Yes, we thought about rubber washers / matting / insulation. Yes, it’s not the best turbine. The noise from not only the vibration, but the wind was that severe I don’t believe it would have made a substantial enough difference. All in all, the output vs inconvenience made it not worth keeping. I shall be trying again in a different situation with a much better reported on turbine. This is my own personal R&D peeps, if you’re mean to one another, I won’t keep sharing it 😁 The outcome on this video is, basically forget them unless you're really high off the ground. The "capacity factor" of wind is hopeless domestically in most cases, and really quite good commercially where they are up in the smooth fast wind and away from effects of vibration. www.notion.so/smartfew/The-Physics-of-Wind-Power-9faf42cec03e419f9f043ec3352ed113?pvs=4
I definitely feel like some mechanical isolation would have helped - the hollow hull of a boat is a great resonator. But at best you'd be reducing the noise inside, and it'd still be causing a racket outside from the noise of it whipping. Wouldn't be surprised if those propeller tips were going supersonic. Definitely need a system with overspeed protection. I always thought about making a turbine from scratch myself (I actually have a 3d printed main blade-body-thing of a vertical axis wind turbine sat in the basement... I printed it and then the misses told me there was no chance I was sticking it to the garage) and wondered how well you could slow down the spinning just dumping the energy down to a power resistor.. if you've ever tried to spin a motor/generator with a massive load or a dead short on it you'll know how much sticking force it can apply. I doubt its enough to properly stop a turbine in this kind of wind, but I always wanted to know what difference it would make. Especially since the blade would still have to spin to generate the power to then dump as heat to slow itself down... always wondered where the equilibrium would come out for a given windspeed compared to just free spinning. EDIT: lol nvm, should have left the last bit till i was more than a couple of minutes in and you dead shorted it to slow it down.
the big question is not the noise, but what power? Was it worth it if it weren't for the noise? Initially I thought highly of wind turbines until I really got into it. If you don't have a space problem, I reckon these days that solar is always easier, has longer lifetime, less wear, and has a deterministic power delivery for the same price. You know you will get less power, but even in the winter there are no days that you don't get any power at all. However, you might have to reconfigure your wintertime setup to 1 long string with a switch maybe?
Acoustic consultant here. Cory is 100% right. The noise is from the blades on the turbine. You’ll get some vibration transfer through the pole but the noise source is the wind turbulence from the blades and the airborne noise from that. If the owner doesn’t like the noise you’re never going to make it go away in a cost effective way. It just sounds too distinctive.
The real issue is poor generator design. It doesn't have enough phases or if it has a laminated steel stator the slots need to have an angle to them. The noise comes from what's known as cogging torque and this significantly affects the start up wind speed. It comes from magnets meeting too many coils at once. Spinning the shaft it feels like lumps of higher resistance. A good wind turbine generator should apply a reasonably smooth torque to the shaft. This will reduce the amount of vibration it creates.
can I suggest that you simply 'rubber' isolate it from the metal of the boat. Metal on metal always transmits noise/vibration. rubber is the insulator! I had a similar problem a few months ago, where I mounted a remote oil filter to make access to oil filter on my car easier. mounted it to the firewall, for super easy access. Only problem was the howl it made, as I had a metal remote oil filter housing mated to the metal firewall .. i sounded like a broken gear. I subsequently isolated the metal oil filter housing using some rubber feet, noise totally gone. So I would reckon that had you had some sturdy rubber strapping between pole and mounts on the boat, you would have at least cut the noise or maybe even totally ridden yourselves of it. If you have a metal shed you could experiment with where it's easy and safer than high up on the boat.
Shorting the cables before the regulator would reduce the speed likely much more as there would be no regulator or diode voltage drop. That is how most wind regulators work with large braking resistors for too strong wind
Sailing boats have had these in various evolutions for three decades. Mounting them and living with them is still a black art sometimes! But, the output at night is brilliant 😂 A hollow thin walled metal pole bolted onto a hollow thin steel box boat is probably the worst combo imho.. Great job and video getting it done
If the one battery is 10V but your pack voltage is 23V you have pretty bad imbalance which will mean failure of the pack pretty quickly. Have you considered adding in a battery balancer for long term use?
They’re in series - I’m not sure what will happen without a balancer (I guess one battery will be charged “harder” - until the overall voltage reaches 24v?). At least there won’t be a big rush of current between misbalanced cells I guess. I’d also get a rubber cap for that exposed connector upstairs before a wave soaks it!
Was the wince fused or wired straight to the battery? i would change each battery in parallel with a 12v charger. This imbalance could overvolt one battery.
Recently found your channel and it's quickly becoming one of my favorites. I thought to myself when I watched the installation of the wind turbine, -"Those things are quite noisy and how will that go mounted to the boat like that".. Well, I guess I got the answer in this video :)
Me too, I ended up going back and watching every episode from the start over Christmas, and actually I feel proud of Cory. You can see the development so quickly in the channel / business / characters. I highly recommend it.
Look Cory, you deserve every help and support in all that you’re doing, I only wish you every blessed blessing in all your accomplishments and achievements, your brilliant and (sorry Artisans, seriously nothing against you), so glad you made that move to go on your own.
I know for a fact it does the same if you fasten it to a wall of a house! I've done it! A bit of rubber is wrapped around the pole where the clamps are. Don't tighten up the nuts too tight. Use another nut to lock the clamp up. helps a lot.
whats the IP rating of an Anderson connector? I am guessing around IP31, the salt water WILL kill this in short order, why not stick a nice plastic project box with a door, ip68 glands either end and leave the Andersons inside it, so you can just open door and connect/ dis connect them when needed. Happy dayz :-)
Gory great video . Sure you can come up with vibration isolation as suggested there bound to by bespoke rubber products that will do that job well.One small thing mount the Henderson connector in a water tight box put a 4or 5mm drain hole in the bottom and also enter all cables in the bottom . My apprenticeship included shipping work water always managed to get in water tight boxes drilling a drainage hole solved the problem which am sure you no .Hope to see the next video refitting to wind turbine
An awesome video as always. Having fitted a few wind generators to yachts over the years, keeping the noise down when it’s windy enough for them to be productive is always tricky. Mid Atlantic one is just pleased to have the power 😂
Wind turbines and boats are a difficult mix due to the resonance. Was wondering if this would be the end result. Was hard to see, but best practice on boats says every positive lead coming off a battery should be fused, and also you should be able to have a master shut off / disconnect to any battery bank. Couldn't easily see that on the connections to the crane / charger. Likewise, the battery bank should have a single connection from negative terminal to a point on the hull using cable heavy enough for the highest load possible.
You, AND Newland ( the boat owners? ) are legends. Thanks for sharing your findings with us. We can’t wait to see the outcome of the finished project - great video as always 😊😊🤓
I hope you spray that Anderson connector with dielectric grease 😉 especially since it doesn't have any water protection at all. And those connectors have so strong spring force that the grease will NOT make bad connection but instead keep it good for years
You could have engineered a more permanent load based braking system to slow it down in high winds so it made less noise, some stabilising guys to reduce vibration might have helped as well.
As a veteran of many marine installs, one thing I learned many years ago is ... LEASHES!!!! lol- I have a toolkit with all the tools on a toolbelt, fitted with 'stretchy' leashes, to stop the dreaded 'tool overboard' from happening... It's bad enough when you drop a $5 screwdriver, but I lost a $300 Fluke overboard- not even a year old...:-( thats when I bought the leashes (commonly found for things like keychains etc so you can clip them to your belt)
Looks like he put heat shrink over the crimps, I would assume he used adhesive lined, plus the crimps are closed end, so water ingress should be pretty much eliminated.
@@PugjaminThanks - makes sense, I forgot that they are enclosed at the tip. Though, I'm not sure I'd trust heat shrink alone not to break down under UV exposure. Of course I might be worrying over nothing there. 😂
@@corymac when i saw the last video i thought.. ill wait till the follow up customer ranting video 🤣 that will help with drainage, however it can make the cables "sweat" and lead to premature failure of the insulation, seen it as fast as 2 3 years.. worth keeping an eye on
Have you thought about including some rubber vibration dampening "bushes" into the points where the pole is mounted to the brackets. I'm thinking something like what is used in Car Engine mounts or some Car Exhausts.
I install the odd antenna on high voltage substations, usually only up to 6m aluminium poles with similar clamps. We tend to run the cables down the outside and use up cable ties. Main reason being is that as the pole moves (even more so on a boat) the cable rattles on the inside of the pole and can be very annoying. Also happens on modern streetlights too when the wind picks up. Other reason we mount externally on the pole Is ease of access to maintain / repair in future.
Use adhesive lined heat shrink on the Anderson (and other exposed)crimp terminals and smear some Vaseline in the connector terminals, you can also get protective covers for Anderson connectors for when they're unplugged. You also could have got away with a much smaller Anderson connector with more appropriately sized terminals.
I would use tinned wire in marine applications and made sure the connection is well protected (heat shrink with glue. For a battery installation I would like to see the appropriate sized fuses as close to the battery as possible. Good entertaining video :)
The turbine could be up all the time but a controllable brake (like you did when you took 1.1 down) that could be released when the owners aren't home. If you can get a turbine with less vibrations/ improved isolation, it could even be ran when they are home and braked at night.
Are Anderson connectors IP rated? Won't the water just flow inside the connector and corrode everything? I've always heard that for outdoors connections, you want your conductors to come in from the bottom of the connection box.
Can you please review/publish your findings, Ah/kw produced by the turbine? It would have been useful if you had wired the turbine output through a shunt (victron bmv 712 set up as an energy monitor) which would give you reliable data on the turbines production. I think you would find may people would be very interested in your findings. Maybe you could do this if you decide to set up trials at home. I'm sure you would gain some subscribers through such experiments.
I will be setting it up again and publishing the data for subscribers, however I’m quite convinced the turbine itself is garbage sadly. We shall be buying a better one first
Kris Harbour has a video where he made a similar-sized wind-turbine that can withstand high wind speeds. The rudder is off-center and rotates the entire turbine 90 degrees to the wind direction when it gets too fast. Edit: it's called "Furling"
Great recommendation - I was literally just thinking the same thing about linking to Kris Harbour's videos on wind turbine biuld. This one is very much worth a watch as a starting point on this topic: ua-cam.com/video/2-ExvwfNaMQ/v-deo.htmlsi=o0PqxsYwxUevRWGh
I fitted one on my narrowboat i used rubber mounting points i didnt have any vibration problems i did take it down as i only got 1.3 amps in gail force wind was dredfull wasnt worth it at all... i have read rutlands are the way to go
Dude plz tel me you equalised those old rolls batteries. If one is 3 volt more than the other than your gonna be overharging one batt and overdischarging the other bat which aint good. Wind turbine could be made to work having done a lot with radio controlled helicopters you need to statically and dynamically balance all 3 blades so they are exactly the same this will massively reduce vibration. And as other said in the comments use rubber isolations on all the mounts. Should help loads.
Hmm Surely if you balance the blazes (assuming they are out. Look at how we do drone blades with tape and a stand) And isolate that mount on rubbers. You'll be good. Alternatively try a different design like a barrel style generator..
Yeah linear actuators for your lifter. anemometer to home assistant and output to actuators. Then noise sensor for PID loop for noise control. I bet you could use magnetic breaking as part of that to control the noise without having to take it down.
Surely you could get something that you can use to use as a damper. I am kitting out my van and do some travelling, and am looking to get a wind turbine as well as solar
Interesting and perhaps with a more expensive wind turbine with blades that adjust their angle one may get better results. Not sure about drilling the structural steelwork of the crane or the boat is a good ideal and In would have gone for clamps instead. Back in my day we used to solder those Anderson plugs and use red ones for 24v (to avoid wrong voltage items being plugged in). The location I suspect of the one mounted on the crane may get rather wet.
i love a good anderson connector its a shame there not more widly used. you can buy the anderson connectors terminals seperately and they come in a wide variety of sizes to suit different cable sizes its worth looking into if your a serious user of connectors you can also buy selection boxes.
if the pipe was wrapped in the Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener ( it's just thick butyl tape used to cancel noise in cars around the wheels etc - you can even aply it on the walls from inside around the mounts) and mounted trough thick rubber .... you will hear nothing PS i will just take blades off it , yet leave it mounted there in case there is some issue with solar etc , they still have power from wind turbine
I share your attitude to wiring colours. Yes brown and blue for AC, red and black for DC. Problem is you still find red and black wiring in old houses.
A tide generator would be sick. istabreeze are the best small wind turbine under 2000w, but you'll still get big vibration and you really need no neibours for 100m and next time tie the bottom of the ladder too the wall, found the Seaurchin tidal turbine, best result at sea level or below.
Those connectors on the crane, if they are steel or ali be careful as they will rot out fast. I tried them on my boar and had to change them after a year for sealed type connectors.
(If you can find a comprehensive supplier of Anderson components - there are different lugs (for the 50A plug - etc) - to suit different wire sizes, OR solder the socket.)
Get yourself a rivnut set, great for attaching stuff to all sorts of metalwork, much quicker than tapping holes. There's been at least three jobs now I've seen you do where a rivnut set would have paid for itself by now.
I think had the sound have been minor, I’d have persevered, but it was deafening. The audio on video really doesn’t do it justice, as it has been audio tweaked to make it easier to listen to. I think it was the bearings that might have gone in the turbine as it was a smaller scale slightly cheaper one. I will be trying again, except with something a lot more expensive.
Doesn't work, ive tried matting, isolation mounts you name it... reduces it but not enough.. the slightest vibration will resonate throughout the entire tin can you are living in just amplifies it , makes it worse in the early hours as the ambient noise is lower, so makes it sound hell of a lot louder and the way sound travels through water can really piss your neighbours off too
well i guess this shows why everbody says don´t put thes things on the roof of the house where you sleep because of the vibrations better is barn or shed, but man i am sad to see this go since i was hoping to get some data off of it on how much it produces since i am considering putting such a thing up on my own in the garden or better on the carport just to get some power when there is no sun.
Great vid mate, shame about the noise tho, but looking forward to seeing what type / design of wind turbine you fit next. and stop dropping ya gear in the water :) - keep up the good work.
21:30 It's always weird to see places with tides. I have lived by the sea most of my life, but it's the Gulf of Finland, so sadly we get no tides here.
Another great video Cory. Having lost count of the number of tools / expensive electrical items that have rolled off the boat over the years, I feel your pain. Tethers and lanyards are your friend. Looking forward to the next one 👍
I have a small turbine on my boat - similar problem ... Unfortunately you dont get decent power until the wind is really strong (and its super noisy) - the rest of the time its just not worth it - its not a linear relationship between speed + power. I have to tie up the blades at night so we can sleep.
@@TheWebstaff You mean vertical axis turbines (VAWT) ? - I've not seen them used on sea going boats. There's two problems that I know of - firstly they need a larger swept area to generate the same power as a horizontal one, and the loading on the hub as you pitch and roll would knacker the bearings. On a house boat though, seems feasible - but it would probably be cheaper and more effective to add a couple more solar panels (like wings!)
@@TheWebstaffVAWTs are very inefficient and never worth the bother. Most work on drag not lift so have very low outputs. A decent HAWT will always outperform unless the wind conditions are poor in which case a wind turbine of any sort is a poor choice.
Ah, Was bound to happen as you say its your own R & D, Landwise i have always been interested in seeing if a smaller windmill could work in a mixed system with solar but just don't trust the mirco windmills to last in the environment here in the Northern Isles well but I think the cost puts me off, Boats, Ships and Barges are all a different kettle of fish so at least you know for the next time, but as soon as I watched you put it up i thought oh man that's going to be a C*nt when its windy 😂. and the light going over the side did make me giggle,
after watching your video, I got an Idea - as you shortcircuited the output of the turbine, the rpm went down. As you did that - did that also eliminate the vibrations? - If so, you could add a switch to turn off the wind turbine when someone is on the boat and turn it back on as soon as the boat is left ... just my 5 cents
What ive heard from an old fabricator that you can do wind turbines but it needs a magnet "levitating" bracket so theres no resonance going down to the hull of boats. Also ive been looking at windturbine channels and they play around with the blades so its 5/7 blades instead of 3. That reduces the sound of the actual turbine. But yea it will make a sound regarless what you do with it. With that amount of solar i was wondering why you would need such a small turbine at all. In winter we just go with generators to suppliment if the shore is not enough. Theres not really a way around it.
I have an 500-watt 5 blade. It was very noisy. I cut 6'' off the blades and it is much quitter and runs faster. The old Chinese trick to start up so fast is. Little to no grease in the bearings.
Personally, I'd stay away from the idea of raising the wind turbine on demand unless you end up finding a turbine that is *very* stable already - it's IMHO easier to deal with vibration on a fixed thing than one that has to be able to move around. Not to mention - complexity = more ways for things to break down. And thanks for posting even the failures - I keep trying to find good info on residential wind turbines and it's rare to find any information on issues like vibration-induced noise and real world generation data.
I suggested this in the last video. I see this as just being a good learning experience. Even the best in the industry will have learnt making similar mistakes.
I wouldn't be harsh to go as far as calling it a 'mistake'. Just something to consider when fitting to your next project. Just don't want you to make the same 'mistakes' as me. Costing me ££££s
on the crane connection, does it need to have a plug? you could have used a dc isolator switch box this way the end of the cavles wouldn´t be out in the rain and it would be safe, judging by the old connections they were connected all the time, so you could do a fixed connection as well and it would have been better than that folding over an crimping you did...
Wind turbines and noise pollution is a hidden issue. Wind farms generate infrasound emissions that actually make people sick. In Australia, wind farms have had to buy out neighbouring homes because of the post installation infra-sound problems that nobody bothered to tell people about.
*All practical tests of ground-based small wind turbines show: 1) They hardly produce any electricity. 2) They do not last long!* Wind close to ground is extremely gusty. 9 out of 10 small wind turbines therefore stop working after some years! *With solar panels, you can generate at least 10 times more green electricity with the same investment! Reliable and almost maintenance-free.*
Concerned for your safety in this I've Cory mate - you're a brave man doing that solo. Great vid though, but RIP Titanic better :(. Oh yeah, just let us know where can I download that track _'Wind turbine, gone but never forgotten'_ ! 😉
Shame about the vibration, I rekon you could isolate from the boat chassis to dampon that noise. and thanks for the mention of Future Automation we have done many similar things ;)
Wind + Solar = perfect combination BUT yes IT'S CHALLENGING :D (+add some LONG TERM (H2?) STORAGE and 100% SELF SUSTAINABILITY IS POSSIBLE! :D) if it's just the sound, you can put THICK RUBBER MATTS between the post and the wall :D ? OR: CAN HAVE IT?
It was fed into the battery, and this is with a resistive load! I think it was just not a very good turbine. The lesson learned is, you get what you pay for
Yes, we thought about rubber washers / matting / insulation. Yes, it’s not the best turbine. The noise from not only the vibration, but the wind was that severe I don’t believe it would have made a substantial enough difference. All in all, the output vs inconvenience made it not worth keeping. I shall be trying again in a different situation with a much better reported on turbine. This is my own personal R&D peeps, if you’re mean to one another, I won’t keep sharing it 😁
The outcome on this video is, basically forget them unless you're really high off the ground. The "capacity factor" of wind is hopeless domestically in most cases, and really quite good commercially where they are up in the smooth fast wind and away from effects of vibration.
www.notion.so/smartfew/The-Physics-of-Wind-Power-9faf42cec03e419f9f043ec3352ed113?pvs=4
I definitely feel like some mechanical isolation would have helped - the hollow hull of a boat is a great resonator. But at best you'd be reducing the noise inside, and it'd still be causing a racket outside from the noise of it whipping. Wouldn't be surprised if those propeller tips were going supersonic. Definitely need a system with overspeed protection.
I always thought about making a turbine from scratch myself (I actually have a 3d printed main blade-body-thing of a vertical axis wind turbine sat in the basement... I printed it and then the misses told me there was no chance I was sticking it to the garage) and wondered how well you could slow down the spinning just dumping the energy down to a power resistor.. if you've ever tried to spin a motor/generator with a massive load or a dead short on it you'll know how much sticking force it can apply.
I doubt its enough to properly stop a turbine in this kind of wind, but I always wanted to know what difference it would make. Especially since the blade would still have to spin to generate the power to then dump as heat to slow itself down... always wondered where the equilibrium would come out for a given windspeed compared to just free spinning.
EDIT: lol nvm, should have left the last bit till i was more than a couple of minutes in and you dead shorted it to slow it down.
the big question is not the noise, but what power? Was it worth it if it weren't for the noise? Initially I thought highly of wind turbines until I really got into it. If you don't have a space problem, I reckon these days that solar is always easier, has longer lifetime, less wear, and has a deterministic power delivery for the same price. You know you will get less power, but even in the winter there are no days that you don't get any power at all.
However, you might have to reconfigure your wintertime setup to 1 long string with a switch maybe?
@@bloepje Towards the start of the video he says it was drawing 2 amps, and later I think he said it was 50v.. so around 100W at that time
You may be able to minimise the vibration & noise by swapping to a vertical axis wind turbine like a savonius or darrieus for example?
Acoustic consultant here. Cory is 100% right. The noise is from the blades on the turbine. You’ll get some vibration transfer through the pole but the noise source is the wind turbulence from the blades and the airborne noise from that. If the owner doesn’t like the noise you’re never going to make it go away in a cost effective way. It just sounds too distinctive.
New video title: “Cory has MAJOR wind problems 💨”
Cory at his finest:
Strapping safety straps around everything heavier than his screwdriver, EXCEPT FOR HIMSELF WHILE DANCING ON THE ROOF
I’m replaceable, a vertically impressive shell of a womble
I wonder if filling the tube with sand would damp it down enough
as well as rubber ring around the clamp? 🤔
The real issue is poor generator design. It doesn't have enough phases or if it has a laminated steel stator the slots need to have an angle to them. The noise comes from what's known as cogging torque and this significantly affects the start up wind speed. It comes from magnets meeting too many coils at once. Spinning the shaft it feels like lumps of higher resistance.
A good wind turbine generator should apply a reasonably smooth torque to the shaft. This will reduce the amount of vibration it creates.
no the vibration would shake the sand until it was like concrete and then it will translate sound again.
filling with fluid rubber would've helped. like alubutyl helps deadening noise on doorpanels in car HiFi installs.
can I suggest that you simply 'rubber' isolate it from the metal of the boat. Metal on metal always transmits noise/vibration. rubber is the insulator! I had a similar problem a few months ago, where I mounted a remote oil filter to make access to oil filter on my car easier. mounted it to the firewall, for super easy access. Only problem was the howl it made, as I had a metal remote oil filter housing mated to the metal firewall .. i sounded like a broken gear. I subsequently isolated the metal oil filter housing using some rubber feet, noise totally gone. So I would reckon that had you had some sturdy rubber strapping between pole and mounts on the boat, you would have at least cut the noise or maybe even totally ridden yourselves of it. If you have a metal shed you could experiment with where it's easy and safer than high up on the boat.
Shorting the cables before the regulator would reduce the speed likely much more as there would be no regulator or diode voltage drop.
That is how most wind regulators work with large braking resistors for too strong wind
Sailing boats have had these in various evolutions for three decades. Mounting them and living with them is still a black art sometimes! But, the output at night is brilliant 😂 A hollow thin walled metal pole bolted onto a hollow thin steel box boat is probably the worst combo imho.. Great job and video getting it done
If the one battery is 10V but your pack voltage is 23V you have pretty bad imbalance which will mean failure of the pack pretty quickly. Have you considered adding in a battery balancer for long term use?
They’re in series - I’m not sure what will happen without a balancer (I guess one battery will be charged “harder” - until the overall voltage reaches 24v?). At least there won’t be a big rush of current between misbalanced cells I guess.
I’d also get a rubber cap for that exposed connector upstairs before a wave soaks it!
Was the wince fused or wired straight to the battery? i would change each battery in parallel with a 12v charger. This imbalance could overvolt one battery.
Another entertaining, and educational film, thank you.. 👌
Customer “my boat sounds like it’s gonna take off”
🤣🤣🤣
I'm waiting for the video from Jordan about people doing DIY wind turbine installs and needing to not do. 😂😂😂
Recently found your channel and it's quickly becoming one of my favorites.
I thought to myself when I watched the installation of the wind turbine, -"Those things are quite noisy and how will that go mounted to the boat like that".. Well, I guess I got the answer in this video :)
Me too, I ended up going back and watching every episode from the start over Christmas, and actually I feel proud of Cory. You can see the development so quickly in the channel / business / characters. I highly recommend it.
Look Cory, you deserve every help and support in all that you’re doing, I only wish you every blessed blessing in all your accomplishments and achievements, your brilliant and (sorry Artisans, seriously nothing against you), so glad you made that move to go on your own.
I know for a fact it does the same if you fasten it to a wall of a house! I've done it! A bit of rubber is wrapped around the pole where the clamps are. Don't tighten up the nuts too tight. Use another nut to lock the clamp up. helps a lot.
whats the IP rating of an Anderson connector? I am guessing around IP31, the salt water WILL kill this in short order, why not stick a nice plastic project box with a door, ip68 glands either end and leave the Andersons inside it, so you can just open door and connect/ dis connect them when needed. Happy dayz :-)
A Victron TR Smart DCTo Dc charger would be more efficient than the mains isolator. Also those rolls batteries are likely shot! Hope that helps
Gory great video . Sure you can come up with vibration isolation as suggested there bound to by bespoke rubber products that will do that job well.One small thing mount the Henderson connector in a water tight box put a 4or 5mm drain hole in the bottom and also enter all cables in the bottom . My apprenticeship included shipping work water always managed to get in water tight boxes drilling a drainage hole solved the problem which am sure you no .Hope to see the next video refitting to wind turbine
An awesome video as always. Having fitted a few wind generators to yachts over the years, keeping the noise down when it’s windy enough for them to be productive is always tricky. Mid Atlantic one is just pleased to have the power 😂
you should have a breaking system, felling turbine design & a dump load
Wind turbines and boats are a difficult mix due to the resonance. Was wondering if this would be the end result. Was hard to see, but best practice on boats says every positive lead coming off a battery should be fused, and also you should be able to have a master shut off / disconnect to any battery bank. Couldn't easily see that on the connections to the crane / charger. Likewise, the battery bank should have a single connection from negative terminal to a point on the hull using cable heavy enough for the highest load possible.
You, AND Newland ( the boat owners? ) are legends. Thanks for sharing your findings with us. We can’t wait to see the outcome of the finished project - great video as always 😊😊🤓
Our pleasure!
I hope you spray that Anderson connector with dielectric grease 😉 especially since it doesn't have any water protection at all.
And those connectors have so strong spring force that the grease will NOT make bad connection but instead keep it good for years
Thanks
Thanks Timothy! 😎 that’s a very kind support
You could have engineered a more permanent load based braking system to slow it down in high winds so it made less noise, some stabilising guys to reduce vibration might have helped as well.
I lived on a Dutch Barge for 5 years and it was amazing....
As a veteran of many marine installs, one thing I learned many years ago is ... LEASHES!!!! lol- I have a toolkit with all the tools on a toolbelt, fitted with 'stretchy' leashes, to stop the dreaded 'tool overboard' from happening... It's bad enough when you drop a $5 screwdriver, but I lost a $300 Fluke overboard- not even a year old...:-( thats when I bought the leashes (commonly found for things like keychains etc so you can clip them to your belt)
Great vid Cory! Quick question - wouldn't the Anderson connector have the same issue with capillary water ingress over time, with it being exposed?
Looks like he put heat shrink over the crimps, I would assume he used adhesive lined, plus the crimps are closed end, so water ingress should be pretty much eliminated.
@@PugjaminThanks - makes sense, I forgot that they are enclosed at the tip. Though, I'm not sure I'd trust heat shrink alone not to break down under UV exposure. Of course I might be worrying over nothing there. 😂
As many others have suggested maybe a rubber gasket around the pipe in the bracket which would isolate the vibrations perhaps.
I told you 🤣have a look inside that trunking too and see how much condensation there is... there's a reason we use tray on boats
You called it bang on with the turbine. ( the trunking we’ve installed slightly out of plumb, and with a gap to breath )
@@corymac when i saw the last video i thought.. ill wait till the follow up customer ranting video 🤣 that will help with drainage, however it can make the cables "sweat" and lead to premature failure of the insulation, seen it as fast as 2 3 years.. worth keeping an eye on
Have you thought about including some rubber vibration dampening "bushes" into the points where the pole is mounted to the brackets. I'm thinking something like what is used in Car Engine mounts or some Car Exhausts.
Check my pinned comment
Maybe a 24V waterproof light on the crane? Also that Anderson connector will fill with water and corrod the cables..again.
I install the odd antenna on high voltage substations, usually only up to 6m aluminium poles with similar clamps. We tend to run the cables down the outside and use up cable ties. Main reason being is that as the pole moves (even more so on a boat) the cable rattles on the inside of the pole and can be very annoying. Also happens on modern streetlights too when the wind picks up. Other reason we mount externally on the pole Is ease of access to maintain / repair in future.
Use adhesive lined heat shrink on the Anderson (and other exposed)crimp terminals and smear some Vaseline in the connector terminals, you can also get protective covers for Anderson connectors for when they're unplugged. You also could have got away with a much smaller Anderson connector with more appropriately sized terminals.
I would use tinned wire in marine applications and made sure the connection is well protected (heat shrink with glue.
For a battery installation I would like to see the appropriate sized fuses as close to the battery as possible.
Good entertaining video :)
Thanks!
Just my monthly ØY catchup 😎🤝
The turbine could be up all the time but a controllable brake (like you did when you took 1.1 down) that could be released when the owners aren't home. If you can get a turbine with less vibrations/ improved isolation, it could even be ran when they are home and braked at night.
Are Anderson connectors IP rated? Won't the water just flow inside the connector and corrode everything? I've always heard that for outdoors connections, you want your conductors to come in from the bottom of the connection box.
Can you please review/publish your findings, Ah/kw produced by the turbine? It would have been useful if you had wired the turbine output through a shunt (victron bmv 712 set up as an energy monitor) which would give you reliable data on the turbines production. I think you would find may people would be very interested in your findings. Maybe you could do this if you decide to set up trials at home. I'm sure you would gain some subscribers through such experiments.
I will be setting it up again and publishing the data for subscribers, however I’m quite convinced the turbine itself is garbage sadly. We shall be buying a better one first
Kris Harbour has a video where he made a similar-sized wind-turbine that can withstand high wind speeds. The rudder is off-center and rotates the entire turbine 90 degrees to the wind direction when it gets too fast. Edit: it's called "Furling"
Great recommendation - I was literally just thinking the same thing about linking to Kris Harbour's videos on wind turbine biuld.
This one is very much worth a watch as a starting point on this topic: ua-cam.com/video/2-ExvwfNaMQ/v-deo.htmlsi=o0PqxsYwxUevRWGh
Super skills and the passion is so clear to see. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to more wind developments ideas 👍
Much appreciated!
I fitted one on my narrowboat i used rubber mounting points i didnt have any vibration problems i did take it down as i only got 1.3 amps in gail force wind was dredfull wasnt worth it at all... i have read rutlands are the way to go
you could have just put vibration dumper on the clamps and see if the vibration will be eliminated before decommissioning it
Check my pinned comment 😎👍🏼
Rubber dampers would have been my first port of call.
Great job. Stay safe young man
Dude plz tel me you equalised those old rolls batteries. If one is 3 volt more than the other than your gonna be overharging one batt and overdischarging the other bat which aint good. Wind turbine could be made to work having done a lot with radio controlled helicopters you need to statically and dynamically balance all 3 blades so they are exactly the same this will massively reduce vibration. And as other said in the comments use rubber isolations on all the mounts. Should help loads.
Of course 😁👍🏼
Hmm
Surely if you balance the blazes (assuming they are out. Look at how we do drone blades with tape and a stand)
And isolate that mount on rubbers.
You'll be good.
Alternatively try a different design like a barrel style generator..
15:56 ah Yeap he got there.
I did mention this on a previous video or two!!
Yeah linear actuators for your lifter.
anemometer to home assistant and output to actuators.
Then noise sensor for PID loop for noise control.
I bet you could use magnetic breaking as part of that to control the noise without having to take it down.
There was no option to balance blades on this one, just the three tight screws.
The problem will be generator vibration as its likely a poor design. Out of balance blades just make the whole turbine wobble.
0:57 chuck a sheet over it.
A bigger one you would load it to slow it right down then short it out.
Surely you could get something that you can use to use as a damper. I am kitting out my van and do some travelling, and am looking to get a wind turbine as well as solar
Interesting and perhaps with a more expensive wind turbine with blades that adjust their angle one may get better results. Not sure about drilling the structural steelwork of the crane or the boat is a good ideal and In would have gone for clamps instead. Back in my day we used to solder those Anderson plugs and use red ones for 24v (to avoid wrong voltage items being plugged in). The location I suspect of the one mounted on the crane may get rather wet.
i love a good anderson connector its a shame there not more widly used. you can buy the anderson connectors terminals seperately and they come in a wide variety of sizes to suit different cable sizes its worth looking into if your a serious user of connectors you can also buy selection boxes.
if the pipe was wrapped in the Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener ( it's just thick butyl tape used to cancel noise in cars around the wheels etc - you can even aply it on the walls from inside around the mounts)
and mounted trough thick rubber .... you will hear nothing
PS
i will just take blades off it , yet leave it mounted there
in case there is some issue with solar etc , they still have power from wind turbine
Check my pinned comment 😁👍🏼
23:06 I might be nitpicking here, but since this is DC, shouldn't the colours on the wire be red and black for positive and negative?
I share your attitude to wiring colours. Yes brown and blue for AC, red and black for DC.
Problem is you still find red and black wiring in old houses.
A tide generator would be sick. istabreeze are the best small wind turbine under 2000w, but you'll still get big vibration and you really need no neibours for 100m and next time tie the bottom of the ladder too the wall, found the Seaurchin tidal turbine, best result at sea level or below.
I trained once but clearly thats enough. My new favorite quote lol. Great video
Those connectors on the crane, if they are steel or ali be careful as they will rot out fast.
I tried them on my boar and had to change them after a year for sealed type connectors.
(If you can find a comprehensive supplier of Anderson components - there are different lugs (for the 50A plug - etc) - to suit different wire sizes, OR solder the socket.)
Get yourself a rivnut set, great for attaching stuff to all sorts of metalwork, much quicker than tapping holes. There's been at least three jobs now I've seen you do where a rivnut set would have paid for itself by now.
Could you have tried some rubber NVH matting wrapped around the pole in the clamps, to prevent as much of the vibration transferring into the hull.
I think had the sound have been minor, I’d have persevered, but it was deafening. The audio on video really doesn’t do it justice, as it has been audio tweaked to make it easier to listen to. I think it was the bearings that might have gone in the turbine as it was a smaller scale slightly cheaper one. I will be trying again, except with something a lot more expensive.
The new one will do the same, metal on metal will transfer sound, you need a non metal buffer at all mounting points.
I agree, you'd be surprised how much a rubber damper will dissipate the vibration. Check them out being used on vibratory conveyors.
Doesn't work, ive tried matting, isolation mounts you name it... reduces it but not enough.. the slightest vibration will resonate throughout the entire tin can you are living in just amplifies it , makes it worse in the early hours as the ambient noise is lower, so makes it sound hell of a lot louder and the way sound travels through water can really piss your neighbours off too
Good thing they didn't want 50 wind turbines and one solar panel as backup.
😂👍🏼
I think I would have been all 'mission impossible' on that crane to save the milwalkie light 😂
well i guess this shows why everbody says don´t put thes things on the roof of the house where you sleep because of the vibrations better is barn or shed, but man i am sad to see this go since i was hoping to get some data off of it on how much it produces since i am considering putting such a thing up on my own in the garden or better on the carport just to get some power when there is no sun.
Me too!
Great vid mate, shame about the noise tho, but looking forward to seeing what type / design of wind turbine you fit next. and stop dropping ya gear in the water :) - keep up the good work.
Lidl coming through with the special section socket set 😂 Decent little kit though I picked it up too!
You know it!!! Parkside life 😂👍🏼
Shame about the turbine, and the red torch. Do they not have enough battery to not really need the wind top up? Entertaining as always.
In the winter months the solar just doesn’t quite cut it!
21:30 It's always weird to see places with tides. I have lived by the sea most of my life, but it's the Gulf of Finland, so sadly we get no tides here.
That’s cool! 👌🏼
Another great video Cory. Having lost count of the number of tools / expensive electrical items that have rolled off the boat over the years, I feel your pain. Tethers and lanyards are your friend. Looking forward to the next one 👍
Well said!! It quickly gets ‘out of hand’ 🥁
I have a small turbine on my boat - similar problem ... Unfortunately you dont get decent power until the wind is really strong (and its super noisy) - the rest of the time its just not worth it - its not a linear relationship between speed + power. I have to tie up the blades at night so we can sleep.
Have you looked into barrel style generators?
That’s interesting. Thanks for your experience
@@TheWebstaff You mean vertical axis turbines (VAWT) ? - I've not seen them used on sea going boats. There's two problems that I know of - firstly they need a larger swept area to generate the same power as a horizontal one, and the loading on the hub as you pitch and roll would knacker the bearings. On a house boat though, seems feasible - but it would probably be cheaper and more effective to add a couple more solar panels (like wings!)
@@TheWebstaffVAWTs are very inefficient and never worth the bother. Most work on drag not lift so have very low outputs. A decent HAWT will always outperform unless the wind conditions are poor in which case a wind turbine of any sort is a poor choice.
Can you clamp another pole to the main pole (rigid, but with rubber sleeve) to change its resonant frequency. Trial and error....
Ah, Was bound to happen as you say its your own R & D, Landwise i have always been interested in seeing if a smaller windmill could work in a mixed system with solar but just don't trust the mirco windmills to last in the environment here in the Northern Isles well but I think the cost puts me off, Boats, Ships and Barges are all a different kettle of fish so at least you know for the next time, but as soon as I watched you put it up i thought oh man that's going to be a C*nt when its windy 😂.
and the light going over the side did make me giggle,
Did you consider some kind of anti vibration mounts?
😂😂😂😂😂😂I'm keeping an eye on Spotify for the song Cory
after watching your video, I got an Idea - as you shortcircuited the output of the turbine, the rpm went down. As you did that - did that also eliminate the vibrations? - If so, you could add a switch to turn off the wind turbine when someone is on the boat and turn it back on as soon as the boat is left ...
just my 5 cents
Check my pinned comment 😁👍🏼
Shouldnt the Andersons from the battery on the deck have something to stop water/rain splashing and connecting the terminals causing a short?
Brilliant thanks Cory hope you used glue lined shrink 😂
What ive heard from an old fabricator that you can do wind turbines but it needs a magnet "levitating" bracket so theres no resonance going down to the hull of boats.
Also ive been looking at windturbine channels and they play around with the blades so its 5/7 blades instead of 3. That reduces the sound of the actual turbine. But yea it will make a sound regarless what you do with it. With that amount of solar i was wondering why you would need such a small turbine at all. In winter we just go with generators to suppliment if the shore is not enough. Theres not really a way around it.
I have an 500-watt 5 blade. It was very noisy. I cut 6'' off the blades and it is much quitter and runs faster. The old Chinese trick to start up so fast is. Little to no grease in the bearings.
Personally, I'd stay away from the idea of raising the wind turbine on demand unless you end up finding a turbine that is *very* stable already - it's IMHO easier to deal with vibration on a fixed thing than one that has to be able to move around. Not to mention - complexity = more ways for things to break down.
And thanks for posting even the failures - I keep trying to find good info on residential wind turbines and it's rare to find any information on issues like vibration-induced noise and real world generation data.
Thanks mate
I don’t know how I learnt so much about this thanks Cory 👍🏾
Happy to hear it!!
They do make reducing bushings for Anderson SB175's
Just buy a Marlec turbine. They're rated for marine use. That cheap chinese turbine can't cope with extreme winds. Always nice to watch your videos!
I suggested this in the last video. I see this as just being a good learning experience. Even the best in the industry will have learnt making similar mistakes.
I wouldn't be harsh to go as far as calling it a 'mistake'. Just something to consider when fitting to your next project. Just don't want you to make the same 'mistakes' as me. Costing me ££££s
on the crane connection, does it need to have a plug? you could have used a dc isolator switch box this way the end of the cavles wouldn´t be out in the rain and it would be safe, judging by the old connections they were connected all the time, so you could do a fixed connection as well and it would have been better than that folding over an crimping you did...
It needs a plug according to the client spec, and also for maintenance and removable.
Love the videos mate!!! ❤❤ 😎😎
Thanks 😁
Hi where did you get the wind turbine from and how much are they and installation cost ,do you recommend them are their other types out there.oete
Can you not add rubber around the poles where the clamps are to reduce the noise?
Check my pinned comment 😎🙏🏼
We had a wind turbine and that noise is literally what we had when it was windy.
Wind turbines and noise pollution is a hidden issue. Wind farms generate infrasound emissions that actually make people sick. In Australia, wind farms have had to buy out neighbouring homes because of the post installation infra-sound problems that nobody bothered to tell people about.
They need to make a buoy for the turbine. lol some kind of floating pad and anchor it down.
Are those Anderson connectors ip rated?
Support ØY by trying Nord VPN! 😁👍🏼 - nordvpn.com/corymac
Installing mass loaded vinyl is better option so you don't have to listen to the noise
You should have filled that anderson connector with solder and then heated it up and pushed the cable in
I've done a few small turbine installations for clients and they are not worth the money spent. More battery is always a better option.
I agree 👍🏼
*All practical tests of ground-based small wind turbines show: 1) They hardly produce any electricity. 2) They do not last long!*
Wind close to ground is extremely gusty. 9 out of 10 small wind turbines therefore stop working after some years!
*With solar panels, you can generate at least 10 times more green electricity with the same investment! Reliable and almost maintenance-free.*
Concerned for your safety in this I've Cory mate - you're a brave man doing that solo. Great vid though, but RIP Titanic better :(. Oh yeah, just let us know where can I download that track _'Wind turbine, gone but never forgotten'_ ! 😉
Is there no fuse on the batteries for the crane?
My experience of trickle chargers is that they don’t like it when the batteries are under load.
This Victron one was specced by my Victron distributor
Shame about the vibration, I rekon you could isolate from the boat chassis to dampon that noise. and thanks for the mention of Future Automation we have done many similar things ;)
Are you mr future automation himself? If so, email me! I’m keen to collaborate - info@oyelectrical.com
@@corymac Sent you an email
Would thick rubber around the pole and between the brackets absorb the vibrations?
I've not watched yet but I hope / assume you used the wind guide to twist it 90 degrees to the wind to take the wind away.
Oh or just undo the pole and drop it sideways. 😂
Oh well that was anticlimactic! 😂😂
B&Q sold these thirty years ago. The noise transmitted through the house, and the pathetic output made sure they were a short lived fad.
Wind + Solar = perfect combination BUT yes IT'S CHALLENGING :D (+add some LONG TERM (H2?) STORAGE and 100% SELF SUSTAINABILITY IS POSSIBLE! :D) if it's just the sound, you can put THICK RUBBER MATTS between the post and the wall :D ? OR: CAN HAVE IT?
couldn't you just add resistive load to force the turbine to spin slower or feed it into a battery through a bms?
It was fed into the battery, and this is with a resistive load! I think it was just not a very good turbine. The lesson learned is, you get what you pay for