Condenser Fan Motor Possible Bearing Replacement
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- amzn.to/2Qr2BBI 1/4HP Motor 1075 RPM (Ball Bearings)
amzn.to/2QqluEP 1/3HP Motor 1075 RPM (Ball Bearings)
Both Motors Shafts can be cut to fit and both are reversible 48 or 48Y
It's a good idea to replace the capacitor when replacing the motor.
If the shaft rotates to the left, your motor is counterclockwise shaft end, or CCWSE. To determine lead end perspective, hold your motor up and point the shaft away from you. If the shaft rotates to the right, your motor is clockwise lead end, or CWLE.
I was not able to find a replacement sleeve or bushing for this motor. I would have liked to switch out to ball bearings but the motor end bells were tapered, so a ball bearing would not fit. The best solution is to buy a replacement motor with ball bearings.
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Doublewide6 Repairs LLC has a Master’s Degree in industrial technology with a specialization in Manufacturing, due to factors beyond the control of Doublewide6 Repairs LLC and anyone featured in his videos, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Doublewide6 Repairs LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video or any of Doublewide6’ Repairs LLC's videos. Use this information at your own risk. Doublewide6 Repairs LLC recommends safe practices when working on equipment, power tools, chemicals, electronics, electrical systems, vehicles, and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Doublewide6 Repairs LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Doublewide6 Repairs LLC.
amzn.to/2Qr2BBI 1/4HP Motor 1075 RPM (Ball Bearings)
amzn.to/2QqluEP 1/3HP Motor 1075 RPM (Ball Bearings)
Both Motors Shafts can be cut to fit and both are reversible.
It's a good idea to replace the capacitor when replacing the motor.
I've repaired going on nearly 75-100 of these motors now. Generally the front bushing is shot and the rear is salvageable. Any slop in the front(or rear) and the motor is allowed to pull to a side vs spin and will just hum/buzz. Most use a flat tube bushing, yours has a less common ball pivoting bushing. You can not find bushings for these new anywhere. I have tried ordering in bulk from China, Mexico, Taiwan etc, but I don't need 10,000 of them. They would have to be custom made. I modified a few generic bronze bushings (without a lathe) with decent success but ultimately I just swap a good rear to the front of a bad motor. So two bad motors can make one good. I have also modified ball bearings into a few but that generally took a lot more time and some of the cheap ball bearings I got had too much slop. I was getting the motors for free and was generally selling them for $40-$60 depending on HP with 15-45minutes of labor. Though the money was decent I decided this summer my time is spent better elsewhere and gave up on them.
Good to see you here, Moe. There are so many ways to make money it's not funny, as your story proves. Thanks, Man!!
I found a way to fix it. Because my bearings were good and the shaft was damaged, I found I could press the shaft forward about 1/2" (it moves using my big vise). This fix would shorten the front shaft length, but I too do not have a lathe so I would have to hand cut the groove for the snap ring with a hacksaw. Maybe chuck it up in the drill press and run a hacksaw blade against it. PS I saw your video on the Pneumatic leaky fittings, I saw and appreciate the link to my video on the subject, but would have hoped for a mention in the video (just for future reference). Take care buddy. Bob
Hello to both of you. I am dealing with a potentially bad bearing in a dometic roof top AC unit. No blower and all hum. Changed the cap and changed the control board before knowing how common this is. Those sleeve bearings and their lubrication system looks like a crap idea to me. Yes, there is oil in the wicking but it is not in contact with the bushing or shaft. It's as if they are just made to fail and these units are now $1400 instead of the $500 a few years ago.
I wonder why they don't just put ball bearings in them and call it a day. Unless they are building them to fail so they can sell more of them. I am going to try to work on the "old" motor and install ball bearings to see how it works out. I have 3 of these units so it's just a matter of time before another one bites the dust. Cheers to you.
Very interesting. I am dealing with a 42-year-old Tappan AC unit that has a similar motor that has been giving me some trouble over the past two years. A couple of years ago, it seized up and wouldn't run at all, and I managed to loosen the shaft with some oil, and I drilled an oil port into the lower area and lubed that and it worked fine for another year. This year it seized up again, and I had to drill an oil port for the top bearing and got some oil in there and it ran fine, but I've found that every few weeks now I need to add oil. Today when I opened up the AC unit again after the fan was making noise, I could feel a bit of play in the shaft as I gripped one of the fan blades and moved it back and forth. Surprisingly, once I oiled the top bearing, I could not feel that slop at all. It's running good again, but I know I ultimately need to find a new motor, which may not be easy, or fix this one. Seeing what you took apart here gives me some sense of what is likely in mine. Thank you very much. My AC unit was installed when my house was built in 1978, and I have live here since 1994 and never replaced it, so I'm sure the motor is original.
Thanks for opening the thing up and showing us how it is put together. I too wanted to know if there were bearings in there or not. Although I have opened a motor like that and oiled the white fabric with 3in1 oil. Learned it from another video. The white fabric needs oil to keep the shaft lubed and turning so that it doesn't overheat and trigger the thermal protector. If you had just oiled the fabric in there it would have run again.
For a few days anyways. It'll get you buy until a new motor shows up.
Very helpful in diagnosing the exact problems I was having. Definitely checking out more from your page and also gonna follow
You can drill out a 1-1/8 in hole in the end bells and add a 1616 ball bearing
I did it!!
I took the bearings from a variable speed motor works great
9:55 Bean counters have determined that a bronze bushing will last too long. You know beyond the 5 year service life. The bushing last for the life of the oil. The new B&S push mower engines are delivered with "permanent oil." Never needs changing. The oil is good for the life of the engine!
Thanks for sharing learned something I didn't know about these motors. Have a great day!!!
Good to hear. No more oil leaking on that honda?
Don’t forget when you check an electric motor to check the resistance from each lead to ground. Your lead to lead resistance could be OK, but you could have a short to ground somewhere.
Exactly what I needed to see!!
Thank you.
Thanks Bob for sharing this one. Most of the things you tackle and successfully fix are thought of as "disposable" or impossible to fix, and I've seen you win almost all of the time. The reality is, however, sometimes you can't win. Of course, unless you try you're guaranteed to fail. :>)
That is good advise.
I think that what that is, it’s a swiveling shaft end bushing. ...and that material if not refilled with oil, or lube, will eventually turn against the bushing, and the shaft, by acting as dirt, or an abrasive causing friction.
It looks like the shaft can be machined and press fit a bushing to restore the outside diameter. Thanks for the video...
With the right tooling (a lathe and press) it could be an easy fix.
the motor has the sleeve bearings on each end of the shaft. Oil diffuses from the packing material through the brushing (porous) onto the shaft for lubrication. I would not remove any of the packing material for it is impossible to pack them back. Use non detergent oil from auto store and saturate the packing material.
Speedisleeve the shaft could be a fix for that motor.
I enjoyed this content
Did you ever find out what that material was that holds the oil?
Question. How important is it that the replacement motor match specs with the OEM? Example, mine is an 1/8hp, can I upgrade to a 1/4hp motor? Would it cool the condenser better if all other specs were same?
You wouldn't want a 1/6 and check the amp draw after installation
i seen shafts scored and a flat spot worn from an imbalanced fan blade. as Emerson its now US Motors. but same part # if oe or a rescue motor. as most use a rescue motor as the rotation is reversable. is the new ball bearing motors also like this with the reversing wires?
I need more info my motor just magnitudes when turned on
A steel shaft riding in a steel bushing - what a bad idea.
12 years out of that outdoor motor. If it had accessible oil ports it would still be running.
That’s impressive for such a setup, especially in outdoor conditions.
@@doublewide6 yea, but based on how crap is engineered today, and the so called planned obsolescence designs, The best thing to do is to schedule preventative maintenance, and open your equipment from time to time to tweak it, or lube the moving parts.
I like to replace those OEM, rust prone steel screws on my room ACs, and get the part numbers on the fan motor bearings, to have an extra set, so when it comes to coil cleaning time, or when the bearings turn unbearable, by becoming screechers, then I open the fan motor to replace those. ...and definitely stay away from proprietary goods. John Deere, Apple, ect.
The sad part of motor design is how the manufacturers will cheap out on the one part that will fail most, the "bearing" or in this case a bushing or sleeve bearing vs. using quality sealed ball bearings. Had this motor been built with ball bearings it would still have tons of life left. The solution for us is to replace said motor with a USA made motor that has ball bearings vs. self aligning sleeve bearings which will in time require service of the packing with oil or suffer wear and tear.
I have a 4 year oil Rheem. All ready replaced the coil. Now the fan motor is making noise. nothing but Junk.
@@venvnco6259 Sad. Find a US Motors "Mojave" motor replacement. Those have real ball bearings vs sleeve or the like.
They could have added a weep hole for oil but they want use to buy a new motor.
Not a bad idea. You just need a rubber cap for it.
Spherical bearings
My FM RPM 825 was burnt, can I change RPM 1075?
has to be same rpm or subcooling will be off
Thank you, Cooling is good, emergency heat is good as well, but call for heat pump is not working at all, just flashing wait, wait...(long). on the thermostat.
most people wouldnt want to be without there heat or air conditioning while chasing parts,i have a local HVAC supply house that hasnt failed me yet. i guess with Amazon prime its there next day???? .everything today is throw away,i have a ww2 atlas lathe that i still use.
For AC stuff I pay extra for one day shipping. You got to figure that if you can fix it yourself without having the service man out your are already $100 ahead.
Just drill a 1 1/8 inch hole in the motor and bells and Epoxy the bearing
The bearings model number
FR8UG
I am indian
Thanks, city electric will sell to you, but when they find your not in the trades, they double the price. Rat Bastards.
Amazon and Grainger have most stuff. Grainger has experts that can identify matching replacement parts.
First!!
If you’re not first, you’re last.
Poor design....Planned to fail! I wouldn't buy that brand again.
Emerson Electric also make Hayward pool motors. 12 years is really not that bad for a fan.
Built in Obsolescence
good job if i'm in the Philippines looking at your UA-cam channel
Emerson is a great brand actually. That cellulose is meant to be reoiled, most manuals say every 6 months. Of course, it rarely happens. Bearings have higher friction loss and there's no guarantee they'll last any longer than a bushing, and they definitely won't outlast a properly maintained bushing. I have fans that are 100+ years old and the oiled bushings still work fine. No grease will last that long.
@@jbtvt 100+ years? I assume you must be reoiling them every now and then?