I've worked on pieces of Yew tree that are forty to fifty year old. I use them for the purpose of making small batten type of timber that will be durable, and I can use if needs be as slate and roofing battens for doing temporary repair. I didn't know it was a handle making material (what I liked about the Yew tree stems is that it's not difficult to obtain a straight piece of lumber from it). It lends itself very well to fabrication of small section items like battens, handles, long bows etc. The guys who shape those long bows really go in depth into using plane tools to shape the wood. What I found with Yew timber too is that it's fairly dry inside it. If one is careful one can utilize a small chainsaw to remove the jacket timber off, to provide one with the starting 'block' of lumber that be further shaped and fabricated from there.
I've taken the time to learn how to rip through some different varies of timber. Spruce logs, Cedar logs, Elm, Ash, Poplar, Yew, Pine. And what I discovered after a long amount of experimentation around using 3/8 inch chain, was something about raker maintenance of chainsaw chain (honestly it was one of the last things I ever bothered to work on, setting rakers using a gauge, but it produced one of the most dramatic results when ripping boards out of raw lumber logs). I employed a low profile semi-chisel chain as I was cutting through a lot of bark, but I was never satisfied with results. One day I had a .325 inch raker gauge that I was using to clean the grooves on my bar, and I decided to check my raker gauge (even though the chain was 3/8 inch semi chisel chain). So what I did was file my rakers down to the 'softwood' setting on the .325 inch raker gauge. I thought this will never work, but what it did do was to make the heights of my rakers all consistent, and quite low. I assumed it would be a disaster, and I started with it to rip a few 10 foot length Poplar logs with it. Fully expecting that this chain would be worthless. I don't even fully know what prompted me to even try this. So using an 85cc saw tool, it was surprising how well this low profile semi-chisel 3/8 inch chain worked in ripping through my Poplar. The chips were totally different, the chain which I'd always kept sharp but was never satisfied with, it ripped my logs much easier. With far less drama. And strangely I still had almost half a tank of fuel left after one log (previously, I had consumed one tank per one log). Needless to say that extra work I could do without a re-fuel made a big difference. Like a fifty percent improvement. And when ripping timber, because it's a hugely mundane activity to do, an improvement like that really impacts productivity. And lowers fuel consumption. Just for five minutes worth of raker chain maintenance. Different timbers, obviously different raker setting. I felt the chain was a lot more predictable and safer too with that raker setting.
What does it all add up to? Well, if it was me making those helicopter pads, and yes I know Cedar is it's own unique deal. The Cedar when wet inside is a dense, heavy timber. My gut feeling, when one can extract some real productivity advantage from customization of the chain for ripping purposes. It's worth having a specific chain for ripping timber (they do exist to buy off the shelf obviously, and I'm sure they're good, but one can take a standard semi-chisel chain loop, of the non- skip variety, and provided one has got a decent enough powerful saw to use, adjustment of the rakers to the right size really makes gains for ripping timber). What really impressed me too is how fast the chain worked when set up this way. It saved me about an hour per day of time, as well as the fuel saving. And that was on short 'half' days of three to four hour working (a fuel saving of 30 percent -ish, and a time saving of a quarter). Just by spending five minutes now and again on rakers. I did find, because semi- chisel is a pain to hand file, . . there are a couple of those Oregon file holders that help that. I use two different Oregon file holders. One is a flat one, and it helps to address the top plate of a semi- chisel chain. The old style Oregon file holder (that is a kind of triangular shape in cross section), is good to file the side plate of semi chisel for ripping logs. And for quick touch up's I use a normal Husqvarna file holder, combined with a sharp new 7-32's file. That attention to sharpness, combined with lowering of the rakers produced a combination using semi chisel chain, that for ripping logs did astonish me.
One last thing, I don't care what species of timber it is, . . . the easiest way to maintain productivity in ripping logs for using timber to build stuff with. Is to use a powerful saw to scribe a straightline the entire length of the log. What I tend to do is to double scribe my lines if I'm doing smaller logs, so making two parallel lines scribed. And then start the opposite to howmost folks riplogs, start from the end of this long scribed straight line. And gradually work back to the start of the long straightline. Cutting down through the depth of the log in lots of small stages. Using the tip of the bar a lot of the time, and the bar at a forty five degree angle to the log. Again, it's a fuel saving thing, and it saves the operator a bit too. Although it's contrary to what 99 percent of folks what I see ripping timber do.
Yew makes fine tool handles also great longbows. I've put bye a lot of yew whilst timber falling in the south of England. It grows very well on the Chalk Downland. Good clean logs, often hundreds of years old, demand high prices on the furniture and veneer market. I used to take good straight smaller stems home for my own use. Happy days
@@robertjohntaylor2369 The limestone country is just east of me in Ireland (and timber does grow different in that landscape, but there is less of it owing to intensities of grazing with livestock). I grew up mostly on top of shallow dry soil that sits on shale bedrock (type that creates iron in pipes that drain land). And further west of me is lots of peatlands, clays and such. Which is different again. The Yew specimens we grew I was surprised at the size they can make over time, if they get established. Universally, the problems I come across are oaks, chestnuts, Yew, ash, sycamore and virtually everything put into tiny plantations (the oaks I've seen here, and cedar that are used for ornamental reasons just go out of control). Clearly a lot of these species are not meant to be contained. You give a lot of these species twenty to thirty years, and they start to look something like what they could grow into over centuries. And it's why I think the real tree people get that, it's a challenge for these trees to survive (thirty year plantations are easy, and my information is that a lot of lumber now originates from managed short term plantation). One carpenter recently advised me for a roof I want to build to buy oversized timber and saw it back down to the right section dimension. He told me that I'll be a lot happier, it's possible to get one decent piece by whatever means out of a larger one. And the lumber now is all fairly crap. My thirty-five to forty year old Poplar, some of it isn't half bad, I'm stocking it up for rough formwork construction for a concrete pour. If I could wind back the clock, I'd have more Cedar planted too.
Bjarne, any idea when your 592 will return to work? I’m surprised that wherever your saw is that you’re not fixing it yourself. I’ve seen the stuff that you’ve been doing, so it surprised me that YOU didn’t fix it, unless you just haven’t been able to get the parts to your work camp. 🤔🧐
The Power of Suggestion - In my mind, having only seen you in your videos, you looked about 5'9" or 5'10". Ever since you proclaimed, you were tall in the last episode, my mind's eye sees a stretchier you. So, now I'm confused and curious. How tall are you, Bjarne?
I'm thinking that he's 6'2"" on one side and 5'10" on the other side due to the fact that he usually cuts on very steep slopes. We used to call them " side hill gougers"!!
That editing was top notch to time to the music. Well done to your editor!!
Great music during the wedging ... 😅 loved the rhythm..
Hahahaha
Super cool the song with the wedge banging!!
I laughed so hard when that music started coming in. Good timing with the rhythm. Another great video good sir! 🪓
Another hats off to your editor.
This guy, huh? The man's civility is one of the kindest characters I've found in any genre. Freeeking outstanding.
Great editing job with beating the wedge to the beat of the song. That was pretty cool, thank you!
Yew wood will shatter I've made axe handles with yew . Beautiful wood .
I've worked on pieces of Yew tree that are forty to fifty year old. I use them for the purpose of making small batten type of timber that will be durable, and I can use if needs be as slate and roofing battens for doing temporary repair. I didn't know it was a handle making material (what I liked about the Yew tree stems is that it's not difficult to obtain a straight piece of lumber from it). It lends itself very well to fabrication of small section items like battens, handles, long bows etc. The guys who shape those long bows really go in depth into using plane tools to shape the wood. What I found with Yew timber too is that it's fairly dry inside it. If one is careful one can utilize a small chainsaw to remove the jacket timber off, to provide one with the starting 'block' of lumber that be further shaped and fabricated from there.
I've taken the time to learn how to rip through some different varies of timber. Spruce logs, Cedar logs, Elm, Ash, Poplar, Yew, Pine. And what I discovered after a long amount of experimentation around using 3/8 inch chain, was something about raker maintenance of chainsaw chain (honestly it was one of the last things I ever bothered to work on, setting rakers using a gauge, but it produced one of the most dramatic results when ripping boards out of raw lumber logs). I employed a low profile semi-chisel chain as I was cutting through a lot of bark, but I was never satisfied with results. One day I had a .325 inch raker gauge that I was using to clean the grooves on my bar, and I decided to check my raker gauge (even though the chain was 3/8 inch semi chisel chain). So what I did was file my rakers down to the 'softwood' setting on the .325 inch raker gauge. I thought this will never work, but what it did do was to make the heights of my rakers all consistent, and quite low. I assumed it would be a disaster, and I started with it to rip a few 10 foot length Poplar logs with it. Fully expecting that this chain would be worthless. I don't even fully know what prompted me to even try this. So using an 85cc saw tool, it was surprising how well this low profile semi-chisel 3/8 inch chain worked in ripping through my Poplar. The chips were totally different, the chain which I'd always kept sharp but was never satisfied with, it ripped my logs much easier. With far less drama. And strangely I still had almost half a tank of fuel left after one log (previously, I had consumed one tank per one log). Needless to say that extra work I could do without a re-fuel made a big difference. Like a fifty percent improvement. And when ripping timber, because it's a hugely mundane activity to do, an improvement like that really impacts productivity. And lowers fuel consumption. Just for five minutes worth of raker chain maintenance. Different timbers, obviously different raker setting. I felt the chain was a lot more predictable and safer too with that raker setting.
What does it all add up to? Well, if it was me making those helicopter pads, and yes I know Cedar is it's own unique deal. The Cedar when wet inside is a dense, heavy timber. My gut feeling, when one can extract some real productivity advantage from customization of the chain for ripping purposes. It's worth having a specific chain for ripping timber (they do exist to buy off the shelf obviously, and I'm sure they're good, but one can take a standard semi-chisel chain loop, of the non- skip variety, and provided one has got a decent enough powerful saw to use, adjustment of the rakers to the right size really makes gains for ripping timber). What really impressed me too is how fast the chain worked when set up this way. It saved me about an hour per day of time, as well as the fuel saving. And that was on short 'half' days of three to four hour working (a fuel saving of 30 percent -ish, and a time saving of a quarter). Just by spending five minutes now and again on rakers. I did find, because semi- chisel is a pain to hand file, . . there are a couple of those Oregon file holders that help that. I use two different Oregon file holders. One is a flat one, and it helps to address the top plate of a semi- chisel chain. The old style Oregon file holder (that is a kind of triangular shape in cross section), is good to file the side plate of semi chisel for ripping logs. And for quick touch up's I use a normal Husqvarna file holder, combined with a sharp new 7-32's file. That attention to sharpness, combined with lowering of the rakers produced a combination using semi chisel chain, that for ripping logs did astonish me.
One last thing, I don't care what species of timber it is, . . . the easiest way to maintain productivity in ripping logs for using timber to build stuff with. Is to use a powerful saw to scribe a straightline the entire length of the log. What I tend to do is to double scribe my lines if I'm doing smaller logs, so making two parallel lines scribed. And then start the opposite to howmost folks riplogs, start from the end of this long scribed straight line. And gradually work back to the start of the long straightline. Cutting down through the depth of the log in lots of small stages. Using the tip of the bar a lot of the time, and the bar at a forty five degree angle to the log. Again, it's a fuel saving thing, and it saves the operator a bit too. Although it's contrary to what 99 percent of folks what I see ripping timber do.
Yew makes fine tool handles also great longbows. I've put bye a lot of yew whilst timber falling
in the south of England. It grows very well on the Chalk Downland. Good clean logs, often hundreds of years old, demand high prices on the furniture and veneer market.
I used to take good straight smaller stems home for my own use. Happy days
@@robertjohntaylor2369 The limestone country is just east of me in Ireland (and timber does grow different in that landscape, but there is less of it owing to intensities of grazing with livestock). I grew up mostly on top of shallow dry soil that sits on shale bedrock (type that creates iron in pipes that drain land). And further west of me is lots of peatlands, clays and such. Which is different again. The Yew specimens we grew I was surprised at the size they can make over time, if they get established. Universally, the problems I come across are oaks, chestnuts, Yew, ash, sycamore and virtually everything put into tiny plantations (the oaks I've seen here, and cedar that are used for ornamental reasons just go out of control). Clearly a lot of these species are not meant to be contained. You give a lot of these species twenty to thirty years, and they start to look something like what they could grow into over centuries. And it's why I think the real tree people get that, it's a challenge for these trees to survive (thirty year plantations are easy, and my information is that a lot of lumber now originates from managed short term plantation). One carpenter recently advised me for a roof I want to build to buy oversized timber and saw it back down to the right section dimension. He told me that I'll be a lot happier, it's possible to get one decent piece by whatever means out of a larger one. And the lumber now is all fairly crap. My thirty-five to forty year old Poplar, some of it isn't half bad, I'm stocking it up for rough formwork construction for a concrete pour. If I could wind back the clock, I'd have more Cedar planted too.
OK Now you did it!!! Awesome sync on soundtrackWOW Great work. Phil It felt like you gave me a chocolate cherry out of the thin air awesome
That's a Buckin' Billy Ray move, right there. 😁
No, thats bjarne butler.
Bjarne, you are a busy guy. That's awesome. Your mind is always thinking of things. Would be fun going on a gold hunt with ya.
Being of canadian decent i ha e alot of respect for you timber fellers love to come do it sometime
Schoolmarm: an old loggers term for a tree stem that branches into two or more trunks or tops.
Great video as always. I’d love another GoPro vid of you grinding out small stuff!
The best handle material is Osage Orange, aka Bois d’Arc. I’ve got plenty, would give you several blanks if I had a way to get them to you.
you are a perfect drummer 🙃
New claim came up for sale in Loss creek on the south-island between renfrew and Jordan river for like 200 bucks. Seen it on FB marketplace
Good job👍 greetings from Indonesia🙏
Let's go! 💪🫏❤️
A video of you making your axe handle or welding/modifying g your gear would be fun
Yea is good very slow growing so the grain is tight and tough
Bjarne, any idea when your 592 will return to work? I’m surprised that wherever your saw is that you’re not fixing it yourself. I’ve seen the stuff that you’ve been doing, so it surprised me that YOU didn’t fix it, unless you just haven’t been able to get the parts to your work camp. 🤔🧐
John Henry was a wedge drivin' man and so is Bjarne
Bjarne, you still not taken up my suggestion of using the same material as your wedges to make an axe handle🤦🏼♂️👍🏴
👋🏼
I THINK THE 390 OUT DOES THE 590,SOUNDS BETTER,SEEMS TO CUT ALOT FASTER.
....is it really December??
The Power of Suggestion - In my mind, having only seen you in your videos, you looked about 5'9" or 5'10". Ever since you proclaimed, you were tall in the last episode, my mind's eye sees a stretchier you. So, now I'm confused and curious. How tall are you, Bjarne?
I'm thinking that he's 6'2"" on one side and 5'10" on the other side due to the fact that he usually cuts on very steep slopes. We used to call them " side hill gougers"!!
@@keithpace-on4nk😂
Google says they are called school Marms because the real School Marms back in the day were allegedly known for open legs.
“SB” super Bjarne eh!!!
So strong Bjarne
Lift 20000 pound
😂
Let's see how you cut down the little trees for a change.!!?