Kyle, thanks for the video, but as far as I'm concerned "the devil is in the details". You left out all of the details that first timers need to see/know. More detail, better video images, please. Reminds me of the old Chilton manuals: Step one, remove engine and transmission. Step two, install new engine and transmission. Job done.
Kyle i come from the future.. Saab convention in illinois 2020 make sure you check the brake line before you leave.... ..I'm planing on doing the oil pan... Soon...
I have a 1997 Saab 9000 CS. We got the oil pan off after hours of trying different things. Now we are trying to go back together with it. We have all the engine mounts off and the motor is on a engine stand and we still can’t get the oil pan in. How did you get the right angle? We are thinking about cutting the aluminum guard off the axle and that should get enough room. Any suggestions?
Good informative video, but is it 5W-30 or 0W-30 that is supposed to be used for Saab? Perhaps mine is leaking a little bit in cold weather due to the lower viscosity of the 0W-30.
If the sump is sludged up, you really need to drain the OIL cooler (not intercooler), otherwise it's half a job. Best buy some replacement O rings for the oil cooler hoses if tackling that. If the sump is clean and sludge free then not really much point draining the cooler. And always best to prime with the DIC disconnected to build some oil pressure before starting - it's easy enought to do that there's no reason NOT to do it, and it's just another safety/care step worth taking.
Great video. Ever find the cause of the the oil pan gasket failure? Do you think it leaked because crankcase pressures were too high and blew the gasket ? Also, ever hear of anyone doing this same method on the 06-09 models?
Thank you! The check valve on this car was missing!!!!!! No idea what mechanic did that, but the crankcase pressure was definitely an issue. The pan gasket should be good for 100K miles without issues. These enginess always have a little oil on the pan, but never anything to be concerned about. As for the 06-09, the engines are the same. The only thing that could be different is some of the tech on the crankcase pressure. I know the PCV system was always a focus of improvement.
Kyle Pancis I've taken interest in the workings of the PCV system on my 07 ever since I found the hose going from the oil trap to the throttle body was kinked(simply because of a previous repair done on the car where the mechanic routed the hose over this bar attached to the fuel rail and not under, which when heated caused the hose to essentially mold to this metal bar and kink it). Anyways point is there was no flow going from the crankcase to the manifold. I believe it's this same hose where your check valve was missing, idk how that would have happened to your car since it's a part of the hose. But in a turbocharged car when the manifold becomes pressurized that checkvalve closes and crankcase gasses now come in right before the turbo. So even with the hose being crimped there was still venting of the crankcase, just not at idle or under deceleration. Without a checkvalve in place on your engine there was no vacuum drawing out the gasses, since air could flow into the oil trap and/or crankcase via the manifold thanks to your lack of a check valve, and then right out via the other hose leading right before the turbo. I wonder if you noticed a slight lack in boost due to manifold pressure leaking out through the PCV hose with the missing check valve. Sorry for the overly long message lol.
Thank you for this video, i started this project today, stopped till tomorrow to figure out how to get the suframe down. Now i will just jack up the tranny! Will you do some more videos? I want to put in t5 cams into my 99 saab 9-5 2.3l and im trying to figure out if i have to pull out the engine. Installing injectors, dropping in a bigger cooler. Anything will help hard to find videos on these cars! Thanks again
wes Gough no need to pull subframe. Just release the torque mount on trans and Jack it up 3 or 4 inches. It give enough room to maneuver pan around subframe
Good job!!. QUESTION PLEASE! 911!! ! Did you have oil pressure problems too because my question is IF regularly oil changed. Motor gets engine flushed with liqui moly and still doesn't stop oil pressure light on 130000 Mi 2000 Saab . Is sump removal inevitable or maybe just the oil pressure sensor? I just purchased first completely family owned 2000 Saab 9-3 convertible and have no garage or tools ANY EXPERTISE. Opinion is appreciated!!!! PLEASE HELP save our family's daily driver Saab!! Thank you
For 2.3t ys3e its very hard if you dont have tools to lift engine up because gearbox is blocking it. So you can unscrew it but removal is impossible without removing basically everything around it. Saabs are really tight under the hood
I just realized I have the same issue but I really don’t give a shit anymore. It’s my winter beater and I just dropped a grand on the air conditioner. If anything it’s good under coating for salt
Sealant needs to be anaerobic sealant, not just any old high temp or silicone sealant. Either the proper SAAB stuff or do a google for other brands (there's a few that are recommended but I can't recall the names as I just use the SAAB stuff). It's critical as the anaerobic stuff only sets when no air is present and will stay fluid if it gets in to the oil. Anything else, if it squishes too far inside and gets in to the oil, can clump up and the bits will block the pickup strainer.
Anybody some good idea how to lower the downpipe? In my case all 3 nuts came of pretty easily but the bolts are still in place and there is no wiggle room to move the downpipe around
Eurobeatmachinist86 no. You release the torque mount on the trans side. Place a block of wood there with a jack. Push that side up, it gives you enough leverage to maneuver around subframe...like a walk in the park. Crazy engineering haha
No, Saab is a relic here in ATL. My sister is driving hers INTO the ground. I Came here for Saab jargon while looking for parts. Found you, same model, same issue... I think. Thanks for the upload, very thorough! 🤓
@@jerzyfabjan1982 thanks bud I had car on blocks jacked engine up got oil pan to slide out your video helped so much no one covers this vehicle bro like wtf.. Had to drop oil pan to put o-ring on oil level sensor to stop the leak.. got in the oil pan to find someone past owner has dropped part of oil cap into engine engine then chopped that plastic up and I found it in oil pan crazy tbh
Kyle, thanks for the video, but as far as I'm concerned "the devil is in the details". You left out all of the details that first timers need to see/know. More detail, better video images, please. Reminds me of the old Chilton manuals: Step one, remove engine and transmission. Step two, install new engine and transmission. Job done.
Exactly what bolt is it that you unbolt on the torque mount? I see a few different ones. Thank you 🙏🏻
Why would you cut the only part of the video that mattered smart
Would you recommend to only use Loctite 518 and not an oil pan gasket? And why?
Kyle i come from the future.. Saab convention in illinois 2020 make sure you check the brake line before you leave.... ..I'm planing on doing the oil pan... Soon...
I have a 1997 Saab 9000 CS. We got the oil pan off after hours of trying different things. Now we are trying to go back together with it. We have all the engine mounts off and the motor is on a engine stand and we still can’t get the oil pan in. How did you get the right angle? We are thinking about cutting the aluminum guard off the axle and that should get enough room. Any suggestions?
Lift the transmission side up to get around subframe
Good informative video, but is it 5W-30 or 0W-30 that is supposed to be used for Saab? Perhaps mine is leaking a little bit in cold weather due to the lower viscosity of the 0W-30.
on these engines, i alway have used 5w-30. Newer 9-3's use a 0W-40 or 5W-30, I use 0W-40 on them though. Glad to help
Good job! You da Man!
Hi, 1 question, before lifting up the transmission, do you have to unbolt it someway? Thanks!
SCREW IT! Yes, just unbolt the one bolt on the torque mount
Hi Kyle- Are you saying remove the front transmission mount? Do you also have to drop or lower the passenger side sub-frame? Thanks,
Does someone have any knowledge on this fix??? Why did he drop the exhaust to do a gasket seal or drop oil pan???
Did you just start her up or did you do a couple of 10 second starts with the fuel pump fuse pulled to build oil pressure?
22chachalaca just started it up!
Kyle Pancis ever drain the oil cooler? I think my sump is sludges and some probably made its way into the cooler.
I have not drained the intercooler before. Sludge wont make it past the sump, but you can sludge at the top of the motor.
Kyle Pancis alright I'll probably skip that step then lol.
If the sump is sludged up, you really need to drain the OIL cooler (not intercooler), otherwise it's half a job. Best buy some replacement O rings for the oil cooler hoses if tackling that. If the sump is clean and sludge free then not really much point draining the cooler. And always best to prime with the DIC disconnected to build some oil pressure before starting - it's easy enought to do that there's no reason NOT to do it, and it's just another safety/care step worth taking.
Great video. Ever find the cause of the the oil pan gasket failure? Do you think it leaked because crankcase pressures were too high and blew the gasket ? Also, ever hear of anyone doing this same method on the 06-09 models?
Thank you! The check valve on this car was missing!!!!!! No idea what mechanic did that, but the crankcase pressure was definitely an issue. The pan gasket should be good for 100K miles without issues. These enginess always have a little oil on the pan, but never anything to be concerned about. As for the 06-09, the engines are the same. The only thing that could be different is some of the tech on the crankcase pressure. I know the PCV system was always a focus of improvement.
Kyle Pancis I've taken interest in the workings of the PCV system on my 07 ever since I found the hose going from the oil trap to the throttle body was kinked(simply because of a previous repair done on the car where the mechanic routed the hose over this bar attached to the fuel rail and not under, which when heated caused the hose to essentially mold to this metal bar and kink it). Anyways point is there was no flow going from the crankcase to the manifold. I believe it's this same hose where your check valve was missing, idk how that would have happened to your car since it's a part of the hose. But in a turbocharged car when the manifold becomes pressurized that checkvalve closes and crankcase gasses now come in right before the turbo. So even with the hose being crimped there was still venting of the crankcase, just not at idle or under deceleration. Without a checkvalve in place on your engine there was no vacuum drawing out the gasses, since air could flow into the oil trap and/or crankcase via the manifold thanks to your lack of a check valve, and then right out via the other hose leading right before the turbo. I wonder if you noticed a slight lack in boost due to manifold pressure leaking out through the PCV hose with the missing check valve. Sorry for the overly long message lol.
On few saabs there is 2 secret bolts
Thank you for this video, i started this project today, stopped till tomorrow to figure out how to get the suframe down. Now i will just jack up the tranny! Will you do some more videos? I want to put in t5 cams into my 99 saab 9-5 2.3l and im trying to figure out if i have to pull out the engine. Installing injectors, dropping in a bigger cooler. Anything will help hard to find videos on these cars! Thanks again
wes Gough no need to pull subframe. Just release the torque mount on trans and Jack it up 3 or 4 inches. It give enough room to maneuver pan around subframe
wes Gough use a wrench to get bolts out where the frame is blocking
Thanks man! What did you use to clean the pan? Do you have any experience with camshafts? Forums can be hard to follow
Good job!!. QUESTION PLEASE! 911!! ! Did you have oil pressure problems too because my question is IF regularly oil changed. Motor gets engine flushed with liqui moly and still doesn't stop oil pressure light on 130000 Mi 2000 Saab . Is sump removal inevitable or maybe just the oil pressure sensor? I just purchased first completely family owned 2000 Saab 9-3 convertible and have no garage or tools ANY EXPERTISE. Opinion is appreciated!!!! PLEASE HELP save our family's daily driver Saab!! Thank you
Mokly wont help
Is it a hard job to take off the oil pan?
Very easy. Just some time.
How much would a shop charge?
@@armandoramirez4985 prob 4 hours of labor. Plus so cleaning supplies and gaskets
For 2.3t ys3e its very hard if you dont have tools to lift engine up because gearbox is blocking it. So you can unscrew it but removal is impossible without removing basically everything around it. Saabs are really tight under the hood
Depends
I just realized I have the same issue but I really don’t give a shit anymore. It’s my winter beater and I just dropped a grand on the air conditioner. If anything it’s good under coating for salt
Did you use a new gasket or just gasket maker wondering if i should spend 40$ on gasket or not
NO gasket needed! Grab an 8 dollar tube of high heat gasket maker! Red tube. Good Luck
Kyle Pancis sweet thanks man big help
My please! Best of luck
Sealant needs to be anaerobic sealant, not just any old high temp or silicone sealant. Either the proper SAAB stuff or do a google for other brands (there's a few that are recommended but I can't recall the names as I just use the SAAB stuff). It's critical as the anaerobic stuff only sets when no air is present and will stay fluid if it gets in to the oil. Anything else, if it squishes too far inside and gets in to the oil, can clump up and the bits will block the pickup strainer.
Kyle you should get a electic cordless wrench for those exhaust bolts :-)
So much so. I have one. I felt like less of a man for getting one lol but it’s totally worth it.
Anybody some good idea how to lower the downpipe? In my case all 3 nuts came of pretty easily but the bolts are still in place and there is no wiggle room to move the downpipe around
???
Did you loosened the subframe bolts to get the pan out?
Eurobeatmachinist86 no. You release the torque mount on the trans side. Place a block of wood there with a jack. Push that side up, it gives you enough leverage to maneuver around subframe...like a walk in the park. Crazy engineering haha
Kyle Pancis thank you for fast answer👍
😫wish you were in ATLANTA to help us!!
haha! me too!
any good local shop you trust at least??
No, Saab is a relic here in ATL. My sister is driving hers INTO the ground. I Came here for Saab jargon while looking for parts. Found you, same model, same issue... I think. Thanks for the upload, very thorough! 🤓
@@gourmetchix7970 :) thank you! good luck with everything! let me know if you ever have any questions.
Hey Kyle what did you torque the exhaust to when you put it back on?
Why did he drop the exhaust when he was doing gasket seal and oil pan drop
@@jimalaniz7525 you have to (you have to if you want to do it easy way) lift up engine to remove oil pan. For me it was saab 2.3t 2005
@@jerzyfabjan1982 thanks bud I had car on blocks jacked engine up got oil pan to slide out your video helped so much no one covers this vehicle bro like wtf..
Had to drop oil pan to put o-ring on oil level sensor to stop the leak.. got in the oil pan to find someone past owner has dropped part of oil cap into engine engine then chopped that plastic up and I found it in oil pan crazy tbh
I have a hole in my oil pan and less oil underneath than this rig! Lol