Holy old school Josh. I have two portal rigs and going to build a straight axle rig and thought why not I'll watch some really old Josh videos. 👍. Oddly enough there still helpful And informative. Your video stand the test of time Good job Josh. 😁
Harley, thank you for your awesome videos. I just got done building all my own links and installing all the parts. If any of you are first time moders like me for RC this is a good and fun place to start. As Harley says, if you have a dremel ,dye/tap and a handle/clamp you should be alright :). I plan on doing the winch mod next. P.S the screw loose hardware he recommends has pretty fast shipping. Thanks again harley.
Hope you had a Merry Christmas Harley! I realize this is a 3 year old video.... I just found it, and am so happy that the "Lowly" Deadbolt is getting some Love!! 😱😎😀 I'm going to go through this series, as the Deadbolt is likely the ONLY Axial I'll be able to afford. I figured that there's some SCX10 under there, and should be fairly capable. I just hope that most of the parts you're using, are STILL available. (RC mfgrs don't seem to like keeping things available, for those of us who take a *long* time to gather enough money to be able to GET these awesome parts) Anyway, I look forward to a great series! Carmine 🚂
Hey, don't know if youre still working on this but I'm in the same boat as you. Bought a used deadbolt and slowly i converted it to 12.3 wheel base and made it pretty much a full scx10 with aluminum stuff, better bumpers and wheels etc
I don't know if you could use these but McMaster-Carr sells metal female thread rod ends in 10-32 unf thd. They cost $3.32 each. They might be an alternative to drilling and tapping a plastic one.
You can't because they are massive in comparison. They wouldn't fit in any of the areas of the chassis, plus you need 20 of them total and that would really get expensive! Also the ball ID is much larger than the 3mm hardware we use.
All I want to say is thanks for doing these videos that show you can spend a little at a time and get a very well upgrade truck I'm thinking about doing this with the rebuild of my wraith
Hey glad to see a budget build again. I just finish a relocation of the escape and batt. Took a little fab but I like your idea of the escape plate. Hey I noticed you had the new 4PX in the back. How do you like the new plate form. Keep it going love the vids.
I'm digging the new radio, there are definitely some features that I'm excited to use. It will eventually find it's way into this build. But for now I'm still using the cheap-o remote that comes with it!
Harley Designs personally I am just getting the kit may be a tad bit more expensive but with what I already have being into r/c's already I don't really need to buy anything, but I think I am going to buy a motor anyway.
Are you going to have a part 2? I noticed you have done week 4 already. im kind of struggling with the length of the panhard and steering links eye to eye.
if anyone is wanting it, Vanquish VPS06973 is a full set of links with the chassis mount and panhard kit. it will also extend your wheelbase a half inch. I just installed on my new deadbolt. it is worth the money.
Yes it likely would but the low profile servos don't have much power. When we replace the servo it will definitely be something greater than 300 oz/in. Plus now we have a super low battery position for better COG.
Harley, I don't mean to be a pain, I love your videos and im far behind but I am fallowing the best I can.This will be the first RC that I fabricate parts for.Fallowing your video I have replaced all my stock links with my own fabricated links and it was a lot of fun. However I am at the point where I need to purchase the panhard mount and the cms mount to finish the link coversion. You mention getting bulk hardware from that page but they offer multiple types of hardware/lengths/and different screw heads for each kit.My question is which bulk hardware screws will be best to grab in order to finish this link conversion.Eagerly awaiting your relply,Ben
Ben, I suggest getting the bulk kit from either Screw Loose Hex Hardware or KNK Hardware. The kits have many of all the sizes you'll need to build a custom scaler.
Outstanding video! I have a lot of experience with the AX10/SCX10, but I have never attempted a CMS. It looks like just about every CMS setup requires some sort of a pan hard bar, is this because of the servo torque trying to push the axle side to side?
It's so that the axle swings in the same arc as the steering drag link will follow so that as the suspension cycles it doesn't change that distance and cause "bump steer". Also the panhard opposes the force of the drag link and keeps the chassis from moving away from the axle when steering force is applied.
I love these videos. Great organization and thanks for all the links in the description. Got to land me one of those hardware kits. Josh- just curious- are you an admin for RCCrawler?
I'm not deep into fabrication ... So I was looking for the complete vanquish 3 link conversion kit with cms . But im not sure it a 100$ plus buy... and some people seem to find it don't steer as good as the stock axle mount servo i will run the stock tactic servo with stock arm . I will appreciate some of your advises for my deadbolt ive already order an howler tray as my first mod
Hey was thinking about buying a csm, I'm still confused on how you mounted the servo to that bracket. Any way I can get some help, maybe a quick clip or something? Please an thank you. Ps love the mods, made my rig perform so much better.
Hey I have a few questions about the link set up you used I want to make my own bent links like yours did you have the make the bent links longer to compensate for the bends? If so what were the measurements for each link ? I still have the stock plastic links and noticed the lowers and uppers hit eachother when articulating. Did your bent links fix that. Is there any way you could make a video showing how you bent your links I watched your other video on making links but it didn't cover the bending procedure
The more you bend the more you will have to add. I usually build a scrap link out of all-thread and then measure and remake the link. As for the links hitting, I'm not sure how much articulation you are going for but about one tire height is all you really should be looking for. The stock links have more height to them so they can sometimes be an issue, my bent links were just for rock clearance.
Also do you know of a chassis mounted servo that allows u to keep the 4 link or do you think panhard is the way to go and do you think the benefits of the panhard outweigh the costs?
If you chassis mount the servo you need to add a panhard to counteract the forces that the servo tries to apply to the chassis. Keeping a 4 link is not the proper way to run a CMS.
I'm just gonna go with vanquish's 10 pc titanium bent link set and I also went with level3 Rc servo with panhard and the machined link mounts to go with it so I just want to remove one of the upper front links right
I have noticed just trying to find bent links at the stock deadbolt wheelbase is a pain but vanquish's vps03138 says theirs fit the wraith and deadbolt so well start there
I have this same setup on my Deadbolt. I'm using the stock Tactic servo and after installing everything I have very limited steering. Mainly turning left, but right and left are very limited compared to the axle mount setup. Any fix for this? I have set everything to neutral position on the servo and adjusted the arm several times with no luck.
There are many things that could be off. The length of your drag link, the angle of the drag link, servo arm length, mounting location on the knuckle. Do you have the ride heigh near stock? You want to make sure that the knuckle arm is as close to parallel with the servo arm as possible throughout the travel. If your servo arm starts pointing toward the knuckle too much you effectively lose all of the torque.
I was wondering if running the Holmes motor would help it from over heating. I'm running 2.2 axial beadlocks with 3oz weighted wheels all the way around, and it started overheating today for the first time. Any suggestions?
Hey dude. I recently got my deadbolt a bout a week ago. I have a unused D90 body that i plan to mount onto the deadbolt chassis. Any idea what i need to do? the D90 has a wheelbase of 10.8" and the deadbolt has a wheelbase of 12". Do i have to shorten links or can i just shift the suspension frame down along the chassis? Also any idea how i can change the position of the switch? With the D90 body I'm pretty sure it is locked down onto the chassis so it will be a problem. Cheers!
You need to change the links, trying to do anything else will result in poor performance. I remove the switch and solder the wires together, I do not like switches as they often fail. Plugging the battery in will then ten the truck on.
you're already past my skill level lol I've never had to fabricate anything if I pick one of these up it will be my first RC since the team associated gold pan
Holy old school Josh. I have two portal rigs and going to build a straight axle rig and thought why not I'll watch some really old Josh videos. 👍. Oddly enough there still helpful And informative. Your video stand the test of time Good job Josh. 😁
Thats a wild old video, back before CMS and 3-link was the norm!
Harley, thank you for your awesome videos. I just got done building all my own links and installing all the parts. If any of you are first time moders like me for RC this is a good and fun place to start. As Harley says, if you have a dremel ,dye/tap and a handle/clamp you should be alright :). I plan on doing the winch mod next. P.S the screw loose hardware he recommends has pretty fast shipping. Thanks again harley.
Another great update upgrade.Thanks Harley.
Hope you had a Merry Christmas Harley!
I realize this is a 3 year old video.... I just found it, and am so happy that the "Lowly" Deadbolt is getting some Love!! 😱😎😀
I'm going to go through this series, as the Deadbolt is likely the ONLY Axial I'll be able to afford. I figured that there's some SCX10 under there, and should be fairly capable.
I just hope that most of the parts you're using, are STILL available. (RC mfgrs don't seem to like keeping things available, for those of us who take a *long* time to gather enough money to be able to GET these awesome parts)
Anyway, I look forward to a great series!
Carmine 🚂
Hey, don't know if youre still working on this but I'm in the same boat as you. Bought a used deadbolt and slowly i converted it to 12.3 wheel base and made it pretty much a full scx10 with aluminum stuff, better bumpers and wheels etc
I don't know if you could use these but McMaster-Carr sells metal female thread rod ends in 10-32 unf thd. They cost $3.32 each. They might be an alternative to drilling and tapping a plastic one.
You can't because they are massive in comparison. They wouldn't fit in any of the areas of the chassis, plus you need 20 of them total and that would really get expensive! Also the ball ID is much larger than the 3mm hardware we use.
Yeh, I didn't check any dimensions. Just noticed them while looking for hardware for work.
All I want to say is thanks for doing these videos that show you can spend a little at a time and get a very well upgrade truck I'm thinking about doing this with the rebuild of my wraith
Great run down and explanation.
Harley. IS the VPS07330 CMS mount all I need?
Or do need the VPS06882 AXIAL JK POISON SPYDER CMS / FRONT BUMPER MOUNT SILVER as well?
Very nice, always enjoy your videos, never even thought of a traxxas receiver box, I will put that to work soon. Keep it up buddy
grate build wut do u do with all the stock part u dont use?
Hey glad to see a budget build again. I just finish a relocation of the escape and batt. Took a little fab but I like your idea of the escape plate. Hey I noticed you had the new 4PX in the back. How do you like the new plate form. Keep it going love the vids.
I'm digging the new radio, there are definitely some features that I'm excited to use. It will eventually find it's way into this build. But for now I'm still using the cheap-o remote that comes with it!
Harley Designs personally I am just getting the kit may be a tad bit more expensive but with what I already have being into r/c's already I don't really need to buy anything, but I think I am going to buy a motor anyway.
Harley Designs where's the part 2? I can't find it
Are you going to have a part 2? I noticed you have done week 4 already. im kind of struggling with the length of the panhard and steering links eye to eye.
I ended up getting sick and didn't get a chance to get it done. The eye to eye length of the drag link and panhard on my truck are 3 5/8" each.
if anyone is wanting it, Vanquish VPS06973 is a full set of links with the chassis mount and panhard kit. it will also extend your wheelbase a half inch. I just installed on my new deadbolt. it is worth the money.
Nice video! whats the small Cannon camera on the tripod in the back called?
Great video!
might work with a low profile servo as well
Yes it likely would but the low profile servos don't have much power. When we replace the servo it will definitely be something greater than 300 oz/in. Plus now we have a super low battery position for better COG.
Harley, I don't mean to be a pain, I love your videos and im far behind but I am fallowing the best I can.This will be the first RC that I fabricate parts for.Fallowing your video I have replaced all my stock links with my own fabricated links and it was a lot of fun. However I am at the point where I need to purchase the panhard mount and the cms mount to finish the link coversion. You mention getting bulk hardware from that page but they offer multiple types of hardware/lengths/and different screw heads for each kit.My question is which bulk hardware screws will be best to grab in order to finish this link conversion.Eagerly awaiting your relply,Ben
Ben, I suggest getting the bulk kit from either Screw Loose Hex Hardware or KNK Hardware. The kits have many of all the sizes you'll need to build a custom scaler.
What battery's do you use.
what are vanquish parts serial numbers , can't find the cms mount
When and why did you change the servo mount position?
Outstanding video!
I have a lot of experience with the AX10/SCX10, but I have never attempted a CMS. It looks like just about every CMS setup requires some sort of a pan hard bar, is this because of the servo torque trying to push the axle side to side?
It's so that the axle swings in the same arc as the steering drag link will follow so that as the suspension cycles it doesn't change that distance and cause "bump steer". Also the panhard opposes the force of the drag link and keeps the chassis from moving away from the axle when steering force is applied.
Very informational! love the scx10
Can you get a portal axle on the deadbolt?
Looking to do my own custom links. For the 1/4 stainless tubing, what's the ID and Wall Size to ensure my 8/32 all thread fits inside?
I love these videos. Great organization and thanks for all the links in the description. Got to land me one of those hardware kits. Josh- just curious- are you an admin for RCCrawler?
Yes I am an admin, it's definitely my home on the interwebs!
I'm not deep into fabrication ... So I was looking for the complete vanquish 3 link conversion kit with cms . But im not sure it a 100$ plus buy... and some people seem to find it don't steer as good as the stock axle mount servo i will run the stock tactic servo with stock arm . I will appreciate some of your advises for my deadbolt ive already order an howler tray as my first mod
Dominic B.C With the CMS setup properly, the steering will be the same as stock.
does this include 4 link suspension
Hey was thinking about buying a csm, I'm still confused on how you mounted the servo to that bracket. Any way I can get some help, maybe a quick clip or something? Please an thank you. Ps love the mods, made my rig perform so much better.
I don’t have this car anymore, but you should be able to see some more clips in the following videos.
where is part 2? cant find it
Hey I have a few questions about the link set up you used I want to make my own bent links like yours did you have the make the bent links longer to compensate for the bends? If so what were the measurements for each link ? I still have the stock plastic links and noticed the lowers and uppers hit eachother when articulating. Did your bent links fix that. Is there any way you could make a video showing how you bent your links I watched your other video on making links but it didn't cover the bending procedure
The more you bend the more you will have to add. I usually build a scrap link out of all-thread and then measure and remake the link. As for the links hitting, I'm not sure how much articulation you are going for but about one tire height is all you really should be looking for. The stock links have more height to them so they can sometimes be an issue, my bent links were just for rock clearance.
Also do you know of a chassis mounted servo that allows u to keep the 4 link or do you think panhard is the way to go and do you think the benefits of the panhard outweigh the costs?
If you chassis mount the servo you need to add a panhard to counteract the forces that the servo tries to apply to the chassis. Keeping a 4 link is not the proper way to run a CMS.
I'm just gonna go with vanquish's 10 pc titanium bent link set and I also went with level3 Rc servo with panhard and the machined link mounts to go with it so I just want to remove one of the upper front links right
I have noticed just trying to find bent links at the stock deadbolt wheelbase is a pain but vanquish's vps03138 says theirs fit the wraith and deadbolt so well start there
an old school way to waterproof the receiver is to put it in a balloon.i use to do that all the time with great results
I dont manufaktur my own links.. but if i upgrade my Deadbolt with Axial ar44 axles,,, what links would fit?
Hey Josh, I'm a bit late in this but just got a SCX10 and I want to do the links and servo MOD that you made... Can I still find those parts?
Nevermind, I just found want I need at EBay
I have this same setup on my Deadbolt. I'm using the stock Tactic servo and after installing everything I have very limited steering. Mainly turning left, but right and left are very limited compared to the axle mount setup. Any fix for this? I have set everything to neutral position on the servo and adjusted the arm several times with no luck.
There are many things that could be off. The length of your drag link, the angle of the drag link, servo arm length, mounting location on the knuckle. Do you have the ride heigh near stock? You want to make sure that the knuckle arm is as close to parallel with the servo arm as possible throughout the travel. If your servo arm starts pointing toward the knuckle too much you effectively lose all of the torque.
All it was is the servo adjustment on the radio...thanks for the reply
I was wondering if running the Holmes motor would help it from over heating. I'm running 2.2 axial beadlocks with 3oz weighted wheels all the way around, and it started overheating today for the first time. Any suggestions?
Jesse Fraley the axial 55 turn motor has more torque and works on the stock esc.
Squidink R/C thanks for the reply I ended up picking that up a few weeks ago had my first comp crawl this past weekend and it did great
Jesse Fraley no problem, would you mind checking out my channel? I have quite a few videos! Thanks - Squidink R/C
Hey dude. I recently got my deadbolt a bout a week ago. I have a unused D90 body that i plan to mount onto the deadbolt chassis. Any idea what i need to do? the D90 has a wheelbase of 10.8" and the deadbolt has a wheelbase of 12". Do i have to shorten links or can i just shift the suspension frame down along the chassis? Also any idea how i can change the position of the switch? With the D90 body I'm pretty sure it is locked down onto the chassis so it will be a problem. Cheers!
You need to change the links, trying to do anything else will result in poor performance.
I remove the switch and solder the wires together, I do not like switches as they often fail. Plugging the battery in will then ten the truck on.
Good video
Balloon+zip-tie= waterproof
you're already past my skill level lol I've never had to fabricate anything if I pick one of these up it will be my first RC since the team associated gold pan
There are always options to purchase parts but I really enjoy fabrication. That's why crawling is great.
+Harley Designs I might as well once I get back into it. it all seems overwhelming at first
'Budget' 50 dollars a week!?!?
Budget isn't defined exclusively as "cheap", it can simply mean a set amount of money. $50 a week makes for a much more interesting series.
good point. I didn't think of that.
+Harley Designs
I'm making a canopy for my honcho right now.
first...... :p