Care and use of Kenmore Ultra-Stitch 12 Sewing Machine
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- I tried to use some basic video editing to enhance the audio a little bit, as well as cut a few spots that were redundant, and to add in the actual names for the feet, as I was not aware of what they were called at the time.
I hope this is a little bit better, and that those of you out there get some use out of the information and visuals of how and where to oil your machine, as well as general info on how to thread the machine.
The original video was made to help someone on the @ThreadBanger forums back when that was still active.
Also, don't be shy on giving the crew at Threadbanger some love. They've been on the internet showing DIY projects for well over a decade and are still going strong! Rob also recently opened an art gallery, which is really cool!
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This is amazing, thank you for sharing! I just bought one of these off Facebook marketplace today for $45. This is exactly the kind of info I'll need for future reference. 😊
Glad the reference is helping! Just be sure to give the machine a good oiling and check for any missing parts before starting to use it. If I remember correctly, it takes a standard bobbin and bobbin casing. Don't try to use any Class 66 or industrial machine bobbins with them as they're the wrong shape/wrong size
Thank you very much for sharing. I was given an old Singer Kenmore 148-200 model about 20 years ago. I believe it was made in the 60's. Plan to learn how to sew and repair some deer hunting clothes, sleeping bags, and reinforce some old work jeans.
nice! Glad to help and I hope your sewing goes well!
I inherited this excat one. Im not sure what I'm doing wrong so im watching this. This is so helpful omfg thank you so much
nice! One thing to note that my repair person said is that the top tension gauge can go over time, so if it continually jams, or jams to the point where you can't unstick it, it may need replacing.
Excellent video and tips!!! Thank you 💖🦋
Thank you for your kind comment!
Two things; first. You really SHOULD oil a sewing machine motor.
These Kenmore motors have a woolen wick surrounding the shaft bearings. Right at the base of the vent openings, right next to the shaft. One drop of oil on each side of the motor, at minimum once a year, but recommended every 6 months if you' are using the machine regularly. All vintage motors need lubrication at the shafts. Most newer motors, even more so. One drop, ONLY at the bottom of the vent next to the shaft. You should see something felt or wool like inside. That's where you put the drop on this style of motor. Some older motors have a hole with a reddish dot above or on it. That would be your oiling point for that type of machine.
The other thing; and this one is important. These old Kenmore machines almost always came with carbon disc resistor style pedals. Unless you have a pedal that says clearly that it is electronic, assume the pedal is carbon disc. This type of pedal can burn your home down if you're not careful. Even if you have shut your machine down, this pedal can be a hazard; especially if your machine's wiring isn't properly set up.
Best practice: put your machine on a power bar, and click it off when you are finished, along with turning your machine off. If you don't have a power bar, simply unplug it. Carbon disc pedals have an electric equivalent to a BBQ briquet inside of a chamber where the discs regulate a machine's power via your foot or knee control's pressure.
Over time, the carbon discs, rubbing together for years, can and will create a lot of carbon dust inside that chamber. With you sewing on a machine, especially at slow speeds, you will feel the pedal get warm, sometimes even hot. Well, that heat is generated from the carbon chamber, and radiated out of the ceramic block the discs are housed inside of. Think old fashioned knob and tube wiring...ceramic is an insulator, but it is also a heat source. Well, if your machine is wired incorrectly, and the pedal has never been taken apart and properly cleaned and maintained, , that dust is capable of igniting. It'll take the wiring out in the process, and once flame has its fuel source (a carpet perhaps), well, you see where this is headed.
I thought it important to add that as many people are not aware of the potential danger of these old machine pedals (and even the new ones. Better to go with an electronic pedal, or in the very least, clean out and maintain your own (there are videos on UA-cam that instruct you how to do it, it's a messy job but rather simple to do) carbon disc resistor style pedal. The two things that come from that is that your pedal will work a whole lot more efficiently, and you've significantly reduced the risk of a potential fire by taking care of the carbon dust by cleaning out the chamber as well as cleaning up the loose carbon on the individual discs.
Love these old Kenmore machines. I'm going to feature your video in my Facebook group, "Mr Kenmore's Neighborhood" as it shows the folks how to maintain this style of machine, as well as shows them the black plastic mold injected camstack, and demonstrates how it is not a load bearing assembly, and why this style of Kenmore hybrid machine is a very good choice for sewing (the actual gears in the gearbox below are solid steel parts and the camstack isn't made of nylon, which is the reason so many of these machines continue to soldier on 40 plus years after they were purchased.
Thank you for your video. I really appreciate you attempting to clear it up for modern consumption. I think you did a bang-up job.
Thank you for the extra details as I didn't know about half of what you advised. I'm sure my other viewers will find it very helpful! I don't own this machine anymore, but the information is still very valuable. (especially for the person I gave the machine to, which I hope they're still using happily)
@@kieraoona I once owned a Kenmore 10. It was my very first "almost" all metal Kennie. Machine was very much like this model, except it had the stretch reverse stitch and standard stitch via dial modifier (just like the more expensive Kenmore machines of this era). That machine was one of the very best machines I'd ever owned. When I started buying into the more feature rich Kenmore machines, I sent this one to a person in Saskatchewan who wanted a good Kenmore but could not find one as she was in a pretty rural area. Some days, I miss that machine and almost regret giving it away. Anyhoo, they're fantastic little machines, solid, dependable and well worth owning for those that need a good, basic machine to work with. Loved the video, and appreciate your response. Sew on happily!!
Questions: What type of oil? and, Where/what is the 'shaft' and vents you are talking about. I have this same machine. Thanks for the info.
@@spirit3soul Regular cheap and cheerful sewing machine oil, and it depends on your machine motor. Some have a little red dog painted on a tiny hole on either end of the motor (mostly found on motors from the 1940's on up to the late 1960's). That would be your oiling point on that style of motor. On a more modern motor (late 60's to present) you will see vents on both ends of the motor (most of the time). At the bottom of these vents, right next to the motor shaft rod that protrudes out one end of the motor and connects to the machine's belt via the motor cog; you will, if you look closely, see a wooly or felt-like substance that is wedged into the vent(s). That is the motor wick. That is where you deposit your one drop of oil. It's imperative you don't over-oil or spill the machine oil inside of the motor. Just a drop on that wick. The rear wick is located in exactly the same spot, only you won't see the motor shaft on this end as it's almost always riding on an internal bearing. The oil is there to keep the bearing lubricated, and allows the motor to run freely without added friction. I strongly recommend to anyone reading this to have your motor serviced every 7 to 10 years. Don't replace the motor; modern motors are almost always poor quality alternatives to these older motors. The motor should be taken apart (if you feel capable, by you, if not, by a service professional), the stator, commutator and copper windings all cleaned up, with the commutator polished until it's a gleaming coppery shine devoid of carbon dust from the brushes. Copper windings sprayed down with electronic cleaner (not soaked in water or scrubbed, just sprayed) to clean off the dust, the motor shaft on both ends given a good cleaning and light oiling (one drop to it, one drop to the wicks once you have cleaned out the motor can and the motor shaft bearing on either end of the motor can. You should also clean up the inner channel of the stator (the part with the commutator and copper windings which rotate inside of the stator tunnel), then the rotor as well. Inspect the wiring carefully, as well as the brushes. If the motor worked before you cracked open the can, so long as you're aware of the motor board the wiring is soldered onto, it should still be working (a LOT more efficiently than it did before you cleaned out all the old gunk inside). The brushes can be cleaned off with 90% isopropryl alcohol and a q tip once you perform the following. Inspect the brushes. If they're a decent length and you don't see any chunks missing on them, take a bit of very fine grit sand paper and sand the brushes flat (the part that will connect with the commutator), then clean and return to the copper/brass chambers they were loaded into, spring in first, part you just sanded in last; so they are pointing towards the commutator and are ready to make contact once it is installed. These motor boards the wiring is attached to will sometimes have a circuit called a capacitor attached to it. This is important. Do not touch it with your hands. A LOT of voltage is stored inside one of these, and unless you know how to safely drain the residual power inside of them safely, its simply a good idea not to touch the wires coming out of each end of the cylinder. Cylinder itself won't hurt you, and the wiring won't "accidentally" bump into you. You'd have to want to touch the contacts in order to get a potential jolt. Reassembling the can is a tricky affair the first time you do it. There are UA-cam videos showing you how to refurbish different styles of motors as well as carbon resistor sewing machine pedals. Sew Save Me is a great source for motor maintenance, and different sources for pedal maintenance. Hope this helps.
@@shopwornbear1171 Wow! THANK YOU very much for the details (for a non motorized mind ; )).
Can you tell me the difference between this a new plastic sewing machine like heavy duty singer please I want make sure if I buy it 🥺
The older machines tend to have more metal parts, and often a metal or partial metal body, however due to wear and tear on older machines, if you don't know how to maintain them or if they need a tune up, you won't know for sure unless it had been serviced before buying it as to how well it runs.
Having used older model machines most of my life, I know what to look for before buying for the most part.
With that said, it's not a matter of new vs old, its more for what your intended use is over long periods of time. I highly recommend if you are a beginner, do not get a "digital" machine. (machines with digital functions over mechanical ones)
As a point of reference, I currently have a Singer 99k circa 1937, and a Singer Esteem 2, Circa...2017-ish.
If you aren't sure, go with a newer machine first, then once you're more comfortable with knowing how to sew, look into vintage, as older machines can also have....quirks that you may not be accustomed to
hello if you still have this beautiful sewing machine please kindly film how to operate the sewing machine electric foot pedal how its used to sew please ok?thank you very much 😊
It's a very standard foot pedal, and sewing machines work the same way as a car for the most part. Step on the foot pedal to go faster
I'll go give Leia som3 catnip
I'm sure they'd enjoy some catnip :)
@@kieraoona yep and we had some salmon. Happy kitty cat :3
@@fyrecraftedgaming oh nice! Also, kind of envious of the salmon....now I want salmon lol