househansa Early this summer I bought a 1988, BMW E34 M20B20, it had stood 10 years, changed all fluids, some wear parts and rust and it's alive, also have a Ford Granada Mk2s2 that had stood 16 years and that I used as a daily for a longer time period. Old simpler cars last like new cars can't :)
Matt, great progress! It's worth considering, in addition to comments below, that the electronic systems may be quite voltage dependant. Without an alternator, system voltage would quickly drop to 12v or less under load, and may have caused the engine to die. A good battery can still crank a car even with lowered voltage. After you'd left it a while, the battery would have perked up a bit which may have allowed the 2nd brief run. I don't know old Mercedes' but I have experienced this in the past.
With you on that I have experience with that on a rover aa came new alternator of it went better to set it up as it should be before chasing other problems 👍
I second that, I have a Audi 80 2.3E with KE-Jetronic. The accumulator has a vent, if fuel is coming out of it, its stuffed. On my car, its in the tank, on yours I'll take a guess that its on the outside. Its it leaking, you'll smell it.
I think you're right. He should check the voltage regulator in the alternator, mine was absolutely dead in my 230ce, and the engine start was rought. Now with a new one, it starts perfectely ! All thanks to Mercedes source !
When pouring from a fuel can turn the can on its side it will prevent the fuel from glugging out, remember how one used to pour oil from those old gallon tin oil cans, with the cap in one corner, the technique was to have it on the top edge when pouring.
The Kjetronic system is ‘simple’ but a pain the arse when 1 or more parts are not playing together. My Porsche 924 needed a warm up pressure regulator, and a fuel filter, also a check valve replacement in the fuel pump because of vapour lock when the engine was warm.... started always when cold, but had to pull and pull and pull when the engine was warmed up.
furiousdriving I’d certainly check the warm up pressure regulator located on the back of the engine normally, and get a fuel injector quantity check on each injector to check spray pattern and delivery fuel quantity per cylinder.
Sounded as if it is running with a missing cylinder, so might be worth checking the HT leads and plugs. Use some Emery cloth or wire wool and clean the HT connections.
Congratulations! I believe it just needed time to prime the fuel system. I do hope you get it running again. And good luck with the Rover Cabriolet as well!
Feeling very happy for you sir I have also done my w123 project and faced alot difficulties in order to start the car and it starts after 2 years of working
It is the fuel pump relay. The size of a cigarette box Located underneath the glove box Because when you turn the key, there was no fuel pump whirling noise
A few years ago I bought a new fuel accumulator for a W201 to try and resolve a starting problem and unfortunately it didn't work. It was a bit cheaper through the dealer than some online stores, but still expensive, so maybe worth checking around? After more reading at the time I seem to remember there are some things you can do to test if it's at fault. In the end the problem turned out to be the cold start valve. Great to see the W123 again!
Wow 😮 brilliant it is alive , last time I was quite frustrated that it didn’t start with all your efforts and Andy’s too , now just come across ur channel and it’s a very happy day for me that the w123 works 👍👍👍👍👍Brilliant stuff Good luck mate
I was sooo pleased to hear it come back to life - and then frustrated when it wouldn't start again. Roller coaster of emotions in those few minutes. Looking forward to more videos on this teutonic steed.
Hi Matt, thanks again for the measurements for my 740. Not sure if this is your problem but if you haven't actually pulled your fuel tank out and flushed it I would recommend you do. The W123 has an in tank strainer. If your tank is as full of crud as my 740 was which it will be after sitting so long, as the fuel pump sucks from the tank, the rusty sludge accumulates on the screen and restricts the flow. With K-Jetronic requiring certain pressures to operate properly, it will cut out. After the engine stops again, after a while, the sludge dilutes back in to the fueland falls away from the screen allowing the engine to run briefly. The symptoms you're having seem to fit. Could make a video of rust removal by electrolysis? It's cheap, effective, and the most fun you can have with a battery charger.
@@furiousdriving Waiting for the weekend. The garage is right under the kids bedrooms so I can't play with it too much during the week. Mine was pumping clean fuel as the in tank strainer and filter were catching the muck but becoming clogged. I'd even drained the tank and put fresh fuel in. Yours has a strainer in the tank and two filters along the way to the engine. How accessible is your fuel sender to remove and shine a torch in? There's a guy Colin here in Australia if you look him up www.k-jetspecialists.biz. He has some tests you can run listed on his website and supplies rebuild kits. He's very helpful. But he swears the most important test is volume. Needs to be pumping 1 litre in 30 seconds. Mine was but the pressure was dropping along the way. It sounded lovely when it did fire up briefly so that was encouraging.
Hurray! Handel’s Hallelujah comes to mind. Sorry to hear about Andy. Btw, Pierre Hedary, a old school Classic Mercedes mechanic talked in one of his videos about the fuel accumulator as a common cause to starting problems.
It was this car that got me subscribed to your channel. I'm always pleased when a new furious driving video appears. I'm genuinely made up for you seeing it start up, looks like you needed a dose of fresh motivation with the 'ol Benz. Nice one 👍
Hi Matt. Don't waste money on an accumulator. They only allow instant starting by maintaining fuel line pressure. Even a duff one will only give symptoms of an extra few seconds cranking. My money is on the fuel pump relay (may be pink or purple) They listen for ignition pulses (same feed for tacho possibly) and only activate the relay when pulsing. Its safety as in a crash engine stops - pulses stop - fuel pump relay turns off fuel pump. It can be bridged like any other relay for testing. i don't know it's location on your merc, my experience comes form kjet on the xr3i
I had thought that before, tried to bridge with no joy and had it tested by an electronics chap at a computor repair place and it checks out as all good
@@furiousdriving Ah good stuff Matt. They are buggers to work with with it all being pressures and flows that need measuring. A sticky air flap (oh err) on the air metering unit can cause issues but I think you have already checked that. They can be miss aligned as well and get stuck on the wall of unit which jams them into place - without flap movement no fuel is allowed to the injectors as you know. Use a few feeler gauges and slacken the centre nut to realign if needed. I wonder if a reliable spark is being achieved as well. In that era the dizzy had what was called an ign amplifier strapped to it - these often failed but more when they were hot so does not quite fit this example.. mmm
A neighbour once had a car that used to have an intermittent starting problem, it was a total pain in the arse. It was put in the barn to rot as revenge. Every now and again the neighbour went back to hack pieces off it and cut wires as revenge when the memory of the bloody thing gave him cold sweats....... He never bought another merc. When eventually healed and with the merc no longer living rent-free in his head the owner sold it and moved on with his shattered life. Fast forward many moons and the car now lives rent-free in the minds of many stranded on the third rock from the sun....... It still has that self, same, intermittent, starting problem......... Seriously, glad it fires up, hope it runs and drives and I know of a local barn if the need arises.......
If the engine got warm before it wouldn't start, then it could well be the accumulator which is there mainly to keep the pressure in the system to facilitate hot starting. However, definitely worth checking you have the non-return valve in place (usually on the outlet from the fuel pump), which also helps keep pressure in the system. Regarding the sudden ability to cold start, it could be that you have an intermittent fault with the thermo-time switch that operates the cold start valve. I had this recently on my Audi Coupe GT which also has K-jetronic. I took out the thermo-time switch, cleaned all the contacts and it has been starting quickly every time since.
Fantastic news that it started! I reckon there is some decomposition or broken wires in the engine bay loom - Perhaps inadvertently you disturbed something in the in the first instance to regain the supply power in the injection system - which afterwards was disturbed again back to non power when you fitted the alternator and filled up the coolant. I know the later 124s are known for this..but it's not unknown on 123s either. The engine sounds as sweet as a nut 😃
I seem to recall that there is a mesh filter in the tank that you can remove after disconnecting the outlet pipe then unscrewing the filter from inside the outlet hole. I think that makes sense? It maybe that the fuel you poured in stirred up some junk on the bottom of the tank? Good to hear it running, sounded pretty good too.
Yes, there is a Fuel Tank Screen Strainer at Bottom of Fuel Tank I've replaced these before mostly on MB W123's. Make sure if you get the replacement part get it with a new O-ring as well. Just think if no one has done this replacement since day 1 how nasty it might look now. At minimum take it out and clean it off with the proper spirits and a new O-ring.
The vacuum pipes your headlight height adjustment I assume you know? Last nearly run it sounded down a cylinder? That was seriously good when she lit up! You swore!!
Mine once refused to start and it was as simple as the king lead! Now mine was a carbed 2 litre it was inside a black sleeve bolted to the passenger wing. Inside it had for know reason came slightly away. Could just be ambient temperature that allows a decent spark.
So smooth. Maybe get the Rover key, lock, unlock, lock again, press the button 5 times, dance a jig, turn the key. Never fails. PS. Volvo tshirt here this morning. Way way better than the photos on Red Bubble. W123, North African taxi drivers accept nothing less. Invincible.
Matt great to hear it running, the 230 is very good engine will cruise happly at motorway speeds no problem. My S124 is smooth quick and quiet better after a few short miles as it does not take long to get upto temperature when it runs more smoothly and can easily be used everyday, looking forward to first drive!
Excellent! It lives! The running on three near the end of the vid could be rich-cut, where the metering unit is too free moving and opens too wide when the throttle is opened. Or it could be that you knocked a lead loose! Great to see it going! My W123 coupe is still languishing in my garage! Cheers from NZ. James.
Well, that was unexpected. The engine sounds healthy but it seems to be running very lean, so I still think it's something to do with the cold start system not functioning... Unfortunately, when I had to replace the cold start relay, as Merc called it, on my 190E, it was rather expensive at over £200, but that was because the only place I could get it was from a main stealer. I'd suggest having a read up on the cold start system for likely candidates. That would also match up with having no success at all during the winter, in colder temperatures, but it managing to chug into life in the summer... Overall, though, that's definitely a BIG win...
Crank it over and check its sparking, then pull a plug and see if its wet or not. Check the fuel pump is priming and make sure it has the correct fuel pressure, the metering arm relies on correct fuel pressure to give the correct mixture. Low fuel pressure will give a rich running mixture as the metering arm will travel further without the correct fuel pressure pressing against it. The warm up regulator is also a common suspect.
Hi FD I used to have an old Volvo with fuel starvation issues. Turned out to be nothing more than a blocked fuel breather pipe from the fuel tank. Try running it with the fuel filler cap off so the pressure is ambient and there's no back pressure against the fuel pump?
Had a kink in a fuel pipe and car would cut out randomly or not start.I put in 3 fuel pumps before I discovered the crease in the pipeline.i was so mad one day, I seriously was tempted to burn it at the side of the road. New bit of pipe and all was well. Until one day an engine mount snapped and the engine dropped to the road and got lodged under the car. Scrap yard took it for free...
The headlight/bumper design was very clever too because it has the outline of an older style headlight on the wing, which meant Rover could use the same design to facelift the 25 and 45
my grandad owns one and its been sitting in a garage for 10 years or more, planning to fix it and drive it, do you have any recommendation on what to check? also, its a manual.
The "economy" gauge (vacuum) should be to the far "left", this means you do not have sufficient vacuum registering at the intake manifold. Check for vacuum leaks, the car will run even better. Good luck!
If I remember correctly. Lh jetronic is very picky on fuel pressure. When engine first started it was so lean at first. If fuel pump is not replaced I would kick it with your feet or tap it with small hammer and then immediately start the engine. W124 does have fuel pressure build up when key is first turned on. I dont know about W123 about this. One time I had to start my volvo from the engine bay by turning the engine with the starter and pushing the metering plate by finger. Did not look what was wrong with it. I guess it was something to do with the control fuel pressures.
"I don't know why it works now" - as a 13+ year owner of the same mercedes from 1998, I've uttered that exact phrase about a countless things on my car. "check engine electronics" - lol, ok. Literally had this message pop up every day for over a year, then one day disappeared for a few months. Then arose, making up for lost time, these past couple of weeks. It could be fine tomorrow
The Kjet systems are very susceptible to incorrect fuel pressures and are vital that they are correct. Initially when it fired up it was very lean (hence the spit back through the metering flap). I would start by bridging the relay to the fuel pumps (intank lift pump and high pressure pump) and trying it. That would also rule out the accumulator also as all its designed to do is hold a constant fuel pressure for a extended period of time.
You can also test the injectors by bridging out the relay, removing all 4 injectors with the lines still connected and press down the metering flap. DO NOT press down the metering flap with the injectors still installed into the head and the fuel pump relay bridged. This will easily fill the cylinders with enough fuel to hydrolock it!
Well done matt. Can't you try the breakers I think all the k tronic systems were the same bosch units at the back audis bmw mercs vws ford's. Have you checked the fuel pressure? You can drop some laughing gas down the plunger to rule out electrical problems, but I thought the compensator was like an expansion vessel and only kept pressure in the line. Ie when the fuel pump presurises the system it pushes the diaphram in the compensate on a spring and maintains fuel pressure on initial start up. I would check filter and pump first see what pressure you have a fuel distributer
That was brilliant and very mysterious Matt. Nice to hear the Mercedes burst into life though. Now go and grab an ice-cream from that van. You deserve it.
Maybe the old Merc was fed up with being stuck under lockdown, so it decided to put a bit of effort into running. Joking apart, that sounds like quite a happy motor. Can't wait to see it being driven.
I don't think the fuel accumulator is the problem with the intermittent starting. I think the mixture adjustment is off. I think it's running too lean and once the cold start enrichment phase goes off it's not getting enough fuel. It may need a turn "In" of the screw on the air flap beside the fuel metering unit. There is also a good chance of a vacuum leak somewhere considering the age of the rubber parts on the injection system. Check the hoses which go to and from the idle air valve and also the boot under the air metering unit.
Hi! I'm trying to get my old Benz fixed just like you are with yours, I've changed already many parts and managed to get it moving, but it's still very hard to get it turned on when it's cold. I'm thinking one problem might be the fuel tank being very rusty and the fuel tank's screen being badly clogged up. I've read it's a common problem on older Benzs which have been sitting for a long without ever being driven. I still have not changed the fuel pressure accumulator, the one beside the fuel pump and fuel filter. What do you think about it?
Andy's ghost came and fixed it during lockdown.
Haahhaha funny!
Any car sitting for 16 years: DEAD.
Mercedes: Hibernating.
househansa Early this summer I bought a 1988, BMW E34 M20B20, it had stood 10 years, changed all fluids, some wear parts and rust and it's alive, also have a Ford Granada Mk2s2 that had stood 16 years and that I used as a daily for a longer time period. Old simpler cars last like new cars can't :)
I realize I'm kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good website to stream new tv shows online ?
With the luck you’re having, I’d buy a lottery ticket this week !
I did buy one earlier!
Matt, great progress! It's worth considering, in addition to comments below, that the electronic systems may be quite voltage dependant. Without an alternator, system voltage would quickly drop to 12v or less under load, and may have caused the engine to die. A good battery can still crank a car even with lowered voltage. After you'd left it a while, the battery would have perked up a bit which may have allowed the 2nd brief run. I don't know old Mercedes' but I have experienced this in the past.
With you on that I have experience with that on a rover aa came new alternator of it went better to set it up as it should be before chasing other problems 👍
I second that, I have a Audi 80 2.3E with KE-Jetronic. The accumulator has a vent, if fuel is coming out of it, its stuffed.
On my car, its in the tank, on yours I'll take a guess that its on the outside. Its it leaking, you'll smell it.
I think you're right. He should check the voltage regulator in the alternator, mine was absolutely dead in my 230ce, and the engine start was rought. Now with a new one, it starts perfectely ! All thanks to Mercedes source !
When pouring from a fuel can turn the can on its side it will prevent the fuel from glugging out, remember how one used to pour oil from those old gallon tin oil cans, with the cap in one corner, the technique was to have it on the top edge when pouring.
Its less the plug than the dribble thats a problem from these things
@@furiousdriving Pouring with the can on its side dribbles are less likely as it will be more level.
Same applies to tetrapak milk cartons 👍
@@furiousdriving The can comes with a spout, why not use it?
The Kjetronic system is ‘simple’ but a pain the arse when 1 or more parts are not playing together. My Porsche 924 needed a warm up pressure regulator, and a fuel filter, also a check valve replacement in the fuel pump because of vapour lock when the engine was warm.... started always when cold, but had to pull and pull and pull when the engine was warmed up.
Ive changed or had apart damn near everything! Im mystified!
furiousdriving I’d certainly check the warm up pressure regulator located on the back of the engine normally, and get a fuel injector quantity check on each injector to check spray pattern and delivery fuel quantity per cylinder.
I literally cheered out loud when she came to life! Loving your videos from St Louis, Missouri, USA 👍
omg i almost dropped my coffee in shock well done
Sounded as if it is running with a missing cylinder, so might be worth checking the HT leads and plugs. Use some Emery cloth or wire wool and clean the HT connections.
It was definitely on all 4 at first but only 3 the last time. Its ha new plugs (probably want a clean again) Ill treat it to new HTs
Priceless,.....to see your face when that started. Matt really pleased to see it running.
Congratulations! I believe it just needed time to prime the fuel system.
I do hope you get it running again. And good luck with the Rover Cabriolet as well!
Sounded so sweet on the start up, I defo think Andy was there in spirit.
Feeling very happy for you sir
I have also done my w123 project and faced alot difficulties in order to start the car and it starts after 2 years of working
What was the secret to make it work?
It is the fuel pump relay. The size of a cigarette box
Located underneath the glove box
Because when you turn the key, there was no fuel pump whirling noise
no, I had that out and tested. I dont think the mic picks it up as its close to me
That's a proper Frankenstein moment. It's aliiiiive, it's aliiiiiive
A few years ago I bought a new fuel accumulator for a W201 to try and resolve a starting problem and unfortunately it didn't work. It was a bit cheaper through the dealer than some online stores, but still expensive, so maybe worth checking around? After more reading at the time I seem to remember there are some things you can do to test if it's at fault. In the end the problem turned out to be the cold start valve. Great to see the W123 again!
That's old cars for you Matt. They have a life and a personality of their own.... plus it's a Merc, hewned out of granite. Great vid mate..
Fabulous it started, sorry to hear that Andy passed away, I enjoyed that video of you both trying to get it started
Wow 😮 brilliant it is alive , last time I was quite frustrated that it didn’t start with all your efforts and Andy’s too , now just come across ur channel and it’s a very happy day for me that the w123 works 👍👍👍👍👍Brilliant stuff Good luck mate
I say with my SD1 “just because it doesn’t work, doesn’t mean it’s broken!’. I wouldn’t have thought that would apply to a Merc though!
I was sooo pleased to hear it come back to life - and then frustrated when it wouldn't start again. Roller coaster of emotions in those few minutes. Looking forward to more videos on this teutonic steed.
Hi Matt, thanks again for the measurements for my 740. Not sure if this is your problem but if you haven't actually pulled your fuel tank out and flushed it I would recommend you do. The W123 has an in tank strainer. If your tank is as full of crud as my 740 was which it will be after sitting so long, as the fuel pump sucks from the tank, the rusty sludge accumulates on the screen and restricts the flow. With K-Jetronic requiring certain pressures to operate properly, it will cut out. After the engine stops again, after a while, the sludge dilutes back in to the fueland falls away from the screen allowing the engine to run briefly. The symptoms you're having seem to fit. Could make a video of rust removal by electrolysis? It's cheap, effective, and the most fun you can have with a battery charger.
No worries, does it work now? Its been pumping clean fuel but it could do with a tank drain
@@furiousdriving Waiting for the weekend. The garage is right under the kids bedrooms so I can't play with it too much during the week. Mine was pumping clean fuel as the in tank strainer and filter were catching the muck but becoming clogged. I'd even drained the tank and put fresh fuel in. Yours has a strainer in the tank and two filters along the way to the engine. How accessible is your fuel sender to remove and shine a torch in? There's a guy Colin here in Australia if you look him up www.k-jetspecialists.biz. He has some tests you can run listed on his website and supplies rebuild kits. He's very helpful. But he swears the most important test is volume. Needs to be pumping 1 litre in 30 seconds. Mine was but the pressure was dropping along the way. It sounded lovely when it did fire up briefly so that was encouraging.
Omg you spent so long now it runs brilliant
inexplicable...the way you fought with that fuel injector system over many months and suddenly it just starts! It's magic.
Well done.
I have literally no idea why it works...
I'd already written it off, so stunned....well done for keeping the faith.
I knew it would work after it fired on easy start
Ah the sound of a cranking engine - the dawn chorus growing up in the 70's & 80's!
Thats awesome mate! Its got sick of not running and decides to start for you 😃 sounds good! Love older cars and drive a 97 civic myself 👍
Oh, Mr Richardson! Progress at last. I hope that you will enjoy driving some more tasty V6s treats in Hampshire next week.
I hope so!
Hurray! Handel’s Hallelujah comes to mind. Sorry to hear about Andy. Btw, Pierre Hedary, a old school Classic Mercedes mechanic talked in one of his videos about the fuel accumulator as a common cause to starting problems.
Thats getting changed next
It was this car that got me subscribed to your channel. I'm always pleased when a new furious driving video appears. I'm genuinely made up for you seeing it start up, looks like you needed a dose of fresh motivation with the 'ol Benz. Nice one 👍
Amazing ! Just got my second w123 ... Last one yesterday
Lovely video. Brought a tear to my eye when you mentioned Andy. RIP.
thankyou thankyou thanks Andy - looking forward to you taking her for a spin
You and me both!
Hi Matt. Don't waste money on an accumulator. They only allow instant starting by maintaining fuel line pressure. Even a duff one will only give symptoms of an extra few seconds cranking. My money is on the fuel pump relay (may be pink or purple) They listen for ignition pulses (same feed for tacho possibly) and only activate the relay when pulsing. Its safety as in a crash engine stops - pulses stop - fuel pump relay turns off fuel pump. It can be bridged like any other relay for testing. i don't know it's location on your merc, my experience comes form kjet on the xr3i
I had thought that before, tried to bridge with no joy and had it tested by an electronics chap at a computor repair place and it checks out as all good
@@furiousdriving Ah good stuff Matt. They are buggers to work with with it all being pressures and flows that need measuring. A sticky air flap (oh err) on the air metering unit can cause issues but I think you have already checked that. They can be miss aligned as well and get stuck on the wall of unit which jams them into place - without flap movement no fuel is allowed to the injectors as you know. Use a few feeler gauges and slacken the centre nut to realign if needed. I wonder if a reliable spark is being achieved as well. In that era the dizzy had what was called an ign amplifier strapped to it - these often failed but more when they were hot so does not quite fit this example.. mmm
I’m so happy that this started for you! I wonder if it’s something to do with the warmer weather?
I love your tinkering/maintenance/restoration videos !
Exciting stuff, could see how pleased you were after all this time.
A neighbour once had a car that used to have an intermittent starting problem, it was a total pain in the arse. It was put in the barn to rot as revenge. Every now and again the neighbour went back to hack pieces off it and cut wires as revenge when the memory of the bloody thing gave him cold sweats....... He never bought another merc. When eventually healed and with the merc no longer living rent-free in his head the owner sold it and moved on with his shattered life. Fast forward many moons and the car now lives rent-free in the minds of many stranded on the third rock from the sun....... It still has that self, same, intermittent, starting problem......... Seriously, glad it fires up, hope it runs and drives and I know of a local barn if the need arises.......
Oh gosh - that is ace, I’m so happy for you - it sounds great!
If the engine got warm before it wouldn't start, then it could well be the accumulator which is there mainly to keep the pressure in the system to facilitate hot starting. However, definitely worth checking you have the non-return valve in place (usually on the outlet from the fuel pump), which also helps keep pressure in the system. Regarding the sudden ability to cold start, it could be that you have an intermittent fault with the thermo-time switch that operates the cold start valve. I had this recently on my Audi Coupe GT which also has K-jetronic. I took out the thermo-time switch, cleaned all the contacts and it has been starting quickly every time since.
its going to be something K Jet related..
Spirit of Andy 👍 I like to think so
Fantastic news that it started! I reckon there is some decomposition or broken wires in the engine bay loom - Perhaps inadvertently you disturbed something in the in the first instance to regain the supply power in the injection system - which afterwards was disturbed again back to non power when you fitted the alternator and filled up the coolant. I know the later 124s are known for this..but it's not unknown on 123s either. The engine sounds as sweet as a nut 😃
RIP Andy.... you are living in this car :)
I seem to recall that there is a mesh filter in the tank that you can remove after disconnecting the outlet pipe then unscrewing the filter from inside the outlet hole. I think that makes sense? It maybe that the fuel you poured in stirred up some junk on the bottom of the tank? Good to hear it running, sounded pretty good too.
Yes, you need a special giant spanner thing to do it, its possible it disturbed a blockage although its been pumping clean fuel for a long time
Yes, there is a Fuel Tank Screen Strainer at Bottom of Fuel Tank I've replaced these before mostly on MB W123's. Make sure if you get the replacement part get it with a new O-ring as well. Just think if no one has done this replacement since day 1 how nasty it might look now. At minimum take it out and clean it off with the proper spirits and a new O-ring.
The vacuum pipes your headlight height adjustment I assume you know? Last nearly run it sounded down a cylinder? That was seriously good when she lit up! You swore!!
Have you seen Mercedes source on here? Mans a bloody merclopedia!
Yes, I thought the vac was for levelling. I wonder if it has a fouled plug, it was off on the last run
And yes, Kent is brilliant, Ive learnt alot from him
Mine once refused to start and it was as simple as the king lead! Now mine was a carbed 2 litre it was inside a black sleeve bolted to the passenger wing. Inside it had for know reason came slightly away. Could just be ambient temperature that allows a decent spark.
I saw it startup from 20 metres away, the beast really is alive. A wonderful day.
And the look of shock/surprise on your face!
@@furiousdriving Suprise and joy. You know I love those old Mercedes. Lovely design. You need to get it running and rent it out.
@@golders99 To you I assume? lol!
If you like it can live on your drive and you can see it all the time ;-)
@@furiousdriving lol. Yes I would rent the Merc and the Volvo all day long. I get envy looking at these old beasts.
So smooth. Maybe get the Rover key, lock, unlock, lock again, press the button 5 times, dance a jig, turn the key. Never fails.
PS. Volvo tshirt here this morning. Way way better than the photos on Red Bubble. W123, North African taxi drivers accept nothing less. Invincible.
Or fit a new ECU, also works!
Glad yo ulike the Volvo T, I love mine
Matt great to hear it running, the 230 is very good engine will cruise happly at motorway speeds no problem. My S124 is smooth quick and quiet better after a few short miles as it does not take long to get upto temperature when it runs more smoothly and can easily be used everyday, looking forward to first drive!
Maybe the chickens that live under the bonnet shifted thus allowing engine workage!
I did not expect that to happen without at least some tweaking first! I nearly chocked on my tea!
Neither did I, it was just a last minute bit of filling for the video to turn the key! If I wasnt filming Id not have bothered
furiousdriving well worth it in the end, great job Matt! 👍🏻
Awesome stuff!!!! I can’t wait to see more on the lovely old barge!! Great video as always!!
Turn the petrol can on it's side when pouring , it will stop it sloshing everywhere :)
That is so bizarre! Absolutely brilliant we share your joy!
I wish I knew what had changed!
Great to see this car finally running!
Congrats Matt! Brilliant result after all your patientce
Excellent! It lives! The running on three near the end of the vid could be rich-cut, where the metering unit is too free moving and opens too wide when the throttle is opened. Or it could be that you knocked a lead loose! Great to see it going! My W123 coupe is still languishing in my garage! Cheers from NZ. James.
I wondered if it fouled a plug after so many non starts, but there are lots of things to investigate now I know the injection DOES work!
How satisfying must that feel! Great to hear the engine come to life after that period of time. Whenever it comes, the first drive would be epic!
It was going to be up the drive when it died...
Wow! I wonder what it could be. I am so pleased the engine did/can start and run, sort of, when it wants too!
Nice. I definitely think best Merc of all time. Bullet proof and wonderful styling
Well, that was unexpected. The engine sounds healthy but it seems to be running very lean, so I still think it's something to do with the cold start system not functioning...
Unfortunately, when I had to replace the cold start relay, as Merc called it, on my 190E, it was rather expensive at over £200, but that was because the only place I could get it was from a main stealer. I'd suggest having a read up on the cold start system for likely candidates. That would also match up with having no success at all during the winter, in colder temperatures, but it managing to chug into life in the summer...
Overall, though, that's definitely a BIG win...
Crank it over and check its sparking, then pull a plug and see if its wet or not. Check the fuel pump is priming and make sure it has the correct fuel pressure, the metering arm relies on correct fuel pressure to give the correct mixture. Low fuel pressure will give a rich running mixture as the metering arm will travel further without the correct fuel pressure pressing against it. The warm up regulator is also a common suspect.
Hi FD
I used to have an old Volvo with fuel starvation issues. Turned out to be nothing more than a blocked fuel breather pipe from the fuel tank.
Try running it with the fuel filler cap off so the pressure is ambient and there's no back pressure against the fuel pump?
thanks Ill try that
Had a kink in a fuel pipe and car would cut out randomly or not start.I put in 3 fuel pumps before I discovered the crease in the pipeline.i was so mad one day, I seriously was tempted to burn it at the side of the road. New bit of pipe and all was well. Until one day an engine mount snapped and the engine dropped to the road and got lodged under the car. Scrap yard took it for free...
The headlight/bumper design was very clever too because it has the outline of an older style headlight on the wing, which meant Rover could use the same design to facelift the 25 and 45
I’am Astonished (brilliant) well done Matt
WOW! I just jumped up and down when it started.......awesome 💪🏼 looking forward to more on it now 😁🍿
Absolutely brilliant! I’ve enjoyed the hole Mercedes saga. Love the channel keep up the good work 👍🏼
Thanks, will do!
Best cars ever mate... mine made it to 253,000 miles before the tin worm won the race... fantastically well built cars
Nice Video. Hope You succed in restoring it. Greetings from México 🇲🇽
I hope so too! and hello
Such a great moment when it started and ran so smooth! Let's keep this positive flow going.
Hurrah!
Hi Matt,what a awesome start to the video,it ran after those years, sounds nice too,maybe old fuel in the tank,with the accumulator it will be better.
nice!!! glad it started!
Cheers from Argentina!
Thanks!
Great stuff Matt! Looking forward to see the fixing up of this beauty.
Waiting on some new bits now, it might run properly soon!
my grandad owns one and its been sitting in a garage for 10 years or more, planning to fix it and drive it, do you have any recommendation on what to check?
also, its a manual.
The "economy" gauge (vacuum) should be to the far "left", this means you do not have sufficient vacuum registering at the intake manifold. Check for vacuum leaks, the car will run even better. Good luck!
Thanks I didnt know that! Im sure it will have leaks as it was vandalised and pipes cut
Great stuff, good £400 save 👍🏻
Mightily relieved!
If I remember correctly. Lh jetronic is very picky on fuel pressure. When engine first started it was so lean at first. If fuel pump is not replaced I would kick it with your feet or tap it with small hammer and then immediately start the engine. W124 does have fuel pressure build up when key is first turned on. I dont know about W123 about this. One time I had to start my volvo from the engine bay by turning the engine with the starter and pushing the metering plate by finger. Did not look what was wrong with it. I guess it was something to do with the control fuel pressures.
It has a new pump and filters so should have good pressure, the relay starts it pumping when the key is turned
"I don't know why it works now" - as a 13+ year owner of the same mercedes from 1998, I've uttered that exact phrase about a countless things on my car.
"check engine electronics" - lol, ok. Literally had this message pop up every day for over a year, then one day disappeared for a few months. Then arose, making up for lost time, these past couple of weeks. It could be fine tomorrow
The Kjet systems are very susceptible to incorrect fuel pressures and are vital that they are correct. Initially when it fired up it was very lean (hence the spit back through the metering flap). I would start by bridging the relay to the fuel pumps (intank lift pump and high pressure pump) and trying it. That would also rule out the accumulator also as all its designed to do is hold a constant fuel pressure for a extended period of time.
You can also test the injectors by bridging out the relay, removing all 4 injectors with the lines still connected and press down the metering flap. DO NOT press down the metering flap with the injectors still installed into the head and the fuel pump relay bridged. This will easily fill the cylinders with enough fuel to hydrolock it!
Excellent. I shared in your significant excitement a spirited 'Yesss!'.
Hurrah!
Wanna see that Merc hitting the road again. Great piece of automotive history.
Finally! Hopefully it may start to behave! Sad to hear about Andy. Rip. Maybe he is now residing in the Mercedes lol.
thats why i love old cars ...
Well done I could not wait I seen all videos now it started
Well done matt. Can't you try the breakers I think all the k tronic systems were the same bosch units at the back audis bmw mercs vws ford's. Have you checked the fuel pressure? You can drop some laughing gas down the plunger to rule out electrical problems, but I thought the compensator was like an expansion vessel and only kept pressure in the line. Ie when the fuel pump presurises the system it pushes the diaphram in the compensate on a spring and maintains fuel pressure on initial start up. I would check filter and pump first see what pressure you have a fuel distributer
I need to get a pressure meter
Excellent work! It runs!
Great happy for you that is a very very rare car you have there one that fixes itself sounded very sweet to
That was brilliant and very mysterious Matt. Nice to hear the Mercedes burst into life though. Now go and grab an ice-cream from that van. You deserve it.
Maybe the old Merc was fed up with being stuck under lockdown, so it decided to put a bit of effort into running.
Joking apart, that sounds like quite a happy motor. Can't wait to see it being driven.
Im amazed how good it sounded!
I don't think the fuel accumulator is the problem with the intermittent starting. I think the mixture adjustment is off. I think it's running too lean and once the cold start enrichment phase goes off it's not getting enough fuel. It may need a turn "In" of the screw on the air flap beside the fuel metering unit. There is also a good chance of a vacuum leak somewhere considering the age of the rubber parts on the injection system. Check the hoses which go to and from the idle air valve and also the boot under the air metering unit.
I live by that methodology. If it breaks, leave it until it fixes itself. Works everytime.
It does! Boring UA-cam videos but a great repair strategy
Those engines when right are beasts tho, that thing is easily capable of a million miles
Brilliant Happy for you
Another great car in your hands to be resuscitated! You look thrilled, well done 👍
After your Rover cabrio issues, it's time you had a bit of good luck !
Wonder if it was wet/damp and it’s dried up or water in fuel ? Odd scenario, but hey at least it works sort of... or an iffy relay?
Love the W123 series ❤️❤️
Thought you were going to say, short video today because I'm off for an ice cream, that's what I'd have done 😂
Amazing stuff , onwards and upwards.
Hi! I'm trying to get my old Benz fixed just like you are with yours, I've changed already many parts and managed to get it moving, but it's still very hard to get it turned on when it's cold. I'm thinking one problem might be the fuel tank being very rusty and the fuel tank's screen being badly clogged up. I've read it's a common problem on older Benzs which have been sitting for a long without ever being driven. I still have not changed the fuel pressure accumulator, the one beside the fuel pump and fuel filter. What do you think about it?
So happy for you Matt! Amazing how it started and your reaction was priceless 😄 Great video mate 👍
haha that was genuine surprise!