This video is going to help me IMMENSELY when I start splitting the motor on my CT3 due to the right side case kicker insert being destroyed. Thanks for the awesome video footage and taking the time to show it all!
Thank you for making these videos. I have a CT3 that I am rebuilding. I’ve never spit cases on a motorcycle before and these videos give me the confidence to do it. Love your workshop and wealth of knowledge and tools! Have a great day.
Hi there, thank you very much for the kind words. They are really simple engines to work on. All you really need is a good manual. I am glad you found some value in the videos, it's always good to hear they are of some help. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop.
I can't imagine me trying to do that. It would be like someone trying to take apart a automatic transmission and putting it back together who's never done it before. 🤯 I still enjoy watching someone who can.
Thanks Dale! Your channel is my first stop for repairs of my F7s and XTs. You make it look possible for me to do a lot of jobs myself. MUCH appreciated!
Old Yamaha engines take me back to whrn i was a kid, building bikes in the shed at the bottom of my foljs house, we would cobble anything together so long as ut would pull us up and down the coal banks, my first road legal bike was a FS1E 50, there was two fizzy engines in a sack, one had a big bore top end on it, ported and all that but the gear selector shaft was worn smooth and the engine side cover had a crack in it plus someone had welded the kick start to the shaft because they had stripped all the splines off the shaft, so ye we made one good,fast engine out if the two, the quirky clutch arm mechanism and all that just takes me back
Yes, I think all of us that grew up with them have similar memories, it was hard to keep me off of them long enough to fix what was wrong. We had strip mining for coal in our area also, we climbed the chat hills, and would swim in the pits full of water, fish and hunt. These days all that area has be reclaimed because of the danger to the public and is no fun at all. They took all the fun and learning away from kids, all they do these days is look at their phone. Pretty sad, glad I grew up when I did.
@@montana2strokeracer ye we were lucky, we had the chance to be kids, and learn about danger and how to avoid getting killed whilst still having fun, lol one thing though not one long summer holiday went by that I didn't end up with an arm or leg in plaster 😆
Great video, Dale. Definitely learned something new. Most impressive is your analysis of WHY it happened and steps needed to remedy. Very possible the oil channel was too small from the factory.
Not sure that is the issue, it seems a little bit smaller than the other side but not by much. More than likely not enough oil. Think there must have been a problem at some point. Because they were premixing. Going to revisit the oil pump on this one. I have it running on straight gas now, and it is still smoking, and the piston looked great when it came out.
@@montana2strokeracer Hello Dale, today I opened my RT(2)360 engine for a complete overhaul. I found many cracks in the case. Can I send You a Foto that You can give me an statement if I can still use it? I really like Your calm way to explain old engines 👍 Best regards from Hamburg/Germany Lars
Hi Robert, yes you are correct, but these shims are selective. Meaning you use the amount and thickness of shims needed to achieve the proper crankshaft width of 56mm +.05mm -.10mm. I personally have never seen one that had shims on both sides, until this one. I normally only install them on the clutch side because when you tighten the gear nut you are pulling the crank that direction. If you don't have a shim there on the clutch side your crank can rub on the case. And since the crank is now held to the clutch side it cannot move toward the mag side. The crankshaft width is the critical measurement. Too wide it won't fit in the case or rub on it. Too narrow, not as big an issue that's why they give you more of a tolerance. I will show this as I have in other videos, the measuring of the depth of the cases and width measurement of the crankshaft. But according to the illustrated parts breakdown you are correct. Yamaha is saying as long as you have the crankshaft width correct, it will fit in the cases. I like to measure the case dimension just to make sure I have some clearance even though they never tell you what that is. Hey thanks for the comment and thanks for spending your time watching.
I agree with your assessment of the bearing, fortunately these motors are very straightforward and easy to understand and repair, as you demonstrate very well.
You stated that you have a video of the seal replacement on the 2 stroke Yamaha Enduro, I saw the video for the Flywheel side (great video by the way) but I can't find the video for te clutch side seal replacement in your library. Is it available? I'm working on a Husky left-kicker and I am unsure of the procedure , hoping to find knowledgeable guidance such as yourself to complete the repair. Thank you for the excellent source !
Dale please do a video on what you think caused the bearing to go bad, possible as you showed the oil gallery port wasent machined properly. also what was the fix.
That front sprocket is trash, does owner know he needs chain and sprocket set? Personally I would have heated case to get bearing to fall out. Got lucky the bearing cage didn't break up, that would have probably destroyed new piston, bore and the big end. (and I've seen bearings break through case into transmission) You could cut outer race of bearing in two places and see just how bad the tracks and balls are, I've seen some badly pitted ones when the hardening broke down
It's made by Noga, believe it's a company out of Israil. You can find them at most tool suppliers, can't remember the number on this one, believe it is the mid-sized one.
I'm currently rebuilding one of these but its a c1175. at 13:20 you effortlessly pulled off that driven gear after removing the nut. I am freaking struggling to get it off, I can not for the life of me get it off! any tips?
Great tech video Dale. Thanks so much for posting these, we learn so much from you. Im very interested to know if the oil passage was not cast deep enough and is the root of the problem.
This video is going to help me IMMENSELY when I start splitting the motor on my CT3 due to the right side case kicker insert being destroyed. Thanks for the awesome video footage and taking the time to show it all!
Thanks buddy, hope you can glean some good info from these videos. Good luck with your project.
Thank you for making these videos. I have a CT3 that I am rebuilding. I’ve never spit cases on a motorcycle before and these videos give me the confidence to do it. Love your workshop and wealth of knowledge and tools! Have a great day.
Hi there, thank you very much for the kind words. They are really simple engines to work on. All you really need is a good manual. I am glad you found some value in the videos, it's always good to hear they are of some help. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop.
I can't imagine me trying to do that. It would be like someone trying to take apart a automatic transmission and putting it back together who's never done it before. 🤯 I still enjoy watching someone who can.
Thanks Kevin, I am just sure you could do it if you needed to.
Someone definitely had their money's worth out of that bearing!
Best wishes, Dean.
Yes sir, it's had it. Time for new ones.
Thanks Dale! Your channel is my first stop for repairs of my F7s and XTs. You make it look possible for me to do a lot of jobs myself.
MUCH appreciated!
Thanks Gil, sure appreciate you taking the time to watch, I hope they are informative and are some help to folks.
Old Yamaha engines take me back to whrn i was a kid, building bikes in the shed at the bottom of my foljs house, we would cobble anything together so long as ut would pull us up and down the coal banks, my first road legal bike was a FS1E 50, there was two fizzy engines in a sack, one had a big bore top end on it, ported and all that but the gear selector shaft was worn smooth and the engine side cover had a crack in it plus someone had welded the kick start to the shaft because they had stripped all the splines off the shaft, so ye we made one good,fast engine out if the two, the quirky clutch arm mechanism and all that just takes me back
Yes, I think all of us that grew up with them have similar memories, it was hard to keep me off of them long enough to fix what was wrong. We had strip mining for coal in our area also, we climbed the chat hills, and would swim in the pits full of water, fish and hunt. These days all that area has be reclaimed because of the danger to the public and is no fun at all. They took all the fun and learning away from kids, all they do these days is look at their phone. Pretty sad, glad I grew up when I did.
@@montana2strokeracer ye we were lucky, we had the chance to be kids, and learn about danger and how to avoid getting killed whilst still having fun, lol one thing though not one long summer holiday went by that I didn't end up with an arm or leg in plaster 😆
Great video, Dale. Definitely learned something new. Most impressive is your analysis of WHY it happened and steps needed to remedy. Very possible the oil channel was too small from the factory.
Not sure that is the issue, it seems a little bit smaller than the other side but not by much. More than likely not enough oil. Think there must have been a problem at some point. Because they were premixing. Going to revisit the oil pump on this one. I have it running on straight gas now, and it is still smoking, and the piston looked great when it came out.
@@montana2strokeracer Hello Dale, today I opened my RT(2)360 engine for a complete overhaul.
I found many cracks in the case.
Can I send You a Foto that You can give me an statement if I can still use it?
I really like Your calm way to explain old engines 👍
Best regards from Hamburg/Germany
Lars
@@larsfriese9857 sure Lars, email to dsweger@bresnan.net
Here! Looking forward to this one. I'll sit here and wait for Cain and Frank.
Dang Dean, how long did you have to sit here and wait for those guys, 6 hours. We're going to dive into this bearing thing a bit more.
I am here ready to learn.
Glad you're here Mark.
There is shims both sides of the crank as shown in parts breakdown
Hi Robert, yes you are correct, but these shims are selective. Meaning you use the amount and thickness of shims needed to achieve the proper crankshaft width of 56mm +.05mm -.10mm. I personally have never seen one that had shims on both sides, until this one. I normally only install them on the clutch side because when you tighten the gear nut you are pulling the crank that direction. If you don't have a shim there on the clutch side your crank can rub on the case. And since the crank is now held to the clutch side it cannot move toward the mag side. The crankshaft width is the critical measurement. Too wide it won't fit in the case or rub on it. Too narrow, not as big an issue that's why they give you more of a tolerance. I will show this as I have in other videos, the measuring of the depth of the cases and width measurement of the crankshaft. But according to the illustrated parts breakdown you are correct. Yamaha is saying as long as you have the crankshaft width correct, it will fit in the cases. I like to measure the case dimension just to make sure I have some clearance even though they never tell you what that is. Hey thanks for the comment and thanks for spending your time watching.
I agree with your assessment of the bearing, fortunately these motors are very straightforward and easy to understand and repair, as you demonstrate very well.
Thank you for the kind words, yes, they are pretty easy to work on. I really enjoy these engines, and they really are very durable.
great job dale those bearings are toast crank looks like it as had a bit off trauma on flywheel thread sure ul sort it keep up the good work
Thanks Mark, yep going to change them out. It must be the angle, but I don't see any damage to the threads on this one.
Nice work! That bearing sounded dreadful as soon as you spun it in the case.
Yes Peter, these have seen better days for sure.
Just found your chanel awsome work
Thanks Robert, sure appreciate you spending time in the shop with me.
What size bolts are you puller using I'm doing mine thanks dale.
@robertsrbell7811 Hi Robert, you need 8mm 1.25 bolts
@@montana2strokeracer thank you
You stated that you have a video of the seal replacement on the 2 stroke Yamaha Enduro, I saw the video for the Flywheel side (great video by the way) but I can't find the video for te clutch side seal replacement in your library. Is it available? I'm working on a Husky left-kicker and I am unsure of the procedure , hoping to find knowledgeable guidance such as yourself to complete the repair. Thank you for the excellent source !
ua-cam.com/video/n36_TcDSd9I/v-deo.html
Here you go, thanks for watching, good luck with your project.
Here 6:00 am
Wow, Cain was sleeping and let Dean slip in here first, what's up buddy
Dale please do a video on what you think caused the bearing to go bad, possible as you showed the oil gallery port wasent machined properly. also what was the fix.
Yep working on it frank.
That front sprocket is trash, does owner know he needs chain and sprocket set?
Personally I would have heated case to get bearing to fall out.
Got lucky the bearing cage didn't break up, that would have probably destroyed new piston, bore and the big end. (and I've seen bearings break through case into transmission)
You could cut outer race of bearing in two places and see just how bad the tracks and balls are, I've seen some badly pitted ones when the hardening broke down
lets go to work.
Lets go.
What magnetic base holder are you using with your dial indicator?
It's made by Noga, believe it's a company out of Israil. You can find them at most tool suppliers, can't remember the number on this one, believe it is the mid-sized one.
I'm currently rebuilding one of these but its a c1175. at 13:20 you effortlessly pulled off that driven gear after removing the nut. I am freaking struggling to get it off, I can not for the life of me get it off! any tips?
I think your referring to the crankshaft gear, I have had to use a claw type puller to remove those before. But they should not be terrible to remove.
thank you! used a claw puller and got it off a few days ago. currently waiting on my new bearings and seals!
@@montana2strokeracer
Great tech video Dale. Thanks so much for posting these, we learn so much from you. Im very interested to know if the oil passage was not cast deep enough and is the root of the problem.
After comparing to the other side, not much difference. Think it was probably an oiling issue.