@@engineer3dprints It was impossible to choose between 3 of the swatches on the 2nd Calibration. I just picked the middle of them and called it a day. They all looked/sounded too similar.
I just got a P1S printer and have been using it daily for a week for prototype utility stuff. Now that I started printing something I wanted to look nice, I started noticing the stuff that looks off. I had no idea that the Calibration tab in Bambu studio is used for the filament settings. I've been trying to manually change settings and test over and over and over. Thank You.
Slowing down the outer wall to 60 made a huge difference! Thanks. Also doing the Flow Dynamics Calibrations but not sure what difference it is making. thanks!
Also, run a temperature tower BEFORE doing the calibrations you mentioned. The thermistors have an accuracy that isn't very tight from my observations, so they can be off by a couple of degrees. I found the default temperature for BL filaments is not the best setting for my particular printer. I run a couple degrees cooler than the default value.
I have a sponge that i used to clean my other print beds with, that had a but of gluestick on it. When i spray Isopropyl alcohol on them and wipe with the sponge, there is just a very thin layer of glue left, minimal. Now i use the sponge on the P1S, before every 5th print i just spray the build plate, wipe with the sponge and its clean, with a super small Film of glue (i think 🤔) at least feels like it. Have never had an bed adhesion problems on my P1S so far 😊
I eventually figured out that I needed to "Tram" {manually bed level) my machine. Doing that, atop what you've outline here has me printing beautifully at Ludacris speeds. Very satisfying.
I don't own a Bambu. I have several Creality and 2 Voron printers. I found your video very well thought out and pleasantly quick and to the point without any unnecessary time wasting tom foolery that drives me crazy at times. Also - I think this video would be very useful and fully compatible with many more printers than just the P1S. You might consider changing the title and opening this up to a much wider audience. However - I don't think I've owned a printer that didn't produce a better result than your final product on that Benchy. I find myself wondering if maybe something might be loose on your printer or maybe you would benefit from slowing down even just a little some of the other print moves. I also wonder if you printed a temp tower? It could be that you're just a little too hot. Please take this comment in the context it was intended. Just trying to be helpful. I'm not a Bambu hater and possibly may own one someday. I've seen some amazing results from those printers. Happy Printing and looking forward to Part 2. 😉
Thanks for the comment :) I agree with the title change, this should be applicable to all Bambu printers. I think the print quality was simply due to trying to optimize my 0.6mm nozzle and 0.36mm layer height - check out my latest video showing very good quality. I will have to make a part 2!
im a total beginner and i only have my printer 3 weeks... but my first print out of the box benchy looks way better than your AFTER... also i learned orca slicer is alot better for filament calibration... it lets u test max volumetric flow and temp tower too... sure u can do in bambu too if u got the file but orca has it build in...
Doing this did help some. I was very disappointed at the print quality of mine compared to my old mk3s+ using default settings. Though I do print primarily in petg. I've also turned down volumetric speed, and all the print speeds to about half of the standard settings. Alot of tuning and tweaking. I believe the update did help the vertical fine artifacts, as it was pretty bad before the update.
The more I research, the more I see this is way overpriced and requires just as much tweaking and fixing as any $150 ender. At least with the ender, you can literally buy 8 for the same price, so with 8 enders, I can have 8 different colors going at the same time and 8 parts printing at slower, higher quality speeds. I'm really struggling to see the hype justified.
@@johnlocke3481 your research would seem to fly in the face of everyone else's evidence. It's a perfect straight out of the box as any printer has ever been.
It may just be me, but my out of the box prints were flawless. I am not sure what I could do to change things to make it better. How do your benchies look so bad. Even the better quality one. Not trying to be harsh, just not understanding how it is so bad?
Keep in mind I am using a larger 0.6mm nozzle and printing at 0.36mm layer height.. I’m really pushing things here, this setup is not supposed to print fine detail well.
My P1S printed great out of the box too. The purpose of this video is to show how you can improve your print quality, my specific setup/results should be irrelevant. I could have shown a “high quality” out of the box print but that wouldn’t really prove anything.
@@engineer3dprints but did you actually improve anything? the initial print was terrible- so anything would be an improvement from there. not trying to be offensive, but if you're starting with crap, and ending up with a bit better crap, that's not really something worth advertising. My first print was the benchie on the SD card, and it was flawless. If that print looked like your initial print, I would have returned the printer straight away.
Thanks for the video, really helpful as a prospective user to see how the calibration processes work. We know the X1C is supposed to accomplish this with LiDAR, but nowhere else have I seen how the pressure advance and flow would be calibrated for the P1P/P1S. Two things, I notice at 4:08 you’re using a print preset in the slicer intended for the X1C - maybe a mistake? The other thing - the calibrated result at 5:10 still shows a repeating pattern of corner glitches (on the left rear of the Benchy cabin) - I realise the Z seam is probably there but I just wondered if you’ve solved that repeating pattern as Z increases; as that seems the biggest remaining quality concern to me - could perhaps create weakness in structural prints or difficult part fitting. I shall watch your later video now :) Thanks
Thanks for the detailed comment. I believe the X1C preset is the same as P1S. Aligning the seam and slowing down outer layer speed should fix those Z issues
Excellent video! I'm running this test now and the quality of the area where the number is printed for each block has significant quality differences between them, more so than the test block itself (e3d 0.6 nozzle). Should the quality of the number and the small area around them be taken into consideration for this test as well when the rest of the blocks are all very close in quality otherwise?
1.05 firmware has a number of bugs being reported on the forum. I'd wait. The 1.05.01 has an issue with seams when noise cancellation is on that's being reported by numerous people. I'm holding off for another release.
Did your quality drop when moving from .4mm to .6mm? Will you bounce back and forth between the .4 and .6mm? Also if you did this for the Hardened steel hotend, are you going to post a video of swapping for the hardened steel extruder wheel also?
Quality did drop, but performing the steps in this video definitely helped. I will still use the 0.4 nozzle if I need more detail. Also I did purchase a hardened steel extruder gear, and will eventually be posting a video on that installation :)
I couldn't help but notice that your print quality still isn't quite there, even after calibration. I bought a P1S yesterday, and it did an excellent job right out of the box with default settings, no calibration needed. The difference is pretty noticeable. Maybe it's a filament, I used Bambu PLA white.
Absolutely agree, that result looks rough around the cabin (I think where the Z-seam is; not every layer but some distortion every few layers, maybe a result of massive smoothing from input shaping). I notice also another hallmark I’ve seen in other Bambu Lab prints, ridges in line with the portals on the bow. I’m getting a P1S as well. Hope it prints better than this
Ahh… just saw the other comments and replies - 0.6 nozzle :) I suspect it’s the pressure advance still incorrect, but why it changes every few layers is probably the relevant question. Maybe temperature is changing/PID needs retuning? Or an extruder fault?
@@engineer3dprints Thnaks! No matter what I tried I didn't have success of a complete grid. I even changed out my nozzle. Perhaps premature. I've only had my machine for 3 days. I'm in process of drying the filament in a dehydrator. Thanks for the reply!
Do you need to calibrate for every filament type that you will use ? So a calibration file for PLA, PLA+, ABS etc? And another set of calibrations per brand - Bambu, eSun etc?
@@engineer3dprints even though it is the same brand? I just did a test for a new brand i just purchased and did it for black, i was thinking of using the same preset for the same brand but different colors
Hmmm. I watched this video a month ago and decided recently to try out Flashforge 5M non pro printer with COR XY and touch screen. My benchies out of the box look much better than these and for only $300. I always wanted a Bambu X1C, but after the issues my good friend is having with it. Plus the price was a personal factor. We’ve compared our benchies along with other prints and my cheapo Flashforge looks better. I don’t know why that is out of the box.
I find alcohol just spreads oils from your fingers and such around. I've had numerous occasions where even 91% iso would not fix my adhesion issues but a quick trip to the sink with some Dawn dish soap and hot water cured the problem immediately. I almost don't even bother with alcohol anymore.
Been thinking about getting of these printers but after watching this video I'm wondering, if you have to do filament calibrations of the specific OEM Bambu Lab filaments, does this mean that attempting to print with other makes of filament is much harder of out of the question to do? So far I love all of the features of these Bambu 3D printers but if printing with other name brand filaments is this much of a hassle it may be a deal breaker.
I'm using an A1 with Elegoo PLA+ (tough PLA) and haven't had any issues like this at all, so I wouldn't worry about using other brands of filament. I haven't had to calibrate it at all. The only thing I did was tell the printer to treat it like Bambu PLA Tough on the filament drop-down.
Do you need to do this for all 4 AMS filaments or once you dial in one (and all of the filaments are the same type/brand) you can apply that profile to the other 3 filaments? I would imagine if you're mixing brands / types then you might want to do it for each since not all PLA/PLA+/etc are the same between companies..
It depends more on the color combinations than the brands. For example going from black -> white requires much more purge than going from white -> black
I almost wanted to buy a P1S as a replacement for my old Anycubic I3 Mega S, but the quality of the calibrated benchy really disappointed me. I mean, my i3 takes double the time but the quality is far better?
Keep in mind, I am using a 0.6mm nozzle with a very thick layer height. The P1S prints amazingly out of the box, but after making some hardware changes you may need to make some adjustments.
i have a print dimension issue. I’m trying to print a round part that’s 2.0 inch diameter 1 inch tall. . The part is coming out 2.000 on one side and if i check a different spot (180) it’s at 1.990 ( .010 difference) out of round. How can i get this dimensions closer to 2.0 inches diameter? I have default settings pla P1S
Yup, I was thinking perhaps I need thorium added to my dishwashing liquid :D Makes a nice change to hear voices from other parts of the world. I like the oater layers too, especially in my breakfast cereal
4:06 u did not chose the calibrated filament profile you just made sir. in order for the printer to use the newly calibrated value for extrusion you need to save it, since the system does not allow you to overwrite the system profiles it forces you to save at something else. hence the "calibrated" added after the filament name. since you now have a new filament profile it does not have the same kfactor either. afaik the system uses the default values from the parent profile. so you would need to run a manual calibration again. wait for it to start up and then stop it, click next and just add the kfactor value manually for the new made calibrated profile. then remember to select it in the slicer for it to take effect :) happy printing.
Can I just do this with single filament as I dont have an AMS. And BTW, that benchy looks terrible. Mine looks way better straight out of the box. Why do you say that it looks good? That to me is not a good benchy at all, especially coming from a Prusa. I miss my Prusa's. For quality that is and not speed. 🙂
4:03 One thing to further improve your prints: Change the Bed Type to "Smooth PEI Plate" - This is the correct setting for the golden plate you are using! The "Textureds PEI Plate" option is for the black PEI bambu is using with P1P and applies a -0,04 parameter to your Z axis, creating the noticable elephants foot on your bency (squished bottom)
Keep in mind I am using a larger 0.6mm nozzle and printing at 0.36mm layer height.. I’m really pushing things here, this setup is not supposed to print fine detail well. I am using a fresh roll of Bambu PLA and the quality definitely increased.
The purpose of this video is to show how you can improve your print quality. My print quality greatly improved even with my larger nozzle/layer setup, however my setup/results should be irrelevant - this will help you improve quality regardless of your setup. I could have shown a “high quality” out of the box print but that wouldn’t really prove anything.
+1 for drying, in looking for new filament sources, I’m seeing people commenting that even NEW reels presumably well-packed are not dry, and improve a lot after drying, even from some big name suppliers.
@2:01 the stock .02 setting was more consistent than .019. The latter has a little gap close to your pen tip. The improved benchy looks worse than a $150 stock ender 3. I wonder what the issue is. I really want to buy into the hype of these printers, but when I actually look at the prints people are getting, I'm very unimpressed.
I was watching this video and I do find it pretty pointless... you are printing at 0.6 in this video, and 0.36 high, I don't think you are normally printing at these settings, at this numbers the prints are horrible regardless... you shoudl show at default settings, the ones you have at day1, before and after the update
Thorough video, however that benchy is still TERRIBLE!!! It appears you need to manually relevel your bed to keep the Z- axis from fighting itself and very likely improving your quality much more
@@StephenAldama good for you that means you’re single anecdotal evidence must mean that every single thing they’ve ever printed has been an amazing quality machine without issues. I’m glad that now I know that.
@@engineer3dprints you are correct mine is as well however most places will edit anybody saying that their machines have problems so you never actually hear about the people talking about how they’re difficult at times to use unfortunately, there’s a lot of scrubbing going on on the Internet getting rid of actual information
Check out this video showing AMAZING print quality on my P1S: ua-cam.com/video/z6u_gWQ7b_I/v-deo.html
A fully informative video without the filler. Very thorough, very appreciated.
I appreciate the comment
@@engineer3dprints It was impossible to choose between 3 of the swatches on the 2nd Calibration. I just picked the middle of them and called it a day. They all looked/sounded too similar.
I just got a P1S printer and have been using it daily for a week for prototype utility stuff. Now that I started printing something I wanted to look nice, I started noticing the stuff that looks off. I had no idea that the Calibration tab in Bambu studio is used for the filament settings. I've been trying to manually change settings and test over and over and over. Thank You.
Good luck!
Just got a shipment notification for my P1S... Good timing. Thank you for this
LOL me too!!
Thats awesome, enjoy 👌
Slowing down the outer wall to 60 made a huge difference! Thanks. Also doing the Flow Dynamics Calibrations but not sure what difference it is making. thanks!
Glad it helped!
Awesome video. No lifestyle vlog, straight to the point, valuable information. Much appreciated!
That’s how we do it on this channel :)
Also, run a temperature tower BEFORE doing the calibrations you mentioned. The thermistors have an accuracy that isn't very tight from my observations, so they can be off by a couple of degrees. I found the default temperature for BL filaments is not the best setting for my particular printer. I run a couple degrees cooler than the default value.
I have a sponge that i used to clean my other print beds with, that had a but of gluestick on it. When i spray Isopropyl alcohol on them and wipe with the sponge, there is just a very thin layer of glue left, minimal.
Now i use the sponge on the P1S, before every 5th print i just spray the build plate, wipe with the sponge and its clean, with a super small Film of glue (i think 🤔) at least feels like it. Have never had an bed adhesion problems on my P1S so far 😊
I eventually figured out that I needed to "Tram" {manually bed level) my machine. Doing that, atop what you've outline here has me printing beautifully at Ludacris speeds. Very satisfying.
Good to hear!
This was actually very helpful thank you!
No problem!
I don't own a Bambu. I have several Creality and 2 Voron printers. I found your video very well thought out and pleasantly quick and to the point without any unnecessary time wasting tom foolery that drives me crazy at times. Also - I think this video would be very useful and fully compatible with many more printers than just the P1S. You might consider changing the title and opening this up to a much wider audience. However - I don't think I've owned a printer that didn't produce a better result than your final product on that Benchy. I find myself wondering if maybe something might be loose on your printer or maybe you would benefit from slowing down even just a little some of the other print moves. I also wonder if you printed a temp tower? It could be that you're just a little too hot. Please take this comment in the context it was intended. Just trying to be helpful. I'm not a Bambu hater and possibly may own one someday. I've seen some amazing results from those printers. Happy Printing and looking forward to Part 2. 😉
Thanks for the comment :) I agree with the title change, this should be applicable to all Bambu printers.
I think the print quality was simply due to trying to optimize my 0.6mm nozzle and 0.36mm layer height - check out my latest video showing very good quality. I will have to make a part 2!
im a total beginner and i only have my printer 3 weeks... but my first print out of the box benchy looks way better than your AFTER... also i learned orca slicer is alot better for filament calibration... it lets u test max volumetric flow and temp tower too... sure u can do in bambu too if u got the file but orca has it build in...
I was printing at 0.36mm layer height here - Check out my latest video showing very good quality.
Doing this did help some. I was very disappointed at the print quality of mine compared to my old mk3s+ using default settings. Though I do print primarily in petg. I've also turned down volumetric speed, and all the print speeds to about half of the standard settings. Alot of tuning and tweaking. I believe the update did help the vertical fine artifacts, as it was pretty bad before the update.
Very true, there are always improvements to be made. Thanks for the comment.
The more I research, the more I see this is way overpriced and requires just as much tweaking and fixing as any $150 ender. At least with the ender, you can literally buy 8 for the same price, so with 8 enders, I can have 8 different colors going at the same time and 8 parts printing at slower, higher quality speeds. I'm really struggling to see the hype justified.
@@johnlocke3481 your research would seem to fly in the face of everyone else's evidence. It's a perfect straight out of the box as any printer has ever been.
It may just be me, but my out of the box prints were flawless. I am not sure what I could do to change things to make it better. How do your benchies look so bad. Even the better quality one. Not trying to be harsh, just not understanding how it is so bad?
Keep in mind I am using a larger 0.6mm nozzle and printing at 0.36mm layer height.. I’m really pushing things here, this setup is not supposed to print fine detail well.
I agree. Both of these benches look terrible. My P1S prints out of the box look way better.
My P1S printed great out of the box too. The purpose of this video is to show how you can improve your print quality, my specific setup/results should be irrelevant.
I could have shown a “high quality” out of the box print but that wouldn’t really prove anything.
@@engineer3dprints but did you actually improve anything? the initial print was terrible- so anything would be an improvement from there. not trying to be offensive, but if you're starting with crap, and ending up with a bit better crap, that's not really something worth advertising.
My first print was the benchie on the SD card, and it was flawless. If that print looked like your initial print, I would have returned the printer straight away.
My first print from the SD card was flawless too. Ill be sure to use a smaller nozzle/layer height for future videos when discussing quality.
Thanks for the video, really helpful as a prospective user to see how the calibration processes work. We know the X1C is supposed to accomplish this with LiDAR, but nowhere else have I seen how the pressure advance and flow would be calibrated for the P1P/P1S.
Two things, I notice at 4:08 you’re using a print preset in the slicer intended for the X1C - maybe a mistake?
The other thing - the calibrated result at 5:10 still shows a repeating pattern of corner glitches (on the left rear of the Benchy cabin) - I realise the Z seam is probably there but I just wondered if you’ve solved that repeating pattern as Z increases; as that seems the biggest remaining quality concern to me - could perhaps create weakness in structural prints or difficult part fitting.
I shall watch your later video now :)
Thanks
Thanks for the detailed comment. I believe the X1C preset is the same as P1S.
Aligning the seam and slowing down outer layer speed should fix those Z issues
Thank you for this video, it’s well explained! One question please : how do you do this kind of timelapse please? My P1S camera can’t do that… Thanks!
This was shot with the stock P1S camera. I just cropped the video a bit and sped it up. Is that what you mean?
@@engineer3dprints yes, thanks! The video quality is great compared to my P1S… Light is better too ! 👍🏻
you tripped me up saying that outer layer I was like THE HELL!? lol Love the video good stuff man!
😂
I will have to make a joke about this at some point
Thank you , very good video. Nobody told me this.
Happy to help!
Great video. Straight to the point. Thank you!
Thanks for watching
Excellent video! I'm running this test now and the quality of the area where the number is printed for each block has significant quality differences between them, more so than the test block itself (e3d 0.6 nozzle). Should the quality of the number and the small area around them be taken into consideration for this test as well when the rest of the blocks are all very close in quality otherwise?
Yeah I’d factor in the quality of the numbers as well
Ya dun goofed not using the default hotend, everyone gonna tell you your prints look bad without realizing its not the 0.4
1.05 firmware has a number of bugs being reported on the forum. I'd wait. The 1.05.01 has an issue with seams when noise cancellation is on that's being reported by numerous people. I'm holding off for another release.
Did your quality drop when moving from .4mm to .6mm? Will you bounce back and forth between the .4 and .6mm? Also if you did this for the Hardened steel hotend, are you going to post a video of swapping for the hardened steel extruder wheel also?
Quality did drop, but performing the steps in this video definitely helped.
I will still use the 0.4 nozzle if I need more detail.
Also I did purchase a hardened steel extruder gear, and will eventually be posting a video on that installation :)
I couldn't help but notice that your print quality still isn't quite there, even after calibration. I bought a P1S yesterday, and it did an excellent job right out of the box with default settings, no calibration needed. The difference is pretty noticeable. Maybe it's a filament, I used Bambu PLA white.
Absolutely agree, that result looks rough around the cabin (I think where the Z-seam is; not every layer but some distortion every few layers, maybe a result of massive smoothing from input shaping). I notice also another hallmark I’ve seen in other Bambu Lab prints, ridges in line with the portals on the bow.
I’m getting a P1S as well. Hope it prints better than this
Ahh… just saw the other comments and replies - 0.6 nozzle :)
I suspect it’s the pressure advance still incorrect, but why it changes every few layers is probably the relevant question. Maybe temperature is changing/PID needs retuning? Or an extruder fault?
Happy Sunday!! Thanks for the vid. I will be calibrating this am. What plate adhesive did you use, if any in performing the calibration grid @ 2:14?
I don’t use any adhesive, just printing directly on the Textured PEI plate
@@engineer3dprints Thnaks! No matter what I tried I didn't have success of a complete grid. I even changed out my nozzle. Perhaps premature. I've only had my machine for 3 days. I'm in process of drying the filament in a dehydrator. Thanks for the reply!
I use texture PEI as well. 215 to 220. bed heat at 60 first layer then 55
Do you need to calibrate for every filament type that you will use ? So a calibration file for PLA, PLA+, ABS etc? And another set of calibrations per brand - Bambu, eSun etc?
I have the same question for this
Yes ideally you would calibrate for each filament type and brand
@@engineer3dprints even though it is the same brand? I just did a test for a new brand i just purchased and did it for black, i was thinking of using the same preset for the same brand but different colors
My apologies, I thought this comment was on one of my other videos. Different colours of the same brand/type shouldn’t matter
Hmmm. I watched this video a month ago and decided recently to try out Flashforge 5M non pro printer with COR XY and touch screen. My benchies out of the box look much better than these and for only $300.
I always wanted a Bambu X1C, but after the issues my good friend is having with it. Plus the price was a personal factor. We’ve compared our benchies along with other prints and my cheapo Flashforge looks better. I don’t know why that is out of the box.
Nice video, getting my p1s soon and this is quite informative.
Glad it helped!
You can clean your build plate with isopropyl alcohol as it cleans grease or any residue and evaporates as it dries.
You are correct 👍
IPA is overkill. But it does no harm either.
I find alcohol just spreads oils from your fingers and such around. I've had numerous occasions where even 91% iso would not fix my adhesion issues but a quick trip to the sink with some Dawn dish soap and hot water cured the problem immediately. I almost don't even bother with alcohol anymore.
Did the flow dynamics thing and saved the value with the best line. But the value in the AMS did not update.
🤔
Been thinking about getting of these printers but after watching this video I'm wondering, if you have to do filament calibrations of the specific OEM Bambu Lab filaments, does this mean that attempting to print with other makes of filament is much harder of out of the question to do?
So far I love all of the features of these Bambu 3D printers but if printing with other name brand filaments is this much of a hassle it may be a deal breaker.
This video is more for people having issues. I’ve been printing amazing quality prints with generic PLA. Stay tuned for my next video in 1-2 days.
I'm using an A1 with Elegoo PLA+ (tough PLA) and haven't had any issues like this at all, so I wouldn't worry about using other brands of filament. I haven't had to calibrate it at all. The only thing I did was tell the printer to treat it like Bambu PLA Tough on the filament drop-down.
Do you need to do this for all 4 AMS filaments or once you dial in one (and all of the filaments are the same type/brand) you can apply that profile to the other 3 filaments? I would imagine if you're mixing brands / types then you might want to do it for each since not all PLA/PLA+/etc are the same between companies..
It depends more on the color combinations than the brands. For example going from black -> white requires much more purge than going from white -> black
Do you need to do the calibration for each color if I got an AMS ?
I almost wanted to buy a P1S as a replacement for my old Anycubic I3 Mega S, but the quality of the calibrated benchy really disappointed me. I mean, my i3 takes double the time but the quality is far better?
Remember I am using a large nozzle and large layer height in this video. With the stock setup the print quality is very good, similar to an I3 Mega
great video explaining perfectly what it says in the title........ I don't know what the benchy quality control police are doing here
Thank you!
So you have to do that for every color?
Ideally you would do it for every filament brand/type
OK, then I was probably lucky, my P1S is standard, after small adjustments for the filament everything works great and my print quality is perfect!😅😊
Keep in mind, I am using a 0.6mm nozzle with a very thick layer height. The P1S prints amazingly out of the box, but after making some hardware changes you may need to make some adjustments.
Do you have to that every time or it safes so you don’t have to do it ever again?
It saves, you might just want to do it for each filament brand you have
i have a print dimension issue. I’m trying to print a round part that’s 2.0 inch diameter 1 inch tall. . The part is coming out 2.000 on one side and if i check a different spot (180) it’s at 1.990 ( .010 difference) out of round. How can i get this dimensions closer to 2.0 inches diameter? I have default settings pla P1S
Honestly, I’m not sure but please post the solution here if you find one!
Oater layer? Canadian?
How’d you know ;)
Good to know, cheers!
🍻
The odor layer?
Canada eh
There is literally spaghetti in the drain when he is washing the plate. 😂
🫣
This needs done for every filament?
It doesn’t NEED to be done for every filament, but if you’re having quality issues, it will definitely help
Liked the video. My Benchy came out looking like your 2nd straight from the box... hmmm.
Remember I’m using a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.36mm layer height. Quality is going to be impacted
Does this work for any printer also or is this just a bambu thing?
The calibrations are a Bambu thing but the print settings may be applicable for other printers / slicers
"Thor-rilly clean..." whahahaha
Yup, I was thinking perhaps I need thorium added to my dishwashing liquid :D
Makes a nice change to hear voices from other parts of the world. I like the oater layers too, especially in my breakfast cereal
Nothing gets past you guys eh
Good video
Thanks!
the filament clibartion do i need that for the a1 because of its inbuild flow calibartion?
You shouldnt have to
I didn't even calibrate after the update and my benchy doesn't look that bad
I am using a 0.6mm nozzle with a very thick layer height
I just realized I wasnt the only one typing it, sorry for bothering you. @@engineer3dprints
4:06 u did not chose the calibrated filament profile you just made sir. in order for the printer to use the newly calibrated value for extrusion you need to save it, since the system does not allow you to overwrite the system profiles it forces you to save at something else. hence the "calibrated" added after the filament name. since you now have a new filament profile it does not have the same kfactor either. afaik the system uses the default values from the parent profile. so you would need to run a manual calibration again. wait for it to start up and then stop it, click next and just add the kfactor value manually for the new made calibrated profile.
then remember to select it in the slicer for it to take effect :)
happy printing.
Can I just do this with single filament as I dont have an AMS. And BTW, that benchy looks terrible. Mine looks way better straight out of the box. Why do you say that it looks good? That to me is not a good benchy at all, especially coming from a Prusa. I miss my Prusa's. For quality that is and not speed. 🙂
Stay tuned for my next video with amazing print quality
4:03 One thing to further improve your prints: Change the Bed Type to "Smooth PEI Plate" - This is the correct setting for the golden plate you are using!
The "Textureds PEI Plate" option is for the black PEI bambu is using with P1P and applies a -0,04 parameter to your Z axis, creating the noticable elephants foot on your bency (squished bottom)
no idea bambu had this bad quality thats suprising hopefully my upgrade from elegoo isnt this bad
Quality is great with the stock 0.4mm nozzle
what's an odor layer?
Canadian eh
2x speed is niice
🚀
Did not see any quality increasing, your benchy is still horrible. Maybe need to dry filament or replace nozzle
Keep in mind I am using a larger 0.6mm nozzle and printing at 0.36mm layer height.. I’m really pushing things here, this setup is not supposed to print fine detail well.
I am using a fresh roll of Bambu PLA and the quality definitely increased.
@@engineer3dprintswhy bother posting a video with mediocre results? Saying “this setup isn’t supposed to give good results” isn’t terribly reassuring.
The purpose of this video is to show how you can improve your print quality. My print quality greatly improved even with my larger nozzle/layer setup, however my setup/results should be irrelevant - this will help you improve quality regardless of your setup.
I could have shown a “high quality” out of the box print but that wouldn’t really prove anything.
+1 for drying, in looking for new filament sources, I’m seeing people commenting that even NEW reels presumably well-packed are not dry, and improve a lot after drying, even from some big name suppliers.
@2:01 the stock .02 setting was more consistent than .019. The latter has a little gap close to your pen tip.
The improved benchy looks worse than a $150 stock ender 3. I wonder what the issue is. I really want to buy into the hype of these printers, but when I actually look at the prints people are getting, I'm very unimpressed.
He's doing a 0.6 nozzle and a 0.36 layer height. It's quite impressive for those conditions.
Odor layers? Dude must be Canadian
You know it
That benchy still looks horrid there are massive lines everywhere
(No hate)
That’s because I am using a 0.6mm nozzle with 0.36mm layer height
My virgin benchy out the box looked better than this. Just got a P1S 2 weeks ago.
Yes, you will get better quality with the stock 0.4mm nozzle than my 0.6mm nozzle with 0.36mm layer height.
I was watching this video and I do find it pretty pointless... you are printing at 0.6 in this video, and 0.36 high, I don't think you are normally printing at these settings, at this numbers the prints are horrible regardless... you shoudl show at default settings, the ones you have at day1, before and after the update
I just did this to show the contrast in the quality improvements you can make. With the stock setup the differences are harder to see
Your final print still looks horrible
Beauty is on the inside
sorry mate thats a horrible benchy
must be the green
It was from my 0.36mm layer height. Check out my latest video for much better quality
Thorough video, however that benchy is still TERRIBLE!!! It appears you need to manually relevel your bed to keep the Z- axis from fighting itself and very likely improving your quality much more
Thanks for the feedback.
P1s is trash, 80percent of prints fail even after constant tweaking to find the problem.
I don't have this issue at all...
@@StephenAldama good for you that means you’re single anecdotal evidence must mean that every single thing they’ve ever printed has been an amazing quality machine without issues. I’m glad that now I know that.
@@believingintheblood8540 sad man
@believingintheblood8540 Can you shared your source for “80% of prints fail” or is that based on your anecdotal evidence as well?
@@engineer3dprints you are correct mine is as well however most places will edit anybody saying that their machines have problems so you never actually hear about the people talking about how they’re difficult at times to use unfortunately, there’s a lot of scrubbing going on on the Internet getting rid of actual information