When my family researched this 2 years ago we found you only need to dig down 2 feet, and that's true. We made a dome for our rabbits with 2 feet of wire fencing underground, and they freely live in there. Just for reference, if you don't cull them, they decide to stop breeding if there's not enough room. They actually know when to stop. We found with a 30ft diameter dome, with a 4x4 square entrance, that's a 40 rabbit limit that THEY place on themselves. 😂
What material did you use for your dome? This is especially interesting to me as I've recently build a sub-terrainian green house (walipini) that was pretty simple also.
@@mickeyrussell1665 we bought connectors for a dome-shaped pvc pipe greenhouse. I believe we used 2 inch pvc pipe. We did this during the time there were wood shortages soon after Covid hit, and the cost of wood skyrocketed past pvc pipe. We used wire fasteners to wrap wiring around the pvc, and the entrance is a cattle fence bent over for the top, and framed with wood, and wood frame door with mostly wire. In hindsight, we should have used hardware cloth, because the chicken wire is now rusting underground. Don't use chicken wire if you want it to last. You can also buy connectors for a dome-shape that is designed for wood 2x4s. I don't remember where we bought the connectors, but you can probably just Google it. Edit: BTW, we only put wire up 6 feet (a 4 ft wire, with 2 ft underground, 2 ft above, and then another 4 feet above that)...the top has a tarp over it to prevent torrential downpour of rain, we have it in a shaded area to keep them cool as well. The fencing is high enough to keep dogs and coyotes out (or uninterested), and the tarp makes it so the wingspan of a hawk or owl can't just swoop in and snatch dinner, so they've been really safe, and I always have an easy opening to dump grass, weeds and leftover greens from the kitchen in. It's worked really well. During spring, I have so many weeds to spare, and don't give them pellets. I've literally fed them nothing but weeds and grass for the last 2 months. 😂 I just have a weed pulling routine everyday, with a huge baggy container (sometimes I use a wheelbarrow).
My parents had such a colony setup, when I was a child. It worked great for a few years, but then the rabbits managed to dig down below the barriers at the side and escaped. The family dog helped to catch them all, but the setup had to be redone with an additional barrier below. Unfortunately, after that, the setup never worked again, the soil was not compact enough and the tunnels collapsed over the rabbits. So, that is something to get done correctly from the start. For my family that problem was the end of keeping rabbits, because there was no time to fix it and keeping them in separate cages did neither benefit the animals nor us.
This was great. I have not 're-started' raising rabbits yet, but as a kid we hunted rabbits and I always thought it a bit strange to raise in cages for meat. Sort of like free range chickens... free range rabbits.
I really like the rain barrel water system coupled with the redundant hose system. This level of attention to detail shows how much you really care for the wellbeing of your livestock. Well done.
I also find bucks to be the most friendly bunnies. Mine comes running when I come outside and he just 'melts' when I pet him. He's such a sweet boy. My females are generally more territorial and like their space/freedom more, don't love being held but do come around for pets on 'their terms', lol
Yep, reflects their lives in the wild. Once sexually mature, the bucks are driven from the colony and live more solitary lives, so they appreciate our attention. Does are rabbit-social creatures that groom each other and socialize. If you really want to bond with bucks, pet them on the forehead and rub the "sleepies" out of their eyes. They cant self groom the eyes well, so when we rub the crusties off everytime we interact with them, they really love it.
Thank you for this! Was looking into getting some meat rabbits, but hated that the information on it was so reliant on the tiny cages, and it also seemed too work intensive for us, but I'm very glad to see an alternative. Love the idea with digging down so they can have room to burrow!
Plus in colony, the rabbits are wonderful and happy. You get to see how rabbit society actually works. Watching a male hang out with his babies is awesome. Cons. Many many many many many babies , so many babies. No idea of age of the cull rabbit We raise ours in a garage. No worries about them digging out. Plus all wire will corrode. Also no worries about babies being dead in. A burrow.
I would love your insights on double pregnancies? My one doe just had two litters about two weeks apart. I prefer my buck to have permanent company and he is so gentle with his babies (up to weaning age), but the internet says it is bad for my doe?
@user-pm7ck6ij9s im sure it is not good for the doe. I said it was sweet for the buck. Ours are now in separate cages and the does are allowed together. Much easier to keep track and allow us to determine when to breed. It was sweet to see him but it is not a perfect thing to do.
I may use a colony system if we move properties, but my hutches work great: larger than any other cages I've seen, controls waste, and takes about 5 minutes of work a day.
This is a much better way of raising rabbits than cages. Certainly better for the rabbits but for you too because you have less daily work. All the data you mentioned is only important if you were selling meat/hides. Once other people have expectations of your products you have to have and keep records. Forget that noise! No records! From experience I say the aggression of ANY rabbit is from overcrowding in cage setups. Not only will bucks attack kits but does will attack one another. Meat breed rabbits were never meant to be in small commercial style cages.
Man I love this I built a 12x16 barn and have them all running around the male locked away but was planning to dig down and do this... as in Canada 🇨🇦 it's cold 🥶
When I was a kid, one of my friend's dad raised his rabbits for meat. Every once in a while he would get a rabbit in the colony that would become cannibalistic. It would first eat the ears of the other rabbits and then the babies if not removed. He would have to separate one adult out of the group and wait a few days to see if it stopped before putting it back and separating another until he found the rabbit doing it. He would destroy the rabbit but wouldn't eat it. He never told me why this happened or why he refused to eat it. I recall that happening to his colony several times as a kid he would have a rabbit that went crazy like this.
First time moms will often do it, especially if crowded. If she feels she cant keep it alive, or that it will likely die anyway, they abandon feeding it to get it to leave the nest on its own. They cant carry their young like a cat, and a dead baby in the nest threatens the entire nest. When they eat them, its likely because she found it dead IN the nest and thats the only way she can get it out of there. Now, if a baby is deformed in any way or stillborn, they eat them on the spot. Its a harsh reality with the focus on the majority of the babies at the expense of the individual. @@aaronpops4108
Eating an animal that ate others of its own species is always dangerous (think mad cow disease) since weird little parasites can grow and be passed on if you eat the neural tissue. (I’m assuming that’s why, also it would make the meat taste weird, I expect)
We raised our meat rabbits in a colony style pen. Would never do it another way. While any method has its own pros and cons, for us the colony was perfect.
You want to see the happiest, healthiest rabbits on planet Earth, come and visit our contented rabbit community. Caged rabbits are suffering in gulags.
Reading some of the lower comments about disease... listen to your land and your animals and your own biology. You will save more lives with observation and listening than you will with just noticing sickness 😷 and death. Notice life and what health looks like, and is. ^-^ win win .
Thank You for Paying it Forward. Winston Churchill died my Bull terrier. I started w 2 dwarf lionheads for fertilizer. What fun to breed n all the Bunny therapy❤ Not eating crickets, etc.. If starving as the world shuts off food, these awesome creatures also Pay it Forward. 🙏
Good video! Humane treatment of animals is, how God done it. Animals hashed out what's best for them over thousands of generations. Wild European rabbits create a colony, one doe and probably her sisters, and a buck. They thrive that way. It's so successful for them they can live here, southern Arizona, in underground colonies where above ground can mean heat losses when it jumps to over 95F. Weather swings can be as much as 50 degrees from night to afternoon with hot, dry winds. Underground is usually about 70F-75F year-round. Predators are common, from Mouser the rattler (one of dozens, keeps ground squirrel population low and wary but is slacking now because it's too cold--she moved into the garage). Cats and stray dogs that avoid hungry coyotes hawks, owls, and the roadrunners. Owls aren't really much of a problem thanks to ravens, but ravens have been known to carry off baby bunnies. But, ravens also keep snakes under control.
I been looking into animals mainly rabbits one thing I didn't like seeing a lot of individual cages. Like people saying it's humane but at the same time it looks so cramped almost like keeping a single chip in a sauce cup. They don't have room to run to explore have a good life till the end. I know it'll be little more expensive but this is definitely a route Im going to take
If you do this make sure you compact the soil very well after you make the under ground barrier or let it settle naturally. If you don’t you run the risk of your rabbits’ burrows collapsing on them and killing them.
I watched some pet channels, but there is no way I am keeping a rabbit inside my house. Meat channels seem to have more sensible advice. Like another commentor, I am also concerned about manure build-up. We have approximately 250 square foot available planned for an adult Flemish Giant (as a pet for our sheepdog). I plan to build (with help) a hobbit style hutch to provide protection from the elements, but wasn't sure what kind of flooring to use. Leaning towards the 14GA wire, with a removable tray underneath that, because I am worried about disease. From what I understand, the rabbits poop a lot while eating, so planning on having a metal hay tray attached to a wall, also with a 14GA wire + tray setup underneath. Do you think this is realistic / safe / sufficiently sanitary? Thanks!
There are two options with any type of livestock: 1) Constant rotation 2) Deep litter Anything else will either be a lot of work (e.g., constant cleaning) or not work to keep the area clean. We chose deep litter since we can't move the hutch easily. With rabbits, you could suspend them in a cage with a wire floor and have the poop fall through but that means keeping them in wire cages which isn't something we wanted to do. Also, their manure isn't limited to the feeding area. Some of our rabbits poop in a corner on the other side of the feeder. The young ones poop where ever they please :)
@kummerhomestead Thanks for the feedback. Will have to give it some careful thought to find a new solution then. From what I understand the Flemish Giants are not great diggers, so wanted to create a large-diameter cement tunnel system under the hobbit mound for predominantly for shelter. But don't want Rabbit to sit in his own waste (urine in particular), so wanted a raised porous floor of sorts inside the tunnel which would also allow for it to be hosed off with high pressure water cleaner. Building a habitat with hay, potted greens and raised potted rabbit-friendly flowers, so wasn't too concerned about occasional droppings in the rest of the enclosure, but will rethink that. Will do some research on deep litter then 👍🏻 Thanks for the help.
Glad your video popped up after one comparing each system, you explained the colony style the best! Also love how you dug down to install a wire barrier: smart! I will definitely be doing the same, once i knock off a bunch of other projects that are on the priority list, lol... In the meantime, I'm thinking about removing one wall in my minibarn/chicken coop and putting rabbits in, as my flock size is small enough that i can consolidate my birds into just one unit (the middle unit has been vacant for months already). I have had rabbits in there before (not mine, and only for a couple months) and they ate away at the walls and studs (open framing). This behaviour seemed to be reduced after providing lava blocks, but do you think lining the space with 2' chicken wire will help? Like, would that be tall enough (they won't climb over and get trapped in behind) or should i go taller/install horizontal blocking along the top? Also, is there something I can do to protect the plywood floor from damage? Like, I'm thinking i could probably do a 1" pour of concrete, but then if we ever decide to disassemble and relocate the building again in the future, the concrete would pose a bit of a problem. TIA!
I'd go taller. Our rabbits like to jump and I could see them getting trapped behind the wire. Also, if you offer them branches and sticks (from trees that aren't toxic for them), they'll likely stop chewing the framing. Regarding the flooring, we use a Whey-based coating from Vermont Natural Coatings that's not toxic to protect the flooring in our henhouse. You could use something similar in your rabbit hutch.
Water drainage is a possible issue with this. You'll also be doing more bent over work with waterers/tidying up. A well thought out hutch system is probably better in the wet north and colony in the dry south. Heat is the major issue issue in the south and colony solves this. Best setup I've seen was a rabbit hutch house built with a natural spring diverted through it in Arkansas ,block building with concrete floors sloped to a drain which the water ran through, natural cooling and droppings were just swept and hosed into the drain.
Well i have to say , i thought of making a colony..but there are issues that i will tell , hope others read and think about them. 1) space, if you dont have a huge amount of space , i suggest cages ,it has saved me ton of space and was relatively cheap spending around 120 euro for 5 large cages (3 breeding female, 2 large male pens) and 16 smaller cages (60x60) for grow outs, in that money is included the watering system i made and the feeders and "houses" for the females. 2) is timing , check where you live ,for example where i live ,you can not have litter in summer, its basically suicide and when i started and tried a colony set up, i lost a bunny due to the heat (can hit 40°C fairly easily) this also allows me to give the doughs enough time to rest from the kids usually 1 or more weeks of relaxation. 3) depending how comited you are ,the rabbits in cages will be far more docile and if you let them out to graze as i did (and you should let them "strech" every now and then both females and males) you will notice you have less of a hard time putting them back in, i even had one dough that actively pulled me to her litter especially if things got too warm or too cold ,in order to fix things. 4) diseases , now this is something that applies to regions , check what your area has as diseases, in my place rabbits and chickens share the same issues so if i had chickens get sick the rabbits would soon follow, being in cages meant that i basically already had a quarantine to keep them from getting things worse. 5) cleaning...this was probably the easiest job i did, grab a shovel every 1-2 weeks and fill 2-5 buckets of poo and straight to thr garden it went, surprisingly rabbit poo isnt that "hot" so it doesnt need to be composted for long time or at all depending on the feed. Keep in mind though NOT ALL RABBITS ARE MADE EQUALLY: a lot of meat rabbits can be in cages but not all of them are suited for such lifestyles, check their back legs, usually extremely thick rough fur is a good indicator that they will do ok in a cage set up..keep in mind that you have to feed them moderately feed, not moving means they can get fat easily ,so aside the growouts you should avoid giving protein dense feed to breeders and males , instead opt out for far more greens,grass and mineral/vitamin heavy feed
I appreciate your detailed response. 1) Rabbits need as much space as they need to be happy. And I'd argue the more animals you have in one enclosure, the less space you need per animal (within reason). 2) We're in Georgia and have very hot and humid summers but that doesn't appear to be an issue. However, better temperature control is one of the reasons why allow our rabbits to burrow. 3) I don't know if that's true. Our rabbits are all docile and having them in a colony doesn't prevent us from handling them. 4) If they live in a proper environment and get high-quality feed, their immune system should be strong enough to withstand most pathogens. You might some of the weak ones in the beginning but that's part of improving your breeding stock's resilience. 5) We spend 5 minutes each week adding pine shavings or wood chips and let nature take care of composting the waste. I don't think we'd be any more efficient by cleaning out cages. Cheers, Michael
@kummerhomestead xD I know I just said what people should think, at the end of the day it is what fits the place you live more. Random example, bunnies can't really borrow here, the clay like soil with the rock ..kinda hard to dog ,even for mice. But yeah keep the good work mate
My meat rabbits live in a barn with a concrete floor. Each of my does' has a separate box stall with a second tier and lots of space to move around. My pedigree buck moves between them as I need them pregnant. I love that they get to socialize and live together, but I have just had my first double pregnancy (first set born two weeks ago, second set arrived two weeks later). I wasn't aware this was possible and the internet is telling me it's not great for my doe's health. That said, both litters are healthy and thriving so if this happens naturally and other colony style set ups don't find this problematic then my preference is to continue. I started off in hutches, rotating my rabbits through the day into a playpen, but a semi-colony set up like what I have now is more playful and gives my rabbits better exercise and community.
From what I have learned, animals, which are generally herbivores, are more likely to eat other animals if they have a nutrient imbalance, such as a phosphorus deficiency (which makes the bones an appealing snack.) Baby animals take the head and become little vitamins for larger creatures.
This is such a good idea! My husband and I are thinking of raising meat rabbits. So, in the winter, if it gets in the negative degrees, the rabbits can just burrow down and be warmer?
Great question...I do have some pictures but I don't think we ever published anything. It's based on Joel Salatin's design. Let me see if we have enough footage to put together a Short.
Thank u, great vid! I live in Fl. Do u have any advice on controlling fleas/tics (diatomaceous earth, etc)? Also, I was curious how u would be able to walk in a colony w/out caving in their tunnels but I noticed they tend to tunnel near the perimeters so I guess it's not really an issue.
We don't have any flea or tick issues where we live. As far as the tunnels are concerned, they do often build around the perimeter and not in the center.
@@kummerhomestead i have seen several videos already, and i think rabbit is the way to go. Their diet consists of lots of wild abundantly growing plants all around. Plus i cut grass as a side hustle so at the same time i can always make a bundle to take home. But i really love your method of keeping them in a colony. Just like chicken, i prefer yard fowl over store bought bcoz they get exercise and eat a variety of bugs. Ppl complain the meat is tough but i absolutely do not find it to be tough at all, if anything its better tasting and more nutritious. If u make a wild edibles for rabbit i def will b looking out for it bcoz im sub.
There are so many things that can go wrong with keeping rabbits colony style and in my 51 years of breeding meat rabbits on a large scale and acting as a consultant for farms and individuals who are trying to get into raising rabbits or having difficulties with their existing herd, the most common call I get is from those who tried raising colony style and ended up with a disaster. Sometimes it's a disaster right from the start due to failure to properly plan and other times it's after years of success and suddenly, something goes wrong. The list of what goes wrong is lengthy and there's no need for me to go into that but let me tell you, when it does fail it's usually a complete loss and bloodlines going back decades are gone just like that. There are far more negatives than there are rewards. Nature can be cruel and the risks of having rabbits on the ground far outweigh any benefits. It's not a matter of if it will fail, it is when. My last encounter was with a couple that had over 300 rabbits die after having them in a colony for nearly 20 years. It worked and then it didn't. It was horrible. Every time, the statement is the same "xxx (insert name here) warned me, but I thought they would be happier this way....) People say they want to keep rabbits as they would live in the wild. While I completely agree that nature is best in many ways, unfortunately, it isn't always kind to animals. The truth is that very few wild animals actually die of old age, and most of them end up suffering in some way. For example, wild rabbits have to face a multitude of challenges like starvation, dehydration, attacks from predators in the air and on land, hepatic coccidia, spider bites, fly strike, and so much more. It's definitely not the way I would want my rabbits or any animals to live. It's important for us to remember that even though nature can be beautiful, it can also be harsh for animals. In exchange for its LIFE, we need to keep our animals safe and colony raising is not safe.
I'd argue that if you cannot raise animals comercially in an environment that mimics nature (like you can with grazing animals by applying management-intensive grazing principles), they shouldn't be raised at all (for the sake of the animals and human health). But that's our take on raising livestock and I realize that anyone who raises livestock conventionally disagrees. But to your point, I do agree that rabbits are difficult (if not impossible) to raise commercially in a colony set up. Our priority is to raise animals that provide optimal nutrition for us and conventional farming practices just don't cut it.
is there a certain name or type of new zealand or rather the name of the color type i guess for the tan ones with black ear tips and grey under coats? I got 2 bucks and 2 does all from various breeders and they're all supposedly new zealand (not papered, probably barnyard mutt mixes) and they all look different. I have a doe that looks like these tan ones with the dark accents, a typical black and white broken, an all black, and a "classic rabbit" i tend to call it lmao, chest nut or whatever, the usual grey/brown mix with white belly, all of which were sold as "new zealands". they all make beautiful babies tho
@@jetztisfeierabend I don't know that they're growing faster, but I'd argue that the more they use their muscles to move, the more flavorful their meat is. And I'd argue that more exercise equals better health (with everything else being equal -- just like with humans).
I wonder if it's possible to make the sides and bottom underground out of concrete, with the bottom being "thirsty" concrete. Then fill it all up with dirt. They'd be able to burrow but still can't escape.
Have you looked into any plants that you can keep in there to simulate nature, that they wouldn't destroy? I've been trying to look into that for my quail hutch (just received an order of a few plants in fact). I really want their lives to be as comfortable as I can make it, like how you seem to try for your rabbits.
Eating the litter is a mental health indicator. Recover the resources and try again later when the situation is better. If your rabbits don't feel the need to do that, then that means everything is fine or at least good enough. That is also why this happens more with caged rabbits. They are not as relaxed as yours. (Stress might increase with no fault of yours, if for example they get attacked by a predator. Caging eliminates these variables.) Caging is mostly only economical if your bottleneck is the area available. And that is simply not the case in your scenario. But in the industrial scope you can go cheaper by increasing density. As most of that infrastructure has mostly a flat cost. Similar with chickens if you are not constrained by square footage just letting them roam free is way easier. But if you store them on multi leveled shelves you can obviously squeeze in A LOT more.
Unfortunately, that way of farming (maximizing output) has led to the mess we're in right now. So we're supporting a decentralized, local food system :)
I love your set up. I tryed a colony setup but had health problems with the rabbits and the other does kept killing the others does kits and I tryed with two different groups it didn't work. So I do breed rabbits in cages but there cages are huge and they are gave alot of fruits and vegetables. I wanna try breeding in colony again any ideas cause I have problems with my other does killing the other bunnies. Kits.
I let my yard rabbit borrow and give birth underground in the yard. I finally decided to intervene because i smelled something dead for two days; mom wasn't "taking care of it". They ALL had filthy eyes, one had nest box eye so bad i wondered if it was gonna lose it (terramycin). I won't do that again. Maybe if it's a box that i made with a lid and i can check on them. I learned my lesson.
I appreciate your view, it sound like you have under 1 year with this setup? I see lots of colony set ups and i am not aware of any long term(10 year)colonies, but lots of 40+year cage breeders. How do you plan to handle the manure buildup over time, like 5 years down the road? How often will you need to dig up that 3ft deep tunnel system ? I believe you will find the reasons why so few rabbit colonies endure years of use. I dont think colonies are viable long term especially in my frigid winter area. Thanks for showing your setup i do enjoy getting new ideas from other people's experiences.
We handle manure in the same way we do in our henhouses: deep litter. In other words, we just keep adding carbon every week so it decomposes with the poop. We have no plan to dig up the tunnels. The rabbits close their tunnels after a litter and dig new ones. No need for us to intervene. Keep in mind that we're not breeders in the traditional sense. We're not selling rabbits or their meat. We're OK with "reduced" breeding performance in favor of providing a natural environment for the rabbits we consume.
Very nice video. Best one ive seen sofar. How do I exactly start? Just with two rabbits and use their children for meat untill the parents no longer breed. Then I buy new ones? Thank you in advance!
I love your idea. We just started with 2 and we're going to have them as parents. So you just eat the kits after weaning eventually or how do the parents not start breeding them?
We have a colony but I find the poop build up to be a problem. I provide deep litter but they just mix it in and so they are always in their poop, even heavily in their nests. Please tell me your thought on this.
@kummerhomestead I've tried two setups. One where I built a ground level between hutches which I opened up to the cages. We called it a condo because it gave them the option of their above ground hutches or down ramps to the ground. I had two does and one buck. They hung out most of the time in the upper level on the wire but built tunnels and had babies on the lower level. I had wire buried about 6" below ground and added 6" dirt on top then about 6-8" of wood chips. But after several months it was all mixed together with their poop. They made tunnels in this. I never found an easy way to remove the poop. So it just built up. I worried about long term effects of this. So I moved them. The lower ground level was about 3 feet deep by 6 feet wide. I added kindling totes they could get to from the lower level but they preferred their own tunnels.
@@BethOvertonCPMmidwife We buried hardware cloth about 3 feet down and covered it with dirt. On top of that, we have about 8 inches of wood chips, and we keep adding chips or pine shavings every week. We've been doing this since March and haven't noticed much of a build-up. Our hutch is 12x8 ft, and they regularly close old tunnels and build new ones ( I suspect to bury the old nesting site, which might be soiled). It sounds like you didn't have enough surface area to allow the manure to decompose. I think you'd have to give them a larger area or more vertical space to dump much more carbon.
Could you technically open the door and let them free range because they have already set up where their burrows and water is? Or would they just leave?
My neighbor has a 20ft x 20ft pen for his rabbits. His wife takes time everyday to go out and train the rabbits to only crap in 1 corner in sand. Pen stays clean.
Our first litter died and the rabbits pushed the dead babies up where we could get to them. They also close off the nest after each litter and dig a new hole for the next.
Very informative video. Glad colony worked out for you guys! Btw, the grey/black with "red" fur is not a NZ rabbit color. Those are cinnamon (came from a 4h kid breeding for the anomaly from Californians. One of my top does was a cinnamon). Since you have a picture of a young buck, I'm guessing both does are Cinnamons. If I didn't know the buck's breed, his big ears and head would suggest to me a possible cross of a "fawn" colored Flemish, but his conformation and color is still within what you could expect from a pure red NZ. The cinnamons are not NZ though. That color is only recognized on Cinnamons and Rexes (and given the lack of lighter coloring on the does that you see on the offspring, I'm guessing the Cinnamon does are pure or close to pure Cinnamon). Cinnamons are great rabbits (not terribly common, kudos to you), but good to know what you have if you want to look into them more.
Any livestock and feed can attract rodents but I don't know if colonies attract them more than individual cages. Also, our hutch is pretty well sealed off using half inch mesh wire. So nothing larger than a small mouse can get in.
Great system but be aware of mesh size as in uk stoats,weasels and even mink will climb up the aviary and access through small gaps and kill your rabbits,also rats will kill and eat young kits.
Unlimited pellets for rabbits just drains your money, a rabbit only needs like 1/2 of pellets a day, in addition to unlimited hay. You you want weight gain feed some grains
Could anyone advise on the possibility of using empty wild rabbit burrows for our own meat rabbits? Ive fenced around a third of an acre for chickens but thought about adding rabbits as there are so many burrows available.
the humane living conditions have to outweigh the incovenience--- even if burrowing wasnt allowed the community sure beats the hanging wire cage-- that just seems like a living hell. my freinds father an old italian mobster used to raise the rabbits, community-- males in one hutch females in teh other,,, that still beat the individual wire cage hanging in air in 0 degrees
I can't think of a postive reason for breeding in colonies. The risk of deisease and predation far outweighs cage life. Rabbits were raised for centuries in cages.
![Why We Broke Up Our Rabbit Colony [Lessons Learned and New Strategy]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hBRF12-dCGs/mqdefault.jpg)
![Why We Broke Up Our Rabbit Colony [Lessons Learned and New Strategy]](/img/tr.png)
![Raising Rabbits in Colonies [7 Myths Busted]](/img/n.gif)
When my family researched this 2 years ago we found you only need to dig down 2 feet, and that's true. We made a dome for our rabbits with 2 feet of wire fencing underground, and they freely live in there. Just for reference, if you don't cull them, they decide to stop breeding if there's not enough room. They actually know when to stop. We found with a 30ft diameter dome, with a 4x4 square entrance, that's a 40 rabbit limit that THEY place on themselves. 😂
What material did you use for your dome? This is especially interesting to me as I've recently build a sub-terrainian green house (walipini) that was pretty simple also.
@@mickeyrussell1665 we bought connectors for a dome-shaped pvc pipe greenhouse. I believe we used 2 inch pvc pipe. We did this during the time there were wood shortages soon after Covid hit, and the cost of wood skyrocketed past pvc pipe. We used wire fasteners to wrap wiring around the pvc, and the entrance is a cattle fence bent over for the top, and framed with wood, and wood frame door with mostly wire. In hindsight, we should have used hardware cloth, because the chicken wire is now rusting underground. Don't use chicken wire if you want it to last. You can also buy connectors for a dome-shape that is designed for wood 2x4s. I don't remember where we bought the connectors, but you can probably just Google it. Edit: BTW, we only put wire up 6 feet (a 4 ft wire, with 2 ft underground, 2 ft above, and then another 4 feet above that)...the top has a tarp over it to prevent torrential downpour of rain, we have it in a shaded area to keep them cool as well. The fencing is high enough to keep dogs and coyotes out (or uninterested), and the tarp makes it so the wingspan of a hawk or owl can't just swoop in and snatch dinner, so they've been really safe, and I always have an easy opening to dump grass, weeds and leftover greens from the kitchen in. It's worked really well. During spring, I have so many weeds to spare, and don't give them pellets. I've literally fed them nothing but weeds and grass for the last 2 months. 😂 I just have a weed pulling routine everyday, with a huge baggy container (sometimes I use a wheelbarrow).
Thank you
@jessalynncarnes5489 thank you for sharing
We are a few months shy of a complete little set-up for raising meat rabbits, and now after watching your very informative video... Colony it is!
Glad it was helpful!
My parents had such a colony setup, when I was a child. It worked great for a few years, but then the rabbits managed to dig down below the barriers at the side and escaped. The family dog helped to catch them all, but the setup had to be redone with an additional barrier below. Unfortunately, after that, the setup never worked again, the soil was not compact enough and the tunnels collapsed over the rabbits. So, that is something to get done correctly from the start. For my family that problem was the end of keeping rabbits, because there was no time to fix it and keeping them in separate cages did neither benefit the animals nor us.
This was great.
I have not 're-started' raising rabbits yet, but as a kid we hunted rabbits and I always thought it a bit strange to raise in cages for meat. Sort of like free range chickens... free range rabbits.
They lose meat if you free range them. They burn calories. It's a business.
@@DarraghQuinn-d8o trade offs .
I would rather eat wild meat than cows, chickens,rabbits fed purina chow in a bag.
I really like the rain barrel water system coupled with the redundant hose system. This level of attention to detail shows how much you really care for the wellbeing of your livestock. Well done.
Thanks, we appreciate the feedback!
I also find bucks to be the most friendly bunnies. Mine comes running when I come outside and he just 'melts' when I pet him. He's such a sweet boy. My females are generally more territorial and like their space/freedom more, don't love being held but do come around for pets on 'their terms', lol
Yeah, same here :)
Yep, reflects their lives in the wild. Once sexually mature, the bucks are driven from the colony and live more solitary lives, so they appreciate our attention. Does are rabbit-social creatures that groom each other and socialize. If you really want to bond with bucks, pet them on the forehead and rub the "sleepies" out of their eyes. They cant self groom the eyes well, so when we rub the crusties off everytime we interact with them, they really love it.
Cats are the same way, oddly.
I know which of my kits are boys because they are the ones who want to cuddle. My dogs and horses are the same way, the boys are the cuddlers.
Thank you for this! Was looking into getting some meat rabbits, but hated that the information on it was so reliant on the tiny cages, and it also seemed too work intensive for us, but I'm very glad to see an alternative. Love the idea with digging down so they can have room to burrow!
Glad it was helpful!
Really appreciate to not always see these "laying batteries" as rabbit boxes, but a nice and animal friendly environment. Thumbs up!
Thanks for watching!
My dad built a rabbit colony when i was little and we had plenty of meat from them. It was a really easy and low maintenance setup
Plus in colony, the rabbits are wonderful and happy. You get to see how rabbit society actually works. Watching a male hang out with his babies is awesome. Cons. Many many many many many babies , so many babies. No idea of age of the cull rabbit
We raise ours in a garage. No worries about them digging out. Plus all wire will corrode. Also no worries about babies being dead in. A burrow.
I would love your insights on double pregnancies? My one doe just had two litters about two weeks apart. I prefer my buck to have permanent company and he is so gentle with his babies (up to weaning age), but the internet says it is bad for my doe?
@user-pm7ck6ij9s im sure it is not good for the doe. I said it was sweet for the buck. Ours are now in separate cages and the does are allowed together. Much easier to keep track and allow us to determine when to breed. It was sweet to see him but it is not a perfect thing to do.
I may use a colony system if we move properties, but my hutches work great: larger than any other cages I've seen, controls waste, and takes about 5 minutes of work a day.
Amazing! Extremely humane way of raising meat.
We agree! 👍🏻
This is a much better way of raising rabbits than cages. Certainly better for the rabbits but for you too because you have less daily work. All the data you mentioned is only important if you were selling meat/hides. Once other people have expectations of your products you have to have and keep records. Forget that noise! No records! From experience I say the aggression of ANY rabbit is from overcrowding in cage setups. Not only will bucks attack kits but does will attack one another. Meat breed rabbits were never meant to be in small commercial style cages.
I started my colony about 5 years ago. Now all my neighbors have rabbits, too.
Right on!
Because they escaped, or because youre a trend setter?
Man I love this I built a 12x16 barn and have them all running around the male locked away but was planning to dig down and do this... as in Canada 🇨🇦 it's cold 🥶
Right on!
Nice! you can use hay bales and plywood to build them cheap structures for additional warmth and exercise while still being able to catch them.
When I was a kid, one of my friend's dad raised his rabbits for meat. Every once in a while he would get a rabbit in the colony that would become cannibalistic. It would first eat the ears of the other rabbits and then the babies if not removed. He would have to separate one adult out of the group and wait a few days to see if it stopped before putting it back and separating another until he found the rabbit doing it. He would destroy the rabbit but wouldn't eat it.
He never told me why this happened or why he refused to eat it. I recall that happening to his colony several times as a kid he would have a rabbit that went crazy like this.
We had a doe that ate one from her first litter and let the other babies die. She was actually a good mother after that.
First time moms will often do it, especially if crowded. If she feels she cant keep it alive, or that it will likely die anyway, they abandon feeding it to get it to leave the nest on its own. They cant carry their young like a cat, and a dead baby in the nest threatens the entire nest. When they eat them, its likely because she found it dead IN the nest and thats the only way she can get it out of there. Now, if a baby is deformed in any way or stillborn, they eat them on the spot. Its a harsh reality with the focus on the majority of the babies at the expense of the individual. @@aaronpops4108
Eating an animal that ate others of its own species is always dangerous (think mad cow disease) since weird little parasites can grow and be passed on if you eat the neural tissue. (I’m assuming that’s why, also it would make the meat taste weird, I expect)
happens more often in the wild with wild rabbits. They have to protect the nest.@@misstweetypie1
Thanks for the info… hopefully, I can start my own rabbit colony soon.😊
Best of luck!
We raised our meat rabbits in a colony style pen. Would never do it another way. While any method has its own pros and cons, for us the colony was perfect.
Same here!
You want to see the happiest, healthiest rabbits on planet Earth, come and visit our contented rabbit community. Caged rabbits are suffering in gulags.
What is a colony style pen?
Reading some of the lower comments about disease... listen to your land and your animals and your own biology. You will save more lives with observation and listening than you will with just noticing sickness 😷 and death. Notice life and what health looks like, and is. ^-^ win win .
Right on!
Funny , I never looked this up but I mentioned it to my hubby the other day. “Maybe I should raise rabbits “ Now here is a video 🤔
Thank You for Paying it Forward.
Winston Churchill died my Bull terrier. I started w 2 dwarf lionheads for fertilizer. What fun to breed n all the Bunny therapy❤ Not eating crickets, etc..
If starving as the world shuts off food, these awesome creatures also Pay it Forward. 🙏
Thank you for making this. It is exactly what I was looking for.
You're very welcome!
Your a hero in my eyes lol. Thanks for the knowledge. Congratulations on the success of your channel aswell.
Thanks! 🙏🏻
I love that they can make borrows. Do the tunnels collapse now and again?
Occasionally, an entrance crumbles but they’re also always closing off and digging new tunnels and so those tunnels are never around for very long :)
Nice video! I suggest 1.5+ gallon water bowls for colony rabbits. Rabbits will wet their paws in a bowl of water and groom with wet paws.
We actually have a separate bowl in the hutch that's automatically fed by a garden hose.
I’m going to use buckets for the rabbits to nest in. Hopefully will have my rabbit colony started within the next month
I like this type of set up. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Good video! Humane treatment of animals is, how God done it. Animals hashed out what's best for them over thousands of generations. Wild European rabbits create a colony, one doe and probably her sisters, and a buck. They thrive that way. It's so successful for them they can live here, southern Arizona, in underground colonies where above ground can mean heat losses when it jumps to over 95F. Weather swings can be as much as 50 degrees from night to afternoon with hot, dry winds. Underground is usually about 70F-75F year-round. Predators are common, from Mouser the rattler (one of dozens, keeps ground squirrel population low and wary but is slacking now because it's too cold--she moved into the garage). Cats and stray dogs that avoid hungry coyotes hawks, owls, and the roadrunners. Owls aren't really much of a problem thanks to ravens, but ravens have been known to carry off baby bunnies. But, ravens also keep snakes under control.
I been looking into animals mainly rabbits one thing I didn't like seeing a lot of individual cages. Like people saying it's humane but at the same time it looks so cramped almost like keeping a single chip in a sauce cup. They don't have room to run to explore have a good life till the end. I know it'll be little more expensive but this is definitely a route Im going to take
If you do this make sure you compact the soil very well after you make the under ground barrier or let it settle naturally. If you don’t you run the risk of your rabbits’ burrows collapsing on them and killing them.
I have tried both methods and I have found that cage method to be the best. I have tried set-up like yours and I did have success
Will you please provide the reason(s) behind your conclusion for cages being best?
I watched some pet channels, but there is no way I am keeping a rabbit inside my house. Meat channels seem to have more sensible advice.
Like another commentor, I am also concerned about manure build-up. We have approximately 250 square foot available planned for an adult Flemish Giant (as a pet for our sheepdog).
I plan to build (with help) a hobbit style hutch to provide protection from the elements, but wasn't sure what kind of flooring to use. Leaning towards the 14GA wire, with a removable tray underneath that, because I am worried about disease.
From what I understand, the rabbits poop a lot while eating, so planning on having a metal hay tray attached to a wall, also with a 14GA wire + tray setup underneath.
Do you think this is realistic / safe / sufficiently sanitary? Thanks!
There are two options with any type of livestock:
1) Constant rotation
2) Deep litter
Anything else will either be a lot of work (e.g., constant cleaning) or not work to keep the area clean. We chose deep litter since we can't move the hutch easily.
With rabbits, you could suspend them in a cage with a wire floor and have the poop fall through but that means keeping them in wire cages which isn't something we wanted to do. Also, their manure isn't limited to the feeding area. Some of our rabbits poop in a corner on the other side of the feeder. The young ones poop where ever they please :)
@kummerhomestead Thanks for the feedback. Will have to give it some careful thought to find a new solution then.
From what I understand the Flemish Giants are not great diggers, so wanted to create a large-diameter cement tunnel system under the hobbit mound for predominantly for shelter. But don't want Rabbit to sit in his own waste (urine in particular), so wanted a raised porous floor of sorts inside the tunnel which would also allow for it to be hosed off with high pressure water cleaner.
Building a habitat with hay, potted greens and raised potted rabbit-friendly flowers, so wasn't too concerned about occasional droppings in the rest of the enclosure, but will rethink that.
Will do some research on deep litter then 👍🏻 Thanks for the help.
@@defendingthestrawman7103You're most welcome!
Glad your video popped up after one comparing each system, you explained the colony style the best! Also love how you dug down to install a wire barrier: smart! I will definitely be doing the same, once i knock off a bunch of other projects that are on the priority list, lol... In the meantime, I'm thinking about removing one wall in my minibarn/chicken coop and putting rabbits in, as my flock size is small enough that i can consolidate my birds into just one unit (the middle unit has been vacant for months already). I have had rabbits in there before (not mine, and only for a couple months) and they ate away at the walls and studs (open framing). This behaviour seemed to be reduced after providing lava blocks, but do you think lining the space with 2' chicken wire will help? Like, would that be tall enough (they won't climb over and get trapped in behind) or should i go taller/install horizontal blocking along the top? Also, is there something I can do to protect the plywood floor from damage? Like, I'm thinking i could probably do a 1" pour of concrete, but then if we ever decide to disassemble and relocate the building again in the future, the concrete would pose a bit of a problem. TIA!
I'd go taller. Our rabbits like to jump and I could see them getting trapped behind the wire. Also, if you offer them branches and sticks (from trees that aren't toxic for them), they'll likely stop chewing the framing. Regarding the flooring, we use a Whey-based coating from Vermont Natural Coatings that's not toxic to protect the flooring in our henhouse. You could use something similar in your rabbit hutch.
@@kummerhomestead Thanks! I may skip the wire, then, and see if lots of lava blocks and sticks like you suggested are enough ;)
Water drainage is a possible issue with this. You'll also be doing more bent over work with waterers/tidying up. A well thought out hutch system is probably better in the wet north and colony in the dry south. Heat is the major issue issue in the south and colony solves this. Best setup I've seen was a rabbit hutch house built with a natural spring diverted through it in Arkansas ,block building with concrete floors sloped to a drain which the water ran through, natural cooling and droppings were just swept and hosed into the drain.
You mean this: ua-cam.com/video/jrtcnJCgFWQ/v-deo.html
Cool idea. Did you have to compact the ground under so there aren’t cave ins in their tunnels or no?
We just stepped on the dirt to compact it a bit but it all settled over time.
Well i have to say , i thought of making a colony..but there are issues that i will tell , hope others read and think about them.
1) space, if you dont have a huge amount of space , i suggest cages ,it has saved me ton of space and was relatively cheap spending around 120 euro for 5 large cages (3 breeding female, 2 large male pens) and 16 smaller cages (60x60) for grow outs, in that money is included the watering system i made and the feeders and "houses" for the females.
2) is timing , check where you live ,for example where i live ,you can not have litter in summer, its basically suicide and when i started and tried a colony set up, i lost a bunny due to the heat (can hit 40°C fairly easily) this also allows me to give the doughs enough time to rest from the kids usually 1 or more weeks of relaxation.
3) depending how comited you are ,the rabbits in cages will be far more docile and if you let them out to graze as i did (and you should let them "strech" every now and then both females and males) you will notice you have less of a hard time putting them back in, i even had one dough that actively pulled me to her litter especially if things got too warm or too cold ,in order to fix things.
4) diseases , now this is something that applies to regions , check what your area has as diseases, in my place rabbits and chickens share the same issues so if i had chickens get sick the rabbits would soon follow, being in cages meant that i basically already had a quarantine to keep them from getting things worse.
5) cleaning...this was probably the easiest job i did, grab a shovel every 1-2 weeks and fill 2-5 buckets of poo and straight to thr garden it went, surprisingly rabbit poo isnt that "hot" so it doesnt need to be composted for long time or at all depending on the feed.
Keep in mind though NOT ALL RABBITS ARE MADE EQUALLY: a lot of meat rabbits can be in cages but not all of them are suited for such lifestyles, check their back legs, usually extremely thick rough fur is a good indicator that they will do ok in a cage set up..keep in mind that you have to feed them moderately feed, not moving means they can get fat easily ,so aside the growouts you should avoid giving protein dense feed to breeders and males , instead opt out for far more greens,grass and mineral/vitamin heavy feed
I appreciate your detailed response.
1) Rabbits need as much space as they need to be happy. And I'd argue the more animals you have in one enclosure, the less space you need per animal (within reason).
2) We're in Georgia and have very hot and humid summers but that doesn't appear to be an issue. However, better temperature control is one of the reasons why allow our rabbits to burrow.
3) I don't know if that's true. Our rabbits are all docile and having them in a colony doesn't prevent us from handling them.
4) If they live in a proper environment and get high-quality feed, their immune system should be strong enough to withstand most pathogens. You might some of the weak ones in the beginning but that's part of improving your breeding stock's resilience.
5) We spend 5 minutes each week adding pine shavings or wood chips and let nature take care of composting the waste. I don't think we'd be any more efficient by cleaning out cages.
Cheers,
Michael
@kummerhomestead xD I know I just said what people should think, at the end of the day it is what fits the place you live more. Random example, bunnies can't really borrow here, the clay like soil with the rock ..kinda hard to dog ,even for mice. But yeah keep the good work mate
I love raising rabbits in colony, especially out there with nature, they're more healthy and happy.
Right on!
My meat rabbits live in a barn with a concrete floor. Each of my does' has a separate box stall with a second tier and lots of space to move around. My pedigree buck moves between them as I need them pregnant. I love that they get to socialize and live together, but I have just had my first double pregnancy (first set born two weeks ago, second set arrived two weeks later). I wasn't aware this was possible and the internet is telling me it's not great for my doe's health. That said, both litters are healthy and thriving so if this happens naturally and other colony style set ups don't find this problematic then my preference is to continue. I started off in hutches, rotating my rabbits through the day into a playpen, but a semi-colony set up like what I have now is more playful and gives my rabbits better exercise and community.
Sounds like you have a great setup!
From what I have learned, animals, which are generally herbivores, are more likely to eat other animals if they have a nutrient imbalance, such as a phosphorus deficiency (which makes the bones an appealing snack.) Baby animals take the head and become little vitamins for larger creatures.
This is such a good idea! My husband and I are thinking of raising meat rabbits. So, in the winter, if it gets in the negative degrees, the rabbits can just burrow down and be warmer?
Correct! They just go underground to stay warm when it's freezing above.
I was wanting to do a concrete footer/stem wall style. About 3 feet deep, and leave the center as you did, with dirt? Thoughts?
Sounds like a reasonable approach!
any good recipes ?
Great vid. Any footage of how you built your bunny tractor?
Great question...I do have some pictures but I don't think we ever published anything. It's based on Joel Salatin's design. Let me see if we have enough footage to put together a Short.
Thank u, great vid! I live in Fl. Do u have any advice on controlling fleas/tics (diatomaceous earth, etc)? Also, I was curious how u would be able to walk in a colony w/out caving in their tunnels but I noticed they tend to tunnel near the perimeters so I guess it's not really an issue.
We don't have any flea or tick issues where we live. As far as the tunnels are concerned, they do often build around the perimeter and not in the center.
I love your set up. Only one question.....how about any aggression or fighting?
Never experienced it.
This is what I know how to keep rabbits .
What kind of wire do you’ll use on the bottom
3x2 inch hardware cloth!
❤Hi brother tanks for this video Teachings, intarasting
well thx for sharing ,i always wonder how it will work as a colony ,thx a lot!
No problem 👍
Did you make a video of what wild vegetation you feed your rabbits? Love this style of keeping them.
No, we haven't yet but that's a great idea!
@@kummerhomestead i have seen several videos already, and i think rabbit is the way to go. Their diet consists of lots of wild abundantly growing plants all around. Plus i cut grass as a side hustle so at the same time i can always make a bundle to take home. But i really love your method of keeping them in a colony. Just like chicken, i prefer yard fowl over store bought bcoz they get exercise and eat a variety of bugs. Ppl complain the meat is tough but i absolutely do not find it to be tough at all, if anything its better tasting and more nutritious. If u make a wild edibles for rabbit i def will b looking out for it bcoz im sub.
@@kummerhomestead
ua-cam.com/video/QmS3Ilhko2Y/v-deo.htmlsi=iK7Z5X2NeafT3AyX
@@kummerhomestead
ua-cam.com/video/XOasMHlxC_E/v-deo.htmlsi=7-g2HhfMNAtwmucC
@@kummerhomestead
These 3 are very interesting
ua-cam.com/video/5L4Yn4tiF5s/v-deo.htmlsi=vHgRIOqv_ZhCx9yK
Very informative. Thank you very much
Glad it was helpful!
There are so many things that can go wrong with keeping rabbits colony style and in my 51 years of breeding meat rabbits on a large scale and acting as a consultant for farms and individuals who are trying to get into raising rabbits or having difficulties with their existing herd, the most common call I get is from those who tried raising colony style and ended up with a disaster.
Sometimes it's a disaster right from the start due to failure to properly plan and other times it's after years of success and suddenly, something goes wrong. The list of what goes wrong is lengthy and there's no need for me to go into that but let me tell you, when it does fail it's usually a complete loss and bloodlines going back decades are gone just like that.
There are far more negatives than there are rewards. Nature can be cruel and the risks of having rabbits on the ground far outweigh any benefits. It's not a matter of if it will fail, it is when. My last encounter was with a couple that had over 300 rabbits die after having them in a colony for nearly 20 years. It worked and then it didn't. It was horrible. Every time, the statement is the same "xxx (insert name here) warned me, but I thought they would be happier this way....)
People say they want to keep rabbits as they would live in the wild.
While I completely agree that nature is best in many ways, unfortunately, it isn't always kind to animals. The truth is that very few wild animals actually die of old age, and most of them end up suffering in some way.
For example, wild rabbits have to face a multitude of challenges like starvation, dehydration, attacks from predators in the air and on land, hepatic coccidia, spider bites, fly strike, and so much more. It's definitely not the way I would want my rabbits or any animals to live.
It's important for us to remember that even though nature can be beautiful, it can also be harsh for animals. In exchange for its LIFE, we need to keep our animals safe and colony raising is not safe.
I'd argue that if you cannot raise animals comercially in an environment that mimics nature (like you can with grazing animals by applying management-intensive grazing principles), they shouldn't be raised at all (for the sake of the animals and human health). But that's our take on raising livestock and I realize that anyone who raises livestock conventionally disagrees.
But to your point, I do agree that rabbits are difficult (if not impossible) to raise commercially in a colony set up. Our priority is to raise animals that provide optimal nutrition for us and conventional farming practices just don't cut it.
Do you have any good books you would recommend on raising rabbits in colonies ???
I recommend Raising Meat Rabbits in a Colony by Dana Thompson.
is there a certain name or type of new zealand or rather the name of the color type i guess for the tan ones with black ear tips and grey under coats? I got 2 bucks and 2 does all from various breeders and they're all supposedly new zealand (not papered, probably barnyard mutt mixes) and they all look different. I have a doe that looks like these tan ones with the dark accents, a typical black and white broken, an all black, and a "classic rabbit" i tend to call it lmao, chest nut or whatever, the usual grey/brown mix with white belly, all of which were sold as "new zealands". they all make beautiful babies tho
Rabbits are happier in colony than cages
Right on!
Definitely ❤
Of course. It is natural.
Ok sure, but the question is, for an economical thinking human, are they also growing faster and healthier if they are happy?
@@jetztisfeierabend I don't know that they're growing faster, but I'd argue that the more they use their muscles to move, the more flavorful their meat is. And I'd argue that more exercise equals better health (with everything else being equal -- just like with humans).
I wonder if it's possible to make the sides and bottom underground out of concrete, with the bottom being "thirsty" concrete. Then fill it all up with dirt. They'd be able to burrow but still can't escape.
I'm sure that would work. We just laid down mesh wire because it was easier and quicker.
That's what i am planning to do...
Thank you for your video
You are welcome!
Have you looked into any plants that you can keep in there to simulate nature, that they wouldn't destroy? I've been trying to look into that for my quail hutch (just received an order of a few plants in fact). I really want their lives to be as comfortable as I can make it, like how you seem to try for your rabbits.
Not yet because I think they’d just trample them, even the ones they don’t eat.
thank you for tis video!
You're so welcome!
Eating the litter is a mental health indicator.
Recover the resources and try again later when the situation is better.
If your rabbits don't feel the need to do that, then that means everything is fine or at least good enough.
That is also why this happens more with caged rabbits. They are not as relaxed as yours. (Stress might increase with no fault of yours, if for example they get attacked by a predator. Caging eliminates these variables.)
Caging is mostly only economical if your bottleneck is the area available. And that is simply not the case in your scenario.
But in the industrial scope you can go cheaper by increasing density. As most of that infrastructure has mostly a flat cost.
Similar with chickens if you are not constrained by square footage just letting them roam free is way easier. But if you store them on multi leveled shelves you can obviously squeeze in A LOT more.
Unfortunately, that way of farming (maximizing output) has led to the mess we're in right now. So we're supporting a decentralized, local food system :)
did you free feed the colony when you had it?
Yes, we always feed them freely and don't ration out the feed.
I love your set up. I tryed a colony setup but had health problems with the rabbits and the other does kept killing the others does kits and I tryed with two different groups it didn't work. So I do breed rabbits in cages but there cages are huge and they are gave alot of fruits and vegetables. I wanna try breeding in colony again any ideas cause I have problems with my other does killing the other bunnies. Kits.
Maybe try out the setup we're using now: ua-cam.com/video/hBRF12-dCGs/v-deo.html&lc=UgwgW3NFE4DVsAMqtoV4AaABAg
I let my yard rabbit borrow and give birth underground in the yard. I finally decided to intervene because i smelled something dead for two days; mom wasn't "taking care of it". They ALL had filthy eyes, one had nest box eye so bad i wondered if it was gonna lose it (terramycin). I won't do that again. Maybe if it's a box that i made with a lid and i can check on them. I learned my lesson.
You do know that rabbits are born with closed eyes, right? How old were they when you discovered their "filthy" eyes?
What method do people use to dispatch their rabits for cleaning and food prep? Is it as simple as a pellet gun? Or is there a better method out there?
We use cervical dislocation + bleeding. Stay tuned for an upcoming video on the subject.
I appreciate your view, it sound like you have under 1 year with this setup? I see lots of colony set ups and i am not aware of any long term(10 year)colonies, but lots of 40+year cage breeders. How do you plan to handle the manure buildup over time, like 5 years down the road? How often will you need to dig up that 3ft deep tunnel system ? I believe you will find the reasons why so few rabbit colonies endure years of use. I dont think colonies are viable long term especially in my frigid winter area. Thanks for showing your setup i do enjoy getting new ideas from other people's experiences.
My colony is 15 years of success.
We handle manure in the same way we do in our henhouses: deep litter. In other words, we just keep adding carbon every week so it decomposes with the poop. We have no plan to dig up the tunnels. The rabbits close their tunnels after a litter and dig new ones. No need for us to intervene.
Keep in mind that we're not breeders in the traditional sense. We're not selling rabbits or their meat. We're OK with "reduced" breeding performance in favor of providing a natural environment for the rabbits we consume.
Merci from Montreal Canada.
Welcome!
Very nice video. Best one ive seen sofar. How do I exactly start? Just with two rabbits and use their children for meat untill the parents no longer breed. Then I buy new ones? Thank you in advance!
We started with a trio, including one buck and two does.
@@kummerhomestead Thank you, maybe you already said it in your video but I forgot.
I love your idea. We just started with 2 and we're going to have them as parents. So you just eat the kits after weaning eventually or how do the parents not start breeding them?
@@chancemagoo7470 The kits haven't reached sexual maturity by the time we move them out of the hutch and into mobile rabbit tractors.
@@chancemagoo7470 Yeah, we usually dispatch the kits before they reach sexual maturity.
how / when /which do you harvest
We move the grow outs into a rabbit tractor at around 10 weeks and harvest them when they’re 4-4.5 pounds.
@@kummerhomestead..do you have any vids on working their pelts?
@@singingwindrider9881 Nope, because they're still in the freezer :)
We have a colony but I find the poop build up to be a problem. I provide deep litter but they just mix it in and so they are always in their poop, even heavily in their nests. Please tell me your thought on this.
How deep is your deep litter? It sounds like you need to add more carbon (wood chips, shavings...).
@kummerhomestead I've tried two setups. One where I built a ground level between hutches which I opened up to the cages. We called it a condo because it gave them the option of their above ground hutches or down ramps to the ground. I had two does and one buck. They hung out most of the time in the upper level on the wire but built tunnels and had babies on the lower level. I had wire buried about 6" below ground and added 6" dirt on top then about 6-8" of wood chips. But after several months it was all mixed together with their poop. They made tunnels in this. I never found an easy way to remove the poop. So it just built up. I worried about long term effects of this. So I moved them. The lower ground level was about 3 feet deep by 6 feet wide. I added kindling totes they could get to from the lower level but they preferred their own tunnels.
@@BethOvertonCPMmidwife We buried hardware cloth about 3 feet down and covered it with dirt. On top of that, we have about 8 inches of wood chips, and we keep adding chips or pine shavings every week. We've been doing this since March and haven't noticed much of a build-up. Our hutch is 12x8 ft, and they regularly close old tunnels and build new ones ( I suspect to bury the old nesting site, which might be soiled). It sounds like you didn't have enough surface area to allow the manure to decompose. I think you'd have to give them a larger area or more vertical space to dump much more carbon.
@kummerhomestead thank you for your insight. I'm not sure how much more space I can get with my set up but I will give it consideration.
Could you technically open the door and let them free range because they have already set up where their burrows and water is? Or would they just leave?
Good question...I wouldn't be surprised if they'd move on after a while to find a new home. Plus there is the risk of aerial predators.
My neighbor has a 20ft x 20ft pen for his rabbits. His wife takes time everyday to go out and train the rabbits to only crap in 1 corner in sand. Pen stays clean.
Most of our adults poop in one area...but the little ones poop everywhere.
What happens if a baby dies underground? Do the adults bring out the body?
It will attract snakes. The rabbits will stop reproducing
@@ofmanyone do you have to dig up the whole thing to find the dead one?
Our first litter died and the rabbits pushed the dead babies up where we could get to them. They also close off the nest after each litter and dig a new hole for the next.
No, we have never done that.
What is the minimum area of colony rabbit
He said 10 sq.ft. per buck and 20 sq.ft. per doe (which includes kits). He has separate tractors for the grow outs he moves around his yard.
Doesn't the female drive away or kill the male rabbit once they are pregnant?
How do you process and store the rabbits for meat?
Mites!
What about em?
What do you do in case of rats? I have a colony and rats ate 3 of my litters. How do I prevent this in the future.
You can use smaller mesh wire to prevent rats from getting into the hutch or get a barn cat :)
They eat what they find in the yard, all my rabbits share a cup of pellets, they dig holes and stuff.
Do they not dig deeper than the 3ft mark?
I would thought they would dig beyond and get out.
They can't because there is mesh wire down there.
What state are you in? My interest is in pest control (fire ants).
Im in GA.
We're in Milton, GA and haven't had any pest issues yet.
Where can I buy rabbits?
We used Google and IG to look for nearby breeders.
Craigslist works too!
Awesome
Great!
I wonder a bit what happens if one of the Baby bunnys dies. Because you are not able to dig everything up...
What will happen to the corpse?
The adults usually clean up the nest and either push dead kits out (to the surface) or they close the tunnel and dig a new one.
Very informative video. Glad colony worked out for you guys!
Btw, the grey/black with "red" fur is not a NZ rabbit color. Those are cinnamon (came from a 4h kid breeding for the anomaly from Californians. One of my top does was a cinnamon). Since you have a picture of a young buck, I'm guessing both does are Cinnamons.
If I didn't know the buck's breed, his big ears and head would suggest to me a possible cross of a "fawn" colored Flemish, but his conformation and color is still within what you could expect from a pure red NZ. The cinnamons are not NZ though. That color is only recognized on Cinnamons and Rexes (and given the lack of lighter coloring on the does that you see on the offspring, I'm guessing the Cinnamon does are pure or close to pure Cinnamon).
Cinnamons are great rabbits (not terribly common, kudos to you), but good to know what you have if you want to look into them more.
Thanks for sharing! They were sold to us as NZ (probably by someone who didn't know either). We just added some white NZ to dilute the genetic pool :)
I have a question. Does this method attract unwanted rodents that could introduce diseases?
Any livestock and feed can attract rodents but I don't know if colonies attract them more than individual cages. Also, our hutch is pretty well sealed off using half inch mesh wire. So nothing larger than a small mouse can get in.
Why do you have the ENTIRE feeder inside the pen instead of inserting only the tray portion through an opening in the wire?
Setup like this, inserting through a hole in fence is an invitation to disaster. Predators will use it as a door. And then you've lost em all.
Helps the feed stay dry and prevents anything from getting in.
wouldnt the tougher meat , being a more developed firmer muscle technically be more nutritious?
It's definitely more flavorful. Not sure if it's nutritionally superior if the diet is the same.
Great system but be aware of mesh size as in uk stoats,weasels and even mink will climb up the aviary and access through small gaps and kill your rabbits,also rats will kill and eat young kits.
Good point but we sealed everything off well. There are no gaps anywhere, including under the roof line.
Do rabbits suffer from Clusi virus (is it correct name?) & does it cross infection to human?
Never came across a virus by that name.
agri scientist in Australia discovered this virus in rabbits@@kummerhomestead
What about rodents moving into those underground passages?
Never had that happen yet but it's a possibility.
I built a shed for rabbit they have room the run
Right on!
I have 20 n I grew banana n bamboo trees the love n it's free.
How do you deal with Male rabbits fighting
We never had any fighting among our rabbits.
How it should be, wire bottom cages are stupid, rabbits can’t even do rabbit stuff in em
Wait animals like living in colonies with others vs solo in cages? Shocking
It's shocking to some :)
Unlimited pellets for rabbits just drains your money, a rabbit only needs like 1/2 of pellets a day, in addition to unlimited hay. You you want weight gain feed some grains
They only eat what they need (which is mostly hay).
@@kummerhomestead, uuhhh idk where u heard that, but rabbits definitely will eat way more pellets than they need lol.
@@Specogecko I heard that from our rabbits. When there is hay, they barely touch the pellets.
@@kummerhomestead strange
Could anyone advise on the possibility of using empty wild rabbit burrows for our own meat rabbits? Ive fenced around a third of an acre for chickens but thought about adding rabbits as there are so many burrows available.
I'd be afraid of the rabbits digging out or being picked off by predators.
the humane living conditions have to outweigh the incovenience--- even if burrowing wasnt allowed the community sure beats the hanging wire cage-- that just seems like a living hell. my freinds father an old italian mobster used to raise the rabbits, community-- males in one hutch females in teh other,,, that still beat the individual wire cage hanging in air in 0 degrees
How about insect pests and parasites in the tunnels, which you can’t clean? I must say, your rabbits look beautiful and happy! Thank you
Impossible to tell but I know that our rabbits close the tunnels to dig new ones frequently. I suppose that's their way of controlling pests.
I can't think of a postive reason for breeding in colonies. The risk of deisease and predation far outweighs cage life. Rabbits were raised for centuries in cages.
Have you heard of the concept of animal welfare? It’s the same thing that makes us raise chickens on pasture instead of cages.
Um probably going to eventually dig under that
I doubt they'll dig through the mesh wire we buried three feet deep.
If you try to raise meat rabbits in a colony, you will have skinny kids. It just does not work.
Ours dressed out just fine so far.