“Well, it’s a Pro unit…let’s give it a few more ounces of “heft” by throwing in a totally unpopulated board!” Looking forward to part two of this, Dave.👍
Check the levels of cosmic radiation entering the room from outer space. On a serious note: I know nothing about fixing electronics but your videos are very educational. Keep em' coming.
Ah, the sound that machine makes when it goes through its functions takes me back to the days that I owned a Kenwood KV-936HF. I kind of miss that VCR.
I have a 1984 Quasar VH5041XW that was doing the same problem and I replaced the Photo Interrupter and it fixed the problem it might work for you too Dave.
I spent many many hours chasing this fault on a HR-D750EK...same deck and I suspect same tape-end sensing circuitry. The faulty component is the reel motor. It is generating electrical comutator noise: not too much during play and search modes when the supply voltage (and current) to the motor is lower, but much more during the high speed winding modes. The fault mechanism is that the tape end sensor circuits are very (too!) sesitive and are only just turned off while tape is interrupting the IR from the led. The electrical noise from the motor is seen and amplified by the end-sense phototransistors resulting in negative-going spikes that make the controller think the end of the tape has been reached. Take a look across the sensor(s) with a scope and you wil see the effect. I found the amplitude of the spikes varies along with the amount of tape on each spool and was worse with E120 tapes, which have less-full tape spools than E180 or E240s. I put this down to the very slight differences in the minute amount of IR "leakage" seen by the end-sensors versus the fullness of the spool under normal tape-blinded conditions. Fitting a new reel motor will fix the fault, regardless of how expensive or impossible this might be. Swapping the motor for one from another deck may fix it or leave you in a similar position. I fell into this trap having suspected the motor early in the search for the fault only to replace it with a second-had one that was just as bad! I then went down the blind hole of chasing electronics and power supply and motor driver chip faults which weren't there. Eventually I fitted a third motor which was less noisy and cured the fault. Adding suppression to the motor will help. A ceramic capacitor across its terminals or better still a little series inductance with a second capacitor. Any added inductor(s) must have a low dc resistance otherwise you mess-up the wind time and more importantly the take-up torque. Small ceramic capacitors across the photosensors also help absorb the spikes...but avoid going too big in value or you will slow down the response when the clear leader tape appears and might end up snatching the tape. I hope this makes sense..amd helps. Best Wishes. (To give credit: Reply no 6 from @evgenyk9243 is trying to describe this also I believe)
Yes i suspect the reel motor. Perhaps a cap across the leads and to ground (3 caps total) may snub it out. I do believe i have a scrap deck that has the same chassis i may be able to grab one from when i hey bored and throw this back on the bench again.
@@12voltvids I had the same issue here on a JVC HR-D470EG ("downgraded" european version of the HR-D470U) "sideloader". I installed additionally to the reel-motor the caps (100nf) on the tape start-/endsensors to completely eliminate this problem. Now it is flawlessly working in FF/REW-modes. It also handles "stiff" tapes. 🙂
I've tried a dozen different tapes some that were recorded on this JVC Super VHS ET #HR-S5911U some factory new and old. Play's fantastic for about 30 seconds then goes blue for 10sec. throughout the whole tape. Tried recording something fresh and it does the same. I cleaned it properly. Any idea's?
is it light getting to the sensors while the lid is off? Just a thought. I used to work for Mastercare in the UK in the 80's and 90's (part of Currys Dixons) now called "the tech guys", great video's btw.
I wonder if it would have worked better with a geared idler? Our first VCR used the rubber idler. The ones we had later used gears. Another interesting video! I have to finish watching it now.
HI, I wonder if you could advise me on this I have this Sony VCR SLV N-700 My problem is while watching a recording I made the previous day, on playback I get this problem: Color dropout. Color is fine then every now and then I lose color and the picture B&W ? Do you think it's a dirty Head or an electronics? I use new tapes. Aside from this the Sony runs fine.
It looks like it's a tape height problem in the cassette down position. Could be the cassette carriage a bit warped? Or maybe the pendulum a bit warped upwards?
That's kind of what I'm looking at. Thinking mechanical and it was shipped across the country and the box is beat up. I am thinking perhaps shipping damage as these bloody carriers really don't care about cargo. If it gets damaged they don't care. That's why i hate shipping stuff. I have a few customers that drive 300km round trip to deliver and pick up equipment so they don't have to ship. One guy is coming up from Portland to pick his stuff up to avoid shipping and possible damage.
@@12voltvids Oh yes, shipping, they don't care a bloody thing. I've had horror stories when shipping VCRs, specially bigger, heavier Beta machines. Good luck with that JVC, I'm sure you are fixing it. I will keep an eye to see the outcome.
Hello. I faced such problem. the fact is that the engine for winding and rewinding there is a collector. and over time, the contacts are oxidized and it begins to give electrical interference. And it causes dropouts in the picture too. I solder ceramic capacitors marked 104 in parallel with the sensors for the beginning and end of the tape and the motor. Plus, you need to open the motor from below and clean the contacts.I found this problem by examining the waveform of the tape end and start sensors with an oscilloscope. Greetings from Russia!)))
I've been watching your videos on the Sony SLV-R1000 and they've been a great help. I recently fixed the the blue gear issue and it works well, but the rear inputs aren't working. The ports look worn out and I plan on buying a replacement board but I'm having trouble removing the input board from the video board. Do you know of anyway to remove it without breaking either board?
@@12voltvids Well, good point! Panasonic made fully direct drive VHS machines even for the (high end) consumer market, I would have expected at least the same level of quality for the professional market...
The full direct drive vhs machines made by Panasonic were one of the worst machines they ever made. I have one. No i doesn't work but it will snap any and every tape you put in it except the very oldest t60 with large reels and t120. Tapes made after about 1990 all went to the thinner tape used in the t160. All the oddball lengths, t5 t10 t20 t30 t45 t60 t70 t90 t100, t110. T120 t127, t130 t140 t150 t160 all used the same thin tape. The t180 and 200 even thinner. The inertia of those direct drive reels causes the same problem that Sony had on the sl2000 sl2500 and sl2700. Pendulum gear drive was best.
@@12voltvids Thanks for the info! I have two NV-180 (direct drive, portable) that I am planning to do a full service on this summer. So far they work really well but I will keep the problem you described in mind!
I have a JVC HM-DR10000 D-VHS machine but was never able to get the firewire input to work on it so it can only record D-VHS from the analog sources ironically. Might've been shorted by a previous owner, but I don't have the electronics know-how to diagnose.
I noticed that when it starts to rewind, the speed gets reduced by a large dregree before the unit stops. What happens if you try to rewind a T-120 tape with the left spool empty?
@@12voltvids I know later machines that would show an estimated tape length would act strange with large tape hubs or tapes that had a small amount of tape on a normal T-120 cassette. It would rewind or fast forward in a slower fast wind speed. My guess is the micro-controller was confused because the readings were way different compared to normal length tapes (about 2 hours) in standard play (SP). Those T-120 would rewind super fast compared to early VCRs. I remember the 1st time I heard one sounded like a jet engine whirring up. It may have a hub sensor that's acting weird or maybe its tarnished a little. I know you'll figure it out or it will be sent off to recycling LOL.
@@darinb.3273 Shouldn't act up on large hubs. I used to buy custom loads, 5, 10, 15, 20 min ect. Had to specify large hubs or the duplicator machines would get angry and rewind slow as hell. The large hubs were designed for 60m and under. 75, 90, 100, 110, 120, 123, 130, 140 150 160 180 and 200 on small hubs. Yes they made t200 tapes for ntsc markets. Many do not know that. I have several. Tape so thin that it stretches by just looking at it. I used them in my old 24 hour real time recorder. Yes I have a machine that will record 24 hours on 1 t120 tape or 40 hours on a t200. I have a time lapse that will do 960 hours on 1 tape too. It records like stop motion but the real time records 30 frames per second but the tape moves 1/4 the speed of EP.
@@12voltvids I just remember the very first VCR we had as a kid it rewind at a constant speed and tape length wasn't a factor. It would move the mechanism for rewind mode and a couple of clunks and she was rewinding. It didn't load the tape until the play button was pressed, the later machines loaded it immediately and as I remember if the record tab was out would start playing the tape immediately. Also as I remember the tape stayed loaded 100% of all functions I never liked that because the tape was constantly on all the heads. And as fast as rewind (or f. forward) moved the tape I thought premature head wear not to mention the extra streses on the tape. I don't have any experience with commercial VVRs perhaps they already used an estimated tape remaining system that eventually was added to consumer units I don't really know. I suppose the good thing was the tape counter was real time on the later machines. The 1st one we had was a 4 digit counter that wasn't useful for any machine but that one. It wasn't a inches or feet counter and it would change depending on how tightly wound the tape was too. As I described in my previous post the newer machines didn't like short length tapes and painfully slow rewind times as you stated in your experience too.
hello i am from germany. I found an old family camera in the basement. a sony tvr 66e. unfortunately the standby/ lock/ record button is broken. I'm trying desperately to get a spare part or a drawing of the parts. You are my last resort. Do you have a tip for me where I could find something like that? I would like to give her old life back. many thanks for an answer
You might have to take it apart and try to rig it up somehow. The button presses on a membrane button inside and it is all part of the switch assembly. Has not been available for years.
@@12voltvids I carefully opened the camera. the complete switch assembly is missing. is it still possible to buy this switch assembly somewhere or is there a name for it. I will activate the switch again with a 3d print. my dream is to eventually get a spare part. thank you for the quick reply
@@zx8401ztv doesn't explain why when I run it with no taping and spin the take upside by hand it goes into full rewind with no issues and doesn't stop but when I put a tape in it goes for a second and stops. Defies all logic
@@12voltvids Spin it slowly, duplicating the T-20 take up reel. Is there a device that "counts" the revolutions which tells the logic to reduce the rewind speed?
“Well, it’s a Pro unit…let’s give it a few more ounces of “heft” by throwing in a totally unpopulated board!” Looking forward to part two of this, Dave.👍
Hours spent. For it playing poorly. Lots of dropouts on every tape. Heads likely worn out.
Check the levels of cosmic radiation entering the room from outer space. On a serious note: I know nothing about fixing electronics but your videos are very educational. Keep em' coming.
Ah, the sound that machine makes when it goes through its functions takes me back to the days that I owned a Kenwood KV-936HF.
I kind of miss that VCR.
I don't miss VCRs.
@@12voltvids That's understandable.
I have a 1984 Quasar VH5041XW that was doing the same problem and I replaced the Photo Interrupter and it fixed the problem it might work for you too Dave.
I spent many many hours chasing this fault on a HR-D750EK...same deck and I suspect same tape-end sensing circuitry.
The faulty component is the reel motor. It is generating electrical comutator noise: not too much during play and search modes when the supply voltage (and current) to the motor is lower, but much more during the high speed winding modes.
The fault mechanism is that the tape end sensor circuits are very (too!) sesitive and are only just turned off while tape is interrupting the IR from the led. The electrical noise from the motor is seen and amplified by the end-sense phototransistors resulting in negative-going spikes that make the controller think the end of the tape has been reached. Take a look across the sensor(s) with a scope and you wil see the effect. I found the amplitude of the spikes varies along with the amount of tape on each spool and was worse with E120 tapes, which have less-full tape spools than E180 or E240s. I put this down to the very slight differences in the minute amount of IR "leakage" seen by the end-sensors versus the fullness of the spool under normal tape-blinded conditions.
Fitting a new reel motor will fix the fault, regardless of how expensive or impossible this might be. Swapping the motor for one from another deck may fix it or leave you in a similar position. I fell into this trap having suspected the motor early in the search for the fault only to replace it with a second-had one that was just as bad! I then went down the blind hole of chasing electronics and power supply and motor driver chip faults which weren't there. Eventually I fitted a third motor which was less noisy and cured the fault.
Adding suppression to the motor will help. A ceramic capacitor across its terminals or better still a little series inductance with a second capacitor. Any added inductor(s) must have a low dc resistance otherwise you mess-up the wind time and more importantly the take-up torque. Small ceramic capacitors across the photosensors also help absorb the spikes...but avoid going too big in value or you will slow down the response when the clear leader tape appears and might end up snatching the tape. I hope this makes sense..amd helps. Best Wishes.
(To give credit: Reply no 6 from @evgenyk9243 is trying to describe this also I believe)
Yes i suspect the reel motor. Perhaps a cap across the leads and to ground (3 caps total) may snub it out. I do believe i have a scrap deck that has the same chassis i may be able to grab one from when i hey bored and throw this back on the bench again.
@@12voltvids I had the same issue here on a JVC HR-D470EG ("downgraded" european version of the HR-D470U) "sideloader". I installed additionally to the reel-motor the caps (100nf) on the tape start-/endsensors to completely eliminate this problem. Now it is flawlessly working in FF/REW-modes. It also handles "stiff" tapes. 🙂
I've tried a dozen different tapes some that were recorded on this JVC Super VHS ET #HR-S5911U some factory new and old. Play's fantastic for about 30 seconds then goes blue for 10sec. throughout the whole tape. Tried recording something fresh and it does the same. I cleaned it properly. Any idea's?
is it light getting to the sensors while the lid is off? Just a thought. I used to work for Mastercare in the UK in the 80's and 90's (part of Currys Dixons) now called "the tech guys", great video's btw.
No thought if that.
I wonder if it would have worked better with a geared idler? Our first VCR used the rubber idler. The ones we had later used gears. Another interesting video! I have to finish watching it now.
Tires were cheap garbage.
HI, I wonder if you could advise me on this I have this Sony VCR SLV N-700 My problem is while watching a recording I made the previous day, on playback I get this problem: Color dropout. Color is fine then every now and then I lose color and the picture B&W ? Do you think it's a dirty Head or an electronics? I use new tapes. Aside from this the Sony runs fine.
It looks like it's a tape height problem in the cassette down position. Could be the cassette carriage a bit warped? Or maybe the pendulum a bit warped upwards?
That's kind of what I'm looking at. Thinking mechanical and it was shipped across the country and the box is beat up. I am thinking perhaps shipping damage as these bloody carriers really don't care about cargo. If it gets damaged they don't care. That's why i hate shipping stuff. I have a few customers that drive 300km round trip to deliver and pick up equipment so they don't have to ship. One guy is coming up from Portland to pick his stuff up to avoid shipping and possible damage.
@@12voltvids Oh yes, shipping, they don't care a bloody thing. I've had horror stories when shipping VCRs, specially bigger, heavier Beta machines.
Good luck with that JVC, I'm sure you are fixing it. I will keep an eye to see the outcome.
@@Vintaginside just the fact that the styrofoam peanuts were inside the machine is a good indicator that it has been manhandled
Hello. I faced such problem. the fact is that the engine for winding and rewinding there is a collector. and over time, the contacts are oxidized and it begins to give electrical interference. And it causes dropouts in the picture too. I solder ceramic capacitors marked 104 in parallel with the sensors for the beginning and end of the tape and the motor. Plus, you need to open the motor from below and clean the contacts.I found this problem by examining the waveform of the tape end and start sensors with an oscilloscope.
Greetings from Russia!)))
How can we get in contact with you for commissions? I have a Toshiba m6550 that won’t read my tapes 😭
I've been watching your videos on the Sony SLV-R1000 and they've been a great help. I recently fixed the the blue gear issue and it works well, but the rear inputs aren't working. The ports look worn out and I plan on buying a replacement board but I'm having trouble removing the input board from the video board. Do you know of anyway to remove it without breaking either board?
Imagine spending 1000s for a "professional" machine and them finding out the mechanism is powered by a toy car tire. Really cool JVC, really cool....
VHS. Video Home System.
It's a home vcr regardless on how much you pay. It's s home machine at the core.
@@12voltvids Well, good point! Panasonic made fully direct drive VHS machines even for the (high end) consumer market, I would have expected at least the same level of quality for the professional market...
The full direct drive vhs machines made by Panasonic were one of the worst machines they ever made. I have one. No i doesn't work but it will snap any and every tape you put in it except the very oldest t60 with large reels and t120. Tapes made after about 1990 all went to the thinner tape used in the t160. All the oddball lengths, t5 t10 t20 t30 t45 t60 t70 t90 t100, t110. T120 t127, t130 t140 t150 t160 all used the same thin tape. The t180 and 200 even thinner. The inertia of those direct drive reels causes the same problem that Sony had on the sl2000 sl2500 and sl2700. Pendulum gear drive was best.
@@12voltvids Thanks for the info! I have two NV-180 (direct drive, portable) that I am planning to do a full service on this summer. So far they work really well but I will keep the problem you described in mind!
Rewind stop sensor should have a cap on top to avoid stray light with the cover open. Those days I use custom made from pen cover/cap.
It is covered. That's not why stopping.
Did you try a different lenght tape, like 120 or 180 minutes ? Maybe it will rewind.
Haven't looked at it again.
JVC repair...I still use a fire-wire VCR with my Samsung TV for recording also have a JVC SVHS for other uses.
I have a JVC HM-DR10000 D-VHS machine but was never able to get the firewire input to work on it so it can only record D-VHS from the analog sources ironically. Might've been shorted by a previous owner, but I don't have the electronics know-how to diagnose.
I noticed that when it starts to rewind, the speed gets reduced by a large dregree before the unit stops. What happens if you try to rewind a T-120 tape with the left spool empty?
I haven't tried a longer tape yet.
@@12voltvids I know later machines that would show an estimated tape length would act strange with large tape hubs or tapes that had a small amount of tape on a normal T-120 cassette. It would rewind or fast forward in a slower fast wind speed. My guess is the micro-controller was confused because the readings were way different compared to normal length tapes (about 2 hours) in standard play (SP). Those T-120 would rewind super fast compared to early VCRs. I remember the 1st time I heard one sounded like a jet engine whirring up. It may have a hub sensor that's acting weird or maybe its tarnished a little. I know you'll figure it out or it will be sent off to recycling LOL.
@@darinb.3273
Shouldn't act up on large hubs. I used to buy custom loads, 5, 10, 15, 20 min ect. Had to specify large hubs or the duplicator machines would get angry and rewind slow as hell. The large hubs were designed for 60m and under. 75, 90, 100, 110, 120, 123, 130, 140 150 160 180 and 200 on small hubs. Yes they made t200 tapes for ntsc markets. Many do not know that. I have several. Tape so thin that it stretches by just looking at it. I used them in my old 24 hour real time recorder. Yes I have a machine that will record 24 hours on 1 t120 tape or 40 hours on a t200. I have a time lapse that will do 960 hours on 1 tape too. It records like stop motion but the real time records 30 frames per second but the tape moves 1/4 the speed of EP.
@@12voltvids I just remember the very first VCR we had as a kid it rewind at a constant speed and tape length wasn't a factor. It would move the mechanism for rewind mode and a couple of clunks and she was rewinding. It didn't load the tape until the play button was pressed, the later machines loaded it immediately and as I remember if the record tab was out would start playing the tape immediately. Also as I remember the tape stayed loaded 100% of all functions I never liked that because the tape was constantly on all the heads. And as fast as rewind (or f. forward) moved the tape I thought premature head wear not to mention the extra streses on the tape. I don't have any experience with commercial VVRs perhaps they already used an estimated tape remaining system that eventually was added to consumer units I don't really know. I suppose the good thing was the tape counter was real time on the later machines. The 1st one we had was a 4 digit counter that wasn't useful for any machine but that one. It wasn't a inches or feet counter and it would change depending on how tightly wound the tape was too. As I described in my previous post the newer machines didn't like short length tapes and painfully slow rewind times as you stated in your experience too.
hello i am from germany. I found an old family camera in the basement. a sony tvr 66e. unfortunately the standby/ lock/ record button is broken. I'm trying desperately to get a spare part or a drawing of the parts. You are my last resort. Do you have a tip for me where I could find something like that? I would like to give her old life back. many thanks for an answer
You might have to take it apart and try to rig it up somehow. The button presses on a membrane button inside and it is all part of the switch assembly. Has not been available for years.
@@12voltvids I carefully opened the camera. the complete switch assembly is missing. is it still possible to buy this switch assembly somewhere or is there a name for it. I will activate the switch again with a 3d print. my dream is to eventually get a spare part. thank you for the quick reply
@@kaikamenkind9362 on most of those TR series it was part of the switch block but every model had a different part number.
Outstanding
More to come. Investigating
What an odd fault, is the mode switch playing silly buggers :-D
No not a mode switch issue.
@@12voltvids it was worth a guess, machines can go ape shit when the logic levels are uncertain.
@@zx8401ztv doesn't explain why when I run it with no taping and spin the take upside by hand it goes into full rewind with no issues and doesn't stop but when I put a tape in it goes for a second and stops. Defies all logic
@@12voltvids Spin it slowly, duplicating the T-20 take up reel. Is there a device that "counts" the revolutions which tells the logic to reduce the rewind speed?
Glue will not dry 100% even resulting in uneven belt/tire, not great for consistent operation.
Junk Very Cheap made expensive by adding an outer case and a couple boards.