Never to old to learn, thanks so very much, never thought of clamping a part to the ways on the lathe, and love the red paint on the old Atlas lathe, it's a 101 correct, like 4 more, I have plenty of them. Was going to make a drive wheel for my belt sander 5", but the material is more expensive than the already made wheel, 3/16" key way and all,,, 👍👍👍👍👍👍
I'll be honest, i didn't have much faith in the first minute but i stuck around and i'm so happy i did. That was an amazing technique that I've never seen or heard of and i can't wait to go use it myself. new sub here!
I forgot all about this method. Thank you! Ironically my machine was once a tracer lathe. But when I bought it the tracer had been removed. Oh well. So the poor man's tracer technique is still pretty good.
Es un placer poder tener estos videos,gracias por compartir su maestria siempre es bueno recordar, las clases de cuando estaba en mi formacion,un cordial saludo desde España.
Thank you for such a clear and concise demonstration. I've been wondering for a while now how this was done in the olden times. Please do keep up the good work with these excellent videos of yours!
Merci Marc. OK, now I have run out of French. But I liked your technique and appreciate that you did this with an Atlas lathe. They are better than people believe.
Your expression of "proud ownership" was hilarious. Not sure if that was true Canadian pride, true Canadian sarcasm or perhaps they are one in the same. Thanks for the tip, Marc. Yet another thumbs up from me...
Hi Adam! You have to check the sing in the background when I say that I will be the proud owner ... You will then know if it is pride or sarcasm. Thanks for watching and be safe, Marc
Better than leaving stock on the sides to center the crown is to leave stock on the OD. Blue the OD and cut the profile at a diameter that just leaves a little blue. The blue mark is the apex, so measure that to both sides and adjust the tool, or template accordingly before the final cuts. In this demo the indicator was attached to the compound, so that could be used to shift the tool relative to the template.
Awesome technique Marc! I'm going to put that to use this weekend to make a small domed pressure plate I need to make. That will save me having to build a ball turning jig first. Thanks very much for this! :)
Thanks for making this video. I am new to machining, and building a kit which is designed to use a flat belt. Was wondering how to put the crown into the pulley.
Hello all, crowned pulleys are used extensively throughout the printing industry for flat belt product contact delivery. This method is one I like, thanx.
Great video, very informative. Very good quality camera work. It's very nice of you to share your vast amount of machining knowledge with all of us. I always look forward to your videos. Thank you. Dan
Many thanks for showing this Marc. Have you a video where you talk about your lathe tool holder? I have an old Southbend lathe but not happy with the original tool holder. I'd like to build a tool holder similar to yours.
Just a couple of comments. About 60 years ago I started my machinist career on a 12 in Craftsman lathe which was made by Atlas . It is good to see cutting tools made from HSS. It seems that with the advent of inserts ( I use them a lot) the skills of off hand grinding is being lost.
That is a great technique and I will try to remember it. You and I have basically the same lathe although mine is Craftsman and the drive is underneath. So I suspect that we have the same 3 jaw chuck. My chuck is .003" off center when the jaws are nice and tight. Your chuck looked like it was dead on. If it really is how did you do that? Thanks for the great video.
I had an Atlas just like yours(mine was green though)but I sold it for an import that had a larger spindle bore. Sure wish I had kept it.It was a good machine. Didn't really like the flat ways but was still a good machine. Like the impromptu tracer setup........
Cool! I am very interested to see how you do this. I make crowned pulleys for my model conveyor systems. Ill post a link in a second comment, i guess you will have to approve it if you want it to be visible. Thanks for another video! Jim
Excellent video Marc, thank you. Would you mind explaining how you would accurately determine how much to surface off the sides of the pulley to ensure the high spot of the crown was in the center?
How cool is that? A lathe tracing "mechanism" where the servo function is done by the operator's eyes and hands. It give me great joy to see an actual radiused crown rather than the double angle (flat triangle) approximation I have seen used by several other UA-cam machinists, including some creators whom I otherwise respect. A question: is there any guidance on how high the center should be for different diameters and widths of pulleys? ======= Note for the perplexed ========== If you have the width and the difference between the edge radius and the center radius (or most combinations of dimensions), you can calculate the radius of the template needed to make such a crown. Hint: google [ circle segment calculator ].
Interesting approach to an interesting problem. I personally would have used a mandrel to ensure I didn't waste the boss material. There is always a different way to skin a cat. Thumbs up. Nice work. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Very instructive video, as all of yours are. I do not know what is the principle that causes the belts to self-center on concave rollers. Is there a Rule of Thumb regarding the radius of curvature on the roller relative to the width of the belt?
Hi Jorge! The crowned surface of the pulley turns at the same speed (RPM) all over. However the edges of the crowned surface turn slower than its center (surface feet per minute). It is that difference in speed that makes the belt track on center. In other words the edges are trying to catch up to the center and if the edges are not at the same speed, the one closest to center drags the other one closer to center since both edges want to have the same speed (SFM). I do not know what the rule of thumb is for the amount of crown but I can say that the friction caused by the difference in speed between the edges and the center will increase proportionally to the amount of crown. A pronounced crown will wear the belt faster. I hope this helps? Marc
Hi, nice idea that I will use in the future, thank you. As 'rol eic' has noted, a flat belt pulley need only be crowned to have the middle at a slightly greater diameter than than edges in order to keep the belt on the pulley - 1/16" on a 3' diameter, 6" wide pulley is sufficient. The easiest way is to use the compound slide at an angle and cut two flat faces towards the middle. The theory is that, with a greater diameter the middle travels faster than the edges and when the belt starts to run off it meets the resistance of the slower moving edges which pushes it back to the middle. I have heard people say that this is not correct - I am a volunteer at a steam museum in England, Forncett Industrial Steam Museum, and we were donated a Victorian, 1840 - 1870, line shaft workshop that we had to transport to the museum and set up to run. Believe you me, the theory is absolutely correct. We had a steep learning curve setting it all up and getting it all running true. I had one visitor tell me (I demonstrate the workshop, and we run it off a 15nhp Marshall steam engine) that the belts are shaped to the pulley and are bent over at the edges to keep them on...he was still adamant that he was correct and I was wrong when I showed him 5" wide belts staying on 6" wide pulleys. Some people will believe anything!
I happy to have you sharing your experiences and knowledge with me and also majorities!
I wish a safe and peaceful journey!
why cant everyone just get to the point like this. I love these types of videos. No fluff, no nonsense. Just valuable info. Thank you!
The best teacher on the Internet. Thank you Marc!
Never to old to learn, thanks so very much, never thought of clamping a part to the ways on the lathe, and love the red paint on the old Atlas lathe, it's a 101 correct, like 4 more, I have plenty of them. Was going to make a drive wheel for my belt sander 5", but the material is more expensive than the already made wheel, 3/16" key way and all,,, 👍👍👍👍👍👍
You are the best so far.
"Width-wise" said like a true French Canadian. We are proud of you. Thanks!
I love watching a master of his trade at work. Thank you so much for sharing! And thanks for the channel plug as well.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
I Pheir Phon,
Appreciates your Shares-Gaven Peacefully!
Please stay Alive and Happy,
Please!
How ingenious!!! Thank you for sharing!!!
I own a 4x6 bandsaw like the green on in your video that I am trying to fix using info in this video. Thanks so much for sharing.
Marc, superb instruction for a technique that is new to me. Looking forward to trying this out.Thank you for sharing this with us.
I'll be honest, i didn't have much faith in the first minute but i stuck around and i'm so happy i did. That was an amazing technique that I've never seen or heard of and i can't wait to go use it myself. new sub here!
The simpler, the better. Excellent!
A strange mix of sarcasm, safety reminders and very nice machine work. It is like a really good breakfast.
Amazing !
I have to make a convex pulley for my little cheapie belt sander and now i know how to do it !
Thanks Marc !
LOL, I guess after this video I will forever be the the proud owner of knowledge of this interesting technique :) Thank you!
Thanks for demonstrating this useful technique! My toolpost grinder uses crowned pulleys.
Mark, thanks for demonstrating this profiling technique! It would seem that there are countless applications for which this can be applied.
That was pretty cool. I don't fully understand it so I'll have to go and watch it a few more times. Thanks for posting this! Bob in Virginia, USA.
thank you for posting this video. It is exactly the thought process to arrive at desired results in the shop. Please keep it up
Really happy to see you back at it, Marc! You've got a niche that many other UA-camrs don't.
I forgot all about this method. Thank you! Ironically my machine was once a tracer lathe. But when I bought it the tracer had been removed. Oh well. So the poor man's tracer technique is still pretty good.
Excellent Marc! That's a technique I have not seen before. Thank you.
Es un placer poder tener estos videos,gracias por compartir su maestria siempre es bueno recordar, las clases de cuando estaba en mi formacion,un cordial saludo desde España.
Thanks for this, Marc, there were quite a few points in there that were new to me at least. Glad to see you posting.
Mart.
Marc, that is so amazingly simple and useful. Merci Monsieur.
Thank you, your technique makes more sense than the others I've seen.
Very nice process. Best looking Atlas I've ever seen. I'll bet it is better than new.
Great tips. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for such a clear and concise demonstration. I've been wondering for a while now how this was done in the olden times. Please do keep up the good work with these excellent videos of yours!
Merci Marc. OK, now I have run out of French.
But I liked your technique and appreciate that you did this with an Atlas lathe. They are better than people believe.
Your expression of "proud ownership" was hilarious. Not sure if that was true Canadian pride, true Canadian sarcasm or perhaps they are one in the same. Thanks for the tip, Marc. Yet another thumbs up from me...
Hi Adam! You have to check the sing in the background when I say that I will be the proud owner ... You will then know if it is pride or sarcasm. Thanks for watching and be safe, Marc
Interesting method! Thankyou. 👍🙋 I'll apply it in the turning of my next set of belt sander pulleys.
Love watching you at your forte passing on knowlage. Thanks.
Better than leaving stock on the sides to center the crown is to leave stock on the OD.
Blue the OD and cut the profile at a diameter that just leaves a little blue. The blue mark is the apex, so measure that to both sides and adjust the tool, or template accordingly before the final cuts.
In this demo the indicator was attached to the compound, so that could be used to shift the tool relative to the template.
Fantastic! You are a great teacher... Congratulations! I learned lots with your videos! Thanks!
Another great machining technique. Many thanks, Marc!
Great technique. Never seen it before! Thanks for sharing.
Awesome technique Marc! I'm going to put that to use this weekend to make a small domed pressure plate I need to make. That will save me having to build a ball turning jig first. Thanks very much for this! :)
thank you very much for such a brilliantly simple process for crowning.
Very nice and cool idea.
Great Show! Thank you for sharing your time and many talents!
Splendid video Marc! You've done it again!
That's a really cool technique there. Very good explanation! I'm going to have to try this. Setup videos like this are incredibly helpful
Very nice. I'm looking forward to trying this. Thanks.
Thanks Marc ! Handy tracing technique !
Nice Atlas wow beautiful. Thank for the videos. Pick up a lot off of them. Thank you.
Thank you for showing this technique!
Hello Mark,i always enjoy your videos.keep up the great videos and the narrative...thank you.
Lmao, the look on your dace when you say you’ll be the owner of a crowned pulley ! Awesome video!
Perfect. Thank you sir. Just what I was looking for to make my Belt sander Rollers.
Brilliant demonstration, thank you!
Thanks for making this video. I am new to machining, and building a kit which is designed to use a flat belt. Was wondering how to put the crown into the pulley.
This technique worked great for me, thanks again.
Flat....Flat belts.... :D Great information, thanks for your Posts!
Hello all, crowned pulleys are used extensively throughout the printing industry for flat belt product contact delivery. This method is one I like, thanx.
Nice work Marc, many thanks for sharing. Kindest regards. Joe.
Thanks, so much, Marc. I enjoy your videos.
nice tecknic !! I usually just make 3 facets not as pretty but it works.
Great video, very informative. Very good quality camera work. It's very nice of you to share your vast amount of machining knowledge with all of us. I always look forward to your videos. Thank you. Dan
That was brilliant Marc!
great lesson marc, i am impressed with that little 3 jaw it appears to run quite true.
Many thanks for showing this Marc. Have you a video where you talk about your lathe tool holder? I have an old Southbend lathe but not happy with the original tool holder. I'd like to build a tool holder similar to yours.
Just a couple of comments. About 60 years ago I started my machinist career on a 12 in Craftsman lathe which was made by Atlas . It is good to see cutting tools made from HSS. It seems that with the advent of inserts ( I use them a lot) the skills of off hand grinding is being lost.
Great video and machining tip....thanks Marc
Nice method of tracing.
That is a great technique and I will try to remember it. You and I have basically the same lathe although mine is Craftsman and the drive is underneath. So I suspect that we have the same 3 jaw chuck. My chuck is .003" off center when the jaws are nice and tight. Your chuck looked like it was dead on. If it really is how did you do that? Thanks for the great video.
Hey Marc,
Another great teaching video. Thanks for sharing!
Cheers
Jimmy
English wheel anvils ideas are running through my head.
That was awesome Marc !
Thanks for the video learned another trick today
lots of use for these for conveyor belts
Aboot on center Aboot ready. Oh i never get tired of that lol
Excellent video, Marc! That was entirely new to me and I much appreciate the lesson.
I had an Atlas just like yours(mine was green though)but I sold it for an import that had a larger spindle bore. Sure wish I had kept it.It was a good machine. Didn't really like the flat ways but was still a good machine. Like the impromptu tracer setup........
Cool! I am very interested to see how you do this. I make crowned pulleys for my model conveyor systems. Ill post a link in a second comment, i guess you will have to approve it if you want it to be visible. Thanks for another video! Jim
Excellent video Marc, thank you. Would you mind explaining how you would accurately determine how much to surface off the sides of the pulley to ensure the high spot of the crown was in the center?
Nice method for us without a tracer attachment.
How cool is that? A lathe tracing "mechanism" where the servo function is done by the operator's eyes and hands. It give me great joy to see an actual radiused crown rather than the double angle (flat triangle) approximation I have seen used by several other UA-cam machinists, including some creators whom I otherwise respect.
A question: is there any guidance on how high the center should be for different diameters and widths of pulleys?
======= Note for the perplexed ==========
If you have the width and the difference between the edge radius and the center radius (or most combinations of dimensions), you can calculate the radius of the template needed to make such a crown. Hint: google [ circle segment calculator ].
TRacer on the cheap...I like it. :-)
Also simple, and genius!
Dear Marc, thank you very much
Lesson: 64
Interesting approach to an interesting problem. I personally would have used a mandrel to ensure I didn't waste the boss material. There is always a different way to skin a cat. Thumbs up. Nice work. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
thankyou so much for this very useful info. excellent video . subscribed and liked..cheers
Thanks Marc!
That's all well and good, but the recommended crown radius on a 4" diameter pulley is around 40"!
Very instructive. Thx.
Thanks for the video. what are the demesions of the sheet metal under the chuck on the ways for chips? thank you
Brilliant
Clever!
Very instructive video, as all of yours are. I do not know what is the principle that causes the belts to self-center on concave rollers. Is there a Rule of Thumb regarding the radius of curvature on the roller relative to the width of the belt?
Hi Jorge! The crowned surface of the pulley turns at the same speed (RPM) all over. However the edges of the crowned surface turn slower than its center (surface feet per minute). It is that difference in speed that makes the belt track on center. In other words the edges are trying to catch up to the center and if the edges are not at the same speed, the one closest to center drags the other one closer to center since both edges want to have the same speed (SFM). I do not know what the rule of thumb is for the amount of crown but I can say that the friction caused by the difference in speed between the edges and the center will increase proportionally to the amount of crown. A pronounced crown will wear the belt faster. I hope this helps? Marc
Ah!! Thank you for the explanation Marc.
muito legal,aprendi muito com esse vídeo,parabéns
Merci Renato!
Obrigado Renato!
you are so awesome dude
Jennifer Merkel is and was really good at this!
nice trick, thanks! :)
very good
Hi, nice idea that I will use in the future, thank you.
As 'rol eic' has noted, a flat belt pulley need only be crowned to have the middle at a slightly greater diameter than than edges in order to keep the belt on the pulley - 1/16" on a 3' diameter, 6" wide pulley is sufficient. The easiest way is to use the compound slide at an angle and cut two flat faces towards the middle.
The theory is that, with a greater diameter the middle travels faster than the edges and when the belt starts to run off it meets the resistance of the slower moving edges which pushes it back to the middle.
I have heard people say that this is not correct -
I am a volunteer at a steam museum in England, Forncett Industrial Steam Museum, and we were donated a Victorian, 1840 - 1870, line shaft workshop that we had to transport to the museum and set up to run.
Believe you me, the theory is absolutely correct. We had a steep learning curve setting it all up and getting it all running true.
I had one visitor tell me (I demonstrate the workshop, and we run it off a 15nhp Marshall steam engine) that the belts are shaped to the pulley and are bent over at the edges to keep them on...he was still adamant that he was correct and I was wrong when I showed him 5" wide belts staying on 6" wide pulleys. Some people will believe anything!
Hi Andy! Thanks for the great input!
Is it 5-Dimentional- Platform?
Why would you not make a rigid stop vs the indicator?
I see your a fan of Mrs Browns Boys Marc..
super Marc