Thanks for the info - I can now clearly see the difference between the expanded & extruded foamboard. My next project is a small cabin deep in the woods on an abandoned road, and thanks to you, I have a much better handle on both the technical & aesthetic sides of building it. I have spent time in a number of these Connecticut beach cottages and many have a unique charm from the exposed full-dimension, rough sawn lumber, which was whitewashed, in many cases, to brighten the interiors.
Many thanks. I am re-roofing our home and will be adding insulation over a cathedral ceiling. Your tip on the barricade panel is just the ticket. Gratefully, Dadla.
Mr. Maxwell, this is a fine video. I've been doing research online for insulation using exterior foam sheathing. I want the feel and character like I've felt with my grandparents lake cabin. My Grandfather built in 1934 in Northern Minnesota. I love the look of boards in the vaulted ceiling. You're right, plywood just doesn't do it. By the way your other video of the floor, some good tips. Thanks.
I like the idea about exposing the roof sheathing - we have quite a few beach houses built in the 1920's here in Connecticut that have this rustic charm of the exposed framing & siding. As to the rigid insulation, I calculated that 2" t&g polystyrene foam board with OSB price out at 1/2 the cost of the barricade board (apprx $1.30/sq ft cheaper). Even on a small structure, that is hundreds of dollars less. I'll live with a bit less convenience for that kind of savings.
Hello Volvosan, Thanks for getting back to me. I'm about a month or two away from complete a video-enhanced ebook on building one particular design of cabin. The book goes into every last detail and includes about 40 videos that show how things are done. When are you planning to start building? I'll do my best to hurry up and get this book done. Should I keep you posted on it? Bye, Steve
Hey Steve, great video! I am in the process of building a 16'x20' cabin myself in The Laurentians in Quebec, and i am to do an open or cathedral ceiling with a mezzanine. I have a couple questions if you don't mind. 1) The decking or boards you used to cover the roof, were those tongue & groove, and do i have to use tongue and groove? As T & G is very expensive here in Quebec. Can i use something like pine 1"x8" NOT T&G? As I have a local saw mill guy that can supply non kiln dried pine boards very cheaply. 2) When covering the roof as you show in this video, do i need any kind of venting at the peak of the roof? Thanks and keep up the great work! :)
This is 100% what I need for my shop. Unfortunately, I can't find anywhere is Canada that sells it. Disappointing, but maybe I can find a competing product. Thanks!
Exterior foam sheathing... cool. He fastens the insulation panels to the roof rafters via screws and drills.... called Barricade wall panel... used for insulating basement walls. interesting. He uses those panels to insulate the roof from the outside and insulate the floors... Wow. Mated with 2 inches of extruded polystyrene foam bonded to factory bonded 7/16 of an inch wafer board... he seals the edges with spray foam after joining them together with their lip and tongue puzzle piece joints. He then uses tar paper or more Ice and water shield panels on top of the barricade wall panels like a sandwich THEN He puts the actual roofing stuff over all of that like shingles or a metal roofing too. Both can be fastened directly to the OSB components of the panels... genius.
Hello Steve. Very useful video. Thank you for helping so many people. I live inn San Antonio, Texas and I am having a hard time to find the barricade panels. Any leads you can provide?
hi thanks for the well done, informative video. with that insulation on the floor do you not have to worry about having heavy objects on the floor? like a fridge or stove? seems like that foam could be compressed pretty easily.
I am looking for a sound deadening effect. Would installing this on top of the subfloor help with deadening the sound of heavy weights being dropped onto it.
Hi Steve! Thanks for the video! Maybe you could help. I want to build a small A frame cabin and I'd like the wood exposed to the inside. Will this work for an A-frame? I'm asking because of the roofs closer proximity to the ground ( I live in Michigan) and the fact that the structure has less regular wall space. I was thinking gable end vents would be sufficient to release moisture that gets trapped up top. So if all this is correct how should I insulate the gable ends? I understand the roof will be releasing any trapped moisture to the inside and that I would need to control indoor humidity levels. But not sure then what to do with the gable ends? If I choose to insulate those from the inside should I put a vapor barrier over the insulation? Thanks. Hope this makes sense?
I'm planning a A frame build myself and am having a hard time finding a cheap solution for insulating the exterior surface of the roof I notice that this was 3 years ago. By any chance did you come up with a solution?
Marcus Jordan Same. A frame house. My A frame house will have 3 basements aka 3 sub basements. Insulating that first level is my remaining problem. I took notes on the video but yea those gable ends though
Hi Steve, what about venting and moisture migration from the interior areas with extreme temperature differentials? I am about to embark on roofing our family's cabin in Minnesota (built in the late 1890's). Every roofer I talk to has a different opinion whether venting is needed or not. I'm just worried about condensation / moisture migration. Thanks for your expertise!
I have the same type of ceiling/roof. Can I spray foam the inside and seal the ceiling/roof then go over top with knotty pine? Not sure because there is no ventilation. Thanks
For insulating the floors I think I will also use the barricade polystyrene wall panels. He says to fashion the walls and door threshold to give the 2 inches of space needed to put the panels on top of the subfloor. Because the panels themselves are a little over 2 inches. I think I will use 4 inches of room and make 2 inches directly above the subfloor made of cob and the last two remaining inches will be for the insulation panels. So I’ll have to fashion my floors to have 4 inches of room between the sub floor and the wall rafters and door threshold. Just like he used I will have to drill screws to fasten one layer on top of the other. Except no screws are needed for Cob to the primary subfloor. Great news that he gives his after doing all of that I can put my hardwood floors on top of all that and everything will be just fine. ☺️
This is a really great video! I agree with the statements.... I will be building cabins of this same design very soon.... Is there a way to get these plans? Thanks!
HI Steve. Love the idea of using the Barricade Wall Panels on the roof. No venting needed, right? But...where do you get them. I can't find them. Thanks.
Hi Steve! Great video. Think I'm going to go with your tip here with the Insulated Wall Panels. I was wondering, I'm doing part of my roof and so I want something like a metal trim to go from the top of the board under the shingles, down the side of the panels, and then under the shingles on the lower part of the roof. Any suggestions? Thanks a bunch! ~J
Thanks Steve. Would spraying closed cell foam on the underside of the floor in addition to the barricade board on the interior floor make sense. Also on your website do you discuss any enclosed spaces for running the waterline and septic from the floor to the ground. I have read about chases which are insulated and using an inside heat tape for the waterline.
Great video Steve. Thanks for sharing. Would you have any suggestions for insulation in a 1929 pier and beam house in Austin TX? I believe this era house planned on air movement but with HVAC being added I am concerned about sealing up the floors.
What is the additional costs per square feet? I'm planning to build a 14 x 26 foot little cabin on my property. This looks like a great way to insulate it. Have you ever built a cabin with SIPs?
Steve, great concept! question though, conventionally, you would leave an airspace from the eve to the ridge to allow ventilation so the roof surface does not get so hot that the shingles start to curl. What are your thoughts?
Just wondering here...can you get a product like this with a reflective foil shield on top? I'd like to see the foam have a little help with this...and it's not significantly higher in cost for other sheet goods. Also as the space I'm considering of "helping" is part time and only 14' x 24' I'd also be happy with as little as 1" of foam. What are my options? I'm located about 40 miles "as the crow flies" north of Los Angeles. Thanks to any that reply. BTW I'd like to do as much of the work as possible by myself.
Hi Steve ...i bought a cottage with the roof already changed and wanted to take down the ceilings tiles in the kitchen and family room to leave exposed cedar ..is there any other way to insulate ?i was thinking of spray foam and then tounge and groove panelling over top .would this way be alright or would it cause ice damming on the roof. thanks
also would love to use your technique on insulating floor but dont dont have that 2 or 3 inches need to apply foam board as cottage is been around longer than me ..any suggestions?
Steve how to do you alter the walls and door threshold for the barricade board on the floors? Your video moved over this to quickly Also how are the soffits insulated.Thanks
You're basically elevating all the door headers up the same thickness of the insulated board. 2" on the floor, door headers go up 2". You may also want to adjust your window sill/headers up 2" if using 2" insulated board. Because you loose the base plate on the walls, you have to had base blocks; such as 2x6"s all along the bottom of all your walls. It's quite a bit of work.
Hi Rob, Yes, you're right for some situations. You're free to add more foam if you want to meet code in a cold climate. But even 2" of extruded poly makes the attic nice and comfortable in summers that get up to 90ºF. You need to open windows in the loft, of course, but the foams makes all the difference. Thanks for watching! Steve
How does the roof breath? You don't insulate the floor you insulate the skirting around he foundation. It gets to -52 C here and no problem with the floor that is skirted.
@stevemaxwell Hi Steve, interesting information. I am looking to construct a cabin next year. I agree and like your point that it is always nice to see the wood from the inside. However, I live 150km inside the Arctic Circle in Swedish Lapland. Temps here will drop to -40C at times thats C not F :) Can I get thicker material like that or would I just put on a double layer to ensure heat is capsulated within. Thanks again. I like your style. Craig
Good Morning Craig! That sounds like you've got a great project planned. The approach of insulating from the top works no matter how cold things get. We regularly get -25ºC during winter where we built our cabin, but in your case I'd at least double the layer of roof insulation. The only limitation is how thick you want to make the roof structure. The most insulation the better, but of course is comes at the expense of a roof that could seem too thick aesthetically. Does this help? I hope so. Please let me know. The video you see here is part of a detailed plans and instruction package I created for building your own cabin. You can learn more here: gumroad.com/l/sDtK Bye, Steve
Thanks for your prompt reply Steve, think I will spend a little time looking through your videos, gleaming your knowledge. Hahahaha. I note that you mentioned "at least" double it, do you mean maybe triple it? For the Majority temps are around -20 but coldest 3 weeks and we can be -30 to -40, 24 hours a day. Seen the book, looks interesting but is it only for one particular design of cabin or can I use it to help create my own design?
Hi Craig, You're not a whole lot colder than where I am, and we do get some icing on the eaves during long spells of cold weather. Doubling would probably eliminate that. Tripling certainly would. As for the book, the design there is specific, but also easily modified. The main thing the design delivers is that way the walls, the porch, the roof and the floor are created. Take care! Steve P.S. Do you live in Lapland now, or will you be moving there? Just curious.
Steve Maxwell Scottish guy living in Swedish Lapland. if you check snowdog.se you'll see a cool video of what we do, so just in the progress of making things better. right now I live in s 30m2 Barack....hahaha
+Steve Maxwell how you doing brother I have a question for you I have bought one of those small cabins they are premade unfortunately I didn't have the time or money to build my own I was in dire need of a living abode now it's getting very cold I'm not working with very much money come to to a terrible financial situation can you give me any tips at all on insulating this cabin if I need to send pictures I will it seems that the roof below the 10 is only particle board but the floor is plywood how can I insulate this cabin for less money and also I'm going to be doing it myself do I need to insulate the walls also I've been told to use an organic spray foam but I've watched your videos on doing the roof and floor only I think there needs to be some type of insulation on the walls because the only thing covering the walls is the outside covering wall of the two by fours or the framework if you could give me any pointers or tips that would be very much appreciated and needed I highly regard your advice thanks so much your fellow American brother
+Jay Bronson Good Morning Jay! Thanks for your note. I've learned that the people who make the Barricade panels stopped manufacturing them, but that's okay. You can achieve the same thing using 2" extruded polystyrene foam underneath 1/2" plywood. put the foam down first, then the ply. Drive screws through everything into the underlying floor joists. Choose screw length that extends at least an inch into the joists. I hope this help, Jay. Bye for now, Steve
I have a hard time believing that you can get R24 out of an R12 Foam board especially when the best 2" foam board I know of has an R value of 9. Yet you are getting R24? I call BS on that. You are a great speaker, my friend, so good it sounds more like an ad to me especially when you said this laminated OSB+foam and a sheet of 4x8 foam are close in the same cost which common sense would tell anyone that it is clearly not true. Also, this stuff would be the same slipperiness as any other foam on whatever is underneath it. Another false claim in my opinion. I don't know where you live however R12 in the ceiling will not work here in Canada.
Anybody that says cabin instead of camp has way too much money obviously from this roof system I've seen looks awesome but the cost must be crazy a cabin is a house at a camp is a camp
More than 10 years in action now, and things remain bone-dry and exactly like it was installed. Besides, where would the moisture come from that would cause rot?
You should post this with an asmr title. You got the right voice.
Excellent. I'm planning a cabin project and will be doing most if not all the work myself so your system is perfect for me and the cabin. Thanks!
Nicely described the insulation process of cabin roof. Thanks for sharing such an informative video.
Thanks for the info - I can now clearly see the difference between the expanded & extruded foamboard. My next project is a small cabin deep in the woods on an abandoned road, and thanks to you, I have a much better handle on both the technical & aesthetic sides of building it.
I have spent time in a number of these Connecticut beach cottages and many have a unique charm from the exposed full-dimension, rough sawn lumber, which was whitewashed, in many cases, to brighten the interiors.
Many thanks. I am re-roofing our home and will be adding insulation over a cathedral ceiling. Your tip on the barricade panel is just the ticket. Gratefully, Dadla.
Awesome video great explanation thanks
You make some great points. Almost exactly how I'm building my cabin.
Mr. Maxwell, this is a fine video. I've been doing research online for insulation using exterior foam sheathing. I want the feel and character like I've felt with my grandparents lake cabin. My Grandfather built in 1934 in Northern Minnesota. I love the look of boards in the vaulted ceiling. You're right, plywood just doesn't do it. By the way your other video of the floor, some good tips. Thanks.
I like the idea about exposing the roof sheathing - we have quite a few beach houses built in the 1920's here in Connecticut that have this rustic charm of the exposed framing & siding. As to the rigid insulation, I calculated that 2" t&g polystyrene foam board with OSB price out at 1/2 the cost of the barricade board (apprx $1.30/sq ft cheaper). Even on a small structure, that is hundreds of dollars less. I'll live with a bit less convenience for that kind of savings.
Great Advice, very thankful, just what I was looking for, God Bless You.
Hello Volvosan,
Thanks for getting back to me. I'm about a month or two away from complete a video-enhanced ebook on building one particular design of cabin. The book goes into every last detail and includes about 40 videos that show how things are done. When are you planning to start building? I'll do my best to hurry up and get this book done. Should I keep you posted on it?
Bye,
Steve
watching from Yorkshire - great video Mr Maxwell. wish i had one of these in my little English garden
Nicely done.
Just subscribed. You know your stuff and are great on camera
Thanks for the tip
really through process &instruction. thx
Hey Steve, great video! I am in the process of building a 16'x20' cabin myself in The Laurentians in Quebec, and i am to do an open or cathedral ceiling with a mezzanine.
I have a couple questions if you don't mind.
1) The decking or boards you used to cover the roof, were those tongue & groove, and do i have to use tongue and groove? As T & G is very expensive here in Quebec. Can i use something like pine 1"x8" NOT T&G? As I have a local saw mill guy that can supply non kiln dried pine boards very cheaply.
2) When covering the roof as you show in this video, do i need any kind of venting at the peak of the roof?
Thanks and keep up the great work!
:)
This is 100% what I need for my shop. Unfortunately, I can't find anywhere is Canada that sells it. Disappointing, but maybe I can find a competing product. Thanks!
We should see more of the roof, I guess!
Thanks!
Good advice
Exterior foam sheathing... cool. He fastens the insulation panels to the roof rafters via screws and drills.... called Barricade wall panel... used for insulating basement walls. interesting. He uses those panels to insulate the roof from the outside and insulate the floors... Wow. Mated with 2 inches of extruded polystyrene foam bonded to factory bonded 7/16 of an inch wafer board... he seals the edges with spray foam after joining them together with their lip and tongue puzzle piece joints.
He then uses tar paper or more Ice and water shield panels on top of the barricade wall panels like a sandwich THEN He puts the actual roofing stuff over all of that like shingles or a metal roofing too. Both can be fastened directly to the OSB components of the panels... genius.
This mans other job is a orchestra conductor...jokes aside great video and info..thank you.
Hello Steve. Very useful video. Thank you for helping so many people. I live inn San Antonio, Texas and I am having a hard time to find the barricade panels. Any leads you can provide?
I wanted to see the installation and the final product completed.
hi thanks for the well done, informative video. with that insulation on the floor do you not have to worry about having heavy objects on the floor? like a fridge or stove? seems like that foam could be compressed pretty easily.
Do you have a link to the barricade wall panels you show in this video??
Hey Steve. Great video. Do you need any venting channels for the roof? Thanks
John Jacobs it would help. many videos on UA-cam show how
I am looking for a sound deadening effect. Would installing this on top of the subfloor help with deadening the sound of heavy weights being dropped onto it.
Hi Steve, Could you send me link or information for the Barricade panels? I'll appreciate your help.
Hey Steve. Question: what is the brand name of the ice and water shield that you are using? Thanks
Where can I find more information about the claim that foam insulation has twice the performance of equivalent R-value batt insulation?
Hello,
I live in a very hot desert climate and wondering if/how a radiant barrier should be installed along with these panels. Thanks in advance.
Hi Steve! Thanks for the video! Maybe you could help. I want to build a small A frame cabin and I'd like the wood exposed to the inside. Will this work for an A-frame? I'm asking because of the roofs closer proximity to the ground ( I live in Michigan) and the fact that the structure has less regular wall space. I was thinking gable end vents would be sufficient to release moisture that gets trapped up top. So if all this is correct how should I insulate the gable ends? I understand the roof will be releasing any trapped moisture to the inside and that I would need to control indoor humidity levels. But not sure then what to do with the gable ends? If I choose to insulate those from the inside should I put a vapor barrier over the insulation? Thanks. Hope this makes sense?
I'm planning a A frame build myself and am having a hard time finding a cheap solution for insulating the exterior surface of the roof I notice that this was 3 years ago. By any chance did you come up with a solution?
Marcus Jordan Same. A frame house. My A frame house will have 3 basements aka 3 sub basements. Insulating that first level is my remaining problem. I took notes on the video but yea those gable ends though
Hi Steve, what about venting and moisture migration from the interior areas with extreme temperature differentials? I am about to embark on roofing our family's cabin in Minnesota (built in the late 1890's). Every roofer I talk to has a different opinion whether venting is needed or not. I'm just worried about condensation / moisture migration. Thanks for your expertise!
Hello, I am building a cabin similar to this one with the open rafters and roof boards near Dryden, Ontario. Where can a fella find these panels?
I have the same type of ceiling/roof. Can I spray foam the inside and seal the ceiling/roof then go over top with knotty pine? Not sure because there is no ventilation. Thanks
For insulating the floors I think I will also use the barricade polystyrene wall panels. He says to fashion the walls and door threshold to give the 2 inches of space needed to put the panels on top of the subfloor. Because the panels themselves are a little over 2 inches. I think I will use 4 inches of room and make 2 inches directly above the subfloor made of cob and the last two remaining inches will be for the insulation panels. So I’ll have to fashion my floors to have 4 inches of room between the sub floor and the wall rafters and door threshold. Just like he used I will have to drill screws to fasten one layer on top of the other. Except no screws are needed for Cob to the primary subfloor. Great news that he gives his after doing all of that I can put my hardwood floors on top of all that and everything will be just fine. ☺️
This is a really great video! I agree with the statements.... I will be building cabins of this same design very soon.... Is there a way to get these plans? Thanks!
HI Steve. Love the idea of using the Barricade Wall Panels on the roof. No venting needed, right? But...where do you get them. I can't find them.
Thanks.
Hi Steve! Great video. Think I'm going to go with your tip here with the Insulated Wall Panels. I was wondering, I'm doing part of my roof and so I want something like a metal trim to go from the top of the board under the shingles, down the side of the panels, and then under the shingles on the lower part of the roof. Any suggestions?
Thanks a bunch! ~J
Hi I have a question. Does the vapor barrier go directly on the tongue and groove decking?
Thanks Steve. Would spraying closed cell foam on the underside of the floor in addition to the barricade board on the interior floor make sense. Also on your website do you discuss any enclosed spaces for running the waterline and septic from the floor to the ground. I have read about chases which are insulated and using an inside heat tape for the waterline.
Ice and water shield panels held down with cap staples to the roof boards... Interesting
You can find something like this on the Avasva page. Full step-by-step instructions right on your desk.
Great video Steve. Thanks for sharing. Would you have any suggestions for insulation in a 1929 pier and beam house in Austin TX? I believe this era house planned on air movement but with HVAC being added I am concerned about sealing up the floors.
What is the additional costs per square feet? I'm planning to build a 14 x 26 foot little cabin on my property. This looks like a great way to insulate it. Have you ever built a cabin with SIPs?
Did you build your cabin? How did it come out?
Steve, great concept! question though, conventionally, you would leave an airspace from the eve to the ridge to allow ventilation so the roof surface does not get so hot that the shingles start to curl. What are your thoughts?
***** Links aren't working.. DOH!
Just wondering here...can you get a product like this with a reflective foil shield on top? I'd like to see the foam have a little help with this...and it's not significantly higher in cost for other sheet goods. Also as the space I'm considering of "helping" is part time and only 14' x 24' I'd also be happy with as little as 1" of foam. What are my options? I'm located about 40 miles "as the crow flies" north of Los Angeles. Thanks to any that reply. BTW I'd like to do as much of the work as possible by myself.
Hi Steve ...i bought a cottage with the roof already changed and wanted to take down the ceilings tiles in the kitchen and family room to leave exposed cedar ..is there any other way to insulate ?i was thinking of spray foam and then tounge and groove panelling over top .would this way be alright or would it cause ice damming on the roof. thanks
also would love to use your technique on insulating floor but dont dont have that 2 or 3 inches need to apply foam board as cottage is been around longer than me ..any suggestions?
Steve how to do you alter the walls and door threshold for the barricade board on the floors? Your video moved over this to quickly Also how are the soffits insulated.Thanks
You're basically elevating all the door headers up the same thickness of the insulated board. 2" on the floor, door headers go up 2". You may also want to adjust your window sill/headers up 2" if using 2" insulated board. Because you loose the base plate on the walls, you have to had base blocks; such as 2x6"s all along the bottom of all your walls. It's quite a bit of work.
Hey steve i live in Australia and am finding it extremely difficult to find the barricade panels. do you know of any seller here?
Better than working under the cabin.
2 inch insulation give maybe an r 14 at most not enough insulation
Hi Rob,
Yes, you're right for some situations. You're free to add more foam if you want to meet code in a cold climate. But even 2" of extruded poly makes the attic nice and comfortable in summers that get up to 90ºF. You need to open windows in the loft, of course, but the foams makes all the difference.
Thanks for watching!
Steve
Two inches more than most cabins
How does the roof breath? You don't insulate the floor you insulate the skirting around he foundation. It gets to -52 C here and no problem with the floor that is skirted.
Try u-wert.net
@stevemaxwell Hi Steve, interesting information. I am looking to construct a cabin next year. I agree and like your point that it is always nice to see the wood from the inside. However, I live 150km inside the Arctic Circle in Swedish Lapland. Temps here will drop to -40C at times thats C not F :) Can I get thicker material like that or would I just put on a double layer to ensure heat is capsulated within. Thanks again. I like your style. Craig
Good Morning Craig!
That sounds like you've got a great project planned. The approach of insulating from the top works no matter how cold things get. We regularly get -25ºC during winter where we built our cabin, but in your case I'd at least double the layer of roof insulation. The only limitation is how thick you want to make the roof structure. The most insulation the better, but of course is comes at the expense of a roof that could seem too thick aesthetically.
Does this help? I hope so. Please let me know. The video you see here is part of a detailed plans and instruction package I created for building your own cabin. You can learn more here: gumroad.com/l/sDtK
Bye,
Steve
Thanks for your prompt reply Steve, think I will spend a little time looking through your videos, gleaming your knowledge. Hahahaha. I note that you mentioned "at least" double it, do you mean maybe triple it? For the Majority temps are around -20 but coldest 3 weeks and we can be -30 to -40, 24 hours a day. Seen the book, looks interesting but is it only for one particular design of cabin or can I use it to help create my own design?
Hi Craig,
You're not a whole lot colder than where I am, and we do get some icing on the eaves during long spells of cold weather. Doubling would probably eliminate that. Tripling certainly would.
As for the book, the design there is specific, but also easily modified. The main thing the design delivers is that way the walls, the porch, the roof and the floor are created.
Take care!
Steve
P.S. Do you live in Lapland now, or will you be moving there? Just curious.
Steve Maxwell Scottish guy living in Swedish Lapland. if you check snowdog.se you'll see a cool video of what we do, so just in the progress of making things better. right now I live in s 30m2 Barack....hahaha
300 mm
It's good to see the woodprix has new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
please can you help me! I have a octagonal roof HOW CAN I INSULATE IT???? NEED TO KNOW :)
+Steve Maxwell how you doing brother I have a question for you I have bought one of those small cabins they are premade unfortunately I didn't have the time or money to build my own I was in dire need of a living abode now it's getting very cold I'm not working with very much money come to to a terrible financial situation can you give me any tips at all on insulating this cabin if I need to send pictures I will it seems that the roof below the 10 is only particle board but the floor is plywood how can I insulate this cabin for less money and also I'm going to be doing it myself do I need to insulate the walls also I've been told to use an organic spray foam but I've watched your videos on doing the roof and floor only I think there needs to be some type of insulation on the walls because the only thing covering the walls is the outside covering wall of the two by fours or the framework if you could give me any pointers or tips that would be very much appreciated and needed I highly regard your advice thanks so much your fellow American brother
+Steve Maxwell my cabin measurements are 14 foot by 32 foot it's a lofted cabin
+Steve Maxwell also where can I get some barricade panels in Alabama I'm having a hard time locating some
+Jay Bronson Good Morning Jay! Thanks for your note. I've learned that the people who make the Barricade panels stopped manufacturing them, but that's okay. You can achieve the same thing using 2" extruded polystyrene foam underneath 1/2" plywood. put the foam down first, then the ply. Drive screws through everything into the underlying floor joists. Choose screw length that extends at least an inch into the joists. I hope this help, Jay.
Bye for now,
Steve
Thanks brother
woodprix is full of awesome tips. Very helpful to me. Thanks
I have a hard time believing that you can get R24 out of an R12 Foam board especially when the best 2" foam board I know of has an R value of 9. Yet you are getting R24? I call BS on that. You are a great speaker, my friend, so good it sounds more like an ad to me especially when you said this laminated OSB+foam and a sheet of 4x8 foam are close in the same cost which common sense would tell anyone that it is clearly not true. Also, this stuff would be the same slipperiness as any other foam on whatever is underneath it. Another false claim in my opinion. I don't know where you live however R12 in the ceiling will not work here in Canada.
You can make fake rafters so it still looks great from the inside.
plans from woodprix are awesome!
You shoud never use polystyrene insulation, because it is a fire hazard.
Anybody that says cabin instead of camp has way too much money obviously from this roof system I've seen looks awesome but the cost must be crazy a cabin is a house at a camp is a camp
Isn't foam insulation a nest for ants?
I believe most foam board is closed cell.
If you want to know how to do it yourself, just look for Stodoys.
Mn
Simple! but not fire proof
, m8
U r gonna rot out in no time...folks...watch some videos on passive homes...
More than 10 years in action now, and things remain bone-dry and exactly like it was installed. Besides, where would the moisture come from that would cause rot?
Audio volume is too low. You lost me because of this. Too bad because I’m interested in the subject.
Very informative: thank you. However,... 1st rule of public speaking: Know what you're doing: Put Your Hands DOWN please.
They make this in 4 And 6 inch foam depends on what you want to spend