The 2 Golden Rules for Expanding the Broodnest - Jacksonville FL Zone 9b
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- Опубліковано 2 лют 2024
- #Honeybee #Beekeeping #QueenRearing #Bees #Florida #zone9garden #zone9b #zone9 #Apiary #Beekeeper #Grafting #Swarm #SwarmTrap #OxalicAcid #Varroa #SmallHiveBeetle #SHB #Langstroth
My name is Chuck Cook and I am a beekeeper In Jacksonville, FL. Hardiness zone 9b. Please engage in the discussion by leaving a comment. - Наука та технологія
I really like the demonstrations with the visuals (boxes with tape). Very helpful.
Very interesting information, didn't know that golden rules. Thanks' for sharing you valuable knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
I also like the date and temperature displayed in the bottom left. That’s also VERY helpful.
Thank you for the feedback.
With your visual tape colors & explanations, it was like 💡💡, EUREKA!
Im really glad that helped explain the lesson.
Love your straightforward and clear style. Also thanks for giving the golden rules up front versus holding out till the end. Helps reinforce learning. Thanks again. I know putting good content out is difficult but it is appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
This was an excellent presentation! I will share with fellow club members. It’s also very timely. Thanks for going to the trouble.
Please do! Glad you found it useful!
I love at the frame labels at the beginning of your video.
Thank you for that feedback. I have a few more lessons I think I will use this visualization technique.@@tsensenig8045
Wow. Good maneuvers. Always pleasure watching professional beekeeper. Impressive indeed.
So nice of you
Thank you for this video. You are explaining in details step by step how to expand weak colonies. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video... I'm up north (N IL)... still waiting for spring!! Good to see what's coming and prep.
Good luck! Thanks for the comment.
Took a class this morning at Jaxbees, great class, then got a bucket full of comb and a wax brick from a couple of club members to melt for my swarm traps. Great day today.
Nice!
Excellent teachings - thank you.
You are very welcome
I’m really glad you covered this subject today.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment.
Real good presentation, thanks for sharing your time.👍
Thanks for watching! Appreciate the comment too.
Great video and presentation! Enjoyed watching and very helpful info for us beekeepers! Thanks for sharing. Have a great weekend!
So glad you found it helpful. And thanks for the comment!
It's really good lesson. I Love it❤
Thank you! 😃
This is EXACTLY what I needed to learn as a new beekeeper. Thank you Chuck!
Glad to help, and I appreciate the feedback.
That was great information for a "newbie" - Thanks from Sweden.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment!
Once population is up and nights in the 50s I'll checkerboard every frame if I feel like it and usually never see any chilled brood..if I'm even thinking of swarming I'm not concerned about breaking up the broodnest,nights hitting 20's is different.tiny weak hive is different..but 6 frames of brood is done off to the races ..
Thanks for the comment.
Really interesting. You clearly know what you are doing!
I appreciate that! Thanks for the comment.
Great visual representation and description !
Thank you kindly! Appreciate the comment and support.
Great presentation! Very easy to understand. Keep up the vids they are very helpful.
Thanks, will do! Glad they are resonating with you.
In the hive you found the capped superseder cells, The bees were doing something in that weak hive. I would have put on a queen excluder, and let the bees finish what they were doing. And put the caged queen in the top box. Then came back in two weeks to see what I had. The bees were making the queen’s for some reason, and at worst you have ended up with two queens to make a split. Double screen board would have been better than a queen excluder even.
I ended up doing that a few days later. They wanted supercedure for sure. I pulled a nuc off this hive with the old queen.
Excellent presentation that was very easy to understand. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! I'm so glad it was helpful.
Good stuff Chuck!
Thanks 👍 Appreciate the comment Bruce.
Great video
Thanks for the comment and support.
I had a colony last season that kept on making a single queen cell on one side of the hive. I can't remember what the frame configuration was but I'm wondering if it was a split nest case as you mentioned.
Very possible. Thanks for the comment.
Great demo!
I appreciate the feedback!
Excellent video. Thanks for the help. Just getting started and I think I have broken all the rules.
Glad it helped! Appreciate the feedback.
Nice video Chuck, but my one suggestion is to slow down and show the viewers what you are doing. Many comments suggest "good presentation," but yet I did not see the queen that you isolated. I subbed to your channel. Looking forward to watching more from you.
Thanks for the tip
Great content!
Thanks for the comment!
22:15 you leave like a green paint brush and a yellow sponge between two boxes what are those? Are those those expensive sensors?
The green plastic thing you are noticing is a broodminder hive temperature sensor. The yellow swedish sponge has extended release oxalic acid with glycerin for mite control. I have a separate video on making extended release Oxalic Acid strips and sponges.
Great information 👍🇺🇸
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome video🙌
Thank you 🙌
I'm a new beekeeper coming into my first early spring conundrums of split or not to split. This is the most helpful advice I've seen yet. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful! Welcome ..
Nice video. One other thing i do is swap places between a strong and weak hive, instant boost.
Thanks for the comment. Robin Hood technique is good. Equalize.
@@chuckshoneybees just watched Bob Bimnie switch hives. Equalized in 2 minutes🤔😂
Great Info😍😮Always fun to see how other beeks do it😍 Why manage from the front though?
I have my hives close up to the hedge row (for space reasons in the yard), and there just isn't room to work from the back. Good call out though, working from the side or back is better.
Beekeeping is local. I would not expose my brood too long in 50 degree weather. You added brood to a hive you said may swarm or supersede the Queen. I would remove the old Queen to a Nuc. Add brood to the main hive with the Queen cells, You have Drones to mate a virgin Queen. I enjoyed your video and subscribed Good job
Thanks for that feedback. It will be interesting to see what that hive does over the next few weeks. I will probably take another peek this weekend.
I was thinking along the same lines. I would guess that they will try to supersede again with that same queen.
@@hermitholllerhomestead2080 I will keep you posted!
@daisyshoney6021 I thought I would give you an update and shout out on this comment. I checked today, and indeed there were three more cells, one of which was capped. So I left all three of those cells in the hive, and pulled the old queen off into a new nuc. Lots of capped brood around those cells to get her through mating hopefully.
@@chuckshoneybees Great, 2 for 1 Good job
@8:15 I think you should have mentioned at this point that the empty frame on right next to the honey should be drawn comb and not foundation unless that honey frame is capped. I had to do a lot of surgery on a beehive because I did that with foundation next to uncapped honey. They way over draw the honey frame and I had to pull a couple frames and cut them down.
I agree with you. I do all of this live without a script .. in retrospect there are always things I wish I had said.
Thanks for the helpful video, good to see you working in the apiary 🙂
When I checked my colonies last week I had several with what I believe to be a excessive amount of honey frames. I didn't spot any brood at all. I'm in Central Arkansas and I'm running 8 frame brood boxes.
All my family is in central Arkansas. We might be related! If you have excessive amounts of honey frames you have a couple options.
Extract them for honey to eat or sell.
Or put them out in a front or out yard to be eaten as open feeding. When the robbing is done.. you now have drawn comb to give back to the queen.
Just some options for you.
C
Good video as always. My climate is way different from yours but the basics are the same. With all the drone brood, I heard no mention of mites which is great. Do you leave the strips in all year?
I cycle the strips in and out as they age. But I am always managing mites. Checks are important for me to determine if a new one goes in.
That was a great video for most of us here. I need to do that exact thing to my hives. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing , great video.
Thank you for the comment
The last box did not seem to have a full number of frames. The bees won't build "wonky" comb in the empty space? Thank you for the video; very informative.
They can build wonky comb if they don't have structure on either side of them as guides. the most important thing right now is for them to have space. Very observant of you :)
To answer your question Zelma he used something called a divider board to create dead space that they aren't allowed to enter. The bees flying around that he trapped in there will die. Beekeepers sometimes compress their boxes under the guess that bees will make comb quicker under tighter conditions. It's not proven and there's no logic to it it's counterintuitive but that's what alot of beekeepers do.
I did use a divider board to push up agains the last frame of comb/foundation, but that divider board does not go all the way to the bottom, no bees will die or were trapped. It is just a technique to keep the bees drawing straight comb and to not draw comb on the inner cover.@@iditarod4081
The divider board keeps the bees from building wonky comb. All the divider board is, is a flat board about the same height as a frame, that has dog ears to sit on the frame shelf. Nice to have this time of year.
@@chuckshoneybees cool thanks I think I'll make one I didn't know it left a gap at the bottom
Do you shake the two frame of brood before you move them to a wicker hive
No I usually leave the bees on the frames when splitting if that is what you are asking.
what do you use for mite treatment? I am new and in your area, i was told they are a big issue around here.
I use extended release Oxalic acid. I have a video on this exact subject. Check it out!
@@chuckshoneybees thank you I will look it up and I subscribed to your channel, thank you for all you do.
You can move brood covered with bees into another hive? The bees won't fight?
Yes you can do that, Commercial guys do it all day long. Generally its the brood that keeps them from fighting too much. There may be some fighting, but overall it is a good way to add resources to a hive.
When will your bees start drawing foundation?
They have been drawing foundation with 1:1 sugar feeding since early January.
Thanks Chuck, I fed 1:1 in the fall and they have 30+ lbs in fresh drawn comb. Will that 1:1 be used up before they get into last summers honey? Do they cap 1:1? @@chuckshoneybees
I don't have any extra frames with drawn-out comb...😢 First year beekeeper
This is the biggest barrier a new beekeeper has to cross. Foundation can work, but you need to provide 1:1 syrup so they can draw it out. Year 2-3 is the critical path for beekeepers .. because of the need of drawn comb.
Keep the faith
@chuckshoneybees Thank you ...I have been feeding them 1 to 1... They are slowly drawing out the frames..I am in Sarasota County...
We are almost neighbors, but you have a few more degrees advantage on extreme low temperatures.
@@chuckshoneybees correct zone 10
Great info
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Chuck do you ever have a problem with the bee's fighting when you swap the frames over? I tried this last year with one of my small hives and ended up with a lot of dead bee's. It took the small hive even longer to recover.
Not significant enough to worry about. Commercial beekeepers do it all day long.