Thanks again for another video. One thing I've never heard coverd in any length is losing Kits to rats. I started off with my rabbits in a large colony with an earth floor. I ended up losing at least half of my kits to Rats! Which is a terrible experience. I now have build rat proof cages with runs on grass for my grow outs. The experience of losing my Kits nearly made me give up all together.
I had my NZ in a hutch that had 3'x3' cages that were angled roof - 23-37" - they were happy - unfortunately my life circumstances changed and I had to move my rabbits to a friends farm. Hoping to get back to them one day, I enjoyed having them around.
Thanks for this video. Once the yard is fenced, rabbit cages come next. I’m planning on a Trio. So 4 cages and a grow out pen (always better to have more than you need) I’m thinking 2ft by 4ft for the 4 cages, then 2ft by 6ft for the grow out pen.
Basic advice here is room for 2-3 hops and laying fully stretched out plus high enough to sit up on the hind feet (mostly for pet rabbits, but it is a start and more usefull than 1m2/10sqf2 minimum). 2 feet deep (60cm) is about max i want due to my armlength. Height based on petbunny cages about 45-50cm for anything up to standard size rabbit. Note that if you sell rabbits for breeding or pets, your customers need to have a good impression. Have good explanations for why you do what regarding cage size and so on. Breeding requires other choices regarding accomodation than pet rabbits, but don't use it as a catch all excuse. Breeding does are in 100x50 now and will transition into 120x60 (4 feet by 2 feet) when i can find the needed trays (solid floor cages due to rental accomodations and what is common and accepted here). Likely along with doe kit(s) retained for breeding untill next breeding or untill freezer ready if that goes well. Prefer more squarish cages along with the 2 feet/60cm deep part, that makes it easier for the rabbit to get around the cage without twisting its body to turn (Some ready made outdoor cages are like 1 foot! deep, although 6+feet long). Some rabbits are happier in smaller cages and even agressive in bigger ones, others may be the opposite. Rabbit dens are also small, harder for a predator to get at them when there is little room to move around. Although something to hide in/on/under can fix that. Exercise though is an important part of health right along with enough room to partition the cage in a eating/toilet area and a resting/nest area. Most animals don't soil their nest if given the chance, larger cages make that possible. Even with wire flooring not everything falls through always esp. if straw is given due to cold weather or the cage is a solid floor one.
boby ...?? I have a small breed doe that use to have kits fine , but recently she gets them stuck 1/2 way out and she has them stuck for a whyle and die before she gets them out ...
She sounds heavy Extra internal fat can pinch off the fallopian tubes causing small litters and big kits to deliver and also cause delivery problems This can actually kill her try to cut her food back after raising the litter and weaning them
Excellent channel very informative if I start with 3 does will 1 buck be able to handle it! I’m thinking 3 to counter the hot summers in south texas????
If I was raising rabbits in Texas, I would entertain running totes burrowed in the cool soil, located in full-time shade, maybe even misters and solar fans Here's a video that shares more info on raising rabbits in the heat. See if you can find some Tamuk rabbits best of luck! ua-cam.com/video/kzCicl71QOo/v-deo.html
@@TheRabbitryCenter i appreciate it I actually started watching this one I’ve been binge watching all your videos!! I will be heading to the bees next!!
I appreciate that you provide your rabbits with actual hay, some solid floor and a house to jump up on sir. You also seem to be respectful when lifting and handling. Can't tell you how many of the rabbit videos I've come across on this platform where their methods can only be described as animal cruelty. Larger space is always a good thing. An animal that is allowed to properly stretch their body will develop actual muscles and in general be both happier and healthier. I've done this for 30 years and for me outdoor pens (16 square meters) where the does go together (5 per pen) has been the most successful. They have their individual houses providing shade and rain protection but tend to snuggle up by together - these are social animals. I use wood chip as ground cover, easy and cheap to maintain over time. If you have the land there is absolutely no reason to not give your rabbits as much space as possible.
Love your videos, but your units are off. At 6:16 minutes in, you have 3' x 2.5' x1.5' = 11.25 ft^2 but that should either be cubed feet (volume) or if you meant to say how much ground space they need then you only have 3' x 2.5' = 7.5 ft^2
GREAT VIDEO Bobby. Thank you. Ok there is a difference between cubic ft. and square ft. When using the 3rd. measurement it becomes cubic ft. I do believe the ARBA goes by square feet on there recommendation , which I think is like 1/2 sq. ft. per pound. I think you all get the point on size without splitting hairs. If you have ever had to live in a camper or small apt. for any length of time , you know what it is like to live in the minimum requirements. I have and I want better then minimum for my rabbits. My does start out in a 30x48x20. Once the kits are mobile , doe and kits go into a 30x60x24. Doe gets rebred at 5 to 6 weeks and put back in her cage a week later , to start the process over. My bucks are in 30x36x24. That's just what works for me and my rabbits. Not necessarily you and your rabbits.
I really appreciate ALL of your content about rabbits and gardening particularly! I trust your advice over all others especially about rabbits! How old should kits be to go in a rabbit tractor? Any precautions? Years ago I lost an entire liter of 10 kits in a tractor… I was told it was because of a mold or fungus growing in the grass from being too much rain on it just prior to this. Would you consider this a common issue? How should I prepare for this possibility or combat it? Thanks!
Thanks for watching! 8 weeks. Add hay and branches process at 10-12 weeks. Feed a small amount of pellet too. Fungus on grass-have a backup plan, If your recieving a lot of rain cage the rabbits until things try up.
I have quail hatching time cages. I’m still trying to figure it out, but it looks like I can’t eat the eggs. Allergic to eggs possibly. Could I use these cages for rabbits? The cages have dividers that remove.
1Cuft per lb so a 10lb rabbit gets a 30”x30x18” cage. this is a sufficient amount of space or your rabbit or you can go 36” wide but i’d stick to 30” deep so you can reach them.
I am going to all 36×30, really because they not that expensive i believe a rural king country roads 36*×30 is 41.99 like 10.00 cheaper than pet lodge and much better quality and plus my frames i am starting to build 16ft long by 36 inches deep can hold 5 of those cages and have room at the end for a box type fan in the summer months. Another thing i started doing is what i saw on one of your videos is giving them small chunks of untreated 2×4, they absolutly love that. I really want to try to try the tote nest set up you have to see bow that works for me.
Thank you for taking the time to write your comment. Before buying the cages, double check that they’re galvanized because most cages sold in stores are painted with a black or chrome paint and baked at high temperatures, and after they’re exposed to condensation, the oxidation will start to quickly corrode the cages, and they will start to crumble after a couple years. Here’s a video that shares a little more information on cages and how to build a galvanized cage for under 20$ ua-cam.com/video/z2dsUQ5ddE8/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
I check my rabbits for gunky eyes soon as the eyes start to open. I just clean the gunky ones with warm water a little soap if they are real bad. then at about 3 weeks when the kits are jumping around and furred out good I take all the nest fur hay etc out and make a fresh hay nest for them. I think the old fur and hay getting nasty is what gets the eyes gunky.
Square feet is the length times width of the cage only. Just like the sqft of your house doesn’t consider ceiling heights. The numbers you used are cubic feet (volume of your cages) not the square feet (area) of your cages. I don’t think this detracts from the good info you provided, just might want to annotate the text.
Question I bought full size silver fox rabbits and I don't know how to get them in and out of the cages. They freek out when i try to pick them up !! The cage doors are huge so that's not a problem. So how do I pick them up ?
Another thing i am wanting to try is rabbit tractors i planted some really good pasture mix for my steers and since they are no longer here i dont want to just keep having to mow it down.
you may enjoy these videos Tractor ua-cam.com/video/-3iOJJ-lFAY/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared Food plot ua-cam.com/video/FuHC1kqkyYk/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
A little confusing because square feet are not the same as cubic feet and throughout most of the video you keep talking about square feet, but your dimensions reference cubic feet????
Yes the same for bucks but nursing doe's it's .6 sqft per pound So 6 sqft for a ten pound mama doe. To simplify the whole system I use a 30 x 30 x 18" for bucks and dry doe's And a 30x36"x18 for nursing doe's
My rabbits move around a lot. Lol I have one that stays in the run. Of course, her name is sassy! We don’t breed her because she doesn’t have the best disposition. We did once and those bunnies were nuts too. Not mean, just nuts. Just very active. 😂 Ive come a long way in a year and half. Thanks for your channel or I’d still be lost. 😂
I have always used 30x36x24h for each rabbit (New Zealand, Calif, Checkered Giant) just to keep it simple rather than making different sized cages. The only exception is that I did have two 30x48x24 cages for grow outs. I started raising rabbits as a Boy Scout Merit Badge project and continued on with FFA meat production rabbits. It was a wonderful experience.
Thank you so much for sharing your videos I really appreciate this because I'm going to have my own Rabbitry bussiness I learned a lot watching fr phillipines shout out to my another channel in Rabbitry Leyi AGRI FARM
@@TheRabbitryCenter yup! They are all eating pellet and hay. I had to put moms feed bowl up higher so she could eat! Now they have a whole j feeder and mom has her pellet, oats, and treats in her own bowl. I see them nurse once in a while so I just wait until 4 1/2 weeks and pull them
This is great, Thank you! I acquired a rabbit....she then had kits I had planned to breed in a couple of years anyway so I was just gifted with a chance to start earlier but now Im trying to learn all I can.
@@TheRabbitryCenter Im going to go through all your old videos, I built my hutches but Im not sure I like the style, mine have the wire attached to the frame, I saw another youtuber had cages that slide into the frame, do you have a opinion as to which is better?
So, I experimented with a smaller rabbit tractor for an aggressive/hyper buck (~8mo old, it was either cull for meat or see if this tractor works). I used 1/2 x 1/2 in. 19g hardware cloth for the the sides but used some old chicken wire for the bottom. This way the holes on the bottom were bigger so that grass could still get through. What I found is that even chicken wire just smashes the grass down instead of allowing to pop through. Kind of a failed experiment for me, but didn't know if there was something better to use for the bottom.
Though it still makes taller grass smash down, I'm finding rabbits will still be able to eat the grass using I think it's 2x4 welded wire, the fencing type material. For the taller grass sometimes I'll even reach in and pull grass up but definitely works better for me than the chicken wire I first tried!
How have you built the things you claimed to have built, yet don't understand the difference between square feet and cubic feet? That doesn't make sense.
Perhaps we should say it nicely...we will lose so much in our lives as the constant hatefulness continues to cycle around. Be the one who changed the atmosphere be the one who speaks the truth boldly but in brotherly kindness. As we all realize we reap what we sow. Sow seeds of the kind of harvest you would love to receive! Otherwise we continue the hate cycle and end up with a dark heart and very bad seed. This is the truth, "Love conquers All!" What seed will you plant next time.
@@TheRabbitryCenter I think your videos are great and you help so many people. Disregard people like this one that want to be rude and crab on about sq ft and cubic feet.... Bobby you're an inspiration and those of us that watch you all the time, appreciate all you do and share. Keep doing such wonderful videos for those of use that can look past a simple error.
Thanks again for another video. One thing I've never heard coverd in any length is losing Kits to rats. I started off with my rabbits in a large colony with an earth floor. I ended up losing at least half of my kits to Rats! Which is a terrible experience. I now have build rat proof cages with runs on grass for my grow outs. The experience of losing my Kits nearly made me give up all together.
That is horrible! My sister experienced this with her ducklings.
Im sorry you went through that our biggest predator problem is raccoons
Great video, great info! Only hang up is you are saying square feet but mean cubic feet (since adding height).
You’re right cuft not sqft it’s
I put it in the thumbnail
I had my NZ in a hutch that had 3'x3' cages that were angled roof - 23-37" - they were happy - unfortunately my life circumstances changed and I had to move my rabbits to a friends farm. Hoping to get back to them one day, I enjoyed having them around.
That’s a good size hutch -I recommend rabbits for every property-thanks so much for watching!
@@TheRabbitryCenter it was really nice! Unfortunately the new place we moved has too many predators and I am not able to fence it just yet.
Our rabbits have their own room/ apartment! They're related males. Their apartment is a tiny house outside.
Very nice!
Thanks for this video. Once the yard is fenced, rabbit cages come next. I’m planning on a Trio. So 4 cages and a grow out pen (always better to have more than you need) I’m thinking 2ft by 4ft for the 4 cages, then 2ft by 6ft for the grow out pen.
Best of luck with your new production.
Thanks for watching!
Basic advice here is room for 2-3 hops and laying fully stretched out plus high enough to sit up on the hind feet (mostly for pet rabbits, but it is a start and more usefull than 1m2/10sqf2 minimum). 2 feet deep (60cm) is about max i want due to my armlength. Height based on petbunny cages about 45-50cm for anything up to standard size rabbit. Note that if you sell rabbits for breeding or pets, your customers need to have a good impression. Have good explanations for why you do what regarding cage size and so on. Breeding requires other choices regarding accomodation than pet rabbits, but don't use it as a catch all excuse.
Breeding does are in 100x50 now and will transition into 120x60 (4 feet by 2 feet) when i can find the needed trays (solid floor cages due to rental accomodations and what is common and accepted here). Likely along with doe kit(s) retained for breeding untill next breeding or untill freezer ready if that goes well. Prefer more squarish cages along with the 2 feet/60cm deep part, that makes it easier for the rabbit to get around the cage without twisting its body to turn (Some ready made outdoor cages are like 1 foot! deep, although 6+feet long). Some rabbits are happier in smaller cages and even agressive in bigger ones, others may be the opposite. Rabbit dens are also small, harder for a predator to get at them when there is little room to move around. Although something to hide in/on/under can fix that. Exercise though is an important part of health right along with enough room to partition the cage in a eating/toilet area and a resting/nest area. Most animals don't soil their nest if given the chance, larger cages make that possible. Even with wire flooring not everything falls through always esp. if straw is given due to cold weather or the cage is a solid floor one.
Thank you for sharing your experiences!
boby ...?? I have a small breed doe that use to have kits fine , but recently she gets them stuck 1/2 way out and she has them stuck for a whyle and die before she gets them out ...
She sounds heavy
Extra internal fat can pinch off the fallopian tubes causing small litters and big kits to deliver
and also cause delivery problems
This can actually kill her try to cut her food back after raising the litter and weaning them
Excellent channel very informative if I start with 3 does will 1 buck be able to handle it! I’m thinking 3 to counter the hot summers in south texas????
If I was raising rabbits in Texas, I would entertain running totes burrowed in the cool soil, located in full-time shade, maybe even misters and solar fans
Here's a video that shares more info on raising rabbits in the heat. See if you can find some Tamuk rabbits best of luck!
ua-cam.com/video/kzCicl71QOo/v-deo.html
@@TheRabbitryCenter i appreciate it I actually started watching this one I’ve been binge watching all your videos!! I will be heading to the bees next!!
What do you use to stop fleas on you rabbits?
Diatomaceous earth -dust bath
amzn.to/3Nmakzs
I appreciate that you provide your rabbits with actual hay, some solid floor and a house to jump up on sir. You also seem to be respectful when lifting and handling. Can't tell you how many of the rabbit videos I've come across on this platform where their methods can only be described as animal cruelty.
Larger space is always a good thing. An animal that is allowed to properly stretch their body will develop actual muscles and in general be both happier and healthier. I've done this for 30 years and for me outdoor pens (16 square meters) where the does go together (5 per pen) has been the most successful. They have their individual houses providing shade and rain protection but tend to snuggle up by together - these are social animals. I use wood chip as ground cover, easy and cheap to maintain over time. If you have the land there is absolutely no reason to not give your rabbits as much space as possible.
30 years is a long time. Thank you so much for sharing I enjoyed reading it!
Love your videos, but your units are off. At 6:16 minutes in, you have 3' x 2.5' x1.5' = 11.25 ft^2 but that should either be cubed feet (volume) or if you meant to say how much ground space they need then you only have 3' x 2.5' = 7.5 ft^2
I meant cubed feet not sqft
GREAT VIDEO Bobby. Thank you.
Ok there is a difference between cubic ft. and square ft. When using the 3rd. measurement it becomes cubic ft.
I do believe the ARBA goes by square feet on there recommendation , which I think is like 1/2 sq. ft. per pound. I think you all get the point on size without splitting hairs.
If you have ever had to live in a camper or small apt. for any length of time , you know what it is like to live in the minimum requirements. I have and I want better then minimum for my rabbits.
My does start out in a 30x48x20. Once the kits are mobile , doe and kits go into a 30x60x24. Doe gets rebred at 5 to 6 weeks and put back in her cage a week later , to start the process over.
My bucks are in 30x36x24. That's just what works for me and my rabbits. Not necessarily you and your rabbits.
Thank you for sharing
Isn't the reason rabbits are raised this
way, specifically, for the purpose of
'splitting hares'?
I agree! We have 43” cages for all adult rabbits.
I really appreciate ALL of your content about rabbits and gardening particularly! I trust your advice over all others especially about rabbits! How old should kits be to go in a rabbit tractor? Any precautions? Years ago I lost an entire liter of 10 kits in a tractor… I was told it was because of a mold or fungus growing in the grass from being too much rain on it just prior to this. Would you consider this a common issue? How should I prepare for this possibility or combat it? Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
8 weeks. Add hay and branches process at 10-12 weeks. Feed a small amount of pellet too.
Fungus on grass-have a backup plan, If your recieving a lot of rain cage the rabbits until things try up.
I have quail hatching time cages. I’m still trying to figure it out, but it looks like I can’t eat the eggs. Allergic to eggs possibly. Could I use these cages for rabbits? The cages have dividers that remove.
1Cuft per lb so a 10lb rabbit gets a 30”x30x18” cage. this is a sufficient amount of space or your rabbit or you can go 36” wide but i’d stick to 30” deep so you can reach them.
I could give mine a whole garage and they will still spend 98 percent of their time in one corner.
so true!
30 x 30 cage (2.5 feet by 2.5 feet) is only 6.25 sq feet. You do not count the 3rd dimension when calculating sq footage.
That’s correct Cubic feet is different
I am going to all 36×30, really because they not that expensive i believe a rural king country roads 36*×30 is 41.99 like 10.00 cheaper than pet lodge and much better quality and plus my frames i am starting to build 16ft long by 36 inches deep can hold 5 of those cages and have room at the end for a box type fan in the summer months. Another thing i started doing is what i saw on one of your videos is giving them small chunks of untreated 2×4, they absolutly love that. I really want to try to try the tote nest set up you have to see bow that works for me.
Thank you for taking the time to write your comment. Before buying the cages, double check that they’re galvanized because most cages sold in stores are painted with a black or chrome paint and baked at high temperatures, and after they’re exposed to condensation, the oxidation will start to quickly corrode the cages, and they will start to crumble after a couple years.
Here’s a video that shares a little more information on cages and how to build a galvanized cage for under 20$ ua-cam.com/video/z2dsUQ5ddE8/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
I check my rabbits for gunky eyes soon as the eyes start to open. I just clean the gunky ones with warm water a little soap if they are real bad. then at about 3 weeks when the kits are jumping around and furred out good I take all the nest fur hay etc out and make a fresh hay nest for them. I think the old fur and hay getting nasty is what gets the eyes gunky.
Thank you for sharing!
Square feet is the length times width of the cage only. Just like the sqft of your house doesn’t consider ceiling heights. The numbers you used are cubic feet (volume of your cages) not the square feet (area) of your cages. I don’t think this detracts from the good info you provided, just might want to annotate the text.
Cubed feet not squared feet
I apologize for the confusion hopefully you can still find value in the video
I definitely get a lot of great info, and I appreciate you sharing it!
Thank you very much. I had to watch for awhile and figuredout he was doing cubic feet not square feet. Thanks
Question
I bought full size silver fox rabbits and I don't know how to get them in and out of the cages. They freek out when i try to pick them up !!
The cage doors are huge so that's not a problem. So how do I pick them up ?
Here's a video that may help you
ua-cam.com/video/z87T4Ebm2oY/v-deo.html
@@TheRabbitryCenter
Thank you I watched the video bit my guys are to big to scruff and pick up like that .plus the kicking
Another thing i am wanting to try is rabbit tractors i planted some really good pasture mix for my steers and since they are no longer here i dont want to just keep having to mow it down.
you may enjoy these videos
Tractor ua-cam.com/video/-3iOJJ-lFAY/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Food plot ua-cam.com/video/FuHC1kqkyYk/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Hi..... Thank you for showing your video Rabbit 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 🐇🎥👍👍👍
A little confusing because square feet are not the same as cubic feet and throughout most of the video you keep talking about square feet, but your dimensions reference cubic feet????
You’re right I meant cubic feet
So am I understanding that it’s .5 sqft then per lb? Is this the same for Bucks? Not sure what size they should be then 😅
Yes the same for bucks but nursing doe's it's .6 sqft per pound
So 6 sqft for a ten pound mama doe.
To simplify the whole system I use a
30 x 30 x 18" for bucks and dry doe's
And a 30x36"x18 for nursing doe's
Do you send rabbits to other countries... Nigeria for example
Sorry Pick up only
My rabbits move around a lot. Lol
I have one that stays in the run. Of course, her name is sassy! We don’t breed her because she doesn’t have the best disposition. We did once and those bunnies were nuts too. Not mean, just nuts. Just very active. 😂
Ive come a long way in a year and half. Thanks for your channel or I’d still be lost. 😂
Thank you for sharing your experiences!
I have always used 30x36x24h for each rabbit (New Zealand, Calif, Checkered Giant) just to keep it simple rather than making different sized cages. The only exception is that I did have two 30x48x24 cages for grow outs. I started raising rabbits as a Boy Scout Merit Badge project and continued on with FFA meat production rabbits. It was a wonderful experience.
thank you for taking the time to share I think FFA is a Terrific program!
Pls answer me is this inches or cm
@@princejamesp.sanchez4230 inches
at around 8:25, look to the bottom right of the screen, you got some serious cage maintenance to do! The floor is gaping open.
It was fixed with a piece of 6"x30" cage wire bent at a 90 degree fixed to the cage with j clips. Thanks for the heads up
Thank you so much for sharing your videos I really appreciate this because I'm going to have my own Rabbitry bussiness I learned a lot watching fr phillipines shout out to my another channel in Rabbitry Leyi AGRI FARM
Best of luck with your business.
Thanks for watching!
My rabbits are in 6ft by 3ft movable tractors.
Sounds great!
So I'm confused, isn't it about space and not eye infection?
We We only discuss eye infections for a couple minutes and then we get to the spacing
Great video
Thanks is for watching!
I started a rabbitry and am loosing lots of kits . What should I do ?
I'm making a video about this it should upload this weekend. STAY TUNED....
OK sir I'll try my best to give reasonable space to my rabbits 🐇. Informative video. Thank you sir
Thanks for watching
Could you please look up the difference between square feet and cubic feet
CU FT not SQ FT I misspoke in the video
I’m just starting to raise rabbits. So much to learn!
Thanks for watching!
@@TheRabbitryCenter you’re welcome. 🥰
Thank you my friend
You're very welcome!
That's cubic feet
I guess that's already been pointed out lol
This was a great video for us! We are getting into meat rabbits--thank you for this information!
So glad you liked it!
My does won’t feed the kits past 4 weeks. They wean them off quick lol
They probably get a taste of that delicious pellet and quit hitting up the milk factory
@@TheRabbitryCenter yup! They are all eating pellet and hay. I had to put moms feed bowl up higher so she could eat!
Now they have a whole j feeder and mom has her pellet, oats, and treats in her own bowl.
I see them nurse once in a while so I just wait until 4 1/2 weeks and pull them
This is great, Thank you! I acquired a rabbit....she then had kits I had planned to breed in a couple of years anyway so I was just gifted with a chance to start earlier but now Im trying to learn all I can.
Let me know if you're looking for something specific- thanks for watching!
@@TheRabbitryCenter Im going to go through all your old videos, I built my hutches but Im not sure I like the style, mine have the wire attached to the frame, I saw another youtuber had cages that slide into the frame, do you have a opinion as to which is better?
I always learn so much from your channel. Thank you so much!
Your very welcome! Thanks for watching!
we need more frequent videos
I’ll try to upload more in the future
That math just ain’t mathin.
Cubed not squared
So, I experimented with a smaller rabbit tractor for an aggressive/hyper buck (~8mo old, it was either cull for meat or see if this tractor works). I used 1/2 x 1/2 in. 19g hardware cloth for the the sides but used some old chicken wire for the bottom. This way the holes on the bottom were bigger so that grass could still get through. What I found is that even chicken wire just smashes the grass down instead of allowing to pop through. Kind of a failed experiment for me, but didn't know if there was something better to use for the bottom.
Thank you for taking the time to write your comment and share your experiences!
Though it still makes taller grass smash down, I'm finding rabbits will still be able to eat the grass using I think it's 2x4 welded wire, the fencing type material. For the taller grass sometimes I'll even reach in and pull grass up but definitely works better for me than the chicken wire I first tried!
How have you built the things you claimed to have built, yet don't understand the difference between square feet and cubic feet?
That doesn't make sense.
Cubic feet not square feet
Thanks for asking
There’s videos on him building.
Perhaps we should say it nicely...we will lose so much in our lives as the constant hatefulness continues to cycle around. Be the one who changed the atmosphere be the one who speaks the truth boldly but in brotherly kindness. As we all realize we reap what we sow. Sow seeds of the kind of harvest you would love to receive! Otherwise we continue the hate cycle and end up with a dark heart and very bad seed. This is the truth, "Love conquers All!" What seed will you plant next time.
@@TheRabbitryCenter I think your videos are great and you help so many people. Disregard people like this one that want to be rude and crab on about sq ft and cubic feet.... Bobby you're an inspiration and those of us that watch you all the time, appreciate all you do and share. Keep doing such wonderful videos for those of use that can look past a simple error.
JCS please post a link to your videos I can’t wait to see how it’s done