Hell of a journey thus far. Let me know if you have every experienced this type of outbreak. Interesting article on this here : www.reef2reef.com/threads/most-comprehensive-lyngbya-treatment-research-for-infected-reef-tanks.610603/
Hi CJ, I usually don't post comments but my tank went through some lyngbya recently too. I wanted to avoid using antibiotics and dosing bacteria so I tried a different approach. I heard this stuff is weak against peroxide so I did a double dose of reef medic for 10 days, allowing me to keep my skimmer on. This started to work a little so I decided to also buy a bunch of cow tongue nerites and they ate it all up once it was slightly weakened. I was also feeding extra during this time to boost nutrients, but stopped using aminos. I would say those nerites probably did most of the heavy lifting. Hope this helps.
If I were you, I wouldn’t do anything for a few months. Keep your nutrients in a good range, and be patient bro. The tank is young! This is fairly normal. I think it’s GHA that’s not in the best health.
agree, the tank is only 3 months old and its stocked heavy already. tank looks great, but expect to fight some stuff the first year of the tank being up.
Thanks for the shout-out CJ. Lyngbya is a real pain to get rid of. The only thing that has been able to help IME is competing bacteria. Mexican Turbo Snails will eat it, but eventually they'll get sick and die (2-3 months). It seems to thrive in ULNS and MarcoRocks type tanks that have no bacterial defenses. AF probiotic & Korallen-Zucht Cyano Clean and ZEObak both work. Fauna Marine ReBIOTIC and Therapy/Bacto Balls will help prevent most types of cyano, but probably take a month to work. Tidal Garden's had the same thing and misdiagnosed it as hair algae too, so you're in good company.
I had this and i started to dose microbacter 7. It got worse for me. A friend told me that microbacter 7 is an organic carbon source and will feed this cyano. UV and peroxide along with good nutrient control helped me contain it.
I have the same issue and used Flux Rx which helped and it came back but definitely weaker so just scrubbing the rocks every few days. I just hate it on my sand bed. I stir it up and it's back in a few hours with the lights on. Lights off it goes away a little. Just letting it go for a bit and let the tank mature a little longer
I fought this same algae with Microbacter 7 in a weekly dose and Microbacter Clean the 2 week dose direction on the bottle. Some other things I think helped while using this was blowing it off my rocks with a turkey baster whenever I could and scrubbing the rocks with a toothbrush during a water change. I think this helps the bacteria have less to compete with the cyano. I also cleaned the filter sock every morning as I noticed a lot would be collected in it with just 1 day and this stuff is toxic so any manual removal from the tank is good. You also want to make sure your nutrients don't bottom out while doing this either. Can't wait for your next video!
i know it's been a minute since you posted this but I had similar issues when I upgraded my lights and it's taken forever to get my phosphates down due to lacking biodiversity. I started dosing Microbacter Clean about 6 weeks ago but it takes at least 10 weeks for that bacterial succession to take hold provided there aren't other bacteria waging warfare on the Microbacter strains, this is according to Brightwell's documentation. Around the same time I upgraded my lights adding more LED pucks to the mix and I didn't adjust my intensity, thinking I would just have more spread but wow, did the cyano start to take off. I went on vacation and had the dosers running the spectrum of Microbacter Clean, Phos-E, etc and my phosphate levels were
Interesting testimony for sure because I also changed lights.. makes me wonder if the blade spectrum also fed this issue or if it was just imbalance of nutrients and good/bad bacteria. I am currently dosing mb clean and will start mb razor as I try to keep nutrients up and manually removing it as I can. This won’t be a instant fix by any means… thanks for watching 💪🏾💯
Loving the series for the new build. It's awesome that you maintain a positive mindset even during a struggle. Keep up the great work Cj, can't wait for the next one!
So I have had this the last four months, but only learnt what it was the last month from a dinoflagellate group. I have been fighting ostreopsis on and off for three years so I am reluctant to use any chemical products or antibiotics as I don't want them back. My research says nerite and cerith snails eat it, so I've ordered 20+ ceriths which do munch of the back wall. They say to avoid knocking it into the water column as it's quick to proliferate and regrow. So for this, I turn off all flow and Syphon as much as I can with a hose for a water change. Its worked very well over about four water changes. The stuff loves power heads, so each time I also took the power heads out and gave them a good clean in tap water. I have also been dosing modern reef biodiversity which may have been the kicker for Dino's since I started using it a few months back, along with regular trave element dosing and raised nutrients. I would implore you to use natural methods and bacteria rather than antibiotics as I know you have suffered with Dino's in the past too. Anything is better than Dino's.
I feel you my brother, I've been following u for the longest. I learned a lot from your videos and me personally I wanted to give up so many times. I have 4 tanks- 100 gallon 6ft salt water fish only,50 gln low boy with soft corals,40 breeder with discus and 10 gallon with kribensis. They finally have babies after 2yrs.
you got the type hat will be on rocks and glass but not the sand. suck out as much as possible first, run a UV at 5X tuank turn over, ensure your return is also at least 5X, suck out the new ones everyday. if you run socks, change them every morning. during the treatment, lower your light, turn off write channel if you can, maintain NO3 around 3-5ppm and PO4 around 0.05-0.08. after couple days you will notice the new grows slow down, keep it for another two weeks or so, you will be good. Good luck and happy reefing. OH! no amino or coral food during the treatment.
The corals look like they are on the way back up,I have seen someone talking about dosing with the peroxide,but you have to find out how much and how often. I know it's different,but in my freshwater tanks I have sprayed what is Blackbeard Algae that's ugly black hair and it does kill it with a few treatments,outside the tank tho. Stay on it.✌🐟
I had a BAD red slime cyano outbreak and dinos over a year ago. I have been riding it out. Do you think that having seachem safe to add when you does to help with detoxifying? Might not be the right thing, but maybe worth looking?
Thanks for this video. I have this exact issue. I can confirm that Chemi clean doesn't work. It will kill the red, but not this brown stuff. Ive had this issue for about 8 months of the tank's 1 year 3 month life. I'm almost out of the hobby, so I'm hoping you can crack the code. good luck
Honestly I would not do too much besides manual removal and water changes. In my experience frequent water changes are crucial for new tanks. You can also dose peroxide to the tank. I have done this for 4 months in my build. If you do this there are post on Humblefish showing how much to use but I stress the fact that you should ramp up to the dose you need over a few weeks. There are other side benefits you will gain but go slow. Between UV and peroxide and water changes I was able to beat several things that were hurting my system. It will take time but you will not have to go the nuclear options. If you do go the route of bacteria look into home made coral snow. Sunnyx has good info on a day formula that will help clean up the tank. I do this once a week after I stir things up and do a water change. Be patient. Good luck.
I’m going through a similar issue in my tank. Until now I just figured it was hair algae as part of my ugly stage. I’ve got that same brown hair looking stuff all over my rocks and this would explain why I’ve been losing some of my cuc including a Tomini tang after they eat the stuff. My rodi is well past due for a replacement so that also could explain how it got into my tank. Please update on your progress with the microbacter treatment as I might have to give it a try.
This makes me glad I shared this video… as I too assumed it was just algae and in doing so wiped out a ton of coral when it all died off in the tank. As always I’ll keep everyone updated on progress 💪🏾
It’s interesting that cyano in reefing is associated with low nutrients but red tide, which I believe is cyano is believed to be caused by high nutrients.
I might have had this in my tank early on. It was either what you have or an insane diatom infestation to the point they were fluff hairs on the rock. I tried multiple UV sterilizers also as my water was constantly cloudy or slightly haze and the UV did not do anything at all which I thought was impossible? Are you having any bit of cloudiness in the water?
This might sound silly but leave the tank to do his thing, do small weekly water change and don't use anything. I have seen lawnmower blenny eating this stuff.
I used to dose microbacter 7 with every water change I did for about the first year. Not sure if that helped with my success but never hurt that I could tell.
I highly suggest Cyano clean bro by Korallen zucht which is bacteria that will outcompete it and coral snow for the skimmer to export it!! Bulk reef supply has it in stock!!
@@CJSAQUARIUMS I had some form of cyano as well as hair algae in my frag tank, and I treated it with these products and now my frag tank is spotless within a few weeks
I have had the same stuff in my tank (didn't know what it was called until watching this video) and yes it killed most of my sps to. I would scrape it off using a toothbrush and it would get in the water column and irritate and kill my coral. Terrible stuff.
This is normal using dry rock. You will go through a long frustrating cycle. Sometimes it can take up to a year with some dry rock. Am not saying you tank will. It’s just a timeline. Keep your nitrates around.5 of phosphate a .03-5. Not chasing numbers. Dose nothing. Reduce the amount of light to 6 hours as the tank matures increases the amount of light. Be patient
I’m fighting the same thing at the moment MicroBacter Clean every morning and Top Crown Snails Lithopoma undosum. Three weeks of dosing daily I’ve started to see improvement
@@CJSAQUARIUMS Top Crown Snails are hard to find at times but they are the only snail I have that eats this stuff also Reef Cleaners claims the Ragged Sea Hare eats Lyngbya spp
C’j your whole setup is top notch all the way but the gear you have supporting that tank I would of went with a 100 gallon or better cube more water volume is more fire giving I foregot how much water volume you have but seems like a 60 gallon plus sump imo but you have way more fear than me and I have a 150 g
@@CJSAQUARIUMS I get it better to play it safe I’m on a first floor of a two family home I rent but I’m getting my home really soon and there’s not gonna be no expense I’m planning to skimp in probably get a 220 or 180 I just like there foot print but your tank will get by all the uglies like mine did I just have a severe aptasia problem I’m going to address with nudibranchs Jeep up the great work and vids live em. Peace
I got what looks to be the same thing in my tank. I just left it for now as it’s only noticeable on the back of the rocks in medium to low flow areas. It does bug me and I am planning on going in the tank and brushing with a toothbrush covered in peroxide then do a water change.
@@CJSAQUARIUMS then you should be good to go as far as those bacterial blooms give it time Manuel basting net it out suck it out put tank on cruise control should be good in no time don’t add to many chemicals as far as removal let it ride it out with your husbandry and you know what I’m saying it should be fine 👍🏼
You're backwards ma dood...the only thing that you need to know is that you were incredibly fast with the inhabitants, acting as if your tank was mature and that simply is not the case. Cycling and Mature are two totally different things. Your tank may be cycled which means you can slowly add life, keyword being "slowly" BUT it is not "mature" which generally takes a year plus for this stage, some even more depending on husbandry and knowledge. Solving for specific issues like particular bacteria/algae etc. is a secondary issue caused by the lack of knowledge regarding maturity. You will continue to have these problems if your inhabitants is still this abundant this early in your tanks existence. The goal of this hobby should be to keep your money in the tank.
Not sure if I gave off the thinking my tank is mature vibe. This is more if a experiential tank start using methods never have before and sharing the experience with everyone as it goes. I’ve seen insta tanks setup and ran successfully… also seen them fail. Ultimate goal is learning and keeping all money in the tank as you said… this is where we are wit it now tho so gotta see it thru 💯
I had this issue a year ago in a Lil 14g nano. I did the mb7 & clean dosing it helped a little but didn't cure it, be aware mb7 lowers no3 & po4. Then I installed a UV it also helped a little. Then after doing those 3 things and manual removal for a month I got tired of waiting and watching my corals suffer so I treated the tank with chemiclean and poof gone all the cyano within a few days. After treatment I did a few water changes more than it called for and I never had the problem again. Cyano happens almost always on newer tanks. Once your tank matures more your bacteria population will keep the cyano away along as po4 don't bottom out you'll be good. Keep fighting the good fight my man 🫡
Hell of a journey thus far. Let me know if you have every experienced this type of outbreak. Interesting article on this here : www.reef2reef.com/threads/most-comprehensive-lyngbya-treatment-research-for-infected-reef-tanks.610603/
Hi CJ, I usually don't post comments but my tank went through some lyngbya recently too. I wanted to avoid using antibiotics and dosing bacteria so I tried a different approach. I heard this stuff is weak against peroxide so I did a double dose of reef medic for 10 days, allowing me to keep my skimmer on. This started to work a little so I decided to also buy a bunch of cow tongue nerites and they ate it all up once it was slightly weakened. I was also feeding extra during this time to boost nutrients, but stopped using aminos. I would say those nerites probably did most of the heavy lifting. Hope this helps.
If I were you, I wouldn’t do anything for a few months. Keep your nutrients in a good range, and be patient bro. The tank is young! This is fairly normal. I think it’s GHA that’s not in the best health.
agree, the tank is only 3 months old and its stocked heavy already. tank looks great, but expect to fight some stuff the first year of the tank being up.
Thanks for the shout-out CJ. Lyngbya is a real pain to get rid of. The only thing that has been able to help IME is competing bacteria. Mexican Turbo Snails will eat it, but eventually they'll get sick and die (2-3 months). It seems to thrive in ULNS and MarcoRocks type tanks that have no bacterial defenses. AF probiotic & Korallen-Zucht Cyano Clean and ZEObak both work. Fauna Marine ReBIOTIC and Therapy/Bacto Balls will help prevent most types of cyano, but probably take a month to work. Tidal Garden's had the same thing and misdiagnosed it as hair algae too, so you're in good company.
Doing my part to help raise awareness thanks for the info I’ll look into em 🫡💯
I had this and i started to dose microbacter 7. It got worse for me. A friend told me that microbacter 7 is an organic carbon source and will feed this cyano. UV and peroxide along with good nutrient control helped me contain it.
I have the same issue and used Flux Rx which helped and it came back but definitely weaker so just scrubbing the rocks every few days. I just hate it on my sand bed. I stir it up and it's back in a few hours with the lights on. Lights off it goes away a little. Just letting it go for a bit and let the tank mature a little longer
@@aceonemg try peroxide
I fought this same algae with Microbacter 7 in a weekly dose and Microbacter Clean the 2 week dose direction on the bottle. Some other things I think helped while using this was blowing it off my rocks with a turkey baster whenever I could and scrubbing the rocks with a toothbrush during a water change. I think this helps the bacteria have less to compete with the cyano. I also cleaned the filter sock every morning as I noticed a lot would be collected in it with just 1 day and this stuff is toxic so any manual removal from the tank is good. You also want to make sure your nutrients don't bottom out while doing this either. Can't wait for your next video!
i know it's been a minute since you posted this but I had similar issues when I upgraded my lights and it's taken forever to get my phosphates down due to lacking biodiversity. I started dosing Microbacter Clean about 6 weeks ago but it takes at least 10 weeks for that bacterial succession to take hold provided there aren't other bacteria waging warfare on the Microbacter strains, this is according to Brightwell's documentation. Around the same time I upgraded my lights adding more LED pucks to the mix and I didn't adjust my intensity, thinking I would just have more spread but wow, did the cyano start to take off. I went on vacation and had the dosers running the spectrum of Microbacter Clean, Phos-E, etc and my phosphate levels were
Interesting testimony for sure because I also changed lights.. makes me wonder if the blade spectrum also fed this issue or if it was just imbalance of nutrients and good/bad bacteria. I am currently dosing mb clean and will start mb razor as I try to keep nutrients up and manually removing it as I can. This won’t be a instant fix by any means… thanks for watching 💪🏾💯
Loving the series for the new build. It's awesome that you maintain a positive mindset even during a struggle. Keep up the great work Cj, can't wait for the next one!
Good you accepted the bacteria issue for what it is.
Dang that sucks hope you figure it out soon, I’ll keep watching
So I have had this the last four months, but only learnt what it was the last month from a dinoflagellate group. I have been fighting ostreopsis on and off for three years so I am reluctant to use any chemical products or antibiotics as I don't want them back. My research says nerite and cerith snails eat it, so I've ordered 20+ ceriths which do munch of the back wall. They say to avoid knocking it into the water column as it's quick to proliferate and regrow. So for this, I turn off all flow and Syphon as much as I can with a hose for a water change. Its worked very well over about four water changes. The stuff loves power heads, so each time I also took the power heads out and gave them a good clean in tap water. I have also been dosing modern reef biodiversity which may have been the kicker for Dino's since I started using it a few months back, along with regular trave element dosing and raised nutrients. I would implore you to use natural methods and bacteria rather than antibiotics as I know you have suffered with Dino's in the past too. Anything is better than Dino's.
Hi Cj. Thank for this learning video. It really helps a lot. More then you know
🫡 no problem just sharing the ride… it’s always gets greater later
I feel you my brother, I've been following u for the longest. I learned a lot from your videos and me personally I wanted to give up so many times. I have 4 tanks- 100 gallon 6ft salt water fish only,50 gln low boy with soft corals,40 breeder with discus and 10 gallon with kribensis. They finally have babies after 2yrs.
you got the type hat will be on rocks and glass but not the sand. suck out as much as possible first, run a UV at 5X tuank turn over, ensure your return is also at least 5X, suck out the new ones everyday. if you run socks, change them every morning. during the treatment, lower your light, turn off write channel if you can, maintain NO3 around 3-5ppm and PO4 around 0.05-0.08. after couple days you will notice the new grows slow down, keep it for another two weeks or so, you will be good. Good luck and happy reefing. OH! no amino or coral food during the treatment.
I think I have had the exact same things now it's turned into a greenish covering? Not hair but really short. Urchins and turbos love it?
Mine was never green I think you may have something else
The corals look like they are on the way back up,I have seen someone talking about dosing with the peroxide,but you have to find out how much and how often. I know it's different,but in my freshwater tanks I have sprayed what is Blackbeard Algae that's ugly black hair and it does kill it with a few treatments,outside the tank tho. Stay on it.✌🐟
I had a BAD red slime cyano outbreak and dinos over a year ago. I have been riding it out. Do you think that having seachem safe to add when you does to help with detoxifying? Might not be the right thing, but maybe worth looking?
This looks exactly what I am dealing with!!
I’m guess the micro bacter didn’t do anything based on your later video???
Correct my fix ended up being Combo of chemo clean and reef flux combined 1/2 dose be sure to watch the cure video for all details
Thanks for this video. I have this exact issue. I can confirm that Chemi clean doesn't work. It will kill the red, but not this brown stuff. Ive had this issue for about 8 months of the tank's 1 year 3 month life. I'm almost out of the hobby, so I'm hoping you can crack the code. good luck
Honestly I would not do too much besides manual removal and water changes. In my experience frequent water changes are crucial for new tanks. You can also dose peroxide to the tank. I have done this for 4 months in my build. If you do this there are post on Humblefish showing how much to use but I stress the fact that you should ramp up to the dose you need over a few weeks. There are other side benefits you will gain but go slow. Between UV and peroxide and water changes I was able to beat several things that were hurting my system. It will take time but you will not have to go the nuclear options. If you do go the route of bacteria look into home made coral snow. Sunnyx has good info on a day formula that will help clean up the tank. I do this once a week after I stir things up and do a water change. Be patient. Good luck.
CJ the science guy didn’t know you were a marine biologist thanks for the molecular nutrient lesson all of that went right over my head 🤔
I’m going through a similar issue in my tank. Until now I just figured it was hair algae as part of my ugly stage. I’ve got that same brown hair looking stuff all over my rocks and this would explain why I’ve been losing some of my cuc including a Tomini tang after they eat the stuff. My rodi is well past due for a replacement so that also could explain how it got into my tank. Please update on your progress with the microbacter treatment as I might have to give it a try.
This makes me glad I shared this video… as I too assumed it was just algae and in doing so wiped out a ton of coral when it all died off in the tank. As always I’ll keep everyone updated on progress 💪🏾
good to know 👍👊👍
It’s interesting that cyano in reefing is associated with low nutrients but red tide, which I believe is cyano is believed to be caused by high nutrients.
I might have had this in my tank early on. It was either what you have or an insane diatom infestation to the point they were fluff hairs on the rock. I tried multiple UV sterilizers also as my water was constantly cloudy or slightly haze and the UV did not do anything at all which I thought was impossible? Are you having any bit of cloudiness in the water?
Water stays clear i do run a UV but it’s tuned to focus on parasites not bacteria
This might sound silly but leave the tank to do his thing, do small weekly water change and don't use anything. I have seen lawnmower blenny eating this stuff.
Is the algae on the rock green if you just have white light on?
No brown
I used to dose microbacter 7 with every water change I did for about the first year. Not sure if that helped with my success but never hurt that I could tell.
I highly suggest Cyano clean bro by Korallen zucht which is bacteria that will outcompete it and coral snow for the skimmer to export it!! Bulk reef supply has it in stock!!
Personal experiences with those fighting this? I’ll do some how work on it 💯
@@CJSAQUARIUMS I had some form of cyano as well as hair algae in my frag tank, and I treated it with these products and now my frag tank is spotless within a few weeks
I have had the same stuff in my tank (didn't know what it was called until watching this video) and yes it killed most of my sps to. I would scrape it off using a toothbrush and it would get in the water column and irritate and kill my coral. Terrible stuff.
I believe i had this also when my phosphate was super low. I raised my phosphate and it eventually turned white and died off. My tank was young also.
This is normal using dry rock. You will go through a long frustrating cycle. Sometimes it can take up to a year with some dry rock. Am not saying you tank will. It’s just a timeline. Keep your nitrates around.5 of phosphate a .03-5. Not chasing numbers. Dose nothing. Reduce the amount of light to 6 hours as the tank matures increases the amount of light. Be patient
Your Phosphate level is .02-.03 or 0.2-0.3?
I’m fighting the same thing at the moment MicroBacter Clean every morning and Top Crown Snails Lithopoma undosum. Three weeks of dosing daily I’ve started to see improvement
Good to hear… Trochus snails don’t seem to touch this stuff
@@CJSAQUARIUMS Top Crown Snails are hard to find at times but they are the only snail I have that eats this stuff also Reef Cleaners claims the Ragged Sea Hare eats Lyngbya spp
C’j your whole setup is top notch all the way but the gear you have supporting that tank I would of went with a 100 gallon or better cube more water volume is more fire giving I foregot how much water volume you have but seems like a 60 gallon plus sump imo but you have way more fear than me and I have a 150 g
I’m On the 2nd floor.. 100EXT was my first choice but can’t trust it 👌🏾
@@CJSAQUARIUMS I get it better to play it safe I’m on a first floor of a two family home I rent but I’m getting my home really soon and there’s not gonna be no expense I’m planning to skimp in probably get a 220 or 180 I just like there foot print but your tank will get by all the uglies like mine did I just have a severe aptasia problem I’m going to address with nudibranchs Jeep up the great work and vids live em. Peace
I got what looks to be the same thing in my tank. I just left it for now as it’s only noticeable on the back of the rocks in medium to low flow areas. It does bug me and I am planning on going in the tank and brushing with a toothbrush covered in peroxide then do a water change.
Are you running uv?
Yes 25w Pentair
@@CJSAQUARIUMS then you should be good to go as far as those bacterial blooms give it time Manuel basting net it out suck it out put tank on cruise control should be good in no time don’t add to many chemicals as far as removal let it ride it out with your husbandry and you know what I’m saying it should be fine 👍🏼
Uv sterilizer should help
One cap full of microbacter 7 every day for a month to increase bacteria until tank matures. 💯
You're backwards ma dood...the only thing that you need to know is that you were incredibly fast with the inhabitants, acting as if your tank was mature and that simply is not the case. Cycling and Mature are two totally different things. Your tank may be cycled which means you can slowly add life, keyword being "slowly" BUT it is not "mature" which generally takes a year plus for this stage, some even more depending on husbandry and knowledge. Solving for specific issues like particular bacteria/algae etc. is a secondary issue caused by the lack of knowledge regarding maturity. You will continue to have these problems if your inhabitants is still this abundant this early in your tanks existence. The goal of this hobby should be to keep your money in the tank.
Not sure if I gave off the thinking my tank is mature vibe. This is more if a experiential tank start using methods never have before and sharing the experience with everyone as it goes. I’ve seen insta tanks setup and ran successfully… also seen them fail. Ultimate goal is learning and keeping all money in the tank as you said… this is where we are wit it now tho so gotta see it thru 💯
Dude i have the same problem that you have but i used CHEMICLEAN and it works just dose less that what the instruction say
I think you tank is just trying to mature naturally every change will have a balancing effect
Why not put in a rock have it grow on it and Take it out try solutions out of tank
I had this issue a year ago in a Lil 14g nano. I did the mb7 & clean dosing it helped a little but didn't cure it, be aware mb7 lowers no3 & po4. Then I installed a UV it also helped a little. Then after doing those 3 things and manual removal for a month I got tired of waiting and watching my corals suffer so I treated the tank with chemiclean and poof gone all the cyano within a few days. After treatment I did a few water changes more than it called for and I never had the problem again. Cyano happens almost always on newer tanks. Once your tank matures more your bacteria population will keep the cyano away along as po4 don't bottom out you'll be good. Keep fighting the good fight my man 🫡
The crash was cause by rushing. And the rest followed through.
Very insightful… thanks for tapping in 👌🏾
@@CJSAQUARIUMS keeping it real. That's all.