Dear thank you for your video, I am having issues with my giant revolt (alu frame and seatpost) the seatpost is sinking 1mm every km. I see you have positioned the clamp 1 mm out the frame while torqueing. I was wondering if this is important as my clamp sits deeper in the frame m. (And my seatpost is sinking despite using crabon grip). Any ideas whats going wrong? Thanks
Some models you can't use a round seat post, these will be obvious as the back of the seat tube is flat but some models have a shim that sits at the back of the post essentially turning that part of the d-fuse post circular to be clamped. The same wedge can then be used. This only really applies to the gravel bikes that are designed to be able to take a dropped post so I'd check to see if you have a shim the opposite side to the wedge
@@giantlincoln you are 100% correct. I just tried a 30.9 seat post off of my sons bike and it doesn’t fit down the seat tube. Diameter is too large. Not sure what model Giant says it fits but definitely not a 2021 Giant Revolt 2. Thanks for you help.
My giant contend came with an additional black clamp about 1 cm long that can be fitted between the clamp in the frame and the cover that slides in on top. There are no instructions or reference to it anywhere. Do I fit it? Why do giant only provide a very general user manual not a model specific one? It has no detail on anything.
Hi, thanks for the video, really useful. I've had to replace the seatpost as the one supplied with my wife's bike, a Liv AR4, doesn't go high enough. Our Giant dealer told us to absolutely not extend the post beyond the minimum mark, as the whole point of the d-fuse post is to have as little post within the frame as possible - and by extending beyond the minimum line, we'd be putting undue stress on the seat tube & post. I've found a composite replacement for her old aluminium seatpost. My question: do I need to adjust-down the torque settings for the clamp for the 6Nm indicated on the bike, given the new post is composite? BTW, for those looking for longer seatposts, they certainly do exist, and happily they are very well priced. The long composite version (Giant manufactured) I sourced here in Oz was only AUS$95.
What do you think. my giant frame is a little small for me. And I raised the seatpost to the lowest mark, and then raised another 2 centimeters of the minimum mark. Do you think this is acceptable?
You don't want to go any further than the minimum mark as you then start to put excessive stress on the back of your seat tube which can ultimately fail resulting in a broken frame
@@giantlincoln thanks for the reply. have you by any chance met a seatpost shaped like a d fuse of some elongated pattern as a gift? longer than normal
Yes, if either the post or frame is carbon you need a carbon paste, it essentially stops the two parts bonding together as well as providing extra friction between them. So if you didn't use it when dealing with carbon you may find you can't remove it eventually or the post will slip even when done up to torque
@@giantlincoln but the bike you are took to demo, its frame is aluminium not carbon. I actually use the carbon paste with my aluminium frame vs seatpot, exactly the same wat with your demo, but my saddle keeps slipping, is there any way to fix it
@@phuoctho_ doesn't matter if one element is aluminium, just as long as something is carbon then carbon paste needs to be used. Carbon paste is used for extra friction so sometimes having too much can cause issues so a thin layer is all that's needed and to then just make sure the torque settings are correct. If that's not working your next step realistically would be to take it to you local Giant shop and get them to have a look at it as there may be something else that's not quite right that's causing it to slip
If any element is carbon then paste should always be used, we have had cases of slipping seat posts where the clamp has bottomed out for whatever reason so no matter what torque is applied the post never gets clamped, it may be worth dropping into your local Giant Store and have them take a look at what's going on
@Giant Lincoln that's my next step! Last summer I had a creak thar wouldn't go away. I finally solved that and the slipping returned. Definitely frustrated when I love the rest of the bike.
In your case the seat tube is designed to fit both d fuse and round posts, the metal shim will sit behind the post but make sure the ridge that is on the shim just sits above the frame of the bike. Also make sure you are using the carbon gripper or grease between the post and shim as well, whichever it is that your bike/ post requires
Sometimes if it's been in a set position for a while you'll need to give the front ot the saddle a bit of a smack from the side to twist the post a little to break the seal and it should then hopefully slide out nicely after that
Agreed, this is the worst seat post design ever. I wish I never bought the bike. Garbage. It’s designed to stay in place and not to be moved regularly but I need to In Order to fit it in my van and car.
but don't you need to apply paste to the seat post? only to the frame?
Dear thank you for your video, I am having issues with my giant revolt (alu frame and seatpost) the seatpost is sinking 1mm every km. I see you have positioned the clamp 1 mm out the frame while torqueing. I was wondering if this is important as my clamp sits deeper in the frame m. (And my seatpost is sinking despite using crabon grip). Any ideas whats going wrong? Thanks
would anything possible be gained by using Loctite Threadlocker to the bolt (and only the bolt)?
Giant site states you can put a 30.9 round post in. Is the same wedge used or is there a different wedge to accommodate the road post.
Some models you can't use a round seat post, these will be obvious as the back of the seat tube is flat but some models have a shim that sits at the back of the post essentially turning that part of the d-fuse post circular to be clamped. The same wedge can then be used. This only really applies to the gravel bikes that are designed to be able to take a dropped post so I'd check to see if you have a shim the opposite side to the wedge
@@giantlincoln I have a 2021 Giant Revolt 2. The back of the post is flat.
@@Pia-til. I may be wrong but I believe the frame doesn't allow for a round seatpost on that model as the tube itself is d-shaped
@@giantlincoln you are 100% correct. I just tried a 30.9 seat post off of my sons bike and it doesn’t fit down the seat tube. Diameter is too large. Not sure what model Giant says it fits but definitely not a 2021 Giant Revolt 2. Thanks for you help.
@@Pia-til. you're welcome 😊
My giant contend came with an additional black clamp about 1 cm long that can be fitted between the clamp in the frame and the cover that slides in on top. There are no instructions or reference to it anywhere. Do I fit it? Why do giant only provide a very general user manual not a model specific one? It has no detail on anything.
Supiste para qué era? Parace ser un adaptador para montar una parrilla.
Does Does carbon paste come with the bike?
@@tomdammeyer4968 Yes, but only a small sachet.
Great, should be enough tho@@Tailspin80
Where can I find a longer seatpost? or an adapter for a round pipe?
Hi, thanks for the video, really useful. I've had to replace the seatpost as the one supplied with my wife's bike, a Liv AR4, doesn't go high enough. Our Giant dealer told us to absolutely not extend the post beyond the minimum mark, as the whole point of the d-fuse post is to have as little post within the frame as possible - and by extending beyond the minimum line, we'd be putting undue stress on the seat tube & post.
I've found a composite replacement for her old aluminium seatpost. My question: do I need to adjust-down the torque settings for the clamp for the 6Nm indicated on the bike, given the new post is composite?
BTW, for those looking for longer seatposts, they certainly do exist, and happily they are very well priced. The long composite version (Giant manufactured) I sourced here in Oz was only AUS$95.
@@davidmarsh7962 you don’t need to lower the torque setting the 6Nm will be fine with your new post
@@giantlincoln Brilliant, thanks for letting me know.
What do you think. my giant frame is a little small for me. And I raised the seatpost to the lowest mark, and then raised another 2 centimeters of the minimum mark. Do you think this is acceptable?
You don't want to go any further than the minimum mark as you then start to put excessive stress on the back of your seat tube which can ultimately fail resulting in a broken frame
@@giantlincoln thanks for the reply. have you by any chance met a seatpost shaped like a d fuse of some elongated pattern as a gift? longer than normal
Do we really need carbon paste?
Yes, if either the post or frame is carbon you need a carbon paste, it essentially stops the two parts bonding together as well as providing extra friction between them. So if you didn't use it when dealing with carbon you may find you can't remove it eventually or the post will slip even when done up to torque
@@giantlincoln but the bike you are took to demo, its frame is aluminium not carbon. I actually use the carbon paste with my aluminium frame vs seatpot, exactly the same wat with your demo, but my saddle keeps slipping, is there any way to fix it
@@phuoctho_ doesn't matter if one element is aluminium, just as long as something is carbon then carbon paste needs to be used. Carbon paste is used for extra friction so sometimes having too much can cause issues so a thin layer is all that's needed and to then just make sure the torque settings are correct. If that's not working your next step realistically would be to take it to you local Giant shop and get them to have a look at it as there may be something else that's not quite right that's causing it to slip
Pretty sure the shop never used carbon paste and first time it slipped, the post was all scratched up. Now it slips when i do all this stuff.
If any element is carbon then paste should always be used, we have had cases of slipping seat posts where the clamp has bottomed out for whatever reason so no matter what torque is applied the post never gets clamped, it may be worth dropping into your local Giant Store and have them take a look at what's going on
@Giant Lincoln that's my next step! Last summer I had a creak thar wouldn't go away. I finally solved that and the slipping returned. Definitely frustrated when I love the rest of the bike.
Any issues can be frustrating but hopefully you manage to get it sorted soon enough
My bike came with d fuse post removed, I have additional long slim metal part, where do I fit it?
In your case the seat tube is designed to fit both d fuse and round posts, the metal shim will sit behind the post but make sure the ridge that is on the shim just sits above the frame of the bike. Also make sure you are using the carbon gripper or grease between the post and shim as well, whichever it is that your bike/ post requires
Bro how the heck do you remove the post. I can now for the life of me remove the clamp
Sometimes if it's been in a set position for a while you'll need to give the front ot the saddle a bit of a smack from the side to twist the post a little to break the seal and it should then hopefully slide out nicely after that
It is a nightmare, D-Fuse, cracking, noisy, cover... everything. Nobody knows how to make this S*&%T to bo quiet!
Yes. Mine makes an absolute racket. It would be a good bike otherwise.
Agreed, this is the worst seat post design ever. I wish I never bought the bike. Garbage. It’s designed to stay in place and not to be moved regularly but I need to In Order to fit it in my van and car.
나는 매우 동의한다.
호환성이 매우 좋지 않다.
나 또한 자전거를 산것을 매우 후회하고 있다.