Hey, thnx for the vid. I had one question, why use a resistor? I see most videos on this install not mention one and I see a few that do. I have a ethanol content analyzer and I’m setting it up with the P3 gauge and P3 voltage adapter. Thnx for answering my question.
@@RichLion no, it's high impedance so it draws next to no current. This is a common method to force known logic for a microcontroller inputs so it doesn't float or remain unknown.
Nice video gents. Few questions, if you did it again would you just reuse the oem fuel line? And when you mention resistors, one has to go in line with each the signal as well as the ground?
Resistor is in parallel to signal and 12V. It is a pull up resistor for the signal channel. You could totally reuse the OEM line. I believe we ended up using the OEM fittings for each end. So you really only need some clamps, the ECA, resistor, and fittings where it connects to the ECA, and extra wire.
Great video. i have it all wired up but getting no EC reading, just zero. i think it might be a bad ESVA. Did you use an ESVA or wire the signal cable to the brown analog input wire on the P3 wire harness? I wasn't sure if that's what you meant with the resistor you used. would like to be able to test bypassing the ESVA to rule out the sensor. thank you.
We aren't currently running it to the P3 gauge and you do need their input voltage adjustment circuit (ESVA) to make it work with the P3 gauge. In this video we wired it directly to the OBD2 port to be measured by the DS1 and displayed on the digital dash. Our sensor can go straight to the OBD port, no ESVA needed. You need to tie the resistor to that sensor output and 12V (pull up resistor). One leg soldered to the sensor output and one leg soldered to your 12V source.
@@HardwayLearning I was able to figure it out by testing each connection point with a digital multi meter. I wound up rewiring from the ethanol sensor to the ESVA using better wire. Just wanted to thank you again, the Amazon parts list with links, made this job way easier.
I cover this a very small amount in our initial setup video, but unfortunately we were using a tuner to create files so I don't know a whole lot about modifying the off the shelf files if that's what you're asking about.
That's more on who is tuning the car. As soon as we plugged it in, the ethanol content is updated on the gauges. You will have to work with your tuner to ensure timing and fuel is working optimally.
@@HardwayLearning good job , my only advice to secure and tidy things up a little bit would be to add any kind of insulation or protecting sleeve to your wire going in the engine bay , mac valve wire , ECA sensor wire , dont let them run bare , use some tape or sleeve or mesh , keep up the RS3 content , maybe you could do a small video on how your built engine is doing , oil consumption , piston noise , any downside , how you did the breaking in etc :D
It becomes more of an issue because we are trying to run 91/93 octane. With E85 the boost target is higher so you can work with the boost creep. 93 octane max boost target is 25psi, much over that and the car starts to knock due to too much heat. Since we are creeping past 29psi at 7000rpm and spiking between shifts we can't support 93 octane with those boost levels. With E85 the car should support boost up to 35psi, so it doesn't really matter if you boost creep to 29psi because you're still going to try and target above that. Basically the internal wastegate port on the OEM modified SRM manifold isn't large enough to bleed the pressure with the flap all the way open so we are going to run an external gate to make that flap much larger
Would be a lot of cost to just wire in 1 pin tbh. It's not all that difficult to pull the wire out of the OBD port, plus you don't really want that other wire communicating at the same time as the ECA.
I miss labeled the video. The resistor is a pull up resistor between Signal and 12V!!
Hey, thnx for the vid. I had one question, why use a resistor? I see most videos on this install not mention one and I see a few that do. I have a ethanol content analyzer and I’m setting it up with the P3 gauge and P3 voltage adapter. Thnx for answering my question.
@@SephiroTTh it's to ensure the signal is forced to 12V if it isn't being driven by the sensor otherwise it could "float" and cause a false reading.
@@HardwayLearning Does this mean the sensor is constantly powered (even when car is off and locked), and can lead to battery going flat?
@@RichLion no, it's high impedance so it draws next to no current. This is a common method to force known logic for a microcontroller inputs so it doesn't float or remain unknown.
Nice video gents. Few questions, if you did it again would you just reuse the oem fuel line? And when you mention resistors, one has to go in line with each the signal as well as the ground?
Resistor is in parallel to signal and 12V. It is a pull up resistor for the signal channel. You could totally reuse the OEM line. I believe we ended up using the OEM fittings for each end. So you really only need some clamps, the ECA, resistor, and fittings where it connects to the ECA, and extra wire.
Great video. i have it all wired up but getting no EC reading, just zero. i think it might be a bad ESVA. Did you use an ESVA or wire the signal cable to the brown analog input wire on the P3 wire harness? I wasn't sure if that's what you meant with the resistor you used. would like to be able to test bypassing the ESVA to rule out the sensor. thank you.
We aren't currently running it to the P3 gauge and you do need their input voltage adjustment circuit (ESVA) to make it work with the P3 gauge.
In this video we wired it directly to the OBD2 port to be measured by the DS1 and displayed on the digital dash.
Our sensor can go straight to the OBD port, no ESVA needed. You need to tie the resistor to that sensor output and 12V (pull up resistor). One leg soldered to the sensor output and one leg soldered to your 12V source.
@@HardwayLearning I was able to figure it out by testing each connection point with a digital multi meter. I wound up rewiring from the ethanol sensor to the ESVA using better wire.
Just wanted to thank you again, the Amazon parts list with links, made this job way easier.
@@clos2070 sweet, glad it worked out! Happy boosting 😁
Would love to see more on the DS1 tune. I’m interested in getting one but don’t know enough about it
I cover this a very small amount in our initial setup video, but unfortunately we were using a tuner to create files so I don't know a whole lot about modifying the off the shelf files if that's what you're asking about.
face book group. dyno spectrum..lots off info
Nice one! Perfect timing I’m installing mine in 2 days. Can you show more about integration of maps with ds1 and flex?
That's more on who is tuning the car. As soon as we plugged it in, the ethanol content is updated on the gauges. You will have to work with your tuner to ensure timing and fuel is working optimally.
Did you guys ever run an analog boost line? I'm assuming the OBD maxes out way below whatever boost you are running now?
No we did not, just running it off of OBD2 port 👍, but I actually haven't really had it connected since we got the DS1
hey did you remove the oem boost control solenoid when you installed the MAC valve for the SRM turbo ?
Yes, OEM controller is completely removed 🤘
@@HardwayLearning good job , my only advice to secure and tidy things up a little bit would be to add any kind of insulation or protecting sleeve to your wire going in the engine bay , mac valve wire , ECA sensor wire , dont let them run bare , use some tape or sleeve or mesh , keep up the RS3 content , maybe you could do a small video on how your built engine is doing , oil consumption , piston noise , any downside , how you did the breaking in etc :D
regarding the boost creep, is this a function of the SRM/Gen 2 setup or just when running 93 fuel?
It becomes more of an issue because we are trying to run 91/93 octane. With E85 the boost target is higher so you can work with the boost creep.
93 octane max boost target is 25psi, much over that and the car starts to knock due to too much heat. Since we are creeping past 29psi at 7000rpm and spiking between shifts we can't support 93 octane with those boost levels.
With E85 the car should support boost up to 35psi, so it doesn't really matter if you boost creep to 29psi because you're still going to try and target above that.
Basically the internal wastegate port on the OEM modified SRM manifold isn't large enough to bleed the pressure with the flap all the way open so we are going to run an external gate to make that flap much larger
@@HardwayLearning Appreciate your response. Sounds like I need to do a log on 93!!!
@@HardwayLearning are you gonna weld some V band flange for a tial wastegate on the SRM manifold ?
We are having a shop do it. Not sure I'd trust my welding abilities on a thick cast part like that 😂
Is there a UNItronic OTS tune for flex fuel or will I need to get it dyno tune?
I'm not sure about Unitronic, we use DS1 with a custom tune from Kyle LeBlanc at SRM
get a kit from Silly Rabbit !!
DIY or Die!
full of errors , poor instructions, no video of completed install ...welcome to youtube!
Why doesn’t someone use an obd splitter harness to make this pnp
Would be a lot of cost to just wire in 1 pin tbh. It's not all that difficult to pull the wire out of the OBD port, plus you don't really want that other wire communicating at the same time as the ECA.