Episode 15 - Oil Change 2016 Transit Connect
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- Опубліковано 30 жов 2021
- Welcome! In this video follow me as I do a oil and oil filter change on my wife's 2016 Ford Transit Connect van. This van uses the durable but boring Duratech 2.5L engine, so the steps taken in this video will apply to any recentish Ford that doesn't need to move a bunch of weight (Ecosport, Escape, Transit Connect, etc).
One small correction. At the end of the video, to reset the oil change meter, press one foot on the brake and the other on the accelerator. I said accelerator and gas in video...oops.
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/ mazdab3k - Авто та транспорт
Thanks for making this video, definitely helps me to change my own oil. Question though - what do you do with the old oil? Any way to dispose it afterwards?
Most of your local auto parts stores should accept used oil, as long as its not contaminated with gas or coolant. If the oil you drained is contaminated, try taking it to your local Take5 or equivalent. They normally have the correct type of holding tanks for contaminated fluids and actually pay the right disposal companies to come get it.
What happens if you overfill it with oil? Too much pressure in the system? Bc at my last oil change at Ford they way overfilled it. I have just been driving around that way now bc I figure they gotta know what they're doing.
If you overfill with oil you run the risk of cavitation, meaning the rotating central assembly (crankshaft, piston rods) is hitting oil sitting in the oil pan. This causes bubbles and foamy oil, which in turn lowers the amount of protection the oil gives the moving parts of the engine.
Hi, do you think 10W-30 is better than the OEM suggested 5W-20? I live in hot southern weather. Benefits? Thanks
10W-30 is a good all around oil that works in my climates in the US. If you are in the south 10W-30 would work just fine from a temperature perspective. It is a slightly thicker oil so in theory your fuel economy will go down. Slightly. Probably so slightly it will be hard to notice. The honest truth is as long as you use an oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications and change said oil within the manufacturer's oil change interval (OCI), the engine should have a long and healthy life. In my case for simplicity's sake I use 15w-40 diesel oil for everything I have and it works fine. My one exception to this would be if you have a very new engine, particularly if it's a small turbo engine. Those engines have tighter tolerances than older ones and you should use the exact oils specified by the manufacturer.
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Glad I was able to help
Quick question about the oil change. I have heard people say that you should change the oil every 5k miles or 6 mths (whatever comes first). If I only drive 2k miles in 6 mths, why would I need to service it? Apparently sludge builds up in the engine.
So... for some reason people can get really passionate about engine oil, so I'm going to offer my opinion and leave it at that. If you want to geek out on engine oil tech, swing by bobistheoilguy.com.
Opinion: The reason why you still hear things like 3000 miles or 6 months is due to:
1. Oil in the past was vastly inferior to engine oil today.
2. Oil companies want to sell oil
The truth as I have found it is that due to higher demands from modern engines, engine oils have gotten much better at shear resistance and have much better additive packages than in the past. An oil that meets modern oil specs can easily go 7500k miles per oil change interval (OCI) in most driving conditions. That being said, follow what the manufacturer of your vehicle says as long as they hold a warranty on it. After that, it's down to what you are comfortable with.
Another thing to note is that unused engine oil really doesn't go bad as long as it's stored in a proper container and not contaminated by other materials. If you've a jug of oil that's a year or two old but still clean, new oil, it's fine.
However, oil in your car is a different case. Even if you don't drive the full OCI your manufacturer states, it's good to change it out at least once a year. Oil in your engine block picks up contaminates from the block and the traces of water that wind up in oil from the combustion process. If a engine doesn't get a chance to cook the water out of the oil from a long drive, that accelerates the wear on the oil which in turn leads to the need for a shorter change interval.
Sludge begins to occur when the oil degrades greatly and instead of flowing starts depositing itself in various places. Sludge is bad. Friends don't let friends sludge their engines.
The above is a very long winded answer to your question. In the end, the OCI you choose depends on the miles you drive, what kind of miles they are (traffic, short trip, long trip, flat grade, hilly, etc) and by what filter you are using. Not all filters are made the same, and I find that most of the time your OCI gets limited by the filter before the oil itself these days.
I hope that answers your question.
@@MazdaB3K "Friends don't let friends sludge their engines" lol. Well said. I saw some people on YT who change their oils like maniacs. But what you are referring to when it comes to the quality of modern oils makes sense. I'll look it up what exactly I was referring to with that transmission flush.
Have you ever had issues with the brake fluid on this vehicle? I was up on a mountain recently and the warning sign came on that the brake fluid was low. Sure enough there was zero brake fluid left. I filled it up and an hour later it was mostly gone again. The brake pedal itself felt fine and not spongy. The mechanic told me to get new brake pads and said the oil goes into a chamber by the brake calipers. He saw now leaking by the tires. But how could all this brake fluid be gone if I had to refill it back up? I'm so confused.
If you are losing fluid, you have a leak in the system, somewhere. If you see fluid dribbling down a tire, that means you most likely have a leaking caliper seal or brake line seal at the caliper. I'm not familiar with any braking system that uses oil in a tank near the wheels. The master brake cylinder has a fill located top and middle of the engine bay. The fill tank in turn goes to the full tank which is located near the firewall.
Now, if you are not leaking fluid what your mechanic said can be true. As brake pads wear down, the pistons in the calipers have to push further to give you braking force. This requires more brake fluid so more fluid winds up resting in the caliper over time, which causes the level of fluid to drop in the master cylinder tank without a leak. New brake pads are much thicker than the worn out ones so less fluid is required to fill the system.
However, you mentioned seeing brake fluid dribbling down a tire, so that tells me you have a leak. I would remove the tire and have someone pump the brakes hard while you watch the brake caliper. See where fluid dribbles out, if any. That will tell you what part needs replacing.
Finally, to answer your question, I've had zero brake issues with my van. I replaced the rotors and pads at 100k and topped off the brake fluid as the pads wore down, but that's it. Let me know if you have more questions.
@@MazdaB3K Thank you for this extremely detailed response. To be clear, I did not have any brake fluid dribble out near the tire. He took the tires off and checked, but I did not see him check anything else. The brakes were at about 20% he said. What confuses me is the fact that there was no visible brake fluid in the container and when refilling it also ran down the lines first. Where would the sensor be that alerted me that the brake fluid is low? Bc it wouldn't stop turning on, so I had to pull over and check. Btw, this is a fantastic channel you have.
I've never tracked down that particular sensor, but my thought would be it would be in the lower brake fluid tank near the firewall. In non-van Fords there is a float sensor that sits in the master brake cylinder tank. When the sensor touches the bottom of the tank, you get a brake light on the dash. I imagine a more fancy form of that is located in the tank near the firewall.
If your mechanic didn't see fluid, that's great! Most likely the case your mechanic presented is true. As long as you replaced the pads and your rotors still have good thickness on them, you should be good to go for a very long time.
You never felt a spongy pedal because the fluid level in the system stayed above the level of the brake master cylinder so air never got into the brake lines proper, which is a very good thing. It can be a PITA to get air out of lines sometimes.
Thank you for the comment on the channel. It's been two years of me recording all the random car things I do. If the channel helps you to get your car stuff done or bring value to you, consider subscribing and setting up notifications. Helping folks to save money and providing guidance to weird problems that come up is what this channel is all about.
@@MazdaB3K The brake master cylinder is the tank I woul fill the brake fluid into? Otherwise I'll just check online. Bc that tank was completely empty. Kind of a weird experience being on top of a mountain and having no visible brake fluid left. The warning sign just wouldn't stop coming on. I'm already subscribed btw. Truth is that I was looking for new cars, but they are just so expensive. So I need to take better care of what I have. A Toyota is another vehicle I have that leaks oil and seems to burn that oil as well. I always refill new oil. I'll check through your channel. A lot of useful stuff.
When you open the hood and look at the engine bay, there is a small tank with a fill cap. It's mounted with two screws to the top of the engine bay. If you look at the back of that tank, it has a tube that goes down and further back towards the firewall. Trace that tube and there will be the main tank near the firewall. The cap should have instructions on it that say use DOT 4 brake fluid. The sun is down in my part of the world, but I can take a picture tomorrow.
For the leaky seals on your Toyota you can attempt to replace or you can band-aid with a product like ATP AT-205. AT-205 will condition the seals and make them fuller again, sealing up minor oil leaks. If you are burning oil it could be the oil control rings on the pistons are getting worn out. Not too much you can do about that short of a ring job, but there are a few products you can try. Engine RESTORE does work and can help a bit with compression and burning oil, but it won't fix everything. I also seem to remember another youtuber who did experiments I think with Berryman's B12 to attempt to stop oil consumption by his Toyota engine. B12 is a solid product, but again, your miles may vary.