BMW E36 318i M44 Rough idle Vacuum leak Misfire PCV CCV Replacement
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BMW E36 318i M44 Rough idle Vacuum leak Misfire PCV CCV Replacement,
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The only thing is I wish you would have showed how it ran before AND after so we could see if the issues is the same as what we have or what the difference was in swapping it.
My car was running really rough on start up for around a minute and feeling kind of unresponsive. I just cleaned out the ICV and PCV/CCV with some air flow cleaner following your video and WOW what a difference! starts great and idles spot on even from cold start. Just took it for a drive and it has found new life, so responsive now and feeling brand new. What I really liked was how simple everything was to do, no threaded rusty bolts and didn't have to guess where everything went back. Many thanks for posting this video, I'm back in love with my E36 again. Cheers
next morning it started rough again - changed the oil and sorted it
Hope u can help me, my car always start at the second time, and when change from 1gear to second gear loose power, like vacum leak, i need to pump very gentle the pedal... Does any of this sounds familiar? Idk if the problem is the oil or any of those valves icv/ccv
Ahh I miss my M44 1.9L when I had my Z3. I did this though, replacing the PCV but didn't need to remove the manifold. I just reached down underneath with a small ratchet to remove the screws on the PCV.
I could of done it like that i guess but it seems almost as fast to just remove the intake
need to replace my PCV valve on my 1.9 Z3, any troubles you had or is it just a simple unbolt and re attach new one?
I guess Im kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good site to watch new tv shows online ?
@Duke Camilo i use Flixzone. Just search on google for it =)
@Kalel Darian Definitely, I've been using flixzone for since april myself :D
Just blew out my 95 318i front seal completely 👌🏼👌🏼
great write up, i was stumped on how to access the 2 bolts located underneath.....removing the plate solved my problems. Thank you very much.
I could use some help/pointers. 96 318i. 94k miles, 5spd manual. Car was running fine but 2 weeks ago the plastic water outlet failed on the back of the engine. All coolant leaked out as the large nipple broke off. A major pita to replace but I did it. At the same time I was thinking the similar water outlet on the driver side of the block could be just as bad. So i bought that as well and took the upper intake manifold off and replaced that as well. Changed most hoses too, incl. the ones to the injector as they were in bad shape. After that I noticed oil leak at cyl # 2 so I changed the valve cover gasket. As I was putting back the throttle body, I noticed there was a lot of oil smudge deposit around the butterfly valves, so I cleaned the batterflies and surroundings with kerosin (I had no carb cleaner left) It removed the nasty oil deposits and the valves seem to open and close a little better. No more sticky feel. I then put everything back and now I have a rough idle. It never stalled yet, but its rough. Like its too low, as if I tap the accelerator pedal a little, it smooths out. I drove the car today about 30-40 miles. It did feel slightly better after driving it but once cooled down, its really crap again. It hovers around the 700rpm range but rough, shakes the engine. Here is what I did so far as an attempt to fix it. I put 4 new NGK spark plug on it. I removed the idle control valve and cleaned it. It was not really dirty, but cleaned it anyway. The valve was turning freely and the whole valve seems ok. I also sprayed a lot of intake/throttle cleaner into the throttle body. I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor with the MAF Cleaner as well. No changes whatsoever. Once its revved, the car seems to be running perfectly fine, no hesitation, no vibration, smooth, power seems to be all there, no hard starting, no stalling. I did around 70mph the fastest and it was fine at that speed as well. No other issues but the idle being rough. Its almost like when you have a large V8 with a lumpy idle. Engine shaking, etc. Also, no check engine light, so I can't try and read codes. I tried spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold, throttle body to see if the idle gets rougher or stalling happens but nothing. Also as the engine gets warmer, it gets slightly better. Still very bad, but a tad smoother. Its like 1 being stalling 5 being perfect, it gets from #2 to #3 and if you drive it a lot, it gets #4 but never smooth like it was before I torn everything down. I'm pretty sure I did something during assembly. It does not seem it just happen to go bad. Right before I started working on it 4 days ago, I pulled into a garage and smooth idle, etc. I ran it only for 40-50 sec as it had no coolant, but car had butter smooth idle. I ordered an O2 sensor, as I was going to change that anyway. I used BMW parts and NGK spark plugs. I appreciate any and all help as I'm a bit lost at the moment.
I tried all these things on my 1.9 M44. What the problem actually was the oil. It was starting really bad so I git the engine as hot as possible and used a can of engine flush and then refilled with fully synthetic 0w 40 oil.
next morning it fired up with a touch of the key and ran like the day it was made. I never guessed as it had an oil change at BMW 8 months ago but that oil was gunking up the lifters.
Was there a squiky sound on the engine?
I like your channel bro a lot of good info but the way you did this is very time consuming you can just take the 2 vacuum lines off and then the two Allen key hex bolts and reinstall for more room you can lift up the wiring harness by taking off the 4 bolts and 2 screws only takes about 15 minutes for the whole job
VERY VERY THANKS ı buy a bmw compact m44 ı was not control motor after more ı was control in motors dont have water valve ı bought a water valve my car make misfire
and very bad sound ı saw your video ı saw reason :) and ı buy a ccv ı resolve my car problem thanks thanks ı love guy
Thank you very much. i has same problem Thanks for you video SOLVED
I replaced all that and still get misfire I changed most of does sensors and coil packs
Check disa valve and check coil bet the issue is there
Do you have a video of the car while rough idle? I'm having a similar issue with my car. Sounds like it's cammed when idling. And occasionally misfires.
Same here
check out the disa valve
paying attention to detail good shit Nathan
What’s the size of the hose that goes from the valve cover throw the PCV
It could be the camshaft sensor is old or failing but not enough to show any codes yet. If there’s no leaks and it idles bad, camshaft sensor usually cures a bad idle if there’s no issue with the ignition and fuel injectors.
Oil catch can also helps a lot.
Also, I agree with other commenters here, clamp the brake booster hose.
Throttle positioning sensor, idle control valve, CCV, camshaft & crankshaft sensor, disa valve, O2 sensor, MAF, throttle body, vacuum leaks and the list goes on & on 🙄 Process of elimination if no codes are thrown can be really frustrating!
Thanks Man!!!
What's up friend, I have an m44, it doesn't have a pulse in the injectors, I tried the control unit and the immo module in a bmw z3 and it started, what would be the problem. friend

My e90 is making a loud shinning noise with error code 171. When I release the oil cap, there's lot of suction and resistance to release it and once the cap comes off, the sound disappears. As soon as I put the oil cap back on, the loud noise comes back. What could this be? The code from Autozone says it's the MAF but I changed that 6 months ago and it wasn't needed so I returned it. I also have ISTA but I'm not sure how to use it for this.
What's up friend, I have a project, it's an e36 sedan with wiring of the m44b19 ecu full sensors of the m44 but the engine is a m40b18 everything works except that it has no pulses in the injectors your help will be very valuable
Hey there i know this is a every long time ago ....im having the same problem question did u fixed it and what was was it?????? 🙏
Sorted and car running good after all was coil pack celinder one and disa valave
When replacing disa valave make sure u make new seal aroun it as it does leak from it and car does get very revy and up and downs idle
@@americoalmada7316 What is the disa valve. My 320i idles between 1200 to 1400, up and down.?
I have the exact same car, same color, same issue and everything. Mine has 68,000 miles.
Why didnt you tighten the clamp on the hose on the back intake that helps. I know because that was my problem at one point now I have a busted gas line hose
I have a 95 318 ti, that had some idle issues and it turned into a loss of power... getting knock senser#2 code form the dash. after i inspected the hoses , replaced the "Y" hose behind the boot hose. replaced the o2Senser, flue filter, plugs, airfilter. cleaned intake valve. car started up ilde fine for 3-4 mins before it went worse as it was before . this time it seamed that everything i did made it worse.So i took it to my local( well trusted BMW shop) 6 miles away. They fond that the harmonic balancer was no good and replace was not cheap but car is running like a champ and seams to be getting a little better MPG, mostly the filter s and the o2 senser new.
Really i dont understand how the balancer made it idle rough
Nathan's DIY Garage .
i asked the same, bmw guys said broke balencer, will not balence the bad vibes. in which the knock senser thinks the vibe is a knock, then throws the senser to retart the timeing so it wont hurt it self.
first he said they made sure the #2 knock senser was not grounding out [rubbing the wire bare] on something else, that would send a bad senser call and retart the timeing as well. which i did after a saw the youtube about knock senser wire grounding out ...
and the balancer was [squishy rubber] like an old mount. new one was not at all like that , it was hard. and i can say theres one with AC and one without, far as the harmonic balencer/vabation dampner. 595 $ so this is the last one anyone wants to replace.
lol yes that is hat sucks about these m42 and m44 engines , finding parts is getting harder and harder to do, just spark plug wires for this one was a long search on ebay
Sou ds like a nice sunny day
You brake servo pipe to the intake pipe should have 2 jubilee clips.
Never seen a brake booster hose with a clamp
Such a awesome channel
hey, i have some delited vacum lines, can someone help me and tel why should they by disconected. and should i conect them.
Could you tell me the number of your car's air mass sensor in the video ?
Hey all, I have an issue with a bmw z3 M54 2.2i. It keeps coming up with bank lean codes and misfires. Both banks and single banks, random misfires, but diagnostic says cylinder 5 is troublesome. No obvious vac leaks anywhere... fault has been getting more frequent, although the car hasn’t run much in the last six months... any thoughts??? Thanks.
You and get used a Cigar attaching to any of the intake tubes and blow the smoke into the intake looking for the leak
not sure I'd want to be doing that with a 'used' cigar
KingRichard 😂
Great Vid.
I have two bits of round sponge to place in the intakes rather than risk losin my nuts. :)
Great video. Thanks
Thanks for this video - learnt something new :)
I have a 1996 E36 316i (de-tuned 1800), I've noticed oil on my spark plugs and some smoke out the back under heavy acceleration. From what I've read up, it seems it could be the valve seal gaskets or the CCV.
How would you suggest I troubleshoot it? Perhaps do the engine and valve seals after that this procedure that you showed?
I'm an intermediate novice when working on cars. In other words, I can do a basic oil and filters service myself... and follow instructions ;)
I would first do the pcv and go from there, they are only around $7 on ebay
Nathan's DIY Garage I forgot to mention, the vehicle is due for it's regular service. I was advised to first do the service to see if it clears up and then take it from there. Do you agree with that? If so, I won't have to drain the fresh oil for any of the alternate repair suggestions if the service fails to do the trick? Thanks again.
service will not fix it, you have to do the pcv and if that dont fix it you need to more than likely do the injector cleaner i the cylinders, valve seals are not likely
Destined 1800.. haha . Ha. Ha. No.
@@loganperry8637 Detuned ;-)
for the hose that plugs into the throttle body boot, can you tell me what the replacement part number is for it? mine is damaged and need replacing but i'm not sure how to find it online. M44 318ti 1996, my setup looks different than yours by the way.
i have an m43b19 e46 318i it idles fine it can go a bit low very rarely but takes long to rev and misfires at about 5.5k so it doesnt allow you to rev higher is this from spark plugs or from a ccv? will a ccv delete fix this issue?
I have an interesting issue. My 1998 318i M43 engine starts and idles perfectly. Until I give it a good fast ride (90-100 miles an hour) at 4000 rpm and then while at that speed I put it into neutral - it won't keep rpm but try and stall. Then I rev it couple of times and then again its good. After such run when I go to full stop the engine has slightly rough idle. Do you think it's gonna be the same ICV valve problem? Thanks
Mine looks good, but its already out so I was thinking in cleanning a little, my question is if i can spray it with carb cleaner like IAC valve or if i should use another spray or doesnt spray it at all... Hope u can help me i have the same pcv from video e36 m44
If you shake the PCv value by itself is it supposed to have loose parts inside ?
The PCV is supposed to rattle on the inside, if it doesn't it means it's stuck either open or closed. IT IS supposed to rattle because that indicates that it is regulating the air. If your's doesn't rattle, just spray some throttle body cleaner, let it soak, repeat 3 more times. let it dry then hook it up. Hope it helps bro.
@@Music0uploader is the valve supposed to be open or closed when it's not working? Cus mine is open and I don't know how to test if it's working
Hi
At 12:13 you are tightening 3 bolts. Is 10 foot pounds torque correct for those bolts ??
My 318ti start but cut right back off
Does anyone know what the resistance (in mega ohms) of the bmw e36 m44 (318is) camshaft sensor ?
Is it possible you could have a misfire from a bad catalytic converter. It’s not clogged, but my car stating acting up around the time I got a p0420 code for the cat below efficiency. My car feels like it has the potential to run fine, most of the time it does, but the computer is seemingly subtracting large amounts of fuel trim when above 3,000 rpm’s or so.
Did you ever solved the problem? I have the same issue
its a 318IS ... it has a duble camshaft
did you end up finding the problem mine won't idle at all when cold and bouces around 1000 when it's warm I swapped the icv It has no codes runs really rich to its driving me nuts trying to figure it out
sold the car with it idling rough and it is still doing it but runs fine otherwise, check your throttle body boots for rips
Existe alguna aplicación donde pueda traducir este video al español ?
Маладессңғо!!!
How many miles are on it?
150k
is pcv and ccv the same item?
Probably
Yes
Need to change the lines that run down the backside of the engine. What a Pain in the ass
add some propane or what you got laying around downstream of the maf, just a touch until you see the rpm's go up just the slightest amount...if it clears up you have eliminated spark and compression,smoke machine ua-cam.com/video/2U5kFib1WxE/v-deo.html.....I did something similar and it works great...I did nickel wire going into a tiny bowl of baby oil in the can with wires to car battery
I need to try and get to it today, i will hopefully have this x5 running and driving tonight, that will be a huge project off my to do list and then i can get this 318 lined out.
M44 318 is 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️