I had this problem on my Canyon Endurace. Initially, I used carbon paste, which came with the bike. However, my seat post started creaking, and I quickly realized that the paste was causing it. So, I applied a bit of Solidol grease to the seat post, which solved the issue. Everything was fine for about 1000km, until one day, my seat just slid all the way into the frame. I tried applying less grease, tightening a bit above the recommended torque, but it kept slipping. Then I read on the internet that a regular toothpaste can help with both slipping and creaking, I tried it, and it worked. So I recommend using toothpaste if you don't have a good carbon paste and don't want to spend money on it.
The steps described in this video also helps fix another issue I had with my seat post. When I bought my Cannondale couple of years ago, it started making cracking noise after just a couple of rides (Crack-on-dale as they say, didn't know at the time). After investigation, I realized the cracking of the seat post was caused by me tightening it up too much. I have tried untightening it a little but then my seat post would slip, leading me to tighten it more, which was making it do cracking noise again. In summary, unfixable. Then, I found out about the SAC-2 paste from park tool (and also bought a torque wrench in the meantime). This fixed my cracking noise and/or slipping seat post both at the same time. Thanks for sharing such useful tips. I learn so much by watching!!!
I have wrapped some cm of electrical tape around the post, just 2mm above the frame. Every time, i remove the seat, i don’t have to measure the correct height at reinstalling. Maybe sometime I need the tape for fixing an issue. It also prevents the post from slipping through in case the clamp is too loose.
If you have a non-round seatpost, wiggle it back from side and back and forth with a bit of force when tightening and do the tightening in multiple steps. This often helps to settle the clamp wedge really flush against the post and avoids loosing tension during the ride. (Looking at you, Cannondale)
As usual, a super simple job becomes a faff when you have modern tech. My problem persisted after tightening to spec, and I found that my particular frame (internal clamping mechanism) is prone to the issue. Some riders gave up, but not I. The slipping was almost solved, so I reasoned that a tiny bit more resistance to falling might do it. I located a plastic seatpost reflector mount of the right size (standard on many US-sold bikes) and placed it around the post in contact with the top of the seat tube, snugged it up, and voila! You hardly notice the added "clamp," and the post hasn't slipped since.
I’m whatever’s bigger than a Clydesdale, no carbon frames for me but using carbon paste on my seatposts has been a lifesaver. I use it on my stems and bars, too.
I only put the fiber paste inside the frame, so the post pushes it down and doesn't make a mess. If it's on the post, it sorta squishes out and seems like a waste.
I had an issue with the seatpost slipping and discovered that right where I needed it to tighten, the post was not 27.2, but was 27.06, however , 5mm either side of it, measured 27.2. After I sat there and thought about it for about 40 mins, it hit me that the post always stopped at the same spot, so I broke out the digital caliper and started measuring and found the narrow spot and got the post warrantied.
It’s worth putting a strip ( sliver) of black electrical tape vertically on to the seat post, ending where it joins the frame. It’s surprising how many seat tube slips slightly without the rider knowing and only become noticeable when it’s slipped in a lot ! This method allows the rider to instantly see if the tube has slid into the frame because the tape crinkles up as the tube slides as it can’t pass through the bike. If you cut a sliver it’s visually not noticeable, so you can leave it on the seat tube all the time.
Had the dropping seatpost issue on the latest CANYON ultimate. I was installing it correctly with carbon paste and torque as the manufacturer intended. The issue was the seatpost clamp screw vibrating loose multiple times. Turned it back during 30 days recall period. Can't take a torque wrench with me on my ride because of not knowing when the saddle will drop the next time.
@kokonanana1 I actually thought about that but want to be able to remove my saddle or adjust the height. Also, after reading online that this is a common problem with the seatpost clamp, I didn't want to void the warranty either in case it wouldn't solve the issue.
Having screws that vibrate loose is such a joke, especially on an expensive bike. I hate reading stories like this, glad bike industry is struggling selling crap like this. Having China in charge of your bike is always a fail. Just look at the brake calipers they make compared to Shimano. They change the arm adjuster screw to be 2mm in China and then it just vibrates and moves while you ride, smh. Arm adjuster screw is supposed to be 3mm so it can't move.
Park Tool SAC2... my tube is 10+ years old and still works great... seatpost... handlebars... mounted components... handlebar grips on the flatbar bike.
I’ve found that normally a small strip of abrasive skate board tape on the seat post then insert into the frame and tighten. This usually stops the seat post from dropping down!
My seatpost kept slipping when I first got my most recent bike. Never happened before in all 5 carbon bikes I owned except this one. Only difference is the frames I had before had metal inserts that I imagine are more flexible than carbon and allow more torque and pressure to be applied. I'm guessing current frames to keep the weight lower have removed all kind of metal inserts/interface surfaces. That said my seatpost is now being slippage free although I don't know why and am scared to even mess with it further.
#gcntech What is the benefit in wearing a white jersey, socks and shoes over, for example, a black jersey, socks and shoes in hot sunny weather? White is said to reflect heat, whereas black is said to absorb heat more readily, but is this correct and if so, how much does it affect the rider?
I have struggled with this on my Canyon Exceed, which has the integrated seat clamp with the set screw in the carbon frame with only 4Nm of torque, which I dare not “exceed.” I have used carbon paste from Park Tool and it’s never really been great.😐I will probably either add a dropper seatpost, or maybe just add a collar to the seatpost for a little extra reinforcement.
My carbon bikes never slip, but my steel bike with a Thomson seatpost slips. I tried a new saddle clamp, with grease, without, with carbon gripper paste. Nothing helps. Any tipps i could try?
I have brand new Trek Emonda ALR5 and seat post is slipping down 1 cm per 20 kms of riding (torque for this part is 6Nm). I used Icetoolz paste to fix a problem. I will check if it works.
#askgcn Hi guys, I have a question about cycling shoes, I always get numb feet after 15- 20 miles and it's so bad that doesn't go away for an hour after finishing my ride . I am wearing size 9.5 for trainers and my cycling shoes are size 10. It seems to fit me perfectly and I can even wiggle my toes. I use Specialized Torch shoes. Is there any solution? (The numbness isn't caused by cold temperatures) Thanks!
I used to get tons of numbness before switching to the green specialized footbeds. Rode a century and couldn't feel my big toes for 2 days. Last century no issues with the same shoes. Only changed footbeds
Lubing the bolt can vastly increase the the actual clamping torque being applied. So your torque wrench might still read 5nm, but the applied clamping force can be much higher, ua-cam.com/video/-hSmtLVESSM/v-deo.html
If you don't have cool park tool paste , you can use a bit of spit and sand. Also a nise self threading screw through frame and seat post will fix you slipping issues..👍
Yes, 'it may not be a fun subject to discuss', but a critical one to get right, which could end up as an expensive mistake if correct torque values are not applied.😭
I had a problem with slippage on my 3T Strada and a mechanic in Livigno glued a small piece of fine sandpaper to the seat post in addition to cleaning the post etc and adding the carbon paste. Problem solved.
You don't need a fiber grip you just need to ride without mad guards and the fiber grid Will appear on your seat post Magically from all that send that will be splashing on your bike . 😂 I'm just saying!!!
Neither grease, oil, nor anti-seize - usually torque specs are for clean threads, and need to be adjusted if a lubricant is used. But in a case like this I would go with whatever the manufacturer has recommended in their assembly or maintenance guide - their recommended torque spec might be for a lubricated screw.
There is no such thing as a torque setting for a seatpost collar. You tighten it until you can't move the saddle from left to right and that is your torque setting. For crappy modern carbon seatposts you can guess at this measurement with a 5nm-10nm torque key I guess.
@@janeblogs324 Jane don't be dumb and argue just to argue I don't have time for it. 10mm of torque will mess up a retro seatpost binder bolt and a lugged seapost collar also.
Have you got any tips that we missed? ⚙
I had this problem on my Canyon Endurace. Initially, I used carbon paste, which came with the bike. However, my seat post started creaking, and I quickly realized that the paste was causing it. So, I applied a bit of Solidol grease to the seat post, which solved the issue. Everything was fine for about 1000km, until one day, my seat just slid all the way into the frame. I tried applying less grease, tightening a bit above the recommended torque, but it kept slipping. Then I read on the internet that a regular toothpaste can help with both slipping and creaking, I tried it, and it worked. So I recommend using toothpaste if you don't have a good carbon paste and don't want to spend money on it.
@@Matvey.Same bike, same problem. Thanks for the tip.
The steps described in this video also helps fix another issue I had with my seat post. When I bought my Cannondale couple of years ago, it started making cracking noise after just a couple of rides (Crack-on-dale as they say, didn't know at the time).
After investigation, I realized the cracking of the seat post was caused by me tightening it up too much. I have tried untightening it a little but then my seat post would slip, leading me to tighten it more, which was making it do cracking noise again. In summary, unfixable.
Then, I found out about the SAC-2 paste from park tool (and also bought a torque wrench in the meantime). This fixed my cracking noise and/or slipping seat post both at the same time.
Thanks for sharing such useful tips. I learn so much by watching!!!
I have wrapped some cm of electrical tape around the post, just 2mm above the frame. Every time, i remove the seat, i don’t have to measure the correct height at reinstalling. Maybe sometime I need the tape for fixing an issue. It also prevents the post from slipping through in case the clamp is too loose.
@-alex-3724Sorry, but have you got any idea what an integrated seatpost is? It is integrated. It can’t slip.
If you have a non-round seatpost, wiggle it back from side and back and forth with a bit of force when tightening and do the tightening in multiple steps. This often helps to settle the clamp wedge really flush against the post and avoids loosing tension during the ride. (Looking at you, Cannondale)
As usual, a super simple job becomes a faff when you have modern tech. My problem persisted after tightening to spec, and I found that my particular frame (internal clamping mechanism) is prone to the issue. Some riders gave up, but not I. The slipping was almost solved, so I reasoned that a tiny bit more resistance to falling might do it. I located a plastic seatpost reflector mount of the right size (standard on many US-sold bikes) and placed it around the post in contact with the top of the seat tube, snugged it up, and voila! You hardly notice the added "clamp," and the post hasn't slipped since.
Great hack! 🙌 Awesome work, it always feels great when you make your own bike fix!
If you don't have any fancy grease and you want a temporary solution, can you put some piece of paper or so in between there to make it a bit tighter?
I’m whatever’s bigger than a Clydesdale, no carbon frames for me but using carbon paste on my seatposts has been a lifesaver. I use it on my stems and bars, too.
Funny. My seatpost started slipping yesterday and now you post this video. Is GCN stalking and controlling me? ;-)
Mwa ha ha ha!
I only put the fiber paste inside the frame, so the post pushes it down and doesn't make a mess. If it's on the post, it sorta squishes out and seems like a waste.
I had an issue with the seatpost slipping and discovered that right where I needed it to tighten, the post was not 27.2, but was 27.06, however , 5mm either side of it, measured 27.2. After I sat there and thought about it for about 40 mins, it hit me that the post always stopped at the same spot, so I broke out the digital caliper and started measuring and found the narrow spot and got the post warrantied.
I'd just toss the frame if friction grease doesn't sort your problem out. That stuff increases seatpost ID size by one whole size sometimes.
It’s worth putting a strip ( sliver) of black electrical tape vertically on to the seat post, ending where it joins the frame. It’s surprising how many seat tube slips slightly without the rider knowing and only become noticeable when it’s slipped in a lot ! This method allows the rider to instantly see if the tube has slid into the frame because the tape crinkles up as the tube slides as it can’t pass through the bike. If you cut a sliver it’s visually not noticeable, so you can leave it on the seat tube all the time.
What’s a slither? Do you mean sliver?
No. You should use very thin marker. Tape is a bad idea.
@@kokonanana1 Thanks for pointing out my bad grammar 👏
Had the dropping seatpost issue on the latest CANYON ultimate.
I was installing it correctly with carbon paste and torque as the manufacturer intended.
The issue was the seatpost clamp screw vibrating loose multiple times. Turned it back during 30 days recall period.
Can't take a torque wrench with me on my ride because of not knowing when the saddle will drop the next time.
Locktite the screw!
@kokonanana1 I actually thought about that but want to be able to remove my saddle or adjust the height.
Also, after reading online that this is a common problem with the seatpost clamp, I didn't want to void the warranty either in case it wouldn't solve the issue.
@@tobiaswaldner loctite the clampscrew, not the seat post
@@janeblogs324 Sure the clampscrew... But how many andustments would you be able to make without wearing the threaded bushing in the frame?
Having screws that vibrate loose is such a joke, especially on an expensive bike. I hate reading stories like this, glad bike industry is struggling selling crap like this. Having China in charge of your bike is always a fail. Just look at the brake calipers they make compared to Shimano. They change the arm adjuster screw to be 2mm in China and then it just vibrates and moves while you ride, smh. Arm adjuster screw is supposed to be 3mm so it can't move.
it's funny that the same channel 11years ago did the same video, but in a 3minute video straight to the point...
Good vid Felix!!!
Park Tool SAC2... my tube is 10+ years old and still works great... seatpost... handlebars... mounted components... handlebar grips on the flatbar bike.
Heb het zelfde meegemaakt met mijn wilier sl klein stukje schuur linnen opgeplakt met goede lijm en blijft nu prima staan. Gr.
I’ve found that normally a small strip of abrasive skate board tape on the seat post then insert into the frame and tighten. This usually stops the seat post from dropping down!
Well done, this explains a lot!
Love the fenders!! Err, mudguards!!
Mudguards or Fenders... that's one real battle 🥊
Can you use carbon paste on metal seat posts? Mine is slipping…
How often do you have to reapply the fiber paste (assuming all is fine)?
I'd do it every 3 months as part of my general maintenance unless I notice a ton of slipping.
My seatpost kept slipping when I first got my most recent bike. Never happened before in all 5 carbon bikes I owned except this one. Only difference is the frames I had before had metal inserts that I imagine are more flexible than carbon and allow more torque and pressure to be applied. I'm guessing current frames to keep the weight lower have removed all kind of metal inserts/interface surfaces. That said my seatpost is now being slippage free although I don't know why and am scared to even mess with it further.
#gcntech What is the benefit in wearing a white jersey, socks and shoes over, for example, a black jersey, socks and shoes in hot sunny weather? White is said to reflect heat, whereas black is said to absorb heat more readily, but is this correct and if so, how much does it affect the rider?
I have struggled with this on my Canyon Exceed, which has the integrated seat clamp with the set screw in the carbon frame with only 4Nm of torque, which I dare not “exceed.” I have used carbon paste from Park Tool and it’s never really been great.😐I will probably either add a dropper seatpost, or maybe just add a collar to the seatpost for a little extra reinforcement.
If in doubt send it over to your local bike shop 🙌 They will always be there to help you out with those tricky issues!
You glue the seat post into the frame?
I heard hairspray can be used in a pinch
Thats what we did on BMX handlebar grips back in the days.
Great everyday tip!
haha lol
My carbon bikes never slip, but my steel bike with a Thomson seatpost slips. I tried a new saddle clamp, with grease, without, with carbon gripper paste. Nothing helps. Any tipps i could try?
Could be wrong diametre post?
Sand all the hard anodization off it. Its slipperyer than shimano hubs
Haha, a good one. But there is no anodization, its a stainless steel frame. I will ask Standert what to do..@@janeblogs324
Even Trek have had 4 goes at a clamp for the Domane Gen4 setpoat, and still the seats slips 😢
I have brand new Trek Emonda ALR5 and seat post is slipping down 1 cm per 20 kms of riding (torque for this part is 6Nm). I used Icetoolz paste to fix a problem. I will check if it works.
Have thesame problem on thesame bike. did it work ?
@@josephonuh4663 Yes, paste fixed it forever !
#askgcn
Hi guys, I have a question about cycling shoes, I always get numb feet after 15- 20 miles and it's so bad that doesn't go away for an hour after finishing my ride . I am wearing size 9.5 for trainers and my cycling shoes are size 10. It seems to fit me perfectly and I can even wiggle my toes. I use Specialized Torch shoes. Is there any solution?
(The numbness isn't caused by cold temperatures)
Thanks!
I used to get tons of numbness before switching to the green specialized footbeds. Rode a century and couldn't feel my big toes for 2 days. Last century no issues with the same shoes. Only changed footbeds
@@BigDrawersMcGraw what kind of sole did you get?
Lubing the bolt can vastly increase the the actual clamping torque being applied. So your torque wrench might still read 5nm, but the applied clamping force can be much higher,
ua-cam.com/video/-hSmtLVESSM/v-deo.html
Awesome & Thanks :)
Back in the. 90’s we used climbers hand chalk dry
If you don't have cool park tool paste , you can use a bit of spit and sand. Also a nise self threading screw through frame and seat post will fix you slipping issues..👍
Is it dangerous to do this? will it damage and crack the frame or seatpost in long run?
@@Saltydog547 It's fine, there are bits of silica in friction grease. Sand is also silica.
Yes, 'it may not be a fun subject to discuss', but a critical one to get right, which could end up as an expensive mistake if correct torque values are not applied.😭
I had a problem with slippage on my 3T Strada and a mechanic in Livigno glued a small piece of fine sandpaper to the seat post in addition to cleaning the post etc and adding the carbon paste. Problem solved.
Future problem created, that's an actual hack
I'm kinda afraid to ask, but why does the seatpost have cables if is not a dropper?
It’s where the battery is stored for electronic shifting. For some e-bikes, cables also run through the seat tube for saddle mounted rear light.
Battery cables for Di2 drive train. Without that extra complexity, you have no bike at all, right?
@@coconutman1980 thanks for the answer!
Hmm, i have the same problem, but with an alloy seatpost! How annoying 🤯
Alex, I am NOT going to make and use grease that I added sand to.
You don't need a fiber grip you just need to ride without mad guards and the fiber grid Will appear on your seat post Magically from all that send that will be splashing on your bike . 😂 I'm just saying!!!
Alex is a sensible boy he never rides without mudguards in winter 😂
Seat angle looks great to me... just a very slight forward angle.
That is a lot of tools. Taking that bike to the shop 🙃
Just use an alloy seat post.
82.5 cm, must have long legs or tall
Clearly not fit for purpose🤨
NEVER lubricate threads of a fastener with grease or the end load will be above spec at the required torque load. Use a thin oil instead.
Yeah, thats True
Neither grease, oil, nor anti-seize - usually torque specs are for clean threads, and need to be adjusted if a lubricant is used. But in a case like this I would go with whatever the manufacturer has recommended in their assembly or maintenance guide - their recommended torque spec might be for a lubricated screw.
There is no such thing as a torque setting for a seatpost collar. You tighten it until you can't move the saddle from left to right and that is your torque setting. For crappy modern carbon seatposts you can guess at this measurement with a 5nm-10nm torque key I guess.
@@___Bebo___ the torque setting isn't for the collar, its for the carbon crushing
@@janeblogs324 Jane don't be dumb and argue just to argue I don't have time for it. 10mm of torque will mess up a retro seatpost binder bolt and a lugged seapost collar also.