Great tutorial! I really wanted to try to use acrylics in the winter months so I could spray inside. This video will help immensely! Thanks for the video 😎👍
Hello Mr. Chapman After a 2+ decade absence from modeling, I've just returned. Folks like you have been terrific in updating me, on many new products and techniques. I'm from the badger airbrush, and Testors/Humbrol enamels. Budzik, Cranky, and yourself (and of course others) have made tremendous contributions to the hobby. Thanks.
Those two colors work great together. Plain white would definitely not have looked as good as this one did. Plus, they're a good choice for a '58 Chevy. Do you ever put retarder or flow improver in your paint so it won't dry out as fast?
Thank you. These colors just naturally go together lol. I have never used retarder or flow improver. I get great results without it. Thanks for watching.
Hi Chris Chapman Big thank you for this jump start on getting back into model building-my first video was your bare metal foil how to...this acrylic paint ideal was one of my last pieces to add working on what type of airbrush n compressor to buy then l will be all set... thanks again 😄 n happy model building to the other modelers out there coming back to the family.
Hi Chris, excellent tutorials and a great way to build on a budget! I've watched all of your videos and must say, you & cranky are the reason I just bought my first airbrush after building models for 20+ years! I bought all of the primary colors in acrylic craft paint, a gallon of wiper fluid and some future. I hope to tackle my first kit this week. It's guys like you that motivate guys like me to try new things and perhaps step outside of our comfort zones....keep up the good work and I always look forward to your vids!
Awesome tutorial Chris.. iv been practicing on scrap bodies, starting to get the hang of it, but this video confirms l'm in the right direction. Thanks Chris ...love the color on the Impala
Thanks so much bud. Best thing is to get a 2 oz bottle of cheap paint then mix it with 2 oz of water. Now with four ounces of paint you can paint a body six or seven times. Spray entire body until it has a good coverage on it. Any runs or puddles means you went to slow or got to close. Now go rinse it off in the sink. Repaint. Continue to do this until you feel you have it down and then do it some more. In a few hours you will have it down and it cost .59 cents for a bottle of paint. Keep it up and I hope to see some progress vids soon bud.
Thanks for sharing Chris. Cant wait to start using the craft paint. You mention that u dont prime, just sand. What about ur small parts? Also do you sand the body before clear coat? Again thanks
Paul McWilliams lol, I still get told that but yet have a bunch of durst second and third place trophies given by the ones that say you can't use acrylic paints. Thanks for watching.
chris thank you for all your acrylic paint videos I just got started using an air brush and me and my 6 year old daughter started painting spoons and an old geral lee body and I tell ya what it was easy took a lot of my fears away knowing I can wash it off..lol but thank you for you and your videos very informing ,only thing I couldn't find was a video on the novus or um what ever it was call .and the wet sanding,buffing and making killer shine.
Thanks Frank. Glad you and your daughter are advancing in the hobby. I do have a video called polishing floor polish. Here is the link. Also when using acrylic paints you do not want to wet sand as it will reactivate the water basd paint and ruin the paint job. Watch the vid and I hope it helps you. Part three: How to polish floor polish clear coat Remember this is how to polish using Pledge Floor Care or any acrylic paint/clear coat.
I love your choice of car, colors and hub caps. Looks like maybe a scale larger than 1:25th scale? I’ve been experimenting airbrushing with craft paints and came across a DIY airbrush paint thinning mixture on UA-cam. One of them suggested staying away from windshield washer fluid “winter formulas” due to the harmful additives in the fluid(methanol?) that would be atomized using an airbrush. I’m still researching while I wait on my new airbrush delivery from Amazon, but was wondering what you thought. I like your technique using a hair dryer to assist drying the paint. Nice shine even before the clear coat. Thanks for sharing.
Beautiful work, Chris. You sir, are a true artist. I build models too. It's a great hobby... but I'm nowhere near the same league as you. I am however going to try my first acrylic paint job on a '65 Corvette... thanks to you and your videos.. You need a website.
Thank you for sharing Chris. great choice on colors. I am def gonna get those. I have been using the same acrylics and also wicked colors. fixing to watch your other to vids. haven't tried the floor polish. but gonna try. again thank you Bobby
Thanks for the reply. Not sure if you saw my disclaimer or not but the mop&shine does not shine anymore. I had to go back to pledges floor care polish. Not the wax. Hour this helps and I hope to see progress of your bills maybe?
Hi Chris...im a newbie & wanna begin to air brush & would like to start with your methods with Acrylics.Did you just wet sand the body?. Also do you recommend a single action brush for a beginner or jump right in off the bat with a dual action...i notice a lot of you guys on you tube have multiple brushes.
Hey there I use to live in Canada my friend loved it up there we owned a race track while living there got in alot of trouble in school for spelling color like this and not colour. Lol
Chris, that was an excellent video, and a great tip on marking the parts you fill with CA & baking powder, I have to try that...color came out really nice....
Chris, I love your videos - What airbrush and needle size are you using? I have a Paasche H single action siphon brush and can’t get close to the results you get. Maybe it’s just me or maybe a different type brush is the answer I’m looking for. Thanks for any advice or direction you can offer. Steve
Thanks for the vid Chris. Today I spent a bunch of money on a few jars of Model Masters paint for a Richard Petty Nascar Model. I noticed the Craft Smart paint at Michaels was a lot cheaper. Its been a long time since I built any models but I've got a few I want to build.
Very informative video, Chris. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I want to get more involved in the hobby on a budget. Your info helps a lot. I look forward to viewing your other videos. Best wishes, Mike
Hi Chris, Many thanks for doing these videos Sir, they are a great help, I have just managed to buy myself some Deco Art craft acrylics so you timed this just right... Since coming back to modelling and using an airbrush I have only use Vallejo acrylics, which are around £2:19 ($3.51) for a 17ml bottle, the Deco Art craft paint cost me £1:85 ($3:09) for a 59ml bottle, so already a HUGE saving for more than 3 times more paint... Off to watch the floor polish video now, thank you once again Sir... John...
Excellent my brother. Very nicely done and explained very well. Anyone should be able to watch this and after a few practice runs, be putting down fantastic paint jobs like this one. Well done and KUTGW! Gary
Hi, Chris Chapman. Nice explanation about crafts acrylics paints. Of what i heard of others you-tubers is that they clog the airbrush. But the way you show us is cool to use it. In my country there is not a place where you can buy those big brands of paints like: (Testors, Tamyia, Vallejo, citadel, P3) we only have craft paints. I diluted my paints with alcohol when i want them to be airbrush type and with distilled water when i want a regular flow. But your way I think is much better. I can find in my country those products that you mentioned. Thanks for the tips! and by the way love your model car.
I havent had any clogs with any paint other than vallejo primers. For some reason they skin over very easily in the airbrush and clog it. I started using retardant for those primers.
Excellent tutorial. I could not make the switch from airbrushing lacquers to acrylics. I have seen other videos where the instructor lightly sanded the surface to get the paint to bite. Do you do the same?
Hello Liel, Happy holidays. I sand my bodies with 800 to 1200 grit sandpaper. I do not use primer so I make it as smooth as I can so it will not show any blemishes. If you just scuff it so paint will grab it will show any scratches left behind.
Hello Kevin. The floor polish or most acrylic clears are already thin enough to spray straight fro the bottle. If it seems a little thick I use washer fluid.
Hi Chris: It's interesting how you can keep applying paint and it doesn't run. I asume the air is drying the paint so fast that runs are not a problem. Is that correct? Chuck
Hello Chuck. The reason the paint won't run is because of the very light coats of paint I put down with each pass. The paint dries almost instantly as there is not a lot of wet paint going onto the model. The air from the airbrush helps a little but mostly because acrylic paint dries extremely quick as there are no chemicals like lacquer in the paint of which take a long time to "gas out".
sorry for the multiple posts... have you found that acryls are durable? I know my oil based enamels and lacquers have lasted years (actually decades!) on my models. You are making me think maybe I should convert to or at least start incorporating acryls on my models. Thanks again!! Eric
I`ve been using the Acrylics too but I simply thin them with water and then clear coat with automotive urethane. Cant beat it for durability but It`s interesting that you use the washer fluid and floor wax right in the paint. I am curious about the long term durability of this technique.
@@ChrisChapman195 I've never heard anyone give an explanation for the washer fluid. Why would glycol be any different or better than water in the acrylics. I've asked lots of guys but no one's ever been able to give me a logical chemistry answer, and where did this technique come from?
The only difference in my model building is that I sometimes get into restoration projects or body modifications where various flaws need to be filled and primed before I know the body looks right. But with acrylics, I also like the fact that you were able to hold the model without the problem of paint fumes. With canned spray paint, I'd have to place the body in my fume cabinet where it's not as easy to see.
+Jim Ervin Yea there is no chemicals or fumes but I still use a mask so I don't breath in overflow paint. Also I do the same when I am cutting and making modifications. The primer is needed to make sure it is all neat and clean.
Like I said on your post. Spray and rinse off. You will learn in Donn Yost's video's that I am spraying my acrylics the same way as him. This is how you will spray all paints from acrylic, enamel and lacquer. If you are going to go with a clear coat in your airbrush you will spray it this way as well. So for .59 cents for 4 oz of paint you will not be able to learn any cheaper. Thanks for watching and have fun.
what needle size are you using in your airbrush? I can't seem to get craft paint to shoot through mine (Master G22, with 0.3mm needle) unless I thin it about 5:1, and end up getting terrible coverage with it so diluted.
Glad I came across this. Running out of rattle can colors. Tamiya is hard to come across at a decent price due to shipping fees. Only Hobby Lobby in my area and they roll with Testors.
Hi Chris Hope your new year is starting off well. I know you spray mostly acrylics as do I. My question is how many coats do you apply? I’ve been applying two good coats and at least 2 good coats of floor polish. It doesn’t seem to take much to mar the paint while working on it though which makes me wonder if I’m applying enough paint. Recently I marred it with a toothpick while applying BMF. I was barely applying pressure to remove excess foil. Thoughts?? Thanks for your help. 😀
I usually cover four to five medium coats. You also may need to let both paint and clear dry longer to fully harden. I bake mine after painting over night in a dehydrator or give at least a week prior to adding clear. Then I give the clear a week to air dry. DO NOT put clear coated parts in a dehydrator as the outside layer will harden prior to the inside. It will never cure and will remain soft inside. So, try a few more coats and ample time for drying.
I’ve watched your videos and it appears you put multiple coats over the model and then let it dry. Do you recommend putting a coat on and let it dry for 15 minutes and then put another coat on or do you just put a coat on and by the time you’ve completed the model you start over in the area that you started because its semi dry by then?
@@jimkaminski871I sprayed one coat then continue with another at starting point. Do the whole body until it all looks wet and there are no different spots. You can also use a hair dryer to get the body dry for a bit then wait there it for days to clear. Do not use hair dryer on clear though.
hello Chris , congratulations , you are very good . Sorry for my English. I want to ask a question . because with the white liquid you used for glasses and for the bronze color you used wax Future ?
+J Griffiths Hello John. So sorry for delay on this. It was sent to my spam folder. I use a 0.3 needle in my Iwata airbrushes. Works great for models as we are not painting a large area at once.
Hi Chris, No worries Sir, many thanks for the info, I seem to be only able to use a 0.5 needle, I have tried smaller but just couldn't get them to work right for some reason, although I only have a cheap Chinese airbrush...
I have a large tip in my Iwata HP-C. Better for full coverage applications on a body. My NEO has a medium tip and does not get the same coverage of which can cause streaking in the paint. So for smaller parts or rust, dust, shading the Neo is great for that.
great video,, i tried it with some thinner prior to watching this,, ,, diddnt work so well ,, im going to try the washerfluid ,, and dropping my pressure ,, im new to this and have a siphon style gun, i look forward to seeing more .. thank you
Despite my best efforts when spraying, I get little wee bits of dust, and of course the occassional fine strand of pet hair. What is the best way to deal with the problem when it happens. As for the spray room issue. I've decided to buy one of those grow rooms. With the sealed enclosure and intake and exhaust system, you could add various filters to, it may prove a good plan. Easier than converting part of a room. Those mini spray booths simply don't solve the dust issue for me. So back to my problem. Do I simply polish out after it has had a chance to cure up, then re spray the impacted areas? Then gloss coat?
Hey Chris, I have been playing with armor models and Tamiya acrylics and am now just getting into cars. I have used Future with a Tamiya dull coat for my armor models and works well. I have heard that the future will crack over time. Have you heard of any such thing? Thanks for your time.
First time viewer. Just subscribed. Very awesome work and I love the tips for saving money on various frequently used items. I'm definitely a guy on a budget and I'm relegated to using rattle-cans as a proper airbrush/compressor is not currently on our budget. Do you recommend a particular airbrush/compressor brand or model that would give me reliability, versatility and still not send me into financial shock? These rattle-cans ain't cheap and the shipping is murder. Thx so much!
To be honest, a cheap harbor Freight compressor and an Iwata Neo is a great way to get started. Once you get the hang of it I would put some money into an Iwata HP-C. If you plan to use craft acrylic pain in the airbrush then you will pay for an Iwata HP-C quick from what you save from rattle cans. Best of luck and thanks for watching.
Thx! I’ve had a couple of HF compressors on visual for awhile but I’m not working due to Covid shutdown and money’s tight. Maybe I’ll win the lotto🤣. On a related subject, can you clarify something for me about panel line accents? I bought some by Tamiya only to find out it is apparently very “hot” and can make certain plastics brittle. I am finishing up a kit that was done using Rust-Oleum rattle cans, which actually gave me great results. I have heard that I need to apply a clear gloss coat prior to applying panel line accents, either that or Future. If I use the clear coat spray, will that then allow me to safely use the panel accent? And, if I use Future instead, can that be brushed on as I have no airbrush? Thx and sorry for the long-winded question. Your advice is much appreciated!
Excellent video Chris. A quick question. How do you get the paint to airbrush on smooth? I shoot craft acrylic mixed with future at 20psi. After airbrushing my paint always has a rough texture/finish.
You can try raising the air pressure higher. Depending on airbrush, needle , tip ,air, and temp. Play around with it at different psi's. Remember you can spray a body at 20 psi. Look it over and then rinse it off in the kitchen sink then respray at 25 psi and inspect rinse and respray again. Keep doing that until you get a good smooth finish. It will only cost .59 cents if you use a bottle of apple barrel from Walmart. Also flat colors lay down a lot smoother than glossy colors.
Hi Chris, Great video!! One question you said you don't prime first? Is this because you don't need to prime before using the acrylics or is this your preference? Thanks
It is just my preference. I look at it if I spend a little more time getting the body right I do not need to cover anything up with a primer. That way I do not have to spend all that time re sanding the primer to get it perfect. To me it is the same as prepping the body two times with the added expense of the primer as well. I also paint my enamel paints right onto the body as well with no primer. The acrylic and enamel paints have plenty of grip to stick to the body. If i use a lacquer based paint system I do use a primer as the lacquer can eat or damage the plastic. Using a lacquer I will just remove the mold lines and wash it then prime and sand it all smooth. No sense sanding the body smooth just to do it again with the primer. Thanks for watching and I hope my video's are of some help to you.
All automotive paints will work great. Just remember to ventilate, use a spray mask not a dust mask as automotive paints are lacquer based paints and can cause all kinds of health issue's. Please be careful around children and pets if you have any around while using them as well. That's why I switched to the acrylic craft paints. No toxic fumes and A huge cost difference. I can paint an entire model from the ground up with about 3 to 5 bucks worth of paint as opposed to 30 to 50 or more for lacquer based paints. Paid for my airbrush, compressor and paint booth with what I saved from the expensive paints.
Is it best to use flat acrylic or gloss acrylic paint ? I still want to do the future finish, just was wondering if the acrylic gloss paint would make the final finish any better. Thanks for the videos. George
Hello George. Sorry for delay responding. Just noticed your comment. In my personal opinion the flat paints lay down much nicer and smoother than the gloss paints. Also the gloss acrylic paints don't really leave much of a gloss shine. It's more of a dull sheen color. So my advice is pick a color and have fun but expect your shine to come from clear, polish and wax.
Please keep in mind all my painting is done with craft acrylic paint and my methods or products do not necessarily work with lacquer or enamel paints. Washer fluid breaks down the pigments for a smoother spray. Water works well if that's what you want to use. I used mop and shine until they changed their formula and I went back to using pledge floor care. Mop and shine was much cheaper at the time. So the reasons I use an acrylic based floor polish for clear coat is one; it's much cheaper than most hobby specific clear coats and will yield the same results if applied properly. I will admit it took me a while to figure it out but once I did it is well worth the savings. Second; It is clear of any harmful chemicals and vapors. I have major breathing and respiratory issues that require me to be on oxygen and a bipap machine to help me breath. The chemicals that are in the hobby specific clears are to dangerous for me to chance furthering my health conditions. Some acrylic clears have hit the market to be much safer but if it is hobby related products you will spend 10 times the amount for a much smaller amount than the floor care and get the same product and results. (ties again into reason number one lol). If living, painting or working in a small apartment, room or living area there are no fumes to fill up area and make for dangerous breathing and health conditions. No other adjacent apartments or rooms will be affected by floor care products such as lacquer based products. No scent with the acrylic floor care products that you get with a lacquer based product. So if these conditions are of no concern than there is nothing wrong with using the hobby based clear products at all. I always feel use what works for you if you are happy with the results you get. Thanks for watching and I hope this helped.
@@ChrisChapman195 cheaper, as long as it works, is always better. And fumes? I don't have space for a special work area except outside on the patio. But if I worked inside, the wife would complain about fumes. Despite her nail polish. LoL.
I have not. I have some to try but with my health issue's lacquer based paints are out for the time being. I do have a lot of friends that love them though. Use a 50/50 mix of Lacquer thinner and you should be good to go.
Excellent tutorial Chris! I have a question though. Can you mix gloss acrylics the same with the same results? I understand your mixing the Mop N Glow in for more of a shine to your paint. I would much rather convert all the way over to acrylics for price and health reasons and ease of clean up.
Hello Vince. Thanks for watching. First off, I used the mop and shine more to thin the paint then to make it shine. They actually changed the formula and now a lot of retailers quit selling it so I went back to using Pledge floor care for my shiny clear coat. I found it is much better and more cost effective to thin my paints with blue windshield washer fluid of which I use to clean my airbrush, paint brushes and messes on my desk lol. Also I get a much smoother lay down of my paints using the flat acrylics. Not to say you cant use the gloss ones. It just takes a lot of thin coats to make it shine and that makes for a thicker buildup of paint that makes detail and trim parts hat to detail. So put on whatever your paints you want, just make sure to rely on your shiny finish to come from your clear coat. You will be much happier if you do with the results.
@@coptor Just remember as you do this. If you have issue's go and rinse it off in the sink, rewash and airdry and start over. You can paint two to three bodies with a 2 oz bottle of paint. If you have to do it 6 times you still have not spent 1/4 th of what one bottle or can costs to paint one time lol. Don't get discouraged practice makes better and it's fun to play with. Let me know how it goes and good luck.
Yes, I forgot about that lol. I thin my paint with washer fluid at the Dame mix 50/50 as I do the la's totally awesome but since la"s changed there formula I use page floor care x2. si sorry about that.
I love your posts! I started with the chrome foil one. Up until now I have only used enamels for bodies, but I am very interested in this and might try it some day. One question I have is where did you get your clamps to hold your parts for spraying? That is a beautiful color combination.
Much appreciated there, Chris. I've always had such a problem with paint fumes from spray cans. And you say you didn't even need to prime coat the acrylic?
+Jim Ervin As long as you get the body and parts as straight, smooth and clean there is no reason to prime and hide blemishes. These craft acrylics are great.
hey chris wanted to give a shout out to you. I am presently using you model wiring diagram and it is working out great. i am eventually going to try the craft paint hopefully on my next build but really wanted to thank you for the great videos keep up the great videos. this is a first for me going this far with the detail. cant wait 69 plymouth gtx should be awesome, but am sure in the future i will have questions for you.....thank again
I've seen a few videos for putting vynle tops on model cars using masking tape.. Any tricks or tips for this method? To me it seems like masking tape wouldn't hold for long periods of time. I'm working on 70 Plymouth Cuda and I've seen vynle tops on them and I'd like to replicate that look on my model. Thanks
Thanks for the great help videos. I have been looking for a less expensive painting method and have tried this one. Problem is it is not working for me. Acrylic paint and Mop & Shine don't seem to be mixing and painting is coming out blotchy. I've done everything you are doing, same paint, Mop & Shine, 50/50 mix and even same spray equipment. 24psi. What am I doing wrong.Thanks so much for any advice you can give me.
+smurph1153 Hello bud, sorry to hear you are having problems. I have also encountered the same blotchiness. I found it is because I did not mix the paint and mop and shine well enough. I have since started using an electric paint mixer I got from Micro Mark. If you don't have one try to mix it in a jar with a lid and shake the be geesus out of it. I also learned you can leave the splochy on and it will cover up fine once the paint gets mixed well. I hope this helps and you get better results. Please keep me posted.
The acrylic paints stick well to the bare plastic. It will show every flaw so you have to make sure to prep the body and parts well. Which I believe makes you a better modeler. It will rub off if handled at first but the longer it cures the more durable it gets. I personally bake mine in a dehydrator for twelve hours or so. I then clear with pledge floor care which is just as hard as any other clear coat once dried.
I know you said you're not giving exact measurements on the consistency of the paint to wiper fluid, but eyeballing it, would you say that it's about half and half?
Yeseree bob. I usually start with a fifty fiftyishy mix. If its too thick I add more fluid too thin, more paint. I want it to be like 2% milk consistency. I have not seen or heard much from ya bud. I hope all is well.
Thanks a lot man really helps. Yeah everything is going ok, I just haven't had anything to put out because I have a few things that I haven't been able to get ahold of, but my birthday is coming up so I'm most likely going to be able to get back into it. Thanks for the concern also man.
That's how I do it. The future or floor polish will add a bonding agent allowing the diluted paint to stick to the item better than water or washing fluid since you have to dilute it so much.
Yes I do. I also break it down and clean it in a jewelry cleaner for a few rounds with washer fluid in it. That way it is like new every time I go to use it. You can get them on Amazon for less than 80.00.
I love this little mixer. www.amazon.com/Cordless-Mixer-for-Model-Paints/dp/B06XHLPZ45/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=hand+paint+mixer&qid=1611545042&sr=8-4
Hey Chris Great video -- I just discovered then on accident. I look forward to subscribing and watching them All! Can you tell me where you got your little battery operated mixing wand please? Thank You John G
Thank You Mr Chris just bought a mixer! Also I'm not into models yet but am getting into racing Hot Wheels -- would you change anything in your painting procedures for painting them (metal vs plastic)? Do you do this the Diecast cars and is c there a video series I can watch made by you? John G
You can brush it on as well. Thin the paint to a 50/50 mix of washer fluid and brush it on in thin layers. Let dry or use a blow dryer in between coats. Keep applying thin coats until you get the coverage you like. Thinning it will keep the brush marks away.
We'll done love the colors
If I could start to paint with craft acrylics all the time it would be so much easier and safer. Thank you for the video.
Great tutorial! I really wanted to try to use acrylics in the winter months so I could spray inside. This video will help immensely! Thanks for the video 😎👍
I hope it works out for ya. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video Chris, I also only use craft paints, but haven’t tried the washer fluid as a thinner yet. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching my friend.
I really enjoyed watching and learning from your video! There’s a lot of good knowledge! 👍💪🇺🇸 Best wishes from NWA!
Hello Mr. Chapman
After a 2+ decade absence from modeling, I've just returned. Folks like you have been terrific in updating me, on many new products and techniques.
I'm from the badger airbrush, and Testors/Humbrol enamels.
Budzik, Cranky, and yourself (and of course others) have made tremendous contributions to the hobby.
Thanks.
Those two colors work great together. Plain white would definitely not have looked as good as this one did. Plus, they're a good choice for a '58 Chevy. Do you ever put retarder or flow improver in your paint so it won't dry out as fast?
Thank you. These colors just naturally go together lol. I have never used retarder or flow improver. I get great results without it. Thanks for watching.
Great video Chris! Glad to see someone show all the good points of what you can do with craft acrylic paints!
Thank you. I hope it helped in some way or another.
Not sure what kind of airbrush you were using, is that an Eclipse HP-CS?
@@wwkdiecastmore5647 yes it was. Love that airbrush.
Hi Chris Chapman Big thank you for this jump start on getting back into model building-my first video was your bare metal foil how to...this acrylic paint ideal was one of my last pieces to add working on what type of airbrush n compressor to buy then l will be all set... thanks again 😄 n happy model building to the other modelers out there coming back to the family.
Glad you like it and sorry for delay replying back.
I use Craft Acrylics Alot most of Timei love them to paint Plastic Army Men
Hi Chris, excellent tutorials and a great way to build on a budget! I've watched all of your videos and must say, you & cranky are the reason I just bought my first airbrush after building models for 20+ years! I bought all of the primary colors in acrylic craft paint, a gallon of wiper fluid and some future. I hope to tackle my first kit this week. It's guys like you that motivate guys like me to try new things and perhaps step outside of our comfort zones....keep up the good work and I always look forward to your vids!
instaBlaster...
This video was a treasure trove of information. Thank you for your excellent work!
Glad you like it and sorry for delay replying back.
Awesome tutorial Chris.. iv been practicing on scrap bodies, starting to get the hang of it, but this video confirms l'm in the right direction. Thanks Chris ...love the color on the Impala
Thanks so much bud. Best thing is to get a 2 oz bottle of cheap paint then mix it with 2 oz of water. Now with four ounces of paint you can paint a body six or seven times. Spray entire body until it has a good coverage on it. Any runs or puddles means you went to slow or got to close. Now go rinse it off in the sink. Repaint. Continue to do this until you feel you have it down and then do it some more. In a few hours you will have it down and it cost .59 cents for a bottle of paint. Keep it up and I hope to see some progress vids soon bud.
Thanks for sharing Chris. Cant wait to start using the craft paint. You mention that u dont prime, just sand. What about ur small parts? Also do you sand the body before clear coat? Again thanks
Wonderful video Chris, I swear by the ANITA'S, Folk Art and Apple Barrel acrylic paints. All great tools to have in your shop.
Thanks bud. I really like them.
I bought 2 bottles of the Apple Barrel tonight at Walmart to try it and then stumbled onto your video, I was hoping it would work!
Did you get to try it yet?
@@ChrisChapman195 No but I will make time to try it tonight
@@donaldalbaugh3705 cool. Please let me know how it worked for you. If you have any problems let me know and I'll see if I can help.
Wow great color bro. I've got to try this. You make it so easy
It really is not hard.
Great video! I've been told that you couldn't use acrylic paints on model cars so Thank you for proving them wrong. :-)
Paul McWilliams lol, I still get told that but yet have a bunch of durst second and third place trophies given by the ones that say you can't use acrylic paints. Thanks for watching.
chris thank you for all your acrylic paint videos I just got started using an air brush and me and my 6 year old daughter started painting spoons and an old geral lee body and I tell ya what it was easy took a lot of my fears away knowing I can wash it off..lol but thank you for you and your videos very informing ,only thing I couldn't find was a video on the novus or um what ever it was call .and the wet sanding,buffing and making killer shine.
Thanks Frank. Glad you and your daughter are advancing in the hobby. I do have a video called polishing floor polish. Here is the link. Also when using acrylic paints you do not want to wet sand as it will reactivate the water basd paint and ruin the paint job. Watch the vid and I hope it helps you.
Part three: How to polish floor polish clear coat
Remember this is how to polish using Pledge Floor Care or any acrylic paint/clear coat.
I love your choice of car, colors and hub caps. Looks like maybe a scale larger than 1:25th scale? I’ve been experimenting airbrushing with craft paints and came across a DIY airbrush paint thinning mixture on UA-cam. One of them suggested staying away from windshield washer fluid “winter formulas” due to the harmful additives in the fluid(methanol?) that would be atomized using an airbrush. I’m still researching while I wait on my new airbrush delivery from Amazon, but was wondering what you thought. I like your technique using a hair dryer to assist drying the paint. Nice shine even before the clear coat. Thanks for sharing.
Beautiful work, Chris. You sir, are a true artist. I build models too. It's a great hobby... but I'm nowhere near the same league as you.
I am however going to try my first acrylic paint job on a '65 Corvette... thanks to you and your videos..
You need a website.
What an absolute treasure of a video, people shit so much on acrylic craft paint, but I've been using them for a long time now for my cars.
Thanks man. I love them. I am working on my first build in 3 years. Can't wait to spray.
@@ChrisChapman195 Good stuff my friend, good luck that build, post a video later to show how it turned out.
@@DGP406 will do an in fact I'm going to try to get a vids up tomorrow
Thank you for sharing Chris. great choice on colors. I am def gonna get those. I have been using the same acrylics and also wicked colors. fixing to watch your other to vids. haven't tried the floor polish. but gonna try. again thank you Bobby
Thanks for the reply. Not sure if you saw my disclaimer or not but the mop&shine does not shine anymore. I had to go back to pledges floor care polish. Not the wax. Hour this helps and I hope to see progress of your bills maybe?
Just learning about acrylic paint hope I can get good as you .
Looks awsome
That was great tip on Aluminum foil and elmer's glue. I will try that tip for sure.
I am new at all this and your tips were very helpful.
I am glad I can help bud. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I will get back to you as soon as I can.
Hey Chris good to see you
Nice vid can't wait for more thanks
+Scott Thurow Thanks Scott.
Hi Chris...im a newbie & wanna begin to air brush & would like to start with your methods with Acrylics.Did you just wet sand the body?.
Also do you recommend a single action brush for a beginner or jump right in off the bat with a dual action...i notice a lot of you guys on you tube have multiple brushes.
thank you for showing us that!!!!!!!! love the colour
Not a problem. Not as flashy and professional as some but it works I guess lol.
Hey there I use to live in Canada my friend loved it up there we owned a race track while living there got in alot of trouble in school for spelling color like this and not colour. Lol
Nice work and a great $$$ saver too.
Glad you like it and sorry for delay replying back.
Hi Chris, I'm watching your vid again to try to learn how to mix my craft better.
+Phil Freiberg Hi Phil, let me know how it goes.
So you just use windshield washer to thin your acrylics or 50/50 mix with water? Thx.
Chris, that was an excellent video, and a great tip on marking the parts you fill with CA & baking powder, I have to try that...color came out really nice....
Thanks Tommy. I hope there was some useful info in there somewhere lol.
Chris, I love your videos - What airbrush and needle size are you using? I have a Paasche H single action siphon brush and can’t get close to the results you get. Maybe it’s just me or maybe a different type brush is the answer I’m looking for. Thanks for any advice or direction you can offer. Steve
Thanks for the vid Chris. Today I spent a bunch of money on a few jars of Model Masters paint for a Richard Petty Nascar Model. I noticed the Craft Smart paint at Michaels was a lot cheaper. Its been a long time since I built any models but I've got a few I want to build.
Glad to see you back. I hope it all goes well. plesse keep me posted on your progress. I like to look as much as I like to build.
Very informative video, Chris. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I want to get more involved in the hobby on a budget. Your info helps a lot. I look forward to viewing your other videos. Best wishes, Mike
+omegaman73of3 Hey bud, thanks for watching and I do hope it helps you get involved. Looking forward to updates of your progress.
Great video thank you for sharing.
Hi Chris,
Many thanks for doing these videos Sir, they are a great help, I have just managed to buy myself some Deco Art craft acrylics so you timed this just right...
Since coming back to modelling and using an airbrush I have only use Vallejo acrylics, which are around £2:19 ($3.51) for a 17ml bottle, the Deco Art craft paint cost me £1:85 ($3:09) for a 59ml bottle, so already a HUGE saving for more than 3 times more paint...
Off to watch the floor polish video now, thank you once again Sir...
John...
Glad they are of use my friend.
Excellent my brother. Very nicely done and explained very well. Anyone should be able to watch this and after a few practice runs, be putting down fantastic paint jobs like this one. Well done and KUTGW!
Gary
Thank you Gary. I am no showman but I hope they help people.
i use primer and craft paint on my models and it does a realy good job.
Hi, Chris Chapman. Nice explanation about crafts acrylics paints. Of what i heard of others you-tubers is that they clog the airbrush. But the way you show us is cool to use it. In my country there is not a place where you can buy those big brands of paints like: (Testors, Tamyia, Vallejo, citadel, P3) we only have craft paints. I diluted my paints with alcohol when i want them to be airbrush type and with distilled water when i want a regular flow. But your way I think is much better. I can find in my country those products that you mentioned. Thanks for the tips! and by the way love your model car.
Thank you very much Anaya. Glad this was of help to you. If you don't mind, what country are you in?
P.R
Puerto Rico, I guess.
I havent had any clogs with any paint other than vallejo primers. For some reason they skin over very easily in the airbrush and clog it. I started using retardant for those primers.
Super skills. I love your work. Keep these great vids coming. Subscribed! Greetings from Switzerland.
Thanks so much bud. And welcome from America. Glad to have you aboard.
Hi Chris. Thanks for the videos. Would like to know what kind of airbrush and number needle you use.
GVJ MODELS
KEEP ON
BUILDING 🚀
That is awesome painting, Love that bronze!
Thanks Andie!
Excellent tutorial. I could not make the switch from airbrushing lacquers to acrylics. I have seen other videos where the instructor lightly sanded the surface to get the paint to bite. Do you do the same?
Hello Liel, Happy holidays. I sand my bodies with 800 to 1200 grit sandpaper. I do not use primer so I make it as smooth as I can so it will not show any blemishes. If you just scuff it so paint will grab it will show any scratches left behind.
I wonderif you mix the Floor Finish with paint and use as Brush
Good stuff love that color
Thank you Luey. Just about to do the floor polish vid. Just need to set up my phone. Thanks for watching.
Get it done haha I am eager to see it
how do you mix Acrylics gloss clear or do you put it in with the paint
Hello Kevin. The floor polish or most acrylic clears are already thin enough to spray straight fro the bottle. If it seems a little thick I use washer fluid.
Hi Chris:
It's interesting how you can keep applying paint and it doesn't run. I asume the air is drying the paint so fast that runs are not a problem. Is that correct?
Chuck
Hello Chuck. The reason the paint won't run is because of the very light coats of paint I put down with each pass. The paint dries almost instantly as there is not a lot of wet paint going onto the model. The air from the airbrush helps a little but mostly because acrylic paint dries extremely quick as there are no chemicals like lacquer in the paint of which take a long time to "gas out".
sorry for the multiple posts... have you found that acryls are durable? I know my oil based enamels and lacquers have lasted years (actually decades!) on my models. You are making me think maybe I should convert to or at least start incorporating acryls on my models.
Thanks again!!
Eric
I saw that you used a popsicle stick with your hood for painting. How did you hold up to the hood?
Double sided tape on the hood and stick. I get mine at the dollar store.
I`ve been using the Acrylics too but I simply thin them with water and then clear coat with automotive urethane. Cant beat it for durability but It`s interesting that you use the washer fluid and floor wax right in the paint. I am curious about the long term durability of this technique.
I have some models with this system that are 10 years old and look fantastic. I will let you know in another ten years how they are holding up :)
@@ChrisChapman195 I've never heard anyone give an explanation for the washer fluid. Why would glycol be any different or better than water in the acrylics. I've asked lots of guys but no one's ever been able to give me a logical chemistry answer, and where did this technique come from?
The only difference in my model building is that I sometimes get into restoration projects or body modifications where various flaws need to be filled and primed before I know the body looks right. But with acrylics, I also like the fact that you were able to hold the model without the problem of paint fumes. With canned spray paint, I'd have to place the body in my fume cabinet where it's not as easy to see.
+Jim Ervin Yea there is no chemicals or fumes but I still use a mask so I don't breath in overflow paint. Also I do the same when I am cutting and making modifications. The primer is needed to make sure it is all neat and clean.
Hey man thank you for your videos just getting back into modeling so find your videos very inspiring and informative thank you keep up the great work.
Thanks Chris!! I am surely going to try this!!
Like I said on your post. Spray and rinse off. You will learn in Donn Yost's video's that I am spraying my acrylics the same way as him. This is how you will spray all paints from acrylic, enamel and lacquer. If you are going to go with a clear coat in your airbrush you will spray it this way as well. So for .59 cents for 4 oz of paint you will not be able to learn any cheaper. Thanks for watching and have fun.
what needle size are you using in your airbrush? I can't seem to get craft paint to shoot through mine (Master G22, with 0.3mm needle) unless I thin it about 5:1, and end up getting terrible coverage with it so diluted.
I use a 5 needle. That seems to work best for me.
OK, Chris, I'm a little thick/ so do you mix the floor shine with the paint or just spray it on after?
I thin my paints with washer fluid then use flour polish for the clear coat after I spray the main color
@@ChrisChapman195 OK, thanks.
Did you ever try RIT dye in the Mop and Glo. The more dye the darker the candy look gets.
nice job chris great little video
Thank you!
Glad I came across this. Running out of rattle can colors. Tamiya is hard to come across at a decent price due to shipping fees. Only Hobby Lobby in my area and they roll with Testors.
I hope this helps and it works for you.
+Chris Chapman
This will definitely solve the issue of not finding the color I envision for the car.
Hi Chris
Hope your new year is starting off well. I know you spray mostly acrylics as do I. My question is how many coats do you apply? I’ve been applying two good coats and at least 2 good coats of floor polish. It doesn’t seem to take much to mar the paint while working on it though which makes me wonder if I’m applying enough paint. Recently I marred it with a toothpick while applying BMF. I was barely applying pressure to remove excess foil.
Thoughts??
Thanks for your help. 😀
I usually cover four to five medium coats. You also may need to let both paint and clear dry longer to fully harden. I bake mine after painting over night in a dehydrator or give at least a week prior to adding clear. Then I give the clear a week to air dry. DO NOT put clear coated parts in a dehydrator as the outside layer will harden prior to the inside. It will never cure and will remain soft inside. So, try a few more coats and ample time for drying.
Thank you sir,
I learn something new everyday.
I’ve watched your videos and it appears you put multiple coats over the model and then let it dry. Do you recommend putting a coat on and let it dry for 15 minutes and then put another coat on or do you just put a coat on and by the time you’ve completed the model you start over in the area that you started because its semi dry by then?
@@jimkaminski871I sprayed one coat then continue with another at starting point. Do the whole body until it all looks wet and there are no different spots. You can also use a hair dryer to get the body dry for a bit then wait there it for days to clear. Do not use hair dryer on clear though.
Great video !!! I am new to Airbrushing, What size needle do you use in your Airbrush ?
I use the number 3 needle in my Iwata HP. Practice, practice, practice my friend.
@@ChrisChapman195 Thank You !!!
hello Chris , congratulations , you are very good . Sorry for my English. I want to ask a question . because with the white liquid you used for glasses and for the bronze color you used wax Future ?
Nice paint job!
Thank you Robert
Hi Chris,
May I ask what size needle/nozzle you use in your airbrush please...
Many thanks...
John...
+J Griffiths Hello John. So sorry for delay on this. It was sent to my spam folder. I use a 0.3 needle in my Iwata airbrushes. Works great for models as we are not painting a large area at once.
Hi Chris,
No worries Sir, many thanks for the info, I seem to be only able to use a 0.5 needle, I have tried smaller but just couldn't get them to work right for some reason, although I only have a cheap Chinese airbrush...
Hey thanks. What size tip is your Iwata HP-C? Why do you use the NEO for detailing? What is the difference?
I have a large tip in my Iwata HP-C. Better for full coverage applications on a body. My NEO has a medium tip and does not get the same coverage of which can cause streaking in the paint. So for smaller parts or rust, dust, shading the Neo is great for that.
great video,, i tried it with some thinner prior to watching this,, ,, diddnt work so well ,, im going to try the washerfluid ,, and dropping my pressure ,, im new to this and have a siphon style gun, i look forward to seeing more .. thank you
Hey, thanks man. I hope the new techniques work well for you. If you have any questions let me know.
Nicely done video Chris! Check out the miniataire paint range from badger too. Great product and range for a reasonable price. -cc
Thanks for watching and thanks for the tip. I will check it out.
Despite my best efforts when spraying, I get little wee bits of dust, and of course the occassional fine strand of pet hair. What is the best way to deal with the problem when it happens.
As for the spray room issue. I've decided to buy one of those grow rooms. With the sealed enclosure and intake and exhaust system, you could add various filters to, it may prove a good plan. Easier than converting part of a room. Those mini spray booths simply don't solve the dust issue for me.
So back to my problem. Do I simply polish out after it has had a chance to cure up, then re spray the impacted areas? Then gloss coat?
Chris thank you for the info. Do you have a video on how to make a wash with acrylic?
mazdaspeedboy79 I believe I have a wash video in my tutorials. If not I may want to do one.
Hey Chris, I have been playing with armor models and Tamiya acrylics and am now just getting into cars. I have used Future with a Tamiya dull coat for my armor models and works well. I have heard that the future will crack over time. Have you heard of any such thing? Thanks for your time.
First time viewer. Just subscribed. Very awesome work and I love the tips for saving money on various frequently used items. I'm definitely a guy on a budget and I'm relegated to using rattle-cans as a proper airbrush/compressor is not currently on our budget. Do you recommend a particular airbrush/compressor brand or model that would give me reliability, versatility and still not send me into financial shock? These rattle-cans ain't cheap and the shipping is murder. Thx so much!
To be honest, a cheap harbor Freight compressor and an Iwata Neo is a great way to get started. Once you get the hang of it I would put some money into an Iwata HP-C. If you plan to use craft acrylic pain in the airbrush then you will pay for an Iwata HP-C quick from what you save from rattle cans. Best of luck and thanks for watching.
Thx! I’ve had a couple of HF compressors on visual for awhile but I’m not working due to Covid shutdown and money’s tight. Maybe I’ll win the lotto🤣. On a related subject, can you clarify something for me about panel line accents? I bought some by Tamiya only to find out it is apparently very “hot” and can make certain plastics brittle. I am finishing up a kit that was done using Rust-Oleum rattle cans, which actually gave me great results. I have heard that I need to apply a clear gloss coat prior to applying panel line accents, either that or Future. If I use the clear coat spray, will that then allow me to safely use the panel accent? And, if I use Future instead, can that be brushed on as I have no airbrush? Thx and sorry for the long-winded question. Your advice is much appreciated!
Excellent video Chris. A quick question. How do you get the paint to airbrush on smooth? I shoot craft acrylic mixed with future at 20psi. After airbrushing my paint always has a rough texture/finish.
You can try raising the air pressure higher. Depending on airbrush, needle , tip ,air, and temp. Play around with it at different psi's. Remember you can spray a body at 20 psi. Look it over and then rinse it off in the kitchen sink then respray at 25 psi and inspect rinse and respray again. Keep doing that until you get a good smooth finish. It will only cost .59 cents if you use a bottle of apple barrel from Walmart. Also flat colors lay down a lot smoother than glossy colors.
Hi Chris, Great video!! One question you said you don't prime first? Is this because you don't need to prime before using the acrylics or is this your preference? Thanks
It is just my preference. I look at it if I spend a little more time getting the body right I do not need to cover anything up with a primer. That way I do not have to spend all that time re sanding the primer to get it perfect. To me it is the same as prepping the body two times with the added expense of the primer as well. I also paint my enamel paints right onto the body as well with no primer. The acrylic and enamel paints have plenty of grip to stick to the body. If i use a lacquer based paint system I do use a primer as the lacquer can eat or damage the plastic. Using a lacquer I will just remove the mold lines and wash it then prime and sand it all smooth. No sense sanding the body smooth just to do it again with the primer. Thanks for watching and I hope my video's are of some help to you.
So, after it's dry it won't pull up where you mask? That's my biggest fear.
It´s awesome.
Thank you.
Will using real car spray paint and primer work? Just curious? Or do you really need an airbrush to this?
All automotive paints will work great. Just remember to ventilate, use a spray mask not a dust mask as automotive paints are lacquer based paints and can cause all kinds of health issue's. Please be careful around children and pets if you have any around while using them as well. That's why I switched to the acrylic craft paints. No toxic fumes and A huge cost difference. I can paint an entire model from the ground up with about 3 to 5 bucks worth of paint as opposed to 30 to 50 or more for lacquer based paints. Paid for my airbrush, compressor and paint booth with what I saved from the expensive paints.
@@ChrisChapman195 what if i painted it outside, is that a good area to do?
Hi Chris just starting to use Acrylics...really like the Aztek by Testors....are most of the acrylics you us sandable?
Sorry for delay. Busy with the holidays. I do light sand my acrylics if necessary. I have yet to use Aztec so not sure how sand able they are.
Is it best to use flat acrylic or gloss acrylic paint ? I still want to do the future finish, just was wondering if the acrylic gloss paint would make the final finish any better.
Thanks for the videos.
George
Hello George. Sorry for delay responding. Just noticed your comment. In my personal opinion the flat paints lay down much nicer and smoother than the gloss paints. Also the gloss acrylic paints don't really leave much of a gloss shine. It's more of a dull sheen color. So my advice is pick a color and have fun but expect your shine to come from clear, polish and wax.
@@ChrisChapman195 Thanks for the reply, have you ever heard of the Future finish cracking with age?
Why windshield washer fluid instead of something hobby specific? Is mop and glo really ad usable as opposed to a model specific clear coat?
Please keep in mind all my painting is done with craft acrylic paint and my methods or products do not necessarily work with lacquer or enamel paints. Washer fluid breaks down the pigments for a smoother spray. Water works well if that's what you want to use. I used mop and shine until they changed their formula and I went back to using pledge floor care. Mop and shine was much cheaper at the time. So the reasons I use an acrylic based floor polish for clear coat is one; it's much cheaper than most hobby specific clear coats and will yield the same results if applied properly. I will admit it took me a while to figure it out but once I did it is well worth the savings. Second; It is clear of any harmful chemicals and vapors. I have major breathing and respiratory issues that require me to be on oxygen and a bipap machine to help me breath. The chemicals that are in the hobby specific clears are to dangerous for me to chance furthering my health conditions. Some acrylic clears have hit the market to be much safer but if it is hobby related products you will spend 10 times the amount for a much smaller amount than the floor care and get the same product and results. (ties again into reason number one lol). If living, painting or working in a small apartment, room or living area there are no fumes to fill up area and make for dangerous breathing and health conditions. No other adjacent apartments or rooms will be affected by floor care products such as lacquer based products. No scent with the acrylic floor care products that you get with a lacquer based product. So if these conditions are of no concern than there is nothing wrong with using the hobby based clear products at all. I always feel use what works for you if you are happy with the results you get. Thanks for watching and I hope this helped.
@@ChrisChapman195 cheaper, as long as it works, is always better. And fumes? I don't have space for a special work area except outside on the patio. But if I worked inside, the wife would complain about fumes. Despite her nail polish. LoL.
LOL, I remember the nail polish remover smell.
Hi Chris, have you ever used nail polish on your models? What do you think about. Tks
I have not. I have some to try but with my health issue's lacquer based paints are out for the time being. I do have a lot of friends that love them though. Use a 50/50 mix of Lacquer thinner and you should be good to go.
@@ChrisChapman195 Tks man, get better soon.
@@mnbenites Thanks bud.
Excellent tutorial Chris! I have a question though. Can you mix gloss acrylics the same with the same results? I understand your mixing the Mop N Glow in for more of a shine to your paint. I would much rather convert all the way over to acrylics for price and health reasons and ease of clean up.
Hello Vince. Thanks for watching. First off, I used the mop and shine more to thin the paint then to make it shine. They actually changed the formula and now a lot of retailers quit selling it so I went back to using Pledge floor care for my shiny clear coat. I found it is much better and more cost effective to thin my paints with blue windshield washer fluid of which I use to clean my airbrush, paint brushes and messes on my desk lol. Also I get a much smoother lay down of my paints using the flat acrylics. Not to say you cant use the gloss ones. It just takes a lot of thin coats to make it shine and that makes for a thicker buildup of paint that makes detail and trim parts hat to detail. So put on whatever your paints you want, just make sure to rely on your shiny finish to come from your clear coat. You will be much happier if you do with the results.
@@ChrisChapman195 Thanks for clearing it up. I'm getting ready to try this. Really excited to see the turn out.
@@coptor Just remember as you do this. If you have issue's go and rinse it off in the sink, rewash and airdry and start over. You can paint two to three bodies with a 2 oz bottle of paint. If you have to do it 6 times you still have not spent 1/4 th of what one bottle or can costs to paint one time lol. Don't get discouraged practice makes better and it's fun to play with. Let me know how it goes and good luck.
Chris did I miss something? Didn't see you thin the bronze paint with your ww fluid, you just added totally awesome?
Yes, I forgot about that lol. I thin my paint with washer fluid at the Dame mix 50/50 as I do the la's totally awesome but since la"s changed there formula I use page floor care x2. si sorry about that.
Chris where did you get the plastc bottles one with windshield washer fluid
+Modelersjunkyard www.ebay.com/itm/8OZ-32OZ-Plastic-Squeeze-Bottle-Condiment-Dispenser-Ketchup-Mustard-Sauce-Vinega-/391207515226?var=&hash=item5b15c8f45a:m:m8_tl943WfGuINLr7BZcVNA
what brand and model is the airbrush you are using to spray the paint with?
I use the Iwata HP-C for all base coats and clear. I also use the Iwata NEO for small detail work.
I also mix Food Colirung With The Craft Paint
Esoecilalitu if iam using Neon Colors
In ScI FI related stuff
I love your posts! I started with the chrome foil one. Up until now I have only used enamels for bodies, but I am very interested in this and might try it some day. One question I have is where did you get your clamps to hold your parts for spraying?
That is a beautiful color combination.
Much appreciated there, Chris. I've always had such a problem with paint fumes from spray cans. And you say you didn't even need to prime coat the acrylic?
+Jim Ervin As long as you get the body and parts as straight, smooth and clean there is no reason to prime and hide blemishes. These craft acrylics are great.
hey chris wanted to give a shout out to you. I am presently using you model wiring diagram and it is working out great. i am eventually going to try the craft paint hopefully on my next build but really wanted to thank you for the great videos keep up the great videos. this is a first for me going this far with the detail. cant wait 69 plymouth gtx should be awesome, but am sure in the future i will have questions for you.....thank again
Thanks Michael. Please share your work and ask away. I will try to help the best I can.
Chris Chapman you can see my work at Mike's model page on fb
I've seen a few videos for putting vynle tops on model cars using masking tape.. Any tricks or tips for this method? To me it seems like masking tape wouldn't hold for long periods of time. I'm working on 70 Plymouth Cuda and I've seen vynle tops on them and I'd like to replicate that look on my model. Thanks
Great stuff chris!
Thank you Lou. I hope these vids can help.
They do! Createx Colors work well?
Louis Matarazzo Only used createx once but I did like they way it worked.
Very nice.
Thanks bud.
Thanks for the great help videos. I have been looking for a less expensive painting method and have tried this one. Problem is it is not working for me. Acrylic paint and Mop & Shine don't seem to be mixing and painting is coming out blotchy. I've done everything you are doing, same paint, Mop & Shine, 50/50 mix and even same spray equipment. 24psi. What am I doing wrong.Thanks so much for any advice you can give me.
+smurph1153 Hello bud, sorry to hear you are having problems. I have also encountered the same blotchiness. I found it is because I did not mix the paint and mop and shine well enough. I have since started using an electric paint mixer I got from Micro Mark. If you don't have one try to mix it in a jar with a lid and shake the be geesus out of it. I also learned you can leave the splochy on and it will cover up fine once the paint gets mixed well. I hope this helps and you get better results. Please keep me posted.
Very informative videos, do these paint have great adhesion to plastic scale model or do they chip off easily? Thanks !
The acrylic paints stick well to the bare plastic. It will show every flaw so you have to make sure to prep the body and parts well. Which I believe makes you a better modeler. It will rub off if handled at first but the longer it cures the more durable it gets. I personally bake mine in a dehydrator for twelve hours or so. I then clear with pledge floor care which is just as hard as any other clear coat once dried.
wow, dehydrator? do you have video tuts for that Chris? or maybe you should maybe if your time is free. Thanks
I know you said you're not giving exact measurements on the consistency of the paint to wiper fluid, but eyeballing it, would you say that it's about half and half?
Yeseree bob. I usually start with a fifty fiftyishy mix. If its too thick I add more fluid too thin, more paint. I want it to be like 2% milk consistency. I have not seen or heard much from ya bud. I hope all is well.
Thanks a lot man really helps. Yeah everything is going ok, I just haven't had anything to put out because I have a few things that I haven't been able to get ahold of, but my birthday is coming up so I'm most likely going to be able to get back into it. Thanks for the concern also man.
So if i want to wash a front grill black use future instead of water to dilute?
That's how I do it. The future or floor polish will add a bonding agent allowing the diluted paint to stick to the item better than water or washing fluid since you have to dilute it so much.
Do you use windshield washer fluid to clean your aribrush?
Yes I do. I also break it down and clean it in a jewelry cleaner for a few rounds with washer fluid in it. That way it is like new every time I go to use it. You can get them on Amazon for less than 80.00.
What is that tool u use to Mix the paint and dose it cost a lot. Ty
I love this little mixer. www.amazon.com/Cordless-Mixer-for-Model-Paints/dp/B06XHLPZ45/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=hand+paint+mixer&qid=1611545042&sr=8-4
Hey Chris Great video -- I just discovered then on accident. I look forward to subscribing and watching them All!
Can you tell me where you got your little battery operated mixing wand please?
Thank You
John G
Thanks Jon. I got the mixer from micro Marc
Thank You Mr Chris just bought a mixer! Also I'm not into models yet but am getting into racing Hot Wheels -- would you change anything in your painting procedures for painting them (metal vs plastic)? Do you do this the Diecast cars and is c there a video series I can watch made by you? John G
can you brush paint models with craft acrylics or only airbrush them?
You can brush it on as well. Thin the paint to a 50/50 mix of washer fluid and brush it on in thin layers. Let dry or use a blow dryer in between coats. Keep applying thin coats until you get the coverage you like. Thinning it will keep the brush marks away.
Chris Chapman
Thanks! Ill have to give this a try.