorial!
Really like the idea of heat tarnished metal, but the green looks a little out of place. I don't see any green if I look at pictures from heat tarnished metal. I do like green as a color as a contrast to purple though. I would read it as a environmental reflection instead.
So stupid question - I don't have the neatest painting fingers in the world, so when you're doing bits like the Dark Grey highlight or the blue eye shine...how do you go back and cleanup with so many layers that the airbrush has put on? That's always been the biggest thing stopping me from trying these approaches - I have very unsteady hands. Awesome tutorial though - really makes me want to give this a go~
That Tamiya smoke trick is JUST what these needed. That added so much depth. Well done!
Glad you liked it!!
Henry is doing more to advertise the Horus Heresy than Forgeworld is
Haha not hard really!
instablaster
I really appreciate you specifying what exact brand of varnish you use. Many creators simply say "varnish the model satin", when in reality a "satin" finish differs greatly from brand to brand depending on the varnish. For example, the Vallejo Premium Satin varnish is bascially Matt while the AK Satin varnish is very much glossy. Really appreciate you going the extra mile since people might be after the exact look of the model in the video.
I paint my Hands similar to you though I add more yellow so the armor looks more distressed. This does look really nice as well though. More of a "high tech" feel! I'll give that a try as well.
One minor quibble if you permit. I think Iron Hand guns look best in white. The armor being mostly dark makes a white gun stand out and makes the model pop. Just a minor thing though and an A+ tutorial overall.
Amazing stuff. You guys have really opened my eyes when it comes to painting 'black'; first the heresy era dark angels, now this... Definitely need to try this on something.
Go for it, i tried it on some tyranid carapace before and it looks great.
This is so, so good! I had no idea you could add so much depth with just metals and oil paints. Thanks for putting this together.
Iron Warriors has to be one of the best citadel paints I have ever used.
So good isn't it, subtle change from leadbelcher but worth it
@@cultofpaint yeah leadbelcher was kinda brownish tinted
Excellent work, I don't say that lightly because I've seen a few how-to-paint Iron Hands videos and yours seems to be the best yet, the others look slap-dash. I also like how you get right into the painting of the figure in a pleasant, straight forward manner, avoiding needless showmanship and snarky comments. This makes your vids more approachable, the info more applicable so keep up the fine work! You have a new subscriber now!!
Welcome aboard!
This is absolutely fantastic. You got all those interesting hues of purple and green into the metal of the armour, while still keeping the process as simple as it can get. Truly great work !
I'm really curious to see what you'll end up with if you do a Sons of Horus one day in a similar "metalic" scheme (Like the one we can see in the HH books 1 and 4 by Forge World).
Thanks! The Sons of Horus sure are a tricky one when it comes to an "established" colour scheme.
I have been amassing a 30k iron hands army for two years. Lots of oop stuff. I have been too intimidated to put it together because I couldnt decide on a paint recipe. Thank you for this!
Good luck, get that resin painted!
Love the bit about 7:50 in just after the panel-lining when it suddenly registers as being black!
Registers as being black?
It looks darker than it started but I wouldn't say it's even remotely black.
It still looks cool as hell and not a derpy hazard stripe in sight.
why would there be a hazard stripe? these are iron hands not iron warriors
This is beautiful. I think I need to make an Iron Hands army now.
Do it!
Oh this comes at a perfect time for me. Love your work, as ever.
Nice one! Thanks!
I think I found my process for my Iron Hands !! Thanks a F ton !
Can't wait to try this on my primaris iron warrior once my airbrush an compressor arrives!!! So excited 😆
Good luck!
Awesome tutorial, so much for me to take away with my new Primaris Iron Hands army.
Nice, tag us in some progress, be great to see.
@@cultofpaint will do 🤙
I'm working with some of those old Mk3 heads with my army, nightmare to paint nicely. Great paint job!
They are so cool though
Henry - this is great. I can't wait to see you do Heresy era white scars!
Coming up!
@@cultofpaint amazing! i'm just about to start my marines soon so I'll wait for your approach.
About to start a shattered legion force. Will be trying some of these techniques
Here’s a new subscriber for ya, you’ve earned it. this video was great:)
Welcome aboard!
Love this, you did such a great job. I'm just out hunting for nice Iron Hands scheme and remembered this one from years ago! Would you do anything different now? Maybe use Streaking Grime for the dirt pass?
Hey! Thanks, it's a great scheme, just tweaked ever so slightly from the original Forgeworld one. With regards to what to use for dirt I think that's probably personal preference. If you like streaking grime then slap it on!
Lovely!
Thanks dude
Great tutorial.
Thank you!
Excellent
Thanks
Would love to see you guys do a pre/heresy world eaters vid tutorial
It's coming dude. You just keep on making those rad terminators
@@cultofpaint lovely, can't wait, i'm looking at going back to my world eaters alongside my imperial fists soon too and your fists tutorial is what I have been using to do my guys
Excellent scheme as always Henry! How do you feel about the white bolter casings that I see a lot? I think it would add a nice little pop of color and give more opportunities for weathering
Conflicted. I like it, and think with lots of weathering it looks great. but i made the choice for this one to stick to the "trad" 30k scheme. If i was doing some of my own i'd certainly be using white.
Is it possible to paint this without airbrush and the strange black paint ? like replacing it with black contrast paint ?
i think you probably can do something like this with leadbelcher spray base coat, then flood the area with lahmian medium and put dots of the green and purple in to the wet lahmian medium. once fully dry then black templar (probably thinned a bit with some contrast medium) over the top.
note that i've not tried this, but i believe the lahmian medium trick was used by forge world to paint the ferrus manus primarch model.
try it on a test model to see if it works!
Can I adopt you Henry??? lol love your videos
Haha!
At 7:40, you're pin-washing the model with the brown/black oil mixture.
At 7:44, the model looks darker, and you said you applied "that and the transfers". Did you spray the oil mixture over the entire model? I feel like I'm missing a step.
I love your work, and I'm taking notes. Thank you for the help!
I think it's just the lighting. Shiny schemes can be tricky to get right on camera. But it was gloss, pin wash & decals, satin.
Thank you, sir! Thank you for the content and instruction. Appreciate you!@@cultofpaint
if you were going to apply this forged armor recipe to Slaves to Darkness, would you tweak anything? I love the look and think they'd look great in it.
Nothing. Itd look great! If you do it please tag us, I'd love to see it.
Great video! I had one question though. My set up doesn’t really allow for lacquers, is there anything you would recommend to sub for the Tamiya smoke?
@@ivanstraussenberg5897 one of the contrast greys/blacks.
@@cultofpaint Thanks for the tip, keep up good work!
You should do Horus Heresy Death Guard next
I will be giving this a go - albeit with a brush, but the idea is the same :)
Don't use a nice brush with the tamiyas.
@@cultofpaint bold of you to assume I own nice brushes ;)
The only tamiya smoke I can find is water based? Is it a different paint or something? 😅
For the Tamiya smoke, you said a few drops of thinner to paint…is that a higher paint or higher thinner content in the mix? Just curious to how thin the smoke goes over
More thinner
what parts of the backpack got iron warriors? just the exhaust tube parts? was hard to tell? Also, could you use a thinned grey/black ink instead of Tamiya Smoke?
Yes to both
Also this video is missing from your Horus Heresy Playlist!
What do you do for ventilation while airbrushing? Do you use a booth/box or just on the table? Could I just get away with airbrushing over some newspaper?
We use booths, open window and a respirator. ( not for filming though). A respirator, open window and a box to catch overspray is a decent compromise though.
Nice! I am planning a steel scheme for my Stormcast using VMC paints, I want to varnish but am afraid of ruining the shine. Looking at this video, is Vallejo PU satin varnish the answer?
I’d suggest maybe mixing your own. Start 3:1 gloss:matte and adjust from there
Great tutorial! I have one question though, what exact ratio did you use to dilute the Tamiya Smoke? I didn't quite get what you were saying in the video? 2 to 3 drops/parts of thinner to what? 1 drop of Tamiya?
I don't ever work to exact ratios, often needing to adjust due to lots of reasons. But my starting point with the smoke in this case was 3 drops thinner to 1 drop paint. When i saw how it was covering with the first pass I was happy and continued. When it's a new paint i will thin it 50/50 and test it on something else to see how i need to adjust.
@@cultofpaint How many coats of Tamiya Smoke did you apply? Mine are still quite bright.
Hi Henry - considering trying this scheme for the new Heresy box. The final image seems a lot darker on the body of the armour than in the rest of the video - does the smoke paint darken down as it dries?. To get closer to black armour could you just use more layers of Tamiya Smoke?
It’s the final varnish after smoke that really darkens it.
@@cultofpaint thanks dude! Im going to be giving it a go with some tests over the next week so will let you know how it goes
Just thinking if you were to apply this to a vehicle, would you do anything different is there anything to particular you'd need to consider? Just thinking for late flat surfaces without many details 🤔
Yeah you could do a decent metallic preshade, so push the shadows and highlights a bit more.
@@cultofpaint it's settled new painting project it is 🤣
This is cracking so much better than simply black.... suppose it’s a good excuse to start another space marine army 😆
always a good idea ;)
Quick question: did you paint the 'trim' of the leg & arm armour plates?
On the legs yes. I'm constantly conflicted as to whether to do it.
question, how do you get your ammo mig varnish so smooth every time, when i use mine i follow the instructions (also using a CoP infinity) but it gives like an orange peel finish to it. tried vortex mixers, psi adjustments, distance adjustments ect but when it hits the surface of the mini it beads up instantly (i dont thin it, as per the instructions on the bottle)
my first coat always looks a little beady, but 3-4 in it smooths out.
@@cultofpaint ah fair, ill give it a go thanks. assumed adding more would make it worse, baited by overthinking xD
Does anyone else have trouble with the Tamiya smoke step? I feel like it takes me so many coats, and I can’t get a similar black finish, it always ends up lighter… any tips?
I’ve found the solution to this- unlike most acrylic hobby paints, Tamiya smoke (not sure about the rest of the line) should actually be stirred to produce the best result. I got a nice black within about 2 coats after I started stirring. Thanks again for the tutorial!
Hey mate, could this technique be applied to vehicles? (dreads, glads, etc)
Love this
What size brush you using for the eyes Henry? Looks bloody impossible
thats an old winsor series 7 size 0. Just don't put much paint on the tip.
Could I use something like Deathshroud Clear from GW instead of Tamiya Smoke?
Yeah similar enough
@@cultofpaint thank you. It was the only product I didn't have and I was hoping to find an alternative that is water-based like the rest for qol.
Really like the idea of heat tarnished metal, but the green looks a little out of place. I don't see any green if I look at pictures from heat tarnished metal. I do like green as a color as a contrast to purple though. I would read it as a environmental reflection instead.
Green is quite usually present on heat tarnished metal. It happens when the metal starts to become discoloured once it cools down.
Iron hands in black? No.
Iron hands in metal? Hellfuvking yes
all metal, all the time.
So stupid question - I don't have the neatest painting fingers in the world, so when you're doing bits like the Dark Grey highlight or the blue eye shine...how do you go back and cleanup with so many layers that the airbrush has put on? That's always been the biggest thing stopping me from trying these approaches - I have very unsteady hands.
Awesome tutorial though - really makes me want to give this a go~