On behalf of all of us, we’re really proud of what you’ve accomplished! Starting out as super basic but usable rolling stock, and now a BEAUTIFUL scale model of a locomotive that’s obnoxious to make? We’re proud of you Sam, and hope you can continue to make more of these beautiful projects in the future haha
Took one look at the thumbnail, and i knew we were in for a treat - great to see it fully decorated and running - very smart livery. Once again you amaze us again! Great video sam
Beautiful little loco. I can’t believe how you’ve learned to make top-quality models in such a short space of time. You really should start your own company. For your next project, I think it could be something from the North Staffordshire Railway since nobody’s ever made a model of a NSR loco before.
You really hit it out of the park with this, Sam. This is an excellent piece of work considering it's a one-man job, and the researching and testing makes it even better. Years of working with existing models clearly left a good impression on this. Regards, Samuel Farris.
Transfers can best be applied on a gloss surface; after which you can still varnish them with satin/matt or gloss. Whichever you prefer! Microsol/microset can help on rough surfaces to soften and set the decals in place. Lovely build!
I don't know how to express my happiness and amazement, the locomotive turned out majestic. You really are one of the best youtubers dedicated to this.
These design and build series are rapidly becoming my favourites of your videos. I really love the increase in fidelity with each model you produce. can't wait to see what's next
On a operating track in public, it is grade 'A'. Close up and in hand, grade 'C'. Mechanically with a small consist, as would be its normal operating condition, grade 'A'. Back in it's normal operating condition of 2 to 5 double axial cars it works fine. I don't know why most modern operators try to build up trains with loads of trains of 60 years later which still stall out. A very pleasant prototype.
Something that you can be really proud of. A magnificent piece of work and well worth the effort. If I owned a large commercial company on the look out for an opportunity I would be knocking on your door! Thank you for sharing the process with us all, it really has been enjoyable watching it all come together.
Let's not also forget that wheel assembly jig that Sam 3D printed for himself. It's one thing to make the model (done very well), but it's even more amazing to make the tools that make the model as well.
This loco looks absolutely beautiful. Well done Sam. Your idea with the sharpie is what I use to add colour to older models which don’t have the cab details painted. So much easier than using a paint brush.
Very impressive indeed Sam, you should be proud of that. Couple of things I have found out when doing decals / painting: 1) Decals need either an unpainted shiny plastic or a high gloss surface to properly sit on. Get yourself a good quality gloss varnish to go over the decal area first. 2) You mention using a sharpie for the nameplate (good outcome that), also have a look at paint pens. I have used Posca with success (available with very fine nibs). Best
Months of work, and this must have been so rewarding in the end Sam. You're selling yourself a bit short perhaps. She just looks stunning. On camera little niggles might show but she just looks fabulous. She really does. And what a leap up here. Especially the sheen is actually spot on as well; accidental perhaps, but just exactly right. I use cotton swaps to roll out air traps from transfers (don't push!) but specially bigger ones usually are a real annoyance and quite often do require more than one attempt. Yeah very annoying but that's how it often is. To remedy gaps, just use modelling putty Sam. Also remember that in physics, pulling requires less effort than pushing in similar circumstances. The latter adds to overcoming more friction. It's just how it works in physics and often explains some differences in performance at reversing. The single big wheel simply adds to the problem I suppose, lol. From both of us; well deserved compliments 👍 👍 👍 Cheerio.
Outstanding, I am in awe. Well done. With a single large driverloco a 24v motor works fine. I replaced a Triang single with a modern 24v motor and the running became more closer to prototype and smooth and powerful. You did a spectacular job on this Sam.
Transfers, do a coating of gloss varnish under them, this gives a smooth surface for the Transfer to stick to. Thus reducing the chance of air bubbles getting under the Transfer, preventing silvering. You can then spray your preferred varnish finish over the top, helping to seal the lot in. But mainly, what a great job, I wish I could have one!
I rarely comment on videos but am totally impressed with what you have accomplished! What would make it better? Sprung buffers! I jest, but only because you make a point of testing them all the time. I’ve seen lots of comments on the decals and how to improve on that, all very supportive. Thanks for including us in this journey.
It’s incredible to see how much you’ve improved in terms of 3D printed models, from your first open wagons, that ugly 4-4-0 you made and now this, it is a beautiful model you made Sam, and you should be very proud of it and I’m interested to see your next project, maybe a bigger engine with actual bogeys? Great vid as always
Christmas was just around the corner. Up and down the country, people were getting into the Christmas spirit. It was no exception in this cozy house in Derbyshire, where our dear Sam lives. ‘Sam, I’m back from Christmas shopping!’ yelled a middle-aged woman from the doorstep, it was Sam’s loving mother. On her arms were bags full of colourful Christmas goodies. ‘Wow, is it December already? Time really does fly.’ Sam said as he climbed down the loft ladders. He could barely contain his excitement! It only seemed like yesterday when he was ramming the Heljan Hymek into a sea of polystyrene balls. Had it nearly been a year? This year had been amazing for both him and his channel. Getting to handle Awdry’s original Thomas model, what could’ve been better than that? That was only one of the many great things he’d done this year. ‘Mother, is that what I think it is?’ Sam pointed at a giant red box buried underneath some decorative candles. He could make out some golden letters on the box. ‘Ugh, I was hoping to give this to you as a surprise! Nevermind,’ chuckled his mother, ‘You’re just like those eagle-eyed viewers who could tell what model boxes you have from a mile away, but with food!’ Sam couldn’t help but laugh. It was a frightfully accurate comparison. Sam’s mouth began to water as he admired the red box. On it with shiny golden letters read ‘Lindt Advent Calendar 2023’. Sam had always enjoyed chocolate, with Lindt being his absolute favourite brand. ‘Ding dong’, came the sound of the doorbell. Sam rushed to open the front door, a blonde girl wrapped her arms around him. ‘Sam, are you ready for us to spend our third Christmas together?*Apologies if this is inaccurate.*’ she whispered into the ear of her handsome boyfriend. ‘I should get back to filming,’ Sam told Chloe softly, ‘Want to get that Coca-cola tram review out this year!’ Chloe squeezed Sam’s hands tightly, she wanted to spend more time with Sam, but she understood that Sam’s job is important. He mustn’t disappoint his audience! Sam’s mother yawned lazily on the armchair, ‘All that Christmas shopping has tired me,’ she mumbled. ‘I’ll go upstairs for a nap.’ Chloe was now left all alone. Her eyes darted around the living room. What was something interesting to do? She giggled when she saw the medieval soldier costume folded neatly in a cupboard. Somehow, she had not spotted it there before. A 22-year-old Sam had once been in that outfit for a Halloween video. Earlier this year, she watched that video with him to celebrate the 10th year anniversary of his main channel. That was a fun video to film. Making videos with Sam is fast becoming one of their favourite activities together. Chloe’s tummy made an awful growl. She hadn’t eaten anything all afternoon! She went instinctively into the kitchen, hoping to make something to eat. What caught her attention, however, was the box of Lindt chocolate on the pantry. She was sure that Sam would not mind her taking a few. The naughty girl carefully slid the box open... ‘Hey, fancy seeing you here,’ came a voice from the kitchen door. Chloe’s hands flew behind her back to hide the box of chocolates. It was Carrot, one of Sam’s sisters. ‘I’m just checking what food we have left,’ Chloe stammered. Carrot took a spoon of yogurt from the fridge and left. She didn’t doubt Chloe one bit! After all, Chloe is such a wonderful chef. Carrot and Sam both secretly hoped Chloe could come and cook for their family every day. Even Sam’s signature dish, the Modelrailwayman’s Broth, isn’t a patch compared to what Chloe can make. With Carrot gone, Chloe quickly popped a few pieces of chocolate into her mouth. Yum, they were delicious! She could replace them afterwards. Sam would be completely oblivious. A few days later, it was time for Sam to open the first window of the advent calendar. Oh no, the silly girl had forgotten to put the chocolates back! Whatever would her boyfriend say? Chloe crossed her fingers, dreading Sam’s reaction. In the nick of time, she remembered the knight costume she’d seen, ‘Hey Sam, would you look at that?’ said Chloe, pointing at the costume. Sam let go of the box of chocolates. He was amazed to see that awful outfit again. He thought his mother had thrown it away ages ago! ‘Sam, would you mind putting this on?’ pleaded Chloe. Sam gave his girlfriend a funny look, what a weird request! Being the kind man he is, he would simply do anything for the love of his life, so he grabbed the costume and retreated to the bathroom. ‘Chocolates, chocolates, where can I find chocolates?’ Chloe thought furiously. She slipped her hands into her pockets mindlessly. Golly! There were some of her homemade chocolates! She quickly slid open the box, popping her sweets into the empty slots. Sam marched into the room in his Halloween outfit. ‘H...h...how do I look?’ he whispered humorously. Chloe handed him the advent calendar. Without a second glance, Sam ripped into the first partition. Chloe watched in silence as Sam munched joyfully on her homemade piece. ‘Hmm, did Lindt change their formula?’ Sam murmured. Chloe’s face fell, he had noticed after all. Would Sam be mad with her for stealing his food? Would he decide to break up with her? ‘This taste even better than last year! The workers at Lindt deserve a pay rise!’ Sam went on, giving Chloe a wink. Chloe let out a huge sigh of relief. She looked thoughtfully at the mistletoe hang high up above the door, as Sam planted a nice warm kiss on her cheeks. Has she successfully fooled Sam? We will leave that to the reader to decide.
Apologies for the lots of separate comments, dodging kids means I have to watch these in stages! Tips for painting… When painting coaches I use a fully gloss varnish (nice and shiny) for 2 layers, then apply the transfers and a final layer of satin varnish (I used windsor and Newton Acrylic Varnish) gives a nice shiny, satin finish but not too shiny As for embossed lettering, I use citadel black, wipe the paint off on the side of the pot and use the side of the brush perfectly flat across the top, it will paint the top of detail and leave the background uncoloured Hope this helps, great job on this, love the lining on the tender especially
One thing I recommend for the decals having bubbles beneath them (also known as "silvering" in scale modeling terms) is to use decal solutions like Micro Set/Sol and Humbrol Decalfix, what they do is softening the decals so it conforms better to more bumpy surfaces.
Maybe this will be a new way to do model railroading! Every one of us designing and printing our own models and sharing our creations with others ! (Yes until the 3D printers become even more cheaper for public avail). Thanks Sam for showing how its done !
Sam, your projects are amazing and you do yourself a disservice every time you compare your loco decoration to what a factory can produce. Genuinely in awe of this amazing project. If I could design in CAD to even 10% of what you can do, I'd be pleased with myself. Good idea on re-visiting Copper knob in resin. The 552 would be superb in resin too. Well done again.
You did a great job paining the locomotive Sam, don’t be so hard on yourself; I think you did great. Keep up the great content, and the great work you do for the model railroad community.
Oh come on, this is a SERIOUSLY commendable effort for a home made loco! You should be VERY pleased with this! Plus, the learning you've derived while building this will serve VERY well for the future ... :)
One trick you can use with the transfer decals is to spray the model with a gloss varnish, apply the decal, then spray with whatever varnish you intend to use. They go down much nicer on gloss surfaces. It's really a beautiful piece of work though. Congratulations on a job well done! :)
I had no idea these engines were painted green! I always assumed they were always in lined black like most other LNWR engines I've seen pictures of. This model looks like something I would see in a museum! Such an amazing scratchbuild. I would suggest using crushed coal instead of a 3D printed coal load for your next steam loco build. I want to see you make a diesel or electric locomotive/railcar in the near future.
Sam, you have been an inspiration in designing and building this model. I think you have been too hard on yourself with “Sam’s your model review”. What an a achievement! You not only the talk with your always consistent and considered model reviews, you clearly “walk the walk” in your understanding of what makes a great model locomotive that is also value for money.
I have to say, the 3D locos you make are absolutely marvelous. They go to the length of realism. Given you started out small with the manning wardle, and those freelance designs, you have certainly grown up in that sense. Well, we've focused on Old Copernob, Gladstone, GER 552, and Problem. Guess we need a fifth loco to join the team...
I think the finish has a faded weathered look to it. I think the results are excellent! You should be very proud of yourself. A very nice model that would look great on a period layout. I remember seeing scratch built locomotives many years ago, made out of necessity because they weren’t commercially available. Well done Sam!
It is a beautiful loco, but I think that one thing is missing- driver and firemen! Maybe you could print or buy the figures and place them on the footplate. This would make the loco less odd too look at while running.
I deal with transfers too, the first transfers i made had some of those issues you had aswell, the flat matt probably made it worse, but what I do to avoid bubbles is let it dry for the night before putting on any varnish. Also the tiny layers of the printer are visible, but they are so minuscule that you can hide them in the priming stage. I give my 3D printed trains a few thin layers of primer till those layers are completely gone before painting it the colors. It hides any trace of the production process. All in all you can be very proud of your work! Keep it up! Also the wheel slip is not a bug that is a feature, I would be surprised if the real thing with this layout did not have wheel slip.
Gotta give yourself more credit. This looks amazing and you’ll definitely get better over time. Your custom locomotives and rolling stock need their own Sam’s Trains custom packaging
This is really impressive. Yes it's not a professional model but I believe that most of your viewers, myself included, would be more than satisfied if we were able to produce a model this good. The vents on the splashers particularly stand out for me. Other modellers tips all say to apply a gloss or semi gloss finish before applying decals, a matt or satin varnish can then be used to dull down the gloss to the level you require. A little more time and effort but helps eliminate silvering and air bubbles.
9:20 a way to do embossed lettering that I've seen before is to print the piece the colour you want the lettering to be, then spray paint it, then sand the paint off
I have seen some toy restoration videos where the raised details were "stamped" with fine foam dipped in paint. Possibly dabbing with the the side of a small foam brush might work. An area for experimentation with paint thickness etc.
Brilliant Sam ,well done. Nice to see GER loco and Coppernob out on the line again too.If I may make a suggestion for the next one, how about a Scotland for inspiration? I know HR 103 is in the pipeline, but no RTR manufacturers have ever touched the Great North of Scotland, or the Glasgow and South Western. Both had a good selection of attractive engines. Take a look, you'll find something you like I'm sure.
Outstanding Sam, loved watching this series. What is impressive to me is the engineering to get a large wheel running at the same speed as the smaller ones. Each model you've built has certainly pushed the boat out a little further. Think Copper Knob still my favourite. What's telling is you went from nothing to design, to prototype to build in 3 month, so why does it take so long for the big companies (2 years plus plus) to get their products out. If time is money I'm sure that adds to the end cost. Thanks from Aotearoa.
Gorgeous model. Resin printing has greatly improved the detail and resolution and now it looks like you're really getting close to professional models in terms of detail and finesse. I've been watching this project with an engineer's eye and I actually have a few ideas on how to improve things even further: - You've probably already thought about it but I think it would be a good idea to use metal threads whenever possible, especially for frequently removed parts like the base keeper plate. Just create an opening with a nut cross-section from the other side (the requirement is that the other side must be accessible of course) and fit a nut into it using a semi-tight fit so that it doesn't fall out too easily. Square nuts are perfect for this if you don't mind looking for them specifically - When I watched you fit pickups to this loco I had an idea. I remembered those spring loaded contacts that Dapol (I think it was Dapol?) used on one of their models. These are also called pogo pins and they're actually meant to be used as pcb connectors but clearly they also work as locomotive pickups. Some of them are around 3-4 mm of total height so with a little bit of imagination they should fit in a loco chassis as long as the driving mechanism is not in the way. They might be a little bit tricky to solder cause most of them are made for pcb surface mount (they don't have any soldering terminals) but I think some do have a short pin on the other end that would make the soldering easier. If you managed to get your hands on some of those that are small enough to fit inside the loco chassis I think it would greatly improve pick up reliability and spare you some wire bending. Not sure what the added cost would be cause that probably depends greatly on where you buy - Sprung buffers? Lemme guess you're already working on those aren't you?
Wow!! That’s amazing! I would never have been able to pull something like that off!! I thought the unpainted version was good but this is off the scale good!! If I had to pick one of your trains from your collection to be mine then I’m picking that in a heartbeat. Watch out Hornby there’s a new legend in town!!
Fantastic result. +1 for the Sharpie! Use then quite regularly around here - even on commercial kits. I'd love to see an update to "Old Copper Knob" on the Resin printer.
Congratulations Sam! The loco looks great and you should be very proud. A single application of satin varnish over flat paint won't do much to kill the flatness. I'd use two coats of gloss prior to application of the decals, then apply whatever final finish you want. Also, a decal softening solution in addition to the usual setting solution might help. For larger bubbles underneath a decal I've used a very sharp pin to get the air out, followed by more setting solution. You just have to be careful to make only the tiniest of holes and not tear the decal. My main problem with decals has always been messing about with them too much after they are on the surface. So getting them positioned well when sliding them off the backing is a key skill (with which I still struggle!). Again, you should be very proud of your accomplishment with this Problem Class. Cheers from Wisconsin! PS: I know you aren't a big fan of weathering on rolling stock, but weathering is an excellent way to cover up (or at least distract from) minor construction and decoration problems. 🙂
Fantastic job. Democratising production like this is really good for the hobby because it’s long been at the mercy of corporations who see their customers as a sponge to extract all the money they can from, just because the key demographic is thought to have masses of disposable income. Admittedly, it’s not for everyone, and the initial outlay for equipment and materials is quite steep, but I’d loved to see more people in this hobby attempt their own rolling stock and even engines. Please carry on with this sideline on this channel!
Sorry Sam, but you are wrong about the locomotive name. It shouldn't be "Problem". More correctly it should be the Superb Class, because it looks absolutly superb!! I wish the mainstream manufacturers made Victorian locos. Yours is really stunning.
Outstanding work. You've come a long way with your resin printing, and frankly most of the things you point out in the video as being "issues" is pretty much just inherint side effects of resin printing. I'd say there just isn't much more you can do re: layer lines/ warping at this stage with where the tech is at, and imo its only noticable with a macro lens for most people's eyes, anyway. In terms of the flat finish, there's a bit of a trick some scale modellers use which I recently discovered. Starting out with 1 or 2 layers of gloss varnish makes a great smooth surface for working with decals, plus it tends to offer better protection for the paint. Once you've done this and sorted out your decals, you can then at a mat varnish to bring it back to the finish you want with gentle thin layers (just make sure you do a deep clean of your airbrush before applying several clear coats. Any fleck of dry paint sittin gin the nozzle with spoil the effect).
This is mental! You're becoming better and better with Model making! if I could give you a idea, perhaps a diesel? like not expres but just a small little box diesel shunter, it would be a simple body so you could add more details along the body?
That's absolutely beautiful, Sam. I was racking my brain to see if I could think of what it reminded me of. Then it came to me: Lord Belborough's engine that he drives in the classic stop-motion children's show, 'Chigley'. It's also where the catchy, and oft parodied Song 'Time Flies By, When You're The Driver Of A Train' comes from. Sorry.
To apply decals without bubbles, Sam, I'd recommend the use of some decal setting solution. I've used 'Micro Set, and Micro Sol' (#notspon) for Possibly 30+ years now. If you do use them, please read the instructions, and obey them to the letter. You'll have no problems if you do. If I still had hair, I'd have pulled it all out in frustration, at the number of modellers on UA-cam who use them incorrectly. Decals work best on a gloss surface, and when they are set, can be given a light spray of matt or satin clear coat to fix them permanently, and allow you to weather over the top of them, if you wish.
It looks pretty damn good for being home made, so congratulations are in order! If you're looking for a good satin varnish though, I can strongly recommend the VMS stuff, sprays well with or without thinner but I would add some thinner for sure if your air brush needle/nozzle is smaller than 0.5mm. normal hairy brush application still works a treat though!
Fabulous Job, it looks really good and a very well built chassis and mechanism too. We've gone on for years about having details like daylight under the boiler, but daylight through the boiler? You're leading the industry Sam!🤣😂🤣
Sam, for the decals, you should use waterslide transfers on a gloss finish. That way, the transfers stick better. The matte varnish has to be done after all thats done. I will try this myself as well, since I heard about this before. I hope this helps!
Lovely yet again sam you should be very proud of your self watching these three locos you built yourself running around is a joy and from a distance you can't tell the difference 👍
It's so very good looking. Your skill shows through. I love the look of these single wheel flyers, they look like they are going fast just standing still. 🏆
If you still want to add things to that list of projects, how about trying to make print in place rolling stock? Something like a flat wagon that you take from the build plate, remove any supports, give the wheels a turn to check that they rotate freely and put it straight on the tracks. Bonus points if it can be printed in multiple colours.
Great job! Your skills are really developing and the move to resin is paying off big time - this is your best loco yet, and a fantastic prototype to boot! You can be justifiably proud of this model. More pre-grouping please!
Very nice job indeed! Congratulations! I also start designing my own locomotives in 3D, I dond't own a 3D printer but a friend of mine does so... Regarding the transfers, the problem is that all models are printed in layers and this is visible in your macro shots, so the transfer does not have a plane surface to stick to, that is why you have silvering in your decals. In order to avoid this you must prep your surface before painting using primer and sanding after. I heard that using acetone vapors (puting some acetone in a small jar and the model under a glass jar and keeping them for 1-2 hours) works for filament printers, I don't know about resin ones but you can test this. It will smoothen the printer layers. Keep up the good job!
Always onwards and upwards Sam, well done. i think this is a lovely loco and of course when you highlight them i can see there are minor imperfections, but is that avoidable I wonder. well done again and thanks for this channel, always worrth a look peter
Amazing work as usual Sam, the detail is an impressive step up and I am interested to see you develop skills to more efficiently build models like this in the future. Also, a technique commonly found in gunpla modelling is something we use to paint raised lining sections, and is called a "Reverse wash" technique. I use this to paint brass nameplates, as well as raised details with recessed areas you can't access with a brush. Basically you paint the colour of the recessed area first, and then paint the colour of raised area second, and wipe it away with the appropriate thinner. Something to keep in mind here is that this technique relies on using two different types of paint and using a "stronger" paint for the undercoat as to not wipe it away at the same time as the raised coat. Another thing you may consider is buying a printer capable of printing waterslide decals, in the gunpla world, people use photoshop to create their own decals and print them on blank decal paper to get the desired effect, I am unsure as to the exact details of the process but I know it is possible to print your own waterslide decals relatively easily.
Fantastic Sam. Well done. If you want to glaze the windows have you heard of Kristal Klear? Its used my plastic kit modelllers for glazing airliner windows etc. It's basically pva glue that dries clear. Pop a drop on a cocktail stick and drag it round the inside of the hole and gently remive the stick to leave a film over the hole and let ut dry. Only goid for small aparures though.
Seeing three different locos you made yourself running along the line really is heartwarming. You're a right little Awdry now, aren't ya? I think all you need to give a try at now is kitbashing.
It’s a good effort and performs fairly well, it’ll be interesting to see how the resin lasts for the moving parts. To take things further you could use some of the many available detail parts such as hand rails, valves and whistles etc, yes they will cost a bit more but still be less than a RTR loco. The metal parts will add a bit if finesse to the finished model.
Well done Sam! As you asked, one thing I notice you can address is the support tabs left between the wheel spokes can be trimmed up with an Exacto or hobby knife. Also some globs of plastic here and the on the body could be sanded down to give a smooth finish. Yeah, a little generous but hey, good job!
That is so much more than just "okay". It is absolutely GORGEOUS, even larger-than-life-size on my monitor. I appreciate your honesty in scoring this as you would any commercial product, but the score seems low to me. Jason Shron, owner of Rapido Trains, had a modest start (but high standards, and a delightful and righteous madness) - and look what he has achieved today. There is nothing holding you back from greatness.
The only very minor but important thing I can note is the fact that when you look through the driving wheel, you can see the opposite driving wheel through the non-existent boiler. A bit ironic really because most commercial locos some years ago were criticised for an inability to see daylight UNDER the boiler! Nonetheless, a brilliant model, Sam. At 81, my modelling days are coming to a close. Yours are burgeoning wonderfully!
Regarding the bubbles under the decals/tampos (sp?): spray a semigloss clearcoat over the model. It will provide a good surface for it to adhere to. Apple and coat the decal with Micro-sol (or the equivalent) to get a painted on look.Then spray another layer of clearcoat over the model to protect the decals.
It’s wonderfully surreal to see such an expertly made model from 3d printing and a person who is treated and talked about like someone who isn’t a “true” modeller. Go on Sam! Show them what you can do!
@@SamsTrains as someone waiting for a milling machine (bca jig borer) to be able to build models without the personal challenge of cad(I still hate cad after years of knowing it), it’s inspiring you can do without such utilities! Cheers! You deserve it!
Impressive! I doff my hat and salute your modeling skills and patience. Each of your projects has been better than the last. The learning process has got to be exciting!
On behalf of all of us, we’re really proud of what you’ve accomplished! Starting out as super basic but usable rolling stock, and now a BEAUTIFUL scale model of a locomotive that’s obnoxious to make? We’re proud of you Sam, and hope you can continue to make more of these beautiful projects in the future haha
omg molly hiii
Very proud of you Sam
@@Its_PacFanmlem, is me
It really is a beautiful model of an interesting looking loco.
@@_molls yuhhh how are u???
Who else remembers when Sam thought he couldn’t do something like this!? Fantastic job and a fantastic result.
haha it wasn't that long ago... I can't take full credit though... it's this technology that makes it all possible!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Took one look at the thumbnail, and i knew we were in for a treat - great to see it fully decorated and running - very smart livery. Once again you amaze us again! Great video sam
Thanks Jack - really glad you liked it my friend!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrainscould you do a class 69?
Cheers boss
Better than Hellman lol
Beautiful little loco. I can’t believe how you’ve learned to make top-quality models in such a short space of time. You really should start your own company.
For your next project, I think it could be something from the North Staffordshire Railway since nobody’s ever made a model of a NSR loco before.
Thank you so much Josh - I would love that! And sounds good, thanks for the suggestion!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Ah, a Hookham express tank, please!
One of the C or F class 0-6-4t tanks would be amazing.
Finally the LNWR Problem class is finally finished, you did a absolutely wonderful job on making this Sam :)
Cheers Jasper & Willow
You really hit it out of the park with this, Sam. This is an excellent piece of work considering it's a one-man job, and the researching and testing makes it even better. Years of working with existing models clearly left a good impression on this. Regards, Samuel Farris.
Thank you so much Samuel - it sure was a long but fun process :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Transfers can best be applied on a gloss surface; after which you can still varnish them with satin/matt or gloss. Whichever you prefer!
Microsol/microset can help on rough surfaces to soften and set the decals in place. Lovely build!
I don't know how to express my happiness and amazement, the locomotive turned out majestic. You really are one of the best youtubers dedicated to this.
These design and build series are rapidly becoming my favourites of your videos. I really love the increase in fidelity with each model you produce. can't wait to see what's next
On a operating track in public, it is grade 'A'. Close up and in hand, grade 'C'. Mechanically with a small consist, as would be its normal operating condition, grade 'A'. Back in it's normal operating condition of 2 to 5 double axial cars it works fine. I don't know why most modern operators try to build up trains with loads of trains of 60 years later which still stall out. A very pleasant prototype.
Something that you can be really proud of. A magnificent piece of work and well worth the effort. If I owned a large commercial company on the look out for an opportunity I would be knocking on your door! Thank you for sharing the process with us all, it really has been enjoyable watching it all come together.
Thank you so much - I think it was worth it too, really appreciate the kind words!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrainsAGREED!!
WELL DONE, OL' CHAP!!!
Let's not also forget that wheel assembly jig that Sam 3D printed for himself. It's one thing to make the model (done very well), but it's even more amazing to make the tools that make the model as well.
This loco looks absolutely beautiful. Well done Sam. Your idea with the sharpie is what I use to add colour to older models which don’t have the cab details painted. So much easier than using a paint brush.
Just one improvement I can suggest Sam. You can see light through the driving wheels where there should be a boiler in the way
Very impressive indeed Sam, you should be proud of that.
Couple of things I have found out when doing decals / painting:
1) Decals need either an unpainted shiny plastic or a high gloss surface to properly sit on. Get yourself a good quality gloss varnish to go over the decal area first.
2) You mention using a sharpie for the nameplate (good outcome that), also have a look at paint pens. I have used Posca with success (available with very fine nibs).
Best
If I didn't know this was 3-D printed, I would've thought it was a commercially made model. Great job on the design, production, and decoration!
Months of work, and this must have been so rewarding in the end Sam. You're selling yourself a bit short perhaps. She just looks stunning. On camera little niggles might show but she just looks fabulous. She really does. And what a leap up here. Especially the sheen is actually spot on as well; accidental perhaps, but just exactly right. I use cotton swaps to roll out air traps from transfers (don't push!) but specially bigger ones usually are a real annoyance and quite often do require more than one attempt. Yeah very annoying but that's how it often is. To remedy gaps, just use modelling putty Sam. Also remember that in physics, pulling requires less effort than pushing in similar circumstances. The latter adds to overcoming more friction. It's just how it works in physics and often explains some differences in performance at reversing. The single big wheel simply adds to the problem I suppose, lol. From both of us; well deserved compliments 👍 👍 👍 Cheerio.
Blow your own trumpet Sam! What a wonderful result!
Outstanding, I am in awe. Well done. With a single large driverloco a 24v motor works fine. I replaced a Triang single with a modern 24v motor and the running became more closer to prototype and smooth and powerful. You did a spectacular job on this Sam.
You have done amazing work, Sam. You should be very proud. Can’t wait to see what your next project is
Transfers, do a coating of gloss varnish under them, this gives a smooth surface for the Transfer to stick to. Thus reducing the chance of air bubbles getting under the Transfer, preventing silvering. You can then spray your preferred varnish finish over the top, helping to seal the lot in. But mainly, what a great job, I wish I could have one!
I rarely comment on videos but am totally impressed with what you have accomplished! What would make it better? Sprung buffers! I jest, but only because you make a point of testing them all the time. I’ve seen lots of comments on the decals and how to improve on that, all very supportive. Thanks for including us in this journey.
It’s incredible to see how much you’ve improved in terms of 3D printed models, from your first open wagons, that ugly 4-4-0 you made and now this, it is a beautiful model you made Sam, and you should be very proud of it and I’m interested to see your next project, maybe a bigger engine with actual bogeys?
Great vid as always
Well done Sam. Thank you so much for picking my favourite LNWR locomotive and promoting the LNWR to a wider audience.
Christmas was just around the corner. Up and down the country, people were getting into the Christmas spirit. It was no exception in this cozy house in Derbyshire, where our dear Sam lives.
‘Sam, I’m back from Christmas shopping!’ yelled a middle-aged woman from the doorstep, it was Sam’s loving mother. On her arms were bags full of colourful Christmas goodies. ‘Wow, is it December already? Time really does fly.’ Sam said as he climbed down the loft ladders. He could barely contain his excitement! It only seemed like yesterday when he was ramming the Heljan Hymek into a sea of polystyrene balls. Had it nearly been a year? This year had been amazing for both him and his channel. Getting to handle Awdry’s original Thomas model, what could’ve been better than that? That was only one of the many great things he’d done this year.
‘Mother, is that what I think it is?’ Sam pointed at a giant red box buried underneath some decorative candles. He could make out some golden letters on the box. ‘Ugh, I was hoping to give this to you as a surprise! Nevermind,’ chuckled his mother, ‘You’re just like those eagle-eyed viewers who could tell what model boxes you have from a mile away, but with food!’ Sam couldn’t help but laugh. It was a frightfully accurate comparison. Sam’s mouth began to water as he admired the red box. On it with shiny golden letters read ‘Lindt Advent Calendar 2023’. Sam had always enjoyed chocolate, with Lindt being his absolute favourite brand.
‘Ding dong’, came the sound of the doorbell. Sam rushed to open the front door, a blonde girl wrapped her arms around him. ‘Sam, are you ready for us to spend our third Christmas together?*Apologies if this is inaccurate.*’ she whispered into the ear of her handsome boyfriend.
‘I should get back to filming,’ Sam told Chloe softly, ‘Want to get that Coca-cola tram review out this year!’ Chloe squeezed Sam’s hands tightly, she wanted to spend more time with Sam, but she understood that Sam’s job is important. He mustn’t disappoint his audience! Sam’s mother yawned lazily on the armchair, ‘All that Christmas shopping has tired me,’ she mumbled. ‘I’ll go upstairs for a nap.’ Chloe was now left all alone. Her eyes darted around the living room. What was something interesting to do? She giggled when she saw the medieval soldier costume folded neatly in a cupboard. Somehow, she had not spotted it there before. A 22-year-old Sam had once been in that outfit for a Halloween video. Earlier this year, she watched that video with him to celebrate the 10th year anniversary of his main channel. That was a fun video to film. Making videos with Sam is fast becoming one of their favourite activities together.
Chloe’s tummy made an awful growl. She hadn’t eaten anything all afternoon! She went instinctively into the kitchen, hoping to make something to eat. What caught her attention, however, was the box of Lindt chocolate on the pantry. She was sure that Sam would not mind her taking a few. The naughty girl carefully slid the box open...
‘Hey, fancy seeing you here,’ came a voice from the kitchen door. Chloe’s hands flew behind her back to hide the box of chocolates. It was Carrot, one of Sam’s sisters. ‘I’m just checking what food we have left,’ Chloe stammered. Carrot took a spoon of yogurt from the fridge and left. She didn’t doubt Chloe one bit! After all, Chloe is such a wonderful chef. Carrot and Sam both secretly hoped Chloe could come and cook for their family every day. Even Sam’s signature dish, the Modelrailwayman’s Broth, isn’t a patch compared to what Chloe can make. With Carrot gone, Chloe quickly popped a few pieces of chocolate into her mouth. Yum, they were delicious! She could replace them afterwards. Sam would be completely oblivious.
A few days later, it was time for Sam to open the first window of the advent calendar. Oh no, the silly girl had forgotten to put the chocolates back! Whatever would her boyfriend say? Chloe crossed her fingers, dreading Sam’s reaction. In the nick of time, she remembered the knight costume she’d seen, ‘Hey Sam, would you look at that?’ said Chloe, pointing at the costume. Sam let go of the box of chocolates. He was amazed to see that awful outfit again. He thought his mother had thrown it away ages ago! ‘Sam, would you mind putting this on?’ pleaded Chloe. Sam gave his girlfriend a funny look, what a weird request! Being the kind man he is, he would simply do anything for the love of his life, so he grabbed the costume and retreated to the bathroom.
‘Chocolates, chocolates, where can I find chocolates?’ Chloe thought furiously. She slipped her hands into her pockets mindlessly. Golly! There were some of her homemade chocolates! She quickly slid open the box, popping her sweets into the empty slots.
Sam marched into the room in his Halloween outfit. ‘H...h...how do I look?’ he whispered humorously. Chloe handed him the advent calendar. Without a second glance, Sam ripped into the first partition. Chloe watched in silence as Sam munched joyfully on her homemade piece. ‘Hmm, did Lindt change their formula?’ Sam murmured. Chloe’s face fell, he had noticed after all. Would Sam be mad with her for stealing his food? Would he decide to break up with her? ‘This taste even better than last year! The workers at Lindt deserve a pay rise!’ Sam went on, giving Chloe a wink. Chloe let out a huge sigh of relief. She looked thoughtfully at the mistletoe hang high up above the door, as Sam planted a nice warm kiss on her cheeks. Has she successfully fooled Sam? We will leave that to the reader to decide.
That was awesome great work! Chloe will be very glad to hear she didn't get caught! Thanks for doing this :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great story, well done !
Thanks! :)
Apologies for the lots of separate comments, dodging kids means I have to watch these in stages!
Tips for painting…
When painting coaches I use a fully gloss varnish (nice and shiny) for 2 layers, then apply the transfers and a final layer of satin varnish (I used windsor and Newton Acrylic Varnish) gives a nice shiny, satin finish but not too shiny
As for embossed lettering, I use citadel black, wipe the paint off on the side of the pot and use the side of the brush perfectly flat across the top, it will paint the top of detail and leave the background uncoloured
Hope this helps, great job on this, love the lining on the tender especially
One thing I recommend for the decals having bubbles beneath them (also known as "silvering" in scale modeling terms) is to use decal solutions like Micro Set/Sol and Humbrol Decalfix, what they do is softening the decals so it conforms better to more bumpy surfaces.
Maybe this will be a new way to do model railroading! Every one of us designing and printing our own models and sharing our creations with others ! (Yes until the 3D printers become even more cheaper for public avail).
Thanks Sam for showing how its done !
I still think the GER 552 is still pretty good. It just needs a tiny bit more tweaking; it's far from terrible.
Sam, your projects are amazing and you do yourself a disservice every time you compare your loco decoration to what a factory can produce.
Genuinely in awe of this amazing project. If I could design in CAD to even 10% of what you can do, I'd be pleased with myself.
Good idea on re-visiting Copper knob in resin. The 552 would be superb in resin too.
Well done again.
Fantastic model you've made here! You can justly feel proud of this one 🙂
You did a great job paining the locomotive Sam, don’t be so hard on yourself; I think you did great. Keep up the great content, and the great work you do for the model railroad community.
Saw the thumbnail, its just amazing! You've outdone yourself once again Sam! Really love that green livery. Keep making locomotive Sam, they're great!
An amazing job sam 👏 well done my friend. The loco is something to be very proud of . Good work sir 👏
Oh come on, this is a SERIOUSLY commendable effort for a home made loco! You should be VERY pleased with this! Plus, the learning you've derived while building this will serve VERY well for the future ... :)
I'm amazed again at how much you improve with every loco. The learning curve you go through is super steep. And I loved to see this new project.
This is a lovely loco, all of your locomotives are beautiful!!
One trick you can use with the transfer decals is to spray the model with a gloss varnish, apply the decal, then spray with whatever varnish you intend to use. They go down much nicer on gloss surfaces. It's really a beautiful piece of work though. Congratulations on a job well done! :)
I had no idea these engines were painted green! I always assumed they were always in lined black like most other LNWR engines I've seen pictures of.
This model looks like something I would see in a museum! Such an amazing scratchbuild. I would suggest using crushed coal instead of a 3D printed coal load for your next steam loco build. I want to see you make a diesel or electric locomotive/railcar in the near future.
Sam, you have been an inspiration in designing and building this model. I think you have been too hard on yourself with “Sam’s your model review”. What an a achievement! You not only the talk with your always consistent and considered model reviews, you clearly “walk the walk” in your understanding of what makes a great model locomotive that is also value for money.
I have to say, the 3D locos you make are absolutely marvelous. They go to the length of realism. Given you started out small with the manning wardle, and those freelance designs, you have certainly grown up in that sense. Well, we've focused on Old Copernob, Gladstone, GER 552, and Problem. Guess we need a fifth loco to join the team...
I think the finish has a faded weathered look to it. I think the results are excellent! You should be very proud of yourself. A very nice model that would look great on a period layout. I remember seeing scratch built locomotives many years ago, made out of necessity because they weren’t commercially available. Well done Sam!
Awesome vid Sam, looks fantastic! Again, so pleased I could help you! 😊
Thanks a lot mate, really appreciate it!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
It is a beautiful loco, but I think that one thing is missing- driver and firemen! Maybe you could print or buy the figures and place them on the footplate. This would make the loco less odd too look at while running.
Yeah that's true - they would make it look even better!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I deal with transfers too, the first transfers i made had some of those issues you had aswell, the flat matt probably made it worse, but what I do to avoid bubbles is let it dry for the night before putting on any varnish.
Also the tiny layers of the printer are visible, but they are so minuscule that you can hide them in the priming stage. I give my 3D printed trains a few thin layers of primer till those layers are completely gone before painting it the colors. It hides any trace of the production process.
All in all you can be very proud of your work! Keep it up! Also the wheel slip is not a bug that is a feature, I would be surprised if the real thing with this layout did not have wheel slip.
Gotta give yourself more credit. This looks amazing and you’ll definitely get better over time. Your custom locomotives and rolling stock need their own Sam’s Trains custom packaging
This is really impressive. Yes it's not a professional model but I believe that most of your viewers, myself included, would be more than satisfied if we were able to produce a model this good. The vents on the splashers particularly stand out for me.
Other modellers tips all say to apply a gloss or semi gloss finish before applying decals, a matt or satin varnish can then be used to dull down the gloss to the level you require. A little more time and effort but helps eliminate silvering and air bubbles.
9:20 a way to do embossed lettering that I've seen before is to print the piece the colour you want the lettering to be, then spray paint it, then sand the paint off
I have seen some toy restoration videos where the raised details were "stamped" with fine foam dipped in paint. Possibly dabbing with the the side of a small foam brush might work. An area for experimentation with paint thickness etc.
Brilliant Sam ,well done. Nice to see GER loco and Coppernob out on the line again too.If I may make a suggestion for the next one, how about a Scotland for inspiration? I know HR 103 is in the pipeline, but no RTR manufacturers have ever touched the Great North of Scotland, or the Glasgow and South Western. Both had a good selection of attractive engines. Take a look, you'll find something you like I'm sure.
Looks absolutely fantastic, Sam!!!! Great work! Looking forward to building a similar!!!!
Thank you so much - I hope you do! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I'll happily pay for the stl files!
Hi sam! It looks great! Can you do a video on the HO Flying Scotsman?
Outstanding Sam, loved watching this series. What is impressive to me is the engineering to get a large wheel running at the same speed as the smaller ones. Each model you've built has certainly pushed the boat out a little further. Think Copper Knob still my favourite. What's telling is you went from nothing to design, to prototype to build in 3 month, so why does it take so long for the big companies (2 years plus plus) to get their products out. If time is money I'm sure that adds to the end cost. Thanks from Aotearoa.
Gorgeous model. Resin printing has greatly improved the detail and resolution and now it looks like you're really getting close to professional models in terms of detail and finesse. I've been watching this project with an engineer's eye and I actually have a few ideas on how to improve things even further:
- You've probably already thought about it but I think it would be a good idea to use metal threads whenever possible, especially for frequently removed parts like the base keeper plate. Just create an opening with a nut cross-section from the other side (the requirement is that the other side must be accessible of course) and fit a nut into it using a semi-tight fit so that it doesn't fall out too easily. Square nuts are perfect for this if you don't mind looking for them specifically
- When I watched you fit pickups to this loco I had an idea. I remembered those spring loaded contacts that Dapol (I think it was Dapol?) used on one of their models. These are also called pogo pins and they're actually meant to be used as pcb connectors but clearly they also work as locomotive pickups. Some of them are around 3-4 mm of total height so with a little bit of imagination they should fit in a loco chassis as long as the driving mechanism is not in the way. They might be a little bit tricky to solder cause most of them are made for pcb surface mount (they don't have any soldering terminals) but I think some do have a short pin on the other end that would make the soldering easier. If you managed to get your hands on some of those that are small enough to fit inside the loco chassis I think it would greatly improve pick up reliability and spare you some wire bending. Not sure what the added cost would be cause that probably depends greatly on where you buy
- Sprung buffers? Lemme guess you're already working on those aren't you?
Well done Sam on the completion of the model. It obviously took a while with a lot of hard work and patience. As we say in Scotland, magic!👏😊
Wow!! That’s amazing! I would never have been able to pull something like that off!! I thought the unpainted version was good but this is off the scale good!! If I had to pick one of your trains from your collection to be mine then I’m picking that in a heartbeat. Watch out Hornby there’s a new legend in town!!
I absolutely adore this locomotive, it’s beautiful with its livery, and the 2-2-2 wheel base is just amazing.
Thank you so much, so glad you like it!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
this is your best one yet dude! I can't wait to see what obscure steam locomotive you'll bring to life next!
Thank you so much! I already have some plans :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Fantastic result. +1 for the Sharpie! Use then quite regularly around here - even on commercial kits. I'd love to see an update to "Old Copper Knob" on the Resin printer.
Congratulations Sam! The loco looks great and you should be very proud. A single application of satin varnish over flat paint won't do much to kill the flatness. I'd use two coats of gloss prior to application of the decals, then apply whatever final finish you want. Also, a decal softening solution in addition to the usual setting solution might help. For larger bubbles underneath a decal I've used a very sharp pin to get the air out, followed by more setting solution. You just have to be careful to make only the tiniest of holes and not tear the decal. My main problem with decals has always been messing about with them too much after they are on the surface. So getting them positioned well when sliding them off the backing is a key skill (with which I still struggle!). Again, you should be very proud of your accomplishment with this Problem Class. Cheers from Wisconsin! PS: I know you aren't a big fan of weathering on rolling stock, but weathering is an excellent way to cover up (or at least distract from) minor construction and decoration problems. 🙂
Fantastic job.
Democratising production like this is really good for the hobby because it’s long been at the mercy of corporations who see their customers as a sponge to extract all the money they can from, just because the key demographic is thought to have masses of disposable income.
Admittedly, it’s not for everyone, and the initial outlay for equipment and materials is quite steep, but I’d loved to see more people in this hobby attempt their own rolling stock and even engines.
Please carry on with this sideline on this channel!
Sorry Sam, but you are wrong about the locomotive name. It shouldn't be "Problem". More correctly it should be the Superb Class, because it looks absolutly superb!! I wish the mainstream manufacturers made Victorian locos. Yours is really stunning.
Outstanding work. You've come a long way with your resin printing, and frankly most of the things you point out in the video as being "issues" is pretty much just inherint side effects of resin printing. I'd say there just isn't much more you can do re: layer lines/ warping at this stage with where the tech is at, and imo its only noticable with a macro lens for most people's eyes, anyway.
In terms of the flat finish, there's a bit of a trick some scale modellers use which I recently discovered. Starting out with 1 or 2 layers of gloss varnish makes a great smooth surface for working with decals, plus it tends to offer better protection for the paint. Once you've done this and sorted out your decals, you can then at a mat varnish to bring it back to the finish you want with gentle thin layers (just make sure you do a deep clean of your airbrush before applying several clear coats. Any fleck of dry paint sittin gin the nozzle with spoil the effect).
This is mental! You're becoming better and better with Model making! if I could give you a idea, perhaps a diesel? like not expres but just a small little box diesel shunter, it would be a simple body so you could add more details along the body?
That's absolutely beautiful, Sam. I was racking my brain to see if I could think of what it reminded me of. Then it came to me: Lord Belborough's engine that he drives in the classic stop-motion children's show, 'Chigley'. It's also where the catchy, and oft parodied Song 'Time Flies By, When You're The Driver Of A Train' comes from.
Sorry.
To apply decals without bubbles, Sam, I'd recommend the use of some decal setting solution. I've used 'Micro Set, and Micro Sol' (#notspon) for Possibly 30+ years now. If you do use them, please read the instructions, and obey them to the letter. You'll have no problems if you do. If I still had hair, I'd have pulled it all out in frustration, at the number of modellers on UA-cam who use them incorrectly. Decals work best on a gloss surface, and when they are set, can be given a light spray of matt or satin clear coat to fix them permanently, and allow you to weather over the top of them, if you wish.
We used to call this scratch building back in the day and you're smashing it! Top job slipper lad.
It looks pretty damn good for being home made, so congratulations are in order! If you're looking for a good satin varnish though, I can strongly recommend the VMS stuff, sprays well with or without thinner but I would add some thinner for sure if your air brush needle/nozzle is smaller than 0.5mm. normal hairy brush application still works a treat though!
Fabulous Job, it looks really good and a very well built chassis and mechanism too. We've gone on for years about having details like daylight under the boiler, but daylight through the boiler? You're leading the industry Sam!🤣😂🤣
Sam, for the decals, you should use waterslide transfers on a gloss finish. That way, the transfers stick better. The matte varnish has to be done after all thats done. I will try this myself as well, since I heard about this before. I hope this helps!
Lovely yet again sam you should be very proud of your self watching these three locos you built yourself running around is a joy and from a distance you can't tell the difference 👍
You should be very proud. That looks excellent. I think you've underrated it. Superb job!
I think Mike Sharman will be looking down with a smile on his face! A great model.
Yes... He was a great fan of the early (Era 1) locomotives...
Wow. WOW. This model is genuinely brilliant!!
I can sense Accurascale shivering in their seats...
It's so very good looking. Your skill shows through. I love the look of these single wheel flyers, they look like they are going fast just standing still. 🏆
If you still want to add things to that list of projects, how about trying to make print in place rolling stock? Something like a flat wagon that you take from the build plate, remove any supports, give the wheels a turn to check that they rotate freely and put it straight on the tracks. Bonus points if it can be printed in multiple colours.
Sam I think it's your best one yet, luv it! Of course I love all the stuff you have done so far. Robert from the states.🤗
Absolutely brilliant, love it I couldn’t fault you keep going
Sam, you are completely leading the way. This is incredible.
Sam it looks FANTASTIC, i can't believe you made it so well, it looks so good! So happy that you are doing these locomotives!
Great job! Your skills are really developing and the move to resin is paying off big time - this is your best loco yet, and a fantastic prototype to boot! You can be justifiably proud of this model.
More pre-grouping please!
Very nice job indeed! Congratulations! I also start designing my own locomotives in 3D, I dond't own a 3D printer but a friend of mine does so...
Regarding the transfers, the problem is that all models are printed in layers and this is visible in your macro shots, so the transfer does not have a plane surface to stick to, that is why you have silvering in your decals. In order to avoid this you must prep your surface before painting using primer and sanding after. I heard that using acetone vapors (puting some acetone in a small jar and the model under a glass jar and keeping them for 1-2 hours) works for filament printers, I don't know about resin ones but you can test this. It will smoothen the printer layers.
Keep up the good job!
Wow! What a great job! Well done! Really fun to watch!
Always onwards and upwards Sam, well done. i think this is a lovely loco and of course when you highlight them i can see there are minor imperfections, but is that avoidable I wonder. well done again and thanks for this channel, always worrth a look peter
Amazing work as usual Sam, the detail is an impressive step up and I am interested to see you develop skills to more efficiently build models like this in the future. Also, a technique commonly found in gunpla modelling is something we use to paint raised lining sections, and is called a "Reverse wash" technique. I use this to paint brass nameplates, as well as raised details with recessed areas you can't access with a brush.
Basically you paint the colour of the recessed area first, and then paint the colour of raised area second, and wipe it away with the appropriate thinner. Something to keep in mind here is that this technique relies on using two different types of paint and using a "stronger" paint for the undercoat as to not wipe it away at the same time as the raised coat.
Another thing you may consider is buying a printer capable of printing waterslide decals, in the gunpla world, people use photoshop to create their own decals and print them on blank decal paper to get the desired effect, I am unsure as to the exact details of the process but I know it is possible to print your own waterslide decals relatively easily.
Train art - it’s an engineering BEAUTY. Thanks for sharing this
Fantastic Sam. Well done. If you want to glaze the windows have you heard of Kristal Klear? Its used my plastic kit modelllers for glazing airliner windows etc. It's basically pva glue that dries clear. Pop a drop on a cocktail stick and drag it round the inside of the hole and gently remive the stick to leave a film over the hole and let ut dry. Only goid for small aparures though.
At only your fifth loco model, you've done amazingly well,Sam. If you could crack the decorating side and the sprung buffers, you'd nail it!
Seeing three different locos you made yourself running along the line really is heartwarming. You're a right little Awdry now, aren't ya? I think all you need to give a try at now is kitbashing.
Thank you so much - haha I suppose so!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Apply transfers onto a gloss surface then when dry use the satin varnish to set the final look. Always use micro sol and micro set as well.
It’s a good effort and performs fairly well, it’ll be interesting to see how the resin lasts for the moving parts. To take things further you could use some of the many available detail parts such as hand rails, valves and whistles etc, yes they will cost a bit more but still be less than a RTR loco. The metal parts will add a bit if finesse to the finished model.
Blown away! You are making something most of us can only dream, and improving each time. Keep it up - loving these videos :)
this does look amazing i wonder will you be making the stl files available in someway so that people can try to make there own
Well done Sam! As you asked, one thing I notice you can address is the support tabs left between the wheel spokes can be trimmed up with an Exacto or hobby knife. Also some globs of plastic here and the on the body could be sanded down to give a smooth finish. Yeah, a little generous but hey, good job!
Great job sam , the attempt is 5 star....It seems like you were pulling your punches.😁
Simply amazing work mate! These locomotive are getting better and better. Can’t wait to see the next one
That is so much more than just "okay".
It is absolutely GORGEOUS, even larger-than-life-size on my monitor.
I appreciate your honesty in scoring this as you would any commercial product, but the score seems low to me.
Jason Shron, owner of Rapido Trains, had a modest start (but high standards, and a delightful and righteous madness) - and look what he has achieved today. There is nothing holding you back from greatness.
The only very minor but important thing I can note is the fact that when you look through the driving wheel, you can see the opposite driving wheel through the non-existent boiler. A bit ironic really because most commercial locos some years ago were criticised for an inability to see daylight UNDER the boiler!
Nonetheless, a brilliant model, Sam. At 81, my modelling days are coming to a close. Yours are burgeoning wonderfully!
Regarding the bubbles under the decals/tampos (sp?): spray a semigloss clearcoat over the model. It will provide a good surface for it to adhere to. Apple and coat the decal with Micro-sol (or the equivalent) to get a painted on look.Then spray another layer of clearcoat over the model to protect the decals.
I love these project vids, gives me some hope for me as most the models I want I will have to 3D print the body’s and some of the chassis
It’s wonderfully surreal to see such an expertly made model from 3d printing and a person who is treated and talked about like someone who isn’t a “true” modeller. Go on Sam! Show them what you can do!
haha you're very kind! Imagine what a "real" modeller could do!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains as someone waiting for a milling machine (bca jig borer) to be able to build models without the personal challenge of cad(I still hate cad after years of knowing it), it’s inspiring you can do without such utilities! Cheers! You deserve it!
Impressive! I doff my hat and salute your modeling skills and patience. Each of your projects has been better than the last. The learning process has got to be exciting!