So refreshing to see a video on this where the area has been cleaned PRIOR to changing the gasket/oring. Previous videos that I found all cleaned the area post dipstick adapter removal, spraying cleaners and wiping around/across the open hole.
Nice work, that looks like a permanent repair. I like the fiber gasket vs Mitch Olson's rubber. I'm certain this will last longer. Think I'll go ahead and order the kit. Now that it's cold, as usual with most leaks, it's just started at 297k on the clock. I JUST serviced it, and thought the copper washer was reused one too many times. Well, it's finally time that I actually have to fix something on this old reliable truck. Thanks for the video, I'm getting my kit on the way now.
Austin, I dropped the plug in the oil pan, I really don't want to pull the motor out, I brought a kit, but I wanted to know if I left the plug in the oil pan will it damage anything.
@@rickyspivey3348 no, some kits actually have you drop it on purpose. You will have to buy a billet one that can be installed from the outside though and they have 399 or something crazy. Best just to buy the kit with the brush you stick through it so if you drop it you can just pull it back up
Unless the old O-ring got so swollen that it distorted the adapter, all the 515 and tightening in the world won't fix it. (Ask me how I know) You would then either have to raise the engine high enough to pull the oil pan off to replace the adapter, or get that nifty 300 dollar repair flange that Strictly Diesel makes.
@@MrNotorius5500 No you wouldn't. There are a few repair kits that eliminate the inside O-ring altogether and replace it with a gasket on the outside that now seals it. No lifting the engine, no $300 billet adapter.
Another example why the POWERJOKE was one of the worst diesel engine design ever produced ! What possible advantage does this pan design deliver over a simple welded tube that every other engine produced worked without failure ? ITS A DIPSTICK PEOPLE !!?? Engineered commercial THEFT !!
You're entitled to your [wrong] opinion, but to say that the 7.3 PSD is "one of the worst diesel engine designs ever produced" is worse than just hysterical brand hate- it's downright WRONG. 7.3s *routinely* last hundreds of thousands of miles (this example is still going strong with well over 300k miles), and the *only* reason the dipstick flange repair is an issue at all is because the pickup chassis in which the engine is installed was not originally designed with room for a diesel engine (the frame design is virtually unchanged since 1980- a 17 year production run, AND the frame carries over a large portion of it's design from earlier frames of the 60s and 70s). The long and the short of it is that Ford shoehorned the 7.3 into these old body style trucks, and as a result it is virtually impossible to remove the oil pan while the engine is still installed in the truck, leading to the need for this Rube Goldberg repair. That's not a fault of the engine design (which was actually designed for school buses and medium duty trucks), that's simply a difficulty due to packaging. Let me fill you in on a little secret: practically every oil dipstick tube in existence uses either an o-ring or a gasket of some sort, and ALL of them leak eventually. The reason it's not an issue with most other engines is because those other vehicles were designed around their engines thus making things like oil pan removal with the engine still in the vehicle possible. Being able to pull the oil pan, which is possible when this engine is installed in the type of vehicles it was designed for, makes this dipstick flange repair a piece of cake. In fact, the Elegance of the multi-piece dipstick flange is apparent when you think about the fact that it allows different dipstick mounting locations for the different vehicle installations (thus adding versatility and value to the engine design), and in a medium duty truck this simple leak would be easy to repair with a minimal o-ringreplacement and maximum reusability of existing metal pieces. That's not a bad design, that's a great design! The only thing that makes this design "bad" is that the dipstick flange was not designed with Ford pickups in mind, and Ford pickups were not designed with the 7.3 in mind. It's basically I'm off the wall shoehorn job motor swap that was available from the factory. The bottom line is this: the tight packaging of the 7.3 powerstroke in an OBS Ford pickup does not make the 7.3 poor design. That claim is about as idiotic as stuffing an LS V8 into a Geo metro, then complaining when you have to pull the engine in order to change the spark plugs. Just because it's packaged so tightly that you can't service the engine doesn't mean it's a shitty engine. It just means it's too much motor for the space available, and the motor and the chassis weren't designed to work together. And the overall scheme of things, an inexpensive and fairly straightforward fix like this is a small price to pay for a million mile motor that will tow anything you can hook to it and get 20 miles per gallon doing it. Take your brand hate someplace else. We deal strictly with facts here on this channel. 🙋
As a Ford certified diesel tech, I'll say it's one of the best examples of over engineering, the sweet spot of reliability, decent power, and value for the money. I've worked on these superduties since the 6.4 era... And I can tell you.for absolutely certain, NONE of the newer engines are anywhere near as reliable. Not even the highly praised 6.7 powerstoke. Don't.get me wrong, it's ability and size and weight are extremely impressive, but that comes at the cost of reliability. LOTS to go wrong on the newer trucks like the 6.0, (high pressure oil leaks) the 6.4 powerstokes are absolutely insane to work on... and the parts are crazy expensive. The 6.7 suffers from a plethora of problems and failures as well... like def heater failures, nox sensors, exhaust temp sensors, manifold leaks, turbo failures, high pressure fuel system failures(cp3 and cp4) and on and on and on... I've seen cranks broken, dropped valves, all kinds of stuff on the new 6.7's. What I can also tell you, I've seen way too many examples of 500k+ mile 7.3's, both on the classic obs, and new body style trucks, that I couldn't count them. I had one customer that came in for service once a year, hauling cars. That's all the truck did. Never without a trailer on it. 1.3 million miles was the last time I saw it almost a decade ago. I often wonder where it's at now. I saw too many examples of extremely high milage 7.3 to pass it up. Even after experiencing the new trucks, with quiet engines and interiors, boatloads of tire frying power, heated/cooled seats, and all the fancy stuff, I saw the problems they had, and went for the "old" truck. I waited years to find the right one, an 03, the very last year. It's now nearing 300k mostly heavy tow miles, and runs extremely well. Factory everything other than a whole lot upgrades it didn't really need. Arguably the best pickup EVER produced, in my professional opinion. This is a minor inconvenience for the value you'd typically get with an old truck like this, even if you DID pay to remove the engine to fix this problem. Just some more facts for ya, before you go around looking extremely uneducated and down right stupid again, when it comes to talking about powerstokes.
To tighten the nut, just use a properly sized wrench, crescent wrench, or channel locks, and rotate it clockwise. Lefty-loosey, righty-tighty. It's not hard.
So refreshing to see a video on this where the area has been cleaned PRIOR to changing the gasket/oring. Previous videos that I found all cleaned the area post dipstick adapter removal, spraying cleaners and wiping around/across the open hole.
Nice work, that looks like a permanent repair. I like the fiber gasket vs Mitch Olson's rubber. I'm certain this will last longer. Think I'll go ahead and order the kit. Now that it's cold, as usual with most leaks, it's just started at 297k on the clock. I JUST serviced it, and thought the copper washer was reused one too many times.
Well, it's finally time that I actually have to fix something on this old reliable truck. Thanks for the video, I'm getting my kit on the way now.
Looks like the best kit yet.
Austin, thanks so much for your help.
One more reason to have a " Hang an Engineer Day " ?
Austin, I dropped the plug in the oil pan, I really don't want to pull the motor out, I brought a kit, but I wanted to know if I left the plug in the oil pan will it damage anything.
If you got both of the o rings out before you dropped it, it should be fine from what I've heard.
What happens if the plug falls into the oil pan
You pull the engine and take off the pan and get it out :)
@@jlaustill will it damage the oil pump and engine if I don't take it out?
@@rickyspivey3348 no, some kits actually have you drop it on purpose. You will have to buy a billet one that can be installed from the outside though and they have 399 or something crazy. Best just to buy the kit with the brush you stick through it so if you drop it you can just pull it back up
Where can I get a kit
Its linked in the description but here it is www.riffraffdiesel.com/oil-level-gauge-oil-pan-repair-kit/#product-reviews
Did it stop leaking ?
brian johnson Always does if you do it correct. Highly recommended kit
It did fix the leak. Very satisfied with the kit!
Unless the old O-ring got so swollen that it distorted the adapter, all the 515 and tightening in the world won't fix it. (Ask me how I know) You would then either have to raise the engine high enough to pull the oil pan off to replace the adapter, or get that nifty 300 dollar repair flange that Strictly Diesel makes.
@@MrNotorius5500 No you wouldn't. There are a few repair kits that eliminate the inside O-ring altogether and replace it with a gasket on the outside that now seals it. No lifting the engine, no $300 billet adapter.
@@cencoast_7.340 Hence why I mentioned the 300 dollar repair flange from Strictly Diesel.
Another example why the POWERJOKE was one of the worst diesel engine design ever produced !
What possible advantage does this pan design deliver over a simple welded tube that every other engine produced worked without failure ?
ITS A DIPSTICK PEOPLE !!??
Engineered commercial THEFT !!
You're entitled to your [wrong] opinion, but to say that the 7.3 PSD is "one of the worst diesel engine designs ever produced" is worse than just hysterical brand hate- it's downright WRONG. 7.3s *routinely* last hundreds of thousands of miles (this example is still going strong with well over 300k miles), and the *only* reason the dipstick flange repair is an issue at all is because the pickup chassis in which the engine is installed was not originally designed with room for a diesel engine (the frame design is virtually unchanged since 1980- a 17 year production run, AND the frame carries over a large portion of it's design from earlier frames of the 60s and 70s). The long and the short of it is that Ford shoehorned the 7.3 into these old body style trucks, and as a result it is virtually impossible to remove the oil pan while the engine is still installed in the truck, leading to the need for this Rube Goldberg repair. That's not a fault of the engine design (which was actually designed for school buses and medium duty trucks), that's simply a difficulty due to packaging.
Let me fill you in on a little secret: practically every oil dipstick tube in existence uses either an o-ring or a gasket of some sort, and ALL of them leak eventually. The reason it's not an issue with most other engines is because those other vehicles were designed around their engines thus making things like oil pan removal with the engine still in the vehicle possible. Being able to pull the oil pan, which is possible when this engine is installed in the type of vehicles it was designed for, makes this dipstick flange repair a piece of cake. In fact, the Elegance of the multi-piece dipstick flange is apparent when you think about the fact that it allows different dipstick mounting locations for the different vehicle installations (thus adding versatility and value to the engine design), and in a medium duty truck this simple leak would be easy to repair with a minimal o-ringreplacement and maximum reusability of existing metal pieces. That's not a bad design, that's a great design! The only thing that makes this design "bad" is that the dipstick flange was not designed with Ford pickups in mind, and Ford pickups were not designed with the 7.3 in mind. It's basically I'm off the wall shoehorn job motor swap that was available from the factory.
The bottom line is this: the tight packaging of the 7.3 powerstroke in an OBS Ford pickup does not make the 7.3 poor design. That claim is about as idiotic as stuffing an LS V8 into a Geo metro, then complaining when you have to pull the engine in order to change the spark plugs. Just because it's packaged so tightly that you can't service the engine doesn't mean it's a shitty engine. It just means it's too much motor for the space available, and the motor and the chassis weren't designed to work together. And the overall scheme of things, an inexpensive and fairly straightforward fix like this is a small price to pay for a million mile motor that will tow anything you can hook to it and get 20 miles per gallon doing it.
Take your brand hate someplace else. We deal strictly with facts here on this channel. 🙋
As a Ford certified diesel tech, I'll say it's one of the best examples of over engineering, the sweet spot of reliability, decent power, and value for the money.
I've worked on these superduties since the 6.4 era... And I can tell you.for absolutely certain, NONE of the newer engines are anywhere near as reliable. Not even the highly praised 6.7 powerstoke. Don't.get me wrong, it's ability and size and weight are extremely impressive, but that comes at the cost of reliability. LOTS to go wrong on the newer trucks like the 6.0, (high pressure oil leaks) the 6.4 powerstokes are absolutely insane to work on... and the parts are crazy expensive. The 6.7 suffers from a plethora of problems and failures as well... like def heater failures, nox sensors, exhaust temp sensors, manifold leaks, turbo failures, high pressure fuel system failures(cp3 and cp4) and on and on and on... I've seen cranks broken, dropped valves, all kinds of stuff on the new 6.7's.
What I can also tell you, I've seen way too many examples of 500k+ mile 7.3's, both on the classic obs, and new body style trucks, that I couldn't count them.
I had one customer that came in for service once a year, hauling cars. That's all the truck did. Never without a trailer on it. 1.3 million miles was the last time I saw it almost a decade ago. I often wonder where it's at now.
I saw too many examples of extremely high milage 7.3 to pass it up. Even after experiencing the new trucks, with quiet engines and interiors, boatloads of tire frying power, heated/cooled seats, and all the fancy stuff, I saw the problems they had, and went for the "old" truck. I waited years to find the right one, an 03, the very last year. It's now nearing 300k mostly heavy tow miles, and runs extremely well. Factory everything other than a whole lot upgrades it didn't really need. Arguably the best pickup EVER produced, in my professional opinion.
This is a minor inconvenience for the value you'd typically get with an old truck like this, even if you DID pay to remove the engine to fix this problem.
Just some more facts for ya, before you go around looking extremely uneducated and down right stupid again, when it comes to talking about powerstokes.
You lost me when you didn't show how to tighten the nut and how to tighten to..sorry
To tighten the nut, just use a properly sized wrench, crescent wrench, or channel locks, and rotate it clockwise. Lefty-loosey, righty-tighty. It's not hard.