Lil heads up..... The tick started again after a long drive from Arizona to California. Most likely due to oil starvation. Sounds like the hydraulic lifters might be shot.... Just be sure your using 5w30 oil and bmw recommended oil filter or else your vanos won't work right. I'll post a new video
How many kilometers have this engine got when you first opened the valve cover and discovered the chain guide was loose? And what year is your car? Is it from 2006 with the silver cover? Not a common failure. Definitely rare. The ticking which made the N52 a hated engine is the hydraulic valve adjusters ticking caused by oil starvation to a bad design (the HVA units wear over time and cause the knocking noise during cold starts or shortly between drives. Usually this ticking goes away 3 minutes after driving, the time needed for the HVA units to lubricate. Solution is to change them or replace the whole cylinder head. A cheaper solution is to use Liqui Moly Ceratec which will smooth the worn surfaces of the HVA units allowing them to get proper lubrication very quickly preventing any ticking. It is weird for the chain guide to get loose while the chain tensioner is still healthy. You'd better check the chain tensioner for proper function. It definitely can cause the chain to get slightly slack and force the guide to get loose. There is also a retaining bolt on the back of the exhaust VANOS unit which is known to fail in case of continuous hard driving coupled with incorrect oil grade and quality.
Its been off and on. I just got this car about a year ago from my uncle. So its intermittently been going on for well over 5k miles. No damage to cams or anything. But since I tightened it, it hasn't cane back. Just be careful, I broke 1 of the bolts and it was a paaaaain to extract it out cause of the location.
Attention all, this is misinformation, please read below: Hey Zeke, I don't know if you realized this after you did some research or not, I hope I'm not wasting my breath here: I just wanted to say that the "slop" or "play" in the timing chain guide you're showing in this video is completely normal, the plastic guide has metal sleeve inserts in the mounting bolt holes and the metal sleeves are loosely fitted in the plastic hole in the chain guide (notice how those 2 bolts you're looking at are going into holes that are slightly slotted, but the sleeves are circular). Also the metal sleeves are slightly longer the than the thickness of the plastic chain guide, this is to prevent the bolts from cracking the plastic when they're being torqued down, the sleeve stops it before the bolt head makes contact with the plastic. So the upper half of the guide has "play" in both directions (up/down + in/out) The timing chain guide is 2 pieces, the other, lower piece is not visible here and doesn't have metal sleeve inserts in its mounting bolt holes because the bolts are different, they are "shoulder" bolts that use a hex key (or "internal allen") and the exposed portion of the bolt is smooth (unthreaded) and it doesn't have a head, so nothing can accidentally put pressure on the plastic guide, the bolts don't need heads because the front of the engine block keeps the lower half of the plastic chain guide from coming off.
What are you talking about???? This bolt had 0nm of torque to it.... the book states at least 8nm. U say its supposed to be loose? That bolt comes out ur looking at big time trouble. So ur the misinformed one bro
You guys want me to post another video in the morning turning on the car? Its been months since the fix n I haven't heard a damn thing since. Ill post tomorrow
It did! However, I ran my oil dry going from Arizona to California and it came back but most likely the noise are the lifters now and is most likely permanent. Different tick issue
Yes, although there is actually a third bolt more to the right and unfortunately the bolt broke n it was in the worst spot in the world to extract. Best think is purchasing new bolts to save u time, stress, n money
that gap in the chain guide is normal it won't tighten up u can by using a washer or something the tick your hearing is def lifters
Lil heads up..... The tick started again after a long drive from Arizona to California. Most likely due to oil starvation. Sounds like the hydraulic lifters might be shot.... Just be sure your using 5w30 oil and bmw recommended oil filter or else your vanos won't work right. I'll post a new video
Hii bro how did you fix the oil in intake??I get the same issues I replaced the pcv system and clean up my intake from oil.
How many kilometers have this engine got when you first opened the valve cover and discovered the chain guide was loose? And what year is your car? Is it from 2006 with the silver cover?
Not a common failure. Definitely rare.
The ticking which made the N52 a hated engine is the hydraulic valve adjusters ticking caused by oil starvation to a bad design (the HVA units wear over time and cause the knocking noise during cold starts or shortly between drives. Usually this ticking goes away 3 minutes after driving, the time needed for the HVA units to lubricate.
Solution is to change them or replace the whole cylinder head. A cheaper solution is to use Liqui Moly Ceratec which will smooth the worn surfaces of the HVA units allowing them to get proper lubrication very quickly preventing any ticking.
It is weird for the chain guide to get loose while the chain tensioner is still healthy.
You'd better check the chain tensioner for proper function. It definitely can cause the chain to get slightly slack and force the guide to get loose.
There is also a retaining bolt on the back of the exhaust VANOS unit which is known to fail in case of continuous hard driving coupled with incorrect oil grade and quality.
Its been off and on. I just got this car about a year ago from my uncle. So its intermittently been going on for well over 5k miles. No damage to cams or anything. But since I tightened it, it hasn't cane back. Just be careful, I broke 1 of the bolts and it was a paaaaain to extract it out cause of the location.
if you dont know how engine work not try teach this is a complete misinformation
They vent the crank case into the intake it gums up everything
This is super good info thanks for showing this.wish I had watched this before I changed my valve cover recently.
Attention all, this is misinformation, please read below:
Hey Zeke, I don't know if you realized this after you did some research or not, I hope I'm not wasting my breath here:
I just wanted to say that the "slop" or "play" in the timing chain guide you're showing in this video is completely normal, the plastic guide has metal sleeve inserts in the mounting bolt holes and the metal sleeves are loosely fitted in the plastic hole in the chain guide (notice how those 2 bolts you're looking at are going into holes that are slightly slotted, but the sleeves are circular). Also the metal sleeves are slightly longer the than the thickness of the plastic chain guide, this is to prevent the bolts from cracking the plastic when they're being torqued down, the sleeve stops it before the bolt head makes contact with the plastic. So the upper half of the guide has "play" in both directions (up/down + in/out) The timing chain guide is 2 pieces, the other, lower piece is not visible here and doesn't have metal sleeve inserts in its mounting bolt holes because the bolts are different, they are "shoulder" bolts that use a hex key (or "internal allen") and the exposed portion of the bolt is smooth (unthreaded) and it doesn't have a head, so nothing can accidentally put pressure on the plastic guide, the bolts don't need heads because the front of the engine block keeps the lower half of the plastic chain guide from coming off.
Perfect ! Ik don t think they get IT 😖
What are you talking about???? This bolt had 0nm of torque to it.... the book states at least 8nm. U say its supposed to be loose? That bolt comes out ur looking at big time trouble. So ur the misinformed one bro
@@zekedawgg1986 you are so wrong
The service manual is wrong????
You guys want me to post another video in the morning turning on the car? Its been months since the fix n I haven't heard a damn thing since. Ill post tomorrow
What solve the Tik ?
Cutting off my muffler..... LOL cant hear it at all now LOL
So did it fix it mines did the same thing?
It did! However, I ran my oil dry going from Arizona to California and it came back but most likely the noise are the lifters now and is most likely permanent. Different tick issue
@zekedawgg1986 yea I change the c
Ex cam and lifers only no more ticking
Dude it's supposed to move like that
You're telling me that engine oil is the same as vape juice.....?
No sir.
Just leave it bro lol
🤣🤣 only jokes bro. We've all started somewhere ya know? And I can bet that your knowledge on the n52 is a lot stronger a year later.
Thanks bro.... Yea they r good engines. It's all about maintenance. Happy Thanksgiving
And then you put it together and it still ticks
Nope. It worked
Bro can you give me a call I have a few questions I need to ask you becouse I have allot of the same issues
Did fixing that gap play stop the ticking?
Yes, although there is actually a third bolt more to the right and unfortunately the bolt broke n it was in the worst spot in the world to extract. Best think is purchasing new bolts to save u time, stress, n money
The guide is ment to move like that
IT met to be lose 🤦
Hey whats going on guyths!
This video should be deleted, complete misinformation